South Korea
Gangwon-do

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    • Day 89–91

      Südkorea Roadtrip Seoraksan & Odeasan

      October 20, 2023 in South Korea ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      In etwa 40 Kilometer von der nordkoreanischen Grenze entfernt befindet sich der Nationalpark Seoraksan und nochmals etwa 40 Kilometer weiter südlich der Odaesan Nationalpark, welcher unweit von Pyeongchang liegt, wo 2018 die olympischen Spiele stattfanden. Wir freuten uns auf die Schönheit der Koreanischen Berglandschaft. Was wir jedoch nicht auf dem Radar hatten, war der unerbittliche Rhythmus der Wochentage, welcher unweigerlich dazu führte, dass bereits wieder Wochenende war, was wiederum zur Konsequenz hatte, dass die Koreaner in Strömen aus ihren kleinen Stadtwohnungen in die Natur flüchteten. Wir befanden uns mit unserem Hyundai nur gerade beim Taleingang zum Park, als bereits dutzende weitere Hyundais, Kias, SsangYongs und andere Automobile die Strasse versperrten. Unsere Pläne hätten uns noch mindestens 5 Kilometer weiter in die Sackgasse des Talkessels geführt, wodurch wir wohl den Tag im Stau verbracht hätten. Einen Tag im Stau verbringen könnten wir auch in der Schweiz noch nachholen und so änderten wir unsere Pläne und liessen von unserem Navi die Route neu berechnen. Unsere Routenwahl fiel auf eine Passstrasse, die den Nationalpark weiter westlich durquerte. Von dort aus würden wir am Strassenrand unser Fahrzeug parkieren um anschliessend die Berge zu erkunden. Natürlich waren wir nicht die Einzigen mit dieser Idee. Wir navigierten der Passstrasse entlang, die überfüllt war mit Fahrzeugen und Wandergruppen. Auch mit Hilfe der Sattelitenbilder von Google Maps hatten wir keine Chance einen Parkplatz zu finden. Wir befanden uns nach circa zwei Stunden Fahrt ziemlich am nördlichen Ende des Nationalparks, als wir plötzlich noch ein kleines Plätzchen für unseren Hyundai ausmachten. Dahinter befand sich gleich ein Wanderweg, der in den Nationalpark führte und uns zu den Daeseung Falls bringen würde, welche wir eigentlich nicht beabsichtigten zu besichtigen. Doch es war der perfekte Ausflug für uns, eine kurze Wanderung im herbstlichen Laubwald, bei Sonnenschein an der frischen Luft. Das Einzige, was uns etwas irritierte war die Koreanische Wanderkultur, falls man diese so nennen kann. Während es bei uns Zuhause oder beispielsweise auch in Japan die Sitte ist sich gegenseitig zu grüssen und je nach Gelände den entgegenkommenden Wanderern Platz zu machen, verhielten sich die Koreaner, als wären sie beim Defilee einer Militärparade, Blick und Schritt starr geradeaus, ohne auch nur mit der Wimper zu zucken, wenn jemand entgegenkam. Nun, da wir jung, flexibel und adaptiv sind lernten wir schnell damit umzugehen und gingen schon bald in ebenso freundlicher Manier grusslos und stur auf unserem Pfad.
      Die Nacht verbrachten wir in Pyeongchang-gun und am nächsten Tag begaben wir uns in den Odaesan Nationalpark. Diesmal jedoch etwas früher, um die Stosszeiten zu vermeiden. Wir fuhren wieder in einen Talkessel bis zum Woljeongsa Tempel, von wo aus ein Wanderweg dem Flussufer entlang durch das Tal führte. Da tausende auf diesem Pfad ins Tal hinein und hinaus wanderten, war der Weg total überfüllt. Auf der anderen Flussseite führte eine Strasse ins Tal hinein. Bei der Wahl zwischen einem Wettlauf mit Touristenbussen und dem Slalom durch Koreanische Wandergruppen entschied ich mich letztendlich für den Trailrun auf der Strasse. Da Selina sich mit den Wanderern auf dem Pfad abmühte hatte ich am Ende des Tals noch genügend Zeit, um kurz auf den Berg Odaesan zu rennen, von wo aus man eine schöne Aussicht über das Tal und die Laubwälder hatte. Auf dem Gipfel bot sich mir ein sonderbares Naturschauspiel. Mehrere Dutzend Wanderer standen Minuten lang in der Schlange, um sich vor einem Stein der den Gipfel markierte ablichten zu lassen. Für die Aussicht schien sich kaum jemand zu interessieren, Hauptsache man hatte ein Beweisfoto mit dem Gipfelstein. Ich beobachtete das Treiben ein wenig, genoss die Aussicht und begab mich auf den Rückweg. Auf dem Weg zurück machte ich noch einen kurzen Fotostopp bei einem Denkmal, welches mit hunderten farbigen Lampions geschmückt war. Deren Bedeutung und Nutzen waren mir zwar unbekannt, aber sah wirklich sehr hübsch aus.
      Nach dem Wandern im Odaesan Nationalpark begaben wir uns am späteren Nachmittag in ein Dorf in der Nähe von Chungju, einer Stadt ziemlich im Herzen Südkoreas, von wo aus wir am nächsten Tag in Richtung Westküste fahren würden. Die Zeit im Auto versüssten wir uns jeweils mit unseren lokalen Lieblingskeksen, die ein wenig Ähnlichkeit mit einem Petit Beurre Biskuit hatten und diversen Podcasts, Hörbüchern oder sonstigen Audioangeboten, die uns Spotify gerade schmackhaft machte.
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    • Day 1

      The Eastern Dream / Korea

      June 29, 2017 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Well it was time for me to go ‘From Russia with love’. The next part of my trip involved taking the once per week ferry from Vladivostock to Japan via South Korea - a journey that takes two days. The check-in at the Marine Terminal was chaotic - lots of Asian folk pushing and shoving to get on the boat first. A large group of Japanese were determined to get ahead, and their leader - I shall call her Hello Kitty - literally pushed folk out the way as she dragged great amounts of luggage into impossible spaces at the start of the queue. I tried to stand my ground but she pulled folk in front and frantically phoned others at the back of the queue to come up and join her.

      It was a lengthy process going through security and passport control. Of course I ended up with Irritable Irena from Immigration - non-smiling, she went through my passport over and over and kept saying ‘you are not here, you are not here’ looking for some kind of stamp. At one point I thought we were going to get the whole panto routine - ‘well if I'm not in Moscow, and I'm not in Ykaterinburg, I must be somewhere else - and if I am somewhere else, I can't be here.’ Next thing I knew two solidly built officials came over (both female), one with a sniffer dog who took some interest in my bag. ‘Sorry, Fido, but the strongest drugs I have in there are paracetomol.’ There was a lot of chat and I thought I heard the word ‘Gulag’ being mentioned, but maybe my imagination was just working overtime. Anyway, apparently Irena had been looking at the Belarus visa and not the Russian one and I was eventually waved through - without a smile. The only consolation was that I had held up the queue for 20 minutes, and Hello Kitty was right behind me - I tell you she was not a happy pussy!

      Eventually I got on board the DRS Cruise Ferry, Eastern Dream. All I can say is that it has seen better days. (Ken, I really don't think it is quite Celebrity Class!). Again I was booked 2nd class, which actually turned out to be a large room with 8 bunks with curtains, reading light and wash basin. When I saw the Economy class accommodation - dozens of Japanese and Koreans camped out on futons on the floor and enjoying picnics and card games, I was quite glad. Although the majority of the passengers were Asian, I noticed an American couple being shown to the Royal Suite. I had a peek in, and I could tell by their faces they were a little disappointed - no sign of canapés on the balcony! . Before we had left dock there was a big barney- two groups of middle aged Asian men and women screaming and pushing each other at the top of the main staircase - a true stairheed rammy! I was going to start clapping and shouting ‘fight, fight’, but I resisted.

      Finally we set sail. There were lots of announcements in Japanese and Russian but I couldn't make out a word until I realised it was the safety briefing on deck, but no one else seemed to be paying attention anyway. The only thing I could understand was Rod Stewart singing ‘I am Sailing’ as we pulled out of Golden Horn Bay and into the Sea of Japan.

      I tried to solicit some information in English at the Purser’s Desk. A drunk Japenese guy overheard me and said ‘Ah, England, England’. He was very animated and might have been on more than the vodka. I called him Super Mario. ‘Well, Scotland actually’ I said. ‘England’ he persisted ‘Manchester United, Liverpool’. I replied meekly ‘Queen of the South?’ and he looked bemused and returned to the bar.

      I had booked dinner in the restaurant and looked forward to a candle lit affair with a glass of wine and friendly banter with the Maitre D’. Sadly you were given a half hour slot to eat as much as you could from the buffet - a sort of Supermarket Sweep type of idea. I found I could not work out what most of the food was, and did not like the taste of anything, so I ended up with some boiled rice, sweet corn and tomato.

      The entertainment on board included a disco, a sauna and a karaoke (which was very popular). I sat on deck for a while watching the sun go down, as the ship sped towards Korea for our calling point at Donghae.

      The crossing was smooth and the next morning the sea was calm as we sailed into Korea. For some reason we all had to vacate our rooms, even if we were travelling on to Japan, and move to a different berth - very confusing, and again no English explanation - the joys of travel!

      Super Mario appeared looking the worse for wear and greeted me with a shout of ‘Chelsea!’ to which I replied ‘Patrick Thistle’ which seemed to shut him up.

      We docked in the South Korean port of Donghae at 11.30. There was the usual scramble to get off, with Helllo Kitty barking orders to her group. Those traveling on to Japan could get off the ship for about 4 hours so I took the chance to see a bit of Korea. To be honest, there wasn't much to see. By the time we got off the ship and cleared passport control (Republic of Korea stamp in my passport - yipee!) we only had about 3.5 hours. When I asked the lady at the desk what there was to see in Donghae she said ‘the caves, the caves’. So off I went to the local underground caves and, while it was interesting, when you've seen 20 stalactites …

      Donghae was a bit of a ghost town, but I thankfully found a brand new McDonalds with an interesting menu and wifi. Well, time to head back before I miss the boat for my next destination - Japan!
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    • Day 73

      Austria House - Pyeongchang

      February 15, 2018 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

      Awesome night today: We have arrived at Pyeongchang :) and made a trip to the German and Austrian House. As the German House is very exclusive we were not able to go in but the guys from Austria let us in. We had some really, really good Käsespätzle and Kaiserschmarrn and met a lot of very nice people there. The Austrian backer gave us some fresh baked bread. The first real bread since we have started our trip! A big thanks to Günther!!!
      At the end the bar sponsored some Mozart Liquor. You should try that! All in all a very great evening. Austria you are great :)

      And of course a big thanks to Amelie who showed us around in this area.

      Ein wirklich cooler Abend heute: Wir sind in Pyeongchang angekommen und waren am Deutschen und Österreichischen Haus. Leider ist das deutsche Haus sehr exklusiv weshalb wir leider nicht rein könnten, allerdings haben uns die Österreicher ins Haus gelassen. Wir hatten super leckere Käsespätzle und noch besseren Kaiserschmarrn. Zusätzlich hat uns der Österreichische Bäcker noch mit frisches Brot gesponsert. Es ist unser erster richtiges Brot seit Anfang Dezember. Vielen Dank Günther!!!
      Am Ende gab es sogar noch ein paar Schnäpse aufs Austria Haus. Ihr solltet mal Mozart Chocolate Likör probieren!Österreich ihr seid super!

      Und natürlich auch noch ein großes Dankeschön an Amelie. Ohne dich wären wir wohl nicht dorthin gekommen. ;)
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    • Day 8

      Through the Mountains

      September 7, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      We take our time this morning and have coffee at the guesthouse before leaving. We then make our way in to Hongcheon for breakfast. While trying to find something we spot a barber, Richard has been wanting to get a haircut since we arrived. While he waits to be served I go to try and find somewhere to eat. I find something with the typical mix of traditional tables alongside more-my-style tables and chairs. The menu is completely in Korean and the servers speak no English but with a combination of hand gestures, image search and my phone app that kind of interprets Hangeul but not brilliantly, I establish that they serve a choice of noodle dishes. I am unsure what exactly is served with the noodles.

      I return to the barber to see the final stage of Richard's haircut and razor treatment then we return to the eatery to see what we are about to have for brunch. It turns out to be a great meal and exactly what I needed after too many pastry and toast breakfasts. One is possibly a red bean paste based sauce, the other has a mix of mussels, octopus, mushrooms and fungi.

      We are now ready to hit the motorway headed for the mountains. The road is about 70km and at least half of that is tunnels. Total toll about $6. The sat nav takes right to the coast before heading into the Seoraksan National Park. Our hotel is a an Anglophile's dream complete with a London bus in the carpark. As we pull in to the carpark we receive another weather warning about the typhoon that's causing some bother on the west coast. We'll have to wait and see what the weather is like tomorrow before we decide what to do.
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    • Day 9

      Where Mountain Goats Dare

      September 8, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      We can see the top cable car station from our table in the dining room. It was a windy night and we don't know what the weather will be like today. We decide to walk up to the National Park and see what's there. It's only a short walk to the National Park entrance gate where we pay an admission and are told that everything is closed because of the weather. We can go as far as the temple but that's it. We shrug and continue on in.

      The first area we pass consists of a group of standing stones, Stupa, which mark the resting place of ashes of monks. We then come across a small pagoda before coming to the base station for the cable car. Looks like it's running. Before I even open my mouth Richard has the tickets in hand and ten minutes later we are on our way up. We rise quickly; these peaks are dramatic and almost vertical. At the top station we discover we are at 800m elevation which seems astonishing since we can see the sea from here; after all we are only about 15 minutes up the road. We leave the observation deck and strike out on a trail for a few hundred metres that ends up at an open rocky expanse that falls away dramatically into the chasm beneath on one side. No guard rails here; just an obligation to keep your wits about you.

      We return to ground level then follow a path towards the temple. This follows and crosses the rocky stream in several places and passes a large bronze Buddha statue. The temple is ornately decorated and houses three golden Buddhas seated on a raised platform. There is a natural spring nearby that has had a font built over it so visitors can easily scoop water from it.
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    • Day 11

      To Market, To Market

      September 10, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      It's raining today but that's no reason not to get out. We decide to check out the markets. Sokcho Tourist and Fish Markets occupies a large city block with a number of criss-crossing laneways. On the ground floor is mainly food and some household goods, while on the first floor there are a number of clothing outlets and tailors, and on the lower ground floor is a large eatery section, mainly sashimi.

      We spend some time just wandering around inquisitively, I buy some thongs and Richard some shorts. There are many tantalising food options on offer but we're not hungry yet.

      We exit on the far side of the markets and head towards the port. Here there is a small hand-operated punt that transports people across to Abai Village. Hand-operated means if you want to get there quicker you pitch in and help. There are extra large hooks with handles available for passengers to use; basically the hook grabs the cable along the floor and you walk the length of the punt pulling it along then go back the other end and start over.

      Abai Village was originally known as the Displaced Persons Village and is where the remaining older citizens were located when the border was moved north turning this part of the country from North Korean territory to South. It is a little run-down, quaint in parts, not prettied up like the Hanok villages are generally. There are quite a few eateries all touting for business. I suspect prices to tourists will be over-inflated here.

      We return to the other side of the water the same way we came and this time are the only passengers so Richard is pulling his weight alongside the driver whereas on the way over there were others helping out. We dive back in to the markets and pick up a few items from various stalls; pig's trotter, fried slices of blood sausage, tempura prawns, a cup of sticky fried chicken pieces, and to finish off a Hotteok which is a kind of cinnamon sugar pancake stuffed with a seed and nut mix. We ate while watching a young man with a great voice sing one song then a kind of game show host followed up with some kind of audience participation thing and the upshot was that Richard was awrded another container of the sticky fried chicken pieces. Not really sure what that was about but it was fun!

      After a bit of a siesta back at the hotel we head down the road to the Cheoksan Hot Springs Hotel for another bathhouse session. This place is even more spectacular than yesterday's. Only slightly more expensive, it has double the number of bath pools and extra stuff like an open air bath, jet pool and neck shower. Following the lead of the women I saw yesterday, I have brought my little hotel bottles of shampoo and conditioner. I am still oblivious to the routine and protocol, if there is one, and simply choose the facilities by whim. I move from one pool to another before choosing a seated shower spot to wash my hair. I think I do a pretty good job of rinsing everything out. I then return to one or two pools, go upstairs to the open air pool which is glorious; surrounded by rock garden and pines with small birds hopping from rock to rock, there are two pools here, one with actual round boulders for seats; and then back downstairs to the water jet pool. I spend a few minutes letting the jets massage my lower back and the soles of my feet before moving to the neck shower. This pool has a ledge to sit on submerged about waist deep, with a powerful shower directed at the neck. After a few minutes the other woman in this pool is yelling at me in Korean and scooping water out of the pool. Horrified, I realise I have not rinsed my hair as thoroughly as I thought and am leaving suds in the pool. Bowing in supplication, I apologise in Korean (one of the few expressions I have learnt) scoop out some more suds and exit the pool. I head for the cold pool where a small child is playing with her mother. After I get the wobblies from the child I decide it's time to go. It's ok, I'm ready anyway. This has been an outstanding experience; I am incredibly relaxed.
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    • Day 12

      On the Road Again. Heading South

      September 11, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      We have chosen the rainiest day we have had so far to leave Sokcho and start heading south, but we don't have far to go. I was aware there is a national holiday around this time, what I wasn't sure of was which days to travel and which to stay off the roads but I think I have it sorted. Basically Chuseok, which is a likened to Thanksgiving, is a time when Koreans return to their families. Tomorrow is likely to be the day when most people will be traveling so I have organised it so that we won't be. We will travel a little way down the coast and spend 2 nights then travel a bit further down right in the middle of the four day break when hopefully no-one will be on the roads.

      The road follows the coast most of the way and we pull in to take a look at one of the beaches. We walk along the promenade towards the lighthouse in light drizzle. Barely ten minutes or so south of Sokcho is a temple site I have earmarked. I am expecting to see a small temple, a pavilion and a buddha. We walk up the hill from the carpark through Korean red pine forest in the steady light rain to the entrance gate. At this point we begin to get a sense of the size of the site. A gravel path leads up a slight incline towards a hilltop compound where among other pavillions and structures the bell pavillion sits. Beautifully ornate it houses a huge drum and two large bells which are roped off from public access.

      At this point a slight detour leads to a small memorial to forest fires that decimated many of the original structures (most have been rebuilt) including three mounds built solely from the roof tiles.

      Continuing along the path leads to the large standing Buddha. Here there is a smaller bell that for a small donation you can ring. Descending beneath the lip of the hilltop there is a submerged temple where when kneeling you can look up at a 45 degree angle through a glass ceiling to see the full figure of the Buddha above.

      We are now making our way down towards the cliff edge but first the pavillion housing six seated golden Buddhas, three either side of the centre-piece, a radiant, standing, multi-limbed being. There seems to be almost a hint of Hinduism about this temple from the swastika on the outside of the building to the carved stone plinths surrounding the outside with elephants at the base. None of these symbols seem very Korean to me but what would I know. A few more pavillions and a lotus pond later and we reach the small pavillion on the cliff edge. An absolutely stunning site, I'm glad we made the effort to visit.

      We are on the look-out for somewhere to have lunch when I ask Richard to count up how much cash we have left. Not enough for lunch, we search for an ATM. Find one, doesn't work. Find another, doesn't work. Ask someone who says we need a bigger town. ! Huh?

      Ok, we are headed for Gangneung so we will try there, otherwise we are going to be living off the credit card. We find a group of shops with American brands and ask. No ATMs around here. A helpful customer with a few words of English sends us 10km further on and instructs us to look for an E-mart. We spot an ATM booth on the same block as an E-mart. The ATM again does not work. The E-mart has no ATM. I go into the bank branch attached to the ATM and the young woman sends me across the road to another convenience store. Success! Thank god! We can eat, yay!

      We decide to find the hotel and check in first. We are located in a beachside area with a bunch of small hotels in a strip much like any Aussie coastal resort town. Down the road there are a bunch of eateries and we find one doing the similar noodle dishes that we had a couple of days ago, this time the seafood one is all in the shell, mussels, clams and octopus. So delicious.
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    • Day 13

      Beach and Bikes

      September 12, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      The hotel we are in is simple but basic. Breakfast is included but consists of bread and a toaster, cold hard-boiled eggs and strawberry jam. No butter. With that you can have orange juice and filter coffee, no sugar. It will do.

      We then head off for a walk along the beach towards the massive twin tower hotel we have seen from a distance. The entire length of the beach is edged with a boardwalk which makes walking very comfortable and pleasant. As we get nearer to the main section of beachfront we see eight women spread across the width of the sand walking north with a long pair of tongs and a large plastic bag, picking up rubbish as they go. The beach is pleasant, there are a number of the photo spots seen every in Korea, frames against a backdrop of some sort. Two of these appear to feature what we guess are local celebrities, perhaps TV soap opera actors, to have your pic taken alongside.

      We venture inside the Sky Bay hotel for a sticky and head on up to the top floor where there is an infinity pool alongside a bar and restaurant. After sitting for a while no-one comes to take a coffee order so we leave. Across the road is a large lake and alongside is a huddle of bike hire shops offering everything from the canopied four-seater family option through to scooters, regular bikes and electric assisted models. We find a place to have coffee attached to one of these and while happily relaxing with our cuppas talk to the lady about rental rates. We decide to return later in the day. First off lunch and siesta.

      We find a great place for lunch just around the corner from where we had dinner last night. We choose the pork bulgogi stew and with the accompnaying rice and side dishes find that one meal shared is plenty.

      At the arranged time we front up at the bike hire place and collect two electric-assisted bikes. The lake circuit is really lovely. There are sculptures along the way at some places, bird-watching hides at others and a huge lotus pond with a series of boardwalks meandering through the middle. All bar a few of the flowers are finished leaving the large seed pods in their place.

      For dinner tonight we find one of the famous but elusive chicken and beer haunts I have heard so much about. It was nice, it was too much and now that we have had it we probably don't need to have it again.
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    • Day 6

      Anem cap a Sokcho

      October 29, 2019 in South Korea ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

      Ens hem llevat i hem anat cap a l'estació d'autobusos. L'entrada a l'estació estava en una realitat paral·lela. Un edifici gegant i hem trigat 20 minuts en poder entrar. Hem agafat el bus, súper còmode i hem arribat a Sokcho. La ciutat no té res d'especial. Hem dinat i hem anat a l'hotel que està llunyíssim. Hem deixat les motxilles i hem tornat a Sokcho a veure el mercat i a menjar ramen. Després a l'hotel a dormir.Read more

    • Day 7

      Eingang zum Seoraksan National Park

      September 10, 2022 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Hier gibt es viele verschiedene Wanderroute, Tempel und eine Seilbahn für die Geheingeschränken und Wandermuffel, die trotzdem auf Weitsicht nicht verzichten möchten. Vor und hinter dem Eingangsbericht gibt es zusätzlich Restaurants, Cafés und Shops. Die Wege im Nationalpark sind sehr gut erschlossen und ausgebaut. Entsprechend viel los ist auch (vor allem am Wochenende und Feiertag). Wir waren auf dem Ulsanbawi Rock und am Biryong Wasserfall (~14km). Es gibt aber auch längere und Mehrtagesrouten. Mehr Infos zum Park hier 👉 https://wikitravel.org/en/Seoraksan_National_Park
      Eintritt: 3,30€. 9/10.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Gangwon-do, Γκάνγουον-ντο, 강원도

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