• SOBADAdventures
April 2023

Camino Portugues 2023

Kevin and I have been dreaming of walking the Camino de Santiago for the past several years. I’ve always found walking a time for introspection and enlightenment, something I feel the pull to do from time to time. Read more
  • Trip start
    April 1, 2023

    Lisbon, Portugal T-2 Days

    March 31, 2023 in Portugal

    We arrived in Lisbon this evening, hungry and tired from a long bus ride from Salamanca. Today was not without its misadventures but we’re here. Tomorrow we will do final preparations for the Camino and hopefully find some time to do a little exploring.Read more

  • Lisbon, Portugal T-1

    March 31, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Today, we took a slow stroll to Cathedral Sé where we will receive our first stamp in our Pilgrim Credentials and officially start our Camino tomorrow. In front of the cathedral is where St. Anthony was born. We then strolled down to the oceanfront and of course Kevin had to dip his fingers in the water. We marveled at the incredible architecture from the tiled pedestrian pavement known as calçada portuguesa to the intricate details and tiling on the buildings. You can easily see the Roman and Islamic influence here.Read more

  • Day 1, Lisbon to Alverca do Ribatejo

    April 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Total Distance: 16.44 miles
    Steps: 34,340
    Highlight of the day: Ricardo, a friend we made in 2016, when we hiked the Inca Trail together, lives in Madeira, but he is visiting his parents in Lisbon. He knew we were starting today and just happened to see us as he was driving his parents around, so he stopped and chatted with us for a bit. What a great surprise!

    Today was spent mostly walking out of Lisbon, but part of that was walking through Lisbon’s impressive World Expo Park. A great place for families to enjoy the lovely gardens and the oceanfront.
    We met a few other Camino pilgrims today: Nic, who is active duty Navy, and is stationed in Morocco; a woman named Pitra; Scott from Canada, who we walked with for the last part of the day; and a couple we met from Holland right before we got to our alburgue (hostel).

    We’re both a bit tired and our feet are sore, but overall it was a great first day. The weather was perfect. We stopped at a restaurant around the 11th mile and ate delicious burgers with bacon and pineapple and homemade chips, and beer!
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  • Day 2 Alverca do Ribatejo to Azambuja

    April 2, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Total distance: 18.99 mi. We started off just as the sun was rising with our new friend, Scott from Canada. It seemed the three of us were in good spirits and ready for another day on the Camino, which considering I had yet to have any coffee was pretty good! We figured we’d find a place for coffee soon enough, but no such luck until 4.45 miles down the road. The Boia Bar in Alhandra was a much welcomed sight by then. An hour later, fueled by coffee and pasteis de nata, a popular Portuguese custard-filled pastry, we were back on our way. It turned out to be a long , warm day. By the time we arrived at the Alburgue (Pilgrim hostel) in Azambuja, we were ready for a good night’s rest.Read more

  • Day 3 - Azambuja to Valada

    April 3, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Today was a short day of only 9 miles hiking. We pushed fairly hard the first two days, 16 and 18 miles. We are both a bit sore with a few minor blisters on our feet, but we're feeling great to be here and enjoying Portugal.

    Although the busy season has not begun, all the alburges are pretty full, we're going to have to start making reservations so we don't end up having to do an unexpectedly long hike. The next alburges from here is 12 miles (total of 20 miles for the day). And since we have a whole month to do the hike, we're not in a hurry.
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  • Day 4 Valada to Santarém

    April 4, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Day 4. Total distance today: 11.90 miles. After a nice breakfast prepared by our fabulous host at Casal das Areis, we were on our way once again. I got a special treat this morning when Paso Doble, the horse, let me give him a scratch behind the ears. Today, was a lovely walk for the most part, partially because we didn’t have to walk on cobblestones until we arrived at our destination town, but also we strolled passed grape vines and enjoyed a welcome breeze for much of the day. The temps are supposed to get to 80 later on, and as we climbed the long hill to get to Santarém, we could feel the heat of the day rising.Read more

  • Day 5, Santarém to Golega

    April 5, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    High five for day 5! We started this morning with the rising sun and were greeted with some breathtaking views as we walked down a medieval cobblestone path on the way out of Santarém. Much of the day was spent walking along farm land, but we had a good mile along a eucalyptus-lined path that made us both miss living in SoCal. Today was our longest day yet, finishing at 19.79 miles. The last two towns we walked through, Azinhaga and Golego are clean and quaint towns, and we are very thankful to have a room with air conditioning this evening.Read more

  • Golega to Tomar

    April 6, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Day 6. Total distance 18.14 miles. We left Golega just as the sun was rising with the promise of multiple cafes along the way. Only we didn’t come across any cafes until noon, and by then, it was beer time. So for the first time in a long time, I didn’t have any coffee this morning. Somehow, I managed.

    We left the flatlands behind us today for some hilly terrain along groves of eucalyptus trees. As the day wore on, it seemed that Tomar, our destination for the night, was getting farther and farther away. Eventually, we made it. We are staying at a really nice hostel, so we’ve decided to take our first zero day tomorrow, i.e., no hiking.
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  • Day 7, Zero day in Tomar, Portugal

    April 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    It was a nice break to be able to leisurely wake up and lounge in bed this morning. We hope to do a rest day about once a week while on this journey. Tomar has been the ideal rest stop. There’s lots to see, a plentiful grocery store, and a great selection of restaurants. The history here is amazing. We grabbed a Tuk-Tuk ride up to the 12th Century Knights Templar castle then took a short stroll through town.Read more

  • Day 8, Tomar to Alvaiázere

    April 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Day 8, Whew, another PR day for me (Kristi). We walked 20.30 miles, a loooong hot day. We walked through more olive groves and eucalyptus forests. We strolled through some quaint villages with gorgeous houses and floral scents throughout the day. That is all wonderful, but we also endured a lot of road walking and cobblestones, which are very hard on the feet. I kept singing to myself, "Follow the yellow arrows, follow the yellow arrows." Just like Dorothy sang in the Wizard of Oz, follow the yellow brick road, follow the yellow brick road. It’s strange, the things that enter your mind when you just allow it to wander. Two highlights of the day: we hiked a bit with a young woman from Germany who is hiking with her dog in her backpack, so cute, and a baby wild boar ran across our path! Little bugger was too quick though, so no photo. Tomorrow will thankfully be a shorter day for us.Read more

  • Day 9, Alvaiãzere to Alvorge

    April 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Day 9 was a splendid day! We walked a short 14 miles to today’s destination in Alvorge. It was not as hot as it has been, and much of today’s walking was on rock wall-lined dirt trails. I don’t think we saw one car until mile 8. We weren’t sure any cafes would be open since today is Easter, so we were pleasantly surprised when we came upon a pastelaria (pastry shop) in the lovely town of Ansião. We met some new hikers today and enjoyed chatting with them, and the Albergue we’re staying in tonight is exceptional. One song that kept popping into my head today was,
    I see trees of green
    Red roses too
    I see them bloom
    For me and you
    And I think to myself
    What a wonderful world
    I see skies of blue
    And clouds of white
    The bright blessed day
    The dark sacred night
    And I think to myself
    What a wonderful world

    It truly is. Happy Easter, and thanks for following us along!
    Read more

  • Day 10, Alvorge to Conimbriga

    April 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Day 10, I can’t believe it’s already been 10 days! We started off with a chill in the air, it did warm up but not as warm as it has been. It looks like we’re in store for some chilly weather and possibly rain later this week. Today’s distance was just short of yesterday’s, finishing at 13.49 miles. We had quite a few inclines today. It never fails, as soon as we start climbing I go into forced march mode. I don’t look up. I just focus on taking the hill, then before I know it, I’m there! We walked through a few small hamlets and enjoyed time on the trail surrounded by trees and wildflowers. Right when we were looking for a shady spot to take a little siesta, we came upon some serious trail magic! Someone had set up patio furniture, coffee, and apples in a quaint little area with cairns and other features to look at. It was a welcome relief, just in time. That’s some Camino Magic!✨Read more

  • Day 11, Conimbriga to Coimbra

    April 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Day 11, we finished our shortest distance yet at 10.59 miles. It will likely be our shortest distance on this Camino. We strolled through a few small villages before making our way back into the woods up and down some hills once more. One of the highlights of the day was it seemed as though we were being led by floral scents at every turn. I am so thankful we are here in the spring when the flowers are in full bloom! Kevin and I are in awe of all the different types of flowers we see and smell here on a daily basis. We walked under an ancient Roman aqueduct before making our way toward Coimbra, our destination town. Just before crossing the Mondego River to get into Coimbra, we stopped to marvel at a convent built in 1648 that replaced the medieval monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova. The ornate altarpiece inside the sanctuary houses the tomb of Queen Isabel, who was canonized in the 17th Century and re-interred from the old convent. From there, we crossed the bridge into the busiest city we’ve been to since Lisbon and the third largest city on the Camino Portugues: Coimbra. Portugal’s oldest university in the Portuguese speaking world is here. Thus, it is very much a bustling college and tourist town.Read more

  • Day 12, Coimbra to Sernadelo

    April 12, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Today we completed 15.51 miles from Coimbra to Sernadelo. This morning was a little slow going for me because my right knee was being wonky. We walked the first few miles mainly on a bike lane. We knew it was supposed to rain today, so we were prepared with our waterproof pack covers and rain ponchos. Sure enough by about 9:45 a.m., a steady rain started. We donned our rain gear and carried on. We didn’t mind the rain because it kept it cool. We did a lot of road walking today, which is murder on the feet after awhile, but we took plenty of breaks to break up the day. Our last stop, we had some hard sparkling apple cider called Sommersby. We both liked it a lot. It wasn’t too sweet and was light and refreshing. We finished the day in Sernadelo, a small town just outside of Mealhada, which is the suckling pig center of Portugal. Guess what's for dinner?Read more

  • Day 14, Zero day in Águeda

    April 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    We took an unscheduled zero day today. I’ve been dealing with some right knee pain. I have chronic knee issues much thanks to the USMC, so it’s pretty remarkable I’m able to do this at all, but here we are, 198 miles later. Kevin went to the store to look for ice, but the stores don’t start getting ice until August here.😳 But, they did have frozen peas, which works even better. So I’ve been resting, elevating, icing, and stretching off and on all day and it’s feeling much much better, yay! Here’s hoping tomorrow I’ll be raring to go! Thankfully, the place we’re staying at is nice, the host is super sweet and we were able to enjoy a delicious breakfast and great coffee this morning.Read more

  • Day 15, Serém de Cima, Casa Leo

    April 15, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Day 15, after a short 5.83 miles today, we made the decision to postpone the remainder of our Camino. My knee isn’t feeling any better and we thought it best to stop before I do any further damage. We walked over 204 miles total, which is the most I’ve ever done. I’m quite proud of that. I am also proud of myself for accepting the limitations of my body. It has been an amazing journey, and I know we will be back to finish some other time. This will be the final footprint for this journey, thank you for following along and I invite you to continue following our adventures as we explore this beautiful world of ours.Read more

    Trip end
    April 15, 2023