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Europe 2019
  • Danielle and Co travels

Europe 2019

Ian and Danielle are heading off for 6 glorious weeks - leaving Angus in charge (questionable) of Coco, the house and himself! Read more
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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Allegory of the Hisyory, Industry and Commerce of Málaga (1870)
    The Dancer Carmen de Triana by José Moreno Carbonero (1932)The Fortified Walkway of La Coracha - offers a panoramic view of the Alcazaba before restorationAfter the Bullfight by José Denis Belgrano circa 1885-1890Girl in a Red Scarf by Casto Plasencia Y Maestro (1889)The Political Charlatan by Bernardo Ferrándiz Y Bádenes (1866) - nothing has changed, still relevantAcrobat - just reminded us of our grumpy waiterAnatomy of the Heart by Enrique Simonet Y Lobardo (1890)Oneiric Portrait of Fred Astaire by Juan Fernández Béjar (1982)Zoomed in on the smiling boy as friends often tease Ian about not smiling in photos

    Museum of Malaga - Art

    September 24, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The 19th century was one of the most significant periods in Málaga’s history. The booming economy, the rising bourgeoisie and urban planning reforms combined to forge its identity, and that of the future Museum of Málaga. In those years, the development of industry and trade facilitated the establishment of a liberal bourgeois class who, motivated by that material prosperity, began to show their interest in the arts and education. They created centres for learning and institutions like the School of Fine Arts and the Royal Academy of San Telmo, which soon replaced the church and nobility as the new patrons of art.

    Málaga underwent an unprecedented urban transformation as working-class neighbourhoods sprang up, the historic quarter was remodelled, and new venues of artistic enjoyment and entertainment were built, such as the Cervantes Theatre. The painter Bernardo Ferrándiz was hired to decorate the theatre’s interior. The great painting on the ceiling of the performance hall was to feature the port and railway station as symbols of Málaga’s enterprising spirit and progress. Industry, commerce and agriculture were also represented in this allegorical composition, which presents the city as a protector and patron of the fine arts.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Courtyard at Picasso MuseumPortrait of Lola (1894)Standing Woman with Hand on Hip (1908)Fruitbowl (1919)Reckining Bather (1931)Woman with Raised Arms (1936)Women in an Armchair (Françoise Gilot) - 1946Jacqueline Seated (1954)Musketeer with Sword (1972)

    Museum Wednesday - Picasso

    September 25, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    First stop today was the Picasso Museum, located about 10 minutes from our apartment. Here we saw the permanent exhibition, as well as the temporary exhibition of Alexander Calder and Picasso’s work. This only opened on Monday, so we were fortunate to see it. Malaga is the birthplace of Picasso, and so was always close to his heart. He wanted to ensure that his native city had access to some of his works.

    The displays in the galleries of the Palacio de Buenavista are designed to examine issues related to important aspects of Pablo Picasso’s body of work. Themes include the sense of origin, of roots, and of family and the importance in his work of those closest to him and everyday life. This collection encompasses almost eight decades of Picasso’s artistic output.

    Below are some significant works produced over much of Picasso’s lifetime.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler

    Museum Wednesday - Calder - Picasso

    September 25, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    In addition to the permanent exhibition, we were fortunate to see the temporary exhibition of Alexander Calder and Pablo Picasso’s work - this exhibition only opened two days ago. The exhibition includes more than 50 works - paintings, sculptures and drawings by each artist - created between 1912 and 1967; many have never been publicly shown before. The exhibition was curated by the respective grandsons of Calder and Picasso.

    While not friends, the artists admired each other’s work. From early on, critics compared them; their most fabled meeting took place at the Paris World’s Fair in 1937, when Calder’s Mercury Fountain, a circular pool featuring a mobile that vibrated from the motion caused by falling mercury, was installed near Guernica, the canvas on which Picasso chronicles the destruction of a Basque village by the Nazis. Both are haunting political statements about the Spanish Civil War.

    This exhibition illustrates the relationship between them through their work. The aim of the show is to highlight to the public that some of their works have extraordinary similarities.

    We were unable to take photographs in the exhibition although I did manage to sneak a couple. We particularly liked Calder’s hanging mobile sculptures (mobiles) and wire ‘sculptures’.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Multi-coloured Cube
    Walkway down to permanent exhibition done by D. Darko2nd Movement bu D. DarkoSpring, 20 March 1956 by Pablo PicassoLast Summer by Adam AdachLast Summer by Adam AdachGroup of 13 (Homage to Amnesty International) by Eva AeppliCharacters and birds in the night by Joan MiróFlock of Sheep by François-Xavier Lalanne

    Centre Pompidou Málaga

    September 25, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    On our trek up to Gibralfaro, we could see many buildings across Málaga - one of them looked like a multi-coloured cube. It turns out that this sits above the Centre Pompidou Malaga, with much of the Museum being underground. This museum, which is the first branch of the Centre Pompidou outside France, invites audiences to experience modern and contemporary art at the crossroads of artistic disciplines. The artworks on show here are from the 20th and 21st centuries, including painting, sculpture, film, drawings, photographs, video, architecture and design.

    I have to admit that some of the “art” on display I just don’t get or like. That is the great thing about art, as long as it elicits emotion then the artist has been successful. The Pompidou Centre is a lovely modern space with a broad range of art on show. Below are some of the pieces I connected with in the main exhibition.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Putney Winter Heart no. 3HarvestForefront - I'm Keeping his Arms Warm (2013) The Prince (2008)Blue Valley (The Mead of Poetry) 1987Venus and Tools

    Jim Dine - Exhibition @ Pompidou Málaga

    September 25, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The temporary exhibition was a collection of work donated to the Musée National d’art Moderne (Paris) by Jim Dine in 2017. The collection covers the period 1961 to 2016, and includes paintings and sculptures serving as a record of the artist’s ongoing autobiographical explorations, via his recurrent motifs - tools, hearts, bathrobes, Venuses and Pinocchios. Included in the exhibition are some examples of his poetry which he has written on the walls with charcoal, to enhance the plastic and symbolic qualities of his work.

    I really enjoyed this exhibition, especially the hearts and Pinocchios.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    The Front of Alexso
    A bit of funVermouth from Malaga served on the rocksCheersBread, oil and salt - together they taste like fried eggsBread rolls - warm and deliciousChimichurri with mint smokeMiscuit FoieCrisp bread to have with miscuit foieGazpacho

    Tasting menu at Alexso

    September 25, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    We had a wonderful last dinner at Restaurante Alexso, located a stones throw from our apartment. It was recommended to us by our Airbnb hosts, who said it was the best restaurant in a Malaga and one of the best in Spain. Words cannot do justice to the tasting menu we had. It consisted of 11 courses, four appetisers, three starters, fish and meat dish, pre-dessert and dessert. Each dish was paired with fabulous wines, and a bonus was what seemed like unlimited refills of a rosé cava at the end of the meal for me! It did mean that I overindulged on the drinking a bit, but it doesn’t happen very often these days.

    After an edible welcome note, we started with a bread that you dip into oil and salt that tasted exactly like fried eggs. We were also served three bread rolls - the first was curry and raisins, the next chorizo, and the final one was made with squid ink - all were excellent, but we both loved the chorizo ones the most, they were divine.

    Then we had chimichurri with mint smoke. This was followed by Miscuit Foie (Gras) with Apricot Jam, Crunchy Banana and Dried Kiwi - prepared at Alexso with great love and respect. We then had Portrait de Naranja, served cold with Cod Tartare and Liquid Green Olives - it was a gazpacho flavoured with oranges, and it was fabulous

    Next was Ceviche of Crunchy Lobster and Deep-Water Rose Shrimps, served on a square of fried wonton wrapper, with thin salt-bush bits sticking up, coriander cream and spherules of lemon - this was a flavour bomb, and presented beautifully. Last of the appetisers was Scallops with Broccoli, Spiced Tomato Sauce, Slivers of Parmesan and Olive Oil flavoured with Iberian Charcuterie. OMG.

    The fish dish was Spicy Red Tuna with Wakame Hummus, and Pearls of Ginger and Wasabi - divine. The meat dish was Iberian Pork Shoulder Steak with Apple Chutney and Wild Asparagus - delicious. We then had to eat an electric flower to cleanse our palate - it is actually called Acmella oleracea, and other common names include -toothache plant, Sichuan Buttons, buzz buttons, tingflowers and electric daisy. We were instructed to chew the flower after completing our meat course - it really does start your whole mouth and tongue buzzing, and you generate a lot of saliva that then assists with the cleansing of your palate. I couldn’t say I enjoyed the experience, but it is certainly one I’ll remember - my mouth and palate was very clean afterwards.

    We were now ready for our pre-dessert, which I would call a dessert - a deconstructed Chocolate Brownie (served warm) with Vanilla Ice Cream. It was delicious and we could have eaten 10 servings of this; the servings were small, maybe a mouthful or two.

    Dessert was Salmon Sandwich with Chips and Ketchup - that was what it looked like, but it was sweet. The sandwich was like a pancake or sponge, and the “salmon” was cream cheese and carrot, the ketchup was strawberry jam but the colour of ketchup, and the chips were grilled pineapple - it was delicious but did kind of mess with your mind, as what it looked like is not what it tasted like, plus we had consumed much alcohol by then. We were there for over 3 hours - first to arrive and last to leave. We also met the chef, who is also the owner, and gave him feedback on how much we enjoyed the experience. He was right pleased. Our waiter, and wine matcher, was a very friendly Argentinian guy, who told us how pleased he was with how Australia was doing in the World Cup.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler

    Setenil de Las Bodegas

    September 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Our driver José collected us from our apartment in Malaga to take us to our next destination, Ronda via Setenil de Las Bodegas. Jose called this town the entree, with Ronda being the main. We decided to get a driver to and from Ronda as there didn’t seem to be busses available or operating on Sunday morning when we needed to get to Malaga airport for our flight to Lisbon.

    We left Malaga about 10.30 and drove through Río Las Cañas, Carratraca, Ardales, Teba, Cuevas Del Becerro, Arroyo de Serrano and Arriate and, obviously Sentinel de Las Bodegas, on our way to Ronda. We had beautiful scenery along the way, but Setenil de Las Bodegas took it up a notch.

    It is a beautiful white town perched into and amongst the rocky terrain. José dropped us off here for an hour, so we just wandered around exploring this lovely town, and climbed lots of steps to get some great views across the town. Definitely worth a visit. Again, we have had lovely weather - beautiful blue sky and mid to high 20’s.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Our Local
    Enjoying a cold beer on this warm dayNo rosé so I switched to a dry whiteOur street for the next few daysOur front door

    Ronda

    September 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We arrived in Ronda around 1.30pm, and José gave us a quick tour around the city pointing out some of the key landmarks and recommending a couple of restaurants. He then dropped us off in our street which is right near the bridge (Puente Nuevo), the centre of all the action. As we were a bit early, and the apartment was still being cleaned, we walked up the street to a local tapas bar and decided to have some lunch - it turned out to be a great decision, as the food was fabulous, the wine and beer cold, and the two young guys who ran it really friendly.

    Our apartment was ready by 2pm, but as we were having fun trying a range of tapas, we weren’t in such a hurry and, as we only had to walk about 25 meters down the road, there was no rush.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    View from our apartment during the day
    More views across the gorgeLounge and dining roomBedroomKitchenBathroomEntryParagliding over the gorge and bridgeSunset approachingNight view of the bridge

    Ronda apartment

    September 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We got into our apartment, and were slightly overwhelmed by the view, which we have from nearly every room. We were pretty happy with the apartment. It is spacious and comfortable, and has great views. Also, it is located in the heart of the old town, where all the action is.Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Other side of the gorge looking back to our apartment
    Parador hotel - Marigold in full bloomOther side of the Puente Nuevo (bridge)El Toro outside the bullringAlameda Del TajoPlaza del SocorroIce cream in the Plaza de EspañaIce cream in the Plaza de España

    Exploring Ronda

    September 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Once we had unpacked and put on some washing, we set off to explore the town of Ronda. We walked across the Puente Nuevo (bridge), which was very crowded with tour groups. We were able to locate our apartment from the other side of the gorge quite easily. We decided to follow a walking path that went behind the Parador Hotel, and took us around past the Plaza de Toro (Bull Ring) and the Alameda Del Tajo, a lovely shaded square. We also passed the Plaza de la Merced, and then wound our way through the narrow streets, coming across the Plaza Del Socorro which was full of cafes and restaurants. As it was warm, we went in search of ice cream, which we finally located at Plaza de España - I had lemon, strawberry and mandarin sorbet, which was delicious. Ian chose an ice cream of nuts and caramel we think!

    We were trying to find a supermarket so we could get some milk - when Ian asked the guy in the ice cream shop, he offered to sell us a bottle which was very kind. He also explained that there was a supermarket express down a street we had walked - we hadn’t noticed, as our focus had been on locating ice cream! We also have a lovely etching gallery in our street which had some beautiful pieces, we will return tomorrow to purchase one.

    We headed back to our apartment to relax and watch the sun set over the bridge and gorge, before heading out for dinner at our local tapas bar. I am loving this town, it is really something special.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    La Taberna De Antonio
    Ian having so e local red with dinnerDelicious plate of tomatoesPadron Peppers served with quail eggs and fried jamonMore tapasNice door I spottedPuente Nuevo all alight

    Dinner in Ronda

    September 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    We headed out for dinner at 8.30pm, which is still early by Spanish standards. We returned to the same Tapas bar up the street, just 20 metres from our apartment. We tried some new dishes, but also had some of the same dishes we tried at lunch. We sat outside and started chatting to an Irish couple at the next table - they had been in Ronda for several days, and so they gave us some recommendations of things to do and see.

    For dinner we had a large plate of sliced tomatoes (from their Grandad’s garden), a plate of deep fried pardon peppers, and mini hamburgers - which came with Brie and caramelised onion - and were delicious. We also had a couple of other small things - beef with salsa verde, and mushrooms which were also great. We also had several glasses of wine to accompany the meal.

    After dinner, we went for a walk down to the old bridge, but it was pretty dark so we decided to return to the apartment which was all uphill! All this walking is doing my legs and calf muscles a world of good. When we got back home, we found the Bridge lights were on - the Bridge looks pretty impressive lit up.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Looking for the walkway
    Plaza Maria AuxiliadoraStarting the descent into the gorgeNearly under Puente Nuevo (new bridge which is about 300+ years old)The WaterfallSelfie with the BridgeBridge and WaterfallThe Bridge againHot Ait BalloonCoffee time

    Full day in Ronda - part 1

    September 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We headed out about 9.30 this morning. First we went to the Tourist Information Centre to find out where the path to the bottom of the gorge was, but they don’t open till 10am, so we just decided to cross the Bridge and find our own way there. Turns out it wasn’t too difficult, and it was well sign posted. We found the entrance to the walkway off Plaza Maria Auxiliadora, and followed it down on the western side of the gorge. We also went off the main path onto a side branch that was less well maintained, and this path that took us down until we were nearly under the bridge. It also afforded great views of the waterfall.

    We headed back up to the main walkway, and continued to descend into the gorge until we were in the best spot to get a great shot of the waterfall and bridge. Most of this walk was done in the shade, and while the temperatures were low 20’s. We then started the climb back up. On the way we saw some school kids being taken up in a tethered hot air balloon in the valley below, the balloon was getting up to about 50 to 60 metres, and then descending again to take up another group of students, who all seemed to be enjoying the ride immensely.

    After our epic walk into the gorge and back again we had a coffee and a bit of a rest. We then decided to just wander the streets and see what we encountered.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler

    Museum of Ronda

    September 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The first thing we encountered as we wandered the beautiful narrow streets of Ronda was their Museum, which is housed in a most beautiful building that used to be a palace - Palacio De Mondragón - which has been beautifully maintained. Turns out Friday 27 September was “World Tourism Day”, so we had free entry into the museum. There was an exhibition upstairs that took you through the history of Ronda and about the different groups that invaded, overthrew or built particular aspects of the city. What I was most interested in was the architecture and design of the palace, including the courtyards, fountains and mosaic work. The views across the valley weren’t too shabby either.Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler

    Roaming around Ronda

    September 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We headed off from the Museum of Ronda, and started wandering the streets again till we found the Plaza Duquesne de Parcent, which had another huge church - Iglesia de Santa Maria la Mayor - a lovely garden and the Town Hall. We continued to wander past lovely houses and patios and doors.Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Self Portrait (1972)
    Peinado and Picasso had a special friendshipNude (1928)Still life of coffee pot and pomegranates (1970)Portrait of a sitting lady (1961)Portrait of Inger (1944)Musketeer by Pablo Ruiz Picasso (1969)Don Quixote (1947)Four Women (1971)Nude lying down (1968)

    Museo of Joaquín Peinado

    September 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    This was the next museum we came across, and again entry was free. Coincidentally he was born in a house about six doors up from where we are staying.

     Joaquín Ruiz-Peinado Vallejo was born in Ronda on 19 July 1898. He showed early talent, resulting in his enrolment in 1918 at the San Fernando’s College of Fine Arts. He obtained a scholarship for three years to study in the Santa María de el Paular Monastery (1921-1923). Once he finished his studies in 1923 he went to Paris, where he settled. He soon entered the Parisian artistic world and came to form part of the Escuela Española de París (Spanish School of Paris), together with other Spanish artists such as Manuel Ángeles Ortiz, Hernando Viñes, Francisco Bores, Pancho Cossío and Picasso (with whom he shared a special friendship).

    Meanwhile, he maintained contact with his friends back in Spain, one of them being Federico García Lorca, who met Peinado in Málaga in 1918, and also Francisco García Lorca, who was a good friend of his. He kept contributing to the Spanish artistic world, participating in the mythical Society of Iberian Artists’ First Exhibition, celebrated in 1925, and in José María Hinojosa’s La flor de California. Málaga’s Provincial Council gave him and José Moreno Villa an arts award in 1929 at the Regional Exhibition of Modern Art, celebrated in Casa de los Tiros, Granada. He also got involved in Scenic Arts, participating in Un Perro Andaluz (1929), in his friend Buñuel’s La Edad de Oro (1930), and, as a scenographer and an extra, in Carmen de Feyder (1925). In 1926 he participated in the performance of El retablo de Maese Pedro de Falla in Amsterdam, alongside Buñuel, Cossío, Viñes, and Ángeles Ortiz.

    His artistic trajectory gave him a prominent position in the Escuela de París: his merits as an artist led him to hold the post of director and vice-president of the Sección de Pintura de la Unión de Intelectuales Españoles (Painting Art Section of the Spanish Union of Scholars). He was also nominated by UNESCO as delegate for the Sección de Pintores Españoles de la Escuela de París (Spanish Painters Section, School of Paris).

    He organized part of the 1946 exhibition Art in Republican Spain, Spanish artists from Escuela de París, held in Prague. From this moment on, both individual and collective international exhibitions became frequent. He was regarded as part of the best French art producers of the time. 1945 was also a time when he developed a personal style which would remain with him forever: alternating with geometric abstract experiments, he highlighted the importance of the model, the accuracy of the drawing, the rationalization of the representation, and the use of watercolour. An exhibition organized by the State Office of Fine Arts brought him back to Spain in 1969.

    Peinado is a central piece in the revision of contemporary Spanish art and the Escuela de París. His work is also important in the exploration of plastic ways of communication, such as neo-Cubism, Lyrical Figuration or Geometric Abstraction.

    He died in Paris on 13 February 1975. I really enjoyed the exhibition which included a room dedicated to Picasso.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler

    Lunch time in Ronda

    September 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After a morning of climbing, walking and exploring, we decided it was time for a bocadillo (sandwich) and a non alcoholic drink. We found this little Bodega called Casa Don Curro that was like an Aladdin’s cave of wine, cheese, charcuterie and other delicious treasures. It was tiny with only two small tables and we grabbed the free one. As soon as we entered the store we were offered some cheese to taste which was delicious so my bocadillo was cheese and tomato and Ian had jamon and cheese. It was one of the most devious sandwiches I have had. We decided not to have any wine as there was still a bit of walking and exploring to do after lunch. The owner was very friendly and encouraged us to try a pastry from Ronda when we had our coffee. Left the Bodega fully satisfied and reenergised to take on what the rest of the day had to offer.Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Exterior of the house
    Decoration on the street side of the houseThe gardensThe gardensThe DescentSo many stairs1Reaching the bottomViews of the gorge relevted on the waterRelaxing with a cold beerTerraza Chill Out Rey Moro

    Casa Del Rey Moro

    September 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We were looking for the Arab Bath house, and came upon this place on the way. As it is privately owned, we had to pay an entry fee, but it was the only one of the day, and it was worth it. The gardens have been beautifully restored and maintained. They were designed for the Duchess by Jean-Claude Nicolas Forestier in 1912 (the French architect’s first recognised work in Spain). The Neo-Mudejar style house, an amalgamation of several 18th century homes conceived by the Duchess of Parcent is in disrepair, and currently undergoing restoration.

    Last but not least, there is the Nasrid era Water Mine, which is one of the best conserved examples in Spain. It is below the Gardens - you have to descend in excess of 200 stairs (equivalent to a 20 storey building). It is dark, cool and damp. There are a number of areas where the stairs are spiral formation and it becomes wetter the further you descend. Many of the steps were very big, which is difficult for a person of my short stature, but I managed and it was well worth the effort to see the view of the gorge where the water source is.

    We then had to climb back up - I thought it would be more difficult than it was, and I was surprised how quickly we got back up. After such strenuous work we decided to reward ourselves with a drink and a bit of a relax at Terraza Chill Out Rey Moro, a lovely bar with great views and well shaded.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler

    Baños Arabes (The Arab Baths)

    September 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    These baths were built in the 11th or 12th centuries. Their functioning parts vanished centuries ago, but the underground chambers have been partly renovated. Ronda’s Arab Baths are similar to Roman baths, except that steam was used to sweat out pollutants from the body, rather than soaking in hot water, as the Romans used to do. Religious traditions were important to he Moors of Spain we, so A Mosque was located next to the baths. The idea was that the people visiting the Baths would purify and cleanse their bodies, before entering the Mosque to purify their souls.

    The main entrance to the complex overlooks the roof of Arab Baths building, and you can see a number of short humps embedded in the roof. These are the star shaped skylights which let the light in. It looks quite cool when you are inside. The baths were built partially underground to better control the temperature of the building. Hot fires in the furnace room heated water coming from an aqueduct, and the hot steam was then “piped” under the floor of the rooms in terracotta channels (atanores), and then exited from chimneys located before it reached the cold rooms.

    The first section of the Baths was the changing room (the al-bayt al-maslaj). It had a central pool about two and a half metres across, with a series of brick arches surrounding it. The pool itself was a drinking fountain, and not a bath as we might think. Around the edges of this room were wooden benches for chatting and socialising, and against the back wall a series of screens that formed changing rooms. There was also a cold room (al-bayt al-barid), where people could relax and cool down before entering the warm and hot rooms. Part of the tradition of these baths was to spend several hours here, and cleansing the body several times over.

    Next was the warm room (al-bayt al-wastami), which was where people could relax and enjoy a massage, be pampered with perfumes, or sit in a pool of slightly warm water. This room was warm but not steamy. Mats and cushions were available to use, as well as wooden benches around the walls, and several tables for massage and therapeutic treatments by trained slaves were situated next to some of the columns. The hot room (al-bayt al-sajun), was the last room. This room has a pool at one end where water from the aqueduct was splashed over the hot floor creating a very humid and steamy atmosphere in the room.    Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    Arch leading to the Puente Viejo
    Crossing the bridgeView of the bridge from the other sideAnother view of the bridgeBloody stairs!More stairsLovely house on the way upMore stairsAnd more stairsTranslates to street of stairs which was very apt

    Siesta time!

    September 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After we finished exploring the Arab Baths, we started the trek back to our apartment and, of course, we had a mountain of stairs to climb and it was very sunny and hot. We first crossed the Puente Viejo, which is the oldest of the 3 bridges that span the 120 metre deep chasm that carries the Guadalevín River and divides the city. It was built in 1616 and it currently is only available to pedestrians. Once over the bridge - which do have lovely views - we started to climb the stairs in the Jardines de Cueñca towards our apartment. There were several spots to walk down to the gorge to see views of the Puente Nuevo, but I was over it all, and just wanted to get back to he apartment for a cool drink and rest. In the evening we again just popped down to our local tapas bar for a quick meal and a glass of wine, as we want a fairly early night as we have the bike tour tomorrow morning.Read more

  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2019Traveler
    With our E Bikes that were named after a wine variety
    Neil explaining some of the history of El Gastor that is Chriss in the foregroundEl Gastor ChurchEl GastorSteep street which was full of potted plants, shrubs and flowersLocal pooch greeting usView from the top of the streetEl Gastor in the backgroundSpanish CountrysideWhite Village of Montecorto

    Wine and Tapas Tour by E-Bike

    September 28, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We were picked up by Neil and Chriss at 9am this morning, and driven out to their place to begin our adventure - they have a little white cottage about 2 kms out of the village of El Gastor, located about 30 kms north-west of Ronda. Neil is a chef who is originally from the UK, and Chriss is a travel agent from NZ. They live for 9 months of the year in NZ, and spend the other 3 months (July to September) in Spain. This is their first season of running this tour, and we were their last group for this year, as they will be heading back to NZ in about 4 weeks via Portugal and Vietnam. They are scouting out opportunities in Southern Portugal to run similar tours for 3 months, as they want to spend 6 months in Europe each year (wouldn’t we all!).

    While Neil went to collect the three other people who were also doing the bike ride, Ian and I had a go at mastering the E Bike and, guess what, it is just like riding a bike, but with a magic button that gives you assistance up steep inclines. This was was great, as it turned out there were several inclines that went for quite a way. Overall, we ended up riding about 30 kms.

    The rest of our group was an American family who live in Portugal - Eric, his wife Stephanie and son Ryland - it was Stephanie’s birthday, and she had wanted a family trip to Ronda and a unique experience like this one. She also made a deal with her teenage son Ryland that he wouldn’t use his phone except for taking photos! They were a really nice family with a similar sense of humour to us, which was great. Turns out they were staying in the same street as us in Ronda - we were 14 and they were 18 - in fact later that evening we were on our balcony, and could chat to Eric standing on his!

    Anyway, back to the day of biking. We left Chriss and Neil’s place, with Chriss leading us on the bikes and Neil following in the van as support crew. We stopped about a kilometre down the hill to check we were all doing ok, and take in the beautiful scenery of the valley and reservoir below. We then had a 2 kilometre ride into El Gastor (elevation 520 metres and population 1,726), a lovely “white village”. This was their local village, and famous for being both the birthplace and the hide-out for the bandit José María “El Tempranillo”. It also had one of the most beautiful narrow steep streets, with beautiful plants all the way up. We walked to the top of the street to get some fabulous views of the village and beyond. Turns out we were the first group to walk to the top, which we all thought was weird, as it wasn’t that hard to walk up and it was worth it for the views. Later on Neil told us that this day had a number of “firsts” for them, including us being their first Aussies.

    We left El Gastor, and had another stop on the outskirts of town to get some photos and a delicious snack of watermelon and fig skewers, and water top ups. We then proceeded for about 6 kilometres through beautiful countryside barely seeing a car, although we did pass a number of cyclists (real ones wearing lycra and on road bikes) who gave us the special nod you apparently get as a cyclist. There wasn’t anything too steep to ride up during this leg, and I now had the gears and electric-assist options down pat. We rode through the Olvera area which is famous for producing top notch olives and olive oil, and we saw thousands of olive trees from newly planted ones to big old and gnarled trees that must have been there for a long time.

    We stopped in El Jaral, at what I would describe as a Spanish ‘truck and farmer’ stop, for some tapas and wine. Vento Los Villalones is where all the local farmers come to eat, and I can understand why - the food was fabulous. We had a glass of wine served with a plate of tapas which included Gazpacho, skewered prawns, a stuffed mushroom and salad, all of which was delicious. The group got to know each other a bit better during this stop, and there was no shortage of conversation and laughter. Even Ryland seemed to be enjoying himself! The family had been living in Portugal for 4 years and loved it. They are in the Algarve region, which is on the beach in Southern most area of Portugal, and live in a small fishing village - they had to be near the coast. Stephanie has always been near the ocean, and Eric used to be a life saver in LA - a real “Baywatch” lifesaver.

    We left El Jaral, and now had a long ride with a big climb at the start, and then the rest mostly down hill. This was the bit I was most nervous about, but with some tips from Neil I was able to make it without having to stop at all. We had a brief stop during this section for a drink and to admire the view, before then making our way to Montecorto, another picturesque white village. We had a steep climb up to the top of the village over cobblestones; the steepness was fine, but the cobblestones made it more of a challenge.

    The town has a free water supply that comes up through an artesian basin. There is the sound of running water through the town and it is safe to drink as it gets filtered as it is passes up through the rocks. We took some photos, and then had a steep descent into the centre of town over cobblestones, which is probably the most difficult or scary part of the whole day for me! Some facts about Montecorto:- it is an autonomous community of Andalusia, it separated from Ronda in 2014, has a population of about 600, and has an elevation of 500 metres, . It also has its own flag and coat of arms.

    The next section of the ride included some riding on a more major and busy road, and so I decided not to ride this section and to get in the support car with Neil, a wise decision on my part as there was a pretty steep incline just at the end of the ride and it was getting pretty warm. So I think I rode about 27kms of the 30 km ride, which I am very proud of.    Read more

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