Tanzania
Lushoto

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    • Day 113

      Pushing rains uphill

      April 8, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      Again I climb into the Usambara mountains and join two other overlanding Germans, Jutta and Gerd, in Lushoto at the Paradise Eco Lodge where we are hosted by Uwe from Germany who is living here with his Tanzanian wife, 3 kids and his mom. With me I bring rain for the next three days.

      Jutta and Gerd are travelling in their mobile home, an old Bundeswehr Kategorie-1 4x4 truck (13-litre air-cooled V8 diesel), through the world without any time schedule and within the last 4-5 years they managed to get from Germany around the Arabic peninsula not further than down to here. Wonderful! :-D They tell me many valuable things about the coming countries up north on my planned route and also motivate me to think about Oman. I enjoy family breakfasts, lunches and dinners and finally continue "back home" to Mambo View Point over Easter.

      Check out Jutta's and Gerd's website: https://im-kat-zuhause.jimdofree.com
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    • Day 96

      Cheesus!

      March 22, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Brown, heavy bread, jucy avocado, aromatic tomatoes, citronpeppar from Sweden, locally made rosmary gouda and passion fruit jam, accompanied with Tanzanian freshly ground coffee from fincas south of Kilimanjaro =)

      Apart from calling me "Jesus!" all the time, since yesterday the young generation sympathizes with the new nickname "Corona!" for all non-locals. From heaven to hell in one day! -_-
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    • Day 106

      A local lunch and dancing

      August 20, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      For lunch, we stopped at a family home. They had prepared a selection of local dishes for us, including a bean stew, boiled yams, stir-fried carrots and green peppers, roti, beef stew, and a dish of mashed bananas and potatoes. We had watermelon, bananas, and avocados for dessert. We also got to try the local beer, brewed from sugarcane, and the local gin, which they make by distilling the local beer! It smelled of rocket fuel and was rather potent, but didn’t taste too bad when mixed with ginger beer!! The food was all very good.

      After we’d eaten, the family sang, drummed, and danced. Obviously, we were encouraged to join in! I avoided it by being the official videographer of the group, and Mark assumed the role of photographer!

      Following lunch, the walk got tougher with lots of steep inclines and one particularly treacherous descent. I know I wasn’t the only one who was glad to be back at the campsite in one piece!

      We got back at around 2.45pm and caught the last few minutes of the Women’s World Cup Final. Unfortunately, England lost 1 – 0 to Spain. It’s still not coming home! 😂 After the match, we stayed in the bar on and off until dinner time, chatting to our fellow travellers and generally putting the world to rights.

      Dinner this evening was a tasty curried vegetable soup, followed by a very tough lamb stew served with spinach and fried potatoes. At the post-dinner briefing, we fed back to Nash that the walk was harder and longer than he had led us to believe and that he should have been more honest with us beforehand. I don’t feel that he took our comments particularly well!

      Later, we had coffee with Ibrahim and discussed his time with Intrepid and our overlanding experiences. It was a nice way to end the day.
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    • Day 16

      Lushoto

      March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      Heute wird gewandert, endlich mal wieder Bewegung nach dem ganzen Sitzen im Bus! Bevor es los geht werden auf dem Markt aber nochmal Früchte gekauft.
      Durch kleine Dörfer, zu einer Farm, einer Schule bis zum Aussichtspunkt laufen wir. Leider ist es etwas bewölkt, sodass wir nicht ewig weit gucken können. Auf dem Rückweg werden wir dann vom Regen überrascht. Wir lernen schnell: wenn es in Tansania regnet, dann aus Eimern! Außerdem sehen wir eine der gefährlichsten Schlangen in Afrika, eine grüne Mamba, leider tot. Nach der Wanderung wird im Café nochmal gehalten und auf dem Markt Stoff und Gemüse gekauft. Wir werden erneut super lecker bekocht!Read more

    • Day 15

      Dar Es Salaam nach Lushoto

      February 29, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Im Dunkeln verlassen wir unseren Schlafplatz und es geht erst mit dem Bus, dann mit der Fähre, dann mit dem nächsten Bus zur richtigen Bushaltestelle. Dort werden wir sofort von ca 10 Männern und Frauen abgefangen und gefragt wo es hin hingehen soll. Wir lassen uns irgendwann weich klopfen und zahlen für unseren Bus viel zu viel. Dann will unser „Ticketverkäufer“ noch frecherweise 4 Euro pro Rucksack von uns haben. An dieser Stelle lassen wir uns nicht mehr übers Ohr hauen und bleiben standhaft! 6 Stunden sitzen und schwitzen wir. Dann müssen wir in einen sehr kleinen Bus umsteigen, bis wir dann gegen 3 Uhr endlich in Lushoto ankommen.
      Mweda wartet bereits auf uns in einem kleinen Café. Durch Dschungel, über kleine Bäche führt uns Mweda in sein schönes grünes Zuhause. Wir fühlen uns auf Anhieb wohl.
      Nach einer Dusche laufen wir in die kleine Stadt, kaufen auf dem Markt frisches Obst (eine Mango= 20 cent, eine riesige Avocado= 10 Cent) und verspeisen es in einem Café von Mwedas Freund. Lauter Kunst, guter Kaffee und eine nette Atmosphäre erwarten uns dort.
      Abends kochen wir draußen über einem Feuer typing tansanisch, trinken Bier und quatschen.
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    • Day 16

      Kisasa Wasserfälle & Irente

      August 14, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Mir wurde gesagt, dass die Regenzeit vorbei ist und ich mit keinem Regen zu rechnen hätte, also zog ich zu den Kisasa-Wasserfällen los. Nach ein paar Fotos fing es dann an und ich wanderte auf dem matschigen Boden zurück zur Unterkunft.
      Nachmittags kam die Sonne wieder heraus und ich wanderte zur Irente Farm, die deutsche Siedler vor einigen Jahren aufgebaut hatten. Dort gab es eine Brotzeit und die Vorfreude auf eine schöne Aussicht stieg. Leider war auf der anderen Seite des Bergsattels alles wolkenverhangen. Die Wanderung durch die Eukalyptuswälder war trotzdem super.
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    • Day 13

      Départ pour les montagnes Usambara

      January 19 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      C’est la journée où il fait enfin beau et je la passe presque intégralement dans le bus. Un bus qui devait durer 4h et qui a mis 9h. Heureusement, les vues étaient belles et en arrivant les choses se sont plutôt bien enchaînées avec un joli coucher de soleil.Read more

    • Day 15

      Lushoto

      August 13, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Um 4:30 Uhr klingelte der Wecker, da um 05:30 Uhr schon der Bus nach Mombo bzw. Lushoto fuhr. Die sechs Stunden Fahrt wurden von den zahlreichen mobilen Verkäufern gut verkürzt.
      Nach der Safari geht es nochmal kurz in die Berge zum Entspannen und das Dorf machte bisher einen ganz netten Eindruck.Read more

    • Day 15

      Trek Usambara (jour 1)

      January 21 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Départ pour un trek de 3 jours entre Lushoto et Mambo(Mtae) avec un super guide. 25km avec beaucoup de montées, c’était très sportif. Au début le temps était très couvert, mais finalement nous avons fini par avoir un rayon de soleil. Nous avons traversé la forêt protégée de Magamba, des petits villages où les gens étaient adorables et une multitude de champs. Ils cultivent de tout ! Tomates, carottes, chou, maïs, oignons… Nous avons aussi aperçu des caméléons et des singes colobus blancs et noirs magnifiques mais trop rapides pour les prendre en photos. Pour les 3 derniers kilomètres, on a pris un moto-taxi sur un chemin très en pente plein de trous et de pierres. Ici ils sont habitués mais j’avoue avoir eu assez peur. Hébergement et repas traditionnel super bons.Read more

    • Day 5

      Onto to Lushoto

      August 11, 2019 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      As much as we hoped this wouldn't be a full travel day, it was. To make our way to Lushoto, we had to bus back to Tanga, then to Lushoto stopping in Muheza and Segera, and transferring onto a dalla dalla from Mombo. Local transportation here stops whenever someone wants to get on or off, which makes for slow moving progress.

      Our goal was to arrive in Lushoto in time to book a hike through the Usambara mountains for the morning, but we arrived much later then hoped. Still - anything is possible as a Muzungu. We got out of our transport in Lushoto and started looking for accommodation as it was getting dark. Within a few minute we were sitting inside a tourist office talking about prices for the hike. The man insisted on accompanying us to find a room for the night, which we usually resist but this time we needed him to hook us up with a hike so we didn't mind.
      25,000TZS for the room, including breakfast. And we negotiated for 50$/day/person (from 65$/day) for a 3 day hike, ending in Mtae.

      During the negotiations, we walked out saying we wanted to get food, really wanting to see what other companies had to offer. But instead, we found out it was market day and we ended up walking around the local market for half an hour, starved and not speaking to any other tour operators... Maybe not the most productive use of our time, but I love markets! We bought a sweater for the mountains since it's colder and paid the amazing local price of 2,500TZS (1.44$CAD). After this useless and wonderful experience, we returned to our tour guy to book everything. So it's 6.30pm and we booked a private guide who will feed us and bring us to housing for 3 days, leaving the next morning at 8am. Tanzania is making this too easy.

      We finally got to eating - it is now 630pm, and all we've had is chapati and banana in the morning, I bought a plain white cake piece and some oranges from the bus window, and that's it. So we sat with the locals and had ourselves some street food. It's the first time we took 2 plates! So far, we've shared the one plate and it's been enough, but this time we hungry! And then of course, like most tourists are familiar with, I ended up spending the night creating symphonies in the washroom, not looking forward to the risk of dehydration tomorrow. Yay for me!
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