Spain
Curbián

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    • Day 39

      Day 38, Gonzar to Ponte Compana

      June 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      I was really happy to be on the road again this morning at 7am on a bright but chilly day. I sent a lot of the heavier items from my rucksack on ahead in the hope that carrying a lighter bag would ease the pressure on my ankle. Armed with ibuprofen, Fiona and I set off with Anna in pretty perfect walking conditions. Our first stop was at a neglected but very intriguing archeological site at Castromaijor - the site of human habitation from the 4th century BC until the early Roman period. Only a small area appears to have been excavated and there was little explanation but it appeared that we were looking at homes and streets from almost 2 and a half thousand years ago.
      This was a day of gentle landscapes and happy livestock. We passed cattle calmly grazing and then I found myself fascinated to see them feeding as we passed through a village. We saw places where sheep could graze so safely that they appeared to be slumbering though the morning.
      Fiona went off in search of a Romanesque church which the guidebook warned was not always open, offering the advice that you should call Jesus first (number provided) to check whether you could get in. I knew for sure that an extra 4kms would not work for me so we split at this point. (Despite encouraging signage, unfortunately Fiona found the church closed).
      We met again in Palas de Rei, a reasonable sized town, where Anna managed to buy new underwear having mislaid hers a couple of days ago. Fiona and I stopped for a lovely cheese sandwich and then set off again for the final 5 kms.
      Before reaching our destination we stopped at a little artisan shop where we both bought Camino shell earrings. This was hardly the renunciation of worldly goods we thought we’d learned on the Camino - but I have always been sceptical of my ability to give up buying stuff once the opportunity arises again. The huge disincentive on the Camino is the added weight any new purchases would involve - who’s to say abstinence from material goods will have the same attraction when you no longer have to carry them on your back every day.
      Our accommodation tonight is lovely. It seems to be a former mill and is surrounded by water. Our room is charming with a multitude of hefty beams crisscrossing the ceiling and the whole site is beautifully presented.
      Dinner was also lovely. The vegetarian option was simple but really tasty and much appreciated. We spoke to two Australians (Rose and ?), an Italian vegetarian called Sylvia, Kim from California and Catherine from Montpellier.
      All in all, it’s been a lovely day. However, tonight I am worried about the ankle which is pretty sore. I walked 24.5kms today which in retrospect was too far. Tomorrow is just over 20kms - I will do the first 10 and then consider a taxi. I do wish I wasn’t finishing like this.
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    • Day 48

      To San Xulián

      May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Had to walk a k in the mist for breakfast coffee and bumped into Ngaire. Lots of coffee stops but yay few peregrinos. Why? Starting about 8ks ahead of the mass staying at Portmarin was good. And even with multiple coffee stops the blob never caught us. We're only 3.2k out of Palas de Rei ( the big stop) so maybe we'll get caught tomorrow.
      Highlights: misty morning; buying a round of soft white cheese from a woman through her kitchen window; mythic looking cow with huge horns (vaca cachina) , dogs and roses, bun with jamon and our cheese in a lovely park just before Pala de Rei, which was a bit average.
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    • Day 13

      Arrived in Ribadiso

      June 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      A long hot day today. My watch conked out at about 11 hours. It said around 20 miles at the time. But it was our last long day and the next two will be shorter. We are nine in the group and currently half of us are ill with coughs and colds 😒. It makes everything so much harder. Especially going up steep inclines in the afternoon sun. We are staying at a lovely albergue by the river here in Ribadiso. Two days to Santiago 😁Read more

    • Day 2

      Lugo to O Obrigadoiro

      October 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      An early start out of Lugo over to ancient Roman bridge other pilgrims are walking the primitivo and it feels like being on the Camino again is great after a day off. It stays dark for well over an hour and it adds to the ambiance.

      I'm able to stay on the primitivo for a good hour and that really helps out the navigating. After I get off I get lost into tiny little farm roads that led to incredible looking farms as the sun was rising it really was very cool way to see landscapes that you would never see in any other manner.

      I reached lagonda and was able to get on the terrace and start consuming cafes and one croissant. It was a productive time with The Inner Work. Eric and Mike show up and the fun begins. The whole terrace lights up with Eric recognizing the Israeli group and others. And after a few conversations and beers we set off. It's great to meet Mike.

      There is mix and match on the trail and a weird guy who hasn't slept in two days. Left arm extended he walks, runs, slows down and makes a bit of a scene. I'm not sure what is up with him.

      We reach Palas del Rei and settle into a fantastic restaurant for an incredible meal. Best one on the Camino. Another few km and e reach one of the jewels of albergues on the Camino. Fantastic everything. Eric is in heaven.

      A great new Camino day as I am in my wrap up stage and reconnecting with the Eric's energy on the Frances.
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    • Day 34

      Stage 31 - along the way

      May 5 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 12 °C

      Our route today was very up and down and through a lot of beautiful ancient woodland. There seemed to be fewer people on the trail today - possibly because of our later start or possibly because of the weather putting off the ‘new shoes’

      The river didn’t need to be waded across in the end (phew) and we had a lovely walk, including a stop into a church with an 8th century altar, a yummy lunch and meeting up with Dave from Seattle for tea and cake!
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    • Day 35

      Din din

      June 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

      Local cheese
      Veggie soup
      Chicken and salad
      Almond cake

    • Day 32

      Eukalytuswälder und St. Juan

      June 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Heute war ein recht schöner Tag zum Laufen, die Menschenmassen hielten sich in Grenzen, das Wetter war sonnig bis bewölkt, ab und zu kamen ein paar Regentropfen herunter. Bin heute durch Eukalyptuswälder gelaufen, der Duft war unglaublich, nur schöne Fotos konnte ich keine machen, da die Baumkronen so weit oben sind, dass man da nichts sieht. Ich werde morgen mein Glück erneut versuchen.

      Einziger Meckergrund heute: Ich wollte nur um die 10 km laufen, also habe ich eine Strecke mit 7,5 km gewählt, da die Streckenberechnungen hier eher großzügig sind. Heute wurde eine schöne Alternativstrecke angeboten, allerdings war die dann 14 km lang, das waren mir mit Rucksack dann doch 2 bis 3 km zu viel, am Schluss bin ich echt nur noch gekrochen.

      Heute wird es auch nichts mit dem früh ins Bett gehen, denn es wird St. Juan gefeiert, bis in die Nacht, mit Böller und vielen gegrillten Sardinen, Rotwein und überhaupt. Wir Pilger sind von der Dorfgemeinschaft A Calle eingeladen worden, bin echt gespannt und werde morgen berichten.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Curbián, Curbian

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