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    • Dag 6

      Zubiri

      20 april, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Just wrapped up our picturesque walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri—much easier on the legs today! 🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️ Settled into our spectacular accommodation for the night and already 2 Estrella beers deep. Here's to more stunning views and smooth trails ahead! 👣Meer informatie

    • Dag 8

      Rocesvalles to Zubiri

      21 juni 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      Today was test of our endurance. The mountains of the Pyrenees in our last two days were hard but we were starting with fresh legs. Today I started sore and it was a long 22 km hike through the foothills on what the boys dubbed the spine of the Pyrenees. Some kind of seismic uplift created a sideways shale spine of rocks which was our trail. I didn’t get a good picture of it but it was brutal on the feet. I just yearned for flat ground. Twenty two km isn’t easy but it’s even harder balancing on spikey rocks. But we did it and the waters of Zubiri was a great reward in the shadow of a 12th c. bridge. Our hostel is clean and new and has laundry with free soap so we couldn’t pass that chance up. The little yard has a clothesline for us to use.

      We kept leap-frogging with people we knew on the trail the whole way here. The first part of the hike was beautiful going through woods (one of the areas has a sign that said that it was called “witches woods” because 9 witches were burned at the stake there! Spooky!!!), little farm towns and playing with the cats who greeted us knowing that pilgrims often bring food and head rubs. Daniel was in Heaven. We bought lunch at a Mercado and I carried a grande baguette a few hours (it kept rubbing into low pine tree branches on the trail but don’t tell my people- what they don’t know won’t hurt them). We ate it at an outdoor restaurant with a few other familiar faces from the trail.

      Dinner was the ONLY restaurant in Zubiri but thankfully we got there before the crowd and got a table. We told the next wave of people (again- friends from the trail) to drink lots of beer because it was going to be a long wait. We ate off the pilgrim’s menu but thankfully we had some choices. I had paella and flan. The wine was a mere 2 euros a glass. Since we are early, Jon and the boys are playing cribbage in our little backyard with astroturf. (Btw, we keep running into a Korean mom and son who cook their food wherever they land! Tonight they are also in our albergue. They are carrying carrots and rice in their packs. Impressive!)
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    • Dag 9–10

      Enchanted forest walk

      14 mei, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

      Had a great walk today through multiple enchanted forests over many stepping stones leading over mountain creeks. Lots of moss and wildflowers and rocks and cute slugs and beautiful Norwegian spruce trees. Climbing up, walking down making our way through the woods and fields and hills and towns and around squishy mud bogs left by the rain last night. Stopping twice to get Cafe con leche and a snack in little village bars. Finally made it accross our last pass, then to Zubiri for the night. Had a lovely pilgrim's dinner at the albergi. Now time to pack and get ready to head to Pamplona tomorrow. Buenos noches!Meer informatie

    • Dag 2–3

      Day 2 to Zubiri

      7 mei, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Started at 8am. In light drizzle - walking in an enchanted forest... absolutely beautiful! Last 2 or 3 km's to Zubiri were incredibly slippery. Met an amazing woman, June - 72 years... and she walked my & Amanda's pace! We walk faster than most other people. Today was only 15km... so relatively easy. However the last 3km's were incredibly slippery and on rocks... the drizzle did not help.

      When we got to the aulberge, I made lentil & veg soup... and fed an extra few pilgrims.... June bought bread & fruit. And I met Helen, from Windhoek, currently living in Cape Town!
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 8

      End of roncessvalles to zubiri

      21 juni 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      I keep forgetting to start recording at the beginning of our hike. Oh well. This one is from tuesday, when we (most of us) were feeling pretty good. For a time, Ollie carried my pack and daniel carried two - his and Ollie’s — to try to help me overcome some feet and blister problems (and just keep up in general). Bless them.Meer informatie

    • Dag 6

      Hiking into the clouds- Orrison

      19 juni 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      We left our sweet little pension in St Jean and headed into the Pyrenees this morning. Wait- let me talk about the pension before I forget. Last night I went to sleep listening to the laughter and murmurs of the bar down the street and happy pilgrims about to begin their journey. I woke this morning to the sounds of pilgrims on their way down the street and at 7am when I set my alarm, the church bell drowned out my artificial ring tone- calling everyone in. Soon sounds of singing drifted down the street into our window. It was lovely.

      Last night was hot… remember… 108 degrees yesterday?! And Jon and I only had a window. The boys slept in the attic and had an air conditioner and when I went up to wake them up their room was actually chilly!!! At least THEY had a good night’s sleep.

      The heat wave broke today and although it is still very very humid, the temperature was suitable and an answer to my prayers. We left at 9am and the breezes from the mountains kept us moving higher. I could NOT have done today’s hike with yesterday’s temperatures. The Way provided.

      We are staying the night in an ancient shepherd’s house in an alburgue. There is a community meal tonight and we ordered sandwiches for our lunch tomorrow. I made all of these plans months ago at Christmas so it has been hard for me to remember what I planned which has been fun because it’s like a surprise for me!

      The community meal felt like a scene from an old epic poem. We all sat and ate as a community at the hearth of a large stone fireplace and everyone introduced themselves and explained why they were there. The conversation was really cool-listening to stories of people from all over. I sat by a young 20’s German kid who quit his job as an engineer for Mercedes’ Benz to live on a commune and teach yoga. The dinner was chicken soup and veggies with a basque cake. I was starving and it was delicious. Even Daniel ate his veggies!

      Oh also huge shout out to Jon for Fathers Day. I am grateful that he is willing to follow me on this crazy adventure! (And we really do make a good travel team- ask us to clean out the garage together and that’s a different story.)

      It didn’t rain today. Will the weatherman be wrong again tomorrow?!
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 7

      Orrison to Roncesvalles

      20 juni 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      There were no storms or rain today in the Pyrenees as the weatherman predicted but we did walk through the clouds.

      Breakfast was a small pilgrims breakfast of bread and jam. I think the boys had hoped for more. But we grabbed our sandwiches for lunch and took off up the mountain following the yellow arrows. Most of us were prepared with waterproof backpack covers but Jon sent his pack ahead with a courier because he was worried about his backpack getting soaked. He went with nostalgia when he chose his backpack because it’s the pack he had carried through Europe many times. He didn’t have a cover for his as a result like the rest of us. He enjoyed a pack-free hike today as a result.

      We climbed and climbed into the clouds- only seeing sunshine at the very top before heading back down on the other side. My hair and raincoat were soaked but everything else stayed dry. Along the way we could hear the baaa’s of sheep and mooo’s of cows and especially the eerie sounds of the low ringing from the bells they wore around their necks. We could only see them when they were very close because the fog was so thick but we knew they were around us.

      They trail was tough but as we climbed higher and higher there were safety stops for shelter in storms or for calling for help. I think many people have died en route (we saw a few memorials) and this is a modern solution. Wells for water are plentiful too. There was even a food truck in what seemed to be the middle of nowhere. It was on our map and a true landmark on the trail. We bought a mid morning granola bar from him and used his WC (a rock behind the truck) and got another stamp and felt refreshed for a few more hours of hiking.

      We made it to the old monastery in Roncesvalles by 1:30 and reunited with many of our Orisson friends. The alburgue is very old (end of 12th century) practical and clean. Extremely efficient. No shoes inside at all! We sleep in cubbies of 4 bunks in huge rooms. Each room holds 100 people. I used my Z-quill to sleep last night and it worked great so I think I’m going that route again tonight to drown out the snorers.

      We had a snack on the patio of fried food and beer while we waited for the room to open at 2pm and now await the evening meal by showering and taking an afternoon siesta. (We are in Spain by the way now.)

      Dinner was a 3 course meal (The hungry pilgrims were very pleased except for the poor vegetarian at our table). Again we sat with some fun Americans we roomed with last night in Orisson (one is a middle school math teacher) and a fun German woman we met in Orisson. I’ll be sad to lose them when we pass them up in Pamplona.

      Speaking of… I have heard rumors of fires driving pilgrims off the road near Pamplona. That could be the next obstacle.
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 3–4

      Espinal

      10 mei, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Wow! Today was the toughest day! We left Vacarlos on route to Roncesvalles It was a mountainous walk all the way 23degrees no breakfast as everything was still closed. We run out of water ( not funny) A whole string of emotions today but I made it! Suzy was brilliant supporting me all the way.Meer informatie

    • Dag 10

      Day 4 - Zubiri to Pamplona 🥵

      24 augustus 2023, Spanje ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

      The forecasted high in Pamplona today is 107° - so I thought the only way to survive was to start out early. Everyone walking to Pamplona today from my Albergue (Albergue Suseia - amazing!!) agreed to get up at 5am so we could start walking early. I was the only one… I had a quick breakfast and was on my way by 5:50 (I need to get faster in the morning!) I walked in the dark for the first hour, which was tough because the terrain was pretty challenging. There were still a lot of ups and down today - which is, I suppose, just the way this trail is going to be for a while (forever??) I can feel myself getting stronger. But the heat is really zapping. Even getting in around noon it was still really tough - well over 90° at that point. But two bits of good news: tonight’s albergue actually has air conditioning! And the temps are expected to cool significantly over the next few days. I toured the amazing cathedral, had drinks with friends, and am now relaxing before dinner. I’m about 67km in, so closing in on the 10% completion mark. Getting there - slowly, bit by bit, and step by step.Meer informatie

    • Dag 18

      Day 3 successful..22 kms and all’s well!

      14 april 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We are now in Zubiri, a small town you won’t find on a Google map, but we are in a delightful accommodation - a 1700s building, with wonderful wooden beams, and a charming hostess who greeted us.

      Set off from Roncesvalles quite early, Amr says before 9. It was rainy, as predicted, and we wore ponchos all day, even though it did stop occasionally, and even a ray of sunshine…but the rain has never been drenching - just sprinkling, but enough to get quite wet. Ponchos great, and body remains dry and warm! So today we descended down over the other side of the mountains. It was a gorgeous walk to start…a smooth easy path, through lovely countryside…we stopped for coffee/ColaCao and bought supplies to eat when we needed sustenance. It. Continued like this, undulating and just beautiful even though it drizzled on and off, and we were more than half way along and feeling that all was wonderful.

      Then, we came to the last 6 kms…this was the descent into Zubiri which is in the floor of the valley. (10 years ago we walked this, and arrived at Zubiri at 2pm, and I don’t remember it being difficult)…anyway, as we started the descent the path became quite hazardous - downhill with loose uneven stones, with ridges of the slate that is the solid base, mud, rivulets of water from all the rain and basically all the filling eroded…it took so long, watching every step and concentrating on not slipping or falling!! You’ve no idea how long walking a kilometre takes doing this!! Thank goodness for sticks. I think it was the rain over the last few days, plus that this is the end of winter and the melting snow etc…but the path wasn’t really a path. BUT we all survived, and were so SO happy to reach this town and walk on a footpath!

      And our accommodation is perfect. Lovely Maria welcomed us, our bags were here. There is a jacuzzi which Amr had (I didn’t have swimmers - one of the things eliminated when packing for carryon) and our room is absolutely charming. We arrived with 2 Aussies we have talked to on and off who are also staying here, and ended up having drinks and dinner with them. Very fun and comfortable. They are staying at the same hotel at Pamplona (tomorrow) but leave the next day, and we have a rest day there on Sunday, so we will prob get out of sync…

      So that is our day..the first real day of 20 kms + and I feel proud that while my bones were aching during the long descent, I feel less stiff now than the others…!! But photos will show the stunning scenery…and tomorrow it is predicted to rain in the morning, then clear up and Sunday sunny! Yay! Saving all the muddy clothes till we have walked tomorrow and Amr will find a laundromat in Pamplona!!
      Meer informatie

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