Spain
Hornillos del Camino

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    • Day 22

      Shivering in Hornillos del Camino

      May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      A wonderful day of walking, Amr says it was 21.82kms. But it was cold! We left Burgos a little after 8.30 in our usual blue and cloudless sky, bracing but lovely…but have to admit that soon fingers ached a bit, and it was a bit too cold for comfort, and my blue Lululemon pants seem to feel more breezy…I think it was about 7° but a cold breeze.

      An easy walk out of Burgos, and then an easy, but not picturesque section walking back and forwards to get through and under many main roads and motorways leading in and out of Burgos. But after that it all became spectacular…the amazing greenery of the new crops, the new spring growth in the trees, undulating vistas.

      We paused at a dear little Ermita where we had our camino passports stamped, and were blessed, that we remembered from before. And we stopped for a break at a spot just off the track where there were picnic tables, and suddenly we realised this was where we had gratefully paused last time as an oasis to escape the heat from the very exposed track we had been walking along…SO different, now we wanted protection from the cold (which it didn’t give!)…

      But being cold puts a spring in your step just to keep warm, and it was a great day. The cloudless sky had become scattered with puffy clouds which a couple of times had produced 3 drops of water…but the breeze never let any cloud stay overhead for more than a minute, and the sun shone intermittently. We all remembered that you walk along a plateau with nothing in sight but fields (this time green) and then there is a fairly steep descent and Hornillos, a small village, appears. This time it was magical…a sweet town amongst green fields…in September it was a clump of houses in the middle of nowhere!

      So we arrived, at the little place we stayed at in 2018. But this is May Day and a public holiday here, and everything quiet…our place was closed, with a sign saying “completo” but the door was not locked, so we went in and found a table with keys on little notes - one with Rachel Higgins, and one with Rosemary Marzouk, and room numbers (I think we were the last to arrive and collect our keys!) and found it is self serve today…got to our rooms, bags there, all perfect…except Amr says the shower doesn’t drain well and I’d better have a quick shower so it doesn’t overflow. Also the note said we had a voucher for dinner at a restaurant up the road between 7 and 9 (dinners are included for the next few days) and gave us the breakfast times…so all taken care of and we are very content. R and R have the exact room we had last time, with a sloping ceiling and a skylight!!

      We went for a walk up the road to find where we would be eating, and as we walked along, feeling even colder, some drops started falling and this time we realised that they weren’t raindrops but snowflakes!! They only lasted a few minutes too, and after checking the restaurant, which had a delicious smell of roast chicken, we went back to a closed bar and all had a celebratory drink. Now still cold, with every layer on, but hope they will turn on the heating at night!

      Oh dear, bad reception and difficult uploading..will remove pics and just do words, add photos later…
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    • Day 18

      Burgos to Hontanas - part two

      April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      The Meseta is a plateau, which means it's wide and flat. There's no shade, towns are more spaced out, and if one isn't close you know that for a fact, because you can see for miles. I can imagine in summer, that's all a bit hard. Today, it was clear, still and cool. Sun warming my hair but puffer on. Perfect walking weather, if less than optimal covert pee terrain.

      After stopping for a coffee in Tajardos, a coke in Hornillos (the traditional end point of today's stage) and Oreos on the side of the trail twice, I had four kilometres to go and was starting to count down. I was also really hungry and hoping to catch lunch before this 2-5pm shut down everywhere has. So I put my foot down and turned in 11-minute kilometres but still rolled in after two.

      I was resigned to eating something at the bar when I saw Rusty, both buckled and buckling up, outside a restaurant. He asked if I'd eaten, and told me he'd just had the best meal of his whole Camino including quite a lot of wine, and what's more they were serving for another hour! See separate post about that but spoiler alert, I agree.

      I got to check in to my albergue all in Italian, again, I wonder if it's common or I'm just finding every Italian hospitalero there is. My Spanish really stands no chance when I'm speaking its sister tongue so much but I am improving slowly.

      Today was one of my favourites of the whole trip and the idea that it nearly didn't happen almost stops my heart. Of course every day, every moment of our lives is a miracle of coincidence, but it's too much to imagine so I, like you probably, tend to think of a plan and unplan binary. Today was unplanned. It could have gone in so many directions, ended in so many towns. But it's wound up here. And how lucky I am for it.
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    • Day 15

      Day 11- Jaunt to Castrojeriz 20km/12.4m

      October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

      After an incredible gift from the Camino last night, we were up at 6:45 am and out the door by 7:30 am to begin our trek over the ancient Meseta.

      As hot as it was yesterday afternoon, it was that cold this morning (43 degrees). We had our cold gear on for the first time. (Joan left her puffy coat in Pamplona, so out came the raincoat- with tag still on it). It was an invigorating way to begin the day.

      Only two cities / stops / rest on our 20km hike today, but both were traditional Camino medieval towns with rich histories.

      We stopped mid-day (10km in) for lunch in Hontanas, our only rest of the day. Joanie got her watermelon and it was a good stop all around. We are getting to know some of the new pilgrims on this leg.

      After Hontanas, we emerged from the dusty hot, gravel roads to the San Anton Monastery and their ancient ruins. We could have stopped and slept outdoors under the stars with no electricity, but Kenzie suggested a 5 star Spa and relaxation resort and we hoofed another 5km to Castrojeriz and our 5 -star resort.

      We could see the next city, Castrojeriz, their beautiful church and the castle ruins high up on the hill, and those last 5km were hard.

      We came in hot, dirty, dusty and with very sore feet. Luckily Mackenzie’s recommendation did not disappoint and we limped into a desert oasis. Our first stop was the cold water foot plunge and cerveza’s. We finally had a proper siesta and a wonderful dinner with local wine.

      We are now so tired, waiting on our clothes to dry 9:30 pm. Tomorrow we train to Leon (45 min) to explore the city. We are cutting two days of the desert Meseta. We end with 13+ days of consecutive walking to Santiago . We still have 309km / 192 miles from Leon to Santiago. We believe we are halfway. Buen Camino!
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    • Day 14

      Day 10- Hiking the Meseta to Hornillos

      October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      We left Burgos while dark and walked along the river beside the cathedral and old town. The city was coming alive with bikers and pedestrians all headed to work. There was a nip in the air and it was the coldest morning so far on the trip. It made the first portion of our walk go by very quickly and before we knew it we were at a cafe having our first cup of coffee. It was a big morning to use Julie’s knife, that she bought in SJPP, and we cut up an apple and had it with some nuts we picked up on our hike around the city yesterday.

      Properly fueled we were on our way and headed for our final destination of Hornillos - 22km (13+ miles) away.

      Along our hike we encountered our THE best place for lunch we have found so far. Fried eggs, chorizo, leafy green salad and all around perfect brunch and our halfway point of 10km. Joan literally moaned as she finally had her beloved salad. Outside of the black flies, and the hot, hot unseasonably warm weather it was one of our best stops yet.

      The terrain has changed. We have entered the Meseta, the high plains desert of Northern Spain. The sun is beating upon us. It is dusty with little shade. While we don’t have extreme inclines and declines of the past week, the monotonous never ending gravel road is just as taxing on our bodies as the mountains were.

      For the first time on our journey we did not plan for the night’s accommodations. We thought, “let’s be pilgrims” and see how far we can go. We made the full stage, but the inns were full and left us with only Albergues had room. We found a private room, clean switch a bathroom - a far cry from our luxury hotels. But for tonight it was just perfect.

      After a quick shower, we went to the common area outside our Albergue where we could wash our clothes with a course bar of soap. It smelled fantastic- lemony and Joan bought two beers to help us with our chores. We literally scrubbed our clothes like peasant women by the river.

      Once our work was done we hit the town. We walked the village in search of a cocktail. We found the church, town square and saw that mass was starting in 10 min (6pm) and we attended. As our earlier church experience, it was an absolute blessing. The priest brought all pilgrims to the front of the church. We said prayers and sang songs in our languages and we were blessed with holy water. Another moving experience on our pilgrimage.

      We left church following other pilgrims and walked into a bar/restaurant which had live music and a pilgrim dinner. The bartender spoke English and called himself “Mr fix-it” and we sat down with a beer and started to unwind. We asked what was for dinner and he asked us to “trust him”. As we were waiting for dinner, the musicians began to play. And oh my goodness were we surprised. One a tenor and one a jazz musician- blew us away.

      Joanie got another salad, and Julie her chicken wings and rice. Three pilgrims joined us- two sisters from France and a young man from Germany. It was a magical evening. It truly represented the spirit of the Camino.

      Tomorrow we are off on another 20km. We have a spa booked and going bougie…Buen Camino!
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    • Day 19

      Catrojeriz

      October 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

      Today we left Hornillos in the dark and walked to Castrojeriz. The walk was mostly flat and through agricultural lands where wheat is typically grown although we didn’t see any wheat until the end of the walk. Tomorrow’s a rest day for us so I will write more about this place, but it is really beautiful. There’s a big hill above the town with a crumbling castle on it.

      People here have been very nice. We’re looking forward to checking out the church tomorrow.

      And they have a farmacia! Although David is pretty healthy now, I’m a week past my COVID positive test and still struggling with congestion and cough and very scant voice. We’re doing well with our walking (although any hills have me wondering “is it always this hard to clim a hill???”) but in the afternoons I’ve been napping. I guess my body just needs the extra down time.

      It’s funny (in a great way) how now that we’ve settled into a routine, David’s cognitive challenges are basically just what they are at home. He gets a little confused about where we are and has trouble making decisions. But he now pretty much seems like his old self. I can’t say enough good things about predictable routines. As long as David kind of knows what to expect, he seems engaged and having fun.’ Our first few days on this trip he was so confused that I feared I had broken some abilities that work well for him by bringing him here. But it’s been a very pleasant surprise to see him rally, adjust, and thrive in this new place! I’m so glad we are able to do this together!

      Also we have been discussing the role of religion and our spiritual beliefs a lot on this trip, something we rarely talk about. I believe in a creator and in the mystery of “everything,” where David is more accepting of the teachings of his Lutheran upbringing. Anyway, one of the things I’m pretty skeptical about is the power of prayer. However, I know a lot of people are praying for us now, and I don’t know if that too is helping, but I’m very grateful fair our friends and family members who are praying for us.
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    • Day 19

      Hornillos del Camino

      June 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      Bwuee between wwwwell fffolks wez made it here. Me, myself and I and my pics y ampulles

      Within reasons I still feel them (one day rest technically is not enough to heal) but I moved along fine in the sandals

      20 klicks..kicks... Did a good chunk of it in the morning with cooler temperatures (it did rain last night, Thanks be to GOD)

      Attended Pilgrims Mass tonight with was awesome
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    • Day 20

      Burgos - Hornillos del Camino

      May 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      Die “Meseta” und die 300 Kilometer sind geschafft 🤭

      Wir verlassen Burgos um 7 Uhr, es ist schw… kalt, Skiunterwäsche und Handschuhe an.
      Was für eine wunderschöne Stadt, genau wie Pamplona als Städtetrip sehr zu empfehlen.
      Wir laufen fast 7 Kilometer bis wir aus Burgos raus sind. Richtung Tarjados laufen wir, da gibt es bestimmt Frühstück und wir frieren..
      Weiter nach Rabe de las Calzadas mit einem süßen kleinen Cafe, wo wir unsere Freunde Gina und Bill treffen.
      Bill gibt uns wieder tolle Tipps für unsere weitere Reise.
      Vor Rabe sehen wir Denise, wir drücken uns herzlich und sind froh wieder ein bekanntes Gesicht zu sehen. Sie fragt mich wie es mit Watsapp funktioniert weil sie als Kanadierin eine Simkarte kaufen musste. Da haben wir Europäer schon ein sehr gutes funktionierendes Mobilfunksystem.
      Alles eingestellt für Denise und jetzt geht es Richtung Meseta, puh..
      Samuel unser Host für heute wartet schon auf uns in der Albergue de Sol a Sol in Hornillos.
      Wir springen sofort unter der heißen Dusche und zum Schluss kühle ich meine Füße mit kaltem Wasser, eine Wohltat.
      Haben noch ganz nette Gespräche mit einem Kanadier und seinen Sohn, ein Ehepaar aus El Salvador und 3 Brasilianer, genießen unser Pilgermenu für 11€.
      Um 7 Uhr liegen wir im Bett, bereiten uns auf die gefürchtete Meseta vor.
      Das wird schön! Ich freue mich drauf!
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    • Day 27

      Day 18 - Hornillos del Camino

      September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      Back on the trail again after a good day off. We are now less than 500 kilometers from the completion (just under 300 miles). First day on the Meseta (you know, it only rains in Spain, mainly on the plains - meseta). No rain today but we did walk about 14.5 miles. It seems to be getting easier to do longer distance, provided the weather cooperates.Read more

    • Day 22

      Day 18: Hornillos to Castrojeriz, part 1

      June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

      Mileage: 12.5 miles
      Altitude gain: 676 feet
      Altitude loss: 722 feet
      Weather: very warm and sunny
      Total mileage: 209.5

      Another beautiful day! We had the room (with 7 beds) to ourselves last night - it was helpful to get so much good, quiet sleep. It took us a while to get breakfast and coffee but it was worth the wait. Most of today was on the meseta, which I had read would be boring, but so far that’s not the case. The green grain fields and poppies continue to be beautiful, and even the very flat parts just remind me of Kansas, which I don’t mind. In fact, I have two posts’ worth of photos to share today!

      1. In Hornillos. They do like their pollos here!
      2. Hornillos door with misty morning meseta just visible in the background
      3.-6. Meseta views
      7. The bell tower in Hontanas, where we finally had coffee. The bells rang while we were there - very cool. I have a video.
      8.-10. More meseta views later in the day. The poppies make me so happy.
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    • Day 18

      Hornillos to Castrojeriz

      June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Lulled to sleep by a nightingale and woken by a cuckoo - possibly only on the Camino and on the Meseta?
      Slightly wild dreams but was awake just before 6 and left around 6.40.
      Unbelievably beautiful landscapes again and again I’m wishing I could paint. It’s hard to describe how stunning our environs are here. You need to see it for yourself.
      We have been lucky with the weather - not too hot and very little rain today.
      Stopped for coffee at an albergue just before Honteras and then again in the town itself where we met up with Sheryl and Janice.
      Easy walking today with the final stretch into Castrojeriz passing a ruined monastery now run as a very simple albergue by the Canadian Confraternity. I have to stay there next time if I’m lucky enough to be able to do this again. It has no electricity so dinner is by candlelight. No hoy water either - but I can do cold showers!! I’m aiming for it!
      Arrived at our Albergue, Iacobus, which was at the very far end of the town. Hopefully this means a bit less distance tomorrow which at the moment looks like quite a long day.
      Managed to get washing dry despite heavy thundery showers.
      Dinner at the albergue - not very veggie friendly so had to eat fish as a main course but did get a cup of camomile tea at the end which was a bonus.
      Now trying to get an early night as very tired!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Hornillos del Camino, 09230

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