Las Herrerías

Seventeen miles were on the docket for today and I was dreading it, so when Laura asked me, “How do you feel about cabbing today?” I was thrilled.

In terms of the Camino de Santiago and how the Pope feels about one’s effort, one MUST walk the last 100 km. We are at about 170 km now so no matter what, we need to stay upright and mobile for that last 100, and if that means taking it easy now and again up to that point, we do. We headed out the door to walk to the next big town, Villafranca, 6 miles away, where we planned to catch a taxi to our hotel for the night.

The sun rises at 8:45 am so even though it was already 7 when we left, it was pitch black outside for the first three miles. When the sun finally started to crack, we could see gorgeous fields of seemingly endless vineyards, and clouds sinking below the mountain tops into the valley below. It was so beautiful and I was gobsmacked again by the fact that I get to go on this long walk in Spain.

When we finally made it to Villafranca we were ready to eat our hiking poles because nothing had been open in Cacabelos or anywhere else in between. We found a restaurant, ordered two cafe con leches, and two pan tostado con tomate y aceite de oliva (toast with tomato and olive oil). Holy moly that shit is tasty.

Laura found an open pharmacy with a pharmacist who clearly has helped a pilgrim or two manage increasingly problematic foot pain and came back laden with cream, KT tape, and a plan.

I decided I had it in me to do another 9 km (about 5 1/2 miles). So she called a taxi and off I headed toward Trabadello. As I headed out of Villafranca, the cutest squirrel I’d ever seen in my life ran past me. He was reddish brown with a black tail and pointed ears. I hollered at him, “OMG look at how cute you are!” but he didn’t stop and say thank you so I assume he only speaks Spanish.

The walk to Trabadello was along a roadway, not especially scenic or calming, a bit on the boring side, but I had my murder podcast keeping me entertained and I got to enjoy the adorable cement trucks they have here in Spain (see the photo). As I got closer to town, I decided to have lunch, rest my feet, and seriously consider going for the full 17 miles. But then my feet started screaming at me and when I arrived, not a single fricking place was open.

So I sat my ass down and called the same taxi Laura used. He came to get me about 30 minutes later. And it was lovely.Read more