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Round-the-south

februari - juli 2017
Een 145-daags avontuur van Sara Meer informatie
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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    1
    Dag 51

    Dragoman D5 The Estancia!

    10 april 2017, Argentinië ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    A quick breakfast in the hotel (very poor compared to hostels!) we again started towards the Estancia. With clear blue skies, we could see the mountainous terrain which was lurking in the mist yesterday. Stopping for photos we pulled up next to a swooping circle of condors, massive birds that glide effortlessly through the sky.

    After lunch (empanadas of course) we stopped, seemingly in the middle of nowhere at some gates. No signpost but the guides knew their way. We trundled down a narrow bumpy road for 10 minutes before rounding a corner to the sight of pretty white buildings with terracotta roof tiles. Two elderly horses were wandering around and a host of chickens.

    Waiting for us was Bea, with riding boots and a beret hat she looked the part of a gaucho. Greeting her in Spanish she quickly said hello back ahe was from England. Handing us a lemonade each she gave us a tour of the estancia and explained her role as the manager.

    About a mile from the main house, our little huddle of buildings are the home of the owner and arw used for Dragoman trips aftert over a decade of partnership. With a BBQ area, kitchen and games room we had all that we needed. We set up camp in the field in front with views of green hills and birds of pray swooping above.

    I left James to set up camp as I was on cooking duty. With David in the lead, Bob and I chopped onions, garlic, ginger, carrots and pepper to make a ginger chicken curry. It had a massive thumbs up from everyone.

    At 8 we met in the games room, tonight a pair of local men were coming to entertain us with local Gaucho music. They were called Willy and Charlie and were such showmen. Charlie looked to be in his late 50's with shaggy grey hair and a bit of a paunch. He had a powerfull voice, and on doing a cover of the rolling stones, did a great Mick Jagger impression. Willy was younger, had two gold front teeth, he could play 3 drums at once, wih his hands would be a blur. A talanted musician he could also play a pipe and a small guitar instrument traditional to the area. A few hours later and very happy after a few glasses we rolled into our tents.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    Dag 51

    Dragoman D6 Goucho riding and Asado

    10 april 2017, Argentinië ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    At 10 o clock we were bouncing around the back of Bea's pick up truck, being ferried tobthe main house for horseback riding. The main house was grander in stature, surrounded by stables and sat in beautiful surroundings, this is where you can come stay for a riding holiday for £150 a night.

    We were geared up with helmets and introduced to our horses which they had matched according to our riding abilities. I'm a complete begginer and I was matched to a beautiful mahogany mare called Sinpatica, which means kindness. She was a very gentle, if greedy horse and would listen to my commands about 70% of the time. She loved to be at the front of the pack so if I tried to drop back she ignored me.

    In South America you ride in a different style to Britian (not that I would know). You hold the rains in one hand only, using pull back for stop, and gently pressung the rains against their neck for turning. A kissy noise would make them start and kicks to go quicker, or in my horse's case to tell her off for eating.

    We rode for an hour and a half in glorious sunshine. Our hostess Bea was born in Kenya, grew up in Britain and had first come to the estancia as a guest. She returned as a guide and then persuaded the owner to take her on as a manager.

    Returning to the mainhouse we had a lunch of empanadas with salad before returning to our part of the estancia. With the sunshine continuing I sunbathed and enjoyed a book while watching the chef for the night prepare the asado (South American BBQ). James and Izzy played football with the pack of dogs. They have three collies (Hagis, Clyde and Gilly) and a labrador (trumpet) along with two strays.

    At 7 we were rounded up served wine and we sat down with Kevin the owner of the estancia. Its been in his family for 3 generations since they emigrated from Scotland. The main buisnessnes is still cattle rearing but he and his brother looking to further their income started riding holidays on the side. Trying to get their venture off the ground they went to a travel expose in the UK to attract attention. As a small stall no one paid attention until the founder of Dragoman came for a chat. He explained that between Mendoza and Salta his trucks had nothing to visit and their estancia sounded perfect. The rest is history as Drago trucks have been visiting the estancia for 16 years, around 25 trucks a year. Their riding holiday buisness picked up with time but the dragoman partnership helped them on their way.

    We were fed well that night with ribs, beef, sausages and chicken. We ended the night in the games room making our own music, trying to accompany David's digerydoo.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    1
    Dag 53

    D7 Dragoman- Top of the world

    12 april 2017, Argentinië ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Again by 10 in the morning we were ferried to the horses. Unlike yesterday it was a misty day, giving an eerie feel as we set off in a line. I jumped onto Sinpatica and with growing confidence she didn't push her luck with all the snacking today and listened maybe 90% of the time. She even chilled out in the middle of the pack for an hour or so before marching her way back to the front.

    As we made our way higher and higher the size of their estancia became aparent as it streched out for miles around us. At an open field we had a chance to canter and it was exhilerating to fly through a few fields whilst also holding on to the saddle for dear life!! We continued until we reached "top of the world", the highest point in the estancia. The mist had cleared and you had a 360 breathtaking view of the estancia and the valley below.

    Returning to the Dragoman camp, we had a few hours to relax and have supper before wine tasting with Kevin. He poured 4 different wines, while passing around little bottles with smells as part of a competition to see how many we could get right. They were smells like fruits and incensce that you would expect in a wine bouquet. I was apalling and only got 3 right. He handed out prizes for our riding. I won most improved rider and Charlotte the best rider. We recieved a nice bottle of Malbec! Izzy had the best nose and won a bottle of champagne! With an early start we retured to bed, very sad to be leaving this wonderful little haven in Argentina.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    Dag 55

    D8+9 Dragoman- Journey to Salta

    14 april 2017, Argentinië ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    With time to make up we had an early start and a long journey ahead to get to Salta. Setting our tents down with head torches and carefully loading the growing number of wine bottles onto the bus, we set off.

    As dusk drew near we turned off to our first bush camp. Not the best place, in some scrub near a river bed the local mossies started their attack. Fending them off Charlotte and I set the tents up on sandy ground while James and Izzy cooked a nice meal considering they had to shop at a cash and carry! Retreating from the mossie onslaught it was a hot and stuffy night in the tent so no one minded the 5 am wake up call the next day. Having deeted to the high heavens I had escaped without any bites until I went for a bush wee before I left. The mossies left me 15 bites as a present. The bastards!

    Down a hill a few hours later and we arrived in Salta, a large and religious city. We set out to explore and aimed for the main square where the cathedral lies and found the museum for high altitude archeology. It was a facinating exhibition on the Inca child sacrifices found on mountain tops around the andes. A honour for the children who were from the higher classes in society, they were paraded to Cusco and then paraded up to the mountain top. Given a strong alcoholic drink, hit over the head and buried at the top of the mountain along with precious relics. The girl on display at the museum had been struck by lightening after her buriel, the left side of her body was charred. It was surreal to see, and hard to understand such an alien culture.

    After a siesta (making like the locals) we attended the end of mass at the cathedral. Over 3000 people must have been in attendance as their was no spare seat and many were standing. An impressive space the alter had an aweinspiring golden halo. After the service a procession started around the main square. They carried a statue of Jesus on the cross, stopping at each of the stationsof the cross. It was humbling to see a city where religion is still part of its lifeblood.

    Our next stop was a lively Peña. A traditional place where gauchos would come to eat, socialize and sing. On Balacarce street most were touristy with a stage set and groups singing with folk dancers below them. We had some good empanadas (spicy meat snd ham and cheeee) and tried a tamales. We tried wine from Cafayate since we missed the region. At one point I was dragged off by a dancer to join in a folk dance version of the conga and the hokey cokey! Peñas are definately a must in Salta. With tiredness coming over us after the early start we retired to bed at 1 o clock.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    Dag 56

    Dragoman D10- Purple hair and a Peña

    15 april 2017, Argentinië ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Continuing with tradition we took a walking tour around Salta. The guide was away (or hungover?!) so he sent his friend. Luckily he was knowledgable and his confidence in English grew as the tour went along. We passed the San Fransiscan church, down to the base of the San Barnado hill and to the statue of General Guemes a hero ofbthe region. Finishing the tour he gave us a great tips on a place to have lunch, the patio of empanadas and a peña to visit later.

    Salta is the capitol of empanadas in Argentina and the Patio of Empanadas did not disappoint. We had Arab style, Jerky and Carne along with Tamucos, which arw corn paste and chorizo wrapped in leaves. Across the tables I recognised a couple that we had last met a month ago in El Chalten! We caught up with their travels and are sure to see them again before Lima.

    Next stop was up the hill with the cable cars for a brilliant view over Salta. Walking down we passed shrines that respresented the stations of the cross caked in candle wax, it had been a pilgrim route on Good Friday.

    After siesta it was time for a make over, my rainbow hair for Carnaval had long faded into blonde and green. Having finally tracked down some purple hair dye, Izzy and Charlotte became my colourists and my hair now matches my down jacket!

    Chatting to the local staff in the hostel Izzy had tracked down an authentic Peña a taxi ride away. Called Casona del Milonio its down on Maps.me as a house of worship its revered so much in the community. Arriving at opening time there was already a queue of locals at the door and we luckily grabbed a table in the same room as two groups of locals with guitar cases and drums by their feet. The place had around 6 rooms and 2 courtyards full of people. Ordering some wine and an array of empanadas (jerky, carne and cheese and ham), tamucos, humitas and a plate of cheese we watched as intruments started coming out of the cases.

    A family across from us and a group of young people started taking it in turn to sing goucho music. They sang all night all sorts of folk songs. It was an amazing experience, I only wish I understood more Spanish to understand the lyrics of the songs. A man from Puerto Iguasu joined our table, a chiropractor by trade he offered all the girls massages, but the offer didn't extend to James! With our money running out we reluctantly left the Peña. Definetely the must do thing in Salta.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    1
    Dag 57

    Dragoman D11 The hill of seven colours

    16 april 2017, Argentinië ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Leaving Salta behind we headed to Purmamarca the home of the hill of seven colours.On the way we passed through a devastated village now raised to the ground after the mass floodings and mudslides in February.

    When arriving at our destination the hill did not disappoint, with a mix of red, oranges, purples and green colours running through the stones.

    As we had stayed in a hostel instead of a hotel in Salta we upgraded from camping to a hostel. Running from room to room we somehow ended up with the smallest room for the 4 of us younger travellers. The older couples had a room each. The hostel didn't have wifi but did have Satalite TV!

    We hiked for 3km around the hill with James running off to conquer each little peak or stone formation. I had a go and reached pretty high up a knife edge before vertigo hit and I had a hasty retreat. On the way down I spotted a man in a poncho it was Bob- now known as Llama Bob! The town was full of souviners and we were sad that we had run out of argentinian money. Hopefully they will be just as good over the border in Chile and Bolivia.

    Back in the hostel I set about chopping onions and veg again for a stew and we had a lovely meal together polishing off all the opened wine before the border crossing into Chile. We crashed back in the room, changed into pj's and watched Pirates of the Carribean and Hook before falling asleep.

    Tomorrow we will leave Argentina for the last time. An expansive and beautiful country with such varied landscapes and friendly people I've really enjoyed travelling through (maybe minus the expense and the long bus journeys!) I hope the economic problems improve for them soon, and don't think I'd hesitate coming back if I had the chance... maybe Ushuia and a cheeky trip to Antartica when I win the lottery!    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    1
    Dag 58

    D12 Dragoman- A starry sky

    17 april 2017, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Crossing into Chile over the andes, we reached an altitude of 4700 meters. Except for mild shortness of breath, or a bit of lung burning when I tried a sprint thankfully it didn't have any other affects.

    As we ascended up the windy road the landscapes kept changing. From mountainous valleys above the clouds, to salt flats stretching on for miles. Arrid land with cacti and llamas turned into Volcanos and the desert.

    We stopped at the last town in Argentina for lunch supplies next to a playground. Izzy, James, John and Sheila had fun in the kids playground trying the see saw and slides. Starting back on the road we put on a Singing in the shower playlist and sang our hearts out.

    We arrived in San Pedro de Atacama mid afternoon and it was a bustling little town. Our hostel was on the main street and we had a room to ourselves for the first time since Santiago. Heading out the main street was full of little artesan shops, tour operators and little restraunts. After some shopping around we booked onto a stargazing tour for the evening.

    Hungry we had been advised by Lou the tourguide that the minimarket by our hostel made great empanadas. We were all starving so ordered four each. Something shouldnhave twigged when they bought out three crates for us to carry the empanadas back tobthe hostel. In Argentina empanadas are small... not so in the desert. Out came 16 giant pies. We fell about laughing which oerplexed the owner. Paying for our empanadas we had supper, lunch and supper again sorted for the next few days!!

    At nine we were loaded onto a bus and headed out into the desert. As we stepped out an amazing site awaited, the stars were out, more than I'd ever seen. The milky way was a clear streak in the sky and thousands upon thousands of stars twinkled away.

    Our first guide talked to us about how thwle local tribes of the area see the sky. The southern cross is called a Cucharra and is the house which holds the whole universe. Its four starts represent stages of life, the first pregnancy, represented by a snake and water. The second middle age, represented by a Puma strong and wise. The third old age, represented by a Condor and the fourth star being the connection between life and death. The four starts also represented pillars of life being do good, reciprocity, to be a leader and minga. Underneath lay the dark serpent which coils underneath the milky way.

    They called the milky way the river of souls and in November when the milky way touches the mountains they celebrate the day of the dead.

    Our second guide way an Astronomer, he talked us through star formation and death, how far the planets were away and pointed outbthe different consilations, including the llama! We were able to look through telescopes at Jupiter, Saturn, the orion nebula and a cluster of stars. By the end of the night we had seen at least five shooting stars. Arriving back at the hostel after midnight we'd had a night to remember in the desert    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    1
    Dag 59

    Drago D13 - Moon valley

    18 april 2017, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    A lesiurley morning started with breakfast and good coffee at last at Roots Cafe. A reggae themed place with a wall of famous people to puzzle over. Back in the hostel we gorged on wifi to upload photos and update blogs. Life admin done we walked along the main street popping into the souvenir shops to get the best deal. I bought a colourful scarf, bag and purse. I'll have to wait until Bolivia for my Mate cup.

    Mid afternoon we joined a tour to moon valley guided by a lovely local called Miriam. She already wore a scarf securely round her neck and warned of sandstorms on our trip.

     Moon valley is so called because it's so dry that it shares the same conditions as the surface of the moon. It looked more like the surface of Mars with red rock caked in salt crystals. We battled 70km winds and a sandstorm to climb the ridges for the panoramic view. A great sand dune lay on one side, while red rock ridges rose up either side. We had a pit stop at a rock formation called the three Marys by a Belgian priest. I was more impressed by the rock next to it that loked like a dinasour head! Passed the "amphitheatre" and made our way to the caves hewn out by the wind.

    Putting our head torches on we wove our way through rock corridors before entering the cave. Slip and slidding, crouching and climbing we made our way through and came back out into the light to another panoramic view of red rock towers.

    In the same bus was a group from a rival tour group that tested our patience. Thank god they weren't on our tour as I may have left. Talking loudly that they were missing a football game, they were ignoring the amazing landscape around them. The only point in which they became animated was when pulling moonies in moon valley 🙈. It might sound mean but some people are tourists with a capital T.

    Back on the bus we continued in to Coyote rock, this is where we had the stargazing tour the night before. In daylight we could see that we were on a high cliff. As the sun set in the distance the rocks turned into deeper shade of reds. Leaving Chile tomorrow we cross the altiplano to Bolivia.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    Dag 60

    Dragoman D14- You shall not pass

    19 april 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Jumping into the bus at 8 we headed to the Chilean border control at the edge of San Pedro de Atacama. It opened at 9 so we were onenl of the first in the queue apart from two cyclists. Our plan was to cross the altiplano into Bolivia which would take us up to an altitude of 5200m and we woukdnpass through lagunas filled with wildlife. How the cyclists thought they could cycle over that pass in a day was beyond us.

    As the shutters opened we were dismayed to hear that the border was closed as the high pass had snow and high winds. We could wait untill 11 for further news, stay in San Pedro until it opened (it was census day so everything was shut!) or make a new plan. Pros at the unexpected Lou and David snapped to plan B. There was another border 4 hours up the road. Off we went.

    After fueling up at a city we continued on a lonely road with not a spec of life in sight. Flanked by volcanos either side, Mamasita battled through high winds and sandstorms that sandblasted the windscreen. Arriving at the Chile border we saw a commercial bus so knew the road was clear to Bolivia. Stamped out we continued to the Bolivian border, to find that even though they are in the middle of nowhere with less than 50 people crossing a day they were shut for a 2 hour lunch!

    Once the Bolivians had been fed and watered we crossed into Bolivia. Stopping at a laguna we spotted flamingoes, comerants, ducks, cranes and herds of llamas. As a pack, 8 of us stalked a lone flamingo for the best shot. The llamas were very stately and were beautifully decorated with colourful ribbons and bells that chimed as they moved. As it got later we came across lone sheppards hearding their flock back towards pens for the night.

    As sunset fell we stopped at a few villages looking for a hostel/hotel so that we wouldn't have to bush camp in high winds. We struck gold in the small mining town of San cristobal which had room in its ecohotel. Due to the constant sun its solar powered shower was bliss! The only open restraunt in town luckily had just enough llama and beef stakes to feed us all. Accompanied by egg, rice and chips it was a very filling meal which sent me straight off to sleep the minute mubhead hit the pillow.

    We later learnt that the other border never opened again so we made the right choice with plan B!    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerRound-the-south
    Dag 61

    Dragoman D15- Trainspotting

    20 april 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Suprisingly the small ecohotel gave us breakfast with some yummy coconut yoghurt and passable coffee. Setting off on Mamasita we arrived in Uyuni the gateway to the salt flats. It was market day and the town was full of energy.

    Bolivia is the first time in South America that I've felt we've come across a different culture. The people here are small in stature, I'm taller than any of the men. So as we weaved through the market stalls we had to duck under awnings, and felt like giants among the locals.

    Whilst most men typically wear trainers, jeans a jacket and a baseball cap the majority of women are in traditional clothes. On their head lies a bowler hat slightly to small for their head. Apparently in the 18th century, when they were in fashion, a big shipment arrived in Bolivia for the men, but they turned out to be too small, so the women wore them instead. If lying on top of the head the woman is married, if towards the back of the head she is single. They then wear colourful sholes with a colourful shirt. Then a hooped skirt with long fluffy patterned tights and leather shoes. An amazing dress. I keep trying to take sneaky photos of the but get caught, and get "no photos". I'll keep trying.

    The market had everything and anything you could want. Fruit and veg, electricals, clothes, phones. Endless streams of stalls each with a lady vendor in traditional dress busy knitting her next cardigan, with a baby strapped to their back swaddled in sling.

    Once fed we had a quick journey to the outskirts of town to the train graveyard. Two tracks full of abandoned train engines and carriages stretching for over a mile. Slowly rusting away, most are covered in colourful graffiti. It was like playtime, James, Charlotte, Izzy and I climbed most of the engines looking for the most creative photo to take. Trousers were ripped, hats were lost and boughts of ver0tigo were conquered to pose on top of the iron giants. We spent two hours in total and didn't want to leave.

    Checking in to the hotel we had a few hours before we all (minus Bob and Faye who seem to eat steak and a 3 course meal every night) had food in the hotel. Famed for being the best pizza in town, Minuteman restraunt. We were joined by a Toucan tourguide who was transitioning and was full of stories as she had been a overlanding tourguide for years. One of her groups in Africa had a love triangle where one of the women scorned cut up the others pasport and they were thrown in jail! Finishing the good pizza we headed to bed happy.    Meer informatie

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