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    • Camino de Santiago (Frances)
      1
      12
      Day 27

      Day 18-Hornillos del Camino

      September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      What a lovely day! It was cold this morning so we didn't start walking until after 9am. It was sunny and there was little shade, but a constant cool breeze made it enjoyable.

      We stopped for coffee in Tardajos and I ended up sparking a lively conversation about tortilla de patatas among four local women. It wasn't the usual "with or without onions" debate. It got into "not everyone makes good tortilla", to the right type of potato to use, to how to beat the eggs properly. We found Tardajos to be an extremely friendly town. Several older gentlemen stopped us to talk as we walked through town.

      As we were walking down the hill into Hornillos, we heard explosions and saw smoke in the air. We were hoping it wasn't another Civil War. When we checked in, we found out that there was a wedding in the plaza (we could hear the music) and they were responsible for the fireworks. We tried to crash the wedding but we were woefully underdressed. But not as underdressed as the German guy wandering the street in his boxers!

      We chatted and dined with a Hungarian lady who started her Camino today in Burgos. 13 years ago she walked St. Jean to Burgos. We also dined with a couple we've been with since Quintanilla. We seem to stay at the same places. They recently moved from California to Georgia.

      We ended up walking 14.5 miles today. Tomorrow might be slightly shorter.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      1
      Day 18

      Burgos to Hontanas - part two

      April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      The Meseta is a plateau, which means it's wide and flat. There's no shade, towns are more spaced out, and if one isn't close you know that for a fact, because you can see for miles. I can imagine in summer, that's all a bit hard. Today, it was clear, still and cool. Sun warming my hair but puffer on. Perfect walking weather, if less than optimal covert pee terrain.

      After stopping for a coffee in Tajardos, a coke in Hornillos (the traditional end point of today's stage) and Oreos on the side of the trail twice, I had four kilometres to go and was starting to count down. I was also really hungry and hoping to catch lunch before this 2-5pm shut down everywhere has. So I put my foot down and turned in 11-minute kilometres but still rolled in after two.

      I was resigned to eating something at the bar when I saw Rusty, both buckled and buckling up, outside a restaurant. He asked if I'd eaten, and told me he'd just had the best meal of his whole Camino including quite a lot of wine, and what's more they were serving for another hour! See separate post about that but spoiler alert, I agree.

      I got to check in to my albergue all in Italian, again, I wonder if it's common or I'm just finding every Italian hospitalero there is. My Spanish really stands no chance when I'm speaking its sister tongue so much but I am improving slowly.

      Today was one of my favourites of the whole trip and the idea that it nearly didn't happen almost stops my heart. Of course every day, every moment of our lives is a miracle of coincidence, but it's too much to imagine so I, like you probably, tend to think of a plan and unplan binary. Today was unplanned. It could have gone in so many directions, ended in so many towns. But it's wound up here. And how lucky I am for it.      Read more

    • TravelerCal’s Camino Adventures
      2
      Day 16

      Day 16

      September 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      I was awake pretty early this morning, I admit I was a little worried that I may have had a bit of a headache as two glasses of red wine is usually my limit 😬… no headache.. result!!
      Breakfast eaten.. It was time to head off…
      There were no worries this morning regarding the route as my accommodation was literally on it.
      It was lovely for walking first thing, no wind today meant it wasn’t quite so chilly.. it was a really enjoyable walk today which surprised me as I wasn’t expecting it to be with not much in the way of hills.. a few long gradual climbs saving the day 😂
      I went passed a guy really tramping on with his sticks ( very popular, can’t believe how many people use them ), when he suddenly came running up along side me to check if I was doing the marathon!! I assured him I wasn’t, he seemed relieved as he just said “very good, very good “.. I think it was a couple of Km’s and my taking a few photos before he believed me and settled back down to his own rhythm.. I also passed Ben and Chloe from last night and after a few words I got a hug from Chloe, discussing the difficulties of being a girl and needing a wee on route last night obviously brought us closer 😀
      One thing I have found amazing so far are the clouds.. I keep finding myself taking numerous pictures of them, they’re fantastic.
      I finished today in Castrojeriz, which is absolutely beautiful, but is like a ghost town, there are no people!!!! AND everywhere was closed, I think one bar and a shop were all that seemed to be open, and even the bar shut at lunchtime… by the time I had my evening meal, breakfast seemed like an age ago and I was seriously hungry!
      With everywhere closed and nothing much to do this afternoon I really wanted to sit down with a book! A proper paper book! No room in the bag, ..I hadn’t brought one .. then i remembered slipping my iPad mini down the side of my bag.. not paper, but it did have my kindle app on it, which was definitely better than nothing.
      Much to Steve’s irritation, I have absolutely no problem reading and re reading books I enjoy.. so what was it to be.. Jane Eyre or Wuthering Heights??… toss of a coin decided and Wuthering Heights it was. So I had a really relaxing and guilt free afternoon reading….
      Dinner this evening was fabulous.. but i was VERY hungry…they’d gone out of their way to make an alternative for me as everything that was on this evening’s menu contained meat.. so appreciated.
      I’m feeling pretty sleepy this evening, which is bizarre, as it was a shorter walk today and my spare time was spent lying on the bed reading!!
      Despite my fab meal, I’m already looking forward to breakfast!!!!😂      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Francés 2022
      2
      Day 13

      Hornillos del Camino

      August 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      This is my destination today. A very small village, I have a feeling that this is one of those places that pilgrims keep alive. The only visible commercial activities are a few albergues and basic food supplies.
      I am staying at El Alfar de Hornillos, a small private albergue, nice and quiet with very helpful hosts. Not quite the level of Belorado, but also has a swimming pool 😂      Read more

    • Camino de Santiago
      Day 24

      8.5 kms to Cafe Fuente Sidres

      October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      An early start today , as we needed to be out of the Albergue before 8 AM, So a 7:50 walk through the dark streets if town, past the church. And a long gradual climb to the Meseta. We have met Susan from Australia who walked with us all morning.

      Found an Albergue and cafe open outside of of the next town for a late morning coffee.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Santiago de Compostella
      Day 19

      Hornillos del Camino

      June 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      Bwuee between wwwwell fffolks wez made it here. Me, myself and I and my pics y ampulles

      Within reasons I still feel them (one day rest technically is not enough to heal) but I moved along fine in the sandals

      20 klicks..kicks... Did a good chunk of it in the morning with cooler temperatures (it did rain last night, Thanks be to GOD)

      Attended Pilgrims Mass tonight with was awesome      Read more

    • TravelerCamino
      131122
      Day 25

      Burgos to Hornillos de Camino

      September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Today we were up early and left Burgos in the dark at 7 am. I had a terrible night's sleep so it all seemed a bit of an effort and my legs and feet seem to take on a life of their own! It didn't take long though for the cool morning air to wake me up and it was a much prettier exit from Burgos then the entrance. We passed the beautiful Cathedral and then on past the University and leafy suburbs
      Unfortunately we had thought we would find a cafe in the outer suburbs of Burgos for breakfast but that was not meant to be. Finally after 11km of walking we came to Tardajos where the coffee was good and the croissants were even better. All was well with the world!
      We carried on and met a young english chap carrying a gnome on the walk. We wished him luck. It's tough enough with a pack on your back. We think we have seen the last of Barrett who biked gaily past us in his kilt so we were slightly sad to wave farewell.
      After passing through another village we came across a dear wee church where we popped out heads into. Inside were 2 nuns who were blessing everyone and gave us tiny St Christopher pendants. It was all quite a surprise.
      On we walked with blue blue skies and freshly harvested cereal crops with windmills topping the hills and then a gradual long climb to the official beginning of the Meseta. The Meseta is the high central plateau in Spain and the soil is poor and the landscape is barren but there is something quite grand about the expansive views you get and the big sky. There is not much shade but luckily there was a breeze.
      At about 1.30pm we walked into the one street town and all we can hear is the odd chime of the church bells and the usual rooster crowing.
      Our room is old fashioned but spacious which is a luxury. There are quite a few pilgrims staying here with a very homely bar and restaurant. Enclosed is a photo of the swimming pool which is looking a tad green.
      We have had a wonderful siesta and now soon it will be time for a quiet drink and a pilgrims dinner.
      I must say it's nice to be back in a quiet villages and enjoy the peace of a little place. Buen camino      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Francés 2022
      Day 13

      Sore feet

      August 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      My feet were very sore as I was approaching Burgos yesterday. It's internal, either muscles, tendons or ligaments, as I still don't have any blisters.
      Last night I was contemplating spending a whole extra day in Burgos, to give the feet a break. But they felt much better in the morning. Still some pain with certain movements, but I could walk, and I was only going to do a relatively short day of 20k.
      I taped the right foot, and it made me feel better, even if just a placebo effect.
      The terrain today would be mostly flat, and I knew I could make it if I went slow, being careful how I placed my feet on the ground.
      Yesterday was also fairly flat, and I sped up a bit (I beat Manolo 😂). No speeding today.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino 2023
      1
      2111
      Day 22

      Hornillos del Camino

      September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Usually, we are hiking up to accommodation, but today, it's down.
      The sandwich I ordered for lunch was huge. We learnt today a salad is considered as vegetables in this village.
      An interesting observation on our journey is that there is no old cars.
      We had a lovely community dinner with Paella with salad and a yummy lemon dish for desert.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Frances 2022

      Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino

      September 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      We thought the walk from Burgos to Hornillos would be boring and a struggle since it is the beginning of crossing the Meseta, but it was anything but.

      First we saw a Korean mother-daughter team that we had not seen in a few days and it was gratifying to see they are progressing with us. We got a foto with them. We are trying to do that at every opportunity, because you never know if you will see each other again,

      Second, we stopped in a restaurant/hostel “La Fuente” in Rabé de la Calzada to use the bathroom and met the couple who were running the place who just so happen to be from Azua, Dominican Republic, where Cristina is from. De Azua para todo el mundo!

      Third, we entered several small churches along the way and in the last received a pilgrim’s blessing and pendant from the señora attending.

      Lastly, the Camino Frances is very full right now. The albergue operators are all commenting about how packed it is. Our luck has it that one couple canceled their private room at “Meeting Point” before we arrived and the hostelera remembered us and penciled us in and we grabbed it. So no snorers or flatulent spewers for us tonight!

      We had a great menu del día with a Spanish couple from Segovia at Manolo’s bar up the street.

      So we have stepped out of Burgos onto the dreaded Meseta feeling very blessed indeed!      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Estépar, Estepar

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