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    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      321
      Day 5

      Roncesvalles to Zubiri - part one

      March 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      A 22km stage today, optimistically framed by the gang as short and downhill, between Roncesvalles at 960m and industrial Zubiri at 520m. Got up at 5.45am once I heard the first toilet flush (I didn't have to try hard to hear it) as I figured that was the band-aid ripped off the peace.

      By 6.45am they were piping monastic chants through the PA to wriggle us on, they're very serious here. In the pod we had a laugh imagining the words of the unintelligible chant were "gettttttt outttttttt". With the ummmmming booming, I rounded a corner and nearly fell over a woman engaged in what with hindsight I recognise as yoga but at the time I truly suspected might be a possession in progress. She was bent at the elbows and knees to create like a table, with her torso and thighs as the top, and had her eyes closed. OUT (of my way) demon!

      On the road by 7am, which started with a truly lovely yet CRISP wander through dense woodland described in the literature as the home of "secret covens" in the 1500s, and when translated, named Oakwood of Witches. Excellent, all my love to the girls. While we're on the literature, I wasn't joking about the Charlemagne stuff, cop the attached page from the Camino bible.

      At one point the guy in jeans passed me, which was a good proof of life check for him as I did worry about his chafe and general health yesterday when I saw him leave SJPP. Every now and then someone with really swishy pants will come up behind me and I'm enraged by it by the time they stick the overtake, I can't imagine the cognitive dissonance it takes to put up with that all day.      Read more

    • MainelyStinaCamino de Santiago
      14
      Day 10

      Day 4 - Zubiri to Pamplona 🥵

      August 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

      The forecasted high in Pamplona today is 107° - so I thought the only way to survive was to start out early. Everyone walking to Pamplona today from my Albergue (Albergue Suseia - amazing!!) agreed to get up at 5am so we could start walking early. I was the only one… I had a quick breakfast and was on my way by 5:50 (I need to get faster in the morning!) I walked in the dark for the first hour, which was tough because the terrain was pretty challenging. There were still a lot of ups and down today - which is, I suppose, just the way this trail is going to be for a while (forever??) I can feel myself getting stronger. But the heat is really zapping. Even getting in around noon it was still really tough - well over 90° at that point. But two bits of good news: tonight’s albergue actually has air conditioning! And the temps are expected to cool significantly over the next few days. I toured the amazing cathedral, had drinks with friends, and am now relaxing before dinner. I’m about 67km in, so closing in on the 10% completion mark. Getting there - slowly, bit by bit, and step by step.Read more

    • Andreas HellwigCamino Frances 2022
      1
      Day 6

      Tag 6 von Zubiri nach Pamplona

      May 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Der heutige Tag war sehr gut . Schönes Wetter tolle Wege und nette Menschen. Vor allem die Ältere Dame in der Kirche auf dem alten Jakobsweg hat mich beeindruckt. Sie hat mich umarmt und mir Buen Camino gewünscht. Das sind genau die Momente die einem in erinnerung bleiben. Ich habe nur gemerkt das Pamplona echt Gross und laut ist . Heute ist natürlich auch Samstag und da sind hier irgendwie alle am Feiern. Ich für meinen Teil bin ziemlich müde. Morgen geht's nach Puente de la Reina. Bin gespannt . Das sind wieder 24 km und die Strecke ist ziemlich anspruchsvoll. Aber das schaffe ich schon.Read more

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    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      Day 4

      Made it to Pamplona

      April 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      41 miles done… 459 to go. Walk was much easier than the first two days, though my calves were really feeling it after so many accumulated miles. This afternoon was dedicated to indulging myself: a whole pizza was devoured, I had a salt foot bath and feet and calves massage, I visited and toured the cathedral, and I imbibed with an old fashioned while people watching in the square. Tonight, I further indulged with scallops, sirloin, and local wine. And now, I plan to sleep for hours and hours in recovery from both the physical exhaustion and the meat sweats. Day of sightseeing tomorrow and then back on the Camino journey!Read more

    • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
      Day 18

      Day 3 successful..22 kms and all’s well!

      April 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We are now in Zubiri, a small town you won’t find on a Google map, but we are in a delightful accommodation - a 1700s building, with wonderful wooden beams, and a charming hostess who greeted us.

      Set off from Roncesvalles quite early, Amr says before 9. It was rainy, as predicted, and we wore ponchos all day, even though it did stop occasionally, and even a ray of sunshine…but the rain has never been drenching - just sprinkling, but enough to get quite wet. Ponchos great, and body remains dry and warm! So today we descended down over the other side of the mountains. It was a gorgeous walk to start…a smooth easy path, through lovely countryside…we stopped for coffee/ColaCao and bought supplies to eat when we needed sustenance. It. Continued like this, undulating and just beautiful even though it drizzled on and off, and we were more than half way along and feeling that all was wonderful.

      Then, we came to the last 6 kms…this was the descent into Zubiri which is in the floor of the valley. (10 years ago we walked this, and arrived at Zubiri at 2pm, and I don’t remember it being difficult)…anyway, as we started the descent the path became quite hazardous - downhill with loose uneven stones, with ridges of the slate that is the solid base, mud, rivulets of water from all the rain and basically all the filling eroded…it took so long, watching every step and concentrating on not slipping or falling!! You’ve no idea how long walking a kilometre takes doing this!! Thank goodness for sticks. I think it was the rain over the last few days, plus that this is the end of winter and the melting snow etc…but the path wasn’t really a path. BUT we all survived, and were so SO happy to reach this town and walk on a footpath!

      And our accommodation is perfect. Lovely Maria welcomed us, our bags were here. There is a jacuzzi which Amr had (I didn’t have swimmers - one of the things eliminated when packing for carryon) and our room is absolutely charming. We arrived with 2 Aussies we have talked to on and off who are also staying here, and ended up having drinks and dinner with them. Very fun and comfortable. They are staying at the same hotel at Pamplona (tomorrow) but leave the next day, and we have a rest day there on Sunday, so we will prob get out of sync…

      So that is our day..the first real day of 20 kms + and I feel proud that while my bones were aching during the long descent, I feel less stiff now than the others…!! But photos will show the stunning scenery…and tomorrow it is predicted to rain in the morning, then clear up and Sunday sunny! Yay! Saving all the muddy clothes till we have walked tomorrow and Amr will find a laundromat in Pamplona!!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Frances
      Day 3

      Zwischenstop Zubiri bei 33 C im Schatten

      August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Hui- das war heftig! 24 Km steil auf und ab in einer wunderschönen Kiefernwaldlandschaft! Aber am Ende wurden die Wege auch noch super geröllig- Bänderrrrissss -Potential! Jetzt erst mal Flüssigkeit und Energie in Form einer Tortilla nachlegen! Hape Kerkeling hat hier gestoppt- ich lauf noch ein wenig! Ist ja erst 13 UhrRead more

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    • Barb and AlanSpain 2023
      1
      Day 6

      To Zubiri

      September 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      Alan’s foot passed a major test today in walking 13.6 miles to Zubiri - WOoHOO! We left in the dark at 6:30 am and after taking our time and stopping a few times for some nice breaks, we arrived to our room at Casa Rural Txantxorena around 3:00.

      It was a long day of hiking, and the descent down to Zubiri was comically steep on rocks and the uplifted rock layers that protruded straight up out of the ground like a dragon’s backbone. 🐉 Every time we turned a corner it somehow got worse. My right foot was cramping by the end from tiredness and probably needing more fluids. Every time I would drink a bottle, I would just sweat it all out 😂🥵

      Our room is in an old house from the 1600’s and it is gorgeous! I’ll post a few pictures. Right now, as I’m writing this, we have the window open to the balcony and I can hear the bells clanging on the horses’ necks off in the distance. The woman who owns the house did all of our laundry, saving us some hand washing time. And we were able to sit under some umbrellas and visit for a long time with some nice guys from the UK and the USA.

      Alan and I are really trying to remember the names of all the people we have met and where they are from. I’ve resorted to making a list because, since it’s a bit busier with pilgrims compared to five years ago, we are encountering so many! 🙂      Read more

    • TravelerJakobsweg 2022
      1
      Day 4

      Etappe 2 - Zubiri

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Nachdem wir unsere Betten bezogen haben und die Wäsche gewaschen und aufgehangen ist, kann ein kurzer Rückblick erfolgen.
      Wir haben heute ca. 26 km bewältigt. Landschaftlich nicht ganz so interessant wie gestern. Heute morgen ging es kurz nach halb sieben los. Bei Dunkelheit mussten wir unseren Weg finden. Ein junger Slowene hat uns nicht nur den Weg erleuchtet, sondern wir haben lange den Weg gemeinsam begangen und uns gut über Landwirtschaft in Slowenien ausgetauscht, denn seine Eltern betreiben einen Landwirtschaftsbetrieb .
      Frühstück gab es in einer kleinen Gaststätte am Wegesrand. In Borguette standen wir dann vor dem Café in welchen noch von Ernest Hemingway das Originalklavier steht. Leider war noch nicht geöffnet, sodass wir nicht besichtigen konnten.
      Der übrige Weg war wenig spektakulär und teilweise schlecht zu begehen. Die Samaria Schlucht auf Kreta war dagegen ein Kinderspiel.
      Der letzte Abstieg nach Zubiri hatte es dann nochmals in sich. Ich hatte mit meinem angegriffenen Knie heute erneut Probleme, Günter ging es dagegen besser. Er war mir immer einige Schritte voraus.
      Jetzt sitzen wir gemütlich bei Essen und Bier in Zubiri und lassen den Tag Revue passieren.
      Morgen geht es nach Pamplona. Dort werden wir eventuell einen Tag bleiben. Mal sehen was der morgige Tag bringt.
      Fazit des Tages: trotz Schmerzen im Knie die Etappe geschafft. Manchmal muss man über seine Grenzen gehen.
      Ultreia      Read more

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    • TravelerCamino
      Day 5

      Day 6 - Zubiri

      May 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      If yesterday’s hike could be compared to watching scenes from “The Sound of Music” today’s jaunt would mirror “The Bridges of Madison County.” We’ve encountered every type of terrain: grass, dirt road, asphalt, concrete, cobblestone, eroded mountainside with sharp, protruding rocks, mud with leaves up to our knees, makeshift bridges made of rock. Even though we still did a fair bit of climbing today, today’s route was considerably more level than yesterday. Much of today had us walking through the forest, perched on a mountainside, with tree branches canopied over the trail. Overall, it was a gentle, delightful walk. Despite very similar distances, I did yesterday’s walk in 7 hours while it took me 5 hours today.. In fact, if I had not had a booked hotel in Zuniri, I would have walked another 5-10 kms to get closer to Pamplona.
      We’re like a cohort here, frequently crossing paths with the same people even though there are hundreds of us. I met two Irish girls today who were at my hotel in St. Jean, and have frequently encountered them on the trail, I’ve become good friends with a couple from Nashville who I met at the airport in Biarritz, and we’ve gotten together a number of times. I’ve met a couple from Lake Tahoe, California who are avid hikers and they met through their hiking club Tahoe. I’ve met Paul from England who shared his story of five finger shoes and how it helped him combat plantar fasciitis (I’ve included a photo of his shoes). I spent two hours today talking to an HR person from Melbourne who had great stories of his company travels all over the world. He did the Camino 10 years ago, but did not finish it. I’m unsure of his age but I suspect he’s on the shady side of 70.
      He asked me to join him for coffee but I declined because stopping for even short periods, causes my muscles to seize up. Today , I overdosed on magnesium, electrolytes, and water to avert cramping- no cramps today.
      So, I’ve been in Zubiri since 12:30 walking around a bit. Much of the economy, here too, appears to revolve around the Camino. I have no idea how large it is, but it is filled with cyclists. I’m sure at 20 groups of 4-10 cyclists have zipped by in front of our hotel.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago - Frances
      1
      Day 6

      Zubiri

      September 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      After a couple of days of climbing we were looking forward to less vertical. We got that today with only about 1500’ of climbing but the temps were much higher. I will say the ice cold lemon soda we got from a roadside trailer with umbrellas and tables was a lifeline, setting us up for the last three miles of the day.

      So far the hiking here has been amazing. It is a great combination of trails through the beautiful countryside and a little road walking through the coolest villages. And once you get to town, you get to spend the evening with all the great people you met during the day.

      Tomorrow we are off to Pamplona; a regional city. Should be a fun day.      Read more

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