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Santo Domingo de la Calzada

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    • Eagle Walkers in Spain
      11
      Day 19

      Santo Domingo de la Calzada

      September 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

      Woke up bright and early at 6am, left the albergue in the dark. Found a cute cafe/bar in town to get a muffin and coffee. The town had a festival last night and the partied until 5am, we were very lucky to find anything open this morning. We walked 12 miles, lots more vineyards, a golf course, and more statues/art for the camino. Also meet a nice gentleman on top of a hill that had drinks and fruit and some great trinkets all for donations. Mom and I stopped in town as soon as we got here and had a fabulous 🥗.Read more

    • Zonder doel maar met richting
      Day 19

      Toeristenbureau

      May 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Bij het toeristenbureau vinden we bevestiging in ons gevoel over de Jacobsweg baar Santiago de Compostela. Ongelooflijk druk en de meeste mensen zijn enorm naar binnen gekeerd. Zij geeft ons onze laatste stempel en zegt dat ze van mening is dat we er goed aan doen zo naar de kust te rijden en dat we waarschijnlijk een veel mooiere route hebben zo. Op pleintje even afscheid van Pelgrim op de Fiets Kunstwerk.Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerCamino 2024
      Day 8–9

      Day 7 Navarrete/Santo Domingo de Calzad

      May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      36.5km (212.6 from start). 46.000 steps. 7h 15min on the road, including breaks. 2400 calories and 5.8 km/h average speed.

      Hostel in Navarrete is not getting any stars from me. No dinner, no breakfast. Old hostel and small rooms. When 12 people share so little space, it is challenging.

      Anyway, my Garmin gave me 93% on sleep quality 😂 Slept from 21:38 to 06:15 - my earplugs are very effective.

      Camino’s longest stage today. 36.5km after 34km yesterday and I am actually feeling ok. Even had energy to wash my clothes and take a walk to nearest supermarket.

      Day today was in solitude. Alone and first time with earphones. Good old 80’s and endless fields of wine yards. We are in Rioja and it is beautiful. I enjoyed so much today’s stage.

      Private room in Room Concept Hostels. Will take luxury breakfast at 7:30 and will not start walking before 8am - only 23km tomorrow.      Read more

    • TravelerCal’s Camino Adventures
      1
      Day 11

      Day 11

      September 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      I’m going to briefly start backwards just incase I forget to mention that I had an absolutely gorgeous meal tonight.. the guy, and his wife, who was the cook/chef, both gave me a hug when I left.. maybe I was a bit too effusive in my thanks … but… YES!!! They gave me VEGETABLES ..😂
      Today was a good walk, well signed after my wobble day of yesterday.. nothing difficult, and lots of it looking like I’m on the road to nowhere, but, with lovely views to the side..
      Nothing major happened, but as opposed to yesterday, it was the last 5 km I met and passed lots of people..it was almost like a handicap race finish, which led to a great atmosphere in the square where everyone seemed to stop for a chat /food or drinks.
      Whilst debating whether or not it was too early to have my 2%lemon Amstel I’ve become rather fond, an Irish guy… I have actually remembered his name.. Jerry!! An Irish runner that’s represented Ireland ( about 20 odd years ago.. bit like me with GB ) and spoke when I passed him the other day, ( recognised the Manx flag ).. started chatting about TT, running, fell running ( both done a few of the same races in UK /Ireland many moons ago) he was doing the Camino to get some fitness back after falling off a ladder in March and breaking two ribs!! Think we sat there chatting like two old ladies for nearly an hour.. hopefully we’ll catch up again somewhere along the way..
      My accommodation was found relatively easily.. phew.. it’s clean, near to the route for the morning and do breakfast before I need to leave!! Who knew I’d get to start loving breakfast, liking olives, Spanish red wine and olive oil on my salad 😳…      Read more

    • TravelerCamino
      Day 12

      Day 13. Domingo de la Calzada

      May 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      A relatively short, 21.4 km trek today. Left Najera shortly after 8:00 am and arrived at Domingo de la Calzada before 1:30 pm. At this morning’s breakfast I sat with an Australian couple, Francis and Lisa, who started from Saint Jean the same day I did. Francis had blisters that got infected so, unable to walk, he’s forced to take a taxi from place to place. Like me, they have all their hotels booked so he will have to take taxis for the next six days to keep up with his wife. Francis is in his 70s, I’m guessing, but in tremendous physical shape and I sense this is really hard for him. He has worked as a university lecturer and researcher on water engineering. Lisa joined me for all of today’s walk through remote and gently undulating farmland. The farmers here plant mostly wheat and canola while daisies, dandelions, Scottish thistle, cornflowers and lots of red poppies adorn our path. One pilgrim shared with me that this journey has body, mind, and spirit segments: the first part is the physical test, the next 250 kms, starting today, is boring, challenging the mind, and the third section focuses on your spirit.
      Another dimension of this walk is the history, churches, and museums. Yesterday, in Najera, Doug Steinburg, a follower on this blog who has done 20 Caminos, suggested I go see the cloister and royal tombs, so I left at 4:00 pm to explore the town. In fact, I even snuck into a guided tour of white-haired, and balding seniors hoping to see something interesting, but after a one-half km walk, I ended at their bus. Their guide spoke Spanish , so I was unable to follow, but it would have been great to have had Doug along, or perhaps that’s fodder for another Camino. At the end of each day most of us are tired and sore. Exploring the history would be a great option if we had another full day here. I did find out from someone at one of the albergues that the royal tombs were next to where he stayed last night.
      After today’s arrival, I showered, washed my clothes in the sink, then napped for one hour. At 3:30 I connected with my Kingston friends. Every shop was closed until 5:00 due to celebrations they’re having here right now. We visited 900 year-old churches before going out for supper. There were a few places open at 6:00 so I treated myself to a meal of octopus for 15 euros. It was a bit chewy.
      We mingled with the locals until 8:00 pm. Seemed like the whole town was at the main square with a queue two people wide extending beyond a city block waiting to get in church. I’m not sure what was happening there. Lots of band music, people in costumes, with families laughing and having fun. It’s almost 9:00 now and I’m planning on going to bed soon. I woke up at 4:45 this morning.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino
      1
      2
      Day 20

      Santo Domingo to Belorado

      September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Today was a very tiring day especially for our male walking companions. Maybe it was to do with the excitement of finally finding a bar last night in Santo Domingo that would play the SA v Ireland game! After a very tasty meal at the hotel we were staying at and meeting a SA born kiwi named Anne, we all except sensible Jane headed off to watch the rugby. I think the boys felt it necessary to buy rounds of drinks so the rugby stayed on! So after an exciting game we headed home and were up at 7am to start the 22.4 km walk. Surprisingly Lee and Brian were in cheerful spirits and Lee even sang Ireland's national anthem as we headed out. Maybe the Irish Baileys was still cursing through his veins!
      Today's walk in the cool morning air was quite stunning with "fields of gold" coming to mind. The rows of sun flowers stood in rows with their sad faces waiting to be harvested. The ? wheat fields have been ploughed and the paths were dry and dusty. Hot air balloons were floating nearby so it was all quite idyllic. BUT..we had thought we would have breakfast after 7 km which was very much needed but today is Sunday and hardly anything is open. On we walked through small sleepy villages with the occasional cat or dog to greet us. When I say small , imagine Mangaweka with a Spanish facade. We did share a banana some nuts and jubes for brekky. A feast for Kings!
      We walked through the border from Naverra into Castille so no more grapes to feast on.
      The 2nd half of the walk was much plainer and a bit of walking beside the highway with no shade and it was hot! Finally 5 km before we reached Belorado we found a cafe so it was the freshly squeezed orange juice and empanadas. It tasted so good.
      The next 5 km continued to be hot and dry but you have to imagine those ancient pilgrims in their sack tunics rope sandals and bearing crosses on their backs. No hot showers and wifi for them back in the day!
      Once again we met and talked with different people on the way so the kilometers just tick over.
      Belorado is a pretty wee town and famous for ancient cave dwellings up behind the town. I think it will be an early night.      Read more

    • TravelerThe Camino
      1
      Day 13

      Mistier, farther and farther - from Sant

      June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Sunday 4th June - a day that started cool and misty and almost raining. Still beautiful. Stopped for a poor coffee and bad toast after about 7km and then a second much better coffee a few kilometres further on.
      Then the sun came out and the views were stupendous. I need to paint - or at least begin to learn to paint. Next time I’m bringing a watercolour kit!
      Having been quite cold for the first part of the morning it then became quite hot and more of a slog close to a busy road. But having started at 7 we were safely in Belorado by about 1.
      We then had to wait in a huge queue to get into the hostal but we’re thankfully given a room of 4 with two other friends - which given that the bunks are very close together and look like double beds, is lucky.
      Belorado is another hidden gem and had the added bonus of a festival in the main square. Also a choral concert in the church which I heard part of.
      The hostal is busy but good with a lovely garden with a pool. I had a swim which was fab - the pool was surprisingly quiet - maybe most pilgrims don’t bring a costume? I met Ross from Glasgow who is a fellow wild swimmer and who has promised to let me know when he finds places to swim - he has already swim in two rivers! I’m very jealous.
      Good pilgrim meal at the hostal - veggie but small portions - sure this must be good for me.
      Very very early start tomorrow as it’s going to be a long day.      Read more

    • MikkaTo the End of the World
      Day 6

      Sto. Domingo de la Calzada

      July 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      The church is dedicated to Domingo, a monk who developed most of the area. It is super lavish, which feels odd, considering the relative frugality of the hamlets around it.

      It houses a pen with a hen and cock which traced back to a story about a chicken coming alive on a plate to prove a boy’s innocence.

      I usually don’t go into churches. Their lavishness annoys me, paying 5€ (the cost of a nights sleep) to a diocese that proudly displays millions of dollars in gold and silver feels wrong. But since this one is the sister church of my home in Schondorf, Bavaria, I had to.      Read more

    • Brian SmithCamino Frances
      Day 11

      Day 8-Najera to Santo Domingo

      September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

      Today was our first slow day…. Only 13 miles:) We walked from Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzado. We are still in the La rioja region and we started with miles of grapes and then all of a sudden it went to grain fields. Inter mingled with the grain fields were sunflower fields as well.
      Apparently La Rioja is a smaller region so at the end of the walk tomorrow we will be out of the region. CJ has been gobbling the grapes for two days now so he is bummed about leaving the region
      We have entered a new bubble of people on the walk. It is kind of odd where you see people for a few days and then you find yourself in a new group of people. Some of our old acquaintances have speed up and some slowed down. When talking with people we seem to be about a day ahead of normal.
      We met several new people today and the funny story is at some point CJ and I started talking politics and it went on for about 45 minutes or so. In front of us was a man who after listening to us the whole time slowed down and joined us and said “ Boys that is the most spirited debate I have heard so far on the Camino!” We then explained that we were father / son and he said well that does explain it.
      He was from Southern Ireland and a nice guy. He and Cj continued to lament the stage of politics for the next 30 minutes or so. Then he says “Gents I must take a rest as I normally don’t walk this fast but I couldn’t stop listening to your conversation so I kept walking fast and now I need to slow down before I have a heart attack:). “
      We continued on and we were a bit in front of him and started talking about the sunflower fields and he yelled out “ are you guys going to talk about sunflowers or something important!” It was hilarious!

      So this part of the walk is rather flat or perhaps we are getting our legs in shape so the up and downs don’t seem to phase us. We are planning out the next several days and we will have another short day tomorrow followed by longer days after that.
      We arrived in Santo Domingo around 130ish, checked into our accommodations , hand washed our clothes and then set out to find some food. Afterwards we turned tourists and walked around the town including a tour of their cathedral. Every town has one here:) you will see some pics from there but try to identify the one that is a box with a skull in it. Apparently that is St Jerome’s skull. Will need to research who St Jerome is:)

      No pondering today as for some reason CJ and I had the same pace today so we were chatting the whole day. BTW we did run into the Irish man once again and let him know we solved World Peace since the last time we saw him. He got a good chuckle out of that!
      In terms of health both of us are holding up well. CJ has had a few blisters but nothing major . I got some CBD cream for the knee and that is helping quite a bit and today was mostly pain free . Thanks to Karen Thurber ( former pilgrim turned advisor:)) for that suggestion as she sent me a pic of the cream and I walked into a pharmacia and they immediately knew what it was. Both of us have some minor shin related things going on but 2 short days should help that.

      I will end with , for the record , prior to this trip I have walked 10 miles or more like maybe 5 times in my life all of which were in the month before I left for this trip. I now refer to 13 mile days as short days…. Go figure! As they say “ The Camino Provides! “

      Ps I forgot to post a video yesterday so am posting today. We went up a rather steep hill and there we and other pilgrims were treated to a nice guitar player!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Frances
      1
      Day 21

      Santo Domingo

      October 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Took the slow stroll a mere 7 km to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. This was to stop some new blisters from growing and let them dry up, to line myself up for 6 12km days into Burgos and to take a bit of extra time to see the sites in Santo Domingo.

      I was in town by ten o'clock along with two ladies from Minnesota that had been at last night's pilgrims dinner. We spent a good two hours chatting, touring the cathedral (which like Pamplona was a must see) and having a stroll around town. After deciding they liked the idea of a 7km day as well, they headed off by taxi to their next nights accommodation to catch up with their friend who wanted to walk 30km.

      Saint Domingo was a friend to pilgrims and instead of joining the monastery he set about trying to makes pilgrims lives better. He was a practical fellow and built roads and bridges. He was also apparently skilled at reincarnation and brought back to life a innocent pilgrim who was sentenced to hang. The local councillor, when told that the boy was alive, declared that he was as alive as the chickens used in his chicken soup lunch. The chickens in his soup then apparently started clucking. Since this time descendants of said chickens have been kept in the cathedral and are sometimes released at festivals!?!

      These qualities clearly made Santo Domingo very popular and his cathedral (which was originally started in 1158) very rich which in 2022 makes for an interesting cathedral and museum. Generously they can still afford to turn the lights on so you can see all of God's glory whereas many smaller church's require a donation for the lights to go on.

      The Spanish are very conscious of wasted electricity. I understood this would be the case due to the current rising cost of power (thanks Putin!) but this has clearly been a focus for quite some time. Every type of accommodation I have stayed at, every bar, cafe or public toilet has timers on the lights. Apparently Spanish people can be very quick in the loo because I only needed to turn the light on 15 times the other day. Blokes beware as swinging around in the dark trying to find a light switch could be a real disaster. Needless to say you are often surprised to find yourself in the dark with no idea where the light switch is and if you're lucky some widely waving arms will trigger a sensor but sometimes the sensor or a switch are nowhere to be found.

      Tonight I'm staying in a little bit of luxury at a Parador. More about that in tomorrow's post.      Read more

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