Spain to Germany

February - April 2023
One year ago today I returned home to Chicago after spending 5 epic weeks motorcycling south to Tierra del Fuego, SA.
Tomorrow I board a flight to Malaga, Spain. I will spend all of March in Marbella exploring the spectacular Spanish Costa del Sol.
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  • 4countries
  • 37days
  • 360photos
  • 4videos
  • 15.0kmiles
  • 12.8kmiles
  • Day 2

    A New Aventure In A New Town

    February 28, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    Leaving today for Marbella, Spain where I will live for the next month. I am renting a one bedroom condo minutes away from the Old Town City Center as well as an 8 minute walk to the shores of the Mediterranean.
    I will immerse myself in the city's daily life, Andalusian and Spanish culture and visit the surrounding towns and villages.
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  • Day 3

    Layover in Brussels

    March 1, 2023 in Belgium ⋅ ☀️ 32 °F

    After years of flying business class I took the chance and flew United’s Premium Plus. I was anxious about it but no complaints. Seating was reminiscent of United’s Business Class seats of old but much improved. No there are no lay flat seats but decent recline and plenty of legroom. It’s a 2-3-2 configuration and I had a bulkhead aisle seat with the middle seat unoccupied. Lucky for me this fare saved some big dollars. Food decent with typical United service. They try hard but nowhere near the level provided on British, Lufthansa or Singapore Airlines.
    A line to get through Passport Control but it moved at a decent pace. I used to complain (to myself) about these queues but after years of standing and shuffling I now accept them as an expected part of travel.
    The longest lines I have stood in are arriving in Hong Kong late night during the SARS epidemic and entering Chile during Covid.
    When deplaning in Hong Kong all airport personnel were fully gowned and masked ushering hundreds and hundreds of passengers to temperature control checkpoints. It was an eerie scene, the darkness of night, smell of jet fuel, humid stale air, fluorescent airport lights, medical personnel scurrying in blue gowns probing electronic thermometers in their gloved hands. And us weary, helpless humans following their orders. Although with a population of a billion Chinese bureaucracy was efficient at moving the herd.
    Last year arriving at another airport this time in Santiago chile there was more intensive body check. There we succumbed to interviews, documentation checks, nasal pharyngeal swabs during the Covid outbreak. That wasn’t as alarming as Hong Kong but it took 1 hour and 45 minutes to get through the various medical stations before reaching immigration.
    Now one hour to board my flight to Malaga sitting here writing and listening to the various languages being spoken by waiting travelers.
    I’m finally in Europe as far away as I could get from MAGA Republicans and those Jewish Space Lasers.
    I wonder what crazy conspiracy theories will I encounter in Spain? Will this part of the world be also filled with lunacy?
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  • Day 3

    Home!

    March 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    I arrived at my apartment home for the next 31 days. It is very centrally located on Calle de Jacinto Benavente 7, Marbella.
    The manager, Mar, met me outside and gave me the grand tour. She is a lovely, friendly lady. Very conscientious.
    I then unpacked and went to the grocery store for a few items but bought more than anticipated and after grabbing a hand of bananas headed straight for jamón serrano which I had for dinner in a freshly made baguette. Yum. I lingered in the store inspecting the many new products to plan a nice dinner for myself.
    I then walked the neighborhood getting lost but acquainting myself thereby finding my way home. The gym where I’ve contracted a personal trainer for the month is just around the corner.
    Marbella is a large town but feels like a small village adorned with hanging flowers throughout its winding narrow streets.
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  • Day 4

    Becoming a Local

    March 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    What a lovely seaside town Marbella is. Bright sunny blue skies fresh air cool Mediterranean breeze.
    I can imagine ancient Roman soldiers around a beach campfire grilling sardines, the day's catch washing it all down with their daily allotment of wine. Wondering about family back home in Rome. Saying to themselves 'Rome is nice but all those politicians, the taxes, and the dusty lanes. España is the life for me." finally falling asleep on the sand seashore below star filled skies.
    Last night I couldn't keep my eyes open past ten pm. Even the Spaniards common use of foul language on TV couldn't keep me awake. So to bed I went hoping for an early start but didn't wake up until almost 8 am this morning. I made coffee, ate my daily banana and a croissant. Then read email and caught up on the US stock market only to receive my property tax bill but not letting it get me down.
    At 9:45 I walked over to the gym next door for my workout as I've hired a trainer for the duration of my stay here. Fernando is his name and after smiles and a handshake to work we got.
    It's a nice local gym no foreigners (except me) that was busy already. Clean, well equipped, and convenient. The training price is good a lot cheaper than in the US. In fact, I am finding prices much cheaper here than back home. The Euro is slightly higher than the dollar but not noticeable for either devices or groceries.
    I was to meet Mar the AirB&B manager who yesterday offered to give m a tour of Marbella to acquaint myself with the layout. At the specified time of 1 pm she was downstairs waiting. We began walking and talking. Mar is from the province of Leon in northern Spain but has lived around the world, China, Germany, and various parts of Spain but is now settles with he husband in Marbella. Her husband is responsible of the development and market introduction of automobiles internationally, VW, SEAT in the Chinese market. Now introducing a Chinese auto to the Spanish market.
    We first stopped in the fish market. Locally caught and fresh. Many odd the stalls not only sold fish but also will prepare fried or grill for you while you wait. I enjoy fish but cleaning, preparing and properly cooking has always been a challenge. So I will return. She also pointed out a little restaurant that makes paella but alerted me to reserve in advance as it sells out quickly. That's my plan for Saturday's dinner. So I will order tomorrow, pick it up Saturday for my evening meal her in the apartment. I then plain to walk to the waterfront promenade and walk those calories off. Maybe spot a Roman soldier in the distance.
    Next we walked through the beautiful old town pointing out the best restaurants where locals not tourists eat. Plaza de Olivas, Plaza de Naranjos, Plaza la Victoria (chocolate churros there) and the finest of streets not wider than 5 feet where her favorite and I must say hidden restaurant are located. One in particular Restaurant del Estrecho. Or Restaurant of the Narrow.
    From there we walked down to the beachfront walking through Marbella's "central" park adorned with Salvador Dalí sculptures.
    Restaurant filled streets Mar pointing out her favorites. We strolled south along the promenade and stopped looking across the Mediterranean Sea. Wow I could see the Rock of Gibraltar and the coast of Africa. How cool! Remembering those somewhat daydreamy days in elementary school geography class learning about these distant places.
    We continued on stopping for a capuchino at a small cafe run by an Italian couple. It was now lunchtime in Spain 2 pm. As we sat talking Mar's husband who was walking by spotted us and stopped to say hello. But couldn't stay as he was on his lunch break and needed to get back home for work. How come we don't work like that? European norms sure are different from America.
    Shortly thereafter we too got up and started walking back toward the apartment. Mar herself had to go take care of one of her 5 units that would have renters arriving tomorrow. We parted ways and I started toward home. But the aromas from the many establishments told my stomach not yet. So...
    I went in search of a tapas place she had highlighted. Oh but could not find it. So I headed to Central Park and retraced my steps. Finding it noting the outdoor tables were taken I went inside and found a table.
    I order three tapas dishes and a coke zero. Yeah no wine for me. Of the three tapas the cod croquettes were to die for. What savory bites for the soul. And all for 15 Euros. Going back there for certain.
    I love tapas. Start with one or two and continue ordering as the palate desires. Tonite I still fill good so no dinner. But tomorrow I plan to walk to Puerto Banus 5 miles south along the seashore promenade as I can't let this good eating ruin my well toned, athletic physique ;)!
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  • Day 5

    A Day in the Old Town

    March 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    After a strenuous workout with Fernando this morning I headed back to the apartment to plan the days activities. Priority 1 was ordering paella for Saturday pickup at the local market. This is to be my meal Saturday evening. But first a light lunch of coffee and an almond croissant at the local bakery. Yes the morning's exercise demanded a bit of a carbo load to help get to the market.
    Crossing the street I entered the municipal market building and walked up to the second floor. The market place was filled with the lunch crowd. Sounds of talk amongst the clinking wine glasses and grilled fished welcomed me.
    I headed over to the little paella restaurant and was greeted by a friendly proprietor. "Hola señor!" I said. "Buenos días" he replied. I told him I wanted to order his famous paella for Saturday. His grin enlarged displaying a mouthful of broad pearly whites savoring the "famous" paella reference.
    "Necesito una reservacion?" I asked.
    "No. No es necesario" he replied.
    "Y a que hora paso para llevar?" I asked wanting to know when to come by to pick up the meal. And was told between 1:30-1:45 but not later.
    "Gracias. Quieres mi nombre?" I asked.
    " No yo me acordaré de ti." he said. Probably thinking I can't forget the tall distinguish baldheaded gentleman ordering my paella. I thanked him with a smile.

    Back into the market and down the stairs to the street I walked south or down as Marbella is built on the coastal hillsides so it is easy to navigate. Up hill is north away from the seashore and of course down is towards the Mediterranean. East or west requires a learning curve that in remembering landmarks as the Old Town or "Ciudad Antigua" is known is a puzzle of meandering cobble stone streets. On my first venture out a few days ago I ended up walking in a circle only to have made little progress finding myself where I had begun.

    In no hurry enjoying the narrow passages with a small 35mm digital SONY camera in hand I wondered about. The camera is a perfect traveling companion lent to me by a best friend and ex-Abbott colleague. Thank you Rob. No heavy camera strap around my neck slowing me down. But it gets lost in my big hands my long fingers inadvertently touching the wrong buttons when trying to frame a shot. Although I did manage to shoot quite a number of photos tomorrow I will use the 3 pounder Nikon instead.

    I reached the seashore promenade and walked west as I wanted to find a seafood restaurant "Las Olas" pointed out by Mar. Its right on the water below the promenade with an extensive menu. I hope to get the fish espetos. This is a local method of skewering 12 sardines or a single larger fish on a spike and grilling it next to a hot pile of leña. It is a cooking method local to this region of Spain.

    Returning home after a long walk I watch a little Spanish television news. Nothing new here though. Young woman stabbed to death by her boyfriend. A construction company Ferrovial's move to Holland seeking lower tax rates. The move controversial because it's taking place ahead of Spanish elections and the company has been accused of not paying any tax in 2020. And another story of a football team owner caught on camera with is mistress. Nothing new in the "news."

    At 8 pm I headed over to a local restaurant La Polaca but is was crowded. So I left and headed towards that little narrow passage El Estrecho in the Old Town. It too was crowded but I managed to get a table in back. I ordered a beer (0.0% alcohol) and asked for a recommendation from the tapas menu. Three dishes ordered, country style meatballs (three small and delicious) with papas fritas, grilled pimiento salad and a plate of grilled anchovies. Not bad at all. Small but filling dishes topped off with an espreso.

    The streets filled with Friday night revelers, couples and families as I made my way back to the apartment. Wide awake from the espresso I watched a Netflix show but by midnight my droopy eyelids were interested in sleep.

    Tomorrow the paella and more sightseeing!
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  • Day 6

    A Relaxing Saturday

    March 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    What a nice day this Saturday in Spain turned out to be. A bit of shopping then home planning my next destination after Spain.

    But I did get to the Municipal Market for my paella. I had to wait a few minutes but the proprietor did remember me. So I took a few minutes to walk the market, inspect the various seafood stands and purchased vegetables for tomorrow's dinner.

    When I returned there were two containers filled with paella. I paid about €7 using my European debit card and rushed home to eat. I devoured one container saving the other for tonite.

    Oh and was it ever the best paella I have eaten. Maybe I was just hungry? No it was deliciously excellent! The picture does not convey well the lovely texture, taste or aroma. I thought about plating it for a nice photograph but I was too inpatient. So I ate right out of the container! No time to lose.

    I am home for the evening with plenty of food. Tomorrow I am meeting a best friend of my younger sister Elsa for lunch at the beach. An easy weekend allowing the calmness of time to revitalize me.
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  • Day 7

    A Cool Rain Fell on Marbella

    March 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Sunday afternoon I was invited by family friends to lunch on the beach at a place called La Red. Bryan and Lidia picked me up in their long wheel based Jaguar. Feeling like British royalty ensconced in the rear seat off we went. It was a sunny afternoon and the beach restaurants were crowded especially since it was lunch time 2:30 pm. A Sunday tradition - paella!
    We managed a table and ordered drinks and Paella Mixta for three. Mixta consist of both seafood and land proteins typically chicken and/or some sort of pork sausage. It was a beautiful presentation and we hastily ate with abandon. But couldn't finish it all so I took home the remaining portion, about a fifth of the dish.
    From there went by car to Puerto Banus the Monaco of Spain whose harbor is filled with multimillion dollar yachts and whose streets are cruised my six figure + automobiles. Not a Toyota or Nissan in sight not even a Tesla. The stores required a loaded wallet with platinum credit cards and most likely a credit score verification check! But we managed coffee at a small harbor front cafe within my spending limit.
    Puerto Banus is the playground of very wealthy Arabs. Millionaires and billionaires.
    Sunday evening I couldn't think of eating anymore. The weather was turning colder and the clouds began hiding the mountain tops. An Atlantic front was reaching the coast with 100% rain forecasted. So I stayed in and found The Handmaid's Tale streaming on Prime. Having wanted to see this series for sometime and liking Elizabeth Moss acting ability I tuned in. She was was really good in Shining Girls which I recommend.
    Monday was wet, cold and dreary. The incessant rain not letting up. The mountains to the north still shrouded in fog. Not much to do or see. So after a vigorous hour long workout I did not venture out again. Luckily I had planned farmers market run on Saturday enabling me to able to prepare a tasteful vegetarian dish of Japanese eggplant, yellow bell peppers, red onion, a red spicy pepper, and garlic with a good pinch of sea salt sautéed in Spanish extra virgin olive oil. It was perfect.
    The veggies and fruit from this organic market are locally grown. I found the pears, plums and bananas to have a very earthy flavor. I could literally taste the earth they were grown in. It was so different from the usual fruits that I purchase at big box markets.
    Taking a break from The Handmaids I turned to watch Spanish news programing. Elections are coming up and the biggest story from the weekend is a bill up for approval to increase the penalties for sexual abuse of women and the transgendered minorities rights. It was reported that the increasing rate of female homicides particularly by boyfriends or husbands is serious enough to enact stiffer laws.
    The political parties including the Spanish Socialist Workers Party, Podemos Party, Party of the Citizenry, The People's Party and the VOX Party have voiced their opinions. The parties representatives make up the Spanish Congress of Deputies and Senate. All parties are in agreement that more needs to be done to protect women's rights with large protest marches over the weekend in the major cities across Spain. The only party opposed to the legislation is the VOX party. No surprise here as it the conservative party. I fail to understand its reasoning and support.
    Tomorrow Tuesday the rains are to subside and the sun returns. The forecast is for clear skies with no rain for the week ahead with daytime temperature in the 70s.
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  • Day 9

    The World is Mad! Or is it?

    March 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    News of the Day - The Highlights
    1. Shakira leaves Spain for Miami. The Nation is traumatized.
    2. The Butcher Tattoo Artist of Valdemore is sentenced. Crime: killing a client and keeping her inked skin as a trophy. His girlfriend also sentenced as an accomplice.
    3. Coverage on how much gas we humans pass per day. I have nothing further to add.
    4. Helicopter crashes. The pilot a Madrid fireman survives but tests positive for cocaine and amphetamines.
    5. People changing the color of their eyes. Doctors are firmly cautioning against procedure.
    Last but not least
    6. Doctor sued for €67, 500 by patient after correction for Peyroni's disease. Patient lost 6 cm (2.36 inches) of length.

    On a brighter note I went back to the market and bought more veggies plus two types of sausage. Had two small ones for dinner. Savory and tasty!

    Worm Moon rise over Marbella (photo sans tripod). This is the last full moon of astronomical winter and known as the Worm Moon. Other name for this moon include Goose Moon, Snow Crust Moon, the Eagle Moon and the Sugar Moon.
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  • Day 11

    A Walk Up into the Hills

    March 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    It was time to get to know some of the surrounding neighborhood near my building. Walking south I took a right and began to ascend a long winding road rising at a very steep incline. On its south side were white walled modern homes with high security walls. This was no ordinary neighborhood.
    The road continued up until it reached a plateau and intersection. I went left and continued walking. Each home a modern block interspersed with old traditional structures some well maintained others aging. Wandering and absorbing life in this part of the world. At what do these denizen of Marbella work?
    Streets well maintained and for the most part sidewalks in good condition with some crumbling exceptions. Most importantly dog walkers seem pick up after their pets. I've been to many cities where the people don't seem to care finding sidewalks strewn with "deposits." London come to mind.
    I walked lost in the intertwining streets but knew that down was to the Mediterranean and thereby Marbella center.
    It was now mid-day sunny and warm. I continued on until I had seen enough and started downhill eventually coming to the municipal market where I have been shopping for vegetable and fruit. Not lost at all.
    I made my way to a bench and shade in the historic town center. It was busy with many obvious tourists wandering, cameras in hand, taking selfies, eating at cafes. I found a seat in Plaza de los Naranjos. I really wanted a coffee but had left without my wallet. So now I sat watching others walk as I people watched.
    That evening I met Mar and her husband at a vey popular tapas bar called Lekune. Dinner was set for 8:30. I have come to know the area so finding the restaurant was easy and not far from my place.
    Through the tall glass walls of the restaurant I saw Mar seated at a table. It was 8:30 and apparently this Spaniard commits to being on time. Although her husband arrived later due to conference calls he had to take. I remember those.
    The restaurant full. The atmosphere energetic. The people in lively conversations.
    Seeing the servers walking around carrying trays of tapas didn't immediately occur to me that this was different type of tapas bar. In fact not a menu in sight. And each tapas on those severs trays were skewered with either a long or short toothpick. Sure to hold it together was one eats it.
    It was a fun experience as without a menu servers walk around to each table with a tray of a specific tapas. They approach tell the diner what it is and if desired it is placed on ones plate. This interaction creates a friendly conversation between sever and dinner.
    I started with the Spanish tortilla (omelette) not to be mistaken for a Mexican tortilla. It was delicious. I took the skewer out and Mar told me to drop it in the empty glass on the table. OK.
    Each tapas different and with the exception of the tortilla each was served atop a small baguette slice. Next came a wonderful piece of cod beneath a savory sauce. The fish felt apart at the touch of my fork. Then a petite marinated brisket that melted in my mouth, lean shredded beef, an beef empanada, and what else? I lost tracked but finally could not eat more.
    We continued our conversation getting to know each other, life in Spain, the US.
    It was around 10:30 that we decided it was time get the check. Two hours at a table. Not rushed, not asked to leave. All very leisurely.
    I offered to pay the check but they insisted that it was their invitation and therefore their treat.
    Signaling one of the server for the check. She stepped over holding a tray of tapas in the air. As se did so she emptied the glass with the deposited skewers/toothpicks and counted them. Thirteen in all. Each of those skewers had a value. The long ones higher value than the short ones. That was our bill.
    I learned that this is a traditional way of serving tapas in the north of Spain. What an enjoyable night. Who needs a mobile device to scan a barcode pasted on a table top? Or read through a menu to figure out what to order? Traditions are good.
    All finished we said our good-byes parted. Noting there was now less automobile traffic and pedestrians I made my way home. Full from the meal, culturally satisfied.
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  • Day 13

    Malaga, Spain

    March 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    It’s in the mid 70s today so what better weather than a day trip to Malaga birthplace of Pablo Picasso.
    I was up early, had a nice breakfast coffee, a banana and papaya plus some bread bread purchased yesterday at the market.
    I took the #2 bus to the (1.09€) Marbella Central Bus Terminal to catch the intercity bus to Malaga about an hour 10 ride along the autopista.
    Arriving at the Málaga bus terminal I had about 1.2 mile walk to the Picasso Museum. I hung my Aftershokz over the ears vibrating ends resting on my temples. Locked in the museum address and hit play on my iPhone. Immediately “I Ain’t No Thief” from “Cave World” Viagra Boys new album came on. To the rhythm of the music I made my way towards the museum along the broad leafy promenade. The music now playing Punk Rock Loser and Siri interrupting with directions. “In 200 meters turn left at Avenida de Los Reyes.” I complied. On occasion she had difficulty with the Spanish names forcing me to look at my phone. While Sebastian frontman of the Boys singing “…And I don't go to parties where folks get dressed up
    I go to the function just to fuck shit up…” just in time to hear wailing sirens following marching protesters. I stopped to watch and take a few photos. I got up on an empty bench an another guy joined me. I ask what the protesters were all about. They were unionized transportation employees. He said that since pre-COVID they have not had raises nor improved working conditions. I guess punk rock loser everywhere even in Spain.
    I thanked him and continued towards the museum. Now walking the streets of the ancient old town dating back to Roman times I wandered absorbing the aroma from the many cafes. The banter of tourists and locals enjoying a sunny warm day. Some languages recognizable, others Nordic or Eastern European indecipherable. There were lots of people on the narrow streets and a line to enter the museum.
    I dislike lines they remind me of preparatory school, obey or detention Mr. Perea. I stood silent but the line moved efficiently probably taking about 15 minutes to reach the entrance. I stepped inside and checked my backpack, paid the €9.50, asked for an audio set, had my ticket scanned making my way to the galleries.
    It was mesmerizing. What an incredible artist. The exhibit spanned his career from his earliest works at the beginning of the 20th century until his death at 91 in 1973. What painter and visionary.
    I just saw the Dali exhibit in Chicago and was also impressed. But Picasso in my opinion by far surpasses Dali. I have now been to the Picasso Museum in Barcelona and the Dali Museum in Girona, Spain so feel lucky to view these masterpieces.
    I highly recommend this Picasso museum and the one in Barcelona or the Reina Sofia in Madrid which has works of both artist. I thank my dad who instilled the live of art in us.
    I left the museum my brain’s right hemisphere electrified, visual memories a slide show parsing each piece seen as my stomach oblivious clamoring for food.
    All the cafes were crowded. Now 2 pm lunch time in Spain. But I managed an espresso, ham and cheese croissant at an elegant bakery.
    I next found my way to the Alcazaba the Moorish fortress dating back to the 10th century. Walking the ramparts imagining what life must have been like 1000 years ago. I was now streaming Biosphere a perfect companion for this visit. Just outside of the Alcazaba is a Roman theater constructed in the first century BC, under Emperor Augustus. Another 1000 years back! Marvelous.
    But through this visit I kept on comparing the advanced state of society here to the wildness of Bronze Age forts I visited in Ireland.
    From here back down to the city towards the Malaga Cathedral my last stop without much time as my return bus would depart at 5 pm. Impressive cathedral but I lacked the time to devote to each of the many knaves. However, late I was running at one knave I lit two electronic candles in memory of Maggie and my Parents.
    It was past 4:30 and I had to retrace my steps. In a hurried pace I became disorientated questioning the direction. Thankfully Siri was in my pocket helping navigate my way back.
    The bus arrived and I sat in the first empty seat. This Malaga to Marbella bus stops at the airport. We stopped and several arriving passengers boarded.
    The seat next to me was vacant and a man about my age fit and tanned wearing sneakers and shorts sat down.
    John, a Londoner smiling with his bad British teeth was arriving from Nice. He’s been living in Marbella for the last two years. We talked and learned that he is bike rider. He has owned Harleys but has put 60,000 miles on his current BMW GS. Maybe I’m wrong. It may not be bad English dentistry but years of eating bugs on a HOG.
    However, that wouldn’t explain all the other craggily teeth evident across parts of the UK I’ve encountered. I wonder if the Londoner who was interested in buying our Chicago bungalow also had bad teeth.
    We arrived in Marbella. I said good bye to John, thanked the driver and decided to walk to the apartment. Downhill easy. I walked across some middle class neighborhoods another maybe unknown part of Marbella. But it was daylight and didn’t encounter any issues.
    Back at the apartment I dropped dead into the sofa. What a day! Not wanting to go out again I heated leftover rice and garbanzos while finishing the 10th episode of season two of Handmaids.
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