• Neolithic, roman and thracian day

    16 agosto 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    We started the day with a long, long drive north of plovdiv to a huge site at cabyle, covering many hectares of hill side, one of the biggest sites in the region. But it was very disappointing, there wasn't much there and first thing we saw was a small roman bath, but it was heavily "restored". The only other building there was a roman barracks, with nice walls but nothing else. However the site did have great views across the thracian valley and it was nice walking around in the sunshine!

    On to the small city of stara zagora, roman Augusta traiana, with a huge open roman forum and small theatre, but with a lovely small museum stuffed full of great copper-age and roman material. All the museums we found so far have been splendid, small, very local , but really well presented. A adjoint to the museum is an underground site of a 4th century private roman house, discovered while digging up some road works. It's not really open to the public without prior arrangement. It was just one room with a fountain on the middle, and covered in spectacular mosaics. Fish, animals, birds, gods and goddesses. It must have been its owners joy!

    Then an amazing find - a pair of neolithic dwellings. They were made of clay walls and were two storeys high, but had burned and collapsed in 5800 BC, preserving the interiors, walls, entrances, ovens, and storage jars.

    Finally back to plovdiv to go to the archaeological museum that was closed before- but wow - worth the wait! We only had 40 minutes before it closed for the day so we concentrated on the main things - a brilliant collection of neolithic artefacts, thracian tomb goods, a Christian tomb from the 4th century AD, so very very early Christian, with interior paintings showing christ as a young man, performing miracles , using a long stick like a wand ("like a wizard" the information boards say !). And a huge wonderful mosaic over a gallery wall.

    The final room contained a thracian gold treasure from about 1500 BC, heavy gold dishes, libation spoons, lids, drinking cups, all in spectacular condition and incredibly beautiful!
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  • Roman Hisarya

    15 agosto 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    After another good 3 course lunch we went to Hisarya - a spa town from Roman times to present day due to 22 hot springs delivering water at up to 51c. People still collect the water and it is bottled for sale throughout Bulgaria.
    We tried it and it was clean and pleasant.
    The Romans fortified the town with walls still standing in places to 9 metres. We visited a small Roman tomb with a mosaic floor (nice but underwhelming after yesterday), large Roman baths and the museum. The baths still have the hot water from the springs, piped with Roman plumbing.
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  • Valley of the Thracian kings

    15 agosto 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We spent the whole morning visiting tombs of Thracian Kings and nobles. They all date from 5cBC to 3cBC. As the Thracians had no writing little is known about them except what the Greeks wrote about them. At this period they were heavily influenced by the Greeks but had their own customs, beliefs and grave goods. They think the tombs were originally used as temples for rituals and only later as tombs and then buried in a mound.

    Sadly only one of the tombs was intact when excavated and this turned out to be of King Southes II and this was the first we visited. Its like a smaller version of the tombs at Mycenae with a dome formed of large granite blocks with a corridor (dromos) leading to it from a stone portal. The gold, silver and bronze grave goods are in the museum with replicas on site.
    We then visited 3 others all different and for unknown people.
    The final visit was to a replica of the most spectacular tomb - the original is now too damaged for visitors (but Bettany Hughes got in for a TV programme later this year). The murals show the tomb owner and wife, being blessed by the Great Mother goddess, with horses, chariot racing, drinking wine and other scenes of daily life. Really very fine!
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  • Walking day in Plovdiv

    14 agosto 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today we spent all day walking around Plovdiv, which turns out to be a pleasant little city with amazing history. The centre is quite modern but off the main streets it can be run down and threadbare, and it's surrounded by soviet era apartment blocks that look horrid, but our guide says they are much admired because they were so solidly built.

    Just outside our hotel are the remains of the roman forum, and the main shopping street is several metres above bits of the roman stadium that would been the site of things like chariot races. Not much left but made with lovely marble. Overlooking the end corner of the stadium is the dzhumaya mosque, the main mosque from the ottoman period, dating from the 14th century and still in full use.

    From there we walked to the bulgarian orthodox cathedral of Maria dormitian , and then up one of the three hills that give the city its ancient name - trimontium, three hills. At the top of the hill was one of the great sites of the city, an almost intact roman amphitheatre with spectacular views over the city- they certainly knew how to site them!

    Then lunch in the old town ontop of the hill with houses of rich 19th century ottoman merchants, and then down again to a site only recently discovered, a 2nd century roman temple with a 4th to 6th century Christian basilica built ontop of it. The basilica floor was entirely covered with mosaics in geometric and animal bird patterns, and it was HUGE, maybe the size of a football pitch, and the mosaics are all still there!

    Finally we were supposed the spend time in the archaeological museum, which is said to be really good, but it was closed - a trip for another day.
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  • Arrived

    13 agosto 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    No travel problems. Early flight from Heathrow landed on time at 11.30 local time which is 2 hours ahead of UK. It seems there are only 5 of us on this tour - us and 3 Americans, two of which are older than us! Our archaeologist/ guide seems nice and speaks good English.
    Of course it rained on the 2 hour coach journey from the airport to Plovdiv, just to make us feel at home, but now the sun is shining and it's 30c. Our hotel though a Ramada feels a bit Soviet grand and our room is a suite with 2 bathrooms.
    First lecture at 6.00 this evening followed by dinner in a local restaurant.
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  • Why are we going here?

    13 agosto 2023, Inghilterra ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Can't say Bulgaria was on our bucket list but an advert in 'World Archaeology' offering a trip to see 'The gold of Thrace and Rome' caught our interest. We had no idea where Thrace was and on investigating it turned out to be Bulgaria. The Thracians were a collection of tribes sharing an ethnic culture ,occupying lands from the Black Sea coast to Macedonia and much of northern Greece, from the middle of the 2nd millennium BC. Little is known about them but they built large, decorated stone tombs and produced beautiful gold objects - some of which was in the recent exhibition we went to at the British museum.
    The area has been invaded by pretty much everyone from Philip and Alexander of Macedon, Romans, Visigoths, Huns, Slavs, Bulgars, Ottomans and Russians.
    This is an organised archaeology trip concentrating on the Thrace and Roman remains with a bit of old frescoes in orthodox monasteries. We hope to learn a lot as we will be led by a Bulgarian archaeologist from Sofia University.
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  • Presents day

    11 agosto 2023, Inghilterra ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    As we are going away to Bulgaria first thing on sunday, we did finlays birthday presents today. Tomorrow we are all having a lunch together at a restaurant of finlays choice.

    The alfa romeo is finlays main present that we made to replace one that we made maybe 7 years ago. He seemed happy with it!Leggi altro

  • Last two days in Seville

    5 marzo 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Yesterday morning was not so cold as the day before but mostly cloudy. We went first to see some Roman columns in situ from a temple but it turned into quite a hunt as they were not where marked on the map. In the end they were probably not worth the bother except to see that the current street level in Seville is 14 feet higher than in Roman times.

    Next we went to the Hospital de Caridad to see some paintings but it was closed for a wedding until 2pm. Not the best start to the day. So we went across the river to Triana market which was good and we bought some ceps - oyster mushrooms - to saute for supper. We had lunch by the river which was still pleasant without the sun.

    We returned to the Caridad and enjoyed seeing some Murillo paintings in the chapel for which they were created.

    This morning we diligently went round all 14 rooms of the Museo de Belles Artes looking at Spanish paintings from the 15 century to current day. I don't want to see any more paintings of saints or fat cherubs for a very long time.

    Just as we sat down to have lunch at a pavement cafe our luck ran out and it started to rain heavily. They had no tables free indoors so we left and took refuge in a restaurant we went to a few nights ago. We didn't regret it. It is the best cooking we have found in Seville and we had another good meal.

    Now it's packing time as we leave for the airport at 9.00 tomorrow.
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  • Cold/hot day in Seville

    4 marzo 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    When we set off sightseeing this morning it was bitter cold - reported 0c overnight. We wandered up through the northern part of Seville, la Macarena, a poorer area, to see the remains of the Roman walls and Arab gate. On the way we passed the hotel we stayed in the first time we came to Seville in 1999. It looked the same from the outside but completely redeveloped round the courtyard - lots of marble and glass. By the time we had done that the sun was out so we indulged in the Spanish habit of sitting in the sun drinking coffee/chocolate to warm up.

    By the time we returned to our apartment for lunch on the terrace, the sun was quite hot and so for this first time this trip we needed to use sun cream!

    Generally the food here is more touristy than Jerez but still ok. Last night we went to a restaurant where the cooking was really good and we had a lovely meal.
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  • Sightseeing in Seville

    2 marzo 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We have been to Seville a couple of times before but not for 10 years. In past visits we saw the main sights - cathedral, la giralda, alcazar, tobacco factory (setting for Carmen) so don't feel the need to go again. Today we explored mostly places we had not been before.

    First was the Casa de Pilatos, built early 1500s by a marquis, mixing styles from genuine Greek and Roman sculptures, mudejar/Arabic, Renaissance and mad Spanish tiles. It was huge and interesting but strange.

    Next we returned to the archaeological sites under the Plaza de Encarnation which was discovered in 2005 when they planned to build an underground car park. Instead they thankfully preserved it underneath the mercado. Its Roman from 1st to 6th century AD with some lovely mosaics. They are still working on it.

    The plaza also houses the world's largest wooden structure known locally as the Setas- mushrooms - you can see why. This time we went up the walkway around the top from where you get great views all over Seville.
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  • Arrived in sevilla

    1 marzo 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Again all the travel went OK and we arrived in sevilla in the afternoon. The apartment is a decent size and set up nicely. A trip to the supermarket just 2 minutes away and an hour on the roof terrace watching the sun go down, and the parakeets flying around. I remember that there were lots of parakeets in almeria when were there a few years ago but I haven't seen any in Jerez.Leggi altro

  • Leaving jerez

    28 febbraio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    As always I can't believe our time here has gone so quickly. Tomorrow morning we leave and get the train to Seville to spend a few days there before flying home. The city is packed this week - as well being the Flamenco festival I guess its the start of the tourist season. A month ago there were almost no tourists here but now the streets are full of English, American, French and German voices, and as usual in the festival week, lots of Japanese! I think it must be time to leave!

    It's still only February but the sun is now really strong, although the air is still cold, and it was down to 0 degrees last night and forecast -2 tonight. Frost! Really?

    The weather has not been as good as usual and very unpredictable - we have never been able to rely on the forecasts. This weekend was due to be rainy and all this week in Seville. But we have had none this weekend - we watched the black clouds going across just south of Jerez. The forecast now for Seville is sunshine but a bit chilly. Indeed the only rain we have had during the day was when Pete was here! We are not complaining - there have been many sunny days and on most of them it is warm enough to sit on the terrace sheltered from the chilly wind. This evening we had our last glass of sherry as the sun went down - one of the real joys of being here.
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  • Carnival weekend

    26 febbraio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    This weekend has been carnival in Jerez. Its not a big spectacular like the one in cadiz, but there are bands playing and processions, especially ones for kids. One of the kids processions came through the pedestrian precinct next to our apartment with the kids dressed in fancy dress , lots of superheroes!

    I managed to get to the football today for the last time before we move on to seville. Xerez won 3-2 against Sanlucar, which is where we were earlier in the week. Still leaves xerez in the relegation zone tho!

    The weather is still strange. The forecast for yesterday and today was rain, but it's been quite sunny even though there's a biting cold wind. At least we managed to have lunch out in the sun.
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  • Brilliant day in Sanlucar

    23 febbraio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Breakfast in the cafe next to the hotel, just coffee, orange juice, toast and jam, but for some reason really tasty and buzzing with local people. Then a tasting and tour at the best known bodega in town, La Gitana. Probably the best tour we have ever had - and we've had lots. It was just us, and the lady doing it was so informative , we learned lots of things we didn't know. And the sherries were really good too.

    She said that there are over 20 bodegas in Sanlucar, and we've only been to two of them - we'll just have to come back.

    After that, lunch in the tapas restaurant of the other bodega we know, La Cigarrera, with fantastic food, and more manzanilla, before getting the bus back to Jerez.
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  • Sanlucar

    22 febbraio 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    The bus trip worked just fine - and again just 2 euros each. We checked into our hotel which is right in the middle of the old town and has a beautiful moorish courtyard and tiling. Right next door is a manzanilla bodega which don't know, set in an antique moorish house . It was tempting to go and try the wines but we were on our way down to the river side for lunch!

    Great lunch at the side of the river, then back to a quiet laze in the sun. Yesterday, today and tomorrow are sunny and warm but all the time our guests, Pete and the Armstrongs, were here it was cloudy, cold and windy. I think next week when we go to Saville it's going to rain everyday. We've never had weather like this here!
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  • Going on holiday!

    21 febbraio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Just for a couple of days.

    Tomorrow morning we will catch the bus to Sanlucar de Barrameda, a journey of maybe 45 minutes. Sanlucar is a town and port on the estuary where the river Quadalquivir meets the ocean, and is famous for its manzanilla, a type of dry sherry like fino, which is supposed to get the tangy taste of the sea in it. The town is also famous for it's seafood.

    We should arrive in time for lunch, then a doze in the sun, before going out again to one of the restaurants along the river front. On thursday morning we have booked a tour and tasting at one of the manzanilla bodegas before lunch and our bus back to jerez. I'm going to need a good diet when we get home!

    Friday sees the start of the Flamenco festival. Its a big thing and the city is already filling up. Last year we took the kids to one of the early shows, but the best ones are only on very late, starting at 10 or 11 pm. I don't think we will be going to any this year.
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  • Sunday on our own

    19 febbraio 2023, Spagna

    The Armstrong's left at 6.30 this morning to catch the plane home from Malaga 2.5 hrs drive away. Not without drama - the exit barrier from the car park wouldn't rise so the remote assistance told us to lift it manually which with some effort we did and they escaped.

    I went to mass at the cathedral today as usual but the place was packed, with plastic chairs in all the aisles and chapels and only standing room in the remaining spaces. I don't know what the special occasion was but there were 5 bishops and over 50 priests there. After mass there was a procession through the streets of Jerez with groups carrying hundreds of banners and a band! They seemed to be from parishes all over this part of Andalucia - I heard groups from Chipiona and El Bosque. I think they were the confraternities that take part in Semana Santa but there were none of the big heavy statues today.

    It has been very quiet in our apartment this afternoon and we are already missing our visitors.
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  • Last day with the armstrongs

    18 febbraio 2023, Spagna

    For their last day here, Natalie and Andy thought they would go to the beach again, but although they went and spent a couple of hours there, it was very windy so they came home again. In the evening we took Finlay to a book shop where he had seen a book he liked (in Spanish - he's learning at school!) And then on for a last meal together. While we were there a float went past with maybe 20 men underneath. They were practising for the easter parades when they carry huge silver statues of the virgin mary around the city, which are immensely heavy!Leggi altro

  • Beach day at Rota

    16 febbraio 2023, Spagna

    After breakfast Andy and Natalie picked up Emily and Finlay and drove out of Jerez to spend the day at the fantastic beach at Rota, about 30 mins drive away. Lynette and I walked across Jerez and went to Rota in the bus and met them on the beach. The buses here are marvelous, although they less frequent than they used to be, the bus to Rota was only 2 euros each!

    Lunch in the sun on the prom in time for Andy to give us a lift back to the bus station for the afternoon bus back to Jerez.

    In addition to a huge wonderful beach, Rota has a huge US navy and marine base so you can sit on the beach and watch the ships going in to the base, or over the bay to the port at Cadiz.

    Tonight Andy and Natalie have a dinner out at one of Jerez's best restaurants, which they have been to before and absolutely love.
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  • El puerto de santa maria

    13 febbraio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today we took a 10 minute train ride to El Puerto de Santa Maria, just down the river from Jerez and on the coast. Its where Christopher Colombus was supposed to sail to America from, but the port wasn't owned by the king who wanted to take credit for the trip so he made them sail from Sanlucar, a bit further along the coast. The Duke of el puerto funded one ship, the Santa Maria, and filled it full of produce from the area, including barrels of sherry!

    There is a small castle in el Puerto which was a moorish castle and mosque and is now a private castle. In all the years we've been we have never seen it open for visits - but today it was so we managed to get a look around. It's only small, but it's been done up really well, so worth the wait. Then lunch in a favourite tapas place just along the river, owned and run by the daughter of the family that owns one of our favourite sherry bedegas Gutierrez Colosia.

    In the meantime, Natalie, Andy, Finlay and Emily had a guided visit around the alhambra in Grenada. They come to us tomorrow afternoon.
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  • Strange weather

    13 febbraio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Last year we were here for 4 weeks and we didn't see any rain. The weather was mostly warm and sunny and predictable- you could rely on the forecasts.

    This year it has been totally unpredictable. We had a few lovely days when we arrived but as soon as Pete was here we had rain, heavy clouds and cold. Poor Pete - he came to escape the cold in Zurich.

    Since he left we have had some warm sunny spells each day but also much cloud and also it has been really windy - orange warning winds.

    The weather forecasts have differed depending who you look at - we usually use BBC and Accuweather and they are usually reliable - but they also change each day so it's impossible to plan ahead. We just hope that Natalie, Andy and the grandchildren get some good weather whilst they are here - but some are forecasting rain on Wednesday 😣
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  • Sunday and the storks arrived

    12 febbraio 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Sunday today so a quick walk to buy a newspaper. There used be one place where I could get English papers but it seems to be closed so I have to put up with the diario de jerez.

    Then a stroll around the cathedral, which is pleasant, without being grossly OTT as many Spanish churches are. And in late evening a football match at my favourite local team, xerez deportivo. When we first came here they were newly formed and played in the bottom local league, but since then they have been promoted five times, and now playing in league 2, the fourth level of Spanish football. But now they are fixed in the relegation zone so not so good! They scored in 20 seconds, and held out till the 75th minute, and ended up 1 -1, which doesn't really help much.

    While I was watching the game, the sky was filled with storks flying in from Africa, there must have been thousands of them!
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