Gällivare Domsaga

My stay at Saltoluokta was fabulous as always. Had dinner twice. First evening they served gurpi, a traditional Sápmi dish of reindeer meat and lard. It looked awkward like dark bread or shoe sole but together with that blueberry sauce it was truly delicious. The next day they had fresh fish from local lakes with browned butter. A dream! Of course I took advantage of their sauna. The only set back was when they wanted 300kr (30€) for using their washing machine. I just said “thanks but no thanks” and opted for the hand wash.

The last night the wind picked up seriously and I was afraid the boat might not be leaving the next morning. It did but over at Ritsem their rides got cancelled. And when we (made friends with Christoph from Germany and we took the same boat and bus) climbed out of Vákkudavárre onto the high up plains before Dievssavjávrri we got almost blown off our feet. And then it started raining. Not amazed. I was longing for the shelter on this side of the lake since I assumed there will be no boat picking us up today. Just to find the shelter burnt to its metal remains. Bummer. Headed down to the lakeshore and realized the wind had gone. The lake with still and it was just half an hour to their regular ride. I set the semaphore hoping for the best. Christoph arrived just minutes later and after a quick chat we could see the cabin host on the other side entering the motor boat. Joy, joy, joy. I was already set on staying by the cabin this night and not continue just for the opportunity to dry up at the cabin when the host invited us to their sauna. A sauna? Again? Heaven!!!
The cabin was full of Germans and we made lots of friends. Sauna was awesome, we had some beers and fell asleep very satisfied. Who would have thought after that awful weather?

The next day on Kungsleden was rather unremarkable. Yes, Kungsleden is awfully rocky, yes I’m painfully aware. I swear to myself to never set foot on it again (we know how that will end, right?). I had a very nice chat with the host at Kaitumjaurestugorna. Continued hiking just to get worried again when winds picked up and clouds promised rain. No sheltered spot to camp anywhere and climbing up to that plateau between Tjäktjajohka and Kebnekaise fjällstation didn’t sound like the smart thing to do either. But then rain clouds cleared up and we continued stubbornly. It worked. We found a somewhat sheltered spot to camp up there by the lake and the views were just truly great. Had forgotten how steep and dramatic those mountains are. The next morning light and atmosphere were even better but hard to catch on fotos with just a smartphone camera. Sorry!

Continued down to Kungsleden’s side trail to Nikkaluokta to face the inevitable: Fjällräven Classic with full force. Hundreds and hundreds of people coming from the other direction. Somehow I made it to the mountain station and took advantage of their all you can eat lunch buffet. I should regret this dearly.Read more