• Siewch
  • Siewch

Spain & Italy

Circumnavigating the globe in a single trip. Read more
  • Initial Explorations in Rimini

    March 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    After securing my seat on the San Marino bus, I made my way to the riverfront and towards my first sightseeing goal, which is the Atlas Obscura listed Bridge of Tiberius. built 2,000 years ago, it still serves pedestrian traffic. After crossing over, I chilled in the nearby park and did some people watching. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/ponte-de-ti…

    I then continued wandering the old town, and I found a map that showed the locations of the old Roman structures in the area. I was tempted to look for the ruins, but I decided to go see the Adriatic Sea because it might well be the only time I see the Adriatic on this trip. Along the way, I tracked down another Atlas Obscura sight - a house covered with seashells. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/house-of-th…
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  • Desperately Seeking Fritto Misto

    March 28 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    In the evening, I walked around a bit in the area southwest of my hotel looking for fritto misto as Rimini is reputed to have good restaurants serving this fried seafood meal. I was surprised how lively the area was with young people enjoying their Saturday night out. But, none of the restaurants I encountered really enticed me, and that was because I found a no frills restaurant serving this dish during my earlier explorations and I just knew it’d be much better value for money.

    After enjoying the evening scenes and people watching, I made my way over the Bridge of Tiberius and walked a short additional distance to Borgo Fritto, where I enjoyed a really wonderful fritto misto for only €9. The two women working at Borgo Fritto barely spoke English, but they were lovely and kind. It was a self-serve situation - they hand you a piece of paper to put on your table, you grab your own drink from the fridge, and they hand you your food in a paper carton. But, this is right up my alley as I love any place with a street food vibe.
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  • Montale Tower

    March 29 in San Marino ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    As I mentioned in an earlier entry, I have a weird obsession with the European microstates which is why I broke my journey in Rimini to visit San Marino, which is my third microstate after Vatican City and Monaco. Now I only have Andorra and Liechtenstein to go. Although not considered microstates, I also have a weird obsession with Malta and Gibraltar so I may undertake a microstate tour sometime in the future.

    Despite noise from the street, I had a decent sleep at Hotel Napoleon. I chose this accommodation because it is very close to the train station and next to the San Marino shuttle bus stop. After consuming my complimentary breakfast, I boarded the San Marino bus which deposited me at the city wall a little under an hour later.

    My first impression of San Marino was that is was full of tacky touristy shops. There were so many perfume shops, which left me gagging a little. There were also a number of gun and weapons shops as San Marino has some of the most relaxed gun laws around.

    I knew the walled city had three towers. I took a few minutes to orientate myself before I decided to go to the farthest and least visited one - Montale - to the south and then make my way north to the other two.

    There was hardly anyone on the path to Montale. I got there after about 15 minutes of walking from the main town. It turned out to be a single tower with no access to the interior. It must have snowed recently in San Marino because there was snow piled up on the sides of the roads and pathways.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/montale
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  • Cesta Tower

    March 29 in San Marino ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The tower immediately to the north of Montale is Cesta. Here, I purchased an €11 pass which granted entry to this tower and to Guaita Tower, plus some other state museums.

    Cesta is much larger than Montale. Housed inside the main tower is a museum of armaments displaying weapons that were in use in San Marino in the past. I also climbed out onto the tower and enjoyed the views there.Read more

  • Guaita Tower

    March 29 in San Marino ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Guaita Tower is the largest and grandest of the three towers, and there were many more people here. To get to Montale Tower earlier, I had to go across some stone steps which I knew were at the edge of a cliff. I’m not great with heights so I didn’t love going onto this path. Anyway, to get to Guaita, I had to retrace my steps and go back along the same trail.

    I thought about going up the tower, but there was a long queue to get onto the single ladder going up and down, and my tendinitis-impacted left knee was starting to act up. So, I gave it a miss and instead explored the lower walkways. Inside the tower, there was one Atlas Obscura site: drawings on the walls of the prison made by past prisoners. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/prisoner-ar…
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  • San Marino

    March 29 in San Marino ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After visiting the three towers, I spent the rest of my time exploring the maze of narrow cobblestoned streets. The streets blended into one another because they all sold tacky tourist souvenirs and perfume, with the odd gun shop thrown in for good measure.

    Hidden among the lanes was one Atlas Obscura site, Cava del Balestrieri, where the (now ceremonial) Crossbow Corp practice their craft. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/cava-del-ba…

    I had a pizza lunch in the town center, and then I visited the State Museum, which had a collection of religious art (many also with disturbingly violent images), archeological artifacts from medieval times and earlier, and, oddly, a collection of Egyptian artifacts. I was hoping to learn about how San Marino became the world’s oldest republic, but there wasn’t anything about the founding of the republic.

    After the museum, I made my way back to the bus stop to catch the bus back to Rimini, and I had a coffee while waiting for the bus.

    This was a rewarding day of exploration, and I can also now check independent country number 40 (excluding territories such as Puerto Rico and Hong Kong) off my list.
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  • The Kindness of Strangers

    March 29 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I still had some daylight left when I got back to San Marino, so I decided to look for last night’s sights in daylight. I learned that the big castle was named Castel Sismondo. I also spotted a Fellini museum, and other public works celebrating Rimini’s most famous figure. If I come back to Rimini I will make it a point to watch some Fellini films and learn more about him first.

    As the sun set, I set off for Borgo Fritto to get a second fix of fritto misto. Google indicated they would be open, so imagine how gutted I was when I found them closed. Dejected, I wandered around looking at restaurant menus until I found one with fritto misto… at €20 which was more than double last night’s. I decided I had nothing to lose. When I was seated, I was a little taken aback when the waitress spoke even less English than the two women at Borgo Fritto, which was a surprise considering the restaurant had an English menu (and, oddly, a Russian one as well). But, we met each other halfway and we made it work. I ordered the fritto misto and a glass of white wine.

    A few minutes after I ordered, the waitress put a simple green salad in front of me, and motioned to use the olive oil and balsamic vinegar bottles on the table to fashion a dressing. I assumed the salad came with the meal, and so I shrugged and ate it. Then, she put a meat stuffed bread on the table and motioned to me to try it. After that, came the fritto misto which was good and, to be fair, came in a larger portion than last night’s. All this time, the owner of the restaurant was nattering away with the regular patrons and he didn’t pay much attention to me. When I finished the fritto misto, I motioned to the waitress that I was too full for dessert, and that I would just like an espresso. I was dumbfounded when she put a small piece of cake with chocolate sauce on the table, and when my coffee came, she slipped me a limoncello. I was fretting at this point thinking the bill was piling up, but a little voice inside me told me that this was just a human being showing kindness to a stranger journeying through a strange land by himself. True enough, when the owner rang up the bill, the salad, the meat stuffed bread, the cake, and the limoncello were not listed. I left a big tip. I won’t publicly state the name of this restaurant here because I don’t think the owner knew I got so many things for free.

    Throughout my travels and my life abroad, I have encountered so many instances of people extending kindness to me, such as the man in Makassar who hailed a rideshare for me and refused reimbursement, to the street vendors outside my Bangkok apartment who were so kind to me, and too many other instances to list here. I just hope that I put in enough good energy into the world to balance all the kindness I have received.
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  • Rimini to Pescara

    March 30 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    After another hotel breakfast, I set off for the train station for the 3 hour journey to Pescara. At Pescara Centrale, my cousin was waiting for me. We walked a couple of blocks for her to take care of some logistics related to her move, and then we had a coffee before we set off for our lunch reservation.Read more

  • Ortona

    March 30 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Since we were on the coastline, my cousin decided to drive us 30 mins south to Ortona for seafood. We had a good lunch at Trattoria San Domenico, after which we walked around the town a little and then we explored the Castello Aragonese located next to the restaurant. After that, we drove down the coast a little before heading to her farmhouse in Penne. The rain, which was forecasted for the next few days, started as we were driving to Penne. At Penne, we stopped for groceries before heading to her farmhouse where my first priority was to do laundry. In decades of traveling, I’ve never perfected the art of washing socks in hotel sinks, so I had quite a few stinky and crusty pairs of socks in my backpack!Read more

  • Penne

    March 31 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    It was rainy and cold all day; the car display said it was 4 degrees celsius. We braved the rain and ventured out into Penne for lunch, and we also explored a little in the rain. Penne is a cute town on top of a hill and there were many narrow cobblestone lanes to explore. It did get a little treacherous in the rain as I feared slipping and exacerbating my tendinitis.

    After this exploration, we retreated to my cousin’s farmhouse and watched movies for the rest of the day. We watched The Wild Robot, and a disturbing David Cronenberg film titled Crimes of the Future.
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  • Farm Life

    April 1 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    I stayed at my cousin’s farmhouse on the outskirts of Penne. She had asked for my help in pruning olive trees but we abandoned those plans due to the rain. When my cousin bought the farmhouse, it came with two friendly barn cats - Spot and Funghi. I enjoyed interacting with them.Read more

  • Pescara to Rome

    April 1 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    My cousin drove me to Pescara to catch my 12.45pm bus to Rome. The bus trip took less than three hours and we passed by some scenic snow covered mountains en route. When I got to Rome Tiburtino bus station, I took the metro and connected to a bus to get to my friend David’s apartment near Piazza Navona.

    When I arrived at David’s apartment, we hung out for a bit catching up before we headed out to dinner at a nearby restaurant with his wife Jeannie.
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  • Piazza Navona & Vicinity

    April 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I visited Rome three times in the 1990s. As such, I had already seen all the main tourist sites, so for this visit, I utilized Atlas Obscura to guide my wanderings.

    My friend David’s apartment is very close to Piazza Navona, and so I started my wanderings there. I looked at the Neptune fountain, the fountain of the four rivers, and then I set off to find a nearby Atlas Obscura listing, Fontana dei Libra, which features a deer and four books. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/fontane-dei…Read more

  • Pantheon & Vicinity

    April 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The area surrounding the Pantheon was fertile ground for Atlas Obscura hunting.

    The Piazza della Minerva just east of the Pantheon boast two sights. The first was an obelisk that was brought from Egypt, and in the 1600s, it was erected atop a base featuring an elephant. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/elephant-an…

    In the immediate vicinity of the obelisk is the Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. This church has five plaques to the right of the front door which record the level of ancient floods from the River Tiber. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/flood-memor…

    Located a few minutes away from the obelisk is a marble foot, which archeologists believe belong to a long lost statue which would have been about 25 feet tall. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/pie-di-marmo

    The next site was in a nondescript alley nearby. Amidst outdoor restaurant tables is a block of stone believed to be the remains of an ancient temple. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/durandals-mark

    My wanderings then took me to a nearby Jesuit church named St Ignazio. When this church was under construction, money ran out and so they abandoned their plans to construct a grand dome. In its place, they painted a full size illustration of a dome which fools the eye into believing there actually is a dome there. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/dome-illusion

    The sixth and last Atlas Obscura site I visited in the vicinity was the Temple of Hadrian featuring 2nd century columns incorporated into a modern building. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/temple-of-h…
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  • Trevi Fountain & Vicinity

    April 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After the Pantheon, I made my way to the Trevi Fountain. En route, I stopped at one Atlas Obscura-listed site, the Galleria Sciarra, featuring an art nouveau courtyard with frescoes covering the walls. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/galleria-sc…

    Next up was the Trevi Fountain which was really crowded. I cannot imagine what it would be like during the peak summer season.

    Immediately next to the Trevi Fountain is Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Trevi, a church that is best known for housing the embalmed hearts and organs of 22 popes, with the most recent one from 1903. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/7122
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  • Spanish Steps & Vicinity

    April 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    En route from the Trevi Fountain to the Spanish Steps, I tracked down the Zucchari Palace, also known as Monster House, as its facade features giant monsters with their mouths wide open.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/zuccari-palace

    The Zucchari Palace led directly to the top of the Spanish Steps, from there I enjoyed the view. I recall in the 1990s, I shopped for suits from the high end shops around the Spanish Steps as I had to wear them at work. Things have certainly changed since then.
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  • Piazza Popolo & Vicinity

    April 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    From Villa Borghese, I walked down the Hill to Piazza Popolo. After admiring the piazza, I sought out a statue called Il Bubiano, or The Baboon. Apparently, the statue, which depicts a satyr, was considered so ugly that it was named for a primate instead. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/il-babuino-…

    Next up was the Mausoleum of Augustus, and a nearby wall commemorating his deeds.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/mausoleum-o…
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/replica-of-…

    My final Atlas Obscura site of the day was a fountain at what was once Rome’s river port. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/porto-di-ri…

    After this site, was made my way down to the River Tiber’s banks, walked a short way along it, and then made my way back to Piazza Navona and on to David’s apartment.
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  • Aventine Hill

    April 3 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I started out my morning by visiting Aventine Hill, which is where the Atlas Obscura listed Aventine Keyhole is found. Located in a cul de sac, this keyhole is in a nondescript green door, but when one peeps into the keyhole, they will see St Peter’s Basilica perfectly framed by an avenue of trees.

    I took the bus to get to the base of Aventine Hill, after which I walked up the hill, only to find a long queue of people waiting to peer into the keyhole. I figured the line would move quickly; after all, how long could it possibly take to peep into a keyhole and take a picture or two? Sadly, I was wrong. People were posing for photos, taking selfies, etc. I eventually ended up waiting 45 minutes for my turn. When I did peer into the keyhole, I saw that the Vatican was indeed perfectly framed in the keyhole. Unfortunately, my phone camera could not focus on the distant basilica with the keyhole right in front of the lens, so I could not get a decent shot of anything other than the keyhole,

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/the-aventin…
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  • Between Aventine Hill and Piazza Venezia

    April 3 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    After peering into the Aventine keyhole, I walked down the hill towards a trio of Atlas Obscura sights. The first was the Mouth of Truth, which is a humanoid face carved into a round stone. Legend has it that if one were to stick their hand into the mouth of the stone and tell a lie, the stone will bite the hand off.

    When I got to the site, I saw that there was a long line of people waiting to pose for photos with the stone. The stone itself was visible from the street, albeit behind a barred opening. I chose not to queue; instead, I stuck my hand between the metal bars and snapped my photos just as people left after posing with the stone. https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/the-mouth-o…

    Across the street from the Mouth of Truth were the Temple of Hercules Victor and the Temple of Portunus.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/temple-of-h…
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/temple-of-p…

    After viewing these sights, I walked towards Piazza Venezia and stopped to admire some Roman ruins. I also had a sandwich en route.
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  • Piazza Venezia

    April 3 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    My next stop was the Piazza Venezia, which houses the grandiose monument to Victor Emmanuel, along with various other museums and cultural institutions which are collectively branded as “VIVE”. Entrance to the main plaza at the Victor Emmanuel monument is free, and I enjoyed the views from there, including the nearby Forum and the Colosseum in the distance.Read more

  • Good Friday Mass at St Peter’s Square

    April 3 in Vatican City ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After the cat sanctuary, I looked around for a gift for David and Jeannie, explored a farmer’s market, and then I went back to their apartment. The streets were especially busy with tourists, and I was tired from having to deal with the crowds. However, because it was Good Friday, I contemplated going to St Peter’s Square in the Vatican for their 5pm mass, but the thought of dealing with crowds was a little daunting. At David’s apartment, we checked out the Vatican’s live webcam and saw that the crowd was astonishingly light. I decided then to walk to St Peter’s Square and watch the livestream of the mass from there.

    The walk to the Vatican took 20 minutes. The crowds were indeed manageable, and I happily parked myself in front of one of the screens and watched the proceedings - which were streamed live from nearby St Peter’s Basilica - and their ritual and solemnity.

    Like almost everyone else around the world, I was stunned when the white smoke billowed from the Vatican chimney and word got out that they elected an American to the papacy. Truth be told, I was tickled more than anything else as my initial research indicated that Robert Prevost was even more progressive than Pope Francis, and I took this to be a big middle finger to Trump. Who would have thought that the Catholic Church would move to the left while the US moved hard right? Regardless, Pope Leo XIV has grown on me and I was more than happy to observe this mass despite my odd history with organized religion.

    I left the Vatican just before 7pm and met David and Jeannie for dinner at a lovely restaurant on the banks of the Tiber, a perfect end to my journey.
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  • Rome Fiumicino to Hong Kong

    April 3 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Cathay Pacific CX292 | FCO/HKG
    Business Class
    Airbus A350-900 | B-LRK
    ATD/1257 | ATA/0604+1
    British Airways Lounge

    From David’s apartment, I took a bus to Termini, and connected to the Leonardo Express to Fiumicino. I used the Fast Track lane to clear security, and then I went through immigration and on to the British Airways Lounge.

    About 50 minutes before departure, I made my way to the gate, and it was fortunate I made the call to leave early, because I had to walk quite a distance to the E pier only to discover that we were boarding from a satellite terminal which is accessible only by bus.

    The flight to Hong Kong was fine but I didn’t get as much sleep as I wanted, and that was mostly because there were a bunch of loud Italians in the Business Class cabin. Service was good but not outstanding, and I was surprised that the junior cabin crew did not consistently address me by name. The amuse bouche and main course for lunch were good - the cod in the main course was cooked perfectly and was wonderfully flaky - but everything else was forgettable.

    We landed in a foggy Hong Kong in the wee hours of Sunday morning.
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