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Summer Of Yes
  • Steve Broyles

Summer Of Yes

This all started as "maybe I'll ride a bike for a few days"... and the magic of "Yes"
My (1st) Round The World adventure. Read more
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  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Ramena

    October 15, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Took a little trip into a nearby town as I'd heard that Sunday nights are fun there.

    It was fun. I enjoyed seeing a sunset facing West.

    The town reminds me of several places I've been in Nicaragua or Costa Rica, 20 years ago. Relatively rough around the edges - concrete and asphalt, but still rustic and bare bulbs vs. light fixtures.

    We ate on plastic tables & chairs on the sand, our food was cooked over fires (and was delicious and inexpensive).

    Music was LOUD vs good. People, mostly locals, mostly young, were having fun. Qat is pretty commonplace - an herbal stimulant that people chew. It's a funny thing to watch as they put leaf after leaf into their mouth until they have a large wad in their cheek. I'm told it is somewhere between caffeine and cocaine, in the spectrum. That sounds like a heckuva range to me.

    I called it an early (9PM) night because I didn't want to be alone in a 2wd taxi on rough dirt tracks in unknown lands very much later than 10PM. Also, waking for sunrises doesn't pair well with staying out late. Truthfully: It is also a bit exhausting to socialize in French and some English. I am learning... But a different language is always more mental effort and less return on investment: the conversations are shallower by dint of less understanding/common ground, but I am glad that I went and enjoyed seeing another place.

    On the way to the bar, we were walking on the beach and I grabbed my phone to catch a quick video. Pulling it and my money (all the money I had at the moment) from my pocket - the unnoticed money fell onto the sand and I kept walking.

    Lesson: use different pockets for phone vs. money!

    As we entered the bar and I wanted a beer, I quickly noticed (with a sinking feeling) that the proverbial cupboards were bare.

    A lot of good fortune smiled on me. I popped back out of the bar and walked a few meters to find a small pile of bills, damp in the sand. Neither waves, wind, nor human had moved them in the five, maybe ten minutes between dropping and finding them. Several people were standing nearby. If I were inclined to believe that something supernatural were looking out for me, this would feel a lot like proof!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Big fish. Yummy.My new view. Less awesome, but more jungly.Has dog. Is good.

    New Spot, Less Fancy, Still Rad

    October 16, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Sadly, I was kicked out of my posh bungalow as someone else had a reservation.

    Happily, other places exist and since the wind has picked up I've decided to enjoy another day of falling, um, foiling.

    I'm liking this weeklong stay vibe more than a night or two here and there.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Post-kite stoked

    Attacked Again

    October 17, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    I think that word has gotten out in the canine community that there are sunrise pets to be had.

    Three portly labs joined me on my stroll today.

    Delightful.

    It's interesting to me how much of a difference small choices make... I came to Sakalava knowing nothing of the area and stumbled into a great set-up at Ocean Lodge. Now I am at a good set-up at Varastrava Wind Riders. Good... But not fabulous and I wouldn't stay here for a full week as it just isn't as convenient nor comfortable.

    But today I plan to rent kite gear (not wing) and play for a bit. My winging muscles are tired and I'm feeling like the thrill of learning isn't as attractive as the thrill of knowing how to do something already.

    Taking breaks is important and I've been in a hightened state of learning mode for a while now.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Every Beginning...

    October 21, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    ...is some other beginning's end.

    -or-

    Should I Stay or Should I Go?

    I'm oddly reluctant to hit the road from this pretty little windy bay in NE Madagascar.

    I arrived without a plan and have managed to avoid making much of one in the time I have been here.

    Madagascar is enormous: 144% the size of California, about the size of metropolitan France (the part in Europe). I'm a bit overwhelmed by the extent of things I could do and by the challenges of getting around. Roads/busses aren't easy here and local planes are notoriously unreliable - I hear many fly a day or four later than scheduled.

    I've been sitting by this white sand beach, reading my kindle, practicing French, and riding the wind for a few hours/day. I'm well fed, well rested, salty, sun-kissed, and have enjoyed an hour of massage nearly every day.

    Paradise? It might be. I'm certainly having a devil of a time departing towards an unknown city full of noise and bustle.

    Yet I want to see more of this marvelous country. I try to imagine going to California and only seeing one beach.... unacceptable to me.

    The way appears as we travel the way. Time to hoist my backpack and move along?

    After breakfast. And maybe another wing session. And perhaps lunch..... Maybe a night....    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    CrystalThe dunes are held by pine-like treesCowcart ExpressNono and Maba at the barClear nightsFresh tuna. Great food, here

    Happily Still Here, and Tired

    October 22, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌬 84 °F

    Yesterday was emerald/turquoise waters and blue skies. I really thought I'd depart... But the wind picked up.

    Today is 25-30 knots and .... Emerald/turquoise waters and blue skies.... with waves.

    I just spent 2 hours getting my ego smooshed down and dunked, repeatedly. I was feeling pretty cocky after free-riding yesterday (letting the wing trail while I briefly foiled along a wave).

    So I spent about two hours doing jumpies with a kite, too. Great core workout. Ouch. And an ego boost as I kite much better than I foil.

    I finished the day by having dinner w the hotel owner and two other guests. They patiently pretended that my French is better than I think it is, which was fun. I learned, but quickly forgot, a hilarious French slang for sleeping*. Kinda like "hit the hay" but it translates roughly as "put the meat in the tea towel". I'll have to relearn it as this is just the sort of thing that makes learning a language fun.

    Today's high winds and choppy waves, with a much smaller/squirrelier wing (3.5m vs 6m), and a smaller, more 'performance' foil (1,500 vs 1,600) showed me that I have a lot of opportunity to practice and learn.

    Which is awesome! Because learning is fun, even if it means a few helpings of humble pie (washed down with ample salt water).

    I am so glad that I stayed a little longer. My body aches, my smile- muscles are worn out, and life feels good.

    * « mettre la viande dans le torchon »
    Can't wait to use this.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Banana beignets. I'll miss Ocean LodgeStow -away. (S)he was discovered and left behindI already miss thisGrocery store bulk binsJus lookin rounDiego. Call to Prayer.Produce is sadly similar everywhere

    Diego Suarez

    October 24, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌙 81 °F

    Named for some Portuguese explorers, it is officially Antsiranana, but many/most people call it Diego. At least most Francophones do and 100% of the 3 or 4 Anglophones I've met, too.

    The remarkably generous inclusion of syllables in Malagasy words is difficult for me to wrap my travel-weary brain around.

    In all fairness, I was already having trouble back in Turkey, and that was 4? 5? Countries ago. I think that my brain has a limited capacity, or perhaps rate, for absorption of novel nomenclature. Adding a few new words of French each day helps me a little on my trip (a lot, actually) but not so much for also picking up names/places. It helps very little, or perhaps a rather large negative quantity, that Malagasy French is about as French as backwoods English is English. But a smile goes a long ways and thank technology for my handy pocket translator. Google: you rock.

    So!
    I left paradise, somewhat reluctantly, to come to the hustle and bustle of Diego. It's warm, but mild for a tropical city. The buildings are looking to be about 20 years behind on maintenance schedules, for the most part. Tuktuks twaddle and honk throughout town and diesel 4x4s belch fumes (but also I covet them).

    There are numerous pale-skinned tourists here and so far I'd guesstimate that 85% are male. At least that % are speaking French. Some might be speaking another language. The only English I have heard was the very kind boy in the tourism office who speaks English juuuust a little better than I speak French. We settled on a random combination of the two, amid much laughter.

    I finally gave up on trying to navigate/plan my next ~10 days. I've agreed to an organized tour operator and am paying a little extra but hopefully she is dealing with the details better than I was able. A combination of slow internet, general reluctance on my part, wildly confusing names, and a very large country with amazingly bad roads was complicated by my waiting till the last minute and local holidays. I'll be getting whatever is available at a premium rate.... But it'll still be less than $200/day including private drivers, a couple of flights, guided hikes and tours as well as 3 star hotels.

    So now I can focus on finding some sort of plan for Reunion Island, which is my next stop and still wholly unplanned. I'd complain but... things have worked out really well so far (mostly).    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Glace of dubious non-dairy-ness. I'm relying on the vendor's statement but anticipating trouble

    Planning Woes and Faith

    October 25, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌬 88 °F

    I've mentioned it already: making plans in Madagascar has proven very difficult for me to do.

    It's related to language, sure; also to geography and insufficient research on my part. A big factor has been not wanting to miss the good stuff.... and not knowing how to prioritize which good stuff. Another factor has been how unexpectedly difficult it is to get reservations... it took me several hours to book a simple tour today. I thought it would take moments. The sheer enormity of this island, combined with atrocious roads complicates travel more than I thought it would, too.

    In the end, I've punted. I hired a tour company to arrange the rest of my stay (till Nov 3) - which is a big leap of faith that she will choose things that I'll enjoy. It's also a little more expensive this way (and probably higher-end accommodation than I need).

    The real leap?
    I found myself wiring a bunch of money to an unknown person in Madagascar.... Where my bank required specific confirmation because Mada is a known hotbed of scammers. That's not reassuring. Ultimately I opted for paypal as they offer at least a token "protection" option. It adds several percent to the cost but also some peace of mind.

    Good news: I have some plane tickets! So at least it isn't a total scam. I am keen to see how hotels and tours shake out.

    It's a shame to be travelling alone for this leg of the journey. Private cars cost half as much for two people, y'know? But I've had no success in finding people here with whom to explore and so ... here I go, a leap of faith that things will continue to work out just fine. So far... They really have.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Chutney for sale. Reused bottles!
    These ducks were excited for coconut leftoversOn the way to Tsingy RougeChallenging road conditionsHappy, hammy childrenZoom in for textureRichard and big vistas

    Tsingy Rouge

    October 25, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Wow!!!

    Alien landscape all to myself.
    I hired a guide named Richard and a driver whose name I couldn't pronounce but sounded vaguely similar to BobBob to take me to see one of the coolest geological formations I've ever enjoyed.

    The two hour bumpy 4wd ride on National Highway RN2 took us 80km (50 miles) to a stretch of tropical deciduous forest that drops off into a canyon full of what resemble the sand dribbles that I made as a kid at the beach. Only much larger and shades of red and white. With hardwoods and a soaring panoramic vista stretching to the sunset.

    All in all, pretty epic.

    I felt like I was on the set of a movie.
    In a good way.

    The drive there was educational. Richard was a wellspring of local knowledge and shared some nice history lessons - I didn't realize that Madagascar only escaped French occupation in 1960. The resultant upheaval, after ~70 years of exploitation (and some benefits, I am sure) helps explain how this beautiful country is .... a mess.

    I hate to criticize anywhere I visit, because what do I know? I'm new here. But that said.... the roads are in poor condition; people living just 20km (~12miles) from a major city do not have an electric grid; the country has killed 90% of its fabulous forests and deforestation and climate change are wrecking rain patterns - causing drought and floods; people are fleeing rural areas to the overcrowded cities in search of 'better'; and the incumbent president has delayed elections amidst accusations (supported by 100% of the people I've met) of terrible corruption.

    Clearly there is some room for improvement here.

    I'm grateful to Richard for his viewpoints and info. Also because we stopped for fresh coconuts, and I love coconuts on a hot day.

    Despite all the apparent mayhem- people seem pretty happy. Kids play, adults laugh a lot, I get a smile back every time I offer one. That says a lot about the people, more than the conditions.

    Richard was also openly curious and somewhat informed about California's wildfires and our gubernatorial history with Conan The Barbarian. He was a big fan of one of our previous presidents and incredulous that the other somehow was elected at all.

    We bonded on the amazing utility of solar power and the vital importance of addressing climate change. I felt a bit hypocritical as I was driven in a private SUV to go see the sights.... but tourism, even eco tourism, is a tricky force to evaluate. Does bringing tourist dollars help conserve natural wonders and forests? Yes. It does. Do plane flights and private cars cause air pollution and increase carbon footprints? Yes. They do.

    I used dozens of plastic bottles for water this week, which I would never do at home.

    So where do the scales align? I don't know. It is worth considering, though.

    We returned to Diego Suarez at night. I grabbed a quick bite at a chinese food place near the hotel. The food was delicious pretty much like what I expected chickem and veggies in hot and sour sauce would taste like: yumm. I turned in early - 6AM taxi to the airport.

    What a great day!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Mozzie Bites

    October 25, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    I have extolled the virtues of Sakalava but in fairness.... there are sand flies and some mozzies. I have numerous bites. I was pretty lazy w/re to using repellant. I could have done better.

    I don't like itching. I made the mistake of scratching one bite, now many are having itchy little histamine flare-ups. No fun at all.

    That is all.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Where the magic happens
    Rice paddies and veggie gardens span the low valleyThin air, pines, and red earthBanana RovaSylivie's hens

    Lunch Surprise

    October 26, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Mariah met me at the airport and I was admittedly relieved to finally have a face to put with the emails.

    We jumped in the car and headed across beautiful rice and veggie fields towards the nearby mountain where I was to tour the King's Palace. At over 1,500 meters of elevation, the air was cool(er) and the views were spectacular. The valley floor has always been fertile swampland, and had almost no construction until the French 'improved' it. It makes for great farmland using traditional small-plot methods. I'd imagine that living near the swamp is bugtastic, muggy, and hot. With so many highlands nearby, the traditional settlement pattern seems to make a lot of sense.

    Our first choice of lunch spots was closed so we found a nearby second option. Much to our surprise, Banana Rova is a labor of love by french chef Sylivie Cournarie. The food was amazing. Simply superb.

    We started w foie gras and freshly baked bread, then I enjoyed a grilled duck breast with a berry glaze, accompanied by two types of green beans from the garden, and a fantastic squash dish that included pink peppercorns and pure magic. Mariah had a gratin of tuna and green plantains. She said it was to die for. Dessert was a chocolate fondant with berries, non-dairy chantilly cream, and nasturtium blossoms.

    My hasty description doesn't do justice to the culinary art that we enioyed. That it was a complete surprise made it perhaps even more fun.

    If great eats isn't enough, Sylvie told us about how most of her profits are put into helping Malagasy Children. She has supported over 3,000. This place is a real gem.

    We hadn't budgeted time, unfortunately, to see the 4,000 plants in her botanical garden. I am sure that it is equally wonderful!

    Maybe I'll get back there, someday.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    A cow is sacrificed here annually, seeking good fortune
    Once sacred, this entrance leads to where the sacrificial cow is storedGreat viewsCeremonial cannon from FranceThe King's PalaceThe Queen's Palace (later, bigger)More viewsWall made of sand and eggwhitesGuess what? Views. Sadly deforestedNirana, my excellent guide

    King's Palace

    October 26, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    After the amazing lunch (see previous) we went up to the tallest mountain (hill) in Antananarivo where King built his palace.

    It has been a sacred site for many generations, affords excellent protection from surprises, and is a bit cooler than the valley. At 1,600+ meters (about 5,000ft) the views are lovely, the air is fresh(er) and the King slept higher than everyone else, which is important.

    This king is of particular significance in that he is the first to unite the Malagasy tribes into a nation. Sadly, this set the stage for French domination about 100 years later (but see my next post for more of that history).

    The palace itself ... I was surprised at the humility of it. Simple, attractive, and probably a good indicator of how good life was in Madagascar in the late 1700's.

    My theory is that when fruit and animals are abundant, and the weather is agreeable, people don't build complex edifices. They just aren't needed.

    But also, the traditional belief is that homes should be wood because it is warm and alive; tombs are made of stone, not homes.

    One very cool detail: there's a large wall that was built entirely from fine sand and egg whites! Feels exactly like concrete and is several centuries old. Love it!

    An interesting thing: jacaranda is widely planted here and is either "embraced by royalty because they considered blue to be good" or "planted by France to assert their authority"

    Jacaranda is from Brazil. There's not much chance that the Malagasy went and found it themselves.

    Sure is pretty right now.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Mango!1MarketMarket VeggiesHotel and moonDusk viewI like the way mozzie nets look (and love how they work)

    Splashdown, Hotel in Tana

    October 26, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    After a long day of travel in a warm climate, a pool is among my favorite luxuries. The hotel in Tana (the name of which I haven't yet learned) is nice: clean, attractive, small, personal... Has a pool! I'm happy.

    After a quick dip I realized that I'd rather check out the street market nearby than lounge around.

    The market was a combination of stalls and squatters. Evwrything from charcoal ro stiffes animals to peanuts to veggies were for sale. I almoat made dinner of some street food, but friwd samosas just weren't what I wanted and the grilled meats covered in flies were outside my "it'll be fine" zone. I giess all adventures have boundaries. Truth is that I really wasn't very hungry after our huge lunch, anyway.

    I headed back to the hotel as I've heard Tana at night is maybe not very safe.

    Mango season is here - they're about 10 cents each. I only bought one, (for now), as I have no knife (yet). Peel & eat mango is a fibrous affair: I spent as much time flossing as I did eating. Worth it.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Somehow, not the dogs I expect in Madagascar

    Quick "Preserve" Stop

    October 27, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Eco tourism takes many forms.

    Along the road to Andasibe today we stopped at a small "preserve" where they have a great collection of reptiles.

    I suspect they sometimes have more butterflies as well, but that part of the collection/tour was light.

    I got to see a dozen+ absolutely fantastic geckos and chameleons up close. My favorite was the Panther Chameleon. I held some boas- not actually my favorite thing to do as I don't generally trust snakes- but they're wondefully iridescent in a way that only snakes can be. I'm told Mada has no poisonous snakes! Love it.

    Tiny orange frogs, brilliant green/gold frogs and a fascinating tomato frog (that I think might be a toad) were hits as well.

    There was one bored looking crocodile, but then crocs almost always look bored.

    I ate a lunch not worthy of comment and we hit the road again.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Ask And Yea Shall Receive

    October 28, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    It never hurts to ask.

    I arrived in Madagascar through an indirect and largely unplanned route.

    Being in a country renowned for biodiversity and endemic species means: nature hikes!

    Normally, nature hikes means: binoculars!
    I love the magic of bringing beauty right up close.

    My travels to date weren't of the birding persuasion and while I have occasionally wished I had binocs, I hadn't had a strong enough need nor opportunity to obtain decent quality. Until, that is, I was faced with a large group of friendly Scandinavians who were here having a lovely time with long camera lenses and... Binoculars.

    So when it came up that they were leaving for home, I asked someone if she would be willing to sell her binocs to me ... I'm delighted that she agreed.

    After a little logistical struggle, I've transferred an entirely reasonable amount of money from the USA to Norway, and am the proud new owner of almost-new swarovski 8x25 field glasses.

    This is the sort of feel good moment that makes me happy that I was raised by Bonnie Broyles- a woman who has never shied away from meeting her new friends at any destination.

    Let the adventure continue!    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    These millipedes live only 48 hoursListen to the Indri Indri!

    Waterfall and Lemurs

    October 29, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    We got an early start to fetch Ali and head to the primary forest in Mantadia.

    Inconveniently, the ticket office opens at 7AM (ish) so our early start was foiled. But we grabbed our guide (whose name I did not write down and have forgotten) and headed up the 18km (11 mile) rough double-track road to one of the last chunks of virgin rain forest in Madagascar. (90% deforestation. Awful)

    Along the way we stopped to enjoy some Indri Indri calls (which are amazing) then watched some really rambunctious bamboo lemurs hopping through the bamboo.

    As we got near our trailhead, we took a quick detour to find a pygmy kingfisher (bird). It is small, reddish, beautiful, endemic to Madagascar, in danger of extinction, and generally considered a prize amongst birders. Having the right guide helps... We found the bird in mere minutes.

    Having spiffy binocs also helped. I'm very happy to have them.

    We tromped through rugged forest terrain for a few hours, spotting birds and bugs and lemurs like crazy. Today's cast of characters includes the Indri Indri (vid of their call, attached), the Bamboo Lemur, the Red Bellied lemur, and the Black & White Lemur. I've mostly stopped taking photos as they really aren't good on a phone (at a distance), and professional photos are easy to find online.

    We wrapped the day by taking a swim in an idyllic waterfall pool after seeing some more beautiful birds (including the Paradise Flycatcher).

    I dozed lightly as we bumped along the sunny road, spotted a chameleon or two, and generally enjoyed the natural beauty of the landscape.

    Tomorrow I'm off to the coast.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Sound up! Indri Indri greet the new day

    Akinan'ny Nofy

    October 30, 2023 in Madagascar

    I'm sitting with my feet in soft white sand, and looking at brilliantly green plants growing out of lakewater that is just a mere shade darker than the brilliantly blue sky.

    It feels like I've crawled into a Kodachrome universe that's so bright it hurts. Ok, maybe Velvia, if I'm being literal instead of poetic, but the former sounds better.

    It's beautiful; warm, but not particularly muggy and there's a gentle breeze ruffling the trees.

    I've taken one hike and two swims in one of the two lakes that surround the resort where I'm staying, watched a sunset and a sunrise, played cards over dinner (boulet? Incredibly complicated and no easier in mostly-French), slept deeply, oggled the nearly full moon as she slipped out of the sky, and enjoyed the company of some semi-tame Indri Indri.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Scrub
    HomesA homeThe storeDugout fishing canoesWhen my life looks like a beer ad, I'm usually smilingCautious kidsThe store, note door heightFishing village. No cars means no roadsFishingWalking backBack at the Resort

    Village Jaunt

    October 30, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Shortly after arriving at my hotel I met three delightful guests who are from France but live in Antananarivo and took a vacation.

    We all enjoyed saying hello, then they invited me to join them in a walk to a local village. The walk was about 6km (3+ miles) round trip on spectacularly pretty beaches and through brush. We bumped into a few groups of people who looked to be using branches to corral fish into a big net- a technique I've seen several times in Africa. Based on the fine mesh of the net, I suspect they are catching really small fish, which is probably not all that sustainable... But this is mere conjecture on my part as we didn't see them when done, only when beginning.

    Their bashful smiles and giggles amongst themselves makes me think that maybe they don't see a lot of people who look like the four of us. "Vazaha" means stranger around here, and usually means of European extraction, sorta like "Gringo" in Latin America - not necessarily a perjorative term.

    The village was almost entirely built of thatch huts. Most looked pretty solid, some a bit squalid, not so different from any village anywhere: some folks invest more in their surroundings than others.

    When we arrived we were greeted by a growing number of curious children, and eventually a friendly guy in his ~20s named Ndrina Fabrice, who was visiting his parents. So we sat on the beautiful beach, chatted with our new friend, and played with the kids - who slowly got past their bashfulness; some candied peanuts really helped.

    The local store/bar sold beer at ambient temps (~30° / 85°) and to my surprise... I've acquired a tolerance for it. I suspect that setting and company makes a big difference and still *prefer* my beer chilled. But when in off-grid Madagascar, one adapts.

    We eventually said our bonsoirs and headed back to the resort with a beautiful sunset lighting our way.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Lemur Selfie!
    Manon with a lemurQuintin and a lemurJulian and tortoisesAnd piñasPicnicCoconut breakUbiquitous

    Palmarium

    October 31, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Fancy hotel w semi tame lemurs?
    Ok. I'll go.

    Also vanilla
    And tortoises, fairly large and apparently ready to get it on.

    The place was a little like Mada-disney, but it was fun and they had wifi.

    They also had howling wind that made the beach unpleasant. I'm glad to be staying a lower-key resort.

    The ride there, along the Palangala Canal, was wild.... Jungle grows into the waterway. Birds and rustling things can be briefly glimpsed, sometimes heard. People were smiling and waving as we went by and while they lived their lives beside the waterway in quaint thatch huts. From an outside view, and for a brief moment, it seems idyllic.

    I ended up cancelling my nocturnal aye-aye hike. In part I didn't want to wait around five hours, but also I realized that the guide was liable to walk us a few hundred yards, point at another lemur, and that's that, except... At night. Not that I want to *not* see another, just that I guess the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

    Instead we grabbed a picnic on a quieter beach, took a snooze, then boated up the canal to a cute lil fishing village to walk home.

    I'm enthralled by the natural beauty here. It's a very special place.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Bye lil lemur!Peace and beauty

    Departing Paradise, Again

    November 1, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    The more gorgeous places I find, the more gorgeous places I leave.

    This is a recurring theme of course.
    I've enjoyed Ony more than I expected. I'm usually a seashore kinda guy but due to how close we are to the Indian Ocean these lakes are all white-sand and spectacularly blue, and they have rainforest!

    Wonderful.

    I had a moment in the morning that stands out as one of the most peaceful, fully-present moments that I've enjoyed in a while. I had the sounds of lemurs and birds; the very distant crashing of waves; a light breeze rustling palm fronds; and the sweet silence of almost no thoughts at all.

    I'll miss this place.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    This monolith is a sacred stone in the Malagasy animism faith. It gets front row, the churches, no
    Apparently this is *the* Tamatave photo to takeGuardian of the Seas statuePlay!Statue for Women's EqualitySpiceVanillaNothing quite like raw meat unrefrigerated in the tropicsMarket veggiesRolien and I, touringMural for MiamiFound this awesome folding Camel Trophy MTBShady Banyans

    Tamatave

    November 1, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    To fill some time, I grabbed a city tour in Tamatave and I'm so glad that I did!

    Tamatave is the 2nd largest city in Madagascar with about 275,000 people. It has a quaint slightly worn around the edges French Colonial feel, pleasantly warm weather, and is the shipping capital of the country.
    It is also 17,709km from Mountain View, CA - where I spent the first few months of my life.
    I've come a long ways, baby!

    The furthest possible distance on earth is about 20,000km: Someday. In the mean time.... Any which way I travel I am "going home" from here, which matches my general state of mind: I am ready to get closer vs further from friends and family.

    Rolien, my guide, did a great job of showing me around fairly quickly so that I could catch my plane. We jumped in/out of a tuk-tuk (Harivoby did a great job of driving us) for a great combo of motorized and pedestrian touring. I love a good tuk-tuk.

    Highlights for me were watching kids play and watching adults play, too. The former were focused on football (soccer) and a hoop and stick, also a group of young women doing a dance routine together.

    The latter were playing a game like bocci, under the speckled shade of old banyan trees.

    We saw some ruins, some dilapidated parks, a very nice alameda, and the partially completed "Miami" project: a huge waterfront project aimed at imitating its moniker with fitness areas, public restrooms, restaurants, basketball, skate park... All to drive tourism. It is a bold move and a major expense that could really change the feel of Tamatave. I hope it works for the city and its inhabitants.

    The tour also included a nice market where I would have liked to pick up some souvenirs, but my backpack overfloweth already.

    The raw-meat-on-the-counter wasn't my favorite, but I did like the fruit/veggie area very much.

    Got to the airport with time to spare. I skipped lunch/dinner, but had some trail mix and... I've been overeating for days so it's probably a good thing.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Magic!

    November 3, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    My boarding pass says 5:50 boarding and 5:15 departure.

    Should be interesting.

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    The tree that smells heavenlyI love plumeriaPassion flowerI don't love the taste, but I love the look of macaroonsFun boats for frolicsThat flag indicates shark danger.Looks funHmmmLong dark walk to the car rentalThe smell! Heavenly

    Failing to Find the Fun

    November 4, 2023 in Réunion ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Last night's drive in a new to me rental car, in a foreign land, in the pouring rain, at night.... Was difficult to enjoy.

    Heck, the whole transit experience kinda sucked.

    The Madagascar airport money exchange didn't have small bills so I was left holding less than 10€ of ariary (Malagasy money). No big deal: I'll buy a drink and wait for my plane. Only the bar in the Antananarivo airport doesn't accept Madagascar's national currency. Annoying. Not a tragedy and certainly not worth getting upset, but combined with a 90 minute delay for my hour-long flight for which I grossly overpaid in Mayotte... I was feeling less than rosy about the experience.

    Upon boarding the plane via a drizzly tarmac, I couldn't help but notice that there was, in fact, a jetway and it was, in fact, attached to the plane. Why I am standing in the drizzle with the roar of machinery in my ears when there's a perfectly comfortable access attached to the plane? C'mon, airport/airline.... Do better.

    I took my grumpy with me as I boarded and when the attendant made me stop so that she could (helpfully?) check my seat number, I was over it. I wasn't pleasant to her and that was regrettable as she hadn't done anything really wrong. But ... C'mon. I can find my dang seat without someone saying "It's on the left". Yeah, I got it. Stopping me to make me dig out my stub from inside my passport inside my bag... Isn't customer service.

    Anyway, being grumpy made it less fun for everyone and I felt even worse for having been snappy with her.

    As if mirroring my mood, our flight was among the most unpleasantly turbulent that I have ever had. We were thrown around pretty well for at least 20 minutes. It was enough that the captain came on to remind us of emergency water-landing procedures as lightning crackled and flashed outside my window.

    For the record: hearing emergency (crash) landing procedures in that setting is much more effective than before take off. I think all of us were actually listening for a change.

    So!
    We finally landed safely (and very smoothly) in Reunion Island! I wish I could say that I refocused and was happy, but mostly I felt nervous about getting my rental car because it was 9:23 and the rental car agency says that they close at 9pm. I was supposed to land at 7:15.

    I'd already changed lodging once due to the first place telling me that their reception closes at 5PM. What kind of hotel closes reception before sunset?!?

    Anyway, I'd double checked to be sure I could check-in all night as needed, but without a car I would've had issues arriving.

    To my relief, and a nice step towards smiling, the rental agent had stayed late and was very sweet and spoke English.

    Fortunately previous-Steve had the foresight to download maps of where I was going. I love it when I don't make my life more difficult!

    With a little bit of enthusiasm and a lot of rain falling, I found my cute little rental car and got on my way towards the coastal town of Saint-Gilles. I only made a few small wrong-turns and arrived at a cute, clean, and comfortable 'hotel' around 11:30 PM. I'd started my trip in Madagascar at 1:30PM. Total distance travelled was about 1,000km (600 miles) I'd guess.

    But there's a tree outside my door that smells like the sweet scent of somewhere I
    want to be. The breeze is warm but refreshing. The rain has washed-clean the world and Reunion has flowers everywhere.

    I'm sitting on a concrete quay sipping fantastic coffee and eating both a pain au chocolat and a chocolate chip cookie while listening to a church bell chime the hour and watching a guy tow into waves on a foil-board. The water is crystalline blue the way water only gets when the sky is flat-gray.

    I'm watching a beautiful little family play in the sand while hobie cats zip out of the harbor entrance to zoom in the light and variable wind.

    The foilboarder just did a backflip exiting a very well-surfed wave.

    The fun is finding me.
    I just forgot to see it for a little while.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler
    Post Dive Happy Face
    Our trusty vessel. She did well in the waves.

    Plonger with Corail Plongee

    November 4, 2023 in Réunion ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Took myself for some scuba today.

    Conditions were much gentler below than above the water - the boat ride home felt wetter than being underwater had! Big waves splashing over the bow had everyone laughing, some of the laughs may have been nerves not joy.

    But!
    The boat crew did great and my divemaster, David was fantastic. Good stuff. I didn't have a computer with me (with which I'm fine) but the dive was less than 20M (60ft) depth for about 70 minutes. 2kg of weights w/ a steel 10l tank is too much for a 3mm shorty wetsuit, for me. <- for my reference, y'all can ignore this.

    The dive was beautiful with an abundance of interesting fish. My favorites were a school of Hatchet Fish (poisson hachette) inside of a large cave. The way the light sparkled on them was hypnotic and peaceful.

    I'm also a big fan of juvenile blue triggerfish, talk about an electric psychedelic "camouflage" pattern! Wow!

    Other notables: some cool eels, a school of tiny marine catfish, a friendly puffer, some turtles, many damsels and small grouper. Oh, and two species of lionfish, too.

    The corals are, alas, pretty beaten up or beaten down. It's sad after seeing so many fantastic reef-builders in Mayotte... Where I did almost enough snorkelling but maybe I regret not doing a scuba trip, too.

    After the dive I enjoyed chatting w/an expat from Michigan (I may have the wrong M state, Sorry!). We swapped some stories and I got some intel on places to visit. It was nice. I really enjoyed being at the shop in general. I don't know what it is about some businesses that make them such a pleasure to visit, but I suspect it has a lot to do with how much the folks there care about what they're doing. Whatever it is, Corail Plongee has it. https://corail-plongee.com/

    (Vids or pics from the gopro coming soon... Having technology issues atm)    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    Kangaroo? Who knew?

    November 4, 2023 in Réunion ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    I caught the tail end of sunset... Small but important navigational errors were involved.
    I rely too much on my phone for directions. I have no cellular data here and I'm not proud to say that I have been suffering for lack of the little voice telling me where to go

    Still pretty.

    Dinner tonight involved kangaroo. I think it was the 1st time I've tried kangaroo and ... It's pretty yummy: like lean cow meat, mostly. I don't plan to include much of it in my diet but it seemed worth trying. Really... I'd like to get back to a more plant-based approach but I haven't been willing to invest the considerable effort while traveling.

    Réunion Island is classy and pretty, also spendy. Dinner was almost 30€ which is about 7x what I've been spending in Madagascar. I enjoyed it, though. Good service is pleasant. Sitting so close to the water that it was a little damp on the floor is fun, too.    Read more

  • Steve BroylesSummer Of YesTraveler

    blowhole

    November 5, 2023 in Réunion ⋅ 🌬 75 °F

    I stopped to enjoy watching the power of the Indian Ocean pounding the coast. There's a nifty blowhole that puts on quite a show.

    The surf was heaving, heavy, huge.

    Beautiful.

    Not very user-friendly, with the rugged shore and super-sharky waters, but gorgeous to look at.Read more

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