Spain
Plaza Santo Cristo

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    • Day 4

      Becoming a Local

      March 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

      What a lovely seaside town Marbella is. Bright sunny blue skies fresh air cool Mediterranean breeze.
      I can imagine ancient Roman soldiers around a beach campfire grilling sardines, the day's catch washing it all down with their daily allotment of wine. Wondering about family back home in Rome. Saying to themselves 'Rome is nice but all those politicians, the taxes, and the dusty lanes. España is the life for me." finally falling asleep on the sand seashore below star filled skies.
      Last night I couldn't keep my eyes open past ten pm. Even the Spaniards common use of foul language on TV couldn't keep me awake. So to bed I went hoping for an early start but didn't wake up until almost 8 am this morning. I made coffee, ate my daily banana and a croissant. Then read email and caught up on the US stock market only to receive my property tax bill but not letting it get me down.
      At 9:45 I walked over to the gym next door for my workout as I've hired a trainer for the duration of my stay here. Fernando is his name and after smiles and a handshake to work we got.
      It's a nice local gym no foreigners (except me) that was busy already. Clean, well equipped, and convenient. The training price is good a lot cheaper than in the US. In fact, I am finding prices much cheaper here than back home. The Euro is slightly higher than the dollar but not noticeable for either devices or groceries.
      I was to meet Mar the AirB&B manager who yesterday offered to give m a tour of Marbella to acquaint myself with the layout. At the specified time of 1 pm she was downstairs waiting. We began walking and talking. Mar is from the province of Leon in northern Spain but has lived around the world, China, Germany, and various parts of Spain but is now settles with he husband in Marbella. Her husband is responsible of the development and market introduction of automobiles internationally, VW, SEAT in the Chinese market. Now introducing a Chinese auto to the Spanish market.
      We first stopped in the fish market. Locally caught and fresh. Many odd the stalls not only sold fish but also will prepare fried or grill for you while you wait. I enjoy fish but cleaning, preparing and properly cooking has always been a challenge. So I will return. She also pointed out a little restaurant that makes paella but alerted me to reserve in advance as it sells out quickly. That's my plan for Saturday's dinner. So I will order tomorrow, pick it up Saturday for my evening meal her in the apartment. I then plain to walk to the waterfront promenade and walk those calories off. Maybe spot a Roman soldier in the distance.
      Next we walked through the beautiful old town pointing out the best restaurants where locals not tourists eat. Plaza de Olivas, Plaza de Naranjos, Plaza la Victoria (chocolate churros there) and the finest of streets not wider than 5 feet where her favorite and I must say hidden restaurant are located. One in particular Restaurant del Estrecho. Or Restaurant of the Narrow.
      From there we walked down to the beachfront walking through Marbella's "central" park adorned with Salvador Dalí sculptures.
      Restaurant filled streets Mar pointing out her favorites. We strolled south along the promenade and stopped looking across the Mediterranean Sea. Wow I could see the Rock of Gibraltar and the coast of Africa. How cool! Remembering those somewhat daydreamy days in elementary school geography class learning about these distant places.
      We continued on stopping for a capuchino at a small cafe run by an Italian couple. It was now lunchtime in Spain 2 pm. As we sat talking Mar's husband who was walking by spotted us and stopped to say hello. But couldn't stay as he was on his lunch break and needed to get back home for work. How come we don't work like that? European norms sure are different from America.
      Shortly thereafter we too got up and started walking back toward the apartment. Mar herself had to go take care of one of her 5 units that would have renters arriving tomorrow. We parted ways and I started toward home. But the aromas from the many establishments told my stomach not yet. So...
      I went in search of a tapas place she had highlighted. Oh but could not find it. So I headed to Central Park and retraced my steps. Finding it noting the outdoor tables were taken I went inside and found a table.
      I order three tapas dishes and a coke zero. Yeah no wine for me. Of the three tapas the cod croquettes were to die for. What savory bites for the soul. And all for 15 Euros. Going back there for certain.
      I love tapas. Start with one or two and continue ordering as the palate desires. Tonite I still fill good so no dinner. But tomorrow I plan to walk to Puerto Banus 5 miles south along the seashore promenade as I can't let this good eating ruin my well toned, athletic physique ;)!
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    • Day 5

      A Day in the Old Town

      March 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

      After a strenuous workout with Fernando this morning I headed back to the apartment to plan the days activities. Priority 1 was ordering paella for Saturday pickup at the local market. This is to be my meal Saturday evening. But first a light lunch of coffee and an almond croissant at the local bakery. Yes the morning's exercise demanded a bit of a carbo load to help get to the market.
      Crossing the street I entered the municipal market building and walked up to the second floor. The market place was filled with the lunch crowd. Sounds of talk amongst the clinking wine glasses and grilled fished welcomed me.
      I headed over to the little paella restaurant and was greeted by a friendly proprietor. "Hola señor!" I said. "Buenos días" he replied. I told him I wanted to order his famous paella for Saturday. His grin enlarged displaying a mouthful of broad pearly whites savoring the "famous" paella reference.
      "Necesito una reservacion?" I asked.
      "No. No es necesario" he replied.
      "Y a que hora paso para llevar?" I asked wanting to know when to come by to pick up the meal. And was told between 1:30-1:45 but not later.
      "Gracias. Quieres mi nombre?" I asked.
      " No yo me acordaré de ti." he said. Probably thinking I can't forget the tall distinguish baldheaded gentleman ordering my paella. I thanked him with a smile.

      Back into the market and down the stairs to the street I walked south or down as Marbella is built on the coastal hillsides so it is easy to navigate. Up hill is north away from the seashore and of course down is towards the Mediterranean. East or west requires a learning curve that in remembering landmarks as the Old Town or "Ciudad Antigua" is known is a puzzle of meandering cobble stone streets. On my first venture out a few days ago I ended up walking in a circle only to have made little progress finding myself where I had begun.

      In no hurry enjoying the narrow passages with a small 35mm digital SONY camera in hand I wondered about. The camera is a perfect traveling companion lent to me by a best friend and ex-Abbott colleague. Thank you Rob. No heavy camera strap around my neck slowing me down. But it gets lost in my big hands my long fingers inadvertently touching the wrong buttons when trying to frame a shot. Although I did manage to shoot quite a number of photos tomorrow I will use the 3 pounder Nikon instead.

      I reached the seashore promenade and walked west as I wanted to find a seafood restaurant "Las Olas" pointed out by Mar. Its right on the water below the promenade with an extensive menu. I hope to get the fish espetos. This is a local method of skewering 12 sardines or a single larger fish on a spike and grilling it next to a hot pile of leña. It is a cooking method local to this region of Spain.

      Returning home after a long walk I watch a little Spanish television news. Nothing new here though. Young woman stabbed to death by her boyfriend. A construction company Ferrovial's move to Holland seeking lower tax rates. The move controversial because it's taking place ahead of Spanish elections and the company has been accused of not paying any tax in 2020. And another story of a football team owner caught on camera with is mistress. Nothing new in the "news."

      At 8 pm I headed over to a local restaurant La Polaca but is was crowded. So I left and headed towards that little narrow passage El Estrecho in the Old Town. It too was crowded but I managed to get a table in back. I ordered a beer (0.0% alcohol) and asked for a recommendation from the tapas menu. Three dishes ordered, country style meatballs (three small and delicious) with papas fritas, grilled pimiento salad and a plate of grilled anchovies. Not bad at all. Small but filling dishes topped off with an espreso.

      The streets filled with Friday night revelers, couples and families as I made my way back to the apartment. Wide awake from the espresso I watched a Netflix show but by midnight my droopy eyelids were interested in sleep.

      Tomorrow the paella and more sightseeing!
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    • Day 9

      The World is Mad! Or is it?

      March 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      News of the Day - The Highlights
      1. Shakira leaves Spain for Miami. The Nation is traumatized.
      2. The Butcher Tattoo Artist of Valdemore is sentenced. Crime: killing a client and keeping her inked skin as a trophy. His girlfriend also sentenced as an accomplice.
      3. Coverage on how much gas we humans pass per day. I have nothing further to add.
      4. Helicopter crashes. The pilot a Madrid fireman survives but tests positive for cocaine and amphetamines.
      5. People changing the color of their eyes. Doctors are firmly cautioning against procedure.
      Last but not least
      6. Doctor sued for €67, 500 by patient after correction for Peyroni's disease. Patient lost 6 cm (2.36 inches) of length.

      On a brighter note I went back to the market and bought more veggies plus two types of sausage. Had two small ones for dinner. Savory and tasty!

      Worm Moon rise over Marbella (photo sans tripod). This is the last full moon of astronomical winter and known as the Worm Moon. Other name for this moon include Goose Moon, Snow Crust Moon, the Eagle Moon and the Sugar Moon.
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    • Day 11

      A Walk Up into the Hills

      March 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      It was time to get to know some of the surrounding neighborhood near my building. Walking south I took a right and began to ascend a long winding road rising at a very steep incline. On its south side were white walled modern homes with high security walls. This was no ordinary neighborhood.
      The road continued up until it reached a plateau and intersection. I went left and continued walking. Each home a modern block interspersed with old traditional structures some well maintained others aging. Wandering and absorbing life in this part of the world. At what do these denizen of Marbella work?
      Streets well maintained and for the most part sidewalks in good condition with some crumbling exceptions. Most importantly dog walkers seem pick up after their pets. I've been to many cities where the people don't seem to care finding sidewalks strewn with "deposits." London come to mind.
      I walked lost in the intertwining streets but knew that down was to the Mediterranean and thereby Marbella center.
      It was now mid-day sunny and warm. I continued on until I had seen enough and started downhill eventually coming to the municipal market where I have been shopping for vegetable and fruit. Not lost at all.
      I made my way to a bench and shade in the historic town center. It was busy with many obvious tourists wandering, cameras in hand, taking selfies, eating at cafes. I found a seat in Plaza de los Naranjos. I really wanted a coffee but had left without my wallet. So now I sat watching others walk as I people watched.
      That evening I met Mar and her husband at a vey popular tapas bar called Lekune. Dinner was set for 8:30. I have come to know the area so finding the restaurant was easy and not far from my place.
      Through the tall glass walls of the restaurant I saw Mar seated at a table. It was 8:30 and apparently this Spaniard commits to being on time. Although her husband arrived later due to conference calls he had to take. I remember those.
      The restaurant full. The atmosphere energetic. The people in lively conversations.
      Seeing the servers walking around carrying trays of tapas didn't immediately occur to me that this was different type of tapas bar. In fact not a menu in sight. And each tapas on those severs trays were skewered with either a long or short toothpick. Sure to hold it together was one eats it.
      It was a fun experience as without a menu servers walk around to each table with a tray of a specific tapas. They approach tell the diner what it is and if desired it is placed on ones plate. This interaction creates a friendly conversation between sever and dinner.
      I started with the Spanish tortilla (omelette) not to be mistaken for a Mexican tortilla. It was delicious. I took the skewer out and Mar told me to drop it in the empty glass on the table. OK.
      Each tapas different and with the exception of the tortilla each was served atop a small baguette slice. Next came a wonderful piece of cod beneath a savory sauce. The fish felt apart at the touch of my fork. Then a petite marinated brisket that melted in my mouth, lean shredded beef, an beef empanada, and what else? I lost tracked but finally could not eat more.
      We continued our conversation getting to know each other, life in Spain, the US.
      It was around 10:30 that we decided it was time get the check. Two hours at a table. Not rushed, not asked to leave. All very leisurely.
      I offered to pay the check but they insisted that it was their invitation and therefore their treat.
      Signaling one of the server for the check. She stepped over holding a tray of tapas in the air. As se did so she emptied the glass with the deposited skewers/toothpicks and counted them. Thirteen in all. Each of those skewers had a value. The long ones higher value than the short ones. That was our bill.
      I learned that this is a traditional way of serving tapas in the north of Spain. What an enjoyable night. Who needs a mobile device to scan a barcode pasted on a table top? Or read through a menu to figure out what to order? Traditions are good.
      All finished we said our good-byes parted. Noting there was now less automobile traffic and pedestrians I made my way home. Full from the meal, culturally satisfied.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Plaza Santo Cristo

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