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Espagne
Estépar

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    • VoyageurCress on the Camino Francés 24
      1
      Jour 16

      First day on the meseta

      6 juin, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      Which for those of you who don't know, is the enormous plateau that covers most of central Spain, from La Mancha south of Madrid to the mountains just north of us here. In my experience it is either baking hot like today or very cold in Winter.
      As there has been so much rain the poppies, thistles and other wild flowers are stunning.
      We are staying in a hostel Fiona knows from last year in a sleepy village that has the good fortune to sit on the path to Santiago, and is making the most of it by catering to pilgrims. There's a man in a small shop across the road selling tiny shampoos, suncreams, blister stuff, and food in small packets as well as making nice sandwiches.      En savoir plus

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    • VoyageurEl Camino de Santiago
      Jour 23

      Burgos Cathedral

      28 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      As I shuffled into the city of Burgos like Tim Conway on the Carol Burnett show.

      See video of Tim Conway….
      https://youtu.be/9oORj6nHc4E?si=FbAK9C2HCLHTOyzK

      As I approached my hotel I knew I was about to walk past the Cathedral. I knew I had only so much energy and so I opted to take pictures from the outside and vow to return someday to see the inside.

      I looked at my pictures and they don’t do the Building justice. Regardless take my word for it. It is massive and impressive ! I enjoyed gazing at it in the day and night time.

      A picture of me shuffling through Burgos on the way to my hotel being guided by yellow arrows. Also some Torrenzos before dinner.      En savoir plus

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    • VoyageurCamino de nuevo
      1
      Jour 17

      Hornillos to Castrojeriz (not San Anton)

      7 juin, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Very warm night and as we were anticipating another very warm day we left at 6 to try to make some progress while it was still coolish.
      First part of the walk was in the dark then gradually it got lighter, revealing the beautiful vista of the meseta.
      Awesome landscapes with fabulous flowers. Definitely one of my favourite places on the camino.
      Found coffee after about 9k - Albergue Fuente Sidres a couple of kilometres before Hontanas (only saying this to remind myself that it might be a good place to stay another time - think Caroline and I thought this too last time but I’d forgotten it). Delicious tortilla.
      Had a quick second coffee at Santa Brígida in Hontanas (also need to remember this is good and has a spa!) then on to San Anton (ruined abbey c14) where I was hoping to stay.
      A sudden shower of rain necessitated rain kit for the first time which was a pain but my poncho is good and it didn’t last long so stripped it off quickly as it was too hot to walk in a waterproof.
      Arrived at San Anton around 10.30 but unlike last year there were no drinks to buy and no hospitaleros around. It had a very different vibe and to be honest there were a lot of bugs so although it was great to look around and take a break, we decided to move on to Castrojeriz.
      On the way into Hontanas we had seen a sign advertising an albergue with a meditation room, zen garden and vegetarian meal. It didn’t include a contact number but I managed to find it on the wise pilgrim app and sent a WhatsApp to see if they had 2 beds available. It only takes 4 people but they replied immediately to say yes (as long as we get the vibe!! No alcohol or smoking and limited phone use!) can do most of that so walked on to Castrojeriz and are now installed in the meditation room which has tatami mat beds. Currently sitting in the zen garden (still very hot so not so zen atm) but it seems lovely and will certainly be interesting. Meditation at 6 and dinner at 7.
      After arriving went off to find some lunch and as recommended by our hospitalero went to local organic cafe and had a delicious tostada with tomato, cucumber, avocado and herbs. Found horse of the day there too.
      Then a much needed shower and the usual washing and now planning chill out session somewhere cool if possible. It’s still really hot and humid. Also need to charge my phone - not sure if that will be controversial or not!
      Managed to charge phone while having a siesta. Clothes dried in hot wind in the garden. Went for a wander ‘sin rumbo’ and found delicious cherries and a vegan banana muffin tho thing for breakfast tomorrow so all good.
      Meditation was good - mostly in Spanish with a bit of explanation where necessary but also mostly in silence. Then dinner. A delicious lentil salad thing with tomatoes, garlic and dill and a warm cous cous dish with raisins, sunflower seeds, carrot strips, dried apricots, peppers and some spices. Sat and chatted with our room mate Manuelo from Barcelona and drank his ginger tea and ate my strange vegan chocolate from Bulgaria (flavoured with cardamom, lemon and ginger - delicious but strange).
      Now time for bed in the meditation room with meditative music still playing (we’re not sure how to turn it off!!)      En savoir plus

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    • VoyageurCamino de Santiago
      Jour 20

      Day 18 - To Hornillos

      26 septembre 2022, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Day 18 - To Hornillos
      (pr. Horneos)
      21 kms; Difficulty 2/3

      Today was a VERY interesting day.

      I travelled through a small village and saw a little church that I decided to stop at. There was a nun there who gave everyone a miraculous medal around their neck, put her hands on our shoulders and said a prayer. I don’t know what it was about that little church, but many people became quite emotional when inside. This nun was from the St. Vincent de Paul order who are committed to serving the poor. She told us the story of how she became a nun.
      Many years ago, on this one particular day, she was in Paris with friends. She got separated from them and got lost. She saw a “shrine” and went in, prayed, and asked herself what she should do with her life. She heard a voice tell her that she should join the St. Vincent de Paul order. And so she did. That was 40 years ago! And she has been serving ever since.

      A couple days ago I was phoning around looking for a place to stay at Hornillos. At one hotel I talked to a man named Samuel. He told me if I couldn’t find a place to call him back and he would see what he could do. So I called him back. He set me up at a place about 10 km out of town called El Molino, his parent’s place which is usually closed down but they were willing to open it up for desperate pilgrims. When I got into town I went to see Samuel and he called someone to come and pick me up. By then there was several others that had joined the group to go out there. While I was waiting for the ride I saw a picture on his wall about the movie “The Way” and he proceeded to tell me this story:
      In 2003 Martin Sheen, and Emilio‘s son Taylor did the Camino Trail. I read that they did it by car, I guess because they only had two weeks.
      It turned out that they stayed at El Molino. Taylor and Samuel's sister met, fell in love and eventually got married.
      In 2009 they all went back to Spain for Taylor‘s wedding and stayed to shoot the movie. Samuel told me they shot scenes of the movie at El Molino and a man by the name of Maxi, who was also in the movie, is still at El Molino. So I was anxious to get there and check it out.
      El Molino is a BIG beautiful place that kind of reminds me of the plantation homes in the southern states. I can tell it was an active Albergue at one time, still beautiful, but becoming rundown. Samuel‘s parents live in Burgos and I guess they have Maxi looking after it. I took many pictures and when I have the chance I will watch the movie again to see if I can recognize any parts of El Molino!
      Photo of Samuel and you’ll see a picture of the movie on the wall. If you zoom in you will see it signed by Martin Sheen in 2011.
      You can see Maxi in the bottom left corner of the last picture.      En savoir plus

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    • Camino 2023
      1
      111
      Jour 15

      Day 11- Jaunt to Castrojeriz 20km/12.4m

      10 octobre 2023, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

      After an incredible gift from the Camino last night, we were up at 6:45 am and out the door by 7:30 am to begin our trek over the ancient Meseta.

      As hot as it was yesterday afternoon, it was that cold this morning (43 degrees). We had our cold gear on for the first time. (Joan left her puffy coat in Pamplona, so out came the raincoat- with tag still on it). It was an invigorating way to begin the day.

      Only two cities / stops / rest on our 20km hike today, but both were traditional Camino medieval towns with rich histories.

      We stopped mid-day (10km in) for lunch in Hontanas, our only rest of the day. Joanie got her watermelon and it was a good stop all around. We are getting to know some of the new pilgrims on this leg.

      After Hontanas, we emerged from the dusty hot, gravel roads to the San Anton Monastery and their ancient ruins. We could have stopped and slept outdoors under the stars with no electricity, but Kenzie suggested a 5 star Spa and relaxation resort and we hoofed another 5km to Castrojeriz and our 5 -star resort.

      We could see the next city, Castrojeriz, their beautiful church and the castle ruins high up on the hill, and those last 5km were hard.

      We came in hot, dirty, dusty and with very sore feet. Luckily Mackenzie’s recommendation did not disappoint and we limped into a desert oasis. Our first stop was the cold water foot plunge and cerveza’s. We finally had a proper siesta and a wonderful dinner with local wine.

      We are now so tired, waiting on our clothes to dry 9:30 pm. Tomorrow we train to Leon (45 min) to explore the city. We are cutting two days of the desert Meseta. We end with 13+ days of consecutive walking to Santiago . We still have 309km / 192 miles from Leon to Santiago. We believe we are halfway. Buen Camino!      En savoir plus

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    • 202404 El Camino De Santiago
      Jour 16

      Vaya noche!

      5 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Hornillos del Camino es un pueblo con 58 habitantes. Quién me iba a decir que pasaría una noche tan divertida. Paseando por la calle me encontré con Omar, un Senegales que regenta un restaurante en el pueblo (solo hay 2, aparte de los 3 o 4 albergues). Así que me fui a cenar allí. Me sentó en la mesa con David, un chico americano de Austin, Texas. Y además de la comida de Senegal, disfrutamos de un espectáculo de música en directo con música pop y óperas. Divertidísimo y surrealista todo.En savoir plus

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    • Camino 2023
      11111
      Jour 14

      Day 10- Hiking the Meseta to Hornillos

      9 octobre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      We left Burgos while dark and walked along the river beside the cathedral and old town. The city was coming alive with bikers and pedestrians all headed to work. There was a nip in the air and it was the coldest morning so far on the trip. It made the first portion of our walk go by very quickly and before we knew it we were at a cafe having our first cup of coffee. It was a big morning to use Julie’s knife, that she bought in SJPP, and we cut up an apple and had it with some nuts we picked up on our hike around the city yesterday.

      Properly fueled we were on our way and headed for our final destination of Hornillos - 22km (13+ miles) away.

      Along our hike we encountered our THE best place for lunch we have found so far. Fried eggs, chorizo, leafy green salad and all around perfect brunch and our halfway point of 10km. Joan literally moaned as she finally had her beloved salad. Outside of the black flies, and the hot, hot unseasonably warm weather it was one of our best stops yet.

      The terrain has changed. We have entered the Meseta, the high plains desert of Northern Spain. The sun is beating upon us. It is dusty with little shade. While we don’t have extreme inclines and declines of the past week, the monotonous never ending gravel road is just as taxing on our bodies as the mountains were.

      For the first time on our journey we did not plan for the night’s accommodations. We thought, “let’s be pilgrims” and see how far we can go. We made the full stage, but the inns were full and left us with only Albergues had room. We found a private room, clean switch a bathroom - a far cry from our luxury hotels. But for tonight it was just perfect.

      After a quick shower, we went to the common area outside our Albergue where we could wash our clothes with a course bar of soap. It smelled fantastic- lemony and Joan bought two beers to help us with our chores. We literally scrubbed our clothes like peasant women by the river.

      Once our work was done we hit the town. We walked the village in search of a cocktail. We found the church, town square and saw that mass was starting in 10 min (6pm) and we attended. As our earlier church experience, it was an absolute blessing. The priest brought all pilgrims to the front of the church. We said prayers and sang songs in our languages and we were blessed with holy water. Another moving experience on our pilgrimage.

      We left church following other pilgrims and walked into a bar/restaurant which had live music and a pilgrim dinner. The bartender spoke English and called himself “Mr fix-it” and we sat down with a beer and started to unwind. We asked what was for dinner and he asked us to “trust him”. As we were waiting for dinner, the musicians began to play. And oh my goodness were we surprised. One a tenor and one a jazz musician- blew us away.

      Joanie got another salad, and Julie her chicken wings and rice. Three pilgrims joined us- two sisters from France and a young man from Germany. It was a magical evening. It truly represented the spirit of the Camino.

      Tomorrow we are off on another 20km. We have a spa booked and going bougie…Buen Camino!      En savoir plus

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    • VoyageurA Camino to Remember
      22
      Jour 19

      Catrojeriz

      6 octobre 2023, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

      Today we left Hornillos in the dark and walked to Castrojeriz. The walk was mostly flat and through agricultural lands where wheat is typically grown although we didn’t see any wheat until the end of the walk. Tomorrow’s a rest day for us so I will write more about this place, but it is really beautiful. There’s a big hill above the town with a crumbling castle on it.

      People here have been very nice. We’re looking forward to checking out the church tomorrow.

      And they have a farmacia! Although David is pretty healthy now, I’m a week past my COVID positive test and still struggling with congestion and cough and very scant voice. We’re doing well with our walking (although any hills have me wondering “is it always this hard to clim a hill???”) but in the afternoons I’ve been napping. I guess my body just needs the extra down time.

      It’s funny (in a great way) how now that we’ve settled into a routine, David’s cognitive challenges are basically just what they are at home. He gets a little confused about where we are and has trouble making decisions. But he now pretty much seems like his old self. I can’t say enough good things about predictable routines. As long as David kind of knows what to expect, he seems engaged and having fun.’ Our first few days on this trip he was so confused that I feared I had broken some abilities that work well for him by bringing him here. But it’s been a very pleasant surprise to see him rally, adjust, and thrive in this new place! I’m so glad we are able to do this together!

      Also we have been discussing the role of religion and our spiritual beliefs a lot on this trip, something we rarely talk about. I believe in a creator and in the mystery of “everything,” where David is more accepting of the teachings of his Lutheran upbringing. Anyway, one of the things I’m pretty skeptical about is the power of prayer. However, I know a lot of people are praying for us now, and I don’t know if that too is helping, but I’m very grateful fair our friends and family members who are praying for us.      En savoir plus

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    • VoyageurAlwaysonanadventure
      111
      Jour 24

      Hornillos

      18 mai, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Day 16 Hornillos
      Distance from Burgos to Hornillos 24kms

      Camino Part 2/3 - ‘Mind’.
      Having completed Part 1 of the Camino - ‘Physical’ we were about to start Part 2 and walk the Meseta (plateau)
      with its relentless kilometers of wheat and oats and not much else for several days. We were ready.
      The sun was shining and as we were leaving Burgos were fortunate to spy a pair of storks high up on a monument feeding their young.
      We came upon a tiny chapel with a nun in attendance and as we entered were given a necklace (our shield and strength along the way) and a blessing. The nun was so small in stature but so great in her faith.
      What a beautiful day it has been walking in such a peaceful setting passing sheep with a shepherd watching over his flock before we stopped for a picnic lunch. The winding path continued but it was flat and we set a good pace.
      Hornillos our village for the night is small with many homes abandoned and mud houses still standing some decaying. After checking into our albergue we took a walk around the village and came upon some hobbiton like dwellings and cute cottages.
      We loved the first day of the Meseta.      En savoir plus

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    • Kathie Lassos the MoonCamino de Santiago

      Hornillos & Beginning of the Meseta

      13 septembre 2022, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      Leaving Burgos we traveled with a few new women who have been also traveling solo.

      We saw a gentleman from Ireland traveling alone, and quite confused—this was his first day on the Camino, as he is starting from Burgos. We helped Simon learn how to spot “ the way” out of Burgos. But I must say, Burgos is terribly marked—or should I say not marked much at all! Simon seemed happy to have a cadre of pilgrims to follow.

      After 5 hours, 15 miles, and one big hill later we are at our Albergue for the night.

      Tomorrow we begin the Meseta. Meseta is a part of Spain known among pilgrims for its wide skies, dry heat, and flat lands. It is
      180 km some say 220 km, some have no idea! There is very little to see. It is important to carry more water than usual. And it is important to be prepared for heat, sun, and rain.

      Speaking of rain, we are having an incredible storm now. Praying pilgrims are not walking in it! ⛈

      I’m off to have a beverage, and dinner after washing the sweat, dust, and dirt from my clothes and me!

      Feeling better today. How wonderful it was to have a rest day yesterday! Soaking in a hot bathtub two days in a row was a true luxury!

      Tomorrow I am off to Castrojeriz, 20.1 klicks.

      Can you find the shell or yellow arrows? Some signs are more obvious than others, but not most.

      Blessings to all who read this! ✝️💜      En savoir plus

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