Summer Of Yes

juli - december 2023
This all started as "maybe I'll ride a bike for a few days"... and the magic of "Yes"
My (1st) Round The World adventure.
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  • 225Footprints
  • 19landen
  • 164dagen
  • 1,3kfoto’s
  • 133video’s
  • 38,5kmijl
  • 21,6kmijl
  • 724nautische mijlen
  • 444mijl
  • 284mijl
  • 173nautische mijlen
  • 140nautische mijlen
  • 140nautische mijlen
  • 98mijl
  • 12mijl
  • 4mijl
  • Dag 10

    Et Voila

    20 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    I am in France, on the correct local train, on my way to where I want to be.

    I have been in the country for about five minutes and the three people with whom I have spoken have failed utterly to conform to the stereotype that the French are intolerant of Americans.

    Well, except for the ticket machine. It was downright ornery. It allowed me to select English and proceeded to give every prompt in French. Merde!

    Amusingly, my phone coverage has yet to catch up with the international evolution of my journey.... Which makes it <très impossible> to pay with my phone.... And my credit card was deep in my pack. More excitement! Fortunately for me, I have more than 50 days practice with unpacking/packing : <aucun problème>

    The train is rolling now... I had 7 minutes to spare and will go ahead and add a mental ✅ to the win column.

    I really like that my international border crossing consisted of leaving a Spanish metro station in Hendaia, walking 50 meters, entering a French train station in Hendaye. Delightful. The two pics are taken in the same place, incidentally.
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  • Dag 10

    Love my AirBNb

    20 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Renting a room is always a gamble.

    I hit the jackpot.

    Love it!

  • Dag 11

    Ah, Biarritz

    21 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Someone once told me that his favorite place in Europe is Biarritz so I was predisposed to like this seaside town with several beaches, surf, great food, diving, great food, narrow streets, great food, basque charm, great food and beautiful people on parade. Oh, the weather was pefectly delightful as well.

    While I was only there two brief nights I had the best chocolate sorbet I have tried (and I try them all. Pamplona was a close 2nd, fwiw), fresh delicious seafood, a delightful morning yoga session/swim, a beautiful sunny afternoon swim and stroll watching wavelets and happy people on the beach, and an evening swim workout.... All on separate beaches within a short stroll from the best AirBnb experience I've had.

    I reviewed an incredible seafood market, fell in love a thousand times (ok, maybe lust?), vicariously geared up for scuba, window shopped boutiques, appreciated art, savored a cold beverage or two, and watched some Brazilian fellow jump over a flag. Incredibly patient people tolerated my butchery of their language; among the most notable were A) my airbnb's dog who cared not one lick for how I mispronounced commands: he accepted scritches in 3 languages; and B) the very happily drunk young man at the bus stop at 7:30 AM who was delighted to muddle through a combination of French, Spanish, English to learn a little about where I am from, where I am going, and to heartily recommend that I visit Ustaritz. He is from there and I suspect he is biased... But certainly enthusiastic.

    It helped a great deal that good friends who I have known for nearly 20 years in Costa Rica live part-time in Biarritz and kept me company for the day. Many thanks to you, Jean Marc and Rhonda. I look forward to the next time that our paths cross.
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  • Dag 12

    Return To Go, Where's my $200?

    22 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Fate and Flixbus bring me here today.... Gare de Bayonne.

    Right back where I was my first day in France, and my first day on The Camino. (https://findpenguins.com/1ooyf9lg96j6p/footprin… )

    It feels.... Poignant. I'm surprised at how familiar it is after nearly two months of seeing and being in new places. I've slept in close to 50 beds (lost count), visited at least 100 cafes (lost count) sought innumerable yellow arrows (never even tried to count), smiled 10,000+ times, and seen more people, places, and things than one could shake a stick at (I had 2 sticks, *that* I can count).

    I've been to three countries, uncountable towns and villages, and taken over a million steps (literally). I've lightened my load and added new things to it. I've (surprisingly) lost nothing, and gained.... Everything.

    I suppose that the emotion is there regardless of the glimmer that triggers it... Today I found myself disembarking from a snazzy electric bus from Biarritz to see the Gare (train station) and .... The tears just sorta squoze out a little. Happy tears. Tears of recognition that.... ¡Carajo! I really did something special and I am not the same guy who walked into that station in late May. Perhaps the same guy, just a very different version.

    I don't know that I'm any smarter nor wiser, but I am certainly healthier, more open-hearted, calmer, and less .... Depressed.

    I hate to use that word as I feel like there are many other people who are suffering more acutely than I can even imagine. In light of my own emotional struggles with the loss of my brother (among some other things): if you are struggling, please seek help. Even if you don't "need" it. Talk to someone, a professional. There are resources out there. I was prone to tell people that "I have coping mechanisms, I'll be fine" which was utter bullshit. From the bottom of my hole I could barely keep my nose above water and deeply regret the time I wasted there. It took hitting my own version of bottom to convince me to make changes and the journey back to me has been so beautiful that I wish a similar path unto anyone currently in the dark. You can do it.

    And on that happier note, I'm enjoying a (believe it or not) pain au chocolat and a tasty (enormous!) cup of coffee as I get a dose of ocular sunshine ( https://youtu.be/yBjUR16AiBM ) prior to starting my bus journey across the south of France.

    It's a beautiful day. I am happy, healthy, and excited about... Adventure.

    ...much better than the $200 that monopoly promised.
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  • Dag 12

    Toulouse, brièvement

    22 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    A reminder to myself to speak up.
    (If you know me, this statement probably surprises you)

    I am now guilty of speaking timidly because I am not confident in my French. As a result, my waiter could not *hear* me.... I can't otherwise explain how "un vin blanc" was converted to "un bière blond". But I received the latter (which is not a problem but is not what I wanted).

    This phenomenon is something I have often experienced with non-native speakers of both English and Spanish in various places. Having now been on the giving side, I get it. It's hard to project when you feel.... Inept.

    Which leads me to think about one of the very good things related to travel: it can offer some opportunities for humility and empathy. The former, well, see above! I am reminded with great frequency of the myriad facts, locations, and languages of which I am wholly ignorant. The latter is related: just because I cannot express myself does not mean that I am without thoughts and desires. As a society we seem to diminish people who communicate poorly. I think after being the 'fool' I'd like to remember this feeling in future interactions with others and afford them the same gentle treatment that I have occasionally (usually) received.

    I succeeded in getting gazpacho, salmon tartar, and coffee. All in (imperfect) French. Gotta give myself credit, where due, to be fair.

    Also: here are some pictures from Toulouse.

    My favorite part of the city was seeing a bunch of fun-looking riverboats moored alongside the road on the way out of town. Seems like a nifty space in which to live.
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  • Dag 14

    Marseille in 42 hours

    24 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Parting is such sweet sorrow.

    I added Marseille to my itinerary rather last-minute as I had forgotten that I have people there.

    About 8 years ago, I lived with an awesome French roommate in SF. We have sorta stayed in touch, but not nearly enough to feel comfy inviting myself for more than a quick visit. What a mistake! Marseille merits at least a week. There's a lot to see and I barely scratched the surface.

    I did enjoy a gorgeous day sunbathing* by the sea, yummy food, a late-night (early morning) DJ fueled night out, a bike ride along the water, a sunrise swim workout, sunset drinks with a view, a lot of people watching, rooftop Rose with three beautiful women, pain au chocolat, a fantastic home-cooked dinner, and some fine meanders through the streets and alleys of Marseille. All that in about 42 hours ain't bad at all!

    The best part was spending time with Perrine and Romain, and I genuinely look forward to my next visit (and theirs to me).

    One of the troubles- I often reflect- with travel is that the more places I go and people I meet... The less content I am to stagnate in a single place. It's also tricky sometimes to stay close while far away. That may be the biggest redeeming feature of social media.

    *Which includes my 1st swim in the Mediterranean Sea!
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  • Dag 15

    Sprimutti is orange juice

    25 juli 2023, Italië ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    So far Bologna has taught me:

    Fresh OJ here is "sprimutti" which delights me.
    Pasta Bolognese is actually better in Bologna.
    Italians serve a shot of fizzy water w/coffee, and this is the way it should be.
    I looked at 2 places for chocolate croissants and .... So far that isn't Italia's strong point.
    Italian is easier for me than French, so far.

    I arrived late: RyanAir is cheap and priced appropriately. But the flight was otherwise not much notable.

    My hostel has a bullshit policy of charging an extra 10€ for check-in after 7pm. Lame. That's a 15% penalty for a pretty normal arrival of 8pm. And... If you run a lodging business, you probably shouldn't plan to work 'normal business hours.'

    But I got a shower and headed out for a meander and dinner. Bologna is/was a quick layover between plane and bus, not so much a destination for me (I'm here 12 hours overnight) but I am glad I did stop. It's fun to have some mental images of the place and I had a nice meal (albeit tourist-priced, for sure).
    I also had a delcious aperol spritz with a noodle for a straw. This is a good biodegradable solution, I prefer it vs. paper straws.

    I did find the city oddly.... Dark. The buildings just aren't illuminated like many other cities and the construction is more massive/close than some, lending a not too inviting feeling overall. I woke to overcast and the threat of rain (drops are falling now) which does little to dispell the sensation that for me, this just isn't as happy a place to visit as some ofhers have been. I guess that's normal - after a string of "I freaking love Santiago/Vigo/Oporto/Salamanca/Marseille" I was bound to be somewhere that just doesn't click as well for me. It's probably not even Bologna's fault... Just a difference of personality.
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  • Dag 15

    Switcharoo

    25 juli 2023, Italië ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Rain and new information have me making a last second change of plans.... jumping off a bus before my destination.... And finding a train.

    I love a good dollop of chaos in my travels, apparently. And thank google for real time travel info! I am now queueing for a train in Padova instead of going to Venice. I'll see friends in Vicenza today and tour Venice tomorrow- more time there and less luggage (and less rain) are good things.

    Fun, this travel stuff. If it were more plausible, this is how I would prefer to travel: grabbing trains at whim. But.... Tickets sell out and while I have a lot of time, I don't want to spend all my time in transit.
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  • Dag 15

    Vicenza Sunshine and Lightning

    25 juli 2023, Italië ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    I'm so happy that I chose to add a visit to Italy, and to Vicenza in particular.

    Francesca was the exchange student who stayed with 'my' Spanish family two years prior to my stay and she returned for a brief visit while I was there.

    So we have stayed in distant touch for the last 30 years and I've enjoyed watching her life via social media and common connections.

    When I was in Vigo, I was inevitably reminded of her by location and family ties so I reached out to see if she and her husband are available for a quick visit 'on my way' to Croatia.

    "Of course!"

    And here I am! Enjoying two nights in their lovely home just barely outside the city of Vicenza. Reconnecting after so much time has been easy and nourishing. We have been speaking Italian, Spanish, and English and sometimes all three. I love it!
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  • Dag 16

    I like Trains

    26 juli 2023, Italië ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The ticket guy was mystified.

    "One ticket to Venice" I said in something like Italian.

    "Ok"

    "What time does it depart?"

    "9:03"

    "There is one at 8:33, no?"

    "Yes. It stops at all stations."

    "Both trains arrive Venice at the same time?"

    "Si"

    "The slow train, please."

    [He looks at me over his glasses] "okaaaaay" (you crazy foreigner)

    I figure I might as well enjoy the views vs. sitting at the station. And it saved me 20€.
    And they arrive within 5 minutes of each other.
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