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    • Dag 14

      Pontevendra til Armenteira

      21. april, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      En strevsom dag, med mange høydemeter som skulle mestres, med en forventning om en flott utsikt. Med varme ettermiddager, på rundt 26 grader, er det greit å få unnagjort det meste av gåingen før det blir for varmt. Vi la derfor avsted fra Pontevedra ved 6 tiden, ut i mørke, på vår 23 km vandring til Armenteira. Vi hadde egentlig to muligheter; å følge den sentrale veien til Santiago eller ta en avstikker langs den Spirituelle veien, som er en dag lengre. Vi valgte det siste, siden den veien har en flottere natur. Med flott natur følger krevende terreng og ut av Pontevedra lot ikke bakkene vente på seg. Uten overdrivelse (vil jeg påstå); 17 km oppoverbakke, tildele meget bratt, 3 km bratt nedover og 3 km flatt terreng.
      Etter 9 km var det tid for frokost i Combarro, en vakker liten kystby ved foten av et fjellparti som vi skulle forsere - ca. 450 høydemeter. Etter frokost bar vi trøstig i veie, oppover og oppover og enda mer oppover. Til tross for strevet, ble det en flott tur, med fin utsikt og en hyggelig prat med en og annen pilegrim i pausene. Det er ikke folksomt på denne delen av leden, som mange finner for strevsom.
      Etter hvert kom vi fram til Armenteira, en mindre landsby i høyden, med to spisesteder og et større kloster. Vi stoppet for lunsj, før vi fortsatte til Albergue Armenteira, som ligger en liten km utenfor landsbyen. Senere i dag skal vi utforske klosteret, mer om det i morgen.
      Les mer

    • Dag 15

      No end to unexpected events

      14. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      So, adventures have ensued since I last updated. Expect the unexpected, it's really the motto of the journey, but things happen that would be impossible to anticipate in normal life.

      Today alone we've climbed a mountain, been in an impromptu patio party, and I've been given the pilgrims blessing personally by a Trappist monk. Really you can't make this stuff up, no one would believe you. Unless they had been on Camino I suppose.

      Yesterday we spent the morning touring the 9th century old town of Pontevedra. First stop the Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina, the scallop shaped chapel where we attended the service last night. A happy surprise, there we run into Miriam. She is spending a day alone after leaving Redondela walking with Beatrice and Lidia ( we finally discover the Irish girls name). And she relates, where they stopped for lunch yesterday they sat with a Korean man who pulled out his phone to show our picture and ask if anyone had seen us! Given the brotherhood status Krisli has assigned to himself and Brad, we note he is taking his fraternal duties seriously! Honestly it's heartwarming how these connections can happen. We have so much support and concern from home too, it's just incredible.

      Brad's leg is improving, at least enough for him to continue walking. It's probably not ideal and I'm sure at home he would just be resting it. But he's still unwilling to give up, especially this close.

      The rest of the day was a bit tougher walk to nearby Combarro than we expected. It was hot, lots of hills, and we arrived later than expected. To discover our accommodation was almost impossible to find, we had to phone the host, who didn't speak English, for help. Finally he sent a video for directions. The number by the door had zero relationship to the listed address, and I had about zero patience left!

      But, divested of packs, showered and fresh, we decide to go try and locate Furancho a de Pepe. And arrive just at opening time, where we are served fresh cold, not quite sparkling Albarino wine in the traditional ceramic cuncas. And proceed to enjoy a veritable feast, including a dish we ordered accidentally. Something lost in translation 😊. The place is filling up, we are surrounded by happy animated chatter. All enjoying food and wines made right here, in this modest premises, by the family. Pepe hosts and pours generously, his wife bustling in the kitchen. It's a great end to the day.

      This morning, up and at it, there's a mountain to ascend! At least this time I was counting on a steep climb of 9 to 10 km. After 5 or so though it levelled off for a while. We hopscotch the way with a family of 4 from Singapore, elderly parents and middle age "kids" like us. Walk for a way with an Aussie who's a bit faster than us and goes on ahead.

      We arrive at Armenteira so much earlier than I expected, by 11:30. For once we're early and there's nothing to see, it seems! So we find the only open cafe in town, where our Aussie is already ensconced, drinking a beer. He's waiting for his walking group to arrive, but first come the Singapore family - Singapore in the house, our Aussie calls out to greet them, and there's a bit of a group cheer. Not too much later his group arrives. Two Italian girls and one Hungarian, Irina, Katrina, and Ester. We've seen them over the last couple days too. So it's a big enough group of walkers enjoying the patio sunshine. Spontaneous, enjoyable.

      As most are moving on, we go to the nearby Mosteiro de Armenteira. This Cistercian monastery has been here since around 1162. It's modest, simple, so peaceful. After a look around, we see the monk who gives us the stamp for our credentials. He speaks English perfectly, he's also the chaplain to the nuns here. They make a lot of products in the monastery for sale, soaps, creams, medals, liqueurs. Brad can't resist buying a small bottle of eucalyptus liqueur. We're going to have to leave most of it behind, but oh well.

      And so, a couple of easy km later, we are in much more luxurious accommodations, and it's still early enough to do laundry!

      To round out a big day, we head back to the village for a late dinner, where we run into Beatrice, share dinner and an orujo, traditional Galician liquor, and are back at the hotel in time for a cappuccino sunset.

      And that eucalyptus liqueur? Smelled like a combination of mouthwash and cough syrup😅. The taste? Divine, who knew!
      Les mer

    • Dag 10

      Tag 10 - Combarro - Os Castaños (18km)

      20. mai, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Energielevel = 0%

      Hüt fühli mi zum erste mol so richtig energielos. Obwohl mini Bei überhaupt nöd müed sind, i kei Schmerze und kei einzigi Blottere ha, wehrt sich min Körper geg jedi Bewegig. Ka mi übrigens glücklich schätze, dänn do bini eini vo da einzige 😄 Trotzdem wär ah Laufpause hüt sicher guat gsi, oder min Kopf weiss eifach dasses langsam zu Ende goht und alles am abafahre isch.

      Trotz allem machi mi au hüt wieder uf Weg, dasmol aber erst am 10ni. Die letschte 5Kilometer hend mi total überrascht 😳 nöd umsuscht heisst dä Weg "Espiritual". Da ganz Weg komplett im grüana, selte so öppis schös gseh🥰 Genau da hani brucht hüt und mini Energie isch wieder zu 100% do!

      Langsam söttis jo wüsse, umso schlechter min Tag startet umso besser endet da Tag. Bi doch jedes mol wieder ufs neue überrascht😄

      Mini Unterkunft isch 3km entfernt vom Camino. Da Bsitzer het mi sogar abgholt direkt vom Camino, so hani mir die extra Stund laufa könne sparra. Zum erste mol es Einzelzimmer, was i dringend brucht ha noch da letschte Nächt mit so wenig Schlof. Au do wieder hani Pilger us da letschte Unterkünft wieder ahtroffe. Luschtig wie geg da Schluss alles wieder zämmatrifft und mer sich über die letschte Täg unterhaltet😊 Jetzt eifach nur no relaxe und dSunne gnüsse über da Wihberge 🙌 (bevors morn wieder regnet😅)

      Zum zNacht gits no feini Tapas und Vino Tinto 👌

      Übrigens weissi jetzt au für wa die Stempel guat sind. Und zwor mumer für die letschte 100km jede Tag 2 Stempel ha, damits in Santiago ah Zertifikat git. Tja da hani wohl verpasst 🙈

      #3moredaystogo
      Les mer

    • Dag 16

      Combarro!

      4. juli 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      Our Alburgue, Nuestra Señora del Camino is 23 euros a bed and is so nice! Clean, well thought out, comfortable, everything we need! We have had such good places this whole trip! The town of Combarro is a very quaint village with a marina. The old-town portion is reminiscent of Cinque Terra with its many stairs, flowered porches and restaurants right on the water. Portugal and Spain’s food portions are SO big! I can hardly ever finish!! I ordered a Spanish omelette for dinner and it was like deep dish and the size of my plate! Andrea had the sardines! 😳🫢 You may have noticed small rectangular buildings on tall pedestals, often with crosses on top… those structures were for the storage of grain and other food items to be kept dry and away from rodents!Les mer

    • Dag 5

      Ruta da Pedra e da Agua

      10. oktober 2023, Spania ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      Per sister Paula's suggestion, I heard mass at 730am before going on my camino for the day. I'm so glad I listened to her because I wouldn't have enjoyed it had I gone very early - nothing would be visible. at 8:30am, everything was beautiful.

      This is by far the most beautiful part of my entire camino. 😍
      Les mer

    • Dag 7

      Camino Day 5 to Armenteira

      10. august 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Holly didn’t feel well so she took a cab and I walked alone. Walked at a fast pace and even ran some. Steep, steep hills today! Met lots of pilgrims from all over—Denmark, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Columbia, Italy, Hungary and finally someone from US. Pilgrims blessing service at the monastery in the evening.Les mer

    • Dag 10

      Tag 9 - Arcade - Combarro (29km)

      20. mai, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      Von Arcade uf Pontevedra und vo döt us hani mini Route uf Variante Espiritual gwechslet, wa zuasätzlichi Kilometer bedüted. Söll aber schöner si, mit weniger Lüt und nomol am Meer entlang.

      Hüt überwiegend sunnig gsi 🌞 Endlich! Und Unterkunft het an schöne Usblick ufs Meer🌊

      I minere zweite Nacht hani Sintija vo Lettland kenneglernt. Sie isch die erst jung Frau gsi wo mi motiviert het und isch bereits in Lissabon gstartet. I ha ghofft, dass i sie irgendwenn uf am Camino wieder treffe wird. Und hüt genau ah Wuche spöter hani sie wieder troffe uf am Weg zu de Unterkunft. Per Zuefall hend mer die glich Herberg buecht und sind so am Obed mitanand go Tapas esse 🌶🥂
      Les mer

    • Dag 6

      Combarro to Armenteira

      13. september 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Brierley told us that this was a mountainous slog of a day. Maybe not long on mileage but 'mucho arriba'. We started with a 2k walk back into Combarro, more to get the legs warmed up than anything else. Walking by the side of a busy road is not much fun.

      In Combarro a left turn got us back onto the Camino. From the word go, the climbing started. If you're struggling to picture the steepness think back to the Hovis advert, then tilt the TV by 20 degrees. There were sections where I struggled to stand still.
      Then the sun made its presence known. It always seemed that at the steepest parts there was no shade. But there were things to look at to distract the mind. Many crucerios. Many horreas. Old abandoned doors leading to forgotten places. The view back down to the bay at Combarro.

      Eventually the road was finished with and the path turned to forrest track and senda. With the forrest came shade. And silence. We'd left the hoards behind. The coach pilgrims weren't going to tackle terrain like this. I saw three people the entire day and only spoke with one of them. Bliss.

      The Miradouro do Loureiro was reached but with the sun directly in the eyes the view wasn't that good.

      Back on the path I fancied I could hear something moving in the forest to the right of me. I guess we've always been slightly afraid when in thick forests. Fearful of the unknown and unseen. But I did feel a presence. It was almost a relief when I found eyes looking back at me. Horses!

      Arriba, arriba, arriba. But gentle now. A lovely walk. The next challenge came at Outeiro Do Cribo. Could I find the petrogilfos? Nope. These are carvings made into the rock. Hereabouts. But the exact hereabouts eluded me.

      Enough. Onwards. There then started the first real descent of this route since Vigo. Steep and a mixture of boulders and loose gravel. But thankfully short. Within 20 minutes the Monasterio at Armenteira was reached..... and the Chapel closed. Which was expected, as it's closed to pilgrims until October. But it was possible to walk round the cloisters and the was the promise of a pilgrim blessing at 19:00, with Mass the following morning at 07:30.

      Immediately next to the monastery is a large cantina serving food and drinks. My companions bocadillos were mahoosive and my chicken hidden surprise filled a gap. What's not to like.

      Later, back in the cloister waiting for the chapel doors to open for the evening service it quickly became apparent that the appeal for silence had fallen on deaf ears. The door opened and the surge to 'get a good seat' was frantic. The obligatory chattering started again. The Cistercian sisters gathered and vespers began. Some people left immediately. Others chatted amongst themselves. The pitch started high and got higher as the psalms progressed. This was no Gregorian chant though. Ignoring the instructions in Sacrosanctum Concillium we plodded on with a modern rendition of the Divine Office.

      After the Magnificat we got to the pilgrims blessing. In Spanish, Portuguese, Italian and English.

      "May the light and love of God bless and direct your steps. May the road rise up to meet you. May you open your heart to silence and keep with gratitude the joyus rememberance of the good things that you have encountered. May God carry you in His hands to the arms of St James in Santiago. May you go back to your home full of light and joy. Through Jesus Christ Our Lord"

      Back in my room I got ready for sleep only to have one of the legs fall off the bed. It was going to be a long and difficult night.

      Executive Summary. Some of the best walking I've had on a Camino, but still about 10 degrees too hot.
      Les mer

    • Dag 18

      Nuts! 🌰

      25. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      We went for a walk in the forest and came back with like two kilos of wild chestnut. We also had freshly made churro halfway since there was a man selling them in front of the monastery for 1€, who could ever resist that? Ahh it's hard to not to gain weight here! 😁Les mer

    • Dag 9

      Camino Day 7 to Padron

      12. august 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      We walked two miles to the boat. Took the 4:00 boat to Pontecures which saves us 25k walking. Then walked 9K to Casa Grande de Capadillias. Had an amazing dinner at Buen Camino. Met Phil and Lou again from Eugene on the beach in Villanova de Arousa.Les mer

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