Spain
Hospital de Órbigo

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    • Day 45

      Hospital de Órbigo - quiet and eventful!

      May 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Today was travel day to Hospital de Órbigo, and bus booked for 3.45, so we spent the morning having last walks round León, and left the bags for transfer. That was a bit of a kerfuffle as they knew we were making our own way here, and we weren’t on the transfer list…but our vouchers said transfer and they sorted it out and delivered them…good for us, as otherwise we would have had to lug them to the bus station in León, and as it turned out, to our hotel at this end! Anyway, that’s a boring aside, but we had a quiet morning in León, still lovely weather but cold - maxed at about 16°, and quite a breeze, making it even colder…I wore all my layers, and Amr has taken over my down jacket - he hadn’t anticipated these temperatures!

      A funny thing happened when we were sitting in the plaza outside the Gaudi house in León…we were sitting in the seat, which has a statue of Gaudi sitting there, and we were beside him. Well, an Italian group with a guide suddenly surrounded us, and we realised they wanted photos (but not with us in them!) so of course we moved with our backpacks etc - by now we were checked out of the hotel - and the guide was very grateful and we were presented as peregrinos, and asked how far we walked each day, and from Australia was a great hit…we were celebrities for a minute…fun…and I found I could understand the Italian guide talking about León and the camino so much better than the Spanish guide of yesterday…my Spanish has gone so fluffy..

      We had lunch at a bar we had sighted, and it was excellent..Amr had morcilla - blood sausage mixture, a specialty of León, and I had equivalent of sashimi cod on orange and some magic sauce, both on toast and both magnificent…Amr helped me with mine, still having small amounts.

      Anyway, we set off to the bus station - it is in a state of renovation which we knew from arrival, bit chaotic, but we got our bus on time, about half an hour to here. This was walking that Amr was missing, but actually quite boring, especially leaving León through endless industrial areas and suburbs, then even the countryside was not cultivated much or interesting, so I didn’t feel too bad. Tomorrow he will stride out and can have his full dose of exercise!!

      The bus driver knew we were going to Hospital de Órbigo (not its final destination) and when he said this was our stop we got out in bewilderment! Walking in we have always come from the countryside and walked over the very long bridge to our hotel - on the camino. We found ourselves in a village, rather desolate, no sign of river or bridge…Amr turned on Google and we found it was a fairly short walk to the hotel, so we followed directions, through little streets, all shuttered, very little sign of life, till it said your hotel is very close, and there it was - we approached from the opposite direction - the bridge isn’t a vehicle bridge - and at first we’re totally disoriented…but there was the bridge, and we settled in, our bags were here! Phew.

      We had a walk over the bridge, just for the sake of it , and a bit of a wander, but this town has nothing really to offer sightseeing wise, so we are now showered, done our washing and relaxing in the bar - Amr with a vino Tinto, and I have a “limonada” which looks and tastes like sangria! Dinner in about half an hour.
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    • Day 27

      Day 26, Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

      June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Today life really felt like a bowl of cherries! Or a hatful - picked by our fellow pilgrims in the garden of our lovely albergue. On the Camino people are always saying it’s about the journey, not the destination. However, today it really was the destination which made this day so very special.
      We arrived at our albergue and were greeted with a cup of delicious herbal tea (the herbs grown in the garden). Lunch involved a lot of ladder-climbing in pursuit of the ripest cherries and was a social, happy affair. Fiona and I had bought gazpacho and were eating it when our fellow pilgrims joined us, shared our crisps and provided hatfuls of cherries.
      Later in the afternoon a fellow guest led an hour- long yoga session (with a little help from Fiona). And before dinner we were treated to a ‘sound bath’ held in honour of the founder of the albergue who died a year ago tomorrow. It’s hard to describe what this was - we lay on the floor while someone played Tibetan sound bowls. It may sound strange but it was deeply serene and meditative and felt like another significant spiritual moment on this pilgrimage. Afterwards, he offered to play the bowls on Fiona. I know this sounds stranger still, but a few of us volunteered to experience it too and it was really affecting to feel the music resonate through you.
      Next up was the most wonderful vegetarian meal in the garden polished off with cherry cake. One of the special things about this place is that it is a donativo - you only pay what you can afford for the food. The accommodation cost 13 euros. At the end of the meal the cook talked about the founder and how the three of them who worked with him had set up an association to continue his vision of looking after pilgrims after his death. She cried and was comforted by a lovely German woman called Ramona who had visited in 2016 and remembered him.

      Earlier in the day we had met Ramona, who we’d bumped into a couple of weeks ago and she said she’d had a couple of difficult days, had wanted to return to Albergue Verde today but they were full. When we arrived I asked if there might be a spare bed and they said they had one bed left so I sent her a WhatsApp and reserved it for her. She was delighted and very sweetly, said that we had been her Camino gift today. It was nothing at our end but very satisfying to have helped make someone happy.
      Another bonus today was being introduced to Nick, a vegan chef from Hove, who is helping out here. He shared a vegetarian map of the Camino which has set us trying to book up vegetarian places for the days we still need bookings for.
      Oh, and I have successfully walked without taping up my toes. I took the risk this morning of wearing a new pair of socks or, should I say, gloves for the feet.
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    • Day 4

      Hospita Orbigo nach Astorga

      September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Nach einer guten Nacht geht es heute weiter bis nach Astorga. Im Vergleich zu gestern stehen allerdings nicht 31 KM, sondern lediglich 18 KM mit rund 250 Höhenmetern auf dem Programm. Wir wählen wieder den Weg fernab der Autostraße. Wir treffen zahlreiche Pilger aus vielen Ländern und Kontinenten. Es ist ein fröhliches Hallo verbunden mit dem Wunsch "Buen Camino". Auch auf dieser Etappe können wir uns wieder mit Früchten vom Wegesrand stärken. Überrascht werden wir von einem von Pilgern für Pilger organisierten Picknick. Es gibt Früchte, Wurst, Käse, Getränke, Kuchen, Eier und noch vieles mehr. Gegen eine kleine Spende kann sich hier jeder bedienen. Die Atmosphäre ist herzlich und es bahnen sich interessante Gespräche zwischen den Pilgern an. Das letzte Stück nach Astorga gesellt sich ein Holländer zu uns. Wir gehen dieses Teilstück gemeinsam, tauschen unserer bisherigen Erfahrungen sowie Erwartungen an den Weg aus. Ich schätze diese - wenn auch nur kurzen - Begegnungen mit anderen Pilgern sehr.

      Astorga ist eine kleine sehenswerte Stadt am Rande der Berge von León. Sie ist eine der ältesten Städte der Region, die während der Herrschaft der Römer auf der iberischen Halbinsel als Asturica Augusta bekannt war. Zu dieser Zeit war Astorga der nördlichste Endpunkt der römischen Straße Via de la Plata, die von Mérida im Süden nach Astorga führte und deren gesamte Wegstrecke von 470 KM gepflastert war. Auch wir nutzen auf unserem heutigen Weg ein Teilstück dieser alten Römerstraße und spüren so ein bisschen den Hauch der Geschichte. Unsere Straßenbauer sollten sich einmal ein Beispiel nehmen an der Nachhaltigkeit des damaligen Straßenbaus.

      Unser Hotel liegt in Sichtweite zum Palacio Episcopal (Bischofspalast). Er wurde nach den Plänen des Katalanen Antoni Gaudi errichtet und beherbergt heute das Museo de los Caminos mit Ausstellungsstücken zur Geschichte des Jakobswegs. Morgen geht es weiter nach Foncebadón. Mal sehen, was uns auf diesem Weg erwartet.
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    • Day 5

      Hospital de Orbigo

      May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      I planned to stay over in Hospital de Orbigo, but got to the town at 11:20 and decided to carry on to the next town. Seeing that I did not book any accommodation it is easy to change my plans. I walked over the famous bridge and the first one on my CaminoRead more

    • Day 34

      Hospital de Orbigo

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Day 30 - Walked 35 kms today from Leon to the town of Hospital de Orbigo. It was a brutal walk - almost all the way on the sidewalk along a highway. My knees were shot by the time I reached this place. It was a warm afternoon and I was out of water. At the outskirts of town I fell upon the water fountain. Aaaahhh!
      Being me, I signed up for a ‘free’ historical guided tour of Hospital de Orbigo . This very cute 20 something explained the story of the knight who had to charge with his lance and break 300 lances of challengers in order to win his lady love. This event was staged on the bridge leading into town.
      The town is very pretty and I stayed in a cute Albergue. I met a humanitarian nurse, Brenda, who walked to Astorga with me.
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    • Day 34

      Camino Day 24: León to Hospital deÓrbigo

      September 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Total Distance: 41.5km
      Step Count: 58k
      Blisters to date: 2
      Tortillas to date: 21
      Injuries: shin splints

      Blippin’ longest day ever walking! Not just on the Camino but in my lifetime! - to date anyways.

      What was meant to be a 34km day (a bit of a stretch for my leg and the longest day I’d have so far) ended up being 41km! All the guide books and trail info about this stage were wrong as confirmed by the locals later.

      The walk itself was flat, uneventful, serene, with minimal stops, a very early start and some rain during the morning. I ended up walking the whole day with a Mexican woman who’d asked me in León if she could stick with me just to make her way out of town. It would be dark and she didn’t want to get lost but we found our way out easily thanks to another pilgrim who was heading out at the same time.

      Grumpiness kicked in after 30 odd KMs when I realised I still had another 8 to reach my destination but all the aches and pains disappeared in an instant when we arrived! Hospital de Órbigo was by far one of the most beautiful arrivals to a village with its long Roman bridge and the beautiful love story surrounding it (el Passo Honroso)! ❤️

      We were also going to stay at an Albergue run by Venezuelans which to my surprise was all dedicated to paintings by pilgrims. It was so colourful and reminded me of posadas by the beach back home! 💛💙❤️

      Lukas and I spent like an hour painting and then went to enjoy a well deserved dinner with Tim and then lots of sleep! The next day would be a short one 😊
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    • Day 2–3

      Day 2 Hospital de Orbigo

      October 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Day two started without any troubles. I met two people from Netherlands so I practised my Dutch. The lady had a problem with her ankle and she could barely walk. They have been on Camino for seven weeks, me 2 days and I already feel quite beaten. The route was nice and quiet. The last stretch of La Meseta. Most of the time the route followed back country road with almost no traffic. One could see from horizon to horizon, nothing around. It reminded me of a story back in my hitchhiking days. One driver mentioned that he experienced something like that in Kazachstan. I strangely became happy when a car appeared on a horizon. I met a German peregrino. He called taxi since his ankle was also swollen and he could not walk anymore. He offered me a ride, I refused. First test? The bridge in Hospital De Orbigo is impressive, the longest on Camino, from 10th century. My albergue is just next to it. Super convenientRead more

    • Day 3

      Der Weg sorgt für dich

      September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      Die Entfernung von Virgen del Camino nach Hospital de Orbigo entlang einer Schnellstraße beträgt 21 KM. Ich entscheide mich für eine alternative Route durch das Hügelland, dem Camino Paramico. Dieser ist landschaftlich sehr reizvoll und ursprünglich, aber 10 KM länger. Wir treffen freundliche und gesprächige Landwirte. Gesprächsbarrieren werden durch Gestik und Improvisation überwunden. Man fühlt sich wie in einem Pantominen-Theater. Die Einheimischen warnen uns vor imaginären Bahnübergängen, gefährlichen Tieren und Sümpfen sowie vor morschen und nicht nutzbaren Sitzbänken.
      Außer den tollen Menschen, die wir treffen, erfreuen wir uns an Früchten am Wegesrand. So essen wir süße Feigen, Brombeeren, Trauben, Äpfel und Birnen.
      Hospital de Orbigo ist ein kleines Dorf. Es entstand um das 12. Jahrhundert und wurde von Rittern des Johanniterordens als Pilgerhospiz gegründet. Älter als das Dorf selbst ist eine ab dem 10./11. Jahrhundert auf römischen Fundamenten errichtete 20-bogige Brücke über den Rio Orbigo. Berühmt wurde die Brücke durch den Lanzenkampf des Ritters Suero de Quinones. Im Heiligen Jahr 1434 gelobte der Edelmann, 15 Tage vor und nach dem 25. Juli, also dem Tag Santiagos, mit neun Genossen gegen jeden über die Brücke kommenden Ritter zu kämpfen. Durch die edle Tat wollte er sich von einer Halsfessel befreien, die er jeden Donnerstag als Zeichen seiner unglücklichen Liebe für eine Edeldame anlegte. Don Suero und seine wackeren Freunde besiegten der Legende nach 166 Ritter. So konnte er sich von seiner Liebesfessel befreien.
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    • Day 5

      Hospital de Orbigo from Villar Mazarife

      October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Another short day, getting my body into walking shape. Walked 14 kilometers to Hospital de Orbigo, stopping to stretch out and rest complaining hip joints at every opportunity. I’m walking a little better today.

      Started in the dark around 8:00 AM. The days are short. Lunch in Villavante was the old standby tortilla de patatas, which is like a potato omelette and doesn’t have anything to do with tortillas as they are known in the Americas.

      Staying at a real nice albergue in Hospital de Orbigo. The owners encourage anyone who wants, to paint. The place is full of interesting art. I’m sparing them my artistic talents. This good sized town has a long, famous bridge. In olden days, a knight made an oath to joust and beat 300 others to prove his love for a woman he wanted to impress. He and his buds didn’t make it past 170 however. I don’t know if he ended up with his love interest or not. True story.
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    • Day 33

      Hospital de Orbigo

      July 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Since we’re ahead of schedule we stopped early in a delightful village called Hospital de Orbigo. The pictures show coming into town across a very long bridge, the church, some of the quaint, and cobble stone lanes.

      But Sean had to explain the final photo for me because I hadn’t put together what I was seeing. It’s a jousting tournament setup!

      There are posters here at the albergue of the annual competitions and evidently it’s a really big thing—not just here but throughout the region. I’ve seen it in movies, but didn’t recognize it when I saw it in real life.

      These people take medieval fairies to a whole new level! Enjoy the pics.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Hospital de Órbigo, Hospital de Orbigo

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