Thailand
Khlong Ao Mae Mai

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    • Day 8 - A Hornbill Party to say Goodbye

      December 17, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Woke up at silly o’clock again. So much for getting into a sensible sleep pattern!

      At 8.00am, I sat out on the veranda with a coffee & realised that the tree in front of us were teeming with a party of at least 20 hornbills, including juveniles. My research on our hornbills identified them as Oriental Pied Hornbills.

      After breakfast we showered, packed & checked out of Nitiporn Resort. Bizarrely, 2 lads from the resort were on us in a flash & insisted they transport all our bags the 40 metres down the path to Sabai Sabai Beach Bungalows next door. Making up for failing to pick us up on our arrival I suspect. Sabai Sabai is owned by a 40 something year old Englishman from Stanstead, named James & his (ex) Thai wife, Sarah.

      After completing the formalities, James took us to our 2 bedroomed sea view cottage, which had cost us just £126 for five nights. There is a saying that you get what you pay for & this was certainly the case in this instance. Our cottage was a 2 storey wooden shack with a bedroom on each floor. A very steep internal staircase connected the two. The cottage had no air conditioning, just a fan, no fridge and bedding, which although smelt clean was badly stained. If that wasn’t bad enough, we couldn’t get WiFi in our cottage. We were really going back to basics and this is just about as basic as Jackie is prepared to go.

      After dumping all our luggage, we headed out. We hadn’t left Sabai Sabai before we bumped into James’ mother who with her husband had been staying here for the last month & were staying for another 2 months. She chatted at us for about 20 minutes telling us that most of her stay had been in torrential rain & it had only turned nice a week ago. She also ranted about a boat that arrived on the beach, virtually outside her room, with a big digger & a pile of sand. Apparently they were digging a new reservoir somewhere behind Sabai Sabai.

      Jackie & I then walked down town to the Buddhist Temple on the pier & up to & personal with a golden Buddha on the hill. After the statutory photo, we took refuge from the sun in our ‘authentic’ restaurant for a couple of cold Changs.

      After stocking up on mosquito spray, we almost certainly will need it, we returned to Sabai Sabai, where we bumped into Jan & James sat on their veranda. Jan originates from Bury St. Edmunds & James from America. Jan & James have been living in Thailand for the last 2 years & Jan has been coming to Ko Phayam for the last 18 years. We had seen them out & about drinking in the bars & as expected they knew every resident farang & most of the island’s bar & restaurant staff. We chatted to them for about an hour before they had to leave to attend the birthday party of an alcoholic bar owner. They invited us to join them, but it was only 3pm so we said we would try & catch up with them later.

      We chilled under the shade of a palm tree until 5pm, when as warned we were attacked by mosquitoes. It was horrendous & despite being slathered in 3 coats of mossie spray an hour later my legs were on fire. Jackie also was being bitten in our cottage, but to make matters far worse she discovered that we had no hot water & she had to have a cold ‘refreshing’ shower. I didn’t hear the end of this for the rest of the night!

      At 6.30pm, we abandoned our new resort & sought solace down town. Our legs were as itchy as hell, so we took up residence at our usual table in ‘36’ & tried to numb the pain with ice cold Changs. We could hear the birthday party opposite, but neither of us were in the mood to deal with drunken ageing westerners.

      About an hour later, the extreme itchiness of my legs had subsided sufficiently for me to concentrate & we ordered dinner. We had planned to take a day off from spice, so Jackie ordered summer vegetable rolls and french fries, whilst I ordered pasta carbonara. It came as 3 plates of generous portions of loveliness.

      We returned to Sabai Sabai feeling much more relaxed, so we collected our iPads & did internet stuff in the bar area, with a cocktail to help us sleep! I had a ‘Mai Thai’ (when in Rome….) and Jackie had a ‘Boy From Devon’, not literally! We’d never heard of it either.

      We went to bed that night with some trepidation.

      Song of the Day: Mosquito Song by Queens of the Stone Age.
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    • Day 7 - Paddling in Calm Waters

      December 16, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      After a decent sleep, we had a hearty breakfast of omelette, toast, cereal & fruit. The Thais that had descended on the island the previous afternoon had all but disappeared and the beach was empty again.

      My planned activity for the morning was to paddle a kayak out to a rocky peninsula that juts out from the end of our beach. Unfortunately the tide was high and the water was way to choppy, we didn’t want to die trying.

      Instead we resumed our position at our private pool & took the occasional stroll up & down the deserted beach.

      Lunch consisted of a couple of Leo’s at a table & chairs in the the shade of a big leafy tree, which having now got my ear in, I’ve discovered is a favourite haunt for the hornbills. During lunch we booked our respective accommodation for Christmas and New Year. We are yet to work out how to get to them, because it seems that some of the bus services have stopped running on our intended moving dates. We don’t know whether this is to do with it being the Christmas period or Covid.

      After our liquid lunch, we decided (some might say ill-advisedly) to take a kayak out for a spin as the waves had subsided. We heaved it down the beach now at low tide & paddled out to the peninsula & back without incident.

      Yet again during the afternoon the beach & resort started to fill with new Thai tourists and the old ones returning from boat trips.

      We returned to our room when the sun sank below the trees & we both took a mandatory Day 6 Lateral Flow Test that had been provided to us by the Thai authorities at Phuket Airport. Both of our tests happily came back negative, but ridiculously the test results did not have a QR code or other means of recording or reporting the results. We took a photo of the result as evidence.

      That evening we decided to give ‘36’ a break & we returned to the ‘rustic’ restaurant, I now like to think of as ‘authentic’. Jackie had the crispy fried pork she ordered last time, but I had to eat & I had fried chicken with curry. It was not particularly cheap, but it was delicious & we will definitely be going back.

      Song of the Day: Die Trying by New Model Army.
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    • Day 5 - Easy Rider and a Technophobe

      December 14, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Still waking up too early & in fact my watch has informed me that I have had an average of just 3 hours 58 minutes sleep per night over the last week. Not nearly enough.

      Today we planned to hire a scooter & explore the island of Ko Phayam. As I was getting my bag ready for the day, I found at the bottom of my rucksack my SD card reader. Hurrah, I could now upload photos from my camera.

      Before breakfast, I had coffee on our veranda & chatted with our Thai neighbours who tipped me off that the island of Ko Chang was a good place to see lots of hornbills.

      At 9.00am we went for breakfast, which was included in our reservation, and had omelettes, toast & coffee. Certainly nothing to write home about.

      After breakfast, I visited the surly chunky transgender lady & enquired if she rented scooters. She did for 200 Baht per day. I knew that back in the town centre they were just 150 baht per day, but for speed & ease I decided to splash out on one of hers. As soon as I agreed, she rang the cheaper scooter company in town to deliver one of theirs to us. I had to wait 10 minutes for it to arrive and after I had paid the man, I saw him giving her a backhander of cash she stuffed into her tips jar. I was irritated, but then reminded myself it was just an extra £1 for this delivery service & they would also pick it up.

      After filling up with a bottle of fuel, we hit the dusty tracks on our new metallic blue 125cc Moove Urbanion. Our 1st stop was Aow Ko Kyu beach, which we had to walk down numerous steep leaf strewn steps to a rather underwhelming beach. We took a couple of photos and climbed back up to the bike.

      Next stop was the southern end of Aow Yai (Long Beach) which was a massive expanse of white sand. Despite there not being a single person on the beach, it had an inviting bar and restaurant. It was too soon after breakfast to imbibe but we vowed to return for a day. More photos were taken.

      We then negotiated our way round to the northern end of Aow Yai beach, where we located approximately 10 assorted persons most of whom were involved with a surf school. The waves were sufficiently high for proper surfing. I took some more photos.

      Next stop was Aow Kwang Peeb beach by accidentally taking a wrong turn. The road had come to an end, which required us to have to park up & walk the last 300 metres with monkeys crashing around in the treetops above. The beach was a cracker and appeared to be the private beach of Aow Kwang Peeb Resort which was deserted and apparently abandoned in a hurry. I went for a swim, whilst Jackie snooped around the derelict buildings including a bar with alcohol bottles on the shelves. She found paperwork including laundry receipts dating back to 1962. It made no sense to us. I took lots of photos of what truly felt like a ghost town.

      It was now lunchtime, so we headed to the final beach on the island, Aow Khao-Kwai (Buffalo Beach). There were no obvious paths to the beach so I gambled on one & drove through a series of bungalows down a steep path. When the path came to an abrupt stop, we abandoned the scooter & walked to the beach only for a uniformed Thai man to start shouting at me to move the scooter. Whoops.

      We continued to try to locate Buffalo Beach & came across an intriguing sign ‘Beautiful Rock by the Beach - Ko Phayam’s Top Attraction’. We followed it’s directions to the beach and encountered 2 tractors pulling trailers loaded with elderly Thai tourists. Luckily they were just coming away so again we had the beach to ourselves. The arches were nice (Not Arches National Park, Utah), but lent themselves as perfect frames for our photographs of each other.

      With some classic photos in the can, we set off for lunch and before we knew it we were back at Aow Mea Mai, having completed a full circuit of the island. We found a more ‘rustic’ restaurant overlooking the sea and ordered a well earned beer. Jackie ordered crispy pork & rice, whilst I ordered a spicy 🌶 🥭 mango salad. I had visions of plump juicy orange mango flesh laced with a sprinkling of chilli, but what I received was a large bowl of thinly sliced green mango & some grey scraps scattered through it. I was suspicious of the grey scraps so I gave one to my taster to check if I could eat it or not. Jackie declared it was a cashew nut, so I popped one in my mouth & swallowed it. I immediately started to wretch, when I came to the realisation that it was actually dried fish skin. Jackie is now trying to poison me!

      As a result we had to swap dinners. Jackie’s fried pork was very tasty if I didn’t look at it, because it was chunks of meat that were one third pork & two thirds fat! I think this was a step too ‘rustic’ for my sensitive palate!

      We returned to Nitiporn Resort around 3.30pm to discover that we were now the only people staying at the resort & that our room hadn’t been made. Jackie marched off to remonstrate with surly chunky transgender lady, who said she would get it sorted without word of an apology. We spent the remainder of the afternoon dozing & reading around our very own private pool.

      Whilst getting ready to go out to dinner, I attempted to upload my 51 fantastic photos taken that day from the camera SD card to my iPad. I selected them, then before I could stop myself I hit ‘delete’. After a lot of furious tapping on my iPad & ranting & swearing & googling, I had to resign myself to the fact that I had lost them for ever. Jackie didn’t mention it again that evening!

      Dinner was back at our favourite ‘36’ for Thai green curry & Tom Yum soup.

      Song of the Day: Ghost Town by The Specials
      Wishing (If I had a Photograph of You) by A Flock of Seagulls
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    • Day 18

      Sieben Stationen bis nach Hause

      February 19, 2020 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Heute ist als soweit, wir treten die Rückreise nach Hause an. Zuerst müssen aber noch einige Meilensteine zurückgelegt werden.
      Die erste Herausforderung war es mit dem gemietetem Roller, samt zwei großen Travel Rucksäcke, plus Handgepäck an, an den Pier zu kommen. Wie sich herausstelle war dies kein all zu großes Problem.
      Dann ging es mit dem Schnellboot weiter nach Ranong. Die Überfahrt dauerte knapp 45 Minuten bei etwas aufgewühlter See. Das Boot schlägt dabei wie ein hartes Brett mit lautem Getöse auf die See. Speedboot fahren sieht nur im Fernsehen gut aus. Im inneren zu Sitzen macht dabei nicht so eine Freude. Es ist laut, man sieht Nichts und wartet nur darauf, dass die Fahrt zu Ende geht.
      Von Pier ging es dann ca. 30 Minuten mit einem Taxi, welches sich als ein offener Pick Up entpuppte zum Flughafen Ranong. Der Flug nach Bangkok ist schnell erzählt. Hoch, runter, angekommen. Besser als 6-8 Stunden mit dem Bus von Ranong nach Bangkok zu fahren - aber sicherlich eine Alternative, wenn man mehr Zeit zum Reisen hat.
      Da unser Flieger erst gegen 23:45 Uhr von Suvarnabhumi Airport nach Frankfurt ging und wir schon 14 Uhr ins Bangkok Don Mueang gelandet waren, wollten wir noch ein wenig auf der Khao San und in der Soi Ram Butri schoppen und unseren Urlaub ausklingen lassen. Letztere Straße ist im weiteren Verlauf, sobald sie als parallel Straße zur Khao San endet, wirklich zum empfehlen. Hier gab es das letzte Chang bevor wir mit dem Taxi zum Airport und von dort nach Frankfurt ging. Von hier hieß es dann ab nach Hause
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    • Day 9

      Ko Phayan

      July 29, 2016 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Voller Erleichterung stellten wir morgens fest dass die sonne zurück gekehrt ist und so konnten wir endlich die Insel erkunden. Wir liehen uns ein Moped aus und fuhren den ganzen tag über die Insel durch tiefsten Dschungel vorbei an riesigen schlangen und lauten affenhorden. Doch es lohnte sich alles als wir endlich an den weissen großen und einsamen Sandstränden ankamen. Abends fuhren wir wieder zu einem verlassenen Strand doch als wir im Dunkeln zurück fuhren wurde uns bei den vielen Geräuschen etwas mulmig.. doch das erschreckende kam noch, in unserem Bungalow lauerte eine fette spinne die aber gottseidank schnell wieder verschwand. Das war ein abenteuerlicher aber toller tag!Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Khlong Ao Mae Mai, คลองอ่าวแม่ม่าย

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