Summer Of Yes

This all started as "maybe I'll ride a bike for a few days"... and the magic of "Yes"
My (1st) Round The World adventure. Читать далее

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День 29
вторник, 8 августа 2023 г., 13:21
⛅ 72 °F
Высота: 1 083 фт
Сербия Ledinci 45.180683, 19.8302545°10’50” N 19°49’49” E
1
Unexpected, expect it.
8 августа 2023 г., Сербия ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F
I have never been less generally within my comfort zone than this week. Not only do I know almost zero words in Serbian, I can't even read the cyrillic writing to try to guess at things and the accent is wildly foreign to my ears.

So I've found myself generally bewildered since I boarded the bus in Split a few days ago. Yet in that time I have rented an ebike, bought a train ticket, obtained a few meals, and found my way to a cute as a button winery in the hills. I've explored a fortress and a city center, ordered gelato, purchased some probiotics, and gone for a meander in a birch and larch forest to a delightfully whimsical albeit ramshackle cafe. ( https://m.facebook.com/gorskismesko ). All of this while battling a respiratory infection that has me feeling extra tired and snotty.

How did I do it?!? You must be asking.
The kindness of strangers.

You see, people are inherently good, despite what some malicious organizations want you to believe. Almost everyone with whom I've interacted has tried to help me and the very few who didn't actively help also did not hinder me. Various times people have gone out of their way. It's a great reminder of the right way to live life.

I have many strengths but asking for help and relying on others are two areas in which I appreciate the opportunity to grow. And... I've heard that growth happens outside of our comfort zone, so I guess this is my time!

Wheeee!Читать далее
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Путешественник I might have one foot in red and one in yellow these days
08.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 30
среда, 9 августа 2023 г., 10:13
☀️ 72 °F
Высота: 285 фт
Сербия Čortanovci 45.1701, 20.01533645°10’12” N 20°0’55” E
Sock Break Danube
9 августа 2023 г., Сербия ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
The "Danube River Route", eurovelo 6, doesn't actually get near the river very much so I've detoured down a dirt/pavement track to be rewarded with a pleasant little picnic area... and the River.

Perfect place for a brief rest.

I also found some windfall plums on which to snack along one of the various "this does not reach the river" attempts. Yummy.Читать далее
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День 30
среда, 9 августа 2023 г., 11:53
⛅ 73 °F
Высота: 371 фт
Сербия Beška 45.132458, 20.08618645°7’57” N 20°5’10” E
1
Familiarity
9 августа 2023 г., Сербия ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
One of the best parts of taking the slow(er) way to get somewhere is the time it offers for reflection and contemplation.

I could have taken a 36 minute fast train instead of a 7hr bike ride, and I don't for a moment regret that I didn't take the 5-day walk solution.

"This Looks Like" is a game that my brain loves to play. Trying valiantly to assign a somewhere-else to wherever I am.

Today as I e-cycled along a narrow rural road with signs in a very foreign language, looking at fields of sunflowers so ripe that their heads have drooped to face the dirt instead of the sky, and corn, and apple orchards... All laid out in what makes sense to local custom....

I found myself playing: This looks like.....

No.
It doesn't. I've never seen fields of sunflowers this mature. While I did recently see many fields in Spain; the layout, the type, the corn, the apple orchards, the irrigation... Is all different. The dirt is a grayer brown instead of the red clay of the meseta and the colors entirely change with the August sun at 45° N latitude vs 42° in late June. I'm on a bike at ~25km/h not strolling at 5km/h. The smells of the cars' fuel (the presence of cars!), the roads, the humidity, the birdcalls... All of it. Nearly every damn thing is actually significantly different from anywhere and anywhen that I've experienced.

Which is part of what makes travel so fucking cool, no?

But despite all the evidence of dissimilarity, I find my brain trying to put this oblong peg into a round hole.

Why?

I think it's because us thinking apes have enjoyed tremendous evolutionary success by recognizing patterns. When we see an apple we see the idea of an edible fruit. It may be flatter or taller or redder or greener or larger or smaller... We don't bog down on those details. We see "apple" and know it is food, and we eat.

An unwanted side effect is that many of us have learned to grab things and arrange them in a snap-to-grid fashion. We ignore the differences, which are often the true beauty of a thing.

As I pedaled, I wondered in what other arenas I make this mistake? Where do I let prejudice slip its insidious claws into my appreciation of people, places, food, experiences?

I suspect I do it far more than I think and I'm going to pay closer attention. Seeing every single difference, every single time would drive a man mad; that isn't what I advocate.

Paying attention to what is actually present is so much richer an experience than is pretending that things *entirely* match a pattern previously learned.

But my lunch is here and I'm going to see how different it is than the almost-the-same description in Croatia.... Other than being double the portion size!Читать далее
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Путешественник How was it??
12.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 32
пятница, 11 августа 2023 г., 17:06
☀️ 79 °F
Высота: 279 фт
Сербия Velika Humka 44.809996, 20.32128844°48’36” N 20°19’17” E
So Long Serbia...
11 августа 2023 г., Сербия ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F
....I hardly knew ya.

Though I feel I did pretty well in the bit of time I had, and under the conditions.

I, along with many others, came down with some sort of respiratory infection while on The Yacht Week. I can't say that I'm surprised... Questionably healthy decisions were de rigueur for the week.

My own sinuses, then lungs plainly informed me: "We are taking a break now", so my tourism time in Beograd (Belgrade) was greatly abbreviated and I spent nearly half of it horizontal in a soviet-era block housing airbnb with soaring vista of.... Ugly.

I'm reluctant to say that the whole city is ugly - there were some really pretty statues and the standard-anywhere storefronts. Serbia as a whole is very much a meet-for-coffee kinda place and sidewalks are full of people socializing in attractive seating areas. I lived that!

There is a scenic fortress along the Sava river, and riverboat cafes/bars that, had I been healthy, I would have liked to explore.

Highlights for me: biking nearly 100KM along the Danube to get from Novi Sad to Beograd. It was a long day with a lot of coughing, but it felt good to ride a bike and was a great introduction to the joys of eBike tourism. I'm a fan. It's a good vehicle with which to explore a foreign country.

The best part of Serbia for me has been the people. Both of my airbnb hosts were kind, generous, and helpful. If you find yourself near Novi Sad, I recommend Podrum Miljević https://air.tl/6tWu87l5 . Great spot to stay.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/jkgwW1YyFFJPFYix7

The friendly bike rental guy fed me coffee and shared tips on how to get around. Waiters were patient with my butchery of their language, even though they spoke excellent English, and a tour guide carefully explained how to catch the $4 shuttle bus to the airport from downtown (an idea that other cities should copy!)

I met a fun cycling couple from Munich and shared some terrifyingly narrow car-infested roads. Having company takes things from scary to adventure, sometimes.

The food... Meh. I didn't love it. The host at the winery made wonderful meals. I did have some scrumptious baklava and also found a chinese place (Mr. Wong's) with a suspiciously Serbian-looking chef and a delicious kung-pao veggie bowl. Perfect spicy vitamin-packed meal to help me fight this sinus thing.Читать далее
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День 32
пятница, 11 августа 2023 г., 19:23
☀️ 75 °F
Высота: Уровень моря
Турция Balıkçı Adası 40.828219, 29.11889240°49’42” N 29°7’8” E
Istanbul is Huge!
11 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
I guess I knew this.... But seeing it from the air is always more impressive.

I'm glad I flew in.

I am excited to be here.
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ПутешественникYahoo
11.08.2023Ответить
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День 33
суббота, 12 августа 2023 г., 10:11
☀️ 79 °F
Высота: 49 фт
Турция Balıkhane 41.039208, 28.94212841°2’21” N 28°56’32” E
1
Taking A Knee
12 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F
I pride myself on perseverance... I don't give up. I'm tough. I can do this. I don't quit. I can take it.

So it was a bit challenging for me to admit, "Hey. I'm wrecked. I need rest."

I had planned an exciting hardcore traveler journey through Eastern Serbia and Bulgaria- trains and hostels and obscure destinations with esoteric goals like visiting Europe's oldest continuously inhabited city (Plovdiv, in case you're curious).... But Thursday, sitting in a run-down Soviet-era block apartment in Belgrade, coughing up green and blowing what felt like gallons of the same from my sinuses (I'll spare us photography) I had to admit: I *can* do this, but I'm being stubborn to my detriment. If I board a 13-hour train tomorrow, I'm going to hate it.

I can afford to make myself comfortable, to allow myself to heal. I can be weak. Nobody is going to even know unless I broadcast it publicly in a blog or something (why would I do that?!?)

And so I found a 90 minute flight and a fancy room online.... And 36 hours after making the decision (more or less) I'm sitting on a divan in an impeccably clean room with a luxurious king-size bed. I just ate my fill of a fantastic buffet breakfast after sleeping-in because the blackout curtains and noise-proofing created an impenetrable cocoon all night and I slept like the dead. I've had a hot hot shower with boutique bath products and dried myself with as many big fluffy towels as I want.

Big plans for the day include naps, and a steam room visit and/or jacuzzi. I may even walk around the block to see where I am.

I still feel.... Guilty? For taking the "easy way out" but I think I can unlearn that. Maybe I can carry that lesson forward in other areas of my life, too. I've wasted a lot of energy trying to make untenable positions work. Maybe it's time to apply lessons from work to my life: figure out the high percentage/high profit opportunities and leave the rest aside. Oddly, that's second nature to me professionally and almost offensive to my sense of adventure and/or interpersonal relationships. I wonder why?

It'll be a good thing to think about in the turkish bath, later.Читать далее
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ПутешественникSo deserved! And nobody will ever know!!
12.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникHow would they know?
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Путешественник So fancy!
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День 33
суббота, 12 августа 2023 г., 12:37
🌬 82 °F
Высота: 62 фт
Турция Saint Mary of the Mongols 41.030161, 28.94988641°1’49” N 28°56’60” E
I'm only *mostly* dead
12 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌬 82 °F
Yeah, actually not that bad at all.
But this is day... 8? 9? Of less-than-good health so I tried to spend it resting.

Deferred Gratification.
As someone bopping around Europe while other people do Very Important Things, I am clearly ok with enjoying the now. Sometimes.

Today, however, has been about trying to rest and recover from being ill so that I can enjoy my travel more... Later. The deferred part. Sigh.

It has been a challenge. The weather is perfect. Istanbul is fascinating. I hate eating exorbitantly priced room-service ($45 for a salad with salmon?!?). So I did enjoy a few minutes out in the streets to find food and I'm looking forward to more!Читать далее
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День 34
воскресенье, 13 августа 2023 г., 12:29
🌬 81 °F
Высота: 161 фт
Турция Obelisk of Theodosius 41.006189, 28.97540341°0’22” N 28°58’31” E
Taking a Break from Rest (pt 1)
13 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌬 81 °F
I had the best of intentions, but in my defense: I was left unsupervised.

Sunday I started off slow and with the idea I would do a quick tour of some mosques. That's almost like rest.

I even took a cab vs walking. That may have been influenced by rain, truth be told.

After walking around a little, admiring egyptian artifacts stolen in the 5th century, I found myself wow'ed in the courtyard of the spectacular Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque) but unable to enter because it was in-use for a congregation. It was about then that I also realized I had made an error in wearing shorts... But I decided to try anyway as the men-wear-pants rule was variably enforced. I do want to be respectful, even if the rule is silly. Venice was similar nonsense. I just can't get my head around how religious cults can get so worked up over knees and shoulders being exposed. But then again: it's their house , I'll respect their rules.

So with time to kill I strolled across the plaza to the Hagia Sophia, ran into the same timing problem, and decided to just... Wait.

The wait itself was a good chance to rest and to people gawk. A long queue is a great place to see cultural differences on food, attire, group dynamics, and the concept of waiting in line. Also a chance to watch the various stray dogs who live in the area. Cute mongrels who seem to be at ease among the throngs. The sounds of the amplified prayer echoing through the square, and repeated from other mosques, lend a sense of exotic adventure to the whole affair (see video).

Once inside the Hagia Sophia - an enormous building that has been a Church, a mosque, a museum, and now a mosque again - I was impressed by the grandeur and the mosaics. Beautiful. I'm glad to have seen it.

On the way out, I stopped off at the fountain of ablution to double-down on my Camino sin forgiveness. One can't be too blessed/forgiven, after all.

As an aside, I admire the inclusion of basic hygiene into rituals. It's a good idea. The fountain is beautiful, too, and I am a big fan of making drinking water available to people.

Back to the Blue Mosque I went and ... Wow!

I've been touring houses of worship for months. I've seen amazing places. This one currently tops my list for best overall "I like it here" impact. It is beautiful, light, airy, full of color and patterns. The marble columns are massive and appear to be from a single block in the horizontal dimension. Everything about the aesthetic left me feeling happily impressed. 10⭐ strongly recommend.Читать далее
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День 34
воскресенье, 13 августа 2023 г., 19:45
🌬 77 °F
Высота: 10 фт
Турция Emin Sinan Mahallesi 41.001664, 28.97082841°0’6” N 28°58’15” E
Sitting By The Sea
13 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌬 77 °F
In addition to all the historic and cultural wow, Istanbul is on the Sea. So I walked down to take a look and was happy to watch people being.... People. They were grilling some food, playing some music, fishing, and just sitting.

I'm reminded that while I'm drawn to the differences that make a place "interesting", there are also many similarities in the way humans want to live.

We all (or most of us, anyway) like pretty places, spending time with our family/community, relaxing on a Sunday afternoon, and enjoying some time outdoors.Читать далее
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День 34
воскресенье, 13 августа 2023 г., 20:12
🌬 77 °F
Высота: 43 фт
Турция Kumkapı 41.003119, 28.96422841°0’11” N 28°57’51” E
Istanbul (pt 2)
13 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌬 77 °F
It's a few days later, so I guess I've stopped with the 'rest'. It was a struggle. I'm going to have to do it sooner or later as I'm still less than 100% but also, Istanbul.

Where did I leave off? I think it was The Blue Mosque.

After that I had a great interaction with a watch shopkeeper. It included fixing my watchband, exchanging marital advice, and getting a restaurant recommendation that proved both delicious and fortuitous, albeit windy and a little rainy on the rooftop.

The good fortune was meeting four Spaniards from Mallorca. We struck up a convo, exchanged travel tales and they convinced me to join them for a beer. Very little arm twisting was involved. They recommended a hammam (bath) that they had found, and suggested that I should meet them in Cappodocia (about a 90min flight).

Eventually we parted ways (another round happened) and the day proceeded with admiring views, strolling past the seafront, enjoying street music and shopfronts, and getting a Turkish Bath. The bath was interesting. I'd like to try another, because it's a neat experience, but I need to let my skin regrow first. The place I went was a workaday/blue collar setting. Not fancy, but lots of worn marble (slippery) and antique fixtures. In essence it was a gruff old man pushing and grunting at me to do what surely any local guy has known for years. The process was basically: costume change into a towel. Then rinse off under my own supervision. I was put in a steamy sauna for a while, then pulled out, rinsed down, and scrubbed aggressively with a rough glove. More rinsing ensued before I got a rough 'massage' with about a 3" layer of soap bubbles. It was... Invigorating, more than relaxing. He then dragged me (literally) to another spot to rinse off again and that was pretty much it. About 30ish minutes.
I've never been cleaner.

The experience wrapped up with me, wrapped up in towels, chillin on a chair to relax and sip water.

It was a bargain-priced version and I suspect that higher-end venues are both more beautiful and probably a bit less... Aggressive.

No matter; Adventure!

I finished the night enjoying a drink with my new friends after accidentally bumping into them on my way home. Great fun, and I committed to Cappodocia on Tuesday.Читать далее
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ПутешественникWhat a shock…when photo first appeared I thought it was Marty!
15.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 36
вторник, 15 августа 2023 г., 18:01
☁️ 81 °F
Высота: 404 фт
Турция Istanbul Airport 41.258203, 28.74878941°15’30” N 28°44’56” E
Istanbul Airport
15 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F
Points in favor: amazingly comfy lounge chairs w/charging. Very nice. Comfy temperature. Clean. Not too loud (by airport standards). Security was quick, efficient, and pleasant (no yelling).

Points against: it is 35 km from anywhere.
That's only a 600 TL (about $25 USD) taxi fare but it takes a long time and the public transit options are complicated and take more like 90 minutes.

Major fail: water. You gotta pay for water.
Any airport that doesn't give away free drinking water is run by incompetent assholes, Period. The amount of plastic waste generated is unacceptable, and water is a basic right that the security prevents us from providing ourselves.

Harrumph.

Edit: they board from the back! YayЧитать далее
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День 36
вторник, 15 августа 2023 г., 21:00
🌙 90 °F
Высота: 3 107 фт
Турция Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport 38.771497, 34.52420538°46’17” N 34°31’27” E
Nevsehir Airport
15 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌙 90 °F
Small. Easy.
Bathrooms ain't pretty.

But I really like that ground transit prices are listed on a big sign. That's always a challenge in a new place: what should a ride cost? Well... about $5 (130 TL)

Love it!

I feel wrecked. Too much walkie today, not enough resty or hydration. Bad Steve. I can do better.

It's a dry 90° at 9pm. I'm legitimately in the Middle East, I reckon. How fun!Читать далее
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День 37
среда, 16 августа 2023 г., 12:43
☀️ 97 °F
Высота: 3 878 фт
Турция Selime 38.301733, 34.25948638°18’6” N 34°15’34” E
Caves n Things
16 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 97 °F
With temps in the high 90s, it's easy to understand how people found refuge in the caves, here.

We just walked through an amazing series of tunnels and caves, saw the largest Cathedral in Cappodocia, and marvelled at the beauty of it all.

I could explore this place for days, but our organized tour is whisking us away to the next stop. Stops so far have included a trinket shop, a jewelry store, and a UNESCO world heritage site. I'd say about 1/3 of them have been worth paying to see. ;)

I guess I'll have to come back someday.Читать далее
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ПутешественникThat’s so cool!
16.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 38
четверг, 17 августа 2023 г., 04:52
🌙 66 °F
Высота: 3 596 фт
Турция Churches of Göreme 38.645836, 34.82974238°38’45” N 34°49’47” E
3
99 not Red Balloons
17 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌙 66 °F
Woke at about 4AM to catch a a balloon ride today.

Wow!

It was amazing.
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Путешественник This looks fake.
20.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникI felt the same way
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ПутешественникSo cool!
21.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 39
пятница, 18 августа 2023 г., 08:21
☀️ 75 °F
Высота: 3 615 фт
Турция Churches of Göreme 38.64365, 34.82719238°38’37” N 34°49’38” E
Alive
18 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
Travel is notable state of living.

On the one hand it feels more vibrant and alive than my domestic life. I am experiencing so much and learning and seeing...
I am in a constant state of being alert and the novelty forces a being-present that I love.

On the other hand, it's inherently temporary. While all things are, ultimately, impermanent travel brings that ephemeral nature to the fore. On the road I fall in love with places and then move along. I meet wonderful people and sometimes stay in touch, sometimes I barely know their name.

I carry a deeply ingrained belief in the importance of building. I save for the future. I climb. I have goals and plans and dreams.

All of those I leave behind when I am on a journey like this and while the freedom and chaos and adventure feed my soul... there are moments when I take a step back and see that I haven't yet discovered how to balance those two aspects of my personality: the deep urge to adventure and explore; the need to build a nest and have stability.

Can they co-exist? I haven't experienced that yet.

What about community? Relationships?
The internet allowed me a nice phone call with my mother last night and I am in daily contact with friends via various chats. Despite that, the last few days remind me that I am very alone out here in the beautiful semi-arid landscape of Central Türkiye. I spent the day sweating through what I hope is the end of a gastro-intestinal infection yesterday and at one point thought.... if something happens, does anyone know where I am enough to find me?

That's morbid and exaggeratedly dramatic... I'm not nearly *that* sick! But the point I want to make is that solo travel through remote regions can be difficult, mentally. I choose to believe that it builds character. Days like yesterday and today, it can just feel difficult.

I am grateful, very much, that most of the time I enjoy excellent health and I am reminded of how important that is.

So while today feels like my physical health is improving, I can feel that my mental health has taken a beating too. I'm having doubts about the longevity of the journey. I'm feeling urges to get back to the aforementioned "building a life".... Which is a stupid phrase in that all of us, every day, build our lives through every choice we make.

I don't have many choices to make today. I have 12 hours to fill before I take a night bus to the coast. I need to feel the sea; to rest. I need to stop moving around quite as much... maybe that means picking a place for a week or two... Or a month? vs. ending this journey. There is still So. Much. To. See.

As I write this, I am treated to experiencing three travelers show up to where I'm breakfasting. One of them is enthusiasm writ large. He exclaims about the fantastic view and the thrill of how exotic it is. He is right. This is amazing. We are fortunate to be here and I am glad for the reminder. This is why I won't wrap up the journey just yet: there is still so much to see and I have nearly half the globe to traverse before I bump into California again. I am far more likely to regret stopping than I am to regret continuing.Читать далее
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ПутешественникYour thoughts about the two aspects in your own personality resonated so much with me and reminded me of my own thoughts and feelings of many years. Of having lived in other counties and assimilate into other cultures. Of letting life happen and stay curious and grateful of the encountering, discoveries and learnings this brings. Yet having to deal with the other aspect, if not in that very moment but popping up for sure at some stage. All the best for you and your journey 🙋🏼‍♀️
18.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникThank you! I think living abroad is one way to do both, for a while.... Until abroad starts to feel like home, anyway. I like your comment about staying curious and grateful... If we take that mindset forward after the travel pauses (may it never stop!) Then it's another great way to get some of both aspects integrated.
18.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 39
пятница, 18 августа 2023 г., 10:54
☀️ 86 °F
Высота: 3 593 фт
Турция Churches of Göreme 38.644181, 34.83436938°38’39” N 34°50’4” E
1
Farewell Cappodocia
18 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F
Despite a lot of discomfort, I enjoyed my stay in Cappodocia very much. It's a splendid place.

On my way out the hotelier sorta apologized that it was the hottest three days of the year so far. Can confirm: it was hot.

I was fortunate today to have access to a pool. The 4 spaniards who I met in Istanbul, and with whom I went ballooning, invited me to join them for the afternoon at their hostel. Sitting by a pool in 98° (37°) was delightful. I love splishes.

We also did a little meander earlier in the day, saw some more caves, drank a coconut, sat under misty shade.

I'm presently trying hard to find positive comments vs negative, because I am on an overnight bus that is 28° (82°) and I can't sleep... I'm uncomfortable and sleepy... Not feeling very positive at all.

But the visit was good, that's positive.Читать далее
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Путешественник 😂 so casual
20.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 39
пятница, 18 августа 2023 г., 11:13
☀️ 86 °F
Высота: 3 583 фт
Турция Churches of Göreme 38.642175, 34.84281438°38’32” N 34°50’34” E
Best Cure
18 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F
For GI issues, nothing beats a coco.

Scritches are a close second as a panacea.
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День 39
пятница, 18 августа 2023 г., 18:54
☀️ 93 °F
Высота: 2 992 фт
Турция Avanos 38.713619, 34.84355838°42’49” N 34°50’37” E
Quick Side Quest
18 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F
On a whim and the advice of friends, I decided to fill some time with a quick jaunt to a nearby town called Avanos.

I'm so glad I did!

This place is beautiful, modern, alive in the present and surely a much better example of real Turkey than is the hyper-touristy town of Göreme.

I enjoyed strolling through a supermarket, soaking my toes in the river (that has a beautiful promenade along each bank), catching a sunset view, and seeing people dressed up for Friday Night.

All in all, a wonderful way to spend a couple of hours. I wish I felt confident in my belly's ability to eat a good meal. It looks like the food here is tasty and the menu prices are much more reasonable than in Göreme.

Update!

I'm on the wrong bus!
This is not great news, but not a disaster. I think I know where we are going and am confident I can grab a taxi from there to where I need to be. This'll teach me to pay closer attention while awaiting public transit... in my defense, I didnask the guy waiting next to me if this is the way to Göreme and he said yes. Then when the bus arrives the driver barely atopped and started driving while I was boarding, so I didn't have lot of time to ask questions!

Update 2!

I disembarked the wrong bus in a place that looked busy. Ended up charring with Cesar, from Paris about life and travel and plans and disillusion... He is facing some tough decisions and I did my best to lead him towards ways to find the answers instead of telling what I think he should do. Nice guy.

I also chatted with a local who confirmed that we had the correct stop. Phew!

A bit later, another local told me that while we had the right stop, we had missed the last bus. Not great.

But! Ills (spelling?) then told me he needed to go to Göreme as well. We split a cab (crazy diver!) and got back to town without further issues. Phew!

Cesar caught his bus too.Читать далее
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ПутешественникHaha. What a journey
20.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 40
суббота, 19 августа 2023 г., 04:29
🌙 68 °F
Высота: 3 665 фт
Турция Kara Bulak 37.452289, 31.86299237°27’8” N 31°51’47” E
2
Ride a *What*?!?!
19 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌙 68 °F
Kâmel Koç

The very uncomfy bus is called.. Kâmel Koç
Is this a joke? Because ...

Sigh. A good laugh helps.
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Путешественник😂😂😂😂
20.08.2023Ответить
hahaha!!!! I'm dying laughing over here. Cry laughing [Emma]
26.09.2023ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникRight? It was not a good ride. 2 stars. Do not recommend.
28.09.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 40
суббота, 19 августа 2023 г., 22:18
🌙 84 °F
Высота: 115 фт
Турция Karaalioğlu Parkı 36.880862, 30.70579836°52’51” N 30°42’21” E
Day 1 Antalya
19 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ 🌙 84 °F
Antalya

I can't quite put my finger on what I like about this town, but I do like it.

With 2.5M people, town is a misnomer.

Irritatingly, I'm struggling with a gut bug and can't really enjoy the delicious food.

I was sitting there at the cute and very hippy hostel into which I got a serendipitous early check-in (much needed after the overnight bus ride debacle)...

...writing in my journal and sipping coffee.

I was thinking about the time I'd just spent w/ my pals from Spain and I wrote: "I think the reality of being alone is starting to become heavy. I want to share common experiences more often"...

And a guy sits up from his hammock and starts talking to me.

Sometimes things just work out.

@dorian.krafft and I spent the next few hours sharing anecdotes and then a brunch. It was brief but just what I needed in the moment.

I went on to manifest finding a free discarded padlock, later. I'm on a roll! As an aside, it took me less than 10 minutes to "crack" the 3 digit combo. Those locks aren't great.

I took a snorkel by the harbor- not much to see but it felt great to get wet and salty and rinse off the malaise of illness and bus ride.

Also, dogs. So many dogs. They're generally friendly and affectionate which is good as they're also generally very large!Читать далее
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День 41
воскресенье, 20 августа 2023 г., 09:50
☀️ 84 °F
Высота: 36 фт
Турция Düden Çayı 36.851197, 30.78315636°51’4” N 30°46’59” E
Seaside Waterfall
20 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F
The Düden River courses down from the mountains and passes through Antolya to hurl itself off of a seaside cliff into the Mediterranean Sea, gloriously beautiful.

I really enjoyed standing on the land upwind of the spray and watching the interplay of sunlight, salt water, freshwater, and air.

If I add some fire and we would have all of the elements present.

I got a coffee. That's like fire, right?

This place is truly a wonder. It pains me that they've dubbed the vista point "Düden Wonderland" but then, here I am with a busload of people lazily being shown this majestic phenomenon. I shouldn't throw stones.

Instead I'll enjoy it. There's cool water and slight breeze to mitigate the impact of a day in the mid-80s (high 20s C) with humidity over 90%. The mist roiling up from the sea is like a gargantuan swamp cooler.

I am sure that I won't regret taking an option that includes AC, today.

Besides, I tell myself, I am still recovering from a challenging bout of accelerated intestinal transit. It's good to give myself the more gentle tour today, even if it offends my inner "I am a traveller not a tourist" sense of self. Self, we are a tourist today. Sorry.

The coffee is delicious.Читать далее
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День 42
понедельник, 21 августа 2023 г., 08:07
☀️ 81 °F
Высота: 75 фт
Турция Karaalioğlu Parkı 36.879992, 30.70492236°52’48” N 30°42’18” E
Last Morning in Türkiye
21 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
I was up 'early' at 6:30 AM and decided to journal vs. re-sleep - only to discover that I killed a pen!! This always pleases me because it seems rare.

Only now I lack a pen with which to journal. Hmm. Surely I can find that, here, in a city of 2.5 million souls.

I hit the rooftop to get bendy instead and it feels so good to yoga in hot humid morning with the sun a pale disc in the heavy air, so dense not even light seems able to move quickly. As I heal from recent maladies and challenges I am excited to feel my physical strength return. I found myself pushing much harder than I had planned, flowing through a harder practice than I've done in weeks. Sanity through perspiration.

"Don't come here in August" said my tour guide Zuzu yesterday. She is right. It isn't that the heat is unbearable, it is that views are obscured, the inevitable smells of city life are more fetid, the flies are overjoyed by these conditions, and all people have a narrower band of patience by virtue of everything being harder to enjoy. It just isn't as nice.

I'm still quite glad I came.

After some sweaty yoga I towelled off and went to find coffee. Finally found my first chocolate croissant in Turkey! The coffee was good. The croissant, good enough. As I started eating, a pretty blond coyly approached the table to see if I wanted company. She realized quickly that I wasn't interested and moved a table away to lick her feet on her own terms.

I can hear the city waking up - It isn't a morning place despite the delightfully cooler temps compared to later. I think I'll miss the minarets and the calls to prayer. I am certainly enjoying them while here. I won't miss the sea as I am headed towards more of it, but I know that I've missed out on exploring a great deal of amazing coastline.Читать далее
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ПутешественникAgain, your travel report is taking me aback to my time in Egypt. The honking on the streets, the chattering of the people, the noise everywhere in the cities and bazars, and as you say the calls from the minaret towers for prayer. I would never tolerate such decibel levels where I live in Germany, but I just looooved it over there. I guess it has to do with assimilation and the soul somehow being familiar with it.
22.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
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День 42
понедельник, 21 августа 2023 г., 10:18
☀️ 86 °F
Высота: 151 фт
Турция Cumhuriyet Meydanı 36.887431, 30.70796736°53’15” N 30°42’29” E
Turkish Haircut
21 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F
I had a little time to fill so I decided to clean up a little. I'd skipped shaving long enough that using a disposable razor was simply not feasible... So I figured I would pop into a barber for a quick shave and haircut.

The barber spoke only slightly more English than I do Turkish, which is to say that after overlap we had about 7 words total between us and he had a razor. What could go wrong?

We started off with steaming water and fragrant soap, applied more than liberally with a nice brush. Then applied a second time, until I had a solid inch of foam all over the lower half of my face. He was thorough. Then he carefully straight-razored away the 2 weeks of beard I've been sporting. Reapplying soap with frequency.

Soap, it seems, is key to the process. Which is fine because it feels good to have my fave lathered.

Once he got through with the shave he hot waxed my cheekbones and ears. After a few moments of talking his cellphone, he came back and added some globs of wax to my nostrils and nose, too. This was a first for me.

As the wax cooled, I was served some apple tea. A nice touch, but hard to enjoy with my sniffer stuffed with wax - an experience I was about to discover gets significantly less pleasant with the undoing. Ouch!

He followed up with a quick rubdown with some sorta toner, and then applied a nice layer of mud mask.

With my face fully defuzzed and painted dark gray with mud, he got to work on my hair and without much communication I feel like we did a good job. I saw later that he missed one little spot but I think I can fix that myself if I can find some scissors.

The cut was pretty standard except that he used the straight razor as a final step, with the comb. Not sure what that does but... Ok.

As the cut ended and the mask dried, he had me lean frontward into the sink and washed both my face and hair very thoroughly, with a lot of soap. A LOT of soap. It gets a little tricky to breath while facing down with a constant spray of soapy water cascading downward over one's nose and mouth. But I *love* having my hair washed and enjoyed every moment of it.

I thought I was nearly done but... Not even close. We took a tea break, then the assistant went to work on my shoulders with an electric massage machine and the barber proceeded to tone, oil, wipe, tone and... Something else my face. I lost count of the steps and products but it smelled great and each application was like a mini facial massage, while the 14yr old assistant went to work on my legs.

Once my face and hair were done, both the barber and the boy went to work in earnest. My limbs were stretched and twisted, my neck cracked, my chest stretch and my spine adjusted. I was bent forward again so that they could get to my back and it turned out to be a pretty good massage. Unexpected and a tremendous experience.

There were tea breaks now and then, but I barely remember when.

What I thought was a "quick" visit to the barber turned out to be nearly 90 minutes. I emerged refreshed and relaxed and about $20 lighter. I wish my hair grew even faster- I'd do this every week!Читать далее
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ПутешественникThat sounds amazing!
21.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникNo wonder you are apparently in no rush to return here….,every thing around the US seems to be hurry hurry and then, why did I bother to hurry for nothing!
21.08.2023ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникApparently? I look forward to returning. But California will be there when I get back. No hurry at all
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День 42
понедельник, 21 августа 2023 г., 12:40
☀️ 90 °F
Высота: 131 фт
Турция Meydan Kavağı 36.886992, 30.73129436°53’13” N 30°43’53” E
Tram Fiasco
21 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F
Today just keeps being story worthy.

I'd love it if there were nothing else on which to comment, for a while.

I'd asked a few people and all agreed: the tram to the airport is easy.
It is not easy.

So far I've caught several trams and it took me 3 times to realize that the problem was that there is some problem with the tracks, and the tram was disgorging passengers to connect via bus to another tram to get toward the airport. Fortunately, some tram security guys were really helpful in explaining to me what was going on.... And serendipitously my 1st flight is delayed. So I'm calm as a cucumber but a little overcooked by the weather and the confusion.

I think it'll be fine.

Note to self: just because the map shows a tram going to where you want to go, it's ok to ask a few people if you're going the right way. Might save hassles.

On the plus side, the trams are modern, quite, comfy, and air conditioned. Cuz it's too hot to be in a City with a lot of people.

Well. That was easy compared to this.
My Turkish Air flight that was "slightly" delayed turned out to be very delayed. Which meant I was the guy running through the airport w a backpack and begging people to let me jump the queue in passport control and security.

It warms my heart how almost everyone was generous enough to let me pass. Just wonderful !

Alas
I missed my flight by 3 minutes. Frustrating.

Fixing the problem took a few hours, most of which I spent trying to find the Pegasus ticket counter in the airport. Confusion reigned like an addled yet not benevolent dictator.

And took some money.
But problems that can be fixed by money that we have aren't problems; they're expenses.

Flying to Greece tomorrow (22nd)
And hoping that all flights work smoothly!Читать далее
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Путешественник😩
22.08.2023Ответить
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День 43
вторник, 22 августа 2023 г., 07:00
☀️ 73 °F
Высота: 318 фт
Турция Sabiha Gökçen International Airport 40.905767, 29.31317840°54’21” N 29°18’47” E
Not Today, Satan
22 августа 2023 г., Турция ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
Universe: "Let's Test You"

Me: "I got this"

Always carry a wet wipe when travelling.
I gather them at reataurants/on planes when I see them and try to keep one or two in-stock.

Better still, always check TP before you sit down.

In other news, not unrelated...
The SAW airport concessions are insane. I just paid 13€ for a (not terrible) croissant and cup of coffee. That's expensive in expensive places, and outright robbery here. Yesterday in Antalya I got a beautiful salad for lunch at a fraction of that price.

But it used up my Lira, which would otherwise have been in a bowl at home for the foreseeable future. So not really any loss at all.

Still.... What a rip-off for an airport that doesn't reliably stock TP.Читать далее
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