• Phil Merrell
Oct – Nov 2023

Camino 2023

A 24-day adventure by Phil Read more
  • Trip start
    October 18, 2023

    The Night Before

    October 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    The night before departure. I’m pretty excited. My new pack is all set up and ready to go. My flight departs at 5:00 AM tomorrow, so it will be a short night. I said my goodby to Debbie tonight to avoid waking her at 3:30 AM when I drag up out of here for the Walla Walla airport. Then it’s Seattle, Dallas, and on to Madrid, with pretty minimal layovers. If the gods of airline scheduling smile, we will arrive at 9:00 AM local time on Thursday. Time enough for lunch in Madrid, and then an afternoon train to Leon and bed. I’m planning on an extra day in Leon to get acclimatized to the time zone before I start walking.Read more

  • A Day In Madrid

    October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Pretty good flight, we got in an hour early. I actually got a little sleep on board for a change, which helped my day a lot. With 7 hours to kill before my train to Leon, I went in search of the mythical Bocadilla de Calamari, or squid sandwich. This is a specialty of Madrid cuisine, which is odd because Madrid is in the center of the country and not on any coast. The quest involved researching the subway and the in-city rail system and transferring several times through station construction to get to a recommended area of the city. When I got off the underground and started walking on the streets it was POURING RAIN!!I I ended up going under a storefront and pulling my rain gear out of my pack. The poncho was a new low in the Madrid fashion scene I’m guessing. The bocadilla de calamari lived up to its reputation I’m please to report. I wandered around in the driving rain for a while and then made my way back to catch my train. I’m now hurling along through the limited visibility at 180 mph on my way to Leon. I love these high-speed trains!
    Later: As soon as I got to Leon it started pouring rain again for the walk to my hotel near the cathedral. Just when I got to the cathedral the clouds suddenly parted, illuminating the beautiful structure.
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  • A Day in Leon

    October 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Got a relatively good sleep last night. Did laundry in the sink and then went out walking for most of the day. Talked with a couple of other people who are walking the Camino. The temperature last week was in the 90’s and people were struggling. It doesn’t look like that will be a problem for the foreseeable future however. The forecast is for rain, followed by more rain for the next few days. Hopefully that won’t be the theme of this Camino!

    Some photos for the day. Good doors are important to Spanish people. Even in relatively run down areas, the doors are solid wood and one of the most notable features of a house. In nice neighborhoods doors are artwork.

    Went through the cathedral again. The architecture is astounding, especially considering the technology they had. It was built over a 50 year period. The city had a population of 5,000 at the time.

    Bedtime now. Tomorrow I start walking!
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  • Villar de Mazarife from León

    October 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    First day walking. Decided to skip the long walk (4 miles) out of León on city streets. Shared a cab to the edge of the city with another pilgrim and have no regrets. Cloudy and windy, but no rain all day! Weather has definitely turned to fall. But that’s pretty much what I expected. I’m geared up for it, except for sleeping. I brought my sleeping bag liner instead of my sleeping bag, in order to keep weight down. I may live to regret that. Also didn’t bring my walking sticks. Mountain pass in a couple more days so we’ll get to see if that was the right choice also.

    Pretty uneventful walk, but hey, I’m back on the Camino!. Body is protesting and I stopped to stretch out on picnic tables and park benches whenever they were encountered. It went this way on the first Camino. Sadly, I neglected to buy anti-inflammatories yesterday. Now I’m in small villages and on the weekend, so nothing open until Monday.

    Staying at a nice alburge and had dinner there with a bunch of nice folks. Tomorrow will be 18 k if my bod holds up. They passed the anti-inflammatory hat for me at dinner, so I may survive the weekend.
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  • Astorga from Hospital de Orbigo

    October 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    On the road at 8AM. Sun came up around 8:30. The next village was supposed to have an open bar for coffee and food, but the only things up were some dreadful looking pilgrim scarecrows. A guy was selling fruit out of his garage and I asked where I could get coffee. He took me into his kitchen and made me coffee and toast! Had a monster rooster on guard duty.

    The rain held off for the first 2 hours, then it rained steady for the rest of the day’s walk. Of course it dried up when I stopped for the night.

    Seeing a lot of people on the trail today. I had read it was getting crowded this fall, but hoped it would have quieted down by now. Have an alternate route I can take from Ponferrada in a few days if it’s getting more crowded.

    Toured the Astorga cathedral this afternoon. As impressive as the cathedral in Leon but in different ways. Look at the size of those stone columns! Took a photo of a painting of a demon harassing a saint. A 14th century version of Freddy Kruger I guess.

    Heading into the mountains in a couple of days. I chickened out and bought some long underwear this afternoon. Then dinner at the alburgue with nice people.
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  • Hospital de Orbigo from Villar Mazarife

    October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Another short day, getting my body into walking shape. Walked 14 kilometers to Hospital de Orbigo, stopping to stretch out and rest complaining hip joints at every opportunity. I’m walking a little better today.

    Started in the dark around 8:00 AM. The days are short. Lunch in Villavante was the old standby tortilla de patatas, which is like a potato omelette and doesn’t have anything to do with tortillas as they are known in the Americas.

    Staying at a real nice albergue in Hospital de Orbigo. The owners encourage anyone who wants, to paint. The place is full of interesting art. I’m sparing them my artistic talents. This good sized town has a long, famous bridge. In olden days, a knight made an oath to joust and beat 300 others to prove his love for a woman he wanted to impress. He and his buds didn’t make it past 170 however. I don’t know if he ended up with his love interest or not. True story.
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  • Rabanal del Camino from Astorga

    October 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Woke up to 34 degrees and rain in Astorga. Rolled over and slept some more but it didn’t go away. Packed up and headed out anyway. Went straight to the sporting goods store and bought a fleece blanket. Maybe leaving the sleeping bag home and just taking a sleeping bag liner was a less inspired decision. Rain quit after breakfast, but the rest of the day it was either raining or not. My rain gear is working fine, which is everything.

    Started a gradual ascent into the mountains,, it was uphill all day. Tomorrow is a really steep and muddy 4k section up into Foncebadon I’m a little nervous about. There is a bus that may be going that way at 8:00 in the morning that I may be on, haven’t decided.

    Not much in spectacular scenery today. Visibility was not great with the rain and overcast. Took photos of some old buildings

    Staying in the municipal albergue in Rabanal del Camino tonight. Went to a vespers service in an old crumbling church in town. I had never been to one before. The chanting and responsive reading was really moving. Had dinner with albergue people after.
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  • El Acebo from Rabanal

    October 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Had a great sleep last night. Waited but the bus didn’t show. Found a bar open and got coffee and breakfast before hitting the road. I had been concerned about the path up the hill, but it really wasn’t as bad as I expected.

    Arriving in Foncebadon, I encountered an accordion concert in progress! After a hot cup of tea, went on to Cruz Ferro at the top of the mountains. Tradition is to bring a rock from home representing your sins and cast it at the foot of the cross. I forgot to bring a rock, again, so I guess I’m still burdened.

    While I had worried about going up the mountain, I should have worried more about getting down. It was a rough rest of the day. Steep grades, exposed bedrock, and loose rock on top of exposed rock faces. My knees don’t do downhill well in any form, but this was special. And it started raining about that time. Going slowly, I made it in pretty good shape, but definitely feeling the day.
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  • Ponferrada from El Acebo

    October 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Started out the day in a steady hard rain. That turned out to be the theme for the day. Apparently, there is a huge Atlantic system that is pumping precipitation into Europe and particularly Spain. The forecast is for more of the same for the near future. The small village of El Acebo was closed up tight, so walked to the next small village, Riego de Ambros, for coffee and food. It is a pretty, well kept village.

    The local people at the Albergue said the Camino from there on down to Molina Seca was much easier than the previous day coming down from Cruz Ferro. Except that it was raining so hard the trail was a stream most of the way. And it was still pretty damn steep. At times like this, I remember the old fishing proverb, “the worst day fishing is better than the best day at work”. If I didn’t have good gear, this day would have been miserable. As it was, I had time to reflect as I paddled my way down the creek. The Camino is good for reflecting.

    So I made it to level ground at Molina Seca, and from there the remaining 6 k walk to Ponferrada is entirely on sidewalk. I decided to celebrate surviving getting down the mountain by getting a private room instead of staying in an albergue. Was able to do much needed laundry at the hotel also.

    Ponferrada is kind of lacking in character. It’s nice enough, but the people don’t seem as open and friendly as other cities. I am planning on visiting the Templar castle on the way out of town tomorrow morning.

    Time for bed - g’night!
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  • Camponaraya from Ponferrada

    October 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Private room, so I enjoyed sleeping in. I didn’t have to check out until noon, so I left my gear and went out. Chocolate and churros is a Spanish delicacy that I had neglected to try on the previous Camino. Decided to try it out and wow! The chocolate is so thick it’s almost pudding. And delicious, and you just have to dip your deep fried churros in it! Massive chocolate and sugar high.

    I then speed walked to the Ponferrada Castle and examined it in great detail. It’s a really well preserved castle built in 12th century by the Templar Knights to protect pilgrims on the camino from robbers and extortion. Most of today’s pictures are of the castle.

    Started walking after noon and it was pretty nondescript most of the day. Getting into and out of big cities is not a high point of the camino. Got rained on a couple of times, but nothing like the last few days.
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  • Trabadelo from Camponaroya

    October 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Nice morning for walking. Overcast but no rain to start. I’m walking through the Bierzo valley, the center of production for Mencia wine. Lots of vineyards starting to show fall colors. I took a slightly longer route that stayed away from highways and it was really pleasant. Dale and I took the same route on the previous camino.

    I’m still working my way into trail shape. I stop and stretch my hip and back every hour or so.

    About halfway through the day I had to choose between stopping early with only 14 kilometers or going to the next village which was another 10 k. I decided to see how my body would hold up. By the time I made it to Trabadelo I was feeling it. Met up with some people from earlier stops and had dinner together.

    The mountains are coming. Tomorrow I’ll have to deal with the pass at O Cebriero.
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  • Hospital de la Condesa from Trabadelo

    October 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    A beautiful morning with this strange glowing orb in the sky! It has been a gradual ascent the last half of yesterday and all of today. I walked to Las Herrerias where the gradual grade changes to a steep, reportedly muddy 8 k climb up to O Cebreiro. I took the route of discretion and shared a cab with one of my dinner partners from last night.

    While having a juice outside a bar, waiting for transportation I was talking with another walker and mentioned my hip was bugging me. He asked if I would like him to fix it. Turns out he is a retired acupuncturist on his Camino and he carried a bag full of treatment gear. He opened up sterile packs and gave me a treatment that was amazingly effective right there at the table!

    I still took the cab to the top of the hill. Then I walked another 6 k to my stop for the night. It’s a really nice new albergue run by the Region of Galicia (like a state). Only one other person in the whole place. The only bar in town closed down earlier than posted, but I banged on the door and was able to get some food to take back to the albergue. Will do laundry in the morning before I walk.
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  • A Balsa from Hospital de la Condesa

    October 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Spain changed to daylight savings time last night. Nice to see light at 7:30 instead of 8:30. Did laundry when I woke up. Got breakfast at the town bar, and started walking around 10. It was ups and downs all day, but an overall loss of altitude coming down from O Cebreiro.

    This was a very mixed up day weather wise. Started out in a light drizzle, then a good stretch of sun, then high wind and hard rain, then sun, then rain again as I finished the day’s walk a little after 5. I’m thinking of adopting that old fisherman’s proverb “the worst day fishing is better than the best day at work.” With this much practice it has become easy to get in and out of my slicker. I can do it without taking my pack off and don’t even stop walking any more. A few other people walking, but not as many as previous days.

    I’ve been working through some physical problems as I walk. My walking style has adjusted accordingly. At home I usually walk if not briskly, at least at a good consistent pace. For a long haul like the camino, that pace has been causing me some problems as I get into shape. I’ve found that I do much better if I walk slower. It’s more like I’m moseying the camino rather than walking it. Today felt much better. I’m sure I’ll finally get in shape about the time I get to Santiago!

    Tonight I’m staying at a nice family run albergue. A Dutch man and an Italian woman opened this albergue 10 years ago. They have a young daughter who speaks multiple languages. I had a very nice vegan meal by myself, I’m the only one staying here tonight. I like supporting the smaller family run businesses.
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  • Portomarin from Sarria

    November 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Another mixed rain/sun day with lots of wind. Reports are that there is a major storm affecting all of Europe and northern Spain. For me it works out as mostly overcast, a little bit of sun, and then hammered by wind and rain, several times a day.

    It’s All Saints Day, so, a lot of businesses are closed. I think it’s most similar to Memorial Day in that people put flowers on the graves of their loved ones.

    The trails are running through chestnut and oak forests. I remember how much Dale and I appreciated the shade when we walked the camino a couple of summers ago. There is very little shade in the central part of this route (the Meseta).

    I passed the 100 kilometer marker today. This is the least distance you can walk an still qualify for the Compostela certificate. The number of people on the trail has increased notably. When I went looking for dinner, there was not much open because of the holiday. The only place I found was full of young people who were walking the Camino. They were also doing drink chugging contests with accompanying clapping and chants. I am so disappointed that today’s youth has not learned from my past mistakes.
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  • Palas de Rey from Portomarin

    November 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Blowing and raining hard all night last night. The power in Portomarín went out several times. It’s getting a little discouraging.

    Walked past the ruins of an ancient castro near a town called Castromaior. Castros are settlements built by the original inhabitants of Spain. They had no written records and little is known about their culture. This one was active from around 5 BC to 4 AD, when the Roman army assumed management of the area.

    Something I’ve noticed in rural Spain is that people use everything that grows on their property. It’s common to see roofs built to accommodate the curves and thickness variations of huge tree branches. And to see huge tree branches stored up in rafters, presumably waiting for a future structure to be built. They think in longer terms than I typically do.

    So I ended up folding and calling for a cab to finish my day. Just too damn crappy weather for too many days.

    Palas de Rey is another town typical of the last 100 kilometers of the camino. A happening place with lots of energetic young people. I’m sounding like a grumpy old man… and with this weather I may be becoming one.

    I did meet up for an enjoyable dinner with some people I had met earlier in the camino.
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  • Santiago From Palas de Rey

    November 3, 2023 in Spain

    I decided I’d had enough rain this morning. I’m abandoning this camino route and heading for some warmer weather. I took a bus the remaining 70 k to Santiago de Compostela, which is the nearest city with good rail access. I won’t qualify for a compostela certificate, but I already have one from the last camino with my brother. The cathedral is still spectacular, and the city is really special. I checked into the restored monetary San Martin de Pinario that Dale and I stayed in before. It was converted to a luxury hotel years ago, but they kept one floor of the old monk’s sleeping rooms for pilgrims for cheap. I spent the rest of the day walking around the city, mostly in rain of course! Had a nice dinner at the monastery with some other pilgrims.Read more

  • València!

    November 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Had a wonderful included breakfast at San Martin and then walked across town to the train station. The train was late, which is unusual in Spain. It was a weather delay. Stormy ride to Madrid with a lot of delays. Missed the connection to my final destination, Valencia, but they put on a special train and got us there within a couple of hours of the original plan, but still after dark. As we headed east out of Madrid the weather got better and better. I got two nights at an Air B&B in Valencia to start with. Will make more plans after I get a look around.Read more

  • Valencia - Second Day

    November 5, 2023 in Spain

    Woke up to warm sunny skies!! Started the day with the local version of breakfast, coffee, pastry, and fresh squeezed Valencia orange juice. Orange trees loaded with oranges are everywhere. Strolled around the city looking at the sights. At the cathedral I was able to climb up an unending spiral tower to the top for a view of the city. Their cathedral is the equal of any in Spain. The main city markets were closed, on Sunday unfortunately. Had a delicious lunch of the best paella I have had. And then walked around for the rest of the day.

    Valencia is strongly community oriented. Parks are everywhere and they are full of families out using them on a sunny Sunday. The Turia River used to run through the city. After some devastating floods in the 50’s, they decided to divert the river outside town. The original plan was to use the old river bed for a new highway system. The community fought back and eventually a beautiful 5 mile long park resulted.

    Being a tourist is different from walking a camino. On the camino, you have the days walking for reflection and you meet fellow pilgrims as you go. Most nights there is often a meal with others staying at your albergue that provides community. As a tourist, you have a lot less in common with people around you and have to work a lot harder to connect with them. Especially when there are language differences to overcome. It feels a little lonely walking around without someone to share the experience with. I miss my wife Debbie, especially since I left the camino.

    There are a couple of camino routes that start from Valencia. I’ve decided to do a little walk on the Camino Raquena tomorrow starting a ways out of the city. .
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  • A Nice Day on the Camino Raquena

    November 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I caught a local train out of Valencia this morning. Starting out passing miles and miles of orange orchards loaded with fruit. After a little while, we headed up into the mountains. Some beautiful canyons and countryside. I was supposed to get off at El Rebollar, but the train platform had another train, so they kept on going. I had to go to the next stop, get off, and wait for another train going southbound. The local train system is quite a bit different than the long haul trains! I finally got to El Rebollar and started walking in mid afternoon.

    Thus started one of the sweetest walking stages I have done. The route went through vineyards, scrub land, pine forest, and a beautiful canyon at the end. None of it was jaw dropping spectacular, but it all fit together so nicely and represented the different Spanish environments so well. With the late start, I finished the walk into the town of Raquena in the dark, which I don’t like doing. But it was a really good day.

    The Camino Frances is the famous main camino route that gets most of the traffic, but there are over 30 different pilgrimage routes in Spain. Most of the other routes like the Camino Raquena have very low numbers and much less infrastructure dedicated to pilgrims. There is a group of Spanish people who are strong supporters of this route. They go out and mark the route, identify cheaper places to stay, and give advice and assistance to pilgrims. They got grants and raised money to buy a house for an unmanned donativo albergue in Raquena. I got there late, so while there were plenty of beds, the only two beds with mattresses were already occupied. Full funding is still in process. I stayed and had dinner the two people had cooked before finding a hotel for the night.

    I’ve come up into the mountains and it’s much colder here than on the coast.
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  • Requena to Cuenca

    November 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    I started out today with breakfast at the town square in Raquena. The people I’ve dealt with in this town have been so welcoming and friendly. It is interesting to watch how these Spanish communities work. People walking by greeting each other, groups of men or women walking around talking, business people stopping and talking. The sense of community is so strong and apparent. It’s their culture, but I also think communities based on walking instead of driving is a necessary component. I really enjoyed my morning here.

    Deb and I are planning to come back to Spain in the spring. Part of my rationalization for this southern detour is to scout out some places we may visit. It’s really more about not raining, but play along with me on this. I’ve wanted to see Cuenca for a long time though, and it’s on the way back to Madrid and my flight home in two days. So I took the train to Cuenca today.

    Cuenca is a city built on a rock outcrop surrounded by two rivers. Houses hang on the cliff faces. Nothing is flat and everything goes up or down. I visited the cathedral and walked around a little before dark. The pension I’m staying is down at river level. The back wall of the pension is a rock face. Tomorrow I’ll walk the route around the whole rock bluff/old city and get some better photos.
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  • Cuenca to Madrid

    November 8, 2023 in Spain

    Walked a circuit around the old town this morning. It’s really impressive. Enjoying my last morning out and about. After lunch I caught a high speed train to Madrid . It’s sure a nice way to travel!

    Went out for my last dinner in Spain tonight in Madrid. The Spanish make the best hamburgers and I have been wanting one for a while. My flight home is tomorrow.
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  • And Home!

    November 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Went out for breakfast and then walked around the neighborhood for a while. Preparing to plug in to the 20+ hours of transit time coming up. It’s been a different camino than I planned for, but it’s been great to get out walking, some time for solitary reflection, and a chance to meet some new friends.Read more

    Trip end
    November 10, 2023