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Portugal
Nossa Senhora de Fátima

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    • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
      1
      Hari 42

      Some more seamless PTing

      3 Mei, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Without the discipline and exertion of the Camino, baggins and I are both getting a bit heavier, but it's fine because I've only picked the two hilliest cities on planet earth in Porto and Lisbon. Today it was time to transfer twixt them, via a walk, two metro routes, a four hour bus, a walk, one metro route, and a walk. I don't have a sim card you'll recall, so this was all done offline and done very well I MIGHT ADD. I also didn't feel sick on the bus despite taking the extraordinary risk of eating a pastel de nata and a pizza roll that weighed, conservatively, 600g on it.

      The bus station I chose in Lisbon (there are multiple, I bet that's stuffed people up) turns out to be next to the ZOO so that was tempting but I had to tell Little Lexie no for the first time - we had a bit more faff to go to get to the hostel and we had to ration the puff. This was wise because once we'd checked in it was pretty much gone. I went to the supermarket, cooked dinner, read a bit of this Ken Follet that really isn't grabbing me, sadly, and went to bed. They can't all be Nat Geo worthy ok.      Baca lagi

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    • Laurie Reynolds19th year to Lisbon!
      1
      Hari 10

      Rainy days and classes

      17 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      It’s hard to dig very deep in a two week class, especially when the students for the most part have no idea about any aspect of the US legal system. But it is always a lot of fun and I always try to get them thinking. There are about 30 students in the class, half Portuguese, and half participating on the EU Erasmus exchange, from all over the EU. It’s a wonderful thing to see all the interaction. Hopefully it will lead to greater understanding.

      I have to admit that most of the fun these days has been in the classroom and not outside, since it’s been gray and rainy and drizzly and raining. But I have very much enjoyed walking around the neighborhood and looking at it through my amateurish urban planning eye.

      Bottom line — I would give the planning department of Lisbon an F minus in what they have done to this neighborhood, Rego. It’s an old area, but it is now blocked on all sides – one side by the railroad, two sides by elevated four lane roads, and one side with dead end streets leading to a hilltop. With no way out.

      In terms of buildings, there are three types— very old small houses, some maintained, some in ruins. Then there are the 60-70s three story blocky apartment buildings. And then there are the recent shiny glass buildings that tower over everything else. The neighborhood has some of the old-timey market stands and shops that fix everything. I talked to some residents who told me there is a very active neighborhood association fighting for some attention. But they say the owners of the glitzy fancy buildings get all the attention.      Baca lagi

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    • Laurie Reynolds19th year to Lisbon!
      Hari 7

      Back in Lisbon

      14 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      I had toyed with the idea of exploring the Arribes del Duero on our way to Lisbon, so our first stop after leaving Zamora was Fermoselle. It’s a slightly touristy town on the Duero and on the border with Portugal. A chat with the very helpful guy in the tourist office convinced me that to go to any of the best stops along the river would take us many hours and make for a very long day. So we decided to grind it out and just drive to Lisbon. I resisted the urge to stop in Ciudad Rodrigo, where I had walked on my 2022Torres, because with the holiday weekend it would be packed.

      For 18 years, we’ve stayed in the Marriott, right next to the Católica where I teach. The university has not renewed its Marriott agreement, so this year we’re in some other big nondescript hotel, but it’s in a neighborhoodJoe doesn’t know at all. Could be interesting. Though I didn’t think it was possible, this neighborhood seems to have even fewer restaurant choices than the Marriott. But we found a good paper tablecloth home cooked food place. Very friendly and good desserts for Joe.

      Tomorrow will be a “get oriented” and “get ready to teach” day. I realized that I didn’t bring any shoes to wear to class, so it’s either Chacos or Altras. I am sure that I will not be much of a fashion statement. But then I never have been.

      Oh and did I say the hotel’s elliptical is on the fritz?      Baca lagi

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    • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2022
      Hari 10

      Moving into Work Mode

      5 November 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      We had 300 kms to drive and all day to do it. So we had a big and very yummy breakfast in the hotel and then got confounded by Google maps, which must not have been up to date on all the horrendous construction in Porto. We finally made it out of the city, only to be messed up again by intersecting super-highways and weirdly placed toll booths.

      But finally we were on the right highway heading in the right direction. I gave Joe several choices of places to stop en route, and he chose Conimbriga, a Roman city founded in the 2nd C BC. Things were great there till the 3rd C AD, when a wall was built to stop the invading Germanic tribes. But the city fell in the 5th C. What remains are some really nice mosaics, ruined baths, a forum with a few columns standing, and a big part of the wall. What’s especially nice about this site is that it’s totally out in the countryside, so you can really get a sense of the layout and the expanse of the city.

      Now here we are in Lisbon, in the same old same old hotel. Two of the doormen recognized us —not surprising since they have been working here for 18 years, which is as long as we’ve been coming!      Baca lagi

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    • Laurie Reynolds19th year to Lisbon!
      1
      Hari 14

      MAAT

      21 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      That stands for Museu de Arte, Arquitectura e Tecnología. We met an old friend from Champaign there. She has been living in the Lisbon area for 4 years but it was only last year that we reconnected. There was a special exhibition of work by Joana Vasconcelos.. She is a Portuguese artist who has won a lot of acclaim for her work. It’s hard to describe, so I’ll let the pictures do the job. Beautiful, whimsical, sparkly, it was a lot of fun. She does with fabric what Chihuly does with glass.

      The MAAT is actually two buildings. One is the old coal-powered original electric plant of Lisbon, with all of the machinery still completely in tact. Adjacent to it is a modern white concrete building with curvy lines, and great views from the top. We went through both buildings, and though the electric power plant had tons of explanatory panels, I could not even begin to comprehend how electricity was produced in that building. Some of the machinery was so beautifully ornate that it seemed to be a continuation of the art exhibit.

      The museum is right on the river, and there is a great walk/bike path that goes along for miles. It’s a wonderful amenity for city dwellers, and it was really getting a ton of use. After a very long lunch, we said goodbye and made plans for next year’s visit. Maybe.      Baca lagi

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    • Laurie Reynolds19th year to Lisbon!
      221
      Hari 15

      Rainy day at the palace

      22 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      About 8 Km outside of Lisbon, the Queluz Palace is “Portugal’s Versailles,” much as La Granja is Spain’s. None of the crowds and not as excessively ornate, with gorgeous gardens that we enjoyed when the rain dropped to a drizzle. There’s also a long tiled canal where the royal family used to go boating. The castle was built in the 18C and is full-on baroque/rococo, just a little shabbier than other similar palaces.

      There were several Brazilians visiting, and they were very interested to read about where the first Emperor of Brazil, Pedro of Braganca, had come from. In a surprise move, this king declared Brazil’s independence from Portugal, which seems a little counter-intuitive. He then abdicated, making his son the new emperor, and returned to Portugal, where he died in the same Queluz palace room where he was born. As you. might guess, he wasn’t too popular in the circles of those who were in favor of Portugal’s colonial empire.

      After a couple of hours there, we went across to the pousada where there is a small bar for those with a sweet tooth and a coffee craving. We stayed in the pousada many years ago, but I had forgotten that it was once a part of the palace complex, the place where the army and some high ranking palace staff lived. It is, like the palace itself, a little bit of a faded lady, but the building is historic and the decor is consistent with the style of Queluz. We had contemplated going on to Sintra, which is just a few more kms along the highway, but the weather refused to cooperate, so we headed back to the hotel, where fitness center and naptime await, one for each of us.      Baca lagi

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    • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2022
      Hari 18

      Persistence and Resistance

      13 November 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      First, the persistence. Joe kept insisting he was sure where he left his glasses, so I decided the best option was to go take a look. It would have been a great story! No luck, though the woman in the park’s café told me she had a huge ring of keys, including two car keys, that someone lost yesterday. So I think we got off lucky, just losing glasses.

      From there we decided to go to the Aljube, a former political prison during the Salazar dictatorship. It has been turned into the Museum of the Resistance. We had been there ten years ago when it first opened, and it was just as chilling as before. So many displays of inhumanity. The last rooms of the permanent exhibition end with an upbeat recounting of the Carnation Revolution — deposing a dictatorship without firing a shot. I thought the museum struck the right tone — not too pollyanish but clear in its message that there was a good side and a bad side.

      I found a public elevator I had never seen before — takes you straight down into the middle of the Alfama, the old moorish neighborhood below the castle walls. We hadn’t been down there because there are just too many uneven surfaces, ups and downs, nooks and crannies. But Joe was game, so dowon we went. We did wind up doing a fair amount of up and down through tiny narrow passageways. It is becoming quite the trendy area — lots of Air BnBs, restaurants, souvenir shops, etc, but there are still real people living there, all of whom seem to do their wash on Sunday and hang it outside.

      Our plan was to walk down to the center and catch a cab back to the hotel. But there was no traffic going through the streets. I thought surely there must be some huge political demonstration going on, but after walking a mile or so up from the center towards our hotel, we saw that it was an Antique Car Association gathering that had blocked off the main drag in town and essentially stopped traffic going into the historic core. The cops we asked about it were not big fans, but some of these cars were real gems.

      Finally, about two hours later and three more miles walked than hoped for, we found a cab and made it back to the hotel. Teaching starts up tomorrow bright and early.      Baca lagi

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    • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2022
      1
      Hari 13

      Our favorite pizzeria

      8 November 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Two days of teaching, which I am enjoying immensely, and a lot of rain. Today at about 3 pm, the skies cleared, and we hopped in an Uber (there were no cabs outside the hotel, so we had no choice) and headed for the historic center. We walked and walked, feeling quite at home and happy to be here. Down Avenida da Liberdade, through Rossio, down to the river, and over to Casanova, our favorite pizzeria in Lisbon. It’s kind of hidden, across from the Santa Apolonia train station, right on the river.

      We have been to several of our favorite places — Carvoeiro da Palma for grilled fish and fresh mango; Treco Lareco, a hole in the wall place with good home cooking but best of all for Joe, mango mousse; and tonight Casanova, the pizzeria with yummy pana cotta. If you are sensing a sweet tooth trail, you would be right, but it’s not mine!

      The Christmas lights are all in place, and I’m hoping we will get a chance to see them lit up. I love Lisbon!      Baca lagi

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    • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2022
      Hari 17

      Tram museum and some wandering

      12 November 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      The Tram museum is not a 5* attraction but it’s really interesting. It’s housed in the actual huge Carris maintenance and garage facility. You can see some of the original cars (and actually get a ride on one of the very first electric trams from the early 1900s), but it also gives a very good history of the transformation of the company. From a few horse drawn wagon type trams (called “americanos,” perhaps because one of the two owners was from Brazil), and then the laying of rails throughout the city, lots of fascinating pictures. It was also really interesting to see how different the ethos of the company was back then. There was a barbershop on the premises and all employees were required to be well shaved and coiffed. All men in dress shirt and ties.

      Our plan was to visit the Arte Antica museum next, but when we got there they told us that the Hieronymus Bosch painting (which is really the stand out of the European collection) was on loan, and that the entire floor of Portuguese painting (which has some medieval work that I like) was about to close for a two hours lunch break. So we went to Plan B, which involved walking around through the fancy embassy neighborhood and then having lunch in our favorite Lisbon park, Estrela. We were then able to get on the tram 28 for a ride across town to some of the great Miradouros over the Alfama and the Tagus river.

      Joe lost his glasses, which is quite the bummer. But he is having some laser glaucoma treatment when we get home so he may need new glasses anyway. Nothing to be done about it for the time being.

      Still waiting for some election results!      Baca lagi

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    • Laurie Reynolds19th year to Lisbon!
      2
      Hari 17

      Friends

      24 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Still raining, but the sunshine comes from the friends. We’ve been lucky to see many of our good Lisbon friends this year. Eugenia, Peggy, Nick, Nuno, Maria João, Rui, Henrique, Maria Inês, Luis.

      I am so glad that we didn’t head off from Lisbon for what turned out to be a rainy weekend, but rather stayed here to enjoy our amigos. I look back on all these many years coming to teach in Lisbon with a lot of wonderful memories, and many of those memories come from our friends.

      One more class, one more rainy day in Lisbon tomorrow.      Baca lagi

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    Nossa Senhora de Fátima, Nossa Senhora de Fatima

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