• RickSails

WalkThroughWalesOnCambrianWay

A walk from Cardiff Castle through the length of Wales over the highest peaks to Conwy Castle. Leia mais
  • Along Llyn Trawsfynydd

    25 de agosto de 2019, País de Gales ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Sunday: Walked north along lakeside road where I made a navigational error missing left fork along foot / cycle path around lake. After back tracking discovered path was well made of tarmac alternating with sections of compacted chippings. Passed a few parties walking and cycling it.Leia mais

  • Llyn Trawsfynydd dam

    25 de agosto de 2019, País de Gales ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Sunday: Over Llyn Trawsfynydd dam. Commisioned in 1920s for a hydroelectric power station in Maentwrog. Height raised in 1960s for Nuclear power station. Undergoing decommission since 1992, was it worth it? Decommisioning expected to take a century. Weather changed here to cloudy. I was now walking under the cloud caused by the temperature inversion that I had been walking above / alongside all day. Next section was only 3 miles but through forest and farmland, in which I seem to make most of my navigational errors, so entered with trepidation.Leia mais

  • End of day 33 Llechrwd Riverside camp

    25 de agosto de 2019, País de Gales ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Sunday: From Llyn Trawsfynydd dam I walked through forest, farmland and minor roads to Maentwrog. Successfully booked in for supper at the Grapes Inn. The church next door had no service today, pity as I was in good time for the normal 6.30. Then walked a mile further East to Llechrwd Riverside campsite. Initially dismayed to read sign 'full for bank holiday weekend unless you have booked' but host Viv had no problem fitting me in. Noticed later it read '...unless you are a hiker with no transport' which explained why I was allowed in.

    Pitched on a slightly elevated level terrace beside a picnic bench. As I have often found in the past, picnic benches are useful for laying out kit for packing and unpacking, and for hanging clothes from to dry. I made full use of this one.

    After a shower, change into clean clothes and out of my boots into my decks I walked the mile west back to The Grapes Inn, Maentwrog. Had a splendid couple of Ciders, Welsh Rarebit and the biggest Lamb Shank I have ever seen. I was beaten by the Chef so too full for pudding. Walked back to camp along the road in the pitch dark, glad of my Petzl head torch which was excellent as ever.
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  • Back home to Cardiff

    26 de agosto de 2019, País de Gales ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Monday: My return trip home started with a 30 minute walk west to a bus stop beside The Oakeley Arms Hotel, Maentwrog. Weather was still glourious.

    On the way to the bus stop I photographed Moelwyn Bach to the north. When I resume my walk through Wales on the Cambrian Way I will pass east of this mountain on my way to next waypoint - Cnicht. I had an outline plan to ascend it then descend to Beddgellet in a day. Looking at it this morning I can see this is too ambitious. When I restart I will allow a day to ascend to its foot where there is a lake. Then a second day for final ascent and descent to Beddgellet.

    I discovered The Oakeley Arms Hotel to be a particularly smart establishment. I was in good time for my bus so ordered Tea with a bacon and egg roll. I thought £8 was a little steep until it arrived. They first delivered a pot of Tea with a scrumptious fairy cake. The bacon roll that followed was an Italianesque wonderful rectangular roll with 2 eggs and bacon. Well worth £8.

    Bus to Machynlleth, train to Newtown (it was August bank holiday so Sunday timetable meant no bus), then bus to Cardiff all went uneventfully. I was home 5pm with plenty of time to unpack and start laundry ready for work the next day. But my legs ached!
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  • Start of day 34

    17 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Excellent food and cider in The Grapes Hotel, Maentwrog last night. Since 2019 the verges had been allowed to grow too long to walk on them so I walked the mile there and back on the road, stepping into the long grass as vehicles drove by.

    Retired to bed 21:00 last night so up super early at 05:30. Sun shiny brightly which compensated for the inevitably cool morning. Tent was dry on the outside, but literally dripping wet on the inside, presumably caused by my perspiration. Something my brother Martin warned me ruined his tent he had left pitched in a Greek Orchard while he went off to spend some weeks in Egypt some years ago.

    Showers in the campsite were excellent for keeping clothes dry. They were so long clothes were well away from the shower head. Made a nice change from many sites were one has to carefully arrange clothes to prevent them getting wet.

    Walked mile west today to The Oakeley Arms for breakfast, packed lunch and they kindly fill my flask with milk for my breakfast tomorrow when I will be wild camping.

    The Oakeley Arms Hotel
    Tan Y Bwlch, Maentwrog, Blaenau Ffestiniog, Gwynedd LL41 3YU
    (01766) 590277
    https://oakeleyarms.co.uk/
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  • Day 34 noon update

    17 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Completed first couple of miles of gentle ascent. Much of it through woodland, then following the line of the Ffestiniog narrow gauge railway. Now at Tanygrisiau Reservoir which is the lower of two that form a pumped storage hydroelectric system. My next section is up a quite steep part of the mountain to the upper reservoir Llyn Stwlan.

    Weather glorious all morning with an increasing breeze. As forecast it is beginning to cloud over now and the breeze is increasing.
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  • Ffestiniog narrow gauge railway

    17 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Part of the walk took me along track of Ffestiniog narrow gauge railway then though Dduallt station. Pictures are from this.

  • End of day 34

    17 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Cloud increasing thickened through the early afternoon until visibility was down to 50 yards. Llyn Stwlan dam, that has been such a dominant feature when I recced this section in April, I never saw, it was completely obscured. I also could not find the sheltered wild camping spot I had identified in April despite walking back and forth in front of the dam many times. Wind was strong by this time making my search for a sheltered spot essential. Eventually gave up and instead followed a path gentling rising west around the lake thinking the mountain would at least shelter me from the SW wind. The path may have been the Cambrian Way but with such poor visibility I was unsure. As my search for a level, sheltered, grassy spot seem fruitless I began considering other possibilities - should I return to last night’s campsite (a long way), book in at the Oakeley Hotel (a long way and expensive), return down the mountain side to camp beside the railway track (closer but exposed to the wind). Then I spotted some squares on the map - perhaps sheep folds? - and headed for these. They turned out to be slate workers barracks. Hurrah I thought as I approached, I can camp inside and be sheltered from the wind. Unfortunately much of the slate used to build them had fallen inside making them uninhabitable. But there was enough level ground outside to pitch and the wind was not as strong, either because it was sheltered by the mountain side to the west or perhaps because the wind had abated. Also, the barrack walls worked well as a table, for sitting on, standing rucksack on and drying my towel so my prayers were answered. It began to rain shortly after I finished pitching so I retired for the day at 6pm!Leia mais

  • Start of day 35

    18 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    I can see Stwlan dam! Woke 05:15 to Cloud base 100-200’ above me so I could see below my pitch all the way to Blaenau Ffestiniog. Yesterday’s forecast for today was rain in late afternoon. Updated this morning, it has improved to no rain and sunny intervals. I am cheered by this because I was crestfallen at the thought of pitching my wild camp in the rain this afternoon. Although weather forecast has improved, temperature is forecast below 10C. And forecast to feel as cold as 2C … in June!

    No one else around as usual, not even maintenance staff working at the dam.
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  • Noon day 35

    18 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Walked 200’ up slate maker’s inclines to bwlch (col/saddle) above my pitch quite quickly. I had more energy than I expected. Breeze a lot stronger on the bwlch as I had my first glimpse of the sea. Then turned right/north for slow careful scramble up Craigysgafn. Passed some huge beautiful quarz rocks on the way up. From the top I could see my next objective, Moelwyn Mawr - checkpoint 30 on the Cambrian Way. The route look straight forward enough, gentle descent from Craigysgafn to another bwlch, then up a long grass slope to top of Moelwyn Mawr. ‘Moel’ means a rounded top hill so they are rarely challenging. On top the descents all looked scarily vertical. But as I have often found when I have initially been incredulous about a drop, carefully following the map there was an easy route down off to the east of the vertical faces I could see from the top. I met my first walker of the day on the way down. A local from Ffestiniog doing a 8 mile circuit of the hills.

    3/4 mile further on I passed through extensive abandoned slate workings. There were spoil heaps, dramways, barracks, sheds and abandoned machinery. Passed five more parties of people in the late morning and early afternoon.
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  • End of day 35

    18 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    From the old slate workings a steady ascent for a mile, passing the left / south west turn towards Cnicht (my check point for tomorrow), then gentle soggy downhill 300 yards to Llyn Yr Adar (lake bird?), my wild camp for the night.

    There is a saying for wild campers, arrive late, leave early, leave no trace. I arrived 13:30 so certainly not late. Weather was overcast with sunny intervals and a gentle, occasionally strong, breeze. Perfect for drying out the tent I had to pack wet this morning. Ground was soft enough for me to push pegs in all the way. There was a short period of light rain 3-4 but this didn’t stop the tent drying. Around the lake was mostly boggy but I found a dry, level, grassy place to pitch on the north east side of the lake near a small hillock. I used rocks to weigh down everything else that needed drying - bags, towel etc.

    While tent was drying I walked around the north west lake shore to see if I could get a signal
    to send these updates, but no joy. This side was also boggy marsh where I found nowhere better to pitch than where I had. A Red Kite flew in and perched on some rocks close to the tent - exciting! The lake has a central island with resting Geese that occasionally swim around the lake for my entertainment.

    Got my Gaming Gaz single burner stove out for the first time this trip. Lots of reviewers suggest lighter weight stoves, but I have got used to its simplicity and convenience so am happy to carry a little extra weight. For the first time I used a metal tripod stand that clamps around the cylinder. I bought it a couple of years ago. It was a great success for keeping the stove level. I had Beef and potato hot pot and my first cup of tea this trip.

    Forecast is for it to be cold overnight. Feeling as low as 1C in the small hours. Right now the breeze has stopped and sun is hazy so perfect for writing this blog … that will probably be sent tomorrow when I get a good signal. Grass is dry enough to exchange my boots for deck shoes while I stooge around the pitch.

    Two scrambler bikes have just ridden past, more excitement. Some walkers object but I don’t find it a problem especially if it gets the riders off their PlayStations. Perhaps if there were lots I might. They have ridden towards Cnicht and been there some minutes, which is strange because I thought Cnicht was a steep climb. I must consult the map.

    A longer walk for me tomorrow. Only one ascent 360’/110m to Cnicht a mile and a half away, then downhill all the way into Beddgelert where I have booked a holiday home for 2 nights.

    Retiring to bed 19:30 today, the good weather is keeping me up late!
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  • Start of day 36

    19 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    It was cold in the night as forecast. My feet never quite warmed up. The few times I woke during the night it was never dark enough to not see the, admittedly white, inside of the tent. I noticed the same last night. Curious to why if anyone has an explanation.

    Woke quite late for me at 05:50. Dry morning with low cloud and cold. Breakfast of porridge and tea. Left pitch 08:45 for my next check point, Cnicht.
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  • Cnicht check point 31

    19 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    No trig point but a lots of rocks. Fairly easy walk to Cnicht from east side, it is much steeper on the west side I will have to negotiate next. Cloud still low, no sun and blowing strong and cold from the North so photographs were challenging.Leia mais

  • Desent from Cnicht

    19 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I knew descending Cnicht to the west was going to be challenging and so it proved. I unwisely took the route down to the right/south west which was turned out to be a tricky rock face as seen in the photographs. I met my first follow walker/climber on this section. The dramatic difference between the two routes down was not evident from above. I later read in the Tony Drake’s guidebook to the Cambrian Way that the route to the left/south east was recommended.

    Once off Cnicht the route down continued to be straightforward alternating between grassy desent interspersed with the occasional rocky section of a few feet. I passed about 10 parties on this section, quite a number were school children doing Duke of Edinburgh (they appeared to be sixth formers) and some scousers (they are common in north Wales!).
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  • Pont Aberglaslyn check point 32A

    19 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Having descended from Cnicht the next section began with a mile of road walking, sadly with much ascent (I was getting tired by now after 5 hours of walking). The road eventually lead into village of Nantmor which had a station for the Welsh Highland narrow gauge railway. The sun had been hot for a couple of hours so I stopped on a station bench to turn zip off trousers into shorts, top up my front water bottle and hoped to see a railway timetable. I am thinking I might spend a rest day on the railway towards end of my holiday.

    A few hundreds yards further I arrived at Aberglaslyn for a walk through some woods ending at Pont Aberglaslyn (Aberglaslyn bridge). A rather splendid road bridge over the Afon Glaslyn.

    From here the Cambrian Way followed the Afon Glaslyn (river Glaslyn) upstream on the formerly named ‘Fishermans path’ now a section of the Snowdonia Slate Trail. I was completely awed by this fabulous trail and unprepared for my slow progress on it. It began with steps over a few rocks changing to embankments shored up by trees, bridges, huge rocks with steps bolted into them and hand holds. All the while the height varying between a few feet to 40’/ 12m above the river. If you are ever in this part of the world I strongly recommend this trail which was certainly a highlight of the day for me.
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  • End of day 36

    19 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After a mile the Afon Glaslyn trail turned in to a smooth surface suitable for wheelchairs and pushchairs. Ultimately entering Beddgelert through a splendid gate. I walked over a footbridge, and passed some tourist shops. A right turn took me to m Glanafon flat and across the road in Erw Fair to the owner for the keys. After a briefing on which keys to use I was in. I took my boots off in the hall because the stairs were carpeted then up into a splendid one bedroom flat. A lounge/kitchen/diner to the front, a double bedroom to the back with an en-suite. Lots of mod cons, and towels, showed gel, shampoo and conditioner (which I need obviously … not!). Kitchenette had tea, coffee and sugar. I was impressed. The building is divided into a ground floor shop, first floors flats 1 and 2 and second floor flat 3.

    After hanging up damp gear and getting my glad rags on I walked literally over the road to the Tanronnen Inn for cider and supper. They only served food 18:30 to 19:30 which I thought was quite sensible to save customers stringing food orders out for the whole evening. A great end to a splendid day. Strangely, all clients were talking quietly as if they were being respectful to others as their parents told them they should. Unusual to not have a few loud people in a pub. It sounds ideal but I found it quite eerie.

    Snowdon tomorrow.
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  • Start of day 37

    20 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Oh the luxury of a home! Slept like a log in the superbly appointed flat 1. Furnishings had been well chosen to work splendidly in the small space. There were plenty of hooks on doors, many double electric sockets, a drying rack and shampoo, hand soap & towels provided. I was wildly optimistic to think that the laundry I washed in the basin would be dry by this morning, as a result I have no dry outer socks. Fortunately the ground floor of this building has an outdoor shop so I am hoping they can supply.

    10 mile walk today over Snowdon. 3.2 along Afon Glaslyn river to the start point at Pont Bethinia, 3.9 to top of Snowdon, and 3.3 to Pen Y Pass to catch bus back to Beddgelert. Although this is much further than I usually walk, my rucksack is far lighter because I am just taking what I need for the day, leaving the rest in the Flat.
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  • Beddgelert to Pont Bethania

    20 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The Crib Goch outdoor shop did have some outer socks so off I set, newly shod. The A498 east out of Beddgelert passes north east of the first lake in the Gwynant valley Llyn Dinas (lake fort). The Cambrian Way is routed south of this lake on a quiet road (no cars passed me) then a lakeside path. The 3 and a bit miles on easy terrain took me 90 minutes because I was ambling, photographing and taking in the view. Well that’s my excuse anyway!Leia mais

  • Snowdon ascent check point 33

    20 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    From Pont Bethaina (Bethania bridge) began ascent proper of Snowdon. Took 4:30 and was hard going in the blazing Sun. There was an occasional cooling breeze, sometimes quite strong, that had me wondering whether to turn my shorts back into trousers but in the end it was shorts all day. Passed about 30 people descending which was demoralising to think they had already been up and were on their way back before I had even ascended. Also passed 3 chaps working for the National Trust rebuilding the path. I had often seen examples of their work but this was the first time I had seen work underway.

    Walk was very challenging during which I had doubts about my ability and felt like turning back. I had my sister-in-law Cressetta in my head saying “don’t forget to rest” which I hadn’t and wished I had! Over came this with the mantra “yield mountain yield” which eventually it did.
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  • End of day 37

    20 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    As one might expect the 3 and a bit miles descent to Pen-y-pass was far quicker than the ascent. I took 2:30. I choose the PYG track down because I remembered it as a more gradual descent than the Miners track but I was in error. They both start and end at the same place but the Miners track drops down steeply to pass beside lakes Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw. The PYG track I remembered as having a more gradual descent. It has, but also some ascent and a far rougher surface. Because I was rushing to catch 18:35 bus back to Beddgelert I would have been better taking the Miners track. I made the bus with 5 minutes to spare. I felt sorry for chaps who enquired of my driver when was the next bus for Llanberis to be told it had left a few minutes before. That was so close to being my situation.

    Passed lots of people today on Watkin path, South route and combined PYG/Miners tracks, but once they split I had the PYG path almost to myself only passing one party.

    I was in time for supper again at the Tonnerron Inn over the road from my Beddgelert Flat. The staff now treating me as a regular as I was on my second night.

    Packing tonight to catch early bus tomorrow back to Pen-y-Pass to start next section of walk over Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach.
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  • Start of day 38

    21 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    It’s another beautiful day. Today’s programme is
    1.8m/2.9km from Pen-Y-Pass north to Glyder Fawr (big Glyder)
    1m/1.6km from Glyder Fawr ENE to Glyder Fach (little Glyder)
    0.7m/1.1km from Glyder Fach east to Bwlch Casey Fraith
    1.8m/2.9km from Bwlch Casey Fraith NW to Ogwen passing the base of the famous Tryfan mountain reknown for being great for climbing.
    5.3m/9.5km in Total so a much easier half of yesterday’s distance, although with a full 15Kg rucksack.

    I will be staying the night in Idwal Cottage YHA hostel where they have a drying room which will be useful for my Boots. I am hoping they have a laundry because my attempt at laundering in the bathroom basin of my Flat has not been very successful and the laundry is still wet despite having been hung up for 36 hours.
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  • Glyder Fawr checkpoint 34

    21 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    08:58 S4 bus from Beddgelert delivered me to Pen-Y-Pass in time to start walking 09:20. Route start was immediately behind the Youth Hostel which felt off effectively walking through the Hostel garden. Route began as a gentle ascent over grass, then some short rock scrambles, then once onto the ridge proper it was grass again. Although only 1.8 miles it took me 3:25, but I was not in a hurry as had plenty of time. Weather was glourious for the whole ascent. Paragliders appeared on two occasions, I suspect each was awaiting the right wind direction and strength. There also a regular buzz of a helicopter. I had noticed the helicopter from the bus, it had a 30-40’ line hanging below. I initially was concerned a mountain rescue was under way, then as the trips were regular concluded they must be training. From my vantage point on the mountain I realised they were collecting builders bags of large stones and delivering them onto a section of Snowdon. I had seen hundreds of these bags on various hillside paths.

    Glyder Fawr itself was a castleated column of rocks sticking up about 30 feet from the surroundings. I left my rucksack at the bottom for the scramble to the top.

    For regular followers of my blog I apologise for my increasingly scruffy appearance as my beard grows longer!
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  • Glyder Fach check point 35

    21 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    From Glyder Fawr the walk is level across a rocky landscape. The pieces of stone are very hard that crashed together like glass as I walked over them. After the rocking landscape is the high rocky outcrop of Castell y Gwynt (castle of the winds) comprised of huge slabs of rock standing on end like needles. It was exhausting to climb over them. Once the other side more ‘moon surface’ rocks to Glyder Fach a few hundred yards further. At the bottom I removed my rucksack to clamber over huge rocks like beach boulders the size of cars to get the 40’ to top of Glyder Fach. It was MUCH harder to ascend than Glyder Fawr.Leia mais

  • End of day 38

    21 de junho de 2022, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    From Glyder Fach it was all downhill to YHA Idwal Cottage, my accommodation for the night where I had booked a single room.

    There is about a quarter mile more plateau north of Glyder Fach before it descended. Some years ago I had descended a direct, very steep route due north of Bwlch Tryfan. The Cambrian Way guide suggests a less direct hairpin via Miners track. I had walked, neigh slid, the direct route so was keen to avoid it. Emily’s party had also said it was not fun.

    From Bwlch Tryfan to the hostel was very steep, mostly over rock some of it laid. Feet and knees were pounded so ached by the time I got to the hostel.

    Arrived at the hostel 19:15 having taken 10 hours. Warden Jerome said he would expect it to take 6, discouraging!

    YHA Idwal Cottage
    Nant Ffrancon
    Bethesda
    Bangor
    Gwynedd
    LL57 3LZ
    0345 371 9744

    https://www.yha.org.uk/hostel/yha-idwal-cottage?
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