Lestedo

Sunrise arrives on the late side this time of year, so I left Mercadoiro in the dark this morning, thankful for the new headlamp I got in Burgos. Even at that early hour, I could hear other pilgrims chatting as they walked.

The sky was starting to lighten up by the time I made it to A Parrocha, but it was still interesting to see modern lights illuminating the old stone structures in the hamlet.

Nothing was open yet in Vilacha as I passed through, so it was on for another few kilometers to find some breakfast.

The descent into Portomarin was surprisingly steep and narrow in some places—it was moving to see where the stone has been worn into “steps” by the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims who have preceded me along this stretch of the Way.

A tall, lengthy bridge leads into Portomarin, testing my dislike of heights. I was grateful for the waist high barriers on the bridge when the wind generated by a speeding truck left me wobbling as I walked across.

The Camino does a dogleg into and out of Portomarin, having pilgrims cross that same river again on a different, lower bridge.

Leaving the town, I encountered the first of many climbs to come throughout the day.

The Camino paralleled the road at times, and it was fun to wave at Allan’s taxi when he passed by around 11:30 a.m. Along other parts of the Way, I saw tractors working the fields as well as some lumber harvesting.

After 26 kilometers, my feet were ready to call it quits when I reached today’s lodging: El Rectoral de Lestedo.

Allan is feeling better, so tomorrow we’ll set out to walk 20 kilometers to Melide, knowing that a taxi can be procured along the Way if need be.Read more