• Nestor Perea
Feb – Apr 2023

Spain to Germany

One year ago today I returned home to Chicago after spending 5 epic weeks motorcycling south to Tierra del Fuego, SA.
Tomorrow I board a flight to Malaga, Spain. I will spend all of March in Marbella exploring the spectacular Spanish Costa del Sol.
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  • Trip start
    February 27, 2023

    A New Aventure In A New Town

    February 28, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    Leaving today for Marbella, Spain where I will live for the next month. I am renting a one bedroom condo minutes away from the Old Town City Center as well as an 8 minute walk to the shores of the Mediterranean.
    I will immerse myself in the city's daily life, Andalusian and Spanish culture and visit the surrounding towns and villages.
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  • Layover in Brussels

    March 1, 2023 in Belgium ⋅ ☀️ 32 °F

    After years of flying business class I took the chance and flew United’s Premium Plus. I was anxious about it but no complaints. Seating was reminiscent of United’s Business Class seats of old but much improved. No there are no lay flat seats but decent recline and plenty of legroom. It’s a 2-3-2 configuration and I had a bulkhead aisle seat with the middle seat unoccupied. Lucky for me this fare saved some big dollars. Food decent with typical United service. They try hard but nowhere near the level provided on British, Lufthansa or Singapore Airlines.
    A line to get through Passport Control but it moved at a decent pace. I used to complain (to myself) about these queues but after years of standing and shuffling I now accept them as an expected part of travel.
    The longest lines I have stood in are arriving in Hong Kong late night during the SARS epidemic and entering Chile during Covid.
    When deplaning in Hong Kong all airport personnel were fully gowned and masked ushering hundreds and hundreds of passengers to temperature control checkpoints. It was an eerie scene, the darkness of night, smell of jet fuel, humid stale air, fluorescent airport lights, medical personnel scurrying in blue gowns probing electronic thermometers in their gloved hands. And us weary, helpless humans following their orders. Although with a population of a billion Chinese bureaucracy was efficient at moving the herd.
    Last year arriving at another airport this time in Santiago chile there was more intensive body check. There we succumbed to interviews, documentation checks, nasal pharyngeal swabs during the Covid outbreak. That wasn’t as alarming as Hong Kong but it took 1 hour and 45 minutes to get through the various medical stations before reaching immigration.
    Now one hour to board my flight to Malaga sitting here writing and listening to the various languages being spoken by waiting travelers.
    I’m finally in Europe as far away as I could get from MAGA Republicans and those Jewish Space Lasers.
    I wonder what crazy conspiracy theories will I encounter in Spain? Will this part of the world be also filled with lunacy?
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  • View from my 7th floor apartment.

    Home!

    March 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    I arrived at my apartment home for the next 31 days. It is very centrally located on Calle de Jacinto Benavente 7, Marbella.
    The manager, Mar, met me outside and gave me the grand tour. She is a lovely, friendly lady. Very conscientious.
    I then unpacked and went to the grocery store for a few items but bought more than anticipated and after grabbing a hand of bananas headed straight for jamón serrano which I had for dinner in a freshly made baguette. Yum. I lingered in the store inspecting the many new products to plan a nice dinner for myself.
    I then walked the neighborhood getting lost but acquainting myself thereby finding my way home. The gym where I’ve contracted a personal trainer for the month is just around the corner.
    Marbella is a large town but feels like a small village adorned with hanging flowers throughout its winding narrow streets.
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  • Local sidewalk. I've seen sidewalks like this in Lisbon.Local street in old town.A business entrance in Plaza de los Naranjos.The tiny street "Calle del Estrecho" with the restaurants!Well I guess its been discovered.The opposite end of the street.The Park with ornately painted seating.Another street.Plaza de los Naranjos church founded by the Catholic Kings in 1485.Like that third floor apartment!

    Becoming a Local

    March 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    What a lovely seaside town Marbella is. Bright sunny blue skies fresh air cool Mediterranean breeze.
    I can imagine ancient Roman soldiers around a beach campfire grilling sardines, the day's catch washing it all down with their daily allotment of wine. Wondering about family back home in Rome. Saying to themselves 'Rome is nice but all those politicians, the taxes, and the dusty lanes. España is the life for me." finally falling asleep on the sand seashore below star filled skies.
    Last night I couldn't keep my eyes open past ten pm. Even the Spaniards common use of foul language on TV couldn't keep me awake. So to bed I went hoping for an early start but didn't wake up until almost 8 am this morning. I made coffee, ate my daily banana and a croissant. Then read email and caught up on the US stock market only to receive my property tax bill but not letting it get me down.
    At 9:45 I walked over to the gym next door for my workout as I've hired a trainer for the duration of my stay here. Fernando is his name and after smiles and a handshake to work we got.
    It's a nice local gym no foreigners (except me) that was busy already. Clean, well equipped, and convenient. The training price is good a lot cheaper than in the US. In fact, I am finding prices much cheaper here than back home. The Euro is slightly higher than the dollar but not noticeable for either devices or groceries.
    I was to meet Mar the AirB&B manager who yesterday offered to give m a tour of Marbella to acquaint myself with the layout. At the specified time of 1 pm she was downstairs waiting. We began walking and talking. Mar is from the province of Leon in northern Spain but has lived around the world, China, Germany, and various parts of Spain but is now settles with he husband in Marbella. Her husband is responsible of the development and market introduction of automobiles internationally, VW, SEAT in the Chinese market. Now introducing a Chinese auto to the Spanish market.
    We first stopped in the fish market. Locally caught and fresh. Many odd the stalls not only sold fish but also will prepare fried or grill for you while you wait. I enjoy fish but cleaning, preparing and properly cooking has always been a challenge. So I will return. She also pointed out a little restaurant that makes paella but alerted me to reserve in advance as it sells out quickly. That's my plan for Saturday's dinner. So I will order tomorrow, pick it up Saturday for my evening meal her in the apartment. I then plain to walk to the waterfront promenade and walk those calories off. Maybe spot a Roman soldier in the distance.
    Next we walked through the beautiful old town pointing out the best restaurants where locals not tourists eat. Plaza de Olivas, Plaza de Naranjos, Plaza la Victoria (chocolate churros there) and the finest of streets not wider than 5 feet where her favorite and I must say hidden restaurant are located. One in particular Restaurant del Estrecho. Or Restaurant of the Narrow.
    From there we walked down to the beachfront walking through Marbella's "central" park adorned with Salvador Dalí sculptures.
    Restaurant filled streets Mar pointing out her favorites. We strolled south along the promenade and stopped looking across the Mediterranean Sea. Wow I could see the Rock of Gibraltar and the coast of Africa. How cool! Remembering those somewhat daydreamy days in elementary school geography class learning about these distant places.
    We continued on stopping for a capuchino at a small cafe run by an Italian couple. It was now lunchtime in Spain 2 pm. As we sat talking Mar's husband who was walking by spotted us and stopped to say hello. But couldn't stay as he was on his lunch break and needed to get back home for work. How come we don't work like that? European norms sure are different from America.
    Shortly thereafter we too got up and started walking back toward the apartment. Mar herself had to go take care of one of her 5 units that would have renters arriving tomorrow. We parted ways and I started toward home. But the aromas from the many establishments told my stomach not yet. So...
    I went in search of a tapas place she had highlighted. Oh but could not find it. So I headed to Central Park and retraced my steps. Finding it noting the outdoor tables were taken I went inside and found a table.
    I order three tapas dishes and a coke zero. Yeah no wine for me. Of the three tapas the cod croquettes were to die for. What savory bites for the soul. And all for 15 Euros. Going back there for certain.
    I love tapas. Start with one or two and continue ordering as the palate desires. Tonite I still fill good so no dinner. But tomorrow I plan to walk to Puerto Banus 5 miles south along the seashore promenade as I can't let this good eating ruin my well toned, athletic physique ;)!
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  • Letters fromAbove?
    Dali's wife "Gala at the Window."A Dali sculptureThe mouth of the Mediterranean Sea in the distance on the right Gibraltar, left Africa.

    A Day in the Old Town

    March 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    After a strenuous workout with Fernando this morning I headed back to the apartment to plan the days activities. Priority 1 was ordering paella for Saturday pickup at the local market. This is to be my meal Saturday evening. But first a light lunch of coffee and an almond croissant at the local bakery. Yes the morning's exercise demanded a bit of a carbo load to help get to the market.
    Crossing the street I entered the municipal market building and walked up to the second floor. The market place was filled with the lunch crowd. Sounds of talk amongst the clinking wine glasses and grilled fished welcomed me.
    I headed over to the little paella restaurant and was greeted by a friendly proprietor. "Hola señor!" I said. "Buenos días" he replied. I told him I wanted to order his famous paella for Saturday. His grin enlarged displaying a mouthful of broad pearly whites savoring the "famous" paella reference.
    "Necesito una reservacion?" I asked.
    "No. No es necesario" he replied.
    "Y a que hora paso para llevar?" I asked wanting to know when to come by to pick up the meal. And was told between 1:30-1:45 but not later.
    "Gracias. Quieres mi nombre?" I asked.
    " No yo me acordaré de ti." he said. Probably thinking I can't forget the tall distinguish baldheaded gentleman ordering my paella. I thanked him with a smile.

    Back into the market and down the stairs to the street I walked south or down as Marbella is built on the coastal hillsides so it is easy to navigate. Up hill is north away from the seashore and of course down is towards the Mediterranean. East or west requires a learning curve that in remembering landmarks as the Old Town or "Ciudad Antigua" is known is a puzzle of meandering cobble stone streets. On my first venture out a few days ago I ended up walking in a circle only to have made little progress finding myself where I had begun.

    In no hurry enjoying the narrow passages with a small 35mm digital SONY camera in hand I wondered about. The camera is a perfect traveling companion lent to me by a best friend and ex-Abbott colleague. Thank you Rob. No heavy camera strap around my neck slowing me down. But it gets lost in my big hands my long fingers inadvertently touching the wrong buttons when trying to frame a shot. Although I did manage to shoot quite a number of photos tomorrow I will use the 3 pounder Nikon instead.

    I reached the seashore promenade and walked west as I wanted to find a seafood restaurant "Las Olas" pointed out by Mar. Its right on the water below the promenade with an extensive menu. I hope to get the fish espetos. This is a local method of skewering 12 sardines or a single larger fish on a spike and grilling it next to a hot pile of leña. It is a cooking method local to this region of Spain.

    Returning home after a long walk I watch a little Spanish television news. Nothing new here though. Young woman stabbed to death by her boyfriend. A construction company Ferrovial's move to Holland seeking lower tax rates. The move controversial because it's taking place ahead of Spanish elections and the company has been accused of not paying any tax in 2020. And another story of a football team owner caught on camera with is mistress. Nothing new in the "news."

    At 8 pm I headed over to a local restaurant La Polaca but is was crowded. So I left and headed towards that little narrow passage El Estrecho in the Old Town. It too was crowded but I managed to get a table in back. I ordered a beer (0.0% alcohol) and asked for a recommendation from the tapas menu. Three dishes ordered, country style meatballs (three small and delicious) with papas fritas, grilled pimiento salad and a plate of grilled anchovies. Not bad at all. Small but filling dishes topped off with an espreso.

    The streets filled with Friday night revelers, couples and families as I made my way back to the apartment. Wide awake from the espresso I watched a Netflix show but by midnight my droopy eyelids were interested in sleep.

    Tomorrow the paella and more sightseeing!
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  • A Relaxing Saturday

    March 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    What a nice day this Saturday in Spain turned out to be. A bit of shopping then home planning my next destination after Spain.

    But I did get to the Municipal Market for my paella. I had to wait a few minutes but the proprietor did remember me. So I took a few minutes to walk the market, inspect the various seafood stands and purchased vegetables for tomorrow's dinner.

    When I returned there were two containers filled with paella. I paid about €7 using my European debit card and rushed home to eat. I devoured one container saving the other for tonite.

    Oh and was it ever the best paella I have eaten. Maybe I was just hungry? No it was deliciously excellent! The picture does not convey well the lovely texture, taste or aroma. I thought about plating it for a nice photograph but I was too inpatient. So I ate right out of the container! No time to lose.

    I am home for the evening with plenty of food. Tomorrow I am meeting a best friend of my younger sister Elsa for lunch at the beach. An easy weekend allowing the calmness of time to revitalize me.
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  • A Cool Rain Fell on Marbella

    March 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Sunday afternoon I was invited by family friends to lunch on the beach at a place called La Red. Bryan and Lidia picked me up in their long wheel based Jaguar. Feeling like British royalty ensconced in the rear seat off we went. It was a sunny afternoon and the beach restaurants were crowded especially since it was lunch time 2:30 pm. A Sunday tradition - paella!
    We managed a table and ordered drinks and Paella Mixta for three. Mixta consist of both seafood and land proteins typically chicken and/or some sort of pork sausage. It was a beautiful presentation and we hastily ate with abandon. But couldn't finish it all so I took home the remaining portion, about a fifth of the dish.
    From there went by car to Puerto Banus the Monaco of Spain whose harbor is filled with multimillion dollar yachts and whose streets are cruised my six figure + automobiles. Not a Toyota or Nissan in sight not even a Tesla. The stores required a loaded wallet with platinum credit cards and most likely a credit score verification check! But we managed coffee at a small harbor front cafe within my spending limit.
    Puerto Banus is the playground of very wealthy Arabs. Millionaires and billionaires.
    Sunday evening I couldn't think of eating anymore. The weather was turning colder and the clouds began hiding the mountain tops. An Atlantic front was reaching the coast with 100% rain forecasted. So I stayed in and found The Handmaid's Tale streaming on Prime. Having wanted to see this series for sometime and liking Elizabeth Moss acting ability I tuned in. She was was really good in Shining Girls which I recommend.
    Monday was wet, cold and dreary. The incessant rain not letting up. The mountains to the north still shrouded in fog. Not much to do or see. So after a vigorous hour long workout I did not venture out again. Luckily I had planned farmers market run on Saturday enabling me to able to prepare a tasteful vegetarian dish of Japanese eggplant, yellow bell peppers, red onion, a red spicy pepper, and garlic with a good pinch of sea salt sautéed in Spanish extra virgin olive oil. It was perfect.
    The veggies and fruit from this organic market are locally grown. I found the pears, plums and bananas to have a very earthy flavor. I could literally taste the earth they were grown in. It was so different from the usual fruits that I purchase at big box markets.
    Taking a break from The Handmaids I turned to watch Spanish news programing. Elections are coming up and the biggest story from the weekend is a bill up for approval to increase the penalties for sexual abuse of women and the transgendered minorities rights. It was reported that the increasing rate of female homicides particularly by boyfriends or husbands is serious enough to enact stiffer laws.
    The political parties including the Spanish Socialist Workers Party, Podemos Party, Party of the Citizenry, The People's Party and the VOX Party have voiced their opinions. The parties representatives make up the Spanish Congress of Deputies and Senate. All parties are in agreement that more needs to be done to protect women's rights with large protest marches over the weekend in the major cities across Spain. The only party opposed to the legislation is the VOX party. No surprise here as it the conservative party. I fail to understand its reasoning and support.
    Tomorrow Tuesday the rains are to subside and the sun returns. The forecast is for clear skies with no rain for the week ahead with daytime temperature in the 70s.
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  • The World is Mad! Or is it?

    March 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    News of the Day - The Highlights
    1. Shakira leaves Spain for Miami. The Nation is traumatized.
    2. The Butcher Tattoo Artist of Valdemore is sentenced. Crime: killing a client and keeping her inked skin as a trophy. His girlfriend also sentenced as an accomplice.
    3. Coverage on how much gas we humans pass per day. I have nothing further to add.
    4. Helicopter crashes. The pilot a Madrid fireman survives but tests positive for cocaine and amphetamines.
    5. People changing the color of their eyes. Doctors are firmly cautioning against procedure.
    Last but not least
    6. Doctor sued for €67, 500 by patient after correction for Peyroni's disease. Patient lost 6 cm (2.36 inches) of length.

    On a brighter note I went back to the market and bought more veggies plus two types of sausage. Had two small ones for dinner. Savory and tasty!

    Worm Moon rise over Marbella (photo sans tripod). This is the last full moon of astronomical winter and known as the Worm Moon. Other name for this moon include Goose Moon, Snow Crust Moon, the Eagle Moon and the Sugar Moon.
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  • A Walk Up into the Hills

    March 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    It was time to get to know some of the surrounding neighborhood near my building. Walking south I took a right and began to ascend a long winding road rising at a very steep incline. On its south side were white walled modern homes with high security walls. This was no ordinary neighborhood.
    The road continued up until it reached a plateau and intersection. I went left and continued walking. Each home a modern block interspersed with old traditional structures some well maintained others aging. Wandering and absorbing life in this part of the world. At what do these denizen of Marbella work?
    Streets well maintained and for the most part sidewalks in good condition with some crumbling exceptions. Most importantly dog walkers seem pick up after their pets. I've been to many cities where the people don't seem to care finding sidewalks strewn with "deposits." London come to mind.
    I walked lost in the intertwining streets but knew that down was to the Mediterranean and thereby Marbella center.
    It was now mid-day sunny and warm. I continued on until I had seen enough and started downhill eventually coming to the municipal market where I have been shopping for vegetable and fruit. Not lost at all.
    I made my way to a bench and shade in the historic town center. It was busy with many obvious tourists wandering, cameras in hand, taking selfies, eating at cafes. I found a seat in Plaza de los Naranjos. I really wanted a coffee but had left without my wallet. So now I sat watching others walk as I people watched.
    That evening I met Mar and her husband at a vey popular tapas bar called Lekune. Dinner was set for 8:30. I have come to know the area so finding the restaurant was easy and not far from my place.
    Through the tall glass walls of the restaurant I saw Mar seated at a table. It was 8:30 and apparently this Spaniard commits to being on time. Although her husband arrived later due to conference calls he had to take. I remember those.
    The restaurant full. The atmosphere energetic. The people in lively conversations.
    Seeing the servers walking around carrying trays of tapas didn't immediately occur to me that this was different type of tapas bar. In fact not a menu in sight. And each tapas on those severs trays were skewered with either a long or short toothpick. Sure to hold it together was one eats it.
    It was a fun experience as without a menu servers walk around to each table with a tray of a specific tapas. They approach tell the diner what it is and if desired it is placed on ones plate. This interaction creates a friendly conversation between sever and dinner.
    I started with the Spanish tortilla (omelette) not to be mistaken for a Mexican tortilla. It was delicious. I took the skewer out and Mar told me to drop it in the empty glass on the table. OK.
    Each tapas different and with the exception of the tortilla each was served atop a small baguette slice. Next came a wonderful piece of cod beneath a savory sauce. The fish felt apart at the touch of my fork. Then a petite marinated brisket that melted in my mouth, lean shredded beef, an beef empanada, and what else? I lost tracked but finally could not eat more.
    We continued our conversation getting to know each other, life in Spain, the US.
    It was around 10:30 that we decided it was time get the check. Two hours at a table. Not rushed, not asked to leave. All very leisurely.
    I offered to pay the check but they insisted that it was their invitation and therefore their treat.
    Signaling one of the server for the check. She stepped over holding a tray of tapas in the air. As se did so she emptied the glass with the deposited skewers/toothpicks and counted them. Thirteen in all. Each of those skewers had a value. The long ones higher value than the short ones. That was our bill.
    I learned that this is a traditional way of serving tapas in the north of Spain. What an enjoyable night. Who needs a mobile device to scan a barcode pasted on a table top? Or read through a menu to figure out what to order? Traditions are good.
    All finished we said our good-byes parted. Noting there was now less automobile traffic and pedestrians I made my way home. Full from the meal, culturally satisfied.
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  • No motorcycle, bus!
    Ticket to MalagaLovely lady. Almond seller. I could've spoken to her more. My Spanish and good made an impression.Book sellers on the main promenade.Saving the world one tourist at a timeExactly similar windows as found on Old HavanaEntance to museumPIcasso authorizing the Woman Sculpture for Chicago's Civic PlazaLove the Spanish word desafiantes describing the women he painted translates into challenging · defLIte lunchBuskingAlcazabaRampart doorwayCathedral windows

    Malaga, Spain

    March 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    It’s in the mid 70s today so what better weather than a day trip to Malaga birthplace of Pablo Picasso.
    I was up early, had a nice breakfast coffee, a banana and papaya plus some bread bread purchased yesterday at the market.
    I took the #2 bus to the (1.09€) Marbella Central Bus Terminal to catch the intercity bus to Malaga about an hour 10 ride along the autopista.
    Arriving at the Málaga bus terminal I had about 1.2 mile walk to the Picasso Museum. I hung my Aftershokz over the ears vibrating ends resting on my temples. Locked in the museum address and hit play on my iPhone. Immediately “I Ain’t No Thief” from “Cave World” Viagra Boys new album came on. To the rhythm of the music I made my way towards the museum along the broad leafy promenade. The music now playing Punk Rock Loser and Siri interrupting with directions. “In 200 meters turn left at Avenida de Los Reyes.” I complied. On occasion she had difficulty with the Spanish names forcing me to look at my phone. While Sebastian frontman of the Boys singing “…And I don't go to parties where folks get dressed up
    I go to the function just to fuck shit up…” just in time to hear wailing sirens following marching protesters. I stopped to watch and take a few photos. I got up on an empty bench an another guy joined me. I ask what the protesters were all about. They were unionized transportation employees. He said that since pre-COVID they have not had raises nor improved working conditions. I guess punk rock loser everywhere even in Spain.
    I thanked him and continued towards the museum. Now walking the streets of the ancient old town dating back to Roman times I wandered absorbing the aroma from the many cafes. The banter of tourists and locals enjoying a sunny warm day. Some languages recognizable, others Nordic or Eastern European indecipherable. There were lots of people on the narrow streets and a line to enter the museum.
    I dislike lines they remind me of preparatory school, obey or detention Mr. Perea. I stood silent but the line moved efficiently probably taking about 15 minutes to reach the entrance. I stepped inside and checked my backpack, paid the €9.50, asked for an audio set, had my ticket scanned making my way to the galleries.
    It was mesmerizing. What an incredible artist. The exhibit spanned his career from his earliest works at the beginning of the 20th century until his death at 91 in 1973. What painter and visionary.
    I just saw the Dali exhibit in Chicago and was also impressed. But Picasso in my opinion by far surpasses Dali. I have now been to the Picasso Museum in Barcelona and the Dali Museum in Girona, Spain so feel lucky to view these masterpieces.
    I highly recommend this Picasso museum and the one in Barcelona or the Reina Sofia in Madrid which has works of both artist. I thank my dad who instilled the live of art in us.
    I left the museum my brain’s right hemisphere electrified, visual memories a slide show parsing each piece seen as my stomach oblivious clamoring for food.
    All the cafes were crowded. Now 2 pm lunch time in Spain. But I managed an espresso, ham and cheese croissant at an elegant bakery.
    I next found my way to the Alcazaba the Moorish fortress dating back to the 10th century. Walking the ramparts imagining what life must have been like 1000 years ago. I was now streaming Biosphere a perfect companion for this visit. Just outside of the Alcazaba is a Roman theater constructed in the first century BC, under Emperor Augustus. Another 1000 years back! Marvelous.
    But through this visit I kept on comparing the advanced state of society here to the wildness of Bronze Age forts I visited in Ireland.
    From here back down to the city towards the Malaga Cathedral my last stop without much time as my return bus would depart at 5 pm. Impressive cathedral but I lacked the time to devote to each of the many knaves. However, late I was running at one knave I lit two electronic candles in memory of Maggie and my Parents.
    It was past 4:30 and I had to retrace my steps. In a hurried pace I became disorientated questioning the direction. Thankfully Siri was in my pocket helping navigate my way back.
    The bus arrived and I sat in the first empty seat. This Malaga to Marbella bus stops at the airport. We stopped and several arriving passengers boarded.
    The seat next to me was vacant and a man about my age fit and tanned wearing sneakers and shorts sat down.
    John, a Londoner smiling with his bad British teeth was arriving from Nice. He’s been living in Marbella for the last two years. We talked and learned that he is bike rider. He has owned Harleys but has put 60,000 miles on his current BMW GS. Maybe I’m wrong. It may not be bad English dentistry but years of eating bugs on a HOG.
    However, that wouldn’t explain all the other craggily teeth evident across parts of the UK I’ve encountered. I wonder if the Londoner who was interested in buying our Chicago bungalow also had bad teeth.
    We arrived in Marbella. I said good bye to John, thanked the driver and decided to walk to the apartment. Downhill easy. I walked across some middle class neighborhoods another maybe unknown part of Marbella. But it was daylight and didn’t encounter any issues.
    Back at the apartment I dropped dead into the sofa. What a day! Not wanting to go out again I heated leftover rice and garbanzos while finishing the 10th episode of season two of Handmaids.
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  • Old Marbella. Little Streets Everywhere.

    March 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Early Sunday morning walk. My place was cleaned today so decided to get out of the way and get lost in the Old City. Hardly anyone out. I donned the headpiece Brian Eno vibrating my temples as I wandered into the maze of brick and stone streets . Up and down. Across and to the other side. Down steps to the right. Past a religious grotto and to the left. Left, right, back or forward. Which way?

    Totataly lost and a bit disoriented. Recalling a large maze on the Malecon the seafront drive in Havana that my aunt would take me to as a child. Unnerving as I was shorter than thus unable to see over the wall thinking I would never be able to find the exit. I’m lost forever! But suddenly I was out or back where I had begun. My aunt waving at me. "Can I go again I would ask?” Always seeking the thrill of the unknown. She never tired alway letting me go again and again. Sweet dreams.

    Old Marbella is like that but of course now as an adult I know I will find my way out.
    But what if I didn’t? No when you think that you find yourself going down one tiny alley and you are back in the same location. And that’s without a Tardis or Transporter Room.

    I found several nice looking little hotels scattered about. Peeking through the entrance doors and windows all looked very well restored and modernized. It would make for a romantic getaway for newlyweds or a couple looking for a refresh.

    There are also multiple little restaurants in this area one them with Michelin stars. Many are not near main Plaza de las Naranjas which is a beautiful place in the center of town but draws a lot of tourists.

    I sat on a park bench the rays of the Spanish morning sun warming my cheeks while enjoying the solitude. But after a short while from one of those little alleys a group Belgian, or Swiss or Danes appeared. Speaking loudly all dressed in similar colored shirts and shorts a sigil on the breast, sneakers on their feet. It turned out it was a teamn building exercise. How cool! Perfect site. It would be fun in this maze of streets. My reverie broken I had to leave.
    There is a city in Cuba whose streets are an intricate maze that only locals know how to navigate. Over the years it was intentiaonlly designed as such to catch and thwart marauders pirates wwho came up river to loot. But once the looting and probably too much rum they could not find they way bak to their waiting boats.
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  • A Sunday Afternoon Tradition

    March 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Sunday afternoon 1:30 I waited for my new friends Brian and Lidia to pick me. They had invited me to join them for lunch. Today we were going to their favorite beachside place called La Perla Blanca.
    It would also be my chance once again to ride in the luxurious interior of the metallic brown Jaguar saloon. I was thinking I would wave at passerbys as the Queen of England
    used to do. She was in a Land Rover. But no matter I felt very royal in the Jaguar.
    Leaning against my building looking down at my iPhone reading the latest news from the States I heard a car horn. I looked up and saw Brian and Lidia in a “Oh no” compact Peugeot! Lidia go out we greeted each other with a kiss on either cheek and said I could sit in front. It was too cramped for my long legs in the back. Well there was to be no queen waving (hand held straight up rotating side to side) to the denizens of Marbella today. And I had practiced all week!
    I got in the front and off we went. Brian said that he was driving this car as it was easier to park at the beach. I get it. I am as picky about which car to drive depending on were I am going. No way would I ever park the titanium silver M3 in a Marianos parking lot. Not even up in scale Whole Foods.
    La Perla had quite an extensive menu. For starters we opted for calamari rings and shrimp atop of avocado slices smothered in a delicate creamy sauce. Fo the main entree it was to be Casserole Rice with Red King Prawns. This seafood dish is similar to paella but soupier in consistency.
    We devoured it. And then retired to the patio of their expansive home in Marbella. There Brian told many of his finest stories as the captain of British Airways Concord. Concord pilots, only 22 of them, as part of the boarding protocol were required to greet all passengers many of whom he befriended including Elton John, the Rat Pack, and other celebrities.
    It was now about 6 pm and the idea came up again of getting some food. I wasn’t really hungry but what the hell why not. It was to be Indian curries I having mentioned that with as many British expats in Marbella there surely must be good Indian restaurants. And yes indeed I was right. And we took the Jag!
    The Restaurant Bombay to Goa was the destination. Brian having Indian ancestry did the ordering but I opted for the Vindaloo, he for the Bindi and Lidia a mild lamb rogan josh. Plus Pilau rice and nam bread filled with coconut.
    The restaurant is located in La Cala de Mijas an expat community town. Elegant and well maintained shopping areas. Instead of waiting for the order we drove down the coastal road to the town of Fuengirola. It would be my chance of doing the wave.
    In Fuengirola inching along the busy seafront I had the chance. At a stop light a passerby was gazing at the car. He saw me in back. My hand ready. But I froze as all I could do was break a weak smile. Cowardly royal that was!
    Fuengirola is the last coastal town before Malaga. Returning back to pick up our order we took highway A-340 west. The order was ready and before long I was back in my apartment savoring my spicy Chicken Vindaloo in front of the TV.
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  • A Night of Flamenco

    March 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Hello FindPenguinites! I am here at my very small keyboard my iPhone with a new post. I had not written as Monday there was little to convey and Tuesday a Chicago friend arrived for a short visit.
    Wednesday I was up early for my personal training workout. My trainer keeps pushing m limits with higher intensity workouts. However, he does not dare make me do burpees. Later this morning Mar the condo manager was to bring mybtrain ticket she had printed for my trip to Seville. She is so sweet. She also brought small round custard filled pastries baked this time of year in celebration of Easter.
    After she left we took public transit to the Sixt branch to pick up the rental car. I was expecting an Audi A3 we’re offered a BMW X2 but drove away in a new Peugeot 3008 SUV. Nice vehicle except for the numb steering response. Otherwise functional.
    It was 1:30 for our drive NE to the City of Granada A hour and a half trip. Great driving on the autopista across mountain tops and through some long tunnels. Scenery was majestic with the snow capped Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance framed by the bluest of sky. The surrounding hills and slopes dressed with orchards of olive trees.
    I had a reservations at the Alhambra Palace Hotel located at the foot of the El Alhambra historic site.
    At 6:30 in evening we took a long downhill walk into the Albaicin area of the city to see a flamenco show. The Albaicin is the old Jewish quarter of Granada.
    I have seen flamenco on previous trips always enjoying them. The most innovative was the Dracula story by a touring flamenco troupe in Miami Beach. This show like the others was filled energy and emotion. The performers especially the woman dancer conveyed such great feeling. Her dark eyes piercing into ours as we sat spellbound by her movements, the communicative strength of her heeled dance shoes striking the wooden floor with force. Her arms waving around her sculpted face while her fingers snapped with the rhythm of the dance.
    Then there was the singer/poet/storyteller with a mane of peppery curly locks singing with a deep voice whose words faded in memories of the past. These words s string of mellifluous beads reverberating through the subterranean vault that my Apple Watch warned me of dangerous high decibels. Well having hundreds of rock concerts it didn’t concern me.
    I was lucky to understand what he sang. One song of everyday life about his daughter and he sailing on a paper ship to build a mountain home for them, his guitar and dog. Some songs sad tales while other songs about friendship, brotherhood and God. All these songs carrying the gypsy culture from which they arose. Touching, warm, beautiful but with the force of a wandering people.
    There was also the masterful guitarist who working the string retelling an obvious story. It too held the same emotional impact as the singer and dancers. And lastly the male dancer with strength in body language who like the woman could whirl in a new direction in keeping with the story, the clapping, and rhythm of the guitar.
    The show lasted an hour . The tiny vault filled with applause as the performers bowed and exited the stage.
    We were energized but now faced the steep uphill climb to the hotel.
    It was cold and I was wearing a short sleeve polo nearly shivering in the 50 degree evening temperature. But bounded by towering evergreens and two channels of running water we climbed. The rushing rivulets induced a meditative state that temporarily encapsulated me against the cold brushing my bare arms.
    Tomorrow the tour of El Alhambra almost 20 years to the day I first visited Granada.
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  • Entrance of Justice
    Tower within AlcazabaCity of GranadaRenaissance Palace within the Alcazaba Fortress built by Charles VInterior of Renaissance PalaceNasrid Palace interior fountain.Wall decorationArches, arches, archesArchesBlue paint used by Muslim rulersAlhambra from the GeneralifeAlhambraAlhambraChurch in AlhambraChurchAlbaicinAlbaicin

    El Alhambra, Granada

    March 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    A three hour private tour of the Alhambra, Nasrid Palaces and Generalife. Exquisite UNESCO World Heritage site. Home to the Muslim rulers of the Iberian peninsula. Last stronghold before the Catholic King and QueenFerdinand and Isabella regained control of Spain. Isabella from Castile and Ferdinand from Aragon the first monarchs who consolidated power to defeat the Muslims.
    The site is impressive. But once inside the throne room of the Nasrid kings (Muslim) the sweep of history overwhelms, knowing that this very room is where Ferdinand and Isabella greeted Columbus financing his voyages to the New World.
    I must emphasize to all that a visit to this classic, historic city is a must.
    We then checked out of the hotel finding a restaurant with an outdoor terrace across from the Alhambra to have lunch. Sitting beneath a canopy of fragrant citrus trees for a relaxed lunch. Ordering albóndigas caseras con patatas and solomillo a la parrilla a welcomed respite in the warming midday air before embarking on the drive west to Cordoba.
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  • The Roman Bridge
    Bridge fortressCórdoba architectureChristian tower inside the islamic Mezquita.Bridge fortress illuminated.Bridge, Old Town, Mezquita and CathetdralAnother view of the lit tower.Tower was protected by a deep moat.

    Evening in Córdoba

    March 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    The highway to Córdoba once again took us through sloping hillsides speckled with olive trees. Undulating and twisting through green valleys and rocky outcroppings. It was a two hour drive from Granada. I wonder how long it took the king’s caravan to travel these 130 miles? Well armored and protected royal caravan passing through these valleys a perfect target from marauding peasants. A surprise ambush. Now 800 years later traveling across this landscape the Peugeot’s electronic sensors warning me of my speed and upcoming radar cameras. Buzzing loudly snd incessantly as the vehicle enters these invisible ambushes. No longer mortal combat or blood stained garments today’s travelers succumb a different ambush. The type that takes you breadth away and you question when the credit card statement arrives declaring the speeding fine.
    Arriving at the apartments location in Córdoba a man in a utility uniform approached the car as I was attempting to park. He signaled with a wave to stop. Gear pressed into Park I activated my window down.
    The man clean cut, blue eyes, trimmed beard called out my name, “Néstor?” “ then Soy Nícolas.”
    I greeted him. What a surprise. He was just off work and knew I was arriving around 3:30. His car was parked on this street offering me his space instead of the reserved indoor garage. He emphasized that it was a very safe neighborhood although it’s appearance screamed working class. Of course I said. It’s a rental car so I don’t care where I park it.
    His wife was in their waiting Peugeot same model as the one I was driving and pulled out of the spot. Gear selector in reverse with a perfect turn of the steering “wheel” (its rectangular) I eased the 3008 in one perfect motion. The tires merely a few inches from the curb.
    Damn I’m a good driver!
    Got out grabbed my back pack the other bag and walked across the street where Nicolas was waiting.
    He was a chatty most friendly guy covering the dos&donts of the rental apartment especially the No Fumar restriction. Crossing another narrow street his wife leaned out of their car’s window saying hello. Pretty lady, welcoming smile.
    Nicolas paused to point to the grocery store and the direction of the Mezquita.
    He noticed my car lights had not yet turned off so I again press the lock on the key fob to no effect. Oh well, let’s got up to the unit finding it newly remodeled, small, clean and comfortable.
    We settled. Planned a trip to the grocery stored and when ready to go I realized I had left my wallet in the car. Grabbed the keys and down we went. I saw that the car’s parking lights were still illuminated. Weird.
    As I approached I heard the quiet murmur of the engine. I had left the car running! Forgetting to push and briefly hold the Start/Stop button. Dumb! Glad I left my wallet in it as it may have run all night or driven off without us.
    That evening around 7 we decided to go explore the old city and have dinner. Sacrilegious of course since restaurants don’t open until 8. But one was open and an early dinner was what we hoped for. But what a mistake. No Spaniards eating here just tourists like us. And of course the worse, most insipid meal served in this ancient now modern day Andalusian restaurant!
    However, walking back we stopped for a sorbet that was simply delicious!
    Home to make yesterdays Penguin entry and to bed.
    Quick note. Cordoba was a major Roman city dating back to 200BC when the bridge was first built across the Guadalquivir River then called the Baetis. It was a major transportation center through its history well into the 18th when the river who’s mouth is at the Atlantic Ocean filled with silt ending its rein as one of Spain’s main rivers. It still carries water from the Sierra but is mostly a natural environment for a diverse flora and fauna.
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  • The Mezquita and Cathedral

    March 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Awoke this morning to a brisk drizzly day. After a couple of cups of coffee headed out across the Roman Bridge to the Mezquita. The Great Mosque of Córdoba. Construction begun in the year 785. An expansive mosque the largest in the Islamic world that took 200 years to complete. The structure has 850 columns supporting its roof. It is so big that in the 16th century a Cathedral was constructed in its center. Scattered throughout were Christian iconography, statuary, altars, small chapels, and a room with large silver reliquaries.
    Overall quite impressive. But it failed to inspire me. However, the exterior protective walls were massive denoting a powerful force within.
    On the road again to the last stop of the week the mountain town of Ronda. But first a stop at a bakery shop buying three pasteles for the road. One each chicken, 5 cheese and chocolate. Now these were inspiring.
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  • Ronda, a mountain hamlet

    March 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Surrounded by a sea of mountains and green rolling valleys Ronda sits atop a crest famous for its white washed buildings and the bridge that connects the northern and southern sides of town. The New Bridge of Ronda was proposed by King Felipe V in 1735 to improve upon an earlier 16th century bridge further upstream. The bridge which spans the Tajo Gorge spans 98 meters, more than 300 feet. The gorge itself cut by the Guadalquivir River is 100 meters deep.
    Just below the span there exists a prison no longer utilized that had many a prisoner falling to their deaths. This bridge was an engineering marvel in the 18th century and is now supporting the growing city of Ronda and the ever increasing number of annual visitors.
    The AirB&B that I rented for the night was right on the mountains high cliff providing with unobstructed spectacular views of the valley and mountain peaks. The community not only is dependent on tourism but also on the farmlands surrounding the river and valleys framing the gorge. It was a beautiful day when we arrived but later that evening it was jackets as the temps at this evaluation had dropped into the low 50s.
    Friday was our return home to Marbella. But first we took a short walking tour of the town in search of breakfast. What we found was a a small but lively cafe making fresh churros. We sat down ordered two cafe con leches. I had my usual plain croissant and Doug ordered a grilled ham and cheese sandwich. But we also order one churro to split which came to the table warm and crispy.
    About two blocks away was the public car park. In between was the city church which we entered and as is my usual habit made an offering., 4 candles. The church was not ornate simply a house of worship for the community. But its lovely exterior was welcoming. Behind and the side was the convent with a small store selling baked goods made by the Carmelite nuns. We stopped in to buy some of their pastries but it was closed until after Mass had concluded later that morning. Oh well, Sisters some other time.
    Finally in the car, the GPS directing us we were on a road headed south towards Marbella. Like all sinewy mountain roads this one was traversed by many, many motorcycles mostly tourers but also crotch rockets. I would have enjoyed being on two wheels. This was prime motorcycle heaven.
    Marbella is only 30 miles from Ronda but takes about an hour travel time because these mountains prevent any high speed driving. We got into Marbella found a Shell station in Puerto Banus and returned the Peugeot to the Sixt agency. This road trip was easy, fun and educational giving a deeper appreciation of Spanish culture and the long history of the Iberian peninsula, Visigoths, Romans, Moors, Christian. Plus seeing three historic Andulusian cities.
    It was also nice to have my good friend pay me a visit and join me on this three city tour. One never really gets accustomed to traveling solo at least not fully so its was nice having a companion to share the sites and to discuss the experiences.
    Next week will be my last trip here in Spain. Three nights in Seville. However, I will not be be driving instead I will travel by high speed train. Malaga to Sevilla is typical a 4 plus hour drive. This train does it in two. Should be an exciting ride.
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  • Left African coast Morocco. Right EU coast, Gibraltar.

    Two Mighty Land Masses

    March 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Sunday afternoon under a clear, very blue sky and sea as gulls flew overhead their calls carried through the warm air I stopped to gaze at the horizon. In the distance visible to my eyes this sunny day were two sibling continents. Continents which are slowly inching towards reunification. Today their distance allows the sea to join the ocean beyond. In some distant future this great sea witness to history will become land locked.
    This is the Strait of Gibraltar.
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  • En Route to Sevilla

    March 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Twelve thirty pm Tuesday afternoon. I am at the Marbella Bus station waiting for the 1 pm to Malaga. I took the city bus here having loaded money onto the fare card when I arrived earlier this month. There are two fare cards at the apartment for renters use. It’s a nice touch by Mar the owner.
    Fare cards can be loaded directly on the city buses. I would have walked yo the station as it’s only a mile. But my trainer kicked my butt again today. And what the hell the walk to the station is uphill!
    From Malaga bus station it’s a short walk to the train station.
    This will be my last trip out of Marbella. I have 9 days to go in this friendly city. And it has been a relaxing few weeks. Weather exquisite. People are super friendly including strangers. Just this morning window washers in the building lobby greeted me. Oh and my Spanish excellent with a few additional words added to my vocabulary.
    Marbella has also been a good base from where to travel to other destinations. But now I realize that beyond the beaches, shopping and restaurants it doesn’t have much else to offer. Therefore, this intercity bus to Malaga or other destinations is essential. There are no trains here.
    My original intent was to stay in Malaga but couldn’t find an AirB&B to my liking. As with all my travels I learn to adapt and make the best of it.
    Now at the Malaga María Zambrano Train station with a two and a half hour wait until the Seville bound train departs.
    The station is modern, clean, and spacious. It is connected to a shopping mall filled with stores and eateries. This mall is no different from any other nondescript American mall. It could be placed anywhere, Kansas City or Pasadena.
    Luckily I’ve found a quiet table between Burger King, Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen and KFC. A strong American presence that overtakes the other eateries.
    I stay away from the fast food chains back home and more so here.
    Instead I opted for a cafe con leche and a palmira or elephant ears. Delicious with coffee. Once in Sevilla this evening I’ll find a tapas place before settling for the night.
    Tomorrow a tour of the Sevilla Cathedral, Alcázar and La Giralda.
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  • Waiting to board
    Bar EstrellaGreat for tapasEating under the bullsLooking outLots of characterA little plaza, another church

    When Google Maps is Invaluable

    March 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    The train’s punctual arrival into Sevilla was welcoming. It entered the station at 6:25 pm. Along the way it made a few stops letting passengers off while new travelers boarded. The last stop was Cordoba. During the transit I kept my iPhone off due to a diminished battery with no outlets on the train! Heresy! My iPhone was vital as it had to get me to the rental B&B in the historic city center about a 1.5 miles distant from the station b
    While waiting to disembark I switched on the phone. Pulling up google maps and the saved address as I stepped on the platform. Now ensued my hurried pace to complete this trek before the phone would go dark. In that case without a charged phone I would have way to contact the host, follow directions to the address or get into the building.
    Adventures come in all sizes. Some planned others surprises. Both satisfy the thrill of travel. Live on the edge but disallow fear to overtake rational thinking. Focus and relegate the the mind’s doubting voice to the rear. Successful mission is paramount.
    As I walked through wide boulevards busy with motos, cars and stand up scooters the architecture slowly changed. Just as suddenly beyond one corner as the traffic disappeared I entered old Sevilla. Another place. A labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets with nary a sidewalk now 1000 years old.
    Marbella was a maze. Sevilla is a another dimension. A 5000 piece puzzle.
    Carefully I listened to Google directions while at the same time avoiding a scooter crossing my path or noiselessly approaching from behind. Stepping into the tiny streets looking left and right.
    In Spain, street names are up on the sides of buildings. So it is important to see those as Google’s attempt at Spanish is subpar.
    I noted battery life quickly depleting and still many meters to go. Will I make it? I had to view the map knowing that it would draw critical power.
    This race to the finish line or battery was the use of direction but also calling a phone number the only was to buzz the entry door. Medieval city, modern convenience. Sixty meters to go. I’m going to make it? Yes I did!
    Now time for tapas.
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  • Inner cortyard frim the second floorBuildings in the neighborhood

    Sevilla

    March 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    If I were blindfolded, the ambient temperature around 82 degrees and placed in this historic center I would have guessed I was in Havana. These streets are familiar, comforting. This is my heritage. The culture of my youth. The culture I carry in the recesses of my mind. Now they tug at me as the winding streets and buildings speak as I gaze at them. I could live here.
    Havana’s architecture is the same of course the only difference is that the buildings are now so decrepit that at least one collapses daily.
    Sevilla was founded on the Guadalquivir River a busy waterway that allowed access to the Atlantic Ocean and beyond. Likely the port that Columbus used on his voyage to the New World.
    It was also very likely that my Spanish ancestors lived and walked these streets in the 17th and 18th centuries prior to their own departure is search of new lives in Cuba.
    This I know for certain as my great great grandfather Enrique was a general in the Spanish Armada. He was stationed in Veracruz, Mexico and Santiago, Cuba. After being called back to Spain and after his passing his wife Adela took the children back to Cuba.
    And now I walk these streets. Every step meaningful.
    The place I am staying at is Calle San Isidoro 12. It was most likely a single family home with large entry doors to allow the carriage and horse and household goods into the open inner courtyard. The rooms around the courtyard and in the second floor where the living quarters now converted into individual apartments. My apartment on the second floor is two stories with living area and kitchen on the “first” and bedroom and bathroom on the second.
    It’s a reminder of my great aunt’s home in Havana now the Venezuelan Embassy with its large inner courtyard surrounded by the living quarters. Although I only recall a second floor at the front of the mansion. I know that because there was an elevator.
    The church bells are ringing now reminding me of the time now 11 am. My tour has been moved to 12:30. It starts at the cathedral just around the corner. I will add additional pictures to this entry so check back. And start another entry after today’s tour.
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  • La Giralda
    Its massive. And feels bigger than St PetersIncredble supportsLa Giralda. Bell tower old minaret.Column width.The glory and power of God. Right?Notre Dame would fit inside this cathedral.One of three(?) floor to ceiling organsMedieval times made you a believerWooden altar covered in gold. Took 80 years to carve 10 more than to build the church.Columbus's tombAnother view of the tombAnd another. Note the size of the humans.Virgin of Sorrows. Where sailors came to give thanks.King Ferdinan

    The Third Largest Church in the World

    March 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Well I’ve now entered and walked the largest church in the world. Incredible! It took 70 years to build constructed on the site of a mosque. No sign of the mosque as it was in poor condition so it was destroyed and the church replacing it. The construction was begun by King Fernando in the 13th century. He is San Fernando and is the city’s patron saint. And is also entombed here.
    He is so revered that in his feast day his mummified body is brought out for parishioners to pay their respects. There was no access to the knave he is at fue yo restorations.
    The columns that support this edifice are massive and have support this grand church through generations, earthquakes and upheavals. I
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  • Church Bells and Additional Photos

    March 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    I want to mention that I am so enjoying the church bells in this city ringing every hour. I know exactly the time without need my watch. There seems to be a church around every corner and in all sizes. It is still a very Catholic city and country.
    In two weeks it will be Easter and many stores are displaying the traditional dresses worn by women for the celebrations. It will bed wild with parades and celebrations all day and all night.
    People have told me it’s crazy and to get out of town. Others have said it is worth seeing to believe it. I have to return. During Easter week devout Catholics will refrain from eating meat. Typically a practice on Fridays during Lent and ending after Good Friday.
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  • Me
    ButcherFishmongerOne of many market aislesButcher and kitchen staff guideThe head!Another farm stand. It had chirimoya.Apron readyHow to cut up a chicken.Paella Valenciana. No seafood. Rosemary sprigs are for good luck.The Chef. Ready to eat.SalmojeraSpinach and chickpeasGuadalquivir River. The waterway to the New World.Torre de Oro. Tower of Gold. Come hither yee riches!Plaza de España. Only a section.The right sideThe centerThe left

    Taller Andaluz de Cocina

    March 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Spanish cooking class! Yes 3 1/2 hours cooking and eating!Paella Valenciana, Salmorejo, Spinach and Chickpeas, Lemon Sorbet with Cava, and Sangria.
    As much as I love to cook this was an excellent chance to learn about Spanish food and culture. And make the meal. I walked out stuffed.
    The class was held at the Sevilla food market. It is a large market with eateries, butchers selling lots of pork, beef, chicken, rabbit, bull’s tails, etc., fish mongers, vegetable and fruit vendors, spice, olives and olive oils, and nut vendors.
    The market was built on top of the Castle San Jorge on the banks of the Guadalquivir River. The castle below now a very nice art gallery is worth a visit. When construction of the market began 300 human remains were uncovered. It turns out that this was the original site of the Spanish Inquisition. Poor souls resting below a future market place and food stall.
    We receive a great introduction to all the various vendors with explanations of the meat and produce. The one picture of the lamb head it was pointed out that it’s a delicacy that some cook and eat the whole head including the eyes but the best part is the brain. Yeah I’ll try something once but not that!
    After that we returned to the kitchens divided into two groups of about ten.
    The participants in my group were all from the US except two ladies mother and daughter Allie and Carla from London.
    The food we got to cook and enjoy was wonderful especially the Salmoreja a creamy cold soup made only with ripe tomatoes, bread and olive oil. Served with s sprinkle of jamón and hard boiled egg. Wow! It was exquisite. This will be the first thing I make once back home.
    The paella was more complicated but really not all that difficult. The saffron, pimentón (paprika) and the garlic are critical ingredients. By the way, paella is the pan. I never knew!
    I also learned that saffron comes from a flower each strand picked by hand. And there are two types Spanish consisting of red and yellow strands and Iranian red only strands. Everything else not real saffron.
    The spinach and chickpeas tapas I ordered the first night in Sevilla was also on the menu. I’m glad since I’ll make it regularly.
    It was such a good experience. And I learned how to peal, cut artichokes and remove the hairs from artichokes! My €70 paid off. After the class ended, I strolled to the saffron vendor where I purchased a few grams. Plus pimentón.
    I wanted to see the Inquisition torture chambers of the castle below but now as an art gallery it was hard to imagine the pain inflicted therein. But I got a very good tour of the current exhibition by a young lady. It was just me but before we started three women who are local women artists joined us.
    Bring my last day in this historic city I had to walk the mile and a half along the banks of the river to Plaza de España. I pictured this busy river ships coming and going. Captains barking orders, oars churning the water while sails caught the wind. Mothers and wives crying tears of joy as the men disembarks while others shedding tears hoping their loved would return. Contracts signed, taxes paid, money made, jobs for many. The river banks a flurry of activity. Spain becoming a world power enriched by gold and silver. These tiny ships with brave men traversing the Atlantic made me think of the new frontier. The moon, Mars and beyond. Hundred of years from now our rockets will appear small and treacherous like the galleons that sailed the sea in those early seafaring days. I imaging that spacecraft of the future will dwarf todays rockets and the ISS. And I wonder what riches and new technologies will they return?While touring the Alhambra it was stated that Columbus was promised 10% profit by Queen Isabella. Apparently so much gold, silver and other goods were being brought back from the Americas that 10% would be a great amount of revenue for Columbus and family. So much so that it would have made them rich beyond imagining. Thereby, it is told that they could literally buy countries around the Mediterranean. I don’t recall the final outcome but certainly they were richly rewarded.
    Anyway back to my walk to Plaza de España which I had to see before my departure.
    It is massive. A symmetrical building constructed for the unsuccessful Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. That’s all I know about it but do know that it was used in two notable films, Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars Attack of the Clones, among others.
    Sevilla or Seville is a city I want to visit again. And if you have the chance I highly recommend it. The neighborhoods, narrow streets, the cafes, broad elegant boulevards dotted with palm trees, fragrant orange trees, large ornate fountains, some in the middle of large roundabouts, statues to heros, the markets such a wonderful city. Welcoming and safe. The people and food memorable. The weather great! Except the hot summer months.
    Tomorrow back to sleepy Marbella for my final week in Spain.
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  • El Comercio
    Store selling gifts for menLos avsnicos. to cool oneself but signaled a woman's intentions in the old days.Dresses ready for the Easter Feast days

    Sevilla Early Morning

    March 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Up early. Out for cafe con leche and churros at El Comercio. Didn’t anticipate how many churros are served but the coffee was strong nourishing neurons with the needed jolt.
    Paid and set off for the Cathedral and Alcazar. A few tourists wandering about but most were Sevillanos headed to their jobs or walking their children to school. Food truck delivery drivers unloading their orders.
    City workers everywhere erecting barricades for the upcoming Easter holiday. Crowd control for the holy cra cra week of festivities. Even in the now empty Cathedral Plaza one can feel the urgency of the preparations. God must smile upon this city.
    Backpack hung on my shoulders a leisurely walk to San Justa train station. There I sit counting how many people walk their mobile devices in hand peering down at the glowing interface. Or tightly at their side for the hurried walkers. Without life is meaningless.
    Of course it is a necessary tool for a traveler whether experienced or a first trip to a foreign land. It serves vital services. Not getting lost, direction, entertainment, news, contact with family and friends, food source, HELP! Not meaningless just an affliction.
    An affliction I propose that hinder the art of social interactivity. We’re mobile gunslingers. Me included as I thumb type this entry. Interruptions do not result in a mortal wound just “where was I?”
    What simplicity past trips to Europe, Maggie and I dependent on paper maps, tickets, francs, liras or pesetas. What simplicity. Or was it?
    My train via Córdoba to Málaga is finally listed on the large electronic departures board. Fifty minutes to go but no track yet listed.
    I wonder if those informational displays will disappear replaced by an active feed pushed to our devices?
    I sit patiently waiting my turn. The Golden Arches in the periphery of my vision beckons me. I resist. My belly churro filled. My system fortified.
    I amuse myself. Gym shoes have become the norm no matter the clothing. Suit, dress or jeans sneakers will take one there comfortably. Still fashionistas and metrosexuals lurk.
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