Spain
Monument to Fallen Heroes

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    • Day 37

      Arzua to A Rua

      June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      For an unknown reason, I just assumed that the last 100 km would be easier than the other 700. I thought this because perhaps as we approached the coast, we would be nearer sea level, and it would be flatter. I thought because it is so tourist like that why would tourists of the Camino flock to the last 100 km if it was hard? I thought we left the mountains and the peaks in the other kilometres. I was wrong. The last three days have been quite difficult with hills and descents. The hills are as steep as they were in the beginning and the descents just as steep. Today, I only walked about 18 km so it felt much easier, but definitely, am beginning to feel an accumulated tiredness from the last 800 km. Tomorrow is the final day on the Camino Frances and it will be about 20 km to Santiago.

      Today was a day of capturing some images because realizing that this is ending, is becoming real. When I walk to the coast, I expect the scenery to be more rugged and exposed compared to the quaint and pleasant forests and villages we have passed. I had time today to spend some time in a restaurant and have a pilgrim lunch. It was still quite warm today with 95% humidity, and despite some of the hills a really pleasant day.

      I arrived at my hotel at the beginning of the village Rua which is also popular with tourists travelling by car. I am thankful to be able to stay here tonight and not have to venture outside the hotel for dinner. I checked in quickly and then joined my German friends for a beer on the patio. Also thankfully, they have some cortisone cream for my hiker's rash I have developed, so hopefully that helps a rather angry rash.

      So over the last 800 km, there are a few things I have noticed time and time again, and they have become quite ordinary and expected during the last weeks, but I thought today would be a good time to get it down on this page. For example, historically, and currently, the Spaniards plant their trees in clear rows. The forests are often organized in lines, even very old trees. The flowers...the first weeks were filled with poppies, but also all along were roses. Roses covering walls, growing up trees. Recently, I am seeing more hot weather plants like a hydrangea, and I even saw a palm tree today.

      Today also seemed to be a day of wisdom. We passed the wall of wisdom. Later on a fellow who wrote a book on the Camino was set up along the Way, offering his book for a donation! I donated, and am looking forward to reading about his experiences, especially since now it will resonate with me more clearly since I just walked it myself.

      The forecast for tomorrow into Santiago is rain! I have not walked much in the rain yet, so I suppose it is about time I experience the full scope of a Spanish rain as I walk toward Santiago.
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    • Day 8

      A day in Madeira

      September 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Madeira’s lush vegetation was quite the contrast to the barren beauty of the Canary Islands. We knew that wine was a primary export, but not that bananas are the island’s next largest export: bananas thrive on the island’s steep terrain.

      We got a nice taste of the island on a jeep safari. Our first stop was at Cámara da Lobos, a touristy fishing village. Small fishing boats bobbed in the protected harbor while many colorful art installations swayed gently overhead between the buildings.

      From there, our jeep climbed steep, windy roads until we were at cloud level to visit the Miradouro Girão, a glass-floored skywalk 1,500 feet above the ocean. The water below was so clear that coral heads were readily visible. Well worth the 2€ entrance fee.

      Traveling off-road through a forest of eucalyptus and acacia trees was next up on our tour. Hydrangeas, fuschia, and belladonna flowers were frequent sights along our dirt trail as well as along the island’s narrow paved roads. Two and three story houses with terracotta roofs abounded on the steep hills, with myriad steep stone staircases leading to terraced plots of land.

      After a restorative stop at a roadside cafe for coffee and pastel de nata, the Portuguese custard-filled pastries that seem to elicit rather strong opinions —we enjoyed them!—we continued on to the Faja dos Padres cable car. Our tour didn’t allot time to actually ride the cable car, which didn’t hurt our feelings. Simply seeing the steep drop from a small overlook was enough.

      Madeira turned out to be one of those destinations that we can envision returning to for a lengthier stay. Today we’re en route to Lisbon, for another taste of Portugal.
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    • Day 39

      Santiago

      June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Friends.

      I first met Diana in Pamplona. We both stumbled upon the same cafe looking for food at the impossible hour of 530 or 6pm. Diana followed me in the line, and asked if I spoke English, and when I said, "yes," she asked what I was eating. When I told her, "I have no idea!", she ordered something equally unrecognizable, and a glass or two of wine later, we are friends.

      That same night, Diana is also responsible for helping me procure a Spanish SIM because it is impossible to rely strictly on wifi on this track. About a month later, when some of us were trying to share photos using air drop, when Diana learned my phone was called "I phone 45", she says to me, "give me your phone." Until yesterday my phone has been renamed to "Brenda is hot". But it does not end there...last night, our last night together in Santiago, she once again has my phone, and now my phone is "Brenda is hot and is enough". I am not going to change it. Because I think both are true...I am maybe a wee bit "hot" for a 60 year old, and I am definitely "enough."

      The Australian girls (Deanne, Veronica and Bernadette) and I connected somewhere before Leon, and our paths segued here and there, but we spent the last 8 or 9 days on the trail into Santiago, sometimes walking as a group and sometimes walking our own journeys. Many glasses of wine later, many tapas later we are friends. I am hoping Deanne and I will still connect again in Finisterre where she left for two days before me.

      Sherri and Bob are from Summerland, and we met one day in a taxi. Our tour company had us sharing a taxi taking us all back to our last point on the trail after having the night in another nearby town. Sherri and I still lament that we can't get dinner before 8 pm! You'd think we would have it figured it out by now.

      Annette and Martina from Norway...mom and daughter making the trek sometimes on foot, sometimes on bicycles! What a team! They remind me a great deal of travelling with my daughters, and how much I would enjoy travelling with them again soon.

      Barbara and Martin from Germany. Our tracks were nearly the same from the beginning, so what began as occasional conversations over beer and wine became Martin hauling suitcases up many flights of stairs for his "princesses".

      Julie and David from Australia. We met the first time over a dinner with them, myself and a few others from Germany. It is a small world because after they finish the Camino and a holiday, they are heading to Edmonton to see their son and grandchildren. I hope to catch up with them in Calgary during the Stampede!

      Kate and Bob from Vancouver. A father and daughter team. Though I never stood a chance keeping up with the two of them, we shared stories of woe over shin splints and shoe challenges and a meal or two!

      I met Theresa in Logrono along a very crowded tapas street. We ate mushrooms soaked in butter on a kabob on a slice of baguette, roasted peppers topped with a just soft egg on a baguette and so much more...all soaking up the copious glasses of red wine. Theresa and I walked one long day together into Burgos, and were glad of the company navigating the complicated and very industrial route into Burgos. Theresa lives in Toronto, another fellow Canadian on the Camino.

      Yola and Kobis from New Zealand, but their accents are definitely South African, I met early on the Camino. They are keen, enthusiastic, and a soothing presence to our group. Diana and Peter enjoyed the evening with them before they left Santiago, and Kobis asked Diana to relay a message when she saw me next. "Tell Brenda that she will find what she is looking for when she stops looking." I cried because is it so obvious? Kobis and Yola have a wonderful kind presence about them, and I find it reassuring that kind people recognize the pain in others and quietly navigate.

      I met Lorill and Kathy early on the Camino, and saw them again in Leon, and knew from our discussions that we would be walking to Finisterre at the exact same time. We also shared the same tour company, and so our itineraries were nearly identical. On the couple of days we walked together, we wrote a book or two...one a Camino murder mystery, and the other a brochure for renting a husband. For the men in my life reading this blog, you may find yourself in my brochure. We laughed and took nothing seriously, not even ourselves...I learned a-lot from these two lovely ladies and their candid discussion we shared along the last 100 km.

      I walked with Adam (England) to Finisterre. Enjoyed dinners and he showed me the best beach in town. I didn't walk with Kevin (Long island USA but originally an Irishman born and and raised in the Bronx) because he walked the Primotivo Camino and I walked Frances, but no matter we enjoyed our walks and meals in Finisterre even if he is a democrat!

      I walked with Barbara from Baltimore, Nicole from California, Ricardo from Guatemala, Jim from California, Holgart from Germany, Rainier from Germany, Sonia from Houston, Darlene from Florida, Kelly from Portland...and so many others. We may have shared a simple "Bon Camino" to a complex conversation of why we are here on the Camino followed by a simple "Bon Camino".

      Bon Camino my friends! May your next journeys be blessed by the experiences of this journey.
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    • Day 38

      A Rua to Santiago de Compostella

      June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Arrived after 820 km! What an unbelievable experience, and I can't even believe I am here. In fact I am writing this 2 days later, and I am still in a bit of shock. Today I had quite a bit of rain upon arriving in Santiago, but somewhere around 15 km into the trail, it eased off, so I was not still soaked when I arrived in the plaza.

      I was met in the plaza by Veronica ( and her husband who brought champagne), Bernadette, and Deanne. Also in the plaza was Barbara and Martin.

      On June 8th, the next day, I returned to plaza, and met Diana and Yola and Kobus.

      When we all first met on the Way, we shared our stories around our various foot and blister injuries. We shared our challenges of the relentless hills and worse, the relentless downhills. We grumbled about the pilgrim meals, and rejoiced in other pilgrim meals. But no matter how many kilometres were accomplished that day, each day was celebrated with a glass of wine or two or three, and for the times our paths segued, a quick text checking in and updating on the route ahead or behind.

      Whether a pilgrim walks alone or with a group, there is always a confidence that you are never very far from another pilgrim. I walked alone quite a bit, and even have been accused on going rogue for a while in Leon...but with the love and support of my friends on the Way, I did find my way back to the trail. I am forever thankful for my dear friends on this Way who were unconditionally supportive and a beacon when the Way became hard.

      I arrived. I discovered the freedom to be myself. I am forgiving. I can create peace, unity and happiness. I have felt the love of God. I know God is the author of my journeys. I have found companionship regardless. I am walking a path and where this journey ends, another begins. The real journey begins after it ends.
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    • Day 20

      Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun

      May 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      The weather is turning fine, and the trail today was much the same as the previous days with a few more rolling hills, and a few more curves ahead.

      I decided today, and once I arrived in Sahagun at the hotel here in Sahagun that tomorrow, I am going to move onto Leon. The itinerary has me walking to Leon over the next coming days, but I feel I have seen and experienced as much as I need on this part of the Camino and because my shin is beginning to give me a bit of grief, my time is better spent in Leon.

      It is one of the challenges of having a booked itinerary. So while, I do not have to deal with the "bed rush" daily in some way or another, I lose the flexibility to experience the Camino as I need to experience it. I don't mind sacrificing a few days on the trail for a more satisfying experience if I push ahead to Leon.

      Today on my walk, I saw "real" bodegas...caves cut into the hills where locals store their wine, meat and cheese. Scattered around the Camino are hermitages. Given that there are quite a lot of them, I think that in the 13th century, give or take some, if men or women did not want to marry, nor did they want to join a monastery or a convent becoming a hermit was a choice. The site of the hermitage in the picture is unusual in that it belonged to a woman. This site is also interesting in that in 2021 Roman ruins were discovered. These ruins are part of a roman road or a dwelling that they have so far unearthed. It is not an active archaeological site, but there for anyone to see and walk around. I find it interesting how civilizations build on top of each other. We also learned this when travelling in Italy and the same is also true in Spain.
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    • Day 15

      Tag 13

      July 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

      Der Start in den Tag war ein bisschen schwerfällig. Wir waren alle nicht so motiviert, bisschen müde und wollten eigentlich nur Pause machen und Kaffee trinken. Aber hilft nix, wir haben kein Essen mehr und müssen die nächste Etappe schaffen. Also kratzen wir nach einem Frühstück in der Sonne unsere Motivation zusammen und los geht's. Der Weg führt und durch ein Tal, das von einem Fluss durchzogen wird. Als wir das Ende erreichen, erwartet uns ein steiler Anstieg, dafür werden wir mal wieder mit unglaublichen Aussichten und einem Bergsee belohnt. Da kochen wir uns doch direkt mal einen Kaffee. Nach einem kleinen Snack machen wir uns an den Abstieg. Unten angekommen stellen wir beleidigt fest, dass wir schon wieder in einem Schigebiet gelandet sind. Und, dass die letztem 8 Kilometer zum nächsten Dorf an einer Straße entlang führen. Wir sind seeeehr unbegeistert. Aber nagut. Wir stapfen unmotiviert die Straße entlang und überlegen, ob es geschummelt ist, wenn wir diesen Teil der Strecke einfach trampen. Während wir noch pros und cons diskutieren, hält plötzlich ein Van neben uns. Der Fahrer deutet auf unsere Rucksäcke und dann auf seinen Kofferraum. Also.... wir haben nicht mal danach gefragt.... also... das zählt schon beschließen wir kurzerhand und klettern in das Auto. Amüsiert sitzen wir im Kofferraum auf einem Haufen Kisten während unser "Taxifahrer" in voller Lautstärke spanische Musik abspielt und uns in das nächste Städtchen führt. Dort ist gerade ein Musikfestival in vollem Gange und zu unserem Entzücken gibt es da auch eine Food-Meile. Mit veganem Essen! Wir schlagen uns die Bäuche voll, gehen einkaufen und machen uns dann ein paar Kilometer außerhalb der Stadt auf die Suche nach einem Schlafplatz. Neben einem Stausee werden wir fündig und können vor dem Schlafen noch schnell baden. Die ärgste Dreck-Salz-Sonnencreme-Schweißkrustekann man so schon entfernen.
      Die nächsten Tage wollen wir ein bisschen entspannter angehen, also stellen wir den Wecker auf 7:30h.
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    • Day 5

      Taormina Sicily

      May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      We arrived in Taormina on May 3rd and proceeded on our trip to a vineyard on Mount Etna. When we arrived at the Murgo winery at Villa San Michele Estate we were greeted by our host who gave us a tasting of their sparkling, white and red wines. The views of Mount Etna were amazing.Read more

    • Day 29

      Molinasca to Villafranca del Bierzo

      May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 20 °C

      Diana and I started out our 30+ km day and by 24km were too distracted by the wineries en route that we taxied the last 9 km to Villafranca del Bierzo. But it is just as well because just as we arrived in town, the thunderclouds were rolling in, and soon it was pouring rain.

      Today’s walk was different. It was largely from town to town. Some of the towns were more like cities and more industrial or touristy, and others were more quaint and less populated.

      At one small city, the monument of the weight lifter is because during an olympic game, this small town in northern Spain was the home to an olympic champion.

      At another town, we passed an “energy museum”…it did not look terribly busy (lol)…but by contrast we were looking forward to the seeing the Castillo de los Templarios, but it is closed on Mondays. “Walk across the bridge to the massive twin - towered gate, and feel immediately transported to the 12th and 13th centuries, the times of knights, pilgrims and passionate causes.” (Moon, Camino Santiago). The Templar knights ruled from this city of Ponferrada where they protected pilgrims and other sacred interests. In other posts I mention the Templar knights as a strong presence throughout the Camino. This castle was one of their headquarters.

      At Fuentes Nuevas, there was suppose to be a winery near the end of town, we did not find that winery, so settled for a sandwich and an omelette and a glass of orange juice. Orange juice is a staple in Spain. Squeezed fresh from oranges, it is offered nearly anywhere a person buys food and drink.

      But only 1.5 km later in Camponaraya, the Cooperativo Vinas del Bierzo, pilgrims are welcomed to stop and learn about regional wines and sample. Needless to say, it was busy with pilgrims. As Diana poured over the maps (because I still can’t be trusted with a map), and we contemplated the next 15 or more kilometers in 32 degrees and full sun, we decided that we would venture forth through the vineyards to the next town, and then decide whether to finish the 32 km or take a taxi.

      Lucky for us in Cacabelos, there was a lovely garden, bar, restaurant and shop. So after stopping for more wine and more lunch, we hired a taxi for the last 9km. During lunch, I noticed another solo female pilgrim traveler, and I also noticed that she was definitely very sore. Diana suggested that she taxi with us, and when we were able to communicate clearly between our English and her German that we were inviting her to share a taxi, she immediately said, “I take taxi with you!”

      She didn’t have a reservation in Villafranca, and though people have struggled with reservations time and time again, consistently, if a pilgrim is without a bed, the church or albergue owners will reach out to the larger community to support a pilgrim. I heard the other night that an albergue owner took 4 or 5 pilgrims to his own home rather than have them walk more or spend the night homeless.

      At this point on the Camino, many are new to the Camino because they joined the Camino at Leon. So once again, we are hearing conversations about too much luggage, too heavy backpacks, blistered and raw feet, shoe challenges.

      While both Diana and I, today, struggled with our feet, me with some type of bruising at the back of my heel and Diana with a blister upon a blister ( another reason we did not walk the additional kilometres), we feel more confident about walking despite that it hurts and is uncomfortable. Look at the picture where I am wearing my tevas. By 3 km today, I declared defeat with my shoes, and switched out to my tevas. Some days are like that! At some point when you have walked over 500 km, your brain/body finds a compromise, and you settle into the walk, but it is important to be cognizant of what your feet can take even at this point. There are still 200 kms to go!
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    • Day 7

      Malta

      May 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Our next port of call was the small country of Malta. It is a melting pot of nationalities- Greek, Arab, Italian, and English. The official language is English and secondary is Arabic. We saw the Dingli Cliffs and stopped for a photo by a small church. From there we went to the towns I’d Medina and Rabat. We visited the Catacombs and Basilica of St Paul a beautiful church.Read more

    • Day 112

      Casablanca, Morocco

      April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

      The highlight of our Casablanca tour was our rainy morning visit to Hassan II Mosque, the 7th largest and one of the tallest mosques in the world. Words nor photos cannot describe how beautiful this mosque is. It’s beautiful minaret is the 2nd tallest in the world at 689 feet and is topped by a laser, the light from which is directed towards Mecca; the mosque cost $800M to build. Over 10,000 artisans worked on this mosque. It stands on a promontory overlooking the ocean. The walls are hand-crafted of marble, and it has a retractable roof. Twice a year over 100,000 worshippers come to this mosque.

      After this visit, we drove by the beautiful beach area and then through the ‘Beverly Hills’ of Casablanca with it’s beautiful homes. We visited a Catholic church with it’s beautiful stained-glass windows – Church of Notre Dame of Lourdes. We saw an unusual altar where the statue of Mary was bigger than the Jesus statue. Our guide told us that there is religious tolerance/freedom in Morocco. We heard the same from guides of other Muslim countries, as well. However, in Morocco – a country of 37M people – only 30,000 Catholics remain, and there are left less than 3,000 Jews. The Flag of Morocco pays homage to the 5 Pillars of Islam.

      We then stopped by Royal Palace. We were not allowed entrance. We visited the medina and bought some items, including argan oil and a pretty magic lamp. Carpets, Djebellas, and other items were for sale.

      We ended our tour in the United Nations Square. We had lunch at Les Fleurs, a busy restaurant. We ordered Taginee (fish for Cathy, chicken for me) cooked with spices and served in cone-shaped cone pot and bread.
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    Monument to Fallen Heroes

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