Spanje
Belorado

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    • Dag 13

      Etappe 10a - Villafranca 1

      24 september 2022, Spanje ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Links und rechts des Weges gibt es immer einige kleine Sehenswürdigkeiten. Viele der kleinen Dörfer fristen ihren gerechten Schlaf, wenn nicht immer wieder Pilger das Dorfleben aufmischen.
      Heute geht die Pilgerkarawane viele Kilometer durch die Kornkammer Spaniens. Sehr hüglige Landschaft, abgeerntete Felder und hohe Stapel Strohballen.
      Noch eine Bemerkung zum Rucksack: es wurde immer wieder festgestellt, dass man nach einigen Tagen den Rucksack nicht mehr spürt. Richtig, denn ich "suche" ihn manchmal, d.h. ich spüre ihn kaum noch.
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    • Grañón to Belorado

      25 september 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

      A short day today of 16km, to be followed by a rest day. We left our apartment as the sun rose a bit before 8am. Hiking shoes had largely dried out overnight. We found the “My Way” bar/cafe in the main street opposite the church, open for business so had some breakfast there. We’d also had dinner there last night. Good food. Place is run by a Peruvian family.

      As we left town there was luscious golden morning light over the path of the Camino we would follow. The rain had cleaned the air and mountains back behind us were very clearly visible, no haze. Also as we left a small fleet of fan powered paragliders took off from Grañón heading up the Camino. Weather was coolish so long pants and long sleeves, at least for the first 2 hours. Early in the walk we crossed over from the province of La Rioja to that of Castille-Leon. This is our 3rd and largest province.

      We stopped for fresh squeezed OJ, coffee and snacks at a “donativo” in one of the villages. You give a donation in exchange for what you eat. Then on to Belorado mostly on hard packed wide dirt track. Checked into our room in the hotel “A Santiago” and had some lunch. Later on a very good Pilgrim’s dinner for two of us; 3 courses, all substantial and tasty, and a bottle of red for 24€.

      Our rest day is to give our legs and feet a chance to complete their recovery from a few niggles. Last night’s hostel was not available so we have moved to Hotel Jacabeo in the centre of Belorado. It felt good to walk only 1km for the day. As we entered the town square several stall holders were setting up for the day’s market. We strolled around the still deserted old town until we could replenish essentials at the farmacia then returned to the square for coffee and people watching.

      We don’t really expect to see people we have met along the way because we are comparatively slow. But we did see Chris who we have crossed paths with several times and a French girl we had met in Torres del Rio. A quick chat and they continued on the Way. Chatting over coffee Chris and John realised they share a birthday.

      We have an early start and 27km to cover tomorrow so we got breakfast supplies from the supermarket before the siesta close.

      Feeling good after a rest day and good pilgrims dinner (low fixed price 3 course + wine) at the restaurant inside the Cuatro Cantones albergue. We shared a table and a good yarn with a Swedish couple from Stockholm. He is 75 and she 65. Going all the way to Santiago.
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    • Dag 13

      Stage 12: Santo Domingo to Belorado

      25 september 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      I'm not sure I can write about yesterday until I recover from today but don't want to get behind so here goes.
      Sunday (yesterday) was a long day- 22.9 km/14.2 miles, 43°-59°, took me about 8 hours because I stopped every chance I got for food, coffee, water or just to sit down and rest for a few minutes, to appease the grumbling ranks. Feet were expressing doubts about the current regimen but were somewhat reassured by the frequent breaks and a massage with a sample Lush cream bar that has survived in the toiletry kit. Arrived about 5:00 pm to the only place I could find a reservation in Belarado, the Albergue Cuatro Cantones, 4 floors of dorm rooms, a restaurant and a hang out lounge. Was in a bunk room with 5 other people, thankfully in a bottom bunk. Shower room was decent and they washed and dried my clothes for some extra euros. Dinner was great, the kitchen was a well oiled machine cranking out starters, main course and dessert for maybe 80 people? Rioja wine flowed freely. Then the futile attempt to get any sleep ensued, even with ear plugs. I am now convinced I need private accommodations the rest of the way, because without the restorative power of sleep, I won't be able to complete this pilgrimage. Decided on an easy day to Villafranca de Montes de Oca tomorrow, only 11.9 km/7.5 miles.Meer informatie

    • Dag 14

      Stage 13: Belorado to Villafranca

      26 september 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

      So I made it the 11.9 km/7.5 miles to Villafranca de Montes de Oca today, just barely- left hip has resigned, mid back is sulking and feet aren't talking to me. It took me about 4 hours in 44°-56°, shuffling and lurching like the walking dead. I need another layer for these cool mornings, a thin fleece or windbreaker. We are staying in bed this afternoon in my cute little studio apartment (maid service is lacking, had to make my own cup of tea.) Will venture out after siesta in search of dinner. Self administered Reiki for half an hour got left hip to calm down, mid back and feet have agreed to only minimally required effort the rest of the day. Another relatively easy day planned for tomorrow, 18.3km/11.4 miles to Atapuerca.

      P.S. Beyond the whinging, I keep coming back to the central reason for this trek- spiritual pilgrimage. I've wondered if I'm going to be like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz and find that I've had what I've been searching for within me all along. Even so, there is value in making the journey, in what I discover about myself, other people, the world, God. Most days I remember to touch base with Hour by Hour and The Pilgrim's Devotional, conveniently loaded in the Kindle app on my phone. And I like to think the handmade (by Susan Chloupek) Anglican rosary I'm carrying in a pouch near my heart is praying itself, like a Tibetan prayer flag in the wind, with every step. 🙏♥️
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    • Dag 19

      Belorado - town of beautiful murals.. ❤️

      23 september 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Spain is full of graffiti, the amount of it surprised me. I know, graffiti is everywhere. In States there is a lot of graffiti, where we live there is a lot. For some it's art, for some it's a kind of vandalism. Everyone can have their own opinion about the graffiti. But I'm truly enjoying Spanish murals. They see like a breath of fresh air between the graffiti. The town of Belorado so far was a true murals winner. To not miss some of it, you had to have eyes around your head... If you walk forward and not turn your head back you can miss a lot of beautiful murals. Just check for yourself. Some of the pics of the murals are also from Ages. They all just make my heart happy, they are beautiful ❤️Meer informatie

    • Dag 16

      Day 14 - To Belorado

      22 september 2022, Spanje ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      Day 14 - To Belorado (Thursday)

      It was unusual to see someone wearing a John Deere cap, so I had to take a picture.

      Just can’t get enough of those cathedrals! Church of San Juan Bautista in Granon on the way to Belorado, built between 15th and 18th centuries!

      Who would have thought farmland could be so beautiful. But then my frame of reference is the flat prairies Alberta. All the crops had been harvested already except sunflowers (not sure what all they grow but they do grow wheat and barley). And it’s time to harvest that shortly. It is used for sunflower oil and sunflower seeds. Pilgrims having fun again making faces on the sunflowers 😂

      Iglesia de Santa Maria church in Belorado, built in 16th century.
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    • Dag 18

      Belorado evening

      5 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Walking around town, a visit to the church, scouting around for dinner spots.

      Our host Paul recommended the Pilgrim's meal at the local Albergue's restaurant (15€ for a starter, main course, desert and wine & water for the table). We ate with Tomas, from Black Forest region of Germany, Yona of the Faroe Islands. Great company.Meer informatie

    • Dag 19

      A short day, a slow day.

      6 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      We started the day with a wonderful breakfast at Pension Casa Wasala.. Paul asked us last night if we like eggs for breakfast. Yes of course! The only eggs we have seen have been hardboiled. Today, scrambled eggs, thinly sliced Spanish ham, bread, jam and yogurt with fruit. And a big carafe of hot coffee and cream! Heaven!

      Then we set off at a leisurely pace, under overcast skies and cooler temperatures. Today would have been a good day for a 20+ kilometer walk, like the last two days. But only 12 kilometers planned for today.

      We passed through 3 little villages today, mostly closed for business. The second Villambistia had an open cafe. While walking Bengt and Inga caught up with us, and we all stopped for coffee and snacks. They hare are done walking in Burgos this Fall, and going home to Sweden in a couple of days. And since they are walking to the next town, we will not see them again. So we said goodbye when they set off. (We hope to see you again in our travels,)

      We continued our slow walk an arrived at our Hotel in Villafranca Montes de Oca just as the sun was coming out!

      .
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    • Dag 25

      It's a long, long way to Santiago

      6 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      After a three night hibernation I braved the road to Santiago again. I had to book accommodation 22 km ahead because there were no private rooms in between and I'm not ready to spread my germs around yet.

      I walked about 12 km over rolling hills, through harvested fields and reached the land of sunflower fields. They are dry and dead but haven't yet been harvested for the seeds. They must have looked gorgeous a month or so back.

      I passed the end of the region of La Rioja and entered Castilla y Leon, the biggest region of Spain traversed by the Camino. When I leave it, 400km from now, I'll only have 150km to go to get to Santiago. But at the moment it's still a long long way to Santiago. The signage around here is a little unreliable. I must have seen signs saying roughly 565km to Santiago at least three or four times over the last 50km. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get under 550km.

      I taxied the last 10km to my hotel which isn't very exciting but allows me to stay away from people. They even fed me an early dinner so I won't feel guilty being in the restaurant at the same time as everyone else. The Camino was right next to the road as I zoomed past in the taxi and half of it was through road works so it was a good section to miss.

      Lots of people are talking about the great food I'm having and while I occasionally get some nice food the pilgrim meals available in most places aren't that inspiring. The most common entree is ensalada mixta which is mixed salad. This generally comes with egg and tuna but can be anything. It's a big serving of greens and you generally have to choose it if you want any salad/vegetables in your life. It can be delicious but is usually pretty average. Second course is some version of meat, usually fairly bland, with some version of potatoes, generally chips. Sometimes you get a small serve of capsicum as well, particularly with chicken, but no other vegetables in sight. Dessert is usually a piece of fruit or a cream caramel (flan) or egg custard (nutilla) or ice cream. Serving sizes are sufficient but not huge and while I'm not hungry afterwards I'm rarely full either.

      I'm sure if I had decent clothes to wear I could try some higher standard restaurants if I had the energy to stay up for dinner at 9 or 10pm. But you wouldn't be welcome there in pilgrim attire.

      There are lots of lovely treats and tapas around at times but not always when you're hungry.
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    • Dag 19

      Short Stretch of the Legs to Villafranco

      6 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      Cooler temps & clouds for our short walk today. As we said "adios" to Belorado we saw more beautiful murals walking out of the village.

      We passed by a big field of sunflowers that must have been in full bloom & beautiful a month ago. There were a few sunflowers that were still yellow.

      The Camino led us through 3 tiny villages all was very quiet & no churches were open.

      The leaves are starting to change colors here. Mostly yellow, but it made me miss home a little bit.

      Our hotel is pretty cool, it has some pretty nice sitting areas and decorating. It also has a walnut tree. I've never seen a walnut tree before! We have had a full range of nightly accommodations from 1-step above camping with no towels or soap, to lovely, sort of fancy accomodations with shampoo & bath gel.

      Out hotel serves a Pilgrim meal for dinner tonight. There's not much here in the town so we will most likely have a chance to catch up with friends from Texas & the French couple who shared figs with us yesterday. We have seen many familiar faces this afternoon as we all had time to catch up with email & social media in the sunny sitting places that the Hotel San Anton Abad has provided.
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    U kunt deze plaats misschien wel onder de volgende namen::

    Belorado, Bilforato, بيلورادو, Belfuratus, 09250, Белорадо, 贝洛拉多

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