Испания
Meis

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    • День 13

      What to say?

      20 мая, Испания ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      I don't know where to start! Well, I do... The report this morning was that the bears had found Goldilocks' bed and were more than comfortable, thank you very much! It really was the most comfortable night's sleep we've had, I think. And it's a good job, because today's walk involved 21.6km (that's fine!) with much of it on an incline (that's not fine!) 🙄😱😂.
      We started off at 0730 after a quick breakfast of biscuits and little cakes, kindly left by our host, Raquel. Oh, and there was 'real' coffee - apparently that's a thing!😂
      Our route took us through Pontevedra and across the bridge. and on towards the point where we could choose between the Urban or the Rural (Spiritual) Variant. We'd already agreed we were walking the Spiritual Variant, having booked accommodation in Vilanova de Arousa, two days hence. Today's walk was to take us to half way, to Armenteira and the monastery there, where we hoped we'd find a bed for the night.
      Our first 5km was a bit of a march - the way was flat and it was easy to get some steam up - and even the beginning of the Spiritual Variant was pretty flat. As the boys are a lot quicker than we are, they had strict instructions to motor on ahead and stop at the next café, which only happened to be about 1km from our instructions! It was a small hotel that served the most delicious croissants, French-style, not Spanish-style 👏👏👏, so it was great to take the weight off our feet for a while before beginning our next slog. The next shops were about 6km away, and that's where we decided to stock up for lunch. Luke and Ray sped on ahead, ostensibly to get to the Monastery ahead of the crowds and book a few beds! The messages started coming back thick and fast - directions to take when the signs were poor, and then the news that there were no shops open 😱. It was a good job we were all carrying extra provisions (including Snickers, of course) as they became our lunch and/or snacks, and they were really welcome! There were lots of water fountains to begin with, so we drank lots and filled our water bottles up lots, too.
      The path was becoming steeper and steeper - it was one of those 'just around the corner' days. 'Just around the corner' - it'll go down a bit (no), - there'll be a café to stop at (no), - the walking surface will become softer on our poor feet (again, no!)🙄😂. So there was nothing for it but to carry on walking! Julie and I took a few drink breaks and managed to take a few lovely photos (we can always tell how hard a day it is by the number of 📸 we take).
      The boys were nearing Armenteira in their quest for a bed for the night and we still had about 5km to go (probably more!) so we left them to book into the Monastery and not worry about us! We were always doing the Spiritual Variant and are used to having no accommodation when we arrive and thinking on our feet😂.
      The path led us through eucalyptus woods over surfaces ranging from sand, which was lovely and soft on the feet, to large rocks or shingle-y type stuff, which wasn't so lovely. The final 1km was, thankfully, all downhill, but involved dodging between rocks and stones, which was very tricky (especially when you have big feet!)😉
      And then there they were!!!👏👏👏
      Luke very kindly offered me a coke zero, but tells me I was very grumpy and demanded a beer instead 🙄😂. A couple of beers and a menu del dia later and we were ready to find somewhere to rest our weary heads. Thing was, all of the local accommodation was booked up, but Luke managed to find somewhere for us on Booking.com. We are now installed in a 5 bed, 4 bath stone house with a swimming pool, a lot cheaper than staying at the Monastery would have been! The washing's done and drying, and we've been sitting by the pool (the boys risked it😱) dozing or catching up on our blogs, social media, BIAY whilst listening to some very chilling music 👌. The owner very kindly shopped for us, so we're also enjoying a glass or two of local Albariño 😋😋😋.
      We're discussing our starting point(s) tomorrow - our taxi driver is picking us up at 0730ish and delivering Luke and Ray to the Monastery, whilst Julie and I will go a little further and cut off 7.5km 🙄😂. Well! We've already walked about 230km so we deserve this little treat. And at the speed Luke and Ray walk, we'll likely arrive at our next accommodation (all booked) at the same time😂.
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    • День 20

      Pontevedra to Armenteira - Variante Espi

      30 сентября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Tough day today. Woke up with a stupid migraine, so it took a while to get going. Finally left around 10, still feeling a little off colour, but thought we'd take it easy and see how we went. Unfortunately it wasn't a good day to start late, with a long, hilly stage and 32C forecast.
      So we got going, and took it slowly and we took an alternative route called the Variante Espiritual which veers off to the East of the other route towards the coast. It takes 3 days as opposed to 2 on the traditional route and they meet up in Padron, 25km from Santiago.
      It was a hard slog, hot and not much shade and most of the day we seemed to be going uphill, and a lot of that very steeply. We finally made it to the village at around 5:45, had a drink then had another 500m to the albergue. Then had to walk there and back to the cafe for dinner! It was supposed to be a 21km day, but 25km were clocked up on the app.
      Most of the people we have met have taken the traditional route, but we met two of the couples, one American, one Danish, at dinner, and will probably bump into them the next couple of days.
      Supposed to be an easier day tomorrow, so looking forward to that.

      p.s. at an old church we stopped at a wedding was about to start so we stayed for about half an hour to see the bride arrive.
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    • День 14

      Pontevendra til Armenteira

      21 апреля, Испания ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      En strevsom dag, med mange høydemeter som skulle mestres, med en forventning om en flott utsikt. Med varme ettermiddager, på rundt 26 grader, er det greit å få unnagjort det meste av gåingen før det blir for varmt. Vi la derfor avsted fra Pontevedra ved 6 tiden, ut i mørke, på vår 23 km vandring til Armenteira. Vi hadde egentlig to muligheter; å følge den sentrale veien til Santiago eller ta en avstikker langs den Spirituelle veien, som er en dag lengre. Vi valgte det siste, siden den veien har en flottere natur. Med flott natur følger krevende terreng og ut av Pontevedra lot ikke bakkene vente på seg. Uten overdrivelse (vil jeg påstå); 17 km oppoverbakke, tildele meget bratt, 3 km bratt nedover og 3 km flatt terreng.
      Etter 9 km var det tid for frokost i Combarro, en vakker liten kystby ved foten av et fjellparti som vi skulle forsere - ca. 450 høydemeter. Etter frokost bar vi trøstig i veie, oppover og oppover og enda mer oppover. Til tross for strevet, ble det en flott tur, med fin utsikt og en hyggelig prat med en og annen pilegrim i pausene. Det er ikke folksomt på denne delen av leden, som mange finner for strevsom.
      Etter hvert kom vi fram til Armenteira, en mindre landsby i høyden, med to spisesteder og et større kloster. Vi stoppet for lunsj, før vi fortsatte til Albergue Armenteira, som ligger en liten km utenfor landsbyen. Senere i dag skal vi utforske klosteret, mer om det i morgen.
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    • День 15

      No end to unexpected events

      14 июня 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      So, adventures have ensued since I last updated. Expect the unexpected, it's really the motto of the journey, but things happen that would be impossible to anticipate in normal life.

      Today alone we've climbed a mountain, been in an impromptu patio party, and I've been given the pilgrims blessing personally by a Trappist monk. Really you can't make this stuff up, no one would believe you. Unless they had been on Camino I suppose.

      Yesterday we spent the morning touring the 9th century old town of Pontevedra. First stop the Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina, the scallop shaped chapel where we attended the service last night. A happy surprise, there we run into Miriam. She is spending a day alone after leaving Redondela walking with Beatrice and Lidia ( we finally discover the Irish girls name). And she relates, where they stopped for lunch yesterday they sat with a Korean man who pulled out his phone to show our picture and ask if anyone had seen us! Given the brotherhood status Krisli has assigned to himself and Brad, we note he is taking his fraternal duties seriously! Honestly it's heartwarming how these connections can happen. We have so much support and concern from home too, it's just incredible.

      Brad's leg is improving, at least enough for him to continue walking. It's probably not ideal and I'm sure at home he would just be resting it. But he's still unwilling to give up, especially this close.

      The rest of the day was a bit tougher walk to nearby Combarro than we expected. It was hot, lots of hills, and we arrived later than expected. To discover our accommodation was almost impossible to find, we had to phone the host, who didn't speak English, for help. Finally he sent a video for directions. The number by the door had zero relationship to the listed address, and I had about zero patience left!

      But, divested of packs, showered and fresh, we decide to go try and locate Furancho a de Pepe. And arrive just at opening time, where we are served fresh cold, not quite sparkling Albarino wine in the traditional ceramic cuncas. And proceed to enjoy a veritable feast, including a dish we ordered accidentally. Something lost in translation 😊. The place is filling up, we are surrounded by happy animated chatter. All enjoying food and wines made right here, in this modest premises, by the family. Pepe hosts and pours generously, his wife bustling in the kitchen. It's a great end to the day.

      This morning, up and at it, there's a mountain to ascend! At least this time I was counting on a steep climb of 9 to 10 km. After 5 or so though it levelled off for a while. We hopscotch the way with a family of 4 from Singapore, elderly parents and middle age "kids" like us. Walk for a way with an Aussie who's a bit faster than us and goes on ahead.

      We arrive at Armenteira so much earlier than I expected, by 11:30. For once we're early and there's nothing to see, it seems! So we find the only open cafe in town, where our Aussie is already ensconced, drinking a beer. He's waiting for his walking group to arrive, but first come the Singapore family - Singapore in the house, our Aussie calls out to greet them, and there's a bit of a group cheer. Not too much later his group arrives. Two Italian girls and one Hungarian, Irina, Katrina, and Ester. We've seen them over the last couple days too. So it's a big enough group of walkers enjoying the patio sunshine. Spontaneous, enjoyable.

      As most are moving on, we go to the nearby Mosteiro de Armenteira. This Cistercian monastery has been here since around 1162. It's modest, simple, so peaceful. After a look around, we see the monk who gives us the stamp for our credentials. He speaks English perfectly, he's also the chaplain to the nuns here. They make a lot of products in the monastery for sale, soaps, creams, medals, liqueurs. Brad can't resist buying a small bottle of eucalyptus liqueur. We're going to have to leave most of it behind, but oh well.

      And so, a couple of easy km later, we are in much more luxurious accommodations, and it's still early enough to do laundry!

      To round out a big day, we head back to the village for a late dinner, where we run into Beatrice, share dinner and an orujo, traditional Galician liquor, and are back at the hotel in time for a cappuccino sunset.

      And that eucalyptus liqueur? Smelled like a combination of mouthwash and cough syrup😅. The taste? Divine, who knew!
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    • День 10

      Tag 10 - Combarro - Os Castaños (18km)

      20 мая, Испания ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Energielevel = 0%

      Hüt fühli mi zum erste mol so richtig energielos. Obwohl mini Bei überhaupt nöd müed sind, i kei Schmerze und kei einzigi Blottere ha, wehrt sich min Körper geg jedi Bewegig. Ka mi übrigens glücklich schätze, dänn do bini eini vo da einzige 😄 Trotzdem wär ah Laufpause hüt sicher guat gsi, oder min Kopf weiss eifach dasses langsam zu Ende goht und alles am abafahre isch.

      Trotz allem machi mi au hüt wieder uf Weg, dasmol aber erst am 10ni. Die letschte 5Kilometer hend mi total überrascht 😳 nöd umsuscht heisst dä Weg "Espiritual". Da ganz Weg komplett im grüana, selte so öppis schös gseh🥰 Genau da hani brucht hüt und mini Energie isch wieder zu 100% do!

      Langsam söttis jo wüsse, umso schlechter min Tag startet umso besser endet da Tag. Bi doch jedes mol wieder ufs neue überrascht😄

      Mini Unterkunft isch 3km entfernt vom Camino. Da Bsitzer het mi sogar abgholt direkt vom Camino, so hani mir die extra Stund laufa könne sparra. Zum erste mol es Einzelzimmer, was i dringend brucht ha noch da letschte Nächt mit so wenig Schlof. Au do wieder hani Pilger us da letschte Unterkünft wieder ahtroffe. Luschtig wie geg da Schluss alles wieder zämmatrifft und mer sich über die letschte Täg unterhaltet😊 Jetzt eifach nur no relaxe und dSunne gnüsse über da Wihberge 🙌 (bevors morn wieder regnet😅)

      Zum zNacht gits no feini Tapas und Vino Tinto 👌

      Übrigens weissi jetzt au für wa die Stempel guat sind. Und zwor mumer für die letschte 100km jede Tag 2 Stempel ha, damits in Santiago ah Zertifikat git. Tja da hani wohl verpasst 🙈

      #3moredaystogo
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    • День 16

      Combarro!

      4 июля 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      Our Alburgue, Nuestra Señora del Camino is 23 euros a bed and is so nice! Clean, well thought out, comfortable, everything we need! We have had such good places this whole trip! The town of Combarro is a very quaint village with a marina. The old-town portion is reminiscent of Cinque Terra with its many stairs, flowered porches and restaurants right on the water. Portugal and Spain’s food portions are SO big! I can hardly ever finish!! I ordered a Spanish omelette for dinner and it was like deep dish and the size of my plate! Andrea had the sardines! 😳🫢 You may have noticed small rectangular buildings on tall pedestals, often with crosses on top… those structures were for the storage of grain and other food items to be kept dry and away from rodents!Читать далее

    • День 5

      Ruta da Pedra e da Agua

      10 октября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      Per sister Paula's suggestion, I heard mass at 730am before going on my camino for the day. I'm so glad I listened to her because I wouldn't have enjoyed it had I gone very early - nothing would be visible. at 8:30am, everything was beautiful.

      This is by far the most beautiful part of my entire camino. 😍
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    • День 7

      Camino Day 5 to Armenteira

      10 августа 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Holly didn’t feel well so she took a cab and I walked alone. Walked at a fast pace and even ran some. Steep, steep hills today! Met lots of pilgrims from all over—Denmark, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Columbia, Italy, Hungary and finally someone from US. Pilgrims blessing service at the monastery in the evening.Читать далее

    • День 10

      Tag 9 - Arcade - Combarro (29km)

      20 мая, Испания ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      Von Arcade uf Pontevedra und vo döt us hani mini Route uf Variante Espiritual gwechslet, wa zuasätzlichi Kilometer bedüted. Söll aber schöner si, mit weniger Lüt und nomol am Meer entlang.

      Hüt überwiegend sunnig gsi 🌞 Endlich! Und Unterkunft het an schöne Usblick ufs Meer🌊

      I minere zweite Nacht hani Sintija vo Lettland kenneglernt. Sie isch die erst jung Frau gsi wo mi motiviert het und isch bereits in Lissabon gstartet. I ha ghofft, dass i sie irgendwenn uf am Camino wieder treffe wird. Und hüt genau ah Wuche spöter hani sie wieder troffe uf am Weg zu de Unterkunft. Per Zuefall hend mer die glich Herberg buecht und sind so am Obed mitanand go Tapas esse 🌶🥂
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    • День 6

      Combarro to Armenteira

      13 сентября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Brierley told us that this was a mountainous slog of a day. Maybe not long on mileage but 'mucho arriba'. We started with a 2k walk back into Combarro, more to get the legs warmed up than anything else. Walking by the side of a busy road is not much fun.

      In Combarro a left turn got us back onto the Camino. From the word go, the climbing started. If you're struggling to picture the steepness think back to the Hovis advert, then tilt the TV by 20 degrees. There were sections where I struggled to stand still.
      Then the sun made its presence known. It always seemed that at the steepest parts there was no shade. But there were things to look at to distract the mind. Many crucerios. Many horreas. Old abandoned doors leading to forgotten places. The view back down to the bay at Combarro.

      Eventually the road was finished with and the path turned to forrest track and senda. With the forrest came shade. And silence. We'd left the hoards behind. The coach pilgrims weren't going to tackle terrain like this. I saw three people the entire day and only spoke with one of them. Bliss.

      The Miradouro do Loureiro was reached but with the sun directly in the eyes the view wasn't that good.

      Back on the path I fancied I could hear something moving in the forest to the right of me. I guess we've always been slightly afraid when in thick forests. Fearful of the unknown and unseen. But I did feel a presence. It was almost a relief when I found eyes looking back at me. Horses!

      Arriba, arriba, arriba. But gentle now. A lovely walk. The next challenge came at Outeiro Do Cribo. Could I find the petrogilfos? Nope. These are carvings made into the rock. Hereabouts. But the exact hereabouts eluded me.

      Enough. Onwards. There then started the first real descent of this route since Vigo. Steep and a mixture of boulders and loose gravel. But thankfully short. Within 20 minutes the Monasterio at Armenteira was reached..... and the Chapel closed. Which was expected, as it's closed to pilgrims until October. But it was possible to walk round the cloisters and the was the promise of a pilgrim blessing at 19:00, with Mass the following morning at 07:30.

      Immediately next to the monastery is a large cantina serving food and drinks. My companions bocadillos were mahoosive and my chicken hidden surprise filled a gap. What's not to like.

      Later, back in the cloister waiting for the chapel doors to open for the evening service it quickly became apparent that the appeal for silence had fallen on deaf ears. The door opened and the surge to 'get a good seat' was frantic. The obligatory chattering started again. The Cistercian sisters gathered and vespers began. Some people left immediately. Others chatted amongst themselves. The pitch started high and got higher as the psalms progressed. This was no Gregorian chant though. Ignoring the instructions in Sacrosanctum Concillium we plodded on with a modern rendition of the Divine Office.

      After the Magnificat we got to the pilgrims blessing. In Spanish, Portuguese, Italian and English.

      "May the light and love of God bless and direct your steps. May the road rise up to meet you. May you open your heart to silence and keep with gratitude the joyus rememberance of the good things that you have encountered. May God carry you in His hands to the arms of St James in Santiago. May you go back to your home full of light and joy. Through Jesus Christ Our Lord"

      Back in my room I got ready for sleep only to have one of the legs fall off the bed. It was going to be a long and difficult night.

      Executive Summary. Some of the best walking I've had on a Camino, but still about 10 degrees too hot.
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