Spain
Monument to Fallen Heroes

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    • Day 39

      Santiago

      June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Friends.

      I first met Diana in Pamplona. We both stumbled upon the same cafe looking for food at the impossible hour of 530 or 6pm. Diana followed me in the line, and asked if I spoke English, and when I said, "yes," she asked what I was eating. When I told her, "I have no idea!", she ordered something equally unrecognizable, and a glass or two of wine later, we are friends.

      That same night, Diana is also responsible for helping me procure a Spanish SIM because it is impossible to rely strictly on wifi on this track. About a month later, when some of us were trying to share photos using air drop, when Diana learned my phone was called "I phone 45", she says to me, "give me your phone." Until yesterday my phone has been renamed to "Brenda is hot". But it does not end there...last night, our last night together in Santiago, she once again has my phone, and now my phone is "Brenda is hot and is enough". I am not going to change it. Because I think both are true...I am maybe a wee bit "hot" for a 60 year old, and I am definitely "enough."

      The Australian girls (Deanne, Veronica and Bernadette) and I connected somewhere before Leon, and our paths segued here and there, but we spent the last 8 or 9 days on the trail into Santiago, sometimes walking as a group and sometimes walking our own journeys. Many glasses of wine later, many tapas later we are friends. I am hoping Deanne and I will still connect again in Finisterre where she left for two days before me.

      Sherri and Bob are from Summerland, and we met one day in a taxi. Our tour company had us sharing a taxi taking us all back to our last point on the trail after having the night in another nearby town. Sherri and I still lament that we can't get dinner before 8 pm! You'd think we would have it figured it out by now.

      Annette and Martina from Norway...mom and daughter making the trek sometimes on foot, sometimes on bicycles! What a team! They remind me a great deal of travelling with my daughters, and how much I would enjoy travelling with them again soon.

      Barbara and Martin from Germany. Our tracks were nearly the same from the beginning, so what began as occasional conversations over beer and wine became Martin hauling suitcases up many flights of stairs for his "princesses".

      Julie and David from Australia. We met the first time over a dinner with them, myself and a few others from Germany. It is a small world because after they finish the Camino and a holiday, they are heading to Edmonton to see their son and grandchildren. I hope to catch up with them in Calgary during the Stampede!

      Kate and Bob from Vancouver. A father and daughter team. Though I never stood a chance keeping up with the two of them, we shared stories of woe over shin splints and shoe challenges and a meal or two!

      I met Theresa in Logrono along a very crowded tapas street. We ate mushrooms soaked in butter on a kabob on a slice of baguette, roasted peppers topped with a just soft egg on a baguette and so much more...all soaking up the copious glasses of red wine. Theresa and I walked one long day together into Burgos, and were glad of the company navigating the complicated and very industrial route into Burgos. Theresa lives in Toronto, another fellow Canadian on the Camino.

      Yola and Kobis from New Zealand, but their accents are definitely South African, I met early on the Camino. They are keen, enthusiastic, and a soothing presence to our group. Diana and Peter enjoyed the evening with them before they left Santiago, and Kobis asked Diana to relay a message when she saw me next. "Tell Brenda that she will find what she is looking for when she stops looking." I cried because is it so obvious? Kobis and Yola have a wonderful kind presence about them, and I find it reassuring that kind people recognize the pain in others and quietly navigate.

      I met Lorill and Kathy early on the Camino, and saw them again in Leon, and knew from our discussions that we would be walking to Finisterre at the exact same time. We also shared the same tour company, and so our itineraries were nearly identical. On the couple of days we walked together, we wrote a book or two...one a Camino murder mystery, and the other a brochure for renting a husband. For the men in my life reading this blog, you may find yourself in my brochure. We laughed and took nothing seriously, not even ourselves...I learned a-lot from these two lovely ladies and their candid discussion we shared along the last 100 km.

      I walked with Adam (England) to Finisterre. Enjoyed dinners and he showed me the best beach in town. I didn't walk with Kevin (Long island USA but originally an Irishman born and and raised in the Bronx) because he walked the Primotivo Camino and I walked Frances, but no matter we enjoyed our walks and meals in Finisterre even if he is a democrat!

      I walked with Barbara from Baltimore, Nicole from California, Ricardo from Guatemala, Jim from California, Holgart from Germany, Rainier from Germany, Sonia from Houston, Darlene from Florida, Kelly from Portland...and so many others. We may have shared a simple "Bon Camino" to a complex conversation of why we are here on the Camino followed by a simple "Bon Camino".

      Bon Camino my friends! May your next journeys be blessed by the experiences of this journey.
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    • Day 38

      A Rua to Santiago de Compostella

      June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Arrived after 820 km! What an unbelievable experience, and I can't even believe I am here. In fact I am writing this 2 days later, and I am still in a bit of shock. Today I had quite a bit of rain upon arriving in Santiago, but somewhere around 15 km into the trail, it eased off, so I was not still soaked when I arrived in the plaza.

      I was met in the plaza by Veronica ( and her husband who brought champagne), Bernadette, and Deanne. Also in the plaza was Barbara and Martin.

      On June 8th, the next day, I returned to plaza, and met Diana and Yola and Kobus.

      When we all first met on the Way, we shared our stories around our various foot and blister injuries. We shared our challenges of the relentless hills and worse, the relentless downhills. We grumbled about the pilgrim meals, and rejoiced in other pilgrim meals. But no matter how many kilometres were accomplished that day, each day was celebrated with a glass of wine or two or three, and for the times our paths segued, a quick text checking in and updating on the route ahead or behind.

      Whether a pilgrim walks alone or with a group, there is always a confidence that you are never very far from another pilgrim. I walked alone quite a bit, and even have been accused on going rogue for a while in Leon...but with the love and support of my friends on the Way, I did find my way back to the trail. I am forever thankful for my dear friends on this Way who were unconditionally supportive and a beacon when the Way became hard.

      I arrived. I discovered the freedom to be myself. I am forgiving. I can create peace, unity and happiness. I have felt the love of God. I know God is the author of my journeys. I have found companionship regardless. I am walking a path and where this journey ends, another begins. The real journey begins after it ends.
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    • Day 37

      Arzua to A Rua

      June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      For an unknown reason, I just assumed that the last 100 km would be easier than the other 700. I thought this because perhaps as we approached the coast, we would be nearer sea level, and it would be flatter. I thought because it is so tourist like that why would tourists of the Camino flock to the last 100 km if it was hard? I thought we left the mountains and the peaks in the other kilometres. I was wrong. The last three days have been quite difficult with hills and descents. The hills are as steep as they were in the beginning and the descents just as steep. Today, I only walked about 18 km so it felt much easier, but definitely, am beginning to feel an accumulated tiredness from the last 800 km. Tomorrow is the final day on the Camino Frances and it will be about 20 km to Santiago.

      Today was a day of capturing some images because realizing that this is ending, is becoming real. When I walk to the coast, I expect the scenery to be more rugged and exposed compared to the quaint and pleasant forests and villages we have passed. I had time today to spend some time in a restaurant and have a pilgrim lunch. It was still quite warm today with 95% humidity, and despite some of the hills a really pleasant day.

      I arrived at my hotel at the beginning of the village Rua which is also popular with tourists travelling by car. I am thankful to be able to stay here tonight and not have to venture outside the hotel for dinner. I checked in quickly and then joined my German friends for a beer on the patio. Also thankfully, they have some cortisone cream for my hiker's rash I have developed, so hopefully that helps a rather angry rash.

      So over the last 800 km, there are a few things I have noticed time and time again, and they have become quite ordinary and expected during the last weeks, but I thought today would be a good time to get it down on this page. For example, historically, and currently, the Spaniards plant their trees in clear rows. The forests are often organized in lines, even very old trees. The flowers...the first weeks were filled with poppies, but also all along were roses. Roses covering walls, growing up trees. Recently, I am seeing more hot weather plants like a hydrangea, and I even saw a palm tree today.

      Today also seemed to be a day of wisdom. We passed the wall of wisdom. Later on a fellow who wrote a book on the Camino was set up along the Way, offering his book for a donation! I donated, and am looking forward to reading about his experiences, especially since now it will resonate with me more clearly since I just walked it myself.

      The forecast for tomorrow into Santiago is rain! I have not walked much in the rain yet, so I suppose it is about time I experience the full scope of a Spanish rain as I walk toward Santiago.
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    • Day 20

      Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun

      May 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      The weather is turning fine, and the trail today was much the same as the previous days with a few more rolling hills, and a few more curves ahead.

      I decided today, and once I arrived in Sahagun at the hotel here in Sahagun that tomorrow, I am going to move onto Leon. The itinerary has me walking to Leon over the next coming days, but I feel I have seen and experienced as much as I need on this part of the Camino and because my shin is beginning to give me a bit of grief, my time is better spent in Leon.

      It is one of the challenges of having a booked itinerary. So while, I do not have to deal with the "bed rush" daily in some way or another, I lose the flexibility to experience the Camino as I need to experience it. I don't mind sacrificing a few days on the trail for a more satisfying experience if I push ahead to Leon.

      Today on my walk, I saw "real" bodegas...caves cut into the hills where locals store their wine, meat and cheese. Scattered around the Camino are hermitages. Given that there are quite a lot of them, I think that in the 13th century, give or take some, if men or women did not want to marry, nor did they want to join a monastery or a convent becoming a hermit was a choice. The site of the hermitage in the picture is unusual in that it belonged to a woman. This site is also interesting in that in 2021 Roman ruins were discovered. These ruins are part of a roman road or a dwelling that they have so far unearthed. It is not an active archaeological site, but there for anyone to see and walk around. I find it interesting how civilizations build on top of each other. We also learned this when travelling in Italy and the same is also true in Spain.
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    • Day 3

      train to seville

      May 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      great way to see the country side. saw many small hamlets surrounded by fields and groves of trees. definitely lots of olive trees, grey leaf, but there was another taller crooked trunked tree that looked evergreen. not sure what tree that was. great hills and what looked like basalt columnar rocks.....is this like the chilcotan plateau and part of an old lava flood plain??? more research needed 😁 later. looked like some nice walks out of a train stop at I think porto lenno. saw purple flowering plant along disturbed areas and at least 2 types of pine trees tall and airy and short and squat. unfortunately we were facing backwards and I started getting motion sickness by the time we got to cordoba. next time we will have to see how you book a seat that faces forward!Read more

    • Day 121

      Last Sea Day to Senegal - Day 120

      April 20 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Why the ocean is blue
      Poets, artists and journeymen have long regaled the soothing beauty of the "ocean blue." It is a common belief that the oceans of the world are merely reflecting the color of the sky, like a vast global mirror. But to understand exactly why the ocean appears blue —just as a rose appears red and an orange appears orange— helps us to remember how the colors of the light spectrum work.
      The light spectrum consists of seven wavelengths of
      "spectral colors," most of which are absorbed by the atmosphere and by the molecules that comprise the physical world. The unabsorbed colors are reflected back to us. The rose is red because its petals have absorbed every color in the spectrum except red.
      The water molecules of the ocean absorb the wavelengths of red, orange, yellow, green, indigo and violet, but bounce back the wavelengths associated with a blue hue. Of course, this is not always the case.
      Various water depths or the amount of light being filtered through the atmosphere can create different shades of blue. This explains, for instance, why far-flung tropical waters that surround unspoiled islands often appear turquoise or indigo: the pristine air and shallow depths alter both the light coming into the water and
      the spectral color being reflected. Green or even red oceans are explained by algae or sediment floating near the surface. The molecules of these objects absorb the blue and reflect back their own color composition. Pictures below are from Senegal
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    • Day 118

      Null Island

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Today we visited Null Island. Never heard of it? Well, it doesn't exist. It was created to describe the intersection of latitude 0 and longitude 0. There is a buoy, called Soul Bouy, placed there in 2009. The previous buoy disappeared in 2008 and the current one hasn't been seen in months and hasn't sent weather data in 2 months. It is part of the PIRATA system, a set of 17 buoys installed in the tropical Atlantic Ocean since 1997 by the United States, France, and Brazil to measure weather data. Like the other buoys in the system, it is named after a musical genre.

      Our ship did a repeated one mile circle around where it should be looking for it to no avail, but because we crossed 0,0 we have been inducted into the Order of the Emerald Shellback.
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    • Day 15

      Bergen trek

      July 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 90 °F

      While Chuck and I were wandering around Bergen looking for where Grieg was born, we also saw the fish market, the beautiful buildings along the waterfront and beautiful flowers and statues. We logged 15,000 steps in a day that was typical Bergen weather …. rain, drizzle, overcast, more rain, drizzle and clouds. Hope you enjoy our random photos of the day.Read more

    • Day 29

      Molinasca to Villafranca del Bierzo

      May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 20 °C

      Diana and I started out our 30+ km day and by 24km were too distracted by the wineries en route that we taxied the last 9 km to Villafranca del Bierzo. But it is just as well because just as we arrived in town, the thunderclouds were rolling in, and soon it was pouring rain.

      Today’s walk was different. It was largely from town to town. Some of the towns were more like cities and more industrial or touristy, and others were more quaint and less populated.

      At one small city, the monument of the weight lifter is because during an olympic game, this small town in northern Spain was the home to an olympic champion.

      At another town, we passed an “energy museum”…it did not look terribly busy (lol)…but by contrast we were looking forward to the seeing the Castillo de los Templarios, but it is closed on Mondays. “Walk across the bridge to the massive twin - towered gate, and feel immediately transported to the 12th and 13th centuries, the times of knights, pilgrims and passionate causes.” (Moon, Camino Santiago). The Templar knights ruled from this city of Ponferrada where they protected pilgrims and other sacred interests. In other posts I mention the Templar knights as a strong presence throughout the Camino. This castle was one of their headquarters.

      At Fuentes Nuevas, there was suppose to be a winery near the end of town, we did not find that winery, so settled for a sandwich and an omelette and a glass of orange juice. Orange juice is a staple in Spain. Squeezed fresh from oranges, it is offered nearly anywhere a person buys food and drink.

      But only 1.5 km later in Camponaraya, the Cooperativo Vinas del Bierzo, pilgrims are welcomed to stop and learn about regional wines and sample. Needless to say, it was busy with pilgrims. As Diana poured over the maps (because I still can’t be trusted with a map), and we contemplated the next 15 or more kilometers in 32 degrees and full sun, we decided that we would venture forth through the vineyards to the next town, and then decide whether to finish the 32 km or take a taxi.

      Lucky for us in Cacabelos, there was a lovely garden, bar, restaurant and shop. So after stopping for more wine and more lunch, we hired a taxi for the last 9km. During lunch, I noticed another solo female pilgrim traveler, and I also noticed that she was definitely very sore. Diana suggested that she taxi with us, and when we were able to communicate clearly between our English and her German that we were inviting her to share a taxi, she immediately said, “I take taxi with you!”

      She didn’t have a reservation in Villafranca, and though people have struggled with reservations time and time again, consistently, if a pilgrim is without a bed, the church or albergue owners will reach out to the larger community to support a pilgrim. I heard the other night that an albergue owner took 4 or 5 pilgrims to his own home rather than have them walk more or spend the night homeless.

      At this point on the Camino, many are new to the Camino because they joined the Camino at Leon. So once again, we are hearing conversations about too much luggage, too heavy backpacks, blistered and raw feet, shoe challenges.

      While both Diana and I, today, struggled with our feet, me with some type of bruising at the back of my heel and Diana with a blister upon a blister ( another reason we did not walk the additional kilometres), we feel more confident about walking despite that it hurts and is uncomfortable. Look at the picture where I am wearing my tevas. By 3 km today, I declared defeat with my shoes, and switched out to my tevas. Some days are like that! At some point when you have walked over 500 km, your brain/body finds a compromise, and you settle into the walk, but it is important to be cognizant of what your feet can take even at this point. There are still 200 kms to go!
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    • Day 6

      patio de las doncellas

      May 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      this may be my favorite room with the central pool and horseshoe arches.
      this was the centre of king Pedro's palace. pedro I abandoned his wife and moved to the alcazar with his mistress Doña María de Padilla. the courtyard was originally a single story and Charles vi -isabella's grandson and katherine of aragons nephew-added the upper renaissance 16th century storey.

      mudejar style lobed arches and elaborate tracery. renaissance style rounded arches and less declaration- rick steeves
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    Monument to Fallen Heroes

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