A Glacial Place
5 de dezembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Franz Josef Glacier, West Coast, New Zealand
Thursday, December 5, 2013
Moving day is always bitter sweet, leaving something we have come to love in such a short time and the anticipation of something new on the horizon. However, that is the name of the game on this trip so we set off towards the West Coast in bright sunshine. We followed the beautiful Lake Wanaka for some distance. The water was so clear and still, you could see the reflection of mountains and sky in the surface. Lake Hawea followed and we made our way inexorably towards the dramatic Haast Pass, which takes one over the divide and on to the West Coast. It was rainforest all the way, beautiful, but quite oppressive after 200 kms. We stopped at Bruce Bay which was stunning. Great rollers crashing on to the beach, fringed with huge phormiums and a graveyard full of driftwood scattered all along the beach. I was mesmerised. It was a flower arrangers dream. A pile of stones and small pieces of ocean bleached wood had been piled on the edge of the beach. Visitors had inscribed their names and a message on the individual pieces. It was actually quite moving to read some of them. One almost felt as if one was peering uninvited into a discarded letter.
The road wound slowly on into the Westland National Park and the mountains rose higher all around, cloud thickened and a little rain started to fall. There is scant settlement and even with modern roads it must be an isolating life. However, you are surrounded by immense natural beauty, so plentiful, it is difficult to know where to look next, which must be a constant source of joy. We trundled through the small village serving Fox glacier, stopping briefly, but knowing we needed to press on to Franz Josef, our home for the next two nights. It is slightly larger than its Fox cousin, but similarly serves it's famous glacier that so many people come to gaze on. We checked in to the Helicopter Line office and confirmed our planned trip for tomorrow, before finding our hotel and a cup of tea, though not necessarily in that order. Supper was taken at Annie Mays, within walking distance and we sat watching the constantly changing cloudscape over the peaks. The pattern was never the same at any one minute. It came on to rain once more and the most beautiful double rainbow appeared, so vivid, it had everyone running outside exclaiming in wonder. I am so looking forward to tomorrow and will just have to hope for half decent weather. Cross your fingers for us!Leia mais
Jetscape
4 de dezembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Wanaka, Otago, New Zealand
Wednesday, December 4, 2013
The day dawned clear, sunny and bright and we decided it was the perfect opportunity to sample a Kiwi invention of some renown, namely the Jet Boat. Developed by Sir Bill Hamilton it is perfect for the shallow draft of many New Zealand rivers and is the vehicle of choice for R&R on the many lakes and rivers here down South. We chose Wanaka River Journeys as it was more than just a jet boat for sheer speed. James, our driver took us around Lake Wanaka ( 6th largest lake in the South Island ) and then up the Matukituki river, deep into Mt Aspiring National Park, a world heritage site. It was a fascinating journey up the braided river, with nesting gulls and oyster catchers lining its banks and all the time the great mountain peaks loom over one. The water sparkled bright turquoise, with all the glacial silt being carried away from the many glaciers that are a permanent feature of the park and at times there was scarcely 3ins of water under the boat. It was so clear you could see every pebble on the river bed, even if they did seem a blur at the speeds we were travelling. Periodically, James would draw a circle in the air, left or right, which would indicate a 360 degree spin and these became wilder as the morning drew on. Glacial Water spray was involved! After about 30 mins a helicopter landed by the river and Reg, Geraldine and I climbed aboard for a closer look at the peaks. Peter decided that he needed to be available to bury us all and remained with the boat! It was an amazing flight. Up and up we climbed, over the arretes, until the pilot very gently put us down on what seemed to me to be a very tiny ledge of snow some 7000 metres up. We were literally amongst the peaks and it was so clear and sharp we could see for miles. Mountain range after mountain range, glacier after glacier and we were standing on 20 mtrs of compacted snow, just trying to take it all in Over 10 mtrs of precipitation falls in these mountains per annum and it can take one flake of snow falling on the glacier over 10 years to appear as melt water from the terminal end of the glacier, depending on the conditions. Geraldine & I had never flown in a helicopter before and it was quite unlike my expectations. Smoother, with little impression of fast movement, hovering was the overall impression. We flew down to catch up with the jet boat that was by now at the head of the Matukituki river and we landed so gently as to be hardly aware of doing so. I'm not sure, but I thought I caught a glimpse of resignation in PL's eyes, no doubt calculating the lost life insurance!! There followed a bush walk through the native beech forest. Taller straighter and with much smaller leaves that in the UK, these giants cling to life in very shallow soils, sometimes no more the 6 ins deep. Sheep and cattle graze and are farmed by the Aspinall family who have owned at enormous station here for over 100 yrs. They are 4th generation farmers here in the valley. Hardy and self sufficient would describe their stock and themselves I guess! All around, are sites used for the filming of The Lord of the Rings and just arranging delivery of all the equipment involved must have been a logistical nightmare to say the least. The return journey was glorious and quicker and we were all soaked at the end, but then that is the name of the game. It was a fantastic trip, admittedly in perfect weather conditions and we saw things that would have been impossible in any other way.
We were all glad of lunch on our return and decided to walk to a nearby winery for our afternoon entertainment. It took about 20 mins along the shores of the lake and has to be the most beautifully set vineyard in NZ. The wines were not half bad either. We take our 'grape escape' very seriously as you see. I will include the odd picture for you to see.
An interesting post script, that may amuse you. We were talking to an English couple walking back and they asked G&R where they were from and when they heard the words Berry Pomeroy, it transpired that their daughter used to live in the village and they had I fact stayed at Berry Farm for their Granddaughters christening. Yet again, small world or what!
A great day and tomorrow we move on to Franz Josef. I expect the weather to break, but then we can't complain. It has been 28 & 30 degrees the last two days. How lucky are we?!Leia mais
Wonderful Wanaka
2 de dezembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Wanaka, Otago, New Zealand
Tuesday, December 3, 2013
We thought Queenstown was pretty special, but Wanaka has it hands down. The drive takes about an hour and we took the scenic route, up and over the Crown Ranges. We climbed and climbed, giving fantastic views over The Remarkables (so named because of the mountains propensity to change colour according to the light and time of day), Queenstown and Lake Wakatupi. When it seemed that we would soon be up in the snow field the road evened out and we found ourselves in an alpine valley. It was really lovely. The hillsides are clothed with tussock grass, giving a textural quality to the landscape. It looks like someone has taken a giant icing gun and decorated the hillsides with closely packed beige icing dots! A stream runs along the valley floor and yet again lupins abound, interspersed with the wild dog rose and broom. It is a sight to behold. We stopped for coffee in Cardrona, another gold mining settlement, that is still tiny and has retained some of its original buildings from that era. The Cardrona Hotel which was the only spot for refreshment, was like something out of a bygone era decoratively, although perfectly adapted for modern expectations. We drank our coffee out in the garden on a gloriously sunny morning. The roses were in full cry. My word can they grow roses out here.
Gradually Lake Wanaka came into view. The town of Wanaka is a smaller version of Queenstown. Set beautifully on the vivid blue Lake Wanaka with Mt Aspiring National Park in the background, It is simply stunning and less commercial than its big brother.
According to the locals, it is how Queenstown used to be 20 yrs ago and they are determined to avoid the trap of over commercialisation. We'll see, it is a difficult trap to escape from.
Our home for the next two days is the Edgewater Resort and our studios have a fabulous view of the Lake and the snow capped peaks. It is just overwhelming. We drove around the Lake this afternoon stopping frequently to admire the views. It was so hot and sunny as to be unbelievable after the arrival in Te Anau not that many days ago. This is how the South Island is apparently, like the UK, the weather is unpredictable and can turn on a sixpence! I will upload some photos to whet the appetite and talking of appetite, I'd better change for supper. Italian tonight. Ciao!
PS. What an Italian! I don't think we've eaten better Italian outside of Italy. Peter & I had gnocchi with braised beef cheeks and pecorino, plus an authentic tiramisu to follow. Almost as good as Emma's according to Reg. If you're in Wanaka, Francesca's is the place and book if you want a table.
PPS. Richard, there was rabbit on the menu, you would have loved it!Leia mais
The Adventure Capital of the World
2 de dezembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Queenstown, Otago, New Zealand
Monday, December 2, 2013
It has been a fabulous day, for a bungee jump. Not a cloud in the sky and clear blue water to jump into. What could be better? Well, I can think of several things in truth, but having seen the Queenstown bridge in question, Matthew, I take my hat off to you and anything else you care to name, providing I don't have to jump! As some of you will know, our son Matt made the leap when he was here 10 years ago and we have the certificate and video to prove it.
We were naturally curious to see the spot and arrived mid morning. It was all so casual, no pomp or fanfare. The victims wandered to the jumping point high on the bridge spanning an enormous river filled canyon and were harnessed up with admirable sang froid. They are then talked at by the guys running the show and are counted down, three, two, one, a wave at the camera and that step into the abyss. Some like Matt stepped straight off with no hesitation, some needed persuasion and one poor soul just couldn't do it. We felt so sorry for him, it was actually awful to watch. He was given three countdowns before being unharnessed - no refunds! Reg was really keen to have a go, but was sharply vetoed by Geraldine and Peter was just quiet and contemplative. Suddenly, he made up his mind he was going to do it and before I could stop him he'd paid and was off bristling with determination. He was given a red top and a black helmet, harnessed up and the next thing we knew was dangling from the rope, skimming the water. He was euphoric and I called him everything under the sun. There are pictures!
It has taken me all day to recover from the shock and a large glass of wine and some retail therapy were definitely on the cards. We visited the tiny hamlet of Arrowtown for the purpose, which provided all we could wish for. It is almost Wild West in appearance, but prettier, starting life as a Gold rush settlement in the 1850s. It largely consists of a single Main Street, the buildings are wooden clapperboard style, with lots of small individual shops. Several hundred dollars later Geraldine and I were starting to recover. There's nothing like a good spend up to ease the anxiety!
More wine was required for such a momentous day and so we headed off into the Gibbston Valley for some boutique tastings. It is a gorgeous valley, surrounded by mountains and filled to capacity with small specialist wineries. The oldest was founded in 1982, so everything is extremely young by European standards. Our favourite was Peregrine, where we could in truth have bought all we tried. Here, in Gibbston Valley you are talking hand picked small volume specialties. There are not the vast machine picked hectares of the Marlborough Area. The nights are still cold and an alarm will go off if the air temperature drops towards frost point. The unlucky soul on duty will have to jump out of bed and put various prevention measures into operation. Great! This has happened several nights in the last week. Who would be a vintner?!
Displayed in the ladies loo was the following quotation which struck a chord:
'Wine is Sunlight, held together by Water!' Galileo Gallilei. Some things don't change.
The day finished with supper on Queenstown waterfront before the setting sun and our stay in the adventure capital of the world is almost over.
I have only one more thing to add ........ If you believe Peter jumped off anything higher than a stool, you're a bigger fool than I took you for!!
Night all!Leia mais
Queenstown
1 de dezembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 16 °C
Queenstown, Otago, New Zealand
Sunday, December 1, 2013
The sun has returned! We left Te Anau Lodge, our very upmarket B&B and George mine host with reluctance, after a fascinating session of remote controlled planes on the back lawn (with a backdrop like no other). George is a fan and various other fans kept turning up with their planes to fly. It was obviously going to be a fun morning. I will include a photo.
The journey to Queenstown was glorious, both from the scenic and weather point of view. As those of you who have visited already will know, it is a town with a magnificent setting; at one end of Lake Wakatapu, surrounded by snow topped mountains. The phrase 'Location, Location, Location' comes to mind. Kirsty and Phil would have a field day. It is of course crowded with bright young things, but has a great vibe and we sat on the waterfront having a drink feeling immediately at home. Supper was taken at Botswana Butchery this evening. Interesting name for a restaurant. All the door handles were meat cleavers and the decor black and white and very eclectic. Great food, service and ambiance. If you are ever this way try it. We all ordered Baked Alaska for desert. Individual Alaskas were flambéed at the table in Cointreau and were absolutely divine. Having made your mouths water I'll say night night and leave you to a packet of crisps! What else are friends for?!
I shall need my sleep tonight, in preparation for the Bungee, jet boat and sky dive planned for tomorrow. P.S. Wills are lodged with the solicitors!Leia mais
Milford Sound
30 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 6 °C
Te Anau, Southland, New Zealand
Saturday, November 30, 2013
Oh Boy, what a day! We have definitely had four seasons in one today. We were up at the crack of dawn, well 6 o'clock anyway (call this a holiday!). It was pelting with rain as we left to drive the 120 kms to Milford Sound and my heart sank. The cloud was low and very little was visible . We had to check in by 10am for the cruise and it took us the 2 hrs to drive what is a spectacular route, or so we had heard. We did stop off at the mirror lakes to admire the reflection in the water. It continued to rain and a full rainbow just had to be photographed a little further on. The lupins were again in the ascendancy in the Eglington valley and lo and behold just as we arrived at the Homer tunnel it started to snow, so here was winter. Hearts in boots by now we trundled into the visitor centre at Milford Sound and to our surprise found it surprisingly quiet, no Chinese! (Too early we gathered) The Sound was wreathed in mist and appeared ethereal and almost autumnal, quite different to how I had envisaged it. There were cascades of waterfalls like bridal veils, so much rain had fallen overnight and it did look magical, which was a bonus. Gradually as we meandered slowly up the very narrow fiord the weather cleared and sun began to cast it's glow over the sheer walls. The water is 600 mtrs deep in parts and the temperate rainforest somehow clings to the upper walls. The tops of the mountains once they had eventually cleared were dusted with fresh snow and there were seals on the rocks and a variety of birds on show. We reached the mouth of the fiord and to our horror started to head out into the Tasman Sea. Hang on a minute, this wasn't on the sheet. The pitching and rolling began whilst the captain was on the lookout for flaming dolphins yet again! Fortunately, another squall came in and he gave up pretty sharpish to our relief. By the time we arrived back at the jetty it was lunchtime and a beautiful afternoon. The photograph at the end was much more summery and I suppose if you count the spring flowers that abound everywhere, you could say we have performed the four seasons in one day!
We have only touched the surface of one of the last wilderness areas on earth. It is a gigantic National Park, bigger than Yosemite and Yellowstone put together and largely unexplored. Milford is just one of the Sounds and the spectacular sights on offer and a must if you find yourself in the vicinity. Do drive it yourself, it is so much more rewarding. On the return journey to Te Anau we stopped at the Eglington river to photograph the valley, lupins and surroundings. We all emerged from the car to complete silence, bar the babbling of the river and birdsong. There was no one in sight for a full five minutes, the snow capped peaks soared above us and it was a special moment of tranquillity rarely found these days.
Te Anau looked better in the sunlight and the view from our bedroom window was everything we had thought it might be. Perhaps I was a little harsh yesterday, so don't cross it off the list just yet, but it is weather dependant. We went to the cinema this evening. There are armchairs and we watched a beautiful film of the area set to music to fill in the gaps that we cannot cover. A good glass of wine was served and it was a charming aperitif before supper.
Farewell Fiordland. We move on to Queenstown tomorrow and have to decide Bungee, Skydive or Shotover? Any thoughts?Leia mais
Te Anau
29 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Te Anau, Southland, New Zealand
Friday, November 29, 2013
It has been another travelling day today and we arrived in Te Anau mid afternoon. I knew I should have bought that sweater, in fact thermals would have been better, it's freezing and the mist is down once more. Te Anau is the jumping off point to explore the Fiordland area, particularly Milford and Doubtful Sounds. I'm sure on a good day it is fantastic, but it was pretty deadly this evening. I certainly couldn't live here, two nights will do. We are staying in a lovely B&B and if the mist lifts our room has clearly a fantastic view of the lake and mountains which hopefully we'll see tomorrow. There are three other couples here, all are now in bed and it's scarcely 10 o'clock, so a real wow. Geraldine remarked that she thought the woman sitting by the window seemed rather strange, which is true, as she was a man! She must wear her glasses more. It was the nose ring and the flowered shirt that did it! However, there is complimentary wine, beers etc, which may cease after we have gone . I'm currently enjoying a very palatable Villa Maria Sauvignon. Everyone else appeared to be drinking herbal tea when we got back. Oh dear !
We had a trip to view the glow worms this evening. Surely, there could be no trouble on a lake we thought. It is the deepest and largest lake in the South Island and I'm sure you know where I'm going with this. There were white horses on it and vast amounts of white spray in all directions. Geraldine and I looked at one another in disbelief. Thankfully the trip to the caves was only 30 mins, so we survived. We were accompanied by the usual 3 coaches of Chinese/ Japanese / Korean snapping everything in sight, even though there was little to see. They did seem to find the safety notice particularly snapable! The cave system and glow worms were well worth seeing however and the second boat ride of the evening in a pitch black cave a first.
All one could see were these little pin pricks of green light on the cave roof. Slightly more interesting than living in Te Anau I would suggest. Let's hope I can revise that tomorrow.Leia mais
Dunedin - New Zealand's Edinburgh!
28 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C
Dunedin, Otago, New Zealand
Thursday, November 28, 2013
Thursday 28 November
The day dawned much improved and it has been sunny and warm, which only confirms the rumour that New Zealand weather is rather like the UK and you can get all four seasons in a short space of time. Dunedin continues to be eerily Scottish. One of the first things we heard this am was the wail of the pipes yet again and locals refer to anything small as 'wee'. How strange is that?! Peter and I had a housekeeping morning, so nothing much to report, apart from the fact that we did successfully manage to procure haircuts of a suitable standard. Most important!! (Please pass this on to Jo, Josie!) The railway station here is an imposing Victorian gothic structure, still in a very good state. It's original majolica tiles made by Royal Doulton in the 1800s are still as pristine as the day they were laid. The station is now used for scenic trips around the area and Geraldine and Reg took advantage of this this afternoon, whilst we explored the Botanic Gardens. Good, but not up to Wellington's standard. We are meeting Alex and Clare Degan for supper tonight as we happen to be in the same place at that the same time once more! By sheer coincidence Geraldine and Reg bumped into them in the street late yesterday afternoon. Quite amazing.Leia mais
Sculptural Move
27 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C
Dunedin, Otago, New Zealand
Wednesday, November 27, 2013
Wednesday 27 November
I can only thank the Good Shepherd most sincerely! We did indeed wake up to more of the same and decided to cut our losses and move on, as we had a long drive to Dunedin ahead of us. On our way out of the hotel, who should come to say goodbye, but our friendly Kea and this time we managed to get so close as to see the whites of his eyes. There are photos! I was so thrilled, sad little bird watcher that I am!! The drive back down the approach road was just as spectacular and quite by chance I happened to look round and lo and behold the clouds had parted just sufficiently to glimpse the summit of Aoraki and her attendants. I yelled, Reg screamed to a halt and we all tumbled out cameras in hands. The resulting shots are not fantastic to be honest. It is one of those occasions to hold in the mind and remember that the mighty mountain showed herself momentarily as a fitting climax and we are suitably grateful.
We arrived in Oamaru in time for lunch, a town famed for its white granite buildings. All very Victorian and strangely incongruous in its small town setting. What had really attracted us was the Steampunk HQ, which a chance acquaintance had said we must not miss and we took her at her word. What on earth are you on about I hear you cry and in truth before the visit we thought exactly the same. It is an exhibition gallery housed in old Grain Elevator and is an unbelievable collection of quirky sculpture that mixes retro, futuristic, sci-if, sound and visual art featuring steam powered technology. The overall effect is unlike anything I have ever seen and is mind blowing. It is the work of two artists, a sculptor and a sound and visual artist and if you ever have the chance to visit this part of the South Island please put it on your list. I have tried to take some photos to give you an idea, but I suspect they will only hint at the impact.
Following this encounter we drove further south towards Dunedin, stopping at Moeraki to view it's boulders. Yes, I jest not. We move from a sculptural experience of man's ingenious mind to one that only Mother Nature could devise. These are 2m grey spheres scattered across the beach, their surrounding softer rock bed being eroded away over thousands of years. They are an amazing sight. I could give you a detailed description of their formation, but I fear you may drop off, so I'll leave it for another time! Peter was totally underwhelmed, but then he never has had a suitable appreciation of physical geography I'm afraid. By now a strong southerly was blowing all the way from the Antarctic and it was freezing. There was no sitting basking in the sun on this beach, we hi-tailed it back to the shelter of the car ASAP after the usual photo session.
Dunedin eventually appeared on the horizon and we ventured forth into the Edinburgh of the Southern Hemisphere to find some supper. One of the first sights we saw was a pair of guys warming up their bagpipes, in full Highland dress, fags in hand. Astonished would not be the word. We gathered they were to pipe in the haggis for a formal dinner at the Town Hall. It was still bitterly cold and it must have been mighty draughty under those kilts! Dunedin appears at first glance to be more Scottish than Scotland. At our restaurant this evening, we could have dined on Cullen Skink and Haggis, washed down by any one of 350 whiskey on offer. Goodness knows what we will find tomorrow.Leia mais
Aoraki-Mt Cook
26 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Fairlie, Canterbury, New Zealand
Tuesday, November 26, 2013
Tuesday 26 November
It has been a day on the road, with an amazing variety of ever changing scenery and some interesting stops, before arriving at Aoraki or Mt Cook Village in the late afternoon. We left behind the Banks Peninsula and worked our way south down SH1 stopping in Ashburton for a quick look, bearing in mind that there is a delightful identically named small town in Devon and we wanted to compare. Sorry NZ, Devon wins hands down this time. Lunchtime saw us approaching the farming community of Geraldine, which of course we could not pass. There were some weird looks from passing motorists as we took the uploaded photo of our Geraldine, who is definitely the more decorative of the two. Having said that, it is a charming small farming hub serving the surrounding community and we liked it. We had lunch in a farmers market cafe and shop. The soup was homemade and wholesome and Reg enjoyed having a wander round comparing produce. I think the result was price high, quality poor, which only confirmed what he had already heard, that first quality goes for export, but the New Zealanders still have to pay top prices for second quality. There were lots of opportunities to view farms as we tracked across the Canterbury Plains. Isolation was the word that struck me. It is normal I gather, but seems more extreme than in the UK.
Turning off onto SH8 the scenery became more rugged as we headed towards the Mt Cook National Park. The road climbs through Burkes Pass on to a high plateau called the MacKenzie Basin and the surroundings become ever more spectacular. As G&R exclaimed, nothing can really prepare you for such a sumptuous vista and it just went on and on. We stopped at Lake Tekapo to view the pretty stone Church of the Good Shepherd, dedicated to the many shepherds working on the sheep stations around the area. It is a simple but beautiful building, with a strong sense of tranquility. Behind the altar is a panoramic window and the congregation look out on the brilliant turquoise waters of the lake and the mountains framing it. A God given spot if ever I saw one. For miles around on either side of the state highway are masses of wild lupins and they are also growing in front of the church beside the lake. Just now they are in full bloom and a magnificent sight. Their spicy scent flavours the air and apparently they arrived via an English settler in the 1850s, who wished to have a memory of his garden at home, so he scattered lupin seeds and they have multiplied and spread. After much oohing and ahing we moved on to Lake Pukaki, which is just as turquoise and even larger. On a clear day Mt Cook is silhouetted at the far end, but sadly the cloud was down and only the bottom third visible, but hey no you can't be lucky all the time. A postcard may have to suffice. Approaching the village along one side of the lake, we had to stop at Peter's lookout, for yet another photo shoot. Reg and I are wondering when we will get ours - some hope!! We had dinner this evening at the Hermitage Hotel and the dining room is perfectly placed for an unsurpassed Mountain view, providing there is no cloud! We did have one unexpected treat however. During dinner a kea (large green mountain parrot) bounced up to to the window by our table looking hopeful. Guests are forbidden to feed them, but it was a great end to the day. I have heard so much about them, but never expected to bump into one in the flesh so to speak. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a quick glimpse of Mt Cook tomorrow, but am not hopeful, the forecast looks more of the same. Perhaps the Good Shepherd will look after us.Leia mais
Akaroa and the plastic bags!
25 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 🌧 10 °C
Akaroa, Canterbury, New Zealand
Monday, November 25, 2013
Monday 25 November
Well hello, Auckland weather once more! We've had a good run and into life a little drop of rain must fall and there have been a few bucketfuls today. Akaroa locals were discussing the need for water for the garden in the supermarket this afternoon. Felt like home.
The Nature Cruise cast off at 1.30 just as the first drop of rain started to fall. I had a gut instinct that this might not be the trip of a lifetime; the calm sunny harbour of the previous day had a distinctly malevolent feel. However, the skipper of the Black Cat Catamaran was relentlessly cheery and after 30 mins I could have cheerfully cut his microphone cord. It was misty with low cloud shrouding the hill tops, but, it was a great day for positive people like us to see the harbour in its true state. Get the drift? The harbour is a flooded volcanic caldera and certainly interesting, but a quick overview would have sufficed. Our mission for the afternoon was to search for seals ( found two fighting on a ledge, can't say I blamed them, probably could hear the commentary), dolphins and the rare blue penguin. The boat headed out towards the harbour entrance where apparently the little dears are more likely to be found. Oh, wait a minute......was that a quick flash of dorsal fin at 9 o'clock ? We understand that it was, only I found nobody who managed to film it, not even the prowling Japanese trio with the enormous telephoto lenses trained at all angles. Not to be deterred, the boat chased the illusive Hectors Dolphin all over the bay and I became seriously alarmed as it started to pitch and roll and the cabin crew started to discreetly lay plastic bags in prominent positions. (What happened to the nice stout brown paper ones of yesteryear? ). Please bear in mind that at this point all four of us were clad in our wet suits ready to jump in and swim with the first foolhardy dolphin to appear. At one point Peter put his arm around me and looking concerned whispered in my ear ' if you find yourself heading overboard in a hurry, pass me the camera first!!'. By this point several people were a sickly shade of green and reaching for the bags and if it hadn't been for a sweet girl from Yorkshire who gave me a couple of sea sick lozenges I may well have joined them. As a finale, guess who turned up? Not dolphins, But Yep, you've guessed it , the ******** penguins. "Everyone dash to the starboard bow and there are 3 at 5 o'clock". Peter and I looked at each other, by this stage we were clutching one another for grim death; he whispered romantically in my ear once more " I don't care if there are 50 blank blank penguins out there, I'm not moving from this spot! ". I could only concur.
Geraldine, who was really bothered that she might be the worst sailor of all, triumphed and coped brilliantly, although like us all was pleased to see dry land looming up out of the mist.
Thankfully on returning to the jetty all stomachs calmed down and a cup of tea was found. The skipper was terribly apologetic re the lack of Dolphins and kindly handed out free vouchers for tomorrow's cruise to have another go! What a pity we are moving on tomorrow. Ours are now where they belong, in four pieces at the bottom of the bin and our mythical wetsuits are back where they belong!!!Leia mais
The Christchurch Sojourn
24 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Akaroa, Canterbury, New Zealand
Sunday, November 24, 2013
Sunday 24 November
Another travelling day, this time to Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula, named by Captain Cook for Sir Joseph Banks, the ship's botanist. We awoke to a sea fret which was a surprise, but it soon burnt off and the journey took us down the coast once more, before diverting inland towards the Waipara Valley and Christchurch. The scenery became increasingly majestic and pastoral. A great interest to Reg of course. At one time there were 7 million head of sheep in New Zealand, a lot of them in this area. Those days have long since gone, but there are still a fair few. A coffee was needed and we found a great cafe cum winery cellar door at the Waipara Springs Winery. It was sunny and warm and we sat in the charming garden sipping our coffees before adjourning to the cellar to sample some wines. A delightful Riesling and surprisingly for me, who is not a fan, a really drinkable Chardonnay. I was severely tempted to buy a bottle, so serious stuff!
The garden city of Christchurch is said to be very English and I can see what is meant by that. We drove through the CBD stopping en route for a bite to eat. There is a heartbreaking amount of severe damage visible and small earthquakes are still coming at regular intervals. Reconstruction is now underway and the finished city will be marvellous I'm sure, but there are a vast number of houses yet to be strengthened and rebuilt. It was not a huge earthquake by Richter scale standards, but the epicentre was close by in Lyttelton Bay, which caused the problems, together with severe liquefaction. When we arrived in Akaroa the receptionist of our motel greeted us with the news that there had been two small quakes on the peninsula in the last week!
This is again a very beautiful spot and the small town that hugs the large harbour just charming. It has considerable French influence, due to the fact that it was settled by French Colonists in 1840. The harbour is teeming with wildlife of one sort and another and we have booked a nature cruise for tomorrow.
The cricket has become something of a nightmare and PL is moaning like a lunatic. Phrases such as 'no backbone' & 'I'm not surprised!' have been bandied about. Help!!
There have been two saving graces: firstly, rain stopped play late on today and I hope it pours all day tomorrow to let me and England off the hook and secondly, he has found Arsenal v Southampton on TV tonight and Arsenal won. Phew!!Leia mais
Yealands et al!
23 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Kaikoura, Canterbury, New Zealand
Saturday, November 23, 2013
Saturday 23 November
A travelling day today, so quieter. We took SH1 down the coast, initially through the Awatara valley. Terrific views, from an overlook on the way to Yealands Winery, which is something to see, on several levels. As we approached on Seaview Rd ( which eventually ends up on the coast at Cloudy Bay) the vines again stretched as far as the eye could see in immaculate straight lines, which we learned later are set out using GPS . The attention to detail continued throughout. The winery itself was immense and the cellar door set up superb. The reception area desk consisted of two huge pieces of Matai wood brought from Peter Yealand's farm further south. A team had laboured all day to manoeuvre the pieces in position all day with no luck and in exasperation Yealand sent them home to return the next day and try again. The next morning on their return the wood was where he wanted it. He and his son had set about it themselves that evening and it was done. This probably tells one quite a bit about the man and his determination. I was reminded of Barry Brickell and the Driving Creek Railway - no surrender. The winery is virtually carbon neutral and everything is recycled. The vine clippings are bundled and fed into the incinerators for energy production, in which they are entirely self sufficient. Large areas of wetland have been developed to encourage birds and wildlife and miniature sheep and pigs are specially bred for size and utilised to crop the grass between the vines and keep everything tidy with no waste! In an experiment, areas of vines are played classical music together with the hens that roam free range in the musical section. Interestingly, both the grapes and the eggs produced in the music fed areas are larger by far than the musically deprived! This huge business has been built in 20 years and what's more the wines weren't bad either!!
Once SH1 hits the coast the scenery is lovely. The road follows the Pacific for some 50 kms and at the moment is fringed by masses of yellow flowering wild lupins. It is a magical sight. Approaching Kaikoura one comes upon the seal colonies basking on the rocks. They are so well camouflaged it takes a while to get your eye in. They are huge, so ungainly on land, but elegant in the extreme in the sea, their natural environment and remarkably tolerant of human curiosity, as you will see from the odd photograph. We arrived here in Kaikoura early afternoon. Slightly disappointing as a town if I'm honest, having heard so much I was expecting more somehow. I suspect it is all about the whale watching in truth, which we have decided to pass on. The sea is showing a strong swell and there is a distinct lack of whales at the moment so we're told. However, we are lucky enough to have rooms overlooking the ocean and to top it all, it was lobster for supper. Yum Yum!Leia mais
Blenheim New Zealand
22 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
Blenheim, Marlborough, New Zealand
Friday, November 22, 2013
Friday 22 November
We've found it Wine Group - the perfect Marigold Hotel! It was a disappointment when we were unable to book the highly recommended VineView, but this alternative 'The Vintners Retreat' also came equally talked up. A collection of small villas, with a communal pool, pétanque, croquet and veg patch and surrounded by vines as far as the eye can see. One can stagger to any number of wineries and drive short distances to many more. The food in general here is first class and the trousers are getting tighter by the day! What geriatric could ask for more, except good company, which would be guaranteed. The pace is relentless and yesterday's session obviously had more of an affect than I anticipated. I discovered this morning that I had washed the clothes in dishwasher detergent as opposed to Persil. We are certainly sparkling today! Lemon finish is always best!!
Peter is a happy bunny as the cricket has started and it is on in the background, as I attempt to type (all slightly blurry!). 4 English wickets gone in 10 mins at the Gabba ........
Great tasting day today. Breakfast out at a local cafe and a large Kiwi for PL who sickeningly never puts on a pound and has no issue with waistbands. We started at Villa Maria and moved on to Cloudy Bay, so all high end stuff. Unsurprisingly, the mood became more and more light hearted as the day wore on. A fine lunch was taken at Rockferry Wineries ( an organic winery ) and we have local cheese and a bottle of Cloudy Bay Pinot Gris in the fridge for later. We selected the Pinot Gris, because it was particularly fine (mind you so was most of those sampled) and not available in the UK at present, as only a small amount made annually.
A snippet of conversation over lunch that may make you smile..... Another wicket down....
Geraldine: 'I feel stone cold sober at the moment'
Peter: 'Long may it continue.... have another glass!
Geraldine: 'At this rate you'll have to sort me out in the back of the car!'
Followed by guffaws of laughter and protestations of ' I didn't mean it that way'.
On the way back to The Retreat we stopped to buy some local cherries on the side of the road and called into some small shops to have a browse. The chap in one recognised us from the Cougar Line launch the other day, unfortunately, we didn't remember him! He was very helpful, giving various ideas for things and restaurants (groan) to try. It transpired that he came from Stamford! So the coincidences go on... Yet another wicket, will have to go for a stroll to calm down.Leia mais
En Route
21 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 18 °C
Blenheim, Marlborough, New Zealand
Thursday, November 21, 2013
Thursday 21 November
Leaving Furneaux Lodge on a clear sunny morning was a wrench, but the journey back to Picton by launch was again a joy, stopping off at various jetties to deliver/ drop off people and packages. There are many beautiful quaint houses clinging to the hillsides, with stupendous views of the Sound. In New Zealand a holiday retreat like this is called a Bach (pronounced like catch). It is apparently short for bachelor establishment and according to our skipper they are historically short of amenities and luxuries! However, that is clearly not always the case by the look of some. Everything has to be brought in by boat and the round trip to shop in Picton will take you a day. The last boat back in the summer is 6pm and 1pm in the winter. Forgetting the milk could be tricky!
We arrived in Blenheim just in time for lunch at Wairua Winery which is just down the road and the half day wine tour booked for this afternoon. It was good, but nowhere near as good as Hawkes Bay. One of the wineries visited was Framingham, named after the founders home at Framinghan Manor in Norfolk. Small world or what? We are on our own tomorrow and will hit a few of our favourites. To say one is spoiled for choice would be an understatement. There are vines as far as the eye can see backed by statuesque mountain ranges. It is quite a sight.
I'll update you tomorrow if I can see straight enough to type!Leia mais
Furneaux Lodge, Queen Charlotte Sound
20 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 28 °C
Nelson, Nelson, New Zealand
Wednesday, November 20, 2013
Wednesday 20 November
This place is paradise. It is a warm sunny day and the sea is so clear and blue as to be unbelievable. I'm sitting on the verandah writing to you all, just trying to hold this all in my mind. We took a short walk into the forest this am, which is a symphony of light and shade and are relaxing this afternoon. The dining room is first class and the whole place is relaxed and not overdone. I did try to upload some photos to give you an idea, but the connections are very iffy here. I think they may have to catch up at our next establishment. The dawn chorus at 5.30 this morning was deafening, so Reg tells us anyway!! Originally, New Zealand's wildlife consisted purely of birds and 2 mammals (types of bat) . Following the introduction of various pests from overseas, such as the stoat, possum etc the numbers of birds have declined drastically, particularly the flightless birds, except in remote parts such as here. Various conservation groups are trying to redress the balance involving the usual fight with animal groups. We did see odd possum traps around the forest this morning, which is allowed on private property. The tide is out and I've been poking about in the rock pools; there are great clumps of blue mussels, conversely known as the green lipped mussel, lots of tiny crabs, clams and winkles in every crevice. Fascinating the world over. Just sipping a cup of leaf Earl Grey tea, which is an unexpected bonus. Life doesn't get much better (sad little souls that we are!) . Don't panic, we have a great bottle of Sauvignon Blanc in the fridge for pre dinner drinks. On that note, I'll sign off and meet up with you again in Blenheim for the second of the Grape Escapes!Leia mais
North to South
19 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C
Picton, Marlborough, New Zealand
Tuesday, November 19, 2013
Tuesday 19 November
The car was safely delivered to the ferry terminus at 7. 30 this morning and I jest not! Geraldine, (no sailor of note) was relieved to see that no rowing was required and the sea was like a mill pond. The crossing was picturesque in the extreme, particularly when the ship swung into Queen Charlotte Sound. Everything was made so much more intense by the sun sparkling off the blue blue sea. We ventured individually onto the observation deck at key intervals to observe (highly original) and take the odd photograph. By the very nature of the beast it is exposed and was blowing a gale, or so it seemed. Peter returned from one such trip looking a bit sheepish . I gave him a sharp glance and asked if he was ok ? Intuition told me something was afoot. Sure enough! 'My hat blew off' he muttered. 'You're joking' says I. 'I would have lost it, if a lady hadn't have chased it down the deck and grabbed it just before it disappeared into oblivion'. We looked at one another and dissolved into fits of laughter to the mystification of G&R, who hadn't heard the old story of the vicar who was asked to give a talk to the local scouts on Sex Education. Rather reticent of admitting this to his wife, he told her he was to give a talk on sailing. Several days later, she bumped into the leader of the scout troop who mentioned what an excellent talk the vicar had given. 'Oh really?' exclaimed his wife ' I wasn't aware he knew anything about it. The first time he was sick, the second time his hat blew off!' Exit perplexed scout leader stage left!!! The old ones are the best.............
Picton has appeared gleaming white in the sunlight at the end of the Sound, so I'd better close temporarily and pick up again later. TTFN
We are now at Furneaux Lodge our next port of call, literally. After arriving at Picton we were picked up by the Cougar Line launch and travelled for an hour or so up the Sound into Endeavour Inlet to be dropped at Furneaux Lodge, which can only be reached by water. There Is no road access. It is like being on your own desert Island, with its own little beach surrounded by virgin forest. This area has remained untouched since Captain Cook anchored in the Inlet in 1769 naming Mt Furneaux after Captain Tobias Furneaux of HMS Resolution. There is also a Resolution Bay. We have a delightful contemporary suite overlooking the beach and there is not a sound apart from the the birds and the sea. It is heavenly. This is our chill out session before starting our exploration of the South Island and we intend to do very little except enjoy being here.Leia mais
Wellington
18 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 14 °C
Wellington, Wellington, New Zealand
Monday, November 18, 2013
Monday 18 November
As you probably know, New Zealand's capital city was named in honour of the Duke of Wellington and we have been all over it like a rash, as we have only had this one day to form an impression. The Iron Duke would approve of our energy and perseverance, but then Peter did win his only school prize for the latter! We decided to take a half day tour with Paul from Flat Earth and It was an early start (yet again, and you know how much I love those!). However, it was worth it to cover the ground. We drove all around the harbour, little bays and charming, if expensive, suburbs many close to the beaches, but just 15 mins from the city centre. Again, you have to think that the work/life balance is pretty good here. Coffee and a cheese scone at a shell built café at Scorching Bay, south facing and hill sheltered from the prevailing winds, so always, well, scorching!
I have been really struck by the diverse architecture throughout our journey so far and none more so than here in Wellington. There are no two houses alike or so it seems and whether it be a traditional or modern style the kerb appeal alone is enough to draw one in. Many are built into the hillsides with fabulous sea or scenic views and some have no vehicular access at all. They are often individually serviced by their own private elevator running up the steep cliff face. I had visions of getting half way up with the weekly shop for there to be a power cut. I have left my phone on the kitchen table and am wearing totally unsuitable footwear and clothing. Naturally, it is raining and blowing a gale. All romantic illusions shattered in one hit or what?!
We viewed the government and entertainment districts, plus the views from Mt Victoria. It was a cool and slightly overcast morning, so couldn't see the mountains of Kaioura which are often visible on a clear day over the Cook Straits. We were to finish the tour using the cable car, but it was out of action, so a bus had to suffice. Sound familiar? Well, they can't get everything right. Again, another fabulous harbour view, followed by a walk down through The Botanic Gardens, which were lovely and yes, Mary, the Rose Garden was in full bloom and just wonderful. It reminded me of our trip to Houghton last summer, fellow wine imbibers. (Minus the champagne of course). An amusing note - we caught sight of an Oriental gentleman very carefully photographing the lift in the visitor centre. A normal lift, nothing out of the ordinary you understand. We are still trying to get our heads round it! Flower arrangers, please note the photo of the bench I found here. It will strike a chord. A more charming way to be remembered I cannot imagine.
Lunch was taken at the outdoor cafe in the rose garden and the sun had by now appeared. Picture the scene; small tables under a vine pergola filled with fellow garden lovers, cheeky sparrows dodging about looking for scraps, a riot of colours from the rose beds and the beautiful Japanese inspired Peace Garden to the right, casting a spell over all. It was a delightful, calm oasis in the middle of a hectic day. Following a rest and bask in the sun we walked down through the city to the harbour, following the path round to Te Papa, Wellington's famous interactive museum, here we spent an informative and interesting couple of hours. The wharf areas have been redeveloped spectacularly in recent years, in common with many similar harbours throughout the world, from being somewhat dank and run down to an attractive and lively area full of restaurants, bars, sailing and rowing facilities and art work. The Wellingtonians are justifiably proud of their city as the art and culture centre of New Zealand and modern and traditional art installations are placed throughout the city and harbour, to great effect. It is without doubt a spectacularly naturally set capital with a great deal to offer. Much is made of the climate and it's disposition to wind, but then it is the most southerly capital city in the world. Perhaps we were lucky as there was no wind to speak of. I understand that it is subject to biting southerlies direct from the Antarctic during the winter, which perhaps gives rise to the notion. We retreated back to our city apartment, footsore and weary, but feeling that we had managed to achieve as good an overview as was possible in the time available.
Yet again, it is time to pack up and move on in the morning, (crack of dawn once more!) leaving our car at the Inter Island ferry terminal and moving on to the South Island. We leave the North with regret. We have loved it, but are conscious that we have left plenty for another occasion should the chance arise. Fingers crossed!Leia mais
Martinborough
17 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 16 °C
Wellington, Wellington, New Zealand
Sunday, November 17, 2013
Sunday 17 November
A travelling day today, but an interesting start in Napier, the windscreen of the hire car had developed a crack overnight. Quelle Horreur!! There followed multiple phone calls from PL accompanied by much pacing up and down and running of hands through hair, whilst the rest of us tucked into breakfast! The result was we drove down to Wellington with said crack and it moved not an inch, so all was well.
We stopped at Martinborough, about 100 kms north of the capital, as it is a small town renowned for its boutique wineries. When we arrived the place was heaving, and it's only small. It emerged that we had turned up just too late to immerse ourselves in a food and wine open Sunday, with all wineries open for business. Probably as well, as someone would have lost out, to be able to drive the rest of the way to Wellington. Looked really interesting mind and to test it out we had a great Martinborough Pinot Noir at dinner tonight. Lovely restaurant around the corner from the hotel. Boulcott Street Bistro, a lovely clapperboard quirky house, the original home of John Plinner the founder of the New Zealand Company.
We are off to explore Wellington tomorrow-will let you know.Leia mais
Napier
16 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Napier, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand
Saturday, November 16, 2013
Saturday 16 November
We just love Napier. It has an elegance and timeless quality about it, in no small part due to its extraordinary architecture. Peter and I joined an Art Deco Walking Tour this morning and were lucky enough to be guided by a retired architect, who had been Chairman of the Art Deco Association. A charming fellow, who really knew his stuff. Napier was raised to the ground in 1931 by an earthquake measuring 7.8 on the Richter scale - Big. The townspeople set about rebuilding their town with the now added advantage of the land being raised 2mtrs as a result of the quake, giving them a much larger land mass to play with. This was of course the hey day of The Art Deco period (between the wars) , so consequently the whole CBD was expanded and rebuilt in that style. Amazingly, the town has managed to retain 140 buildings and now has the largest collection of AD buildings in the world. I had only seen the odd building in this style before and it's not until you see a whole planned town, that you begin to realise how ground breaking as a style it must have been at the time and how attractive. Today being Saturday, there were cars of the age driving through the streets. There were lots of small interesting shops and for the first time on this trip I felt like a browse, but luckily for Peter there was insufficient time. I know, I'm losing my grip- where will it all end?
We did pop into one of the supermarkets on the way back to the hotel with some trepidation, it being prime time on a Saturday morning and images of piled trolleys and grumpy shoppers at Tescos flashed into the mind. To our astonishment it was practically empty, we could find all we needed and pay without any hassle. We came out shell shocked and had to find a strong cup of coffee to recover.
This afternoon was the first of our planned Grape Escapes. We were collected from our hotel at 12.30 in a small coach, the back of which was already filled with young ladies, who looked as if they could be heading for a day trip of the lady Licence Victuallers Assn. We hadn't gone half a mile before PL leaned over and whispered 'do you think it's going to be this noisy all afternoon'. I whispered back 'noisier!'. He turned a whiter shade of pale. We stopped yet again in a small cull de sac of houses when yet more young things piled out of houses in skimpy frocks, tottering heels & in some cases complete with fascinators! We now have a full bus of 24 and apart from Greg the driver and organiser and Peter and Reg, all were female! South Wootton Wine Group eat your heart out (well the male half anyway). We all had to introduce ourselves in modern fashion, so amidst the Shelley's, Raquel's and Tanya's there were Dulcie, Peter, Geraldine and Reg. I'm not sure who was the more surprised. We visited 3 Hawkes Bay Vineyards or Wineries as they are known here. The sun continued to pour down and the afternoon just got noisier and noisier as the wines started to loosen a few tongues, that weren't slack already. Once the crowd adjusted to the idea of these old fogies in their midst, they became very welcoming and chatty and we ended up having to have a group photo taken with Peter and Reg overwhelmed by female lushness(is there such a word, or has the wine coddled my thought processes?) The wineries were a revelation. We tried around 8 wines in each one , plus some local olive oils and cheeses. If only there was no airline weight restriction! The tally of bottles and cases of wine bought increased as we moved on, until every time we went round a corner there was mass clinking. We did succumb and buy some lovely Sauvignon Blanc to take with us and drink at our chill out stop at Furness Lodge, on Queen Charlottes Sound, in a few days time. The winery was Ngatarawa and the setting was simply beautiful. I will post a couple of pics for you to see. It was a fun afternoon and when we dropped back at our hotel we were clapped and cheered off the coach. It is most noticeable how friendly everyone is here. Strangers still say good morning in the street and stop to help you out if you look lost. The work/life balance is spot on and it does make one nostalgic for more simple times.
On returning to Napier we were in need of sustenance to soak up all that alcohol and Yep, you've guessed it, we headed straight to the nearest Fish and Chip shop and ate them out of the paper sitting at a picnic table by the beach. It was a glorious evening and all seemed right with the world. One night fine dining par excellence, the next F&C on the beach!Leia mais
The Best of Rotorua
15 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 12 °C
Rotorua, Bay Of Plenty, New Zealand
Friday, November 15, 2013
Friday 15 November
I think you can safely say we are geothermal'd out! We moved on this am to Napier stopping off at Wai-O-Tapu on the way. At last here were the type of volcanic features I had been expecting, in their natural setting. Those of you who know me well will be shocked to hear we were on the doorstep of the Lady Constance Geyser well before she was due to blow at 10.15am and this is 30 kms from Rotorua. The geyser is billed as a bigger event than Old Faithfull in Yellowstone. Not so on several accounts. Impressive certainly, but nudged into action by a chemical fixer and has been for the last 80 years, to prevent a huge blow out. There were sufficient coloured pools, boiling mud pools and travertine terraces to excite the average geographer to death. Peter on fixing his eye on the sixth mud pool was heard to mutter, 'seen one mud patch seen 'em all'! The sun shone, glistening off the silica deposits and the whole area looked like a scene from a moonscape. Fascinating to think what is going on under the surface of such a green and pleasant land and how close everything is to being blown away. New Zealand sits on the edge of two tectonic plates moving over one another. The resulting eruptions and earthquakes have shaped a land of great beauty that is still evolving at a fast rate (geophysically that is). We sped on down towards Taupo and it's enormous volcanic lake to view the Huka Falls, which is another sight not to be missed. The force of the water is phenomenal and it is pure turquoise, which is arresting on it's own. Interestingly, the foliages on the edge of the gorge are really alpine, whilst just a few feet away is sub- tropical lush vegetation. Such contrast in such a small area. It was relatively quiet and we had no problem getting to and viewing whatever we wished to. The only irritating factor was the ever camera happy Japanese/ Korean/Chinese who seem to have to be photographed in front of every half interesting feature available. Manners are clearly non existent in their culture and I am just relieved that we are unlikely to be asked to view their enormous photograph collections!!
The remainder of the journey to Napier passed without incident and as we neared Napier and Hawkes Bay the scenery became even more beautiful. Wineries appeared everywhere and we started to anticipate the wine tastings to come!
The hotel here is super, on the beach and each room has a spa bath in to accommodate the whole of the wine group in one hit. We ate at a really good restaurant called Pacifico tonight. I don't expect to better the meal in the next 3 months. We came on it quite by chance and if you're ever this way look it up.Leia mais
Rotorua
14 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia ⋅ 13 °C
Rotorua, Bay Of Plenty, New Zealand
Thursday, November 14, 2013
Thursday 14 November
The day dawned bright and sunny and so it has continued. We have explored Rotorua and some of its geothermals. It is such a strange mixture. Close to our motel, as I mentioned yesterday, is a geothermal park and I must be honest I expected it to be an area of natural scrub interspersed with mud pools, steaming lakes and fumaroles. The actuality was something of a surprise. There were all of the aforementioned features, surrounded by perfectly manicured lawns, shrubberies, laid out planting and topped with a wisteria clad Monet's bridge! The azaleas are at their best and the white Chatham lilies a picture, but it seemed such an incongruous mix as to be almost bewildering. I suppose I had Yellowstone in my mind as a benchmark and had anticipated a similar approach. The second area of volcanic activity is mixed in with a Maori village and expensive to view, as one has to take the whole package, so we left it, bearing in mind as we move on tomorrow, we will pass the largest area about 30 kms south. We drove slightly out of town this afternoon to look at some of the many beautiful lakes created as a result of past volcanic activity. At one spot, one can stand on a ridge between the green (Rotokakahi) and blue (Tikitapu) lakes and view the two. It is absolutely true, one does look blue and the other green, apparently due to the granite base of one and sandy bottom of the other. Well, who'd a thunk it!! We finished the afternoon by driving round the whole of Lake Rotorua, which is large. It was a perfect afternoon with not a cloud in the sky. We came upon a glorious spot called Hamurana recreation resort, of which I will upload a picture or two. To our astonishment, there on the lake, were hundreds of black swans and their cygnets. We stood and watched them for ages quite spellbound. This evening, our last in Rotorua, we had a meal at the Skyline restaurant approached via a gondola service. The views were amazing and the meal taken watching the sun set over the town and lake, as a myriad of twinkling lights transformed the area into a magical wonderland.
Rotorua, is unusual and the jury is out for me as to my opinion. I am reminded of a conversation I had with Richard W, when he said he felt it had been over-commercialised to the point of ruination and not to waste a great deal of time there. I see exactly where you are coming from Richard and may well come to agree with you.Leia mais
The Kiwi Experience
13 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Rotorua, Bay Of Plenty, New Zealand
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
Wednesday 13 November
A good trip to Rotorua, stopping at Waihi, an old mining town that still has an operating open cast gold mine. It is a BIG hole, (see pics ). Devon Merry Mystery Tourers eat your heart out. You want mining, this is it and the end result is so pretty! Interestingly, there is also the remains of a Cornish pumping tower on site, that used to pump 7000 gallons of water out per hour, in the 1800s.
Lunch was taken harbour-side at Tauranga. Geraldine and I hovered over Safe Sex on the Beach, but decided it was far too chilly and settled on a Naked Grape! Before you think this trip has turned our heads, be assured, they are Mocktails!! Whilst on the subject of drink, we have taken the grape aspect of our trip very seriously and are trying out a different variety nightly. Our favourite so far has been a Villa Maria Sauvignon Southern Clay, but Napier looms and I expect it to have a run for it's money there. We arrived here at Rotorua late afternoon and are just a block from one of the geo thermal areas. A faint wiff of hydrogen sulphide lingers on the air and we have many physical geographical features to cover over the next couple of days. Tonight we visited a Maori village for a traditional hangi meal. The meat is cooked in traditional manner over hot coals buried under ground. It was very tasty and tender, accompanied by various salads, garlic bread and gravy(?!), the like of which have never graced an authentic Maori banana leaf I suspect. It certainly beat hands down the meal on the harbour at Hong Kong so that's a mighty plus. It was a good evening, but not a patch on the the Maori performance at Waitangi with Chief Peter earlier in the week, but then what could top that?
In seriousness the highlight of the evening for us was the true Kiwi Experience. We were led through the bush to a series of large enclosures in the hope of seeing a live Kiwi, NZs national symbol. It is a strange but haunting flightless bird, that is almost mammal like and snuffles around in the undergrowth for its food. These are a small group of captive birds, part of a study programme that will not be able to be released into the wild. To our joy we saw three and for me, it sealed a perfect day.Leia mais
Coromandel Peninsula
12 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Coromandel, Waikato, New Zealand
Tuesday, November 12, 2013
Tuesday 12 November
Thankfully for us and the blog, a quiet day today. We drove up over the top of the Coromandel Peninsula (well I did actually) to yet more stunning views and descended to the west coast, which is a limestone bedrock, making for beautiful cliffs and formations. Whitianga was a great stop for lunch and the ferry to Cook Island well worth the 5$ return. We walked across the Island (only small ) and sat on a beautiful deserted beach in the sun with the surf rolling rhythmically on to the shore. Two oystercatchers were feeding at the waterline, dashing backwards and forwards to avoid the waves and catch the little molluscs disturbed by the sea. It was warm, secluded and delightful and it was an effort to move on! We trickled our way down the coast, each bay/cove seemingly more enchanting than the next, until arriving at our destination for the night. Taiura is a small town hugging the coast with a high hill boasting fantastic views over the area as you will see from the photos posted. Tomorrow we move on to Rotorua and a stay of 2 nights, which will be a luxury after 3 one night stops. Selina, this for you! We came across a Kiwi Experience coach today at Cathedral Cove and thought of you! Happy memories!!Leia mais
Coromandel & the Driving Creek Railway
11 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Coromandel, Waikato, New Zealand
Monday, November 11, 2013
Monday 11 November
Today dawned fine and clear and we started our day with a walk on a deserted beach at St Martins Bay which would lift the spirits of the grumpiest soul. We drove down to the Coromandel Peninsula arriving at lunchtime, stopping for a bite to eat at a lovely garden centre at Thames. The sun continued to shine whilst we drove up the Pacific Coast Highway, on the east coast of the Peninsula. The scenery was spectacular, I have included the odd photo to give an idea, but in truth no photo would do it justice. All you flower arrangers out there, the driftwood was mouth wateringly tempting. It was scattered everywhere, but fitting it into a suitcase could be challenging! Clinging to the rocks at every conceivable angle were Pohutukawa trees. Known as the New Zealand Christmas tree, they are just coming into bloom, with their showy red bottle brush flowers. In a week or so the whole coastline will be aflame until Christmas and beyond, hence the name. Wild nasturtiums clothe the banks creating a riot of colour, interspersed by giant phormium tenax, throwing up their gigantic flower spikes. It was a thrilling drive, starting off hugging the shoreline for miles, eventually climbing higher and higher until the views over the coastline and sea with it's Islands took the breath away.
Our trip this afternoon was to the Driving Creek Railway and Potteries, just north of Coromandel. Sounds a bit odd? It was a revelation and an inspirational afternoon. The sun shone and we arrived at this higgledy piggedly group of buildings, set out vaguely like a railway station. (Peter T this is for you) The whole site, which is several acres, was bought by a potter called Barry Brickell in the 70s, to enable him to extract the good quality clay for potting and to establish a pottery workshop for himself and fellow artists. He is a something of an icon in these parts, both as an artist, railway enthusiast and conservationist. The land had been cleared of its original Kauri forest in the 1800s and laid waste by subsequent subsistence farmers. He set about building a short railway to convey the clay down the mountainous terrain for the pottery and it grew and grew. It now takes 1 hr to travel through the regenerated kauri forest (all his own work) and the track incorporates 2 spirals, 3 short tunnels, 5 reversing points & several large viaducts. Every inch of track has been hand built and laid by Barry himself, in between earning himself a more than justified high reputation as a potter. The final terminus is The Eyefull Tower, yes, I'm not joking and the 360 degree panoramic views are fantastic! particularly today with the sun bouncing off the sparkling blue waters and the lush greens of the tree ferns, which clothe the hillside, together with replanted young Kauri , pittosporum and so on.
A variety of pots decorate the whole site, hand-made clay tiles line the tunnels, and embankments are built up with empty glass bottles, of which there is apparently no shortage (plenty of parties thrown as well as pots!). This incredible man, a native New Zealander, with a zest for life that humbles one, has achieved all this virtually single handed and at 78 still climbs up to the Eyefull Tower 2 or 3 times a week to read the visitor book and check all is well. He has taken no money from the project beyond essential expenses and intends to will the whole enterprise to the Nation on his death, for the conservation side of his amazing life long project to continue into the future. I asked Pete, the train driver, if Mr Brickell is married, thinking to myself, that his wife must be a remarkable person to cope with several all consuming passions beyond herself! The answer was fired back instantly ' Of course not, if he had been, the furthest he would have got up that mountain was putting out the bins!'
We are staying in Coromandel town tonight, which is delightful and had a terrific seafood meal at the Peppertree restaurant. The local oysters are certainly to be recommended!Leia mais
The Kauri Forest
10 de novembro de 2013, Nova Zelândia
Snells Beach, Auckland, New Zealand
Sunday, November 10, 2013
Sunday 10 November
My wish has come true! A relatively quiet and uneventful day to report. We left The Bay of Islands with regret this am and travelled across to the West coast which is completely different to the East; wilder and more rugged and so sparsely populated, it has to be seen to be believed. We stopped for coffee at a lovely cafe in the middle of nowhere, with a panoramic view of the coast, to die for. You can view the Hokianga river and estuary where rollers from the Tasman Sea break violently over the top of the river, almost like a permanent bore. At the mouth of the river has formed an enormous dune, at a guess probably 4/500ft high. I've never seen anything quite like it.
Our journey then took us on a southerly route following the coast initially and gradually moving inland to the Waipoua Forest. Here is the last refuge of the magnificent Kauri tree, a giant of a fir native to New Zealand. Ninety percent of the Northland was once covered in this fabulous dense temperate forest, encompassing not only Kauri, but all types of ferns including tree ferns, vines, mosses, and other lush foliages I cannot name. It is a most attractive forest to walk through and I will try to upload some pictures to give an idea. Gradually it was eroded by logging, as the kauri is so hard and tall and straight it was perfect for ships masts in the 1800s. The Maori hollowed out the trunks for their wakas (war canoes) and big business built around the Kauri, until in the nick of time, the government was persuaded to buy up what was left (very little) and save them for the nation. We visited the largest Kauri in existence which is called Tane Mahuta and is thought to have been in existence for about 2000 yrs. Majestic would be the word.
We eventually arrived in Snell Beach back on the East Coast late afternoon and move on to the Coromandel tomorrow.Leia mais
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