• Susanne and Machiel
lis 2019 – mar 2020

Half around the world and back

Susanne & Machiel attempt to travel for a bit. Czytaj więcej
  • Museum and ice cream

    4 grudnia 2019, Argentyna ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Early busses seem to be the standard, and to El Calafate it was no different. A bit after 7 we were all packed again and walking to our shuttle bus location where we found a pretty cheap deal. Time to say goodbye to El Chaltén and Fitz Roy, we really enjoyed the hostel/camping, town, and area.

    The upside of the early busses is that you arrive early too, so after lunch at our new fancy-looking hostel we took a free shuttle in town to the local glacier museum. Which wasn't bad, although it was a bit overpriced and we felt more could have been done with it, especially the 'educational' videos which seemed either advertising for local activities or high level info hastily put together with semi-relevant footage. So much for the first museum experience of our trip. After that we felt like we deserved our first fresh ice cream of the trip. It was huge and very tasty 😊 And to conclude the day even better, instead of our standard tomatoes sauce we had a nice curry a la Franzi for dinner.
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  • A lot of ice that sometimes falls

    5 grudnia 2019, Argentyna ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The present in the morning wasn't in our shoes, but it was the local flamingo park we wanted to visit being closed when it was supposed to be open. This was a good thing, as it turned out to be quite expensive for what it was, but it was nonetheless nice enough to walk around the park and look over the fence. We then walked through the very (very very very...) windy dunes and saw some flamingos anyway.

    After a quick break at the hostel we took a bus to our afternoon activity, visiting the Perito Moreno glacier. It's really cool. It crosses the lake almost completely (sometimes completely) and is thus very accessible for viewing from the hill on the other side. We spent some hours walking around on the excellent board walks in front of it. This did not only make it possible to see it from above as well as from below, but we could actually get very close to it. We witnessed huge chunks of ice break off and crash in the lake, which was really great to see. You just cannot predict when it's going to happen. That did make us a bit anxious walking to the next viewpoint when some trees blocked our view as we might miss another huge piece break off.

    It was also amazing to see how huge the valleys and cracks in the ice were, sometimes going almost completely from the top to the bottom (while the glacier was 40-70m high), how uneven the surface is and how blue the ice looks in the sun. We had 3 hours to spend here and at the end it was still difficult to let go of this view. While the bus ride to the glacier took us unbelievable 3 hours (while we did not expect that at all, it was still absolutely worth it), the bus ride back took only 1,5 hours and made it possible to finish dinner just before 10.
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  • Das Glück dieser Erde...

    6 grudnia 2019, Argentyna ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    ... liegt auf dem Rücken der Pferde. And that's how we ended up booking a 3 hour horse riding tour at Lago Roca. Only Franzi had experience riding a horse, so Daniel and Susanne weren't quite sure what they were getting themselves into. But we thought 'Why not'.

    After a relatively relaxed morning we took a taxi to Camping Lago Roca where we pitched our tents and had lunch before going further to Estancia Nibepo Aike. Apart from us a French and a Swiss couple had booked the tour and before we could change our minds we were already sitting on top of Rafaela, Vanesa and Mancha. The perspective was a bit unsusal but after a few minutes it was very enjoyable. The horses were incredibly calm and did basically all the work. The weather and landscape were very nice and the experience of 'controlling' such a big animal was quite unique. Nonetheless, we were also a bit happy to get back on our feet and resting out sore butts when the 3 hours were over. We cooked dinner at the campsite and enjoyed the beautiful sky at sunset. Some really cool clouds here.
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  • A bit of hiking and a lot of pizza

    7 grudnia 2019, Argentyna ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Woken up by the sun that turned our tent into a sauna, we had breakfast with a nice lake view. Close to our camping was the hiking trail to the top of Cerró de los Cristales. The complete return hike was supposed to take 7 hours and involved climbing 1000m altitude. We didn't even try and just gave ourselves 3,5 hours so that we would have some nice view but still be back on time to get lunch at the camping restaurant before their kitchen closed. The hike was steep and the wind was strong at times. We got sweaty and tired but the views were nice. And during our deserved snack break to enjoy the view, we accidentally found some ant nests...

    Back on the camping we got some very tasty filling pizzas. When we ordered 4 pizzas the owner walked back to us to warn us that 4 would be too much. Convinced, we went for 3, and we couldn't even finish that but it wasn't bad to bring some evening snacks with us anyway. Then we relaxed till our bus arrived to bring us back to El Calafate. Daniel and Machiel decided to go for another ice cream there because they craved it ever since the last one 3 days earlier. At the hostel we didn't do much besides packing for another early bus the next morning.
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  • Back to Chile

    8 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Our bus left at 6:20, so we had to get up very early. Logically a big part of the ride we spent sleeping. This turned out to be a small problem as we still had to finish some food before the border control would confiscate it. It didn't help that for once our bus was way faster than we had anticipated, and even crossed the border at an earlier road than we thought. But it all went well at the border and we were allowed to keep more food than we thought, even the cheese. We arrived at the Corner Hostel in Puerto Natales around lunchtime, did some town exploring and enjoyed a very relaxed afternoon and evening at our cosy hostel with great people. The owners live in a boat in the garden. Czytaj więcej

  • Preparation Day 1

    9 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    On Wednesday we will start the famous W-trek in Torres del Paine. Since we are always a bit slow, we have booked an extra night, meaning we will actually spend 5 nights in the park. While we are really looking forward to it, that needs some proper preparation. We had heard about an oat flakes shortage from a hostel guest but we're lucky that they were restocked right when we were at the supermarket. So we could finish the day having already covered breakfasts and most of the dinners. We visited the Conaf information desk at the bus station to get some more info about the trail, and to pay the park entrance. Then we were forced to watch an informative video about how to behave in the park. Super cringy but let's hope it helps the nature in general. It was also laundry day. 11.5 kg of dirty clothes meant that we had not much more left than what we were wearing. Let's just say Daniel was ready to go for a swim at any time. Czytaj więcej

  • Preparation Day 2

    10 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    After 2,5 hours and what felt like a thousand minimarkets we actually had all the food for the hike. Our daily food schedule:

    Breakfast: 500gr oat flakes plus 120gr milk powder for 1 liter of milk
    Lunch: 500gr wraps or bread, 200gr salami, 150gr of cheese
    Dinner: 500gr pasta, lentils or bulgur with one soup cube and one powder soup
    Snacks per person: around 50-100gr of nuts, a müsli bar or 2 pieces of chocolate

    In the afternoon we still had to pick up our laundry and actually pack our backpacks. Considering the strict food schedule of the next 6 days, we treated ourselves with a nice dining out.

    We'll be offline until next week Tuesday.
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  • W Trek Day 1 - Paine Grande to Grey

    11 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    We needed to be at the bus station at 7am for our bus to take us to the boat at Pudeto, which in turn would take us across Lago Pehoe to camping Paine Grande in the national park Torres del Paine. It was raining quite a bit but we knew the weather was predicted to get better in the afternoon. On the way to the dock the axle/wheel/something on our bus broke. After some opportunistic and noisy attempts by the bus driver to fix it (by trying to drive back and forth about 10 times which only made it sound worse), we were thankfully allowed to move into one of the other busses that drove by. Yay mass tourism! Finally arriving at the Pudeto dock together with another 80-something hopefuls, we saw the boat arriving and unload the people who came back from the park. Surprisingly there were a handful of suitcases being dragged off. Also a lot of people had big heavy-looking sleeping bags that they didn't mind getting wet in the rain. Interesting choices, we thought, but only later we realised why this wasn't even so unusual.

    When the boat arrived it stopped raining! What amazed us the most was the amount of rental tents set up, which gave it a very corporate feel. It didn't look like there were many people who brought there own tents like we did. It was also possible to rent practically any other gear you might need for some nice high prices. And buy all the food you wanted as well, like 500gr uncooked pasta for 5 euros. The shop even had fresh food and we saw many people with bought lunchboxes from the camping owners. What also felt contradictory was that there were signs all over the campsite that any trash should be taken with you, yet there were trashcans as well. We figured it had to do with day tourists, but it still felt like it made little sense.

    We ate a quick bread lunch in the spacious kitchen area and then started the hike towards camping Grey. The trail was leading through a nice valley and later climbed up to a very nice view of a lake. There were even some icebergs floating that must have travelled all the way from the end of the Grey glacier which was were our camping for this night was located. The 11km trail estimated to need 3.5 hours took us 4.5 hours including some small resting and view-enjoying breaks and we arrived at the Grey camping at 17:30. Again, lots of corporate tents which meant that it was difficult to find good tent spots and reminded us a bit of a camping full of stacaravans/mobile homes. We did not like that too much but in the forest in the back of the camping grounds we found some nice spots joining other hikers with their own tents. We had dinner in the kitchen area, the only area where gascookers are allowed. This is due to a lot of forest fires in the past and the traces of that are still very visible in places. There was a viewing point nearby of the glacier and glacier lake, Daniel and Susanne couldn't resist to take a look and it turned out very cool. But we also had to sleep as we had a long day of hiking ahead of us.
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  • W Trek Day 2: Grey to Paine Grande

    12 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We woke up at 6 in the morning. After 2 hours of packing and eating breakfast, we were ready to head further north to 2 bridges with some nice views of the Grey glacier. This is actually not officially part of the W-Trek but of the longer O-Trek and was the reason for carrying all our gear up to the Grey camping. We gained 260m in altitude and during the 1.5 hour hike we had some very pretty views while getting closer to the end of the glacier. Afterwards Franzi and Machiel decided to still go to the iceberg-lake viewpoint that Daniel and Susanne had already visited the evening before. We've seen a similar iceberg lake before in Iceland but this one felt so calm and peaceful in comparison, and we could actually see the glacier in the background, though it was still very far away.

    Since we still had a long day ahead of us, we had agreed on being back at the Grey camping at 12 to have lunch. Being lucky we could even enjoy it in the sun that just made it from behind the mountains. With some new energy we could then continue with all our gear back to Paine Grande, where we had arrived by boat the previous day. It's difficult to say if it is more motivating or demotivating to know how the way looked like. Nonetheless, it was enjoyable even though the winds were strong. We took quite some breaks to enjoy the view of the many icebergs that had stranded on our side of the lake. Around 18:00 we arrived at the camping Paine Grande, set up our tents and had dinner.
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  • W Trek Day 3: Paine Grande to Francés

    13 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The weather started a bit questionable this morning and we didn't really know what to expect, partially because the weather forecast provided by the campsites was usually between 1 and 4 days old, and partially because this is Patagonia and the weather changes every minute, or so they famously say. The plan was to reach camping Italiano. Not to sleep there, but to decide whether from there we should attempt the climb up to the viewpoint Británico at the end of the Francés valley. Regardless of this decision, we'd finish the day at camping Francés.

    The first stretch went well and we soon took of our rain pants. At camping Italiano we heard that the weather in the valley was supposed to be ok that afternoon, so we happily took our heavy backpacks off, left them next to a hut, and repacked our small bags for what would be a tough climb of almost 600m over 5km. There were 2 other viewpoints on the way there but just to get to the first one seemed very tough due to the steep and technical trail which mainly consisted of wet lose slippery rocks and stones in all sizes. It started raining at some point as well, making Machiel fall for the trap of putting his rainpants on. It almost immediately stopped again, forcing Machiel into a double rainpants pitstop. When we finally made it to the first viewpoint, we fueled up with our daily lunch of wraps with salami and cheese, giving us the energy to continue.

    While Franzi had already proven that the emergency brownie she had eaten this morning gave her some superhero energy that made her quicker than ever, Machiel and Susanne were actually convinced they would not walk to the end of the trail but stop at viewpoint 2 out of 3. However, the trail got more walkable after lunch, the weather was amazingly sunny and the valley so beautiful walking next to a river in a very nice forest with once in a while views of the mountains and glaciers. So we couldn't actually resist and continued walking even though Susanne knew her knee would let her regret this decision later.

    Viewpoint Británico ended up being a huge flat rock in the middle of the end of the Francés valley from where we were surrounded by glaciers and interesting rock formations. A French couple we met earlier at Paine Grande nicely took some group pictures of us. We did however still had to walk back down, pick up our backpacks at Italiano and make our way to Francés, so we couldn't stay too long unfortunately.

    Camping Francés was in the middle of a hilly forest, and they had wooden platforms on which you could pitch your tent. The platforms provided nice flat surfaces but we were unlucky to get the two spots on the very top of the camping. This meant a steep almost 1 km hike to the bathroom and cooking area. What was also annoying was the fact that the kitchen area was approximately made for 3 out of 60 tents. And according to the rules of the national park (and what you get reminded about by signs literally everywhere) is that fire safety is the most important rule in the park due to the risk of forest fires, so guests are only allowed to cook in the designated cooking areas. Upon asking about where we then could cook, we were told we could also cook in a second cooking area, but this turned out to not only be even further down the hill but also not more than a picnic table in a very windy spot under a tree. Fire safety first... Haha. So we were quite annoyed by the fact that our gascooker flame went off over and over again while sitting in the cold waiting for food, and also knowing that we would spend 2 nights here.
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  • W Trek Day 4: Resting at Francés

    14 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    Due to Susanne's unreliable knee and us not having done a lot of serious multi day hikes in a while, we had decided to stay 2 nights at camping Francés when we booked the trek and its campings back in August. Since we had been lucky with the weather and already completed the Francés valley the previous day, that actually meant we had a real resting day.

    Apart from feeding ourselves we didn't need to do anything. We slept very long, even had an extra afternoon nap, enjoyed a lukewarm chocolate at the restaurant and had our warm meal at 15:00 to get a spot in the windshielded small kitchen area, which besides a cooking area was also the smoking area. Lovely. There were also again signs all over the place that any trash should be taken with you. Except for cigarettes apparently, as for that they placed a specific cigarette trashcan. Not surprisingly, it was full of plastic as well. It was all a bit contradictory. To make matters worse, a part of Machiel's spork broke off, and his sunglasses have also had their best time. But they are both still in action!

    Given the hilly terrain, to rest our feet and knees properly we also optimised the amount of comutes between the tents and bathroom/cooking area which came down to 2 or 3 per person. We had a wraps dinner in our tent, went to bed early and were ready for the last two days of our hike.
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  • W Trek Day 5: Francés to Central

    15 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    When waking up in a tent it is difficult to judge the weather. Even more so when camping in the forest. It might be sunny but you won't notice as you're in the shade. Or it's raining but you won't notice because the leaves catch the water. Additionally, mosquitos and small flies have recently evolved in a way that makes them damn good at replicating the sound of rain hitting your tent.

    This morning in particular all we knew was that it definitely had rained through the night, plus that it was windy, because with every strong gust of wind it sounded like a bucket of water was released on our tent. We packed our gear and inside tents and braved our way outside.

    It turned out to actually rain. And even worse, it wouldn't stop for the next 3 hours, and only seemed to get heavier with time. So for the very first time on this multi day hike, we actually had to hike through proper rain. This turned out to be a good test for our rain gear. The feeling of water getting in and slowly soaking your underpants or shirt is just lovely. At least the path was fairly easy to walk and we reached camping Los Cuernos after just 1.5 hours. We thankfully took the opportunity to shelter from the rain and inspect how wet we were . Daniel's 7-year old rain jacket was more of a rain-through-jacket and the same was true for Susanne's and partially also Machiel's rain pants. Through unlucky river crossings or very soaked pants Franzi, Susanne and Daniel also ended up with (partially) wet shoes. Machiel's 6 year old rain jacket (which has been falling apart lately, including the duct tape on it) held on surprisingly well.

    Nonetheless, we had to continue at some point and when we did after an hour, we were lucky the worst seemed to have passed. The last 4 hours of the trail the weather changed between raindrops and sunshine or both at the same time and by the time we arrived at camping Central, most of our clothes had dried. Due to the bad weather we took less breaks and probably arrived earlier than we otherwise would've. Of course, we also couldn't enjoy the nature as much. Though the cyan lake on our right looked beautiful.

    The region of camping Central was a bit different than the rest, given that you don't need a ferry to reach this side of the national park. On the way to the camping we walked by a big hotel and a parking lot, and we had to cross actual roads. There was also a herd of horses running right at us when we crossed. The horses were used in the park to transport food, trash, and for horse riding tours.

    The camping at Central was thankfully better than Francés, with a slightly larger cooking area. Regardless, we had learned our lesson and used our early arrival time to cook a warm lunch when it wasn't busy, and then later had a cold wraps dinner before sleeping early.
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  • W Trek Day 6: Central to the towers

    16 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    We weren't as crazy as some others who planned on seeing the sunrise at the base of the towers - a 4 hour hike from our camping. Nonetheless, the plan was to leave early. So the alarms went off at 5:30. After an easy flat first 30 minutes, the climbing started. Just when we warmed up from that and were taking off layers, our map showed a point was approaching called 'Windy pass'. How windy could that get, we thought. Very windy as it turned out, as Machiel almost lost a hiking stick and Daniel's bag almost rolled into a river. But we survived and came out stronger. We soon reached our halfway point: camping Chileno. When we booked our trek in August we wanted to camp here instead of at Central, but they were already sold out. Either way, now it was a nice place for a break and we enjoyed the lack of wind in their refugio while chewing on some nuts and chocolate.

    Time for the toughest part of the day: climbing 450m in altitude over the next 4.3km. The first half was still a very enjoyable walk along the river through some nice forest but soon the path turned into a wall of loose stones. The windy and sweaty hike up didn't seem to end, but we stayed motivated by the big tour groups emerging behind us that we didn't want to be eaten by. When we reached the viewpoint we were busier changing into dry clothes while finding a good place to relax without strong winds, than that we were looking at the towers. The view was great, but our tiredness of the whole week, plus the large amount of tourists in that spot, made it harder to enjoy than usual.

    After a while we were cold enough and hiked back down to Central. We had dinner in the restaurant of one of the refugios to celebrate our successful W Trek. The oven was broken, but they still served good sandwiches and juice. After a shuttle bus and regional bus, we were back in our Corner Hostel in Puerto Natales late in the evening.
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  • Vegetables and nothing

    18 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    The morning after returning from Torres del Paine was a slow one. We barely made the breakfast timeslot and our bodies were just complaining. We didn't do much except for buying a lot of vegetables and eating them. We took extra naps and spoke with fellow travellers in the hostel. Some also got back from the park, and others were preparing to go there. In the evening we went to a restaurant in the center of the town. As we walked into the restaurant, a street dog slipped in with us, which the restaurant owner didn't seem to like. Not much we could do about it, but he kept not really talking to us. Only later we realised he was just like that to all the guests for some reason. The food was good however so that's what counts I guess.

    The next day we walked a bit around the town, bought bus tickets to Punta Arenas and found some nice bakeries. We liked the hostel for many reasons, but it was time to move on.
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  • Goodbye Franzi and hello Punta Arenas

    20 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Our last day in Puerto Natales. We headed to the bus station for 2 busses. We had to say goodbye to Franzi whose bus would take her north to El Calafate for her flight home. A first goodbye of several in the next few days. Strange to suddenly be with 3 instead of 4 😢 With Daniel, we took the bus south to Punta Arenas. We tried to research possible tours to see penguins (yes, we are really trying to find them!) but the tours were either too expensive or people who took them told us it wasn't worth it for other reasons. We stayed in a hostel in Punta Arenas but it felt like a home stay and the host tried her best to get us into Christmas spirit. She also was kind enough to let us use her washing machine and clothes line to not only wash clothes but also clean our tent to assure it will be approved by bio security in New Zealand. For the rest there wasn't much else to do in the town and area without a car and/or lots of money. So we enjoyed the local food, had a walk along the coast and walked up to a small viewpoint. Czytaj więcej

  • Hike and games

    21 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Because of the lack of reachable inexpensive alternatives, we decided to go to the close national reserve. When walking to the bus for the second time (as the first time it seemed our timetable information was off by an hour) it started raining and wouldn't stop for a while. We were considering taking the bus back immediately without even getting off but then thought that was just too lame. After being punched in the face by the horizontal rain (yeah it was windy again) for a while, it finally stopped and got sunny again. We did a round trip of 10 km through some nice but not spectacular forest and then went back to the city.

    In the afternoon we played some new board games at a game shop. One of them was about racing so that made Machiel happy. It was cool to play some board games (for free!) as we obviously don't carry ones ourselves with us.

    Our last day in Patagonia ended with one of the typical 6 euro menu's you can often find around the country. Weird to think that our time in Patagonia was over but to be honest we also had a bit enough of the strong winds and the cold and we're looking forward to a warmer climate.
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  • The center of Santiago

    22 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Our flight back to Santiago was leaving at 10:07 and 3.5 hours later we arrived in a very different climate. Suddenly it was summer. This time we decided to be brave and booked accommodation in the center of the city. This was totally not driven by price and availability. We originally wanted to join a free guided tour, but since we arrived a bit too late for this we went to nearby park instead. With a funicular we went up Cerró San Cristóbal. From there we had a very nice view over the huge city of Santiago. Walking a bit around made us sweat quite a bit and we really needed an ice cream which turned out so big it was tricky to finish - but nonetheless very tasty.

    Afterwards we took the cable car to go a bit further and get some other views of the city. We also walked a bit through some Chilean garden before it was time to head back. Back at the hostel we realized that we were missing 380 pesos (which is like 50 cents) to be able to pay our taxi to the airport. The hostel personnel was kind enough to help us out so that we didn't need to find an ATM without transaction fees on our last evening.

    Finding a cheap and non-party place for dinner turned out difficult but we managed and had some last typical Chilean meal. There were no protests that evening but we were still warned by hostel personnel to not go near a certain square.
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  • Goodbye

    23 grudnia 2019, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    It was time to say goodbye - to Daniel and later in the day also to South America. How weird to suddenly be with the 2 of us.

    To actually be allowed to enter New Zealand, we needed to have a flight ticket showing we would intend to leave again. That meant we had to do some research on where we wanted to go afterwards. Australia was next on our list but after some thinking and researching with the good WiFi of the hostel we actually booked a flight to go to Fiji first.

    Once that was settled we decided to be brave and walk a bit through the actual city center of Santiago. It was hot, super crowded, interesting but also made us realize again why we don't really like cities too much. There was a road intersection destroyed by (we assume) protestors, but for the rest the city looked quite functional. Also had a lot of nice street art. We attempted to have a relaxing lunch in a park with Chilean bread, which is way too weak and fluffy, and it didn't take long before an army of pigeons told us this was a bad idea.

    At 16:00 it was time to leave to the airport to start our journey to New Zealand, but not before going the wrong way first.
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  • The curious case of Christmas evening

    24 grudnia 2019, Argentyna ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Turns out we hadn't had enough yet of Argentina. We wanted to have just one more peek at the country, and we figured the airport of Buenos Aires was the perfect place to do it. At Santiago airport we stored up on some salt and fat at a burger place, bought the cheapest water we could find, and hurried to the gate which felt like it was located in terminal 953 gate 99c. Turns out it was a very nice modern building, and we assume they're still working on getting there quicker.

    With some delay we arrived in Buenos Aires in the evening on the 23rd, and had a fantastic time waiting for the next flight to Auckland which was supposed to leave right before midnight. In the mean time, Susanne still cleaned her shoes in the bathroom to make sure New Zealand would accept them. Then we flew west, i. e. sort of back in time. We were of course not flying as quickly as we passed the timezones, so slowly it did get later. Then after a couple of hours, around 4 or 5 in the morning of the 24th, we crossed the date line... and we skipped Christmas eve. It was now December 25th. Merry Christmas!
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  • Ghost town

    25 grudnia 2019, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We arrived at 5 in the morning. We were lucky to be from two of the dozen or so countries that were allowed through the quick 'self service' passport scan. Unfortunately though, neither of our passports worked and we still ended up queueing, albeit in a much smaller line than the other peasants. Next stop and a first for us: bio security. A rather rude old dude hastily pushed us through a questionnaire about our gear and food. We thought people in New Zealand were friendly, but this guy seemed keen on leaving a different impression early on. We were sent behind a fenced area where we had to show our hiking boots and tent. The tent was then taken from us for inspection in their 'lab'. We were released and in the airport arrival area. After a desperate expensive basic grocery shopping (because we were afraid to starve knowing almost everything outside the airport is closed on Christmas Day) , we received our tent back. The next step was to get our rental car. Using a free number on an airport phone we ordered a free shuttle to get to the pickup place. There, they let us watch a short movie on how to drive in New Zealand and then we were allowed to leave with our Morris Garages car. While it wasn't a first for either of us to drive on the left hand side, we certainly needed some time to get used to it.

    We drove off to the north. Avoiding a toll road brought us to the small beach town of Orewa Beach. An excellent opportunity to have Christmas breakfast at the beach while watching some surfers. Driving further we could already admire the variety in New Zealands fauna just by looking outside the car windows. At a not so special viewpoint we found a nice snack shop selling us a sandwich and milkshake to stay in our happy but very tired Christmas mood.

    We were slowly running out of drinking water. Trusting the CamperMate app, we pulled into a campsite. We didn't find drinking water but the very nice Uretiti beach in Waipu bay. Later we read someone drowned there that morning.

    Knowing that we needed to buy groceries, towels, flip-flops etc for our beach trip to the very north, we thought it was a good idea to spend the night in the city of Whangarei. We found a campsite nearby, which was a bit expensive for our standards but we soon found out that's just how it is here. You can easily pay 10 euros per person to occupy a single tent spot. We wanted to enjoy our Christmas dinner by going out, mainly because we were super tired as our bodies were thinking it was 16 hours later and we also just didn't have anything we could cook except for oats. Walking into the center, it felt like a ghost town. We only saw a handful of other (desperate) people walking around, and despite of knowing all shops were going to be closed, we had hoped for more than a single restaurant to be open. The choice for dinner tonight was an easy one.
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  • Boxing Day in New Zealand

    26 grudnia 2019, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Boxing day meant that the ghost town was suddenly full of people shopping for discounts. And so did we. First we made sure we got enough groceries to survive a few days. The supermarket was amazing, there was so much, we hadn't had that for a while. We also got a simcard, and in another store we got beach towels, gas, and much needed flip-flops for Susanne.

    It was time for lunch when we finally had everything together. The lunch spot of the day was at the base of the Whangarei Falls, a nice small waterfall at the edge of the town. We really liked the care that was taken of the park it was in, it looked spotless, the people were nice, and it was for free.

    After some nice views we arrived to the next stop. A small hike brought us to the Tutukaka Lighthouse which is located on the so called Kukutauwhao Island. Only reachable during low tide, we were actually wondering what the definition of an island is. While the lighthouse itself isn't interesting, the views are pretty amazing. And also the walk there through some nice little jungle was very cool.

    It was getting late afternoon and we read about two free 'campings' for not self-contained vehicles/tents like us. In reality they are parking lots of which a small part is designated for overnight stays. Arriving at the first one of those, we learned that this small area was already completely full. The next one, Sandy Beach Camp in Woolleys Bay, appeared to be the same, but there were some volunteers from the district present that told us we were allowed to set up our tent right behind it on a patch of grass. That was great to hear, as it was right in front of a beach and there were public toilets as well.
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  • Lunch in the rich people's garden

    27 grudnia 2019, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We woke up to beautiful blue sky and a view of a very nice beach and some picturesque rocks with the typical diverse New Zealand plants. Making it a good habit, we had breakfast at a bench at the beach before getting ready to drive off for another road trip day in Northland. While driving, we saw two chickens cross the road. We still haven't figured out why they did that.

    Out first stop was in Oakura. We read about a possible short walk to the end of a peninsula with nice views. Unfortunately that was again only possible at low tide and we didn't want to wait that long. The beach there was still good enough for an enjoyable short walk.

    Some viewpoint stops later we got hungry for lunch. Finding the perfect lunch spot was a difficult one but we are confident to say that we found it at Jacks Bay. We weren't quite sure if it was private or public but stayed anyways as it looked just too perfect with 4 chairs facing a perfect bay with nice boats, blue water and an empty beach in front. Right behind us there were some enormous gardens and expensive houses. We were just heading back to our car and while still joking about that this is our holiday mansion, we heard a helicopter landing right where we were having lunch just minutes before. Turns out the place didn't just look expensive but apparently is wealthy enough to afford private helicopters as well.

    Our next stop was the peninsula of Russell. At the very top we went for a walk up a small mountain to Tapeka Point to have a nice view over the famous Bay of Islands. It was all so nice, Machiel had a hard time asking himself why he was born in the wrong country. While being known for not being a fan of beaches, he actually realized he wanted one of these New Zealand beach houses with huge windows and terraces facing one of the thousand bays.

    It got later so we unfortunately had to drive further. We managed to get some cash without transaction fees, so we felt very lucky. Then we got even luckier with the ferry we wanted to take from Okiato to Opua to shorten the way. Arriving at the harbour, we saw the ferry full with cars, looking ready to leave. There was a STOP sign and we stopped for it, unsure what to do without further instructions. The car behind us then thought 'what are these tourists doing?', drove around us and onto the ferry. We followed them and when we parked the car, the ferry was already moving.

    A short ride later we arrived just south of Kerikeri at a camping with very soft grass. Before having a delicious wrap dinner, we needed to get some fresh vegetables. This was an excellent opportunity for Susanne to get nostalgic as she spend several weeks in Kerikeri 10 years ago. Visiting the former Kerikeri Farm Hostel was nice and weird at the same time. The main building still looked the same with its orange trees all around that Susanne was treating when working here for a few days back then.

    When going to bed later in the evening we discovered a sandfly problem. Hundreds of them were around our tent trying to get in, and when we went in at least 50 or so of them managed to join us.
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  • First swim

    28 grudnia 2019, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    6 of the 8 fuel blocks on the dashboard had disappeared. With a gas prices app we found the cheapest gas station nearby and fueled up. The facilities were only going to decrease going north. On the way there we checked out Matauri Bay, where a hill at the coast hosts a memorial for Greenpeace's Rainbow Warrior. It wasn't very clear how to get there, so when we saw some people going up somewhere from the beach we figured we'd try the same. After walking on a tricky and dangerous trail for awhile we realised it wasn't leading to the memorial, just to some rocks on the other side. We decided to turn around and found the right pass with the information board within a campsite at the beach. It was interesting to read but we decided to skip the correct path and move on. A little bit later we attempted the second climb of the day. This time we succeded and made it to the top of rock Ohakiri. It took only 20 minutes but the views were just great. Driving further the app campermate told us that we were gonna pass a cheap ice cream place. So we logically decided for having one sitting at Cable Bay watching some kites in the sky.

    Our choice of campsite for the night was Matai Bay which Susanne remembered as nice (and empty in September 2009). Arriving to the camping we were quite surprised to see a 'Full' sign at the entrance. We decided to ask anyways and were told that all campsites in the north were full but that they could offer us to put up our tent at the day parking down at the beach if we leave early in the morning. We didn't say no to that and pitched out tent with a picnic table in front and within a 1 minute walk to the beach. The weather was great and there were even some cold showers available, so we took the opportunity for a first swim in the ocean. The water was a bit colder than expected but we still liked it a lot.
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  • Living in the dunes

    29 grudnia 2019, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Our first stop was basically 5 minutes from our camping. For the first time during this beach trip we had an entire beach for ourselves and it wasn't a small one. After visiting yet another beach we were driving back off the peninsula. Because it was anyway on our way, we had a look at the so called 'Coca Cola' lake. The water is orangish. We drove further.

    On the way to the far north, campermate showed some interesting sight in Awanui. A factory producing and selling products made off Kauri wood. The big Kauri tree with carved-in stairs was the highlight.

    With our new network provider 2degrees we get a 'free hour' of mobile Internet every day. Sounds great, but we realized that this isn't very useful when you're in an area with little to no connection. So it was difficult to upload our footprint having to upload one picture after the other hoping for the wind to blow from the right direction or who knows what actually influenced the speed.

    We weren't in a rush to go further north and instead decided to arrive at a camping early to secure a good spot. We were a bit scared after hearing the night before that all campings were full. Arriving at Utea Park camping at the 90 mile beach, it turned out they had plenty of space. The campsite was awesome, right in the dunes with a very relaxing beach holiday flair. We enjoyed spending our afternoon there a lot although it was far too windy to even think about swimming.

    Staying at a campsite practically in the dunes of a beach at the west coast has the advantage of seeing the sunset. It was a sunny day with few clouds so our odds were high. Tired of the wind, we were resting a bit in our tent like dumbasses until we'd go out and see it. Of course when we got out of the tent, the sunset was already going on. We half ran to the 90 mile beach to see it unfold, only to realise it disappearing behind clouds on the horizon. Tough luck.
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  • Another day at another beach

    30 grudnia 2019, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We woke up in the dunes and had breakfast at the bench in front of the kitchen area. The wind had nicely decreased throughout the night. So our tent didn't need the car as a shield anymore. We packed and left to drive to the very north of New Zealand. We knew of two campings in that area. Of both we had heard that they were full so we were afraid that wouldn't work out. We decided to try anyways starting with the one at the end of a 15km gravel road gambling that less people would do the effort to get there. Also we went there already in the late morning hoping that would make the difference. 10km before the end we saw a sign saying 'Camping full'. We went on anyways because previously we were also already once allowed on a camp that had a 'full' sign. Our perseverance paid off. They actually had space and the camping usually gets full around 16:00.

    We found a good spot for our tent and then enjoyed the beach for the rest of the afternoon. The bay looked amazing surrounded by forested hills and came along with a smaller bay at the edge. The water was very clear and, seeing one other couple in the water, we decided it was time for our second swim. The water was cold and after encountering a quite big sea spider and stepping on something big moving under our feet, we changed our minds. Instead we laid down on the beach and watched other people who seemed to have similar experiences changing there minds about if or if not to swim.

    The camping is one of many managed by the Department Of Conservation. They usually have dry toilets and this one even had cold showers and everything seemed very new. We got rid of the sand-salt-sunscreen mix in the showers and enjoyed a tasty curry-lentils meal which would have been even quicker would we be more patient cooking it. But we are probably just missing our two chef cooks Daniel and Franzi.
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