Tanzania
Lushoto District

Here you’ll find travel reports about Lushoto District. Discover travel destinations in Tanzania of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

11 travelers at this place:

  • Day9

    Mtae to Moshi

    August 15 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After waking up at 6am to watch the sun rise - me from bed and Jack from a cold bench outside, we wanted to make our way to Moshi to get a glimpse of mount Kilimanjaro.
    Jack and I carried our bags from Lushoto to Mtae, hoping to continue on to Moshi without having to backtrack. Yet everyone we spoke to along the way has told us the only road that will take you to the "highway" for Moshi is back through Lushoto. Jack would not have it. She was determined not to go back over our steps. So we took a walk, basically more hiking, to the "downtown" of Mtae. It was one street with a mosque and bus ticket office which was closed. The walk though was beautiful - going along the mountain top ridge, gorgeous views from both sides.
    Of course, Boda Boda drivers were quick to tell us there would be no bus today (we knew otherwise), and so they tried to sell us a motorcycle ride back to Lushoto. So we took the opportunity to bargain for Mnazi, a town were we hoped to get a bus to Mkomazi where we could then get a bus on the main road to Moshi. This may sound like many steps, but it's pretty normal for Africa. You basically get on any bus until you're done going that direction, get off, walk to the next direction and grab the next bus.

    We got on the Boda Boda for 15,000TZS (6.50$USD) total - both Jack and I with both our bags on one motorcycle. Again - so thankful for a small bag! To say it was a steep downhill is an understatement. It was what once was likely a much better road, gravel bumpy and twisty road with at times what seemed like worse then 45 degree descents. I started out nevous, and ended terrified, but we made it! There were so many turns that could have gone so much worse. 12 kms took an hour and a half. This is one of those experiences that once its done, you can think back and say "that was really cool", but I likely would have chosen a safer route had I had a better idea of what to expect. But gorgeous views all along the way, friendly driver, and the town we were dropped in was one of my favorites in all of east Africa! Mnazi clearly is not often visited by us Muzungus. It has one main road. A few shops. A few local eateries. Not too many people, all of which were staring at us, kids yelling "muzungu!" in an authentic surprise to see us. We sat down and had a drink at the shop who's only advertisement was "cold drinks". The older gentleman had some limited English, and we chatted while 5-6 kids gathered around to play my fish game on my phone.

    We walked around town, not much to do, no traffic at all, so we decided to make our way to the Y junction just outside of it to see if traffic would be bypassing the town. After sitting down and reading our books at an intersection were not a single vehicle passed, we understood that if we wanted to get to Moshi today, we'd have to buy private transport. Boda Boda it is!

    We walked over to the man with a motorcycle, assumed he was for hire (which he was) and bargained for Mkomazi. Again, 15,000TZS for an other hour and a half ride! That's 3 hours in one day on a dusty motorcycle, holding our backpacks, with whoever was in the back's bum banging against the metal bars normally used to tie cargo. This time though, no hill, just a decent conditioned dirt road. Once at the main road, it took no more then 10 minutes for a big bus to pass, and a nice man from the town waved it down for us. At this point, we were running very low on cash, having paid for our hike cash and now our 2 transports. We actually had to negotiate the big bus price since we had nothing left on us. All worked out great, and once in Moshi, after a long and dusty day, we checked out a few places and settled on a dorm of 4 beds for 6$USD each per night, which we of course negotiated to 25,000TZS just to have a round number. A warm shower well deserved!
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  • Day5

    Onto to Lushoto

    August 11 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    As much as we hoped this wouldn't be a full travel day, it was. To make our way to Lushoto, we had to bus back to Tanga, then to Lushoto stopping in Muheza and Segera, and transferring onto a dalla dalla from Mombo. Local transportation here stops whenever someone wants to get on or off, which makes for slow moving progress.

    Our goal was to arrive in Lushoto in time to book a hike through the Usambara mountains for the morning, but we arrived much later then hoped. Still - anything is possible as a Muzungu. We got out of our transport in Lushoto and started looking for accommodation as it was getting dark. Within a few minute we were sitting inside a tourist office talking about prices for the hike. The man insisted on accompanying us to find a room for the night, which we usually resist but this time we needed him to hook us up with a hike so we didn't mind.
    25,000TZS for the room, including breakfast. And we negotiated for 50$/day/person (from 65$/day) for a 3 day hike, ending in Mtae.

    During the negotiations, we walked out saying we wanted to get food, really wanting to see what other companies had to offer. But instead, we found out it was market day and we ended up walking around the local market for half an hour, starved and not speaking to any other tour operators... Maybe not the most productive use of our time, but I love markets! We bought a sweater for the mountains since it's colder and paid the amazing local price of 2,500TZS (1.44$CAD). After this useless and wonderful experience, we returned to our tour guy to book everything. So it's 6.30pm and we booked a private guide who will feed us and bring us to housing for 3 days, leaving the next morning at 8am. Tanzania is making this too easy.

    We finally got to eating - it is now 630pm, and all we've had is chapati and banana in the morning, I bought a plain white cake piece and some oranges from the bus window, and that's it. So we sat with the locals and had ourselves some street food. It's the first time we took 2 plates! So far, we've shared the one plate and it's been enough, but this time we hungry! And then of course, like most tourists are familiar with, I ended up spending the night creating symphonies in the washroom, not looking forward to the risk of dehydration tomorrow. Yay for me!
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  • Day8

    Hiking the Usambara Mountains

    August 14 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Waking up for your body needing to continue its symphony creation is never a good sign before starting a multi day hike, but I was determined to not let it stop me! We made sure to have both our water bottles full, disinfecting our tap water with our Steripen, and I finished most of a bottle during breakfast alone (and obviously filled it again before leaving). This is where we meet our now best friend and chameleon enchanter, Rogers. I have a terrible memory, so I might be forgetting someone, but I can honeslty say Rogers has been my favorite guide of all times. He's funny, has great English, young at heart and played with all the kids and said a warm hello to everyone we passed.. He could answer any question we had and was a master of chameleon spotting! We started counting the chameleons along the way, joking that he would need to reimburse us the hike if we don't see 50. We got to 21! And last was just as amazing as the first - bright, colorful and changing before your eyes. Amazing creature.

    We spent the day walking through villages, up and down littles trails and ending with a walk on the main road going through the national forest. The sun was shining, birds chirping, everyone we passed was happy to say hello to us, the kids were excited to see us (but not in an annoying teasing way, just genuine excitement to say hello). It was absolutely wonderful.

    But then we sat down for lunch. Jack and Rogers made some fresh guacamole which we ate with chapati, it was so so good. But I had to go the washroom. Now if we were in the forest, I likely wouldn't have had an issue. But we were in town. And my shyness wouldn't let me ask for a washroom for fear the local villagers would dislike the symphony I would create for them. So I said nothing, and kept hydrating. Once we stood to continue our walk, it's like havind had that break allowed my body to realize it didn't want to continue. I became weaker, tired, my back was hurting from my backup, the uphill road ahead seemed impossible...

    After seeing me struggle with my bag, Rogers noticed I wasn't doing as well as the morning. He insisted on taking my backpack but I of course, being proud, refused. That didn't last long, and within a few minutes of the offer Rogers had his bag on his back and mine in his front. I managed to convince both Jack and him that it was just back pain. That I was doing great without the bag... The longer we walked, the weaker I felt. I grew quite. Jack noticed. She knows me a little too well at this point. But she also knew we had no choice but to finish the walk, so I under played it, says I was just tired from the day's hike, and we continued in silence. When we finally arrived to our destination village Lukozi, where a car was waiting to bring us to our accommodation, I wanted nothing but to lay down. I sat in the car while Jack and Rogers explored the town.

    When Jack got into the car, she asked for a full update, knowing I wasn't telling her the truth. I had full body aches, my back was spasming, I felt faint despite having drank more then 2L of water, and damit I needed a washroom! Once we got to our room (with private washroom thank god), I had the biggest master piece yet! Full orchestra. Then I layed in bed. Shivering. Aching. Yes, I had a fever. One heck of a fever. And as a tourist, diarrhea might be normal. Vomiting might be normal. But a fever - you don't want. Jack did her nurse / partner thing and fed me Tylenol and refilled my water bottle. I napped for 2 hours. And by nap I mean laid shivering in bed, not able to find a comfortable position.

    I got up for diner time, knowing that if I wanted to hike tomorrow, I needed to eat, which I did. Nausea was not a problem. I ate a full plate, no problem. My fever hadn't broke all the way when I started shivering again. I couldn't stop my teeth from clamering, and I wasn't due for more Tylenol yet. I left the table feeling worse then earlier, and went back to bed. Jack came in to 'evaluate me'. No rash. No nausea. No headache. Just diarrhea and a wicked fever that wasn't going away with Tylenol. That leaves a few possibilities, most likely (or hopefully) viral, and yes, potentially malaria. So as nurses, we made the decision to treat what we could - I took Cipro hoping the diarrhea was simply travelers diarrhea. And we decided to wait out the fever, took a second dose of Tylenol early (don't worry, I didn't exceed my 4g per day) and tried to rest. It was a long, shivery night.

    Cipro turned out to be our best decision ever! I woke up feeling weak, but no fever, and for the first time I didn't have to run to the washroom!! I can honestly say that was the sickest I've ever felt while traveling (or in general), but magically the fever never came back! I continued a much smaller, string cortet in my washroom visits, but so much more controlled! Modern medicine.

    Jack admitted to me in the morning that she was quite worried for malaria... She was already planning in her mind our return to a larger city in preparation for medical treatment. Jack here - I don't recommend reading the health section of Loney Planet when you're loved one is feverish. The concern that fever was indicating something serious, when in the middle of a mountain village, is a hard place to be. Back to Fred: It's amazing to think that something so easy for us to take, so much better after a single dose of Cipro, is inaccessible for so many people in this world. I'm not usually one to over treat, so for me to say I took 8 pills this morning is funny and ridiculous! I started my morning swallowing 3 pills for my morning dose of sertraline (yay anxiety!), 2 Tylenol, 2 naprosyn and 1 cipro! Fyew!

    Without my agreement but with my gratefulness, Jack reorganized our bags. And by that I mean she basically put all of our things in my 30L bag, took it and left me with her mostly empty 20L bag. By the end of day, we were both tired from the hike, but healthy! I hydrated, ate breakfast and lunch, I'm amazed of how well I'm doing! The hike was beautiful, through villages and fields and chatting with everyone along the way.

    We stayed in a convent the second night, and I didn't burst into flames, yay! Had ourselves a much needed hot shower and relaxed until diner was served buffet style with other hikers.

    The 3rd and final day started off similarly with hiking through villages, but ended with a walk through a forests where we saw our first and only colobus monkey! I love me a good monkey!

    For some reasons, the kids have learnt how to give high fives here - but they all seem to have the goal of the strongest high five! My hand hurt after a few of them. 'Props' was even worse. They'd wind-up before, and go fo a full punch. We sat for a water and banana break and were instantly surrounded by about 8 kids starting at us. My earrings have been the biggest attention draw so far. To distract them from us, I decided to give them my phone with this toddler game I have called Sensory Baby Fish. All you have to do is touch the screen and you feed the fish, the phone vibrates. I have it on my phone for my little buddy Noah. These kids were skepticle at first, but ended up loving it! They were all pushing to get a chance to touch the screen. Cute to see.

    Rogers is a man of many talents - he also is an artist, sells paintings during the low season, and he sings. We started singing random songs together and Jack decided he needed to be introduced to ABBA. Here we are, belting out to Mamma Mia while Rogers held the phone to his ear to actually hear the song. We got some Aerosmith in - I Don't Want to Miss A Thing. I sounded beautiful in these mountains, I tell ya.

    Lunch in a village, we said goodbye to all the other hikers we had met on the way and off we went to our final destination - Magumba Viewpoint Inn. This is the most randomly luxurious room! We got the best room in this place and it was included in our hike! Huge round windows in our room overlooking the viewpoint. All the Usambara mountains bellow us, clear skies... Gorgeous way to end a hike. There's even WiFi! We did some much needed laundry and relaxed, enjoying the view, still so so thankful of how well I'm doing. I stopped the cipro after 3 doses because I was doing much better, and this left us with 3 cipros which should cover another round of tourista.

    This 3 day hike was informative, fun, challenging at times, and rewarding. It's not often I speak only good things of a hike, but this was great. I highly recommend Rogers - if anyone is reading this hoping to head to Tanzania, call him up!
    Tel. 0677 844 568.
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  • Day172

    Brot und Käse

    May 23, 2018 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Heute haben wir den Weg zur Irente Farm aufgenommen, mit Maps.me war der Weg einfach zu finden, wir hätten auch einen Guide für 15$ pP nehmen können - die veruschen hier echt alles um von den Touris Geld zu bekommen.
    Der Weg hat ca. 1,5 Stunden gedauert und oben angekommen gab es braunes Brot, Käse (!), Frischkäse und leckere Marmelade, bei schöner Aussicht haben wir den Gaumenschmaus verputzt. Auf dem Bauernhof werden die Produkte selbst hergestellt.
    Ein Chamäleon ist, während wir auf das Essen gewartet haben, ebenfalls herumgekrabbelt. Wusste gar nicht, dass die ein Horn haben, die Füße waren auch ziemlich lustig. Es bewegt sich ganz langsam und lässt sich gerne mal an einem Rücken nieder. Die Farbe hat es nur an seinen Flecken verändert, sonst war es grün.
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  • Day174

    Mountainbike Überlebenskampf :D

    May 25, 2018 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Wir sind nun schon drei Nächte in Lushoto, heute haben wir uns Mountainbikes geliehen, die wollten erst wieder 25$ pro Bike, konnten aber auf 25$ für beide aushandeln, es sind auch echt gute Fahrräder.
    Leider war es sehr regnerisch in der Nacht und am Morgen, sodass wir schon mit dem Gedanken gespielt haben, keine Tour zu machen. Letztendlich konnten wir uns doch aufraffen. Unser Ziel war der Regenwald, in dem man auch Wandertouren machen kann.
    Der Weg führte nur bergauf und dabei nieselte es, den erhofften Spaß brachte es nicht :D nach langer Zeit und einigen Pausen sind wir dann endlich in dem Dorf, oben auf dem Berg, angekommen, von dem der Regenwald nur noch 2km entfernt war. Es war neblig und regnerisch, weil wir von Wolken umgeben waren. Ließen uns erstmal in einem einheimischen Restaurant nieder um etwas aufzuwärmen, leider gab es dort keine Fenster.. Wir entschieden uns Essen zu bestellen, nachdem wir den Kaffe auf hatten. An einem Seil hing ein Ziegenbein, wovon Nabiyu das Fleisch bestellte, ich entschied mich für Reis mit Bohnen. Das Essen war ziemlich lecker, meins kostete ca. 0,35€ und Nabiyus 2.25€.
    Der Regen hörte auf und wir waren wieder bei Kräften, also fuhren wir zum Regenwald. Es gab keinen richtigen Eingang, wir sahen nur eine 4x4 Strecke und entschieden uns diese mit unseren Mountainbikes zu bezwingen. Es hat auch ziemlich viel Spaß gemacht, es war sehr matschig und steil manchmal, weswegen wir schieben mussten, aber die Strecken herunter waren cool! Irgendwann waren wir im tiefen Wald, die Strecke gabelte sich, wir entschieden uns für den Weg weiter in den Wald hinein. Irgendwann war es kein Autoweg mehr, sondern ein Wanderwege, wir schoben und folgten dem Wanderweg, er führte über zwei Flüsse, in einem versank in mit meinem Bein :D schlussendlich standen wir an einem leichten Abhang mitten zwischen Bäumen und sagten noch zu uns 'Wir müssen uns merken, woher wir gekommen sind', das versuchten wir. Wir versuchten auch einen weiteren Weg zu finden, aber alle Bemühungen führten ins Nichts. Hinzu kam noch, dass wir keinen Empfang hatten und es würde in 1,5 Stunden dunkel werden. Weit und breit war einfach nur Wald. Anhand von Maps.me versuchten wir uns zu orientieren, es waren auch Wanderwege eingezeichnet, aber wir fanden Sie einfach nicht, weil uns dichter Regenwald einen Strich durch die Rechnung machte, nebenbei schoben wir auch die ganze Zeit die Fahrräder neben uns her.
    Letztendlich sind wir quer durch den Wald marschiert um irgendwie wieder auf die 4x4 Straße zu kommen - ein Wettlauf gegen die Zeit, weil es ja bald dunkel werden würde. Es ging wieder durch hohes Gras, Flüsse, Bananenpflanzen, Dornenplanzen, Matsche, Hügel hinauf etc. - wir sahen aus wie Drecksschweine.
    Aber letztendlich haben wir es geschafft und überlebt! :)
    Der Weg zurück war angenehm, weil es bergab ging und wir ca15 min kein Mal in die Pedale treten mussten. Nabiyu meinte wir seien 70 kmh gefahren.
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  • Day3

    Übernachtung Wanderung

    January 10, 2018 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    -coole Wanderung (20% an lokale Entwicklung, Klimaschutz)
    Nacht:
    -bei Nonnen (teils sehr jung, nach primary school eingetreten)
    -drei??? Gehört
    -leckeres Abendbrot
    Nächster Tag:
    -beim Frühstück über Hochzeit unterhalten
    -regnerisch, kalt
    -Aussichtspunkt leider vernebelt

You might also know this place by the following names:

Lushoto, Lushoto District

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