Kristofor Mallegrom
Long term travel enthusiast entering a new phase of travel with a young family of three boys ages 7, 5 and 1. Lue lisää🇦🇺Melbourne
  • There and Back Again

    24. syyskuuta, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We did it. I never thought this trip was going to be a picnic or walk through an open field. It was possibly more challenging and exhausting than I anticipated, but I'm so proud we pulled it off.
    I love the adventure, the thrill of exploring a new and different place. The prospect of finding something incredible, amongst the risk of getting lost, and finding the former without the indignity of the latter. I'm pleased I was able to not only guide Nat, but three young fellows around and never lose our way.

    Travelling solo is easy and free without the joy of sharing the experience with someone you love or care about. Travelling as a couple of adults brings companionship, but requires mutual consideration of the overall experience. Travelling as a family with (not one but three!) little ones involves massive restriction of movement, speed, access to restaurants, food options, activities and constant parenting on the go, in unfamiliar situations (and being outnumbered in that regard!). However, the upside is huge! If 70% of family travel is crying, complaining kids, repeating discipline and scolding, tending to the needs of others and not seeming to satisfy anyone, the 30% of upside is massive. Those moments you see the world through the eyes of happy, smiling, awestruck, impressed kids in a state of wonder, there's nothing quite like it.

    There are restrictions, we spent so much time looking for lifts, bins and seats. Nat's biggest gripe became the regular event of finally finding a lift in a labyrinth of a train station or attraction, only to find a queue of 20 perfectly able young individuals clogging it and making it inaccessible. By that virtue, we actually did end up carrying the pram up and down several flights of stairs. So many times it looked like just 10 or 12 steps, but it then repeated 4 of 5 times..
    The other most major restriction was eating. Ryland is fairly good at trying new things, and we picked up a whole bunch of weird and wacky things over the trip, but they often want their nuggets, their chips, their kids junk. It's one thing forcing them to try things, and we did, its another to waste your money, as they actually don't eat it, and then they're hungry, and grumpy. Fitting in restaurants was the other thing, especially in Tokyo where so many places were tiny single tables, bar stools, narrow little eateries. Personally, I love these, but they just don't really work with three kids 7 and under and a pram.. we were often turned away outright.. and a couple times we awkwardly forced the issue and felt we were too loud or difficult for the other occupants. Our hotels were all pretty good, but tighter than usual. Generally it was just a heap of beds in a tight space, the first two had cots but the last didn't making it hard for Zander to sleep. There wasn't really any couch or lounge or room to relax or unwind. In the past as an individual or with Nat, writing these blogs often became such a chore or so hard to do at the end of a busy day, with 3 kids it was even harder, and as a result I'm not sure the quality of writing or detail in here has been up to scratch with previous trips!

    Sure the kids were difficult on Nat and I a LOT of the time, I'm not sure how many times we had to repeat the same instructions and discipline attempts - 'Stand up, don't heckle the baby, mind your surroundings, don't touch'. Seeing it through their eyes though isn't just all the good stuff and wonderment, but also appreciating how challenging it was for them. For the most part, they met that challenge remarkably well. Especially Ryland and Zander by far exceeded my expectations with their mood, behaviour and resilience. Axel had a shocking start to the trip, sobbing for alot of the first few days before improving. He's going through a tricky, moody, stubborn, stroppy, regular tantrum pre-school phase right now. He is also overflowing with energy and literally can not sit still. Axel has a way bigger tank than Ryland, but when he gets down to 80%, he starts to whinge, he's tired, he's hungry. Ryland always tries to put his best foot forward and never complains he's tired until his battery is at 1%. Zander just took it all in his stride, his routine thrown to ribbons. He spent a lot of time in the pram, but often rode along on the edge of his seat, pointing, laughing and looking on with awe. He drew a LOT of attention from the locals, especially the ladies, and developed an amusing shy reaction to the attention, often burying his head in the pram.

    When travelling, I like to be busy, I generally plan things with a reasonable amount of precision but try leave flexibility for weather, energy etc. For this trip, with the kids, I tried to leave a little more than usual wiggle room, but it ended up being more fast paced and exhausting than I thought. Mainly due to the fact we only had 16 days. We covered a lot. We were generally on our feet, walking from 8am on average to probably 8pm. We tried to get food in whenever it fit, but often it was difficult to find or fit in places, and that went out the window. We spent a lot of time at Lawsons and Family Marts (7-11 equivalents) to stop up on snacks. We did have a few McDonalds breakfasts, just to get the kids full and going (and it was cheaper than a local place with eggs and toast), but don't feel we got the best overall food experience, as we weren't able to always get to the best option. We did get at least one or more serves of Tonkatsu, Curry, Ramen, Rice, Teppinyaki, Wagyu and Steaks.

    Man the weather wasn't part of the plan. The first 12 days or so, it was 30-35C every day, with often 80+% humidity. That sapped us. The last few days were a little cooler, and provided some relief. We generally dodged rain entirely, except for one downpour at Disneyland for an hour and a couple light showers.

    Our experience with the people of Japan was overall positive. Most smiled our way and gushed over the kids. Zander got the most goo-goo eyes. People were generally friendly, polite, kind and always trying to help. Many speak a little English, but I found it was overall less than I remembered last time. You can still always manage to get by. Locals often went out of their way to help us and I really appreciated that.

    Not that we needed a lot of help, for the most part nearly everything went according to plan, even when those plans were on the fly or changed on short notice. We never felt unsafe, out of our depth or lost, in part of course because of me, but more because its largely quite easy in Japan. The local trains in both Osaka and Tokyo are just exceptional, always running on time, and super regularly. Finding lifts and juggling kids added to the complexity, and immense crowds can be a little distracting on the senses, but its always fun getting around on the interchangeable coloured lines. You can just about walk anywhere and not worry about getting lost as there will be a train somewhere to get you back in any city. The bullet trains were a great experience for everyone.

    So all in all, what were the standouts for everyone? I thought I'd ask everyone and revisit my own memories to consider which were the best. Here's the result -

    Kristofor
    1. Disneyland. Having visited many of these, I always relished the prospect of doing it with kids and seeing the majesty of these parks though my kids eyes. This was awesome and the day went so well.
    2. Osaka Aquarium. A big win. Probably the best aquarium I've been to anywhere in the world and there's been plenty. Seeing whale sharks was pretty special.
    3. Universal Studios. Extremely hot day, huge crowds, but what a great place. Wasn't particularly friendly for Nat and Zander, but Ryland Axel and I went on many things and had a fantastic time.
    4. TeamLabs Space. Pretty unique, I'm not sure I've been anywhere quite like it. The light effects, water effects, a full experience for the senses. The kids loved it (but forget to include it in their top 5 haha).
    5. Tōdai-ji. It wasn't part of the plan for the tour I had booked, and I think this place stood out as the best cultural building of the trip for me. Huge and imposing, with the massive Buddha statue inside, this was special
    6. Sumo Wrestling. Was a great father son experience for Ryland and I. We timed it just right, staying right next to the arena when a tournament was on. Watched about 50 bouts, pretty unique!
    7. The Samurai Museum. Wasn't part of the plan either, but was a good find. The guide was absolutely brilliant and made it interesting for everyone.
    8. Disney Sea. It was still pretty good, a great way to start the trip. Queues were overwhelmingly long for some rides, restricting what we could do. Still got a lot done.
    9. Scrambling at Shibuya. Been before, but again its such a crazy place. Lights, ads and music everywhere. It was most memorable in the evening. Taking the boys one by one on my back or shoulders, including Zander, running back and forth over the world's busiest pedestrian crossing.
    10. A few memorable evening activities - The Tokyo Skytree offered a great view for us all in daylight, at dusk and in the dark, I loved my random solo trip to watch the J League soccer game in Osaka, and our best (and most expensive) family meal was definitely in Tokyo at Base.
    + I loved the food, culture and people of Japan. Seeing my kids get their first taste of something culturally different was very special. Wasn't a lot of opportunity to drink, go to bars or breweries or the best restaurants but I did pick up a fair few quality can craft brews. Alcohol is so cheap. Things are efficient, respect, common sense and discipline are important.
    - The heat for the first 10 days or so was a constant negative influence. Was a little underwhelmed by shopping options for a family. Lack of green space and anywhere to relax in the city.

    Natalie
    1. Osaka Aquarium
    2. Disneyland
    3. Tokyo SkyTree
    4. Team Labs Space
    5. Hilton Pool (Minus the fees!)
    6. Samurai and Ninja Museum
    7. Osaka Children's Museum
    + Its clean, safe. People are generally kind and try to help.
    - Crowds. The Heat. With family especially noted nowhere to sit, no bins, no green space, no parks in cities. Not super family friendly.

    Ryland
    1. Super Nintendo World at Universal Studios because it looked so real
    2. Samurai Museum because you could dress up as a Samurai.
    3. Disney Land because it had really amazing rides.
    4. Sumo Wrestling because they were using great skills to fight
    5. Disney Sea because of the water theme like the log ride
    + Ryland liked how Japanese people were really nice and friendly
    - Didn't like how busy it could be, especially all the queues we had to stand in (even for a Panda)

    Axel
    1. Aquarium because there were Whale Sharks
    2. Disney Sea because it had sea things
    3. Disney Land because of the Disney Castle
    4. The Samurai Museum because you can throw ninja stars
    5. The Bullet Train ride because it had tables you could do on the plane
    + The Japanese Toilets because they make you super clean
    - I didn't like the second hotel because all the beds were in a line and there was no bunk bed

    Zander
    1. Shibuya Crossing. Woooo. Ah. Ah! AH! (Pointing). Ooooo Dadad.
    2. Disneyland. He actually got on 5 or 6 rides here. Lots of crazy colours and noises and shiny things. Also resulted in overstimulation.
    3. Aquarium. Excited waving and smiling at the penguins and awe gaze at the big fishies.
    4. The toilet at Universal Studios because it talked and made 'exploding' noises. It's about the closest thing for a ride for 1 year old there.
    5. TeamLabs. Abababab! Pointing! Ah! It's all so shiny.
    + Everyone talks to me but it makes me shy. Everything is so shiny and sparkly.
    - It's hot. I have to be in the pram all the time. I'm fat and hungry.

    Well that's it, we counted the trip down for a year, and as expected, it passed by in the blink of an eye. I love that we got our foot in the door travelling as a family. If you've got young kids and want a challenge you'll relish and remember for ever, dive in and do it. It's exposed everyone to so much and created so many memories and so much experience. Next time it'll (probably) be easier for everyone. Possibly a small domestic trip next year, and who knows what will after that for our next family overseas adventure.
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  • Once more into the Fray

    23. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We woke for our final morning in Japan. Still a final expedition planned before we head home. We're all tired. Zander in particular has struggled for rest at this final hotel without a cot. Instead hes on a queen bed, fenced in with a poor makeshift barricade.
    Whether hes a little unwell, teething or just overstimulated, who knows.
    The trips been excellent and im proud weve met such a challenge so well, but I think we all need a breather. Its such an adjustment for the kids, and well us all. Family travel brings huge upside, but huge restrictions and encumbrances.
    We checked out at 10am, left our luggage and headed out once more onto the JR metro. The agenda, malls and shopping around Tokyo central station, then a walk to the Imperial Palace, to make it back to the hotel for an airport transfer by 4pm.
    It was all a bit of a wash. The malls were all super underwhelming. Feels like weve been to a half dozen, mostly up market women's fashion.. KITTE, Tokyo Diamaru, Tokyo Midtown.. I mean some of those Takashimaya malls feel like theyre laced with gold and wed be arrested for entering. We didnt find much around Shinjuku or Shibuya yesterday either.
    We're so sick of looking for lifts, carrying the pram up and down stairs, not being able to fit our party or pram in restaurants, telling the kids to keep their hands to themselves, looking for a seat or bin.
    After a couple hours wandering around the same stores today I called it and reset our course for the Imperial Palace via the East National Gardens. You cant actually enter the Palace here but the gardens were fairly pretty I guess.
    We spent an hour or two here to wrap up our Tokyo experince and returned to the hotel at Ryogoku via a quick coffee shop lunch where our 4pm transfer was waiting at 345.
    The requested 1yo child seat was pretty big for Axel so Zander had to free range it annoyingly and illegally between Nat and I.
    We arrived at Narita around 5pm for a 830 flight. Its a pretty good airport, and its limited shopping options beat any mall we'd visited. We picked up a few things, managed some playground time and a snack for us all, by which time we were still rushed to board. It was pretty chaotic. Its a packed flight and I think theres 9 infants aboard.
    The boys are all asleep, even Zander for now. Little chunkyboy still JUST fits in the bassinet with minimal rolls overflowing.
    All went rather well though and as I type this its around 130am. We passed some islands an hout ago, who knows where.
    I cant sleep on planes. Nat and I are gonna be exhausted for a while. I watched a terrible movie called Companion, and this Game of Thrones soundtrack is worse than season 8.
    Overall, I still reflect with pride on the achievement of this trip and memories we made.
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  • Into the West

    22. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Four neighbouring destinations on the agenda today, on the far, west side of Tokyo.
    By the time we were up and out, it was around 9am. We stopped for a fast food breakfast to get happy tummies for the boys for a full day.
    First stop, about a half hour west from Ryogoku on the yellow line was Shinjuku, one of the busiest train stations in the world.
    It was a trip down memory lane for Nat and I. Our last visit to Japan ended here at City Century Southern Tower with one of the best rooms I've stayed at.
    We passed right by here on our way to Takashimaya Times Square. Now, this was a bizarre experience. We just rolled up here to explore the area but got ushered and roped into their bizarre 1030am opening ritual..a massive queue... to access their primary department store.. and beyond.. we didn't even care or want to see it, but there was no choice or turning back... then it was 'ah get your sleeping baby out of pram, your queue is now going down the escalator'.
    After 12 minutes after all that, we were ready to move on. A 20-minute or so walk to Meiji Jingu Shrine, in a vast forest garden in the heart of Tokyo. I hadn't been here before, the garden was huge, the forest was sense, creating almost total shade.
    The shrine itself was OK, swarmed with tourists and the associated gimmicks. Throwing money in a box to say a 'prayer' always seemed strange to me, to trivialise any genuine spiritual element to it all. The shrine was nice enough.
    Onwards from there, walking through the garden took us to the border of Harajaku. We tortured around before finding the main drag here, Takeshita Street. It's a wacky, quirky street full of bizarre vendors, youth culture, and street fashion. You never quite know what to expect here, various foods, capybara and mini pig cafes, vending machine varieties, pumping music, flashing lights, and more.
    The kids enjoyed the novelty and picked up some vending machine toys.
    From here, we continued southward from Harajaku to Shibuya. It was about 30 minutes or so walk, but plenty of buildings and shops to stop at on the way.
    Geez, we've found it hard finding food options in Tokyo.. first, ones with space, second with food the kids will eat, third that are reasonably priced and finally that can seat a family of 5 with a pram. It leads to delays getting fed, often leading to desperate or non preferred choices. We ended up having a late 'lunch' around Shibuya at a German beer cafe around 3 pm.
    We explored the Shibuya and Shibuya Scramble Mall area for a couple of hours before dusk. It's such an intense, hectic, crowded area. Thousands of people, along with giant ads, loud music, flashing lights. It's a bombardment on the senses. Im still not sure Zander has 'come down' from the sensory overload. When night hits, it all gets intensified.
    After jointly and individually carrying each of the boys (including Zander) over the scramble crossing half a dozen times, we were ready to ride the waves of crowds back to our hotel in Ryogoku via 40min of green and yellow train lines.
    We opted to finish up with uber eats local delivery to top off our dinner needs and give is time to start packing for tomorrow. We still have a final big day ahead before our evening flight back home.
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  • Spontaneity and Sumo

    21. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    A spontaneous, unplanned morning ahead. Ryland and I have a Sumo Tournament to attend in the afternoon, Monday is (sorta) planned, but we have a gap this morning. Axel wanted the 'Ham Cheese Toastie' the hotel offered so OK lets do that and.. 'searching for different ideas' the.. uh.. Tsukiji Hongan-ji Temple about half hour away in Chuo City.
    This worked out well enough, a short walk, a couple trains, and we were thereabouts exploring a new neighbourhood and interesting, different style 17th century Buddhist Temple. The complex was a little strange around, felt like a hospital, but once we got inside the temple proper, Ryland and Axel were engaged with the prayers, announcements, and music underway. Photos forbidden inside, we chatted a while with the staff, then the boys and I sat for a while and watched silently the service and prayers within.
    We made a random path through a garden and park towards another station to get us back a little haphazardly to our hotel vicinity in Ryogoku, also the location of the sumo arena.
    It was great to sit in a park awhile among trees, taking a breather, letting the boys play. Man our pace has been high, just trying to ride it the way home with momentum.
    Back on the train, we picked up a takeaway lunch, before Ryland and I set off as a duo towards Ryogoku Kokugikan Sumo Arena by 2pm. After a short lesson about sumo history, tradition, the rules and tournament, we were headed inside to our seats to watch. Fascinating, we probably sat through 30-40 bouts, with lower divisons/ranks in the afternoon, followed by the top ranked from 5-6ish. Ryland and I also took some time to explore the arena and museum and he picked up a little sumo fortune figure. Better luck this time for the little man with a great fortune!
    The afternoon got a little slow atimes, but it was quite the experience. By 615pm wed walked back to our hotel to rejoin with Nat Axel and Zander for dinner.
    Geez, finding dinner for 5 with kids and a pram in Tokyo ain't easy. I felt wed not had enough exposure to the wagyu and Teppanyaki field, so after trawling through restaurants, again, we found a place called Base.
    Its reviews are great, but its a narrow stair entry that won't fit the pram. What to do? Im in first to scout, check for an English menu and see if our cumbersome needs can be met.
    Its a classy establishment, quiet, tasteful with 4 staff in the kitchen to great me. Family of 5..?... ah.. over there at your only 4 seater? Yes ok Ill get them. Up.we go, kids first with a grand entry, Nat carrying a baby, me dropping full drink bottles everywhere on the stairs fron a folded pram.
    We got in though, got going, got cooking and tried to restore some state of elegance and decorum to the establishment, slowly getting close, the boys loud from excitement as make shift chefs cooking their own meat. There were a few sets of dropped cutlery, and some chef pointers on cooking techniques but we got through it all.
    It may have ended up being our most expensive meal but it was almost certainly the best of the trip. Excellent service too.
    Just 10 minutes or so walk back in drizzling rain, via a Lawsons supermarket for dessert, and we were back by 9pm.
    Just two sleeps remain, but weve still got a couple big days ahead and plenty to do.
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  • Culture and a View

    20. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Out on foot for some culture this morning. First though, breakfast. Flapjack Jack's didn't work for us last time due to crowds and spacial restraints but being in thr general vicinity of todays route, we thought we'd give it another go. Success!
    We folded the pram and squeezed in for three pancake sets; 2 blueberry jam and one plain with maple syrup plus a couple juices!
    Then onwards for a 30minute morning walk north towards the Samurai and Ninja museum. This was an excellent small group guided tour that gave a presentation about the history of Samurai, and detailed information about sumarai armour, weapons, traditions and ninja. The guide made it, keeping Nat and the boys thoroughly engaged. The tour was topped off with a ninja throwing experience for everyone, including the kids. Nat was the best at it! That wasn't all, the boys and I also got to try on a bunch of Samurai armour.
    This took us to lunchtime and a delicious ramen experience for us all.
    From here, a short walk to the Sensō-ji Temple, Tokyos oldest temple. Sadly, the area has been ravaged by tourism, and is now overwhelmed with food traffic and a long tacky marketplace to get to the main building itself. The boys both threw in 100yen for a fortune, a good result for Axel, not so for a gutted Ryland.
    Moving on, we'd continue our hike towards the Tokyo Skytree and Solamachi Mall attached by about 2pm. We purchased sunset tickets (5pm) for the skytree, giving us plenty of time to explore the area. The mall was a little underwhelming, more crowded than interesting, little shops of interest. Exhausted, we stopped a while at a tapas-like restaurant for refreshments and a light, overpriced dinner. We found a playground area too little too late (430pm due to return for skytree) and the most random animal 'centre' called 'Lovely Animore". Hold on, do my eyes deceive me, is that a sloth and.... a toucan?!?! In plain few. Id wanted so long to find a toucan to show the boys. We didnt have time to pay entry, and any initial wonder and excitement was soon replaced with sorrow. I thought the Ueno zoo was a bit dicey for animal welfare... hey, this place looked the Nara Deer look they were living the dream. How are places like this allowed to operate, rare animals looking malnourished, terrified, mistreated, bored, in boxes or confined spaces. Check the google reviews if you dare.
    The trip up the Skytree was awesome. Visibility was a LITTLE limited with rain and some fog, but you could still see alot and really appreciate how vast just a portion of Tokyo is. We enjoyed the view in daylight, and dark as lights progressively illuminated the cityscape. Our ticket puchase took us to not only the first observation deck on 450, but the Galleria 100m up as well. That one had a quirky toy story exhibition also which added to the excitement for the kids.
    Finally, we wrapped up, headed down and decided tp metro it back to within 10m walk of the hotel. We'd covered quite some ground on foot!
    Tomorrow's plans are a little unsure for the morning, but Ryland and I will be going to a sumo tournament in the evening.
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  • Animals & Electronics

    19. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Ah, relief from the Japan heatwave, finally. A temporate morning, around 25c with minimum humidity and a morning breeze.
    We're just riding the edge atm with fortune, fatigue, morale. Zander doesn't have a cot at this hotel, so instead the hotel hired us two mini bed barriers and a random folding chair which don't fully incase our little bulldozer. Well last night he wasn't interested in alot of dozing, waking up to party from 130am to around 430am, and the second he was done, Axel decided to descend.
    We tried to start the day with a well regarded pancake breakfast place, just 15min walk, but of course it had minimal/ non suitable seating and was overcrowded. We had to settle for mini Waffles at a nearby coffee shop.
    Our primary destination was Ueno Zoo. Just a handful of stops on the metro. It was a bittersweet attraction. Before dad suddenly died a bit over 3 months ago, today was the day we were supposed to meet both he and mum to all tour the zoo together. I did make sure to at least give mum a video call on site to chat with the boys.
    It was a jekyll and Hyde, hit and miss kind of zoo. The range of animals was incredible, Polar bears, Japanese black bears, Hokkaido Brown Bears, Pandas, Spoonbills, Condors, Chameleons, Pangolin and a whole bunch of exotic, rare or unheard of creatures I'd never seen. The obvious setback was enclosures for some of the larger animals.. the Elephants lay bored to death, Giraffe sad in a plain, gravel enclosure smaller than a tennis court and Rhino pacing a tiny, empty cage. Many animals looked sad and bored. It wasn't quite the Deer of Nara but not far off.
    Incredibly, there was a 40 minute wait to see the panda.. im not sure I've queued like a Disney ride to see an animal at a zoo before. Was it worth it? Probably not, but we did it anyway. We spent probably 5+ hours there, catching the short train to Akihabara Electric Town around 5pm. The boys were on the hunt for a special Action figure from Japan. Alot of the action figures here seemed somewhat inappropriate for young lads, a little more promiscuous and sexualised than they were after.. but they saw plenty of things. Eventually we found what they were after and they both left happy, Ryland with Luke Skywalker and Axel a Ghostbusters Transformer.
    To finish the evening, we ordered Tonkatsu via Uber while I watched the last two thirds of the Hawks preliminary final on my phone.
    The food was better than the entertainment on this occasion. Four sleeps, three and a half loosely planned days remain. Let's see what tomorrow brings.
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  • Return to Tokyo

    18. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    No rest or respite from yesterday, today was moving day. We were half packed from last night and Zander set the alarm this morning, rising and shining around 630.
    We pulled our luggage together, checked out, left our bags at reception and tried to return to a breakfast place we'd visited lately. They turned us away, presumably due to lack of space but it was a little strange. We returned for our backs and hungrily made our way to Shin Osaka station. We set up outside the Shinkansen bullet train gate and I grabbed us a Maccas breakfast around 10am.
    Geez travelling with a family is a mixed bag. It has huge upside, seeing things through kids eyes, their wonder, their comic relief, their innocence. Geez kids can make travel hard, inconvenient, expensive and wholly tedious. With 3, ones either hot, hungry, tired, bored, wants a toy, is fighting or antagonising another child, wants a toy, is sobbing, talking to themselves, is grabbing something, getting in the way, getting themselves hurt or a combination of many of these. They necessitate and excess of space, slow the pace and in our case require a pram and disability access.
    Finding lifts in Japan isn't fun. They are scarce. Its worse when they're blocked or filled by 20somethings with no bags in apparent good health who cbf using 12 stairs that have defeated our wheels. We've carried the pram up and down dozens of stairs but full cargo makes it an obstacle.
    Axel, a typical 4yo has been particularly difficult this trip. He can't sit still, is easily bored and cannot keep his hands idle. Rylands shown keen interest and resilience. He fights and tries until his battery hits 5%, then capitulates, still saying he's "fine", looking like a corpse. Axel has a huge tank, but little resilience. When his battery hits 90%, he's sobbing and whinging its not easy.
    Zander has arguably performed the best, spending huge time in the pram, irregular naps and meals, still nearly always smiling, waiting patiently and pointing.
    The trio wasn't particularly fun today, the Shinkansen were uncharacteristically delayed all over our platform 25 from Shin Osaka to Tokyo. The bullet itself was fine, we got trapped and turned around more than usual due mostly to our luggage, wheels and pram.
    Our final spot for the next 5 nights is at Fav Tokyo Ryogoku, in Ryogoku. Were on the 12th (second top) floor with a great view of the river and east Tokyo.
    Weve two queen beds with bunks atop for the boys. One of those been made/barricaded into a makeshift cot for Zander. Wed checked in by 4 and unpacked by 5. The room is pretty modern, with great lighting, though lacking storage and surprisingly dusty.
    Starving we set out for dinner 530. I checked some options near the station and we set off optimistic. It would be a disappointment evening. My tonkatsu choice was too small and crowded to accommodate a family of 5 with pram. This trend would continue all night. Its a combo off too many people, a pram, too busy, zero pricing/english on menus, nothing the kids will eat and the kids fighting, sooking or hurting themselves. We tried at least 3 places that turned us away for no space, and countless others weren't right. We had to settle for a disapointing option.
    Onwards and upwards, plenty to do between tomorrow (Friday) and when we depart on Tuesday. Thankfully appears the weather is cooling and humidity dropping. Planning nearby zoo and Akihabara Electric Town tomorrow.
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  • A Big Day at USJ

    17. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Today was a big one. Up at 630. Out by 7. At Universal Studios before opening time at 830.. along with thousands of people. Even this early, the was beating down relentlessly, baking us.
    We eventually passed through the gates and finally into the park. A little initial confusing accessing the Super Nintendo World area of the park, which generally requires separate timed reservations. There didnt appear to be anyway to do this via mobile, staff waving us through "its free, free". Given everyone had the same idea and the crowds were already massive, we thought we'd come back later. The boys (Ryland and Axel) and I headed straight for Jurassic Park the ride first, to get it done before crowds. It was the main we'd all looked forward to, a splashdown water adventure. We all loved sailing around, seeing all the different dinos, escaping the raptors and trex, before the ride stopped, and seemed to malfunction, right at the top of the final drop. Not ideal but we passed unscathed.
    We noticed that return to Super Nintendo World now required a time reservation. We booked an immediate one, but its nonreturns, and wed spend the next few hours here crammed in to get the attractions done.
    Unfortunately for Zander there wasn't much 1yo-friendly adventures for him at this park. Ryland Axel and I got through the following -
    - Yoshis Adventure (60min wait) A rather underwhelming, slow, flat, 5min loop. No idea why Zander couldnt ride or it warned of fear of heights, fast movement or causing preterm labour... of boredom?
    - DK Mine Cart Madness (Around 2hour wait) A fast, mine cart adventure through a temple to find the golden banana. Probably the fastest ride either Ryland and Axel had done and they both genuinely loved it.
    - Mario Kart: Koopas Challenge (Around 80min wait), you slap on headgear and 3D goggles and spin around steering and trying to collect 100 coins. I though I got 116 but apparently we still failed the race. It was OK.
    We escaped Super Nintendo World just in time for the Waterworld show at 3pm. Hard to follow the story being all Japanese, but still a great stunt show of good guys vs bad guys, with waterski stunts, machine guns, rocket launcher fire and massive explosions. ALL the boys were intrigued and loved this, including little Zander, clapping pointing and laughing.
    Via a Jurassic Park themed snack/refreshment we continued on to Minion Land, by around 4pm where we could all get on Illuminations Villain-Con Minion Blast (30min wait). This slow shooter ride could accommodate prams, moving along a slow travelator while shooting bad guys.
    Zander had no idea what was going on but loved the colours. Nat picked up the high score on this one!
    Next it was back to me and the boys for the
    Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem ride (40min wait). This wasn't bad a 3d glasses, moving vehicle adventure that seemed to rock and tilt more than say Star Tours and Disneyland. As we headed towards Elmos Kids land with Zander in mind, announcements over the park PA. "Warning in 10minutes, at 6pm zombies will be released around the park. Mind your kids or seek zombie-free zones. You may get wet". The last part was a little weird, with warnings of zombie-induced wetness, but Ryland and Axel were quite excited to see Zombies, a park Halloween themed event.
    As the clock struck 6, we were actually right at the middle of the Hollywood area where they were released. The kids enthusiasm quickly faded. Loud Japanese announcements of
    .. someone running fron zombies... screaming.. then sounds of... disembowelling, evisceration, gurgling? Loud horror music, zombies stumble out of buildings... in clown costumes? Recurring Loud sounds of roaring, footage on screen of zombies mauling people? Ryland in particular was terrified. We left the roaring behind for the pleasant childrens music and voice overs of Elmo. No zombies could reach us here. Unfortunately for Ryland many rides here have the age range of 3-6, so he was actually too old and there was still little for Zander! Nat took them on a hot air balloon ride, and Axel was unjustifiably awarded a drivers licence for causing traffic chaos on a mini car ride.
    Even indoors Elmos Bubble Bubble ride, was too 'hardcore' for Zander. Ryland lied about his age to get on a slide.
    The plan was to finish with taking Ryland and Axel on the Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey ride, but read that Axel wasn't tall enough, and Ryland was too scared to go out with zombies around, so I ran off next door and did that area solo around 7pm. It was probably around an hour wait but the area, even queue were zo good it flew by. The ride itself was easily the best of the day. You're suspended in a moving upright seat that rocks, turns and tilts you around a track, passing through rooms with 3D and others with effects, escaping a dragon and death eaters?
    I returned to the family, to carry Ryland past zombies and head towards some souvenir shopping. Spontaneously the zombies went from roaring and menacing, to dancing which took the edge off.
    We finally headed out around 9pm (before 930 close) getting to the train home just before rain started to drizzle.
    We picked up a few supermarket snacks for dinner before turning in, all of us exhausted.
    It was a great Park, but just extremely overcrowded with annoying long waits (even on a Weds) and had very little for young children.
    Tonight would be our final sleep in Osaka, with tomorrow being a travel day, hauling our things back to Tokyo via bullet train for the final third of our trip.
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  • A Whale of a Time

    16. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    After a huge day yesterday, and couple big ones ahead, a moderate sleep in until 830 today. The boys are holding up fairly well, Zander with mild conjunctivitis and Ryland a mild version of what Axel had, but overall OK.
    First up breakfast nearby, we found a nice spot for toast, french toast and boiled eggs.
    Feeding the kids has been a little challenging at times. We're been gathering snacks, treats and fillers from Family Marts and Lawsons. The kids are happy with regulation meats, fried chicken, sausages etc at restaurants. Theyre fairly happy to try new things sometimes but rarely enjoy it. Theres been too many pancakes and chicken nuggets consumed. Rylands really giving the chopsticks a go!
    Todays main destination would be the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, about 30minutes away by metro.
    Again, the sun was beating down at 34c. Its not really the sun that burns, it hasnt much so far, but suffocates you with humidity.
    The aquarium area was nice, with a giant ferris wheel and waterfront mall.
    We secured tickets for a 1245 entry and in we went. What a fantastic attraction for us all. A huge complex, you catch a giant escalator to level 8 then slowly wind your way down around a giant central tank (with plenty of side exhibits). Ryland and Axel picked up a stamp passport each and had a lot of fun finding stamps throughout the place. Inside the huge central tank, hundreds of fish, rays, sharks, crabs, an octopus, turtles and most impressive a few huge whale sharks.. definitely the biggest fish ive seen in a tank.
    We shared a giant 8 inch 'eel' themed hotdog to keep hunger at bay and spent around 3 hours here, also enjoying penguins, dolphins, coati and seals.
    Zander loved the aquarium as much as any of us, on the edge of his seat, laughing, pointing and screeching with excitement.
    After that, a return to the hotel to get some prepacking done (two nights in Osaka remain), and a bit of rest before dinner and tomorrow's big day to Universal Studios.
    We had dinner out at a Teppanyaki restaurant, cooking up beef, pork, corn, peppers, mushroom, sausages and sweet potato. The boys enjoyed it, but like most things, made it a little more challenging.
    Ryland is looking a little flat and tired. Lets hope he carries on as he has.
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  • Oh Deer

    15. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    An hour drive then, to the final stop in Nara. The attraction here was meant to be feeding and petting deer. I mean there was initially some novelty in seeing deer scattered randomly around a town (in train stations, sidewalks, flower gardens, the road..) but that soon wore thin and turned to sadness really. They looked sad, and sick, and disheveled. Some looked mentally impaired, one smashing his head against a tree. Many looked more like they longed for a merciful end then the happy cartoon images around the town. I felt they should be treated, not exploited.
    None of us were touching, nevermind feeding the hoarde of sad creatures. Especially hearing recently of tick infections carried by deer, causing human fatalities. Escaping this, meant we rushed to the ticket booth of Todaiji Temple.
    Until recently, Todaiji's main hall, the Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall), held the record as the world's largest wooden building, despite the fact that the present reconstruction of 1692 is only two thirds of the original temple hall's size. The massive building houses one of Japan's largest bronze statues of Buddha. The entire complex was seriously impressive. The kids were awestruck.
    Sadly, the trip back took longer than expected going back via Kyoto to get us in Osaka by 820. That left another 25min walk back to the hotel via a quick dinner. A big but memorable day for us all.
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  • Land of the Rising & Roasting Sun

    15. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    35 degrees. 80% humidity. It was 30 when we left the room at 7am, and its 29 now, at 10.30pm. The merciless heat continues. So do our adventures though and today was a big one.
    We were up by 620 for a 750am bus tour of Kyoto and Nara. With the train and walk times both around 25minutes, we opted to just head out on foot, giving some time to find our way and grab breakfast on the go.
    We found the tour pickup point without too much trouble, about 15 tourists here, and 25 to pick up in Kyoto. The bus was comfy and cool, we were assigned 4 seats in row 10.
    The tour itinerary consisted of four main attractions throughout the day -
    1. Kyoto Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji)
    2. Kyoto Arashiyama & Bamboo Forest
    3. Kyoto 1000 gates Fushimi Inari Taisha
    4. Nara and 'Feeding/Petting the Deer'
    First stop the Golden Pavilion. We had brought the stroller, but turned out it was really only usable at one stop. Nat would carry the sack of potatoes Zander in a harness and I'd wrangle the other two and carry a backpack.
    We had about 45 minutes at the golden pavilion, a relatively short circuit by the main attraction, set picturesque on a lake, surrounded by forest.
    Next, twenty minutes or so to Arashiyama. We headed straight up the street to the Bamboo Forest itself. A nice shaded, peaceful spot, if you could ignore the swarms of tourists. The Bamboo trunks seem to almost envelope you snd shroud the sky.
    Whilst much of the group paid for a set lunch reservation, we went our own way to further explore the area and cross the river Katsura.
    There was a nice bridge here where we spotted heron, a turtle, and tried crab sticks, some fried chicken and croquettes from a street vendor.
    The next stop was the 1000 gates or Fushimi Inari Taisha. It was 15 minutes or so from the bus to start of the gate climb, where we had about an hour to spend. Not enough time to carry a sack of baby to the summit, but enough to pass through plenty of gates and see some temples.
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  • Exploring Osaka

    14. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Our first full day together in Osaka! It was a warm one. 34c and 80% humidity. We were up and out around 9, stopping into a small local cafe for breakfast. The boys shared pancakes eggs and ham, and we had crossaints with egg and a lot of mustard sauce? Not bad. Onwards to Osaka castle, about 30min or so on the metro. The train lines in Osaka vary immensely, from trams, monorails, full seated to mostly standing. Theres still a spattering of English, but it seems a fair bit less than Tokyo.
    We got our way to the castle gardens for our first fewe of the towering Osaka castle. Impressive first tske for sure. Through the outer wall, gate, square and another gate, to inner wall that leads to the castle courtyard. Its busy, hot, the air is thick and punishing. Theres a 45 minute wait to get inside, but why not, we're here. We buy tickets, check the pram in, and begin the 8 storey stair climb. No issues there, but a little underwhelmed with the interior. I mean I knew Osaka castle had been destroyed and restored but I expected SOME historical recreation within. There was none, justva museum. Some decent artefacts, scrolls, paintings, stories and armour, but expected a bit more.
    Unfortunately when we picked up the pram, we found it was now invaded by legions of ants. Not ideal.
    After an ant destruction delay we had a bit of a hike back to the trains, everyone getting hot n hungry, we found a random local cafe, and stopped in for lunch around 2pm. We navigated the trains to the kids choice, the Osaka childrens museum by around 3pm.
    Its basically a 5 storey playground/scienceworks with loads of exploring, games, ladders, tunnels, slides and activities.
    All the boys loved it but especially Ryland, relentlessly running amok like a kid in a candy store.
    We escaped here on the buzzer of closing around 5 and made our way hotel-ward, or as Axel has been saying in a weird old time southern prospector voice "ho-tay-alllll".
    After a grocery shop and half hour downtime, we geared up in collars (and bowties for some) to explore the Osaka tower (or Tsutenkaku) area just outside our hotel. A fairly impressive, vibrant, lively area at night, dozens of ads, restaurants, vending machines, lights, crowds and music to immerse in.
    We wondered awhile before picking a little place on the outskirts called 'Shogun' for Okonomiyaki dinner, with some skewers, juices and beers. Great little place.
    That'll do it for the day the boys were down by 9 and we're winding up for a big day ahead tomorrow, our sole organised tour to Kyoto and Nara.
    Weve finished a full week Monday to Sunday in Japan. I'm sure we're going to love the next one and a bit to come.
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  • A Bulky Family Bullet to Osaka

    13. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Whew that was rough. One thing to make the journey for two with packs in the heat, but with back and front packs, a pram, a wheelie bag and 3 little ones, it was a real challenge. We pulled it off though, which was super satisfying.
    A big challenge we've always tried to avoid was too many wheels. People say theres stairs everywhere and lifts can be hard to find. Both are mostly true. The biggest issue was not so much finding them, but getting on them. The lifts were often tiny, and often there were huge queues to use them. Hard to avoid with a baby in a pram.
    We checked out from Hilton Tokyo Bay and piled on a free shuttle to Miahama JR station.
    Then I managed to arrange a child Suica (like Myki) for Ryland which requires his passport to acquire. This makes it easier to to get around without buying him paper tickets. Itll work in Osaka too.
    We caught the red line from Miahama to Tokyo Central. From there we navigated huge crowds and giant queues for scarce lifts to find our bullet train to Shin-Osaka.
    We got there and 5 of us piled into 3 seats ahead of the well needed extra luggage space. Occupied with lunch, a bento box and activities we all made the 2.5 hour trip relatively well. From there, it was a matter of finding the way to our new hotel. About 30mins south by local rail, and a very sweaty 15min walk and we were finally there at Eslead Namba South III by about 430pm. We have a nice simple apartment-ish room on level 10. Great views of the Osaka tower and neigbourhood with a line of beds, cots, small kitchenette, laundry and bathroom.
    I spontaneously decided to set the tired family up with supplies and venture out about an hour solo to watch a J League Game; Gamba Osaka vs the Urawa Redwings. Getting on the metro and monorail to get "close-ish" wasnt the issue, but the path to actually get there was something else... what a labyrinth to get to the Panasonic Stadium Suica.
    What an atmosphere getting there. You could hear the crowd from miles away. I arrived a few minutes late for the 7pm kickoff, at the wrong side of the ground so my seat was occupied by the time I got there but I made do nearby. The stadium was packed and bouncing. The game wasnt too much of a thrill, but there was a cracking late winner for the home side 1-0.
    I managed to get negotiate the hour+ trip back with a flat phone battery by about 1015.
    Tomorrow, we'll explore Osaka.
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  • Rest & Recovery

    12. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    We were relieved to have our rest, recover and recharge day today. Its been an experience so far. Tremendously full on, exhausting but so rewarding with the adventures and memories we're creating.
    Today, in the end we didn't leave the hotel complex. We slept in (well, til 8), rolled down to breakfast and browsed the shops and supermarkets downstairs, grabbing some takeaway sandwiches and fruit for lunch later.
    Then we decided today was the (probably only) day to try get a swim in. I knew now, after the difficulties Id had with this booking, it was going to come at some (exorbitant) cost.
    We booked the hotel in January. In April the hotel finalised a fee system for the pool. Despite protests by email and in person they imposed this on us. 5000¥ (approx $50aud) per adult, thankfully they did not charge Ryland. On top of that, use of pool floatables was extra..
    Sometimes, you've gotta just reluctantly pay (overs) for experiences and/or convenience, even if it feels a wrought or unfair.
    Sonon this occasion we did, and had a great time at a really nice pool. Given storms and rain about, and a temporary closure before we registered, we had it all to ourselves most of the time. The kids loved sailing a jumbo inflatable duck and riding a little inflatable police car around the place. The onsen spa was extra again, separate, separate gendered and looked simple so we skipped it.
    We spent the remainder of the afternoon rearranging our luggage for tomorrow and then booked uber eats for dinner with Crispy Chicken Tomato. I grabbed some craft local beers from downstairs and organised an online pass to watch the AFL semi between the Hawks and Crows.
    That went well all round.
    What didn't, is discovering Zander has conjunctivitis. Lucky we cane prepared for that. Hes still powering on OK.
    Tomorrow, we're moving to Osaka by bullet with a caravan of luggage. Its going to be a challenge.
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  • The Magic of Disneyland

    11. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    Disneyland Day! Since first becoming a father, and even with every prior Disneyland visit, I imagined how beautiful it would be to see it through my childs eyes. Today Id experience that.
    The major concern today was the weather forecast. The heat and humidity is one thing, but this afternoon, from noon we were looking at 90% chance of 3mm per hour of rain.
    After another buffet breakfast, we were off on the Disney monorail circuit to our destination by about 915am.
    Slightly bigger line than DisneySea, but not too bad. I decided to make a beeline straight for the Star Wars ride for Rylands sake. No wait, Ryland, Axel and I walked straight to the front for our first ride of the day, a seated 3D virtual moving shuttle through the Star Wars Universe.
    I focused on the outdoor rides to beat the forecasted storm and showers. I took Ryland on the two most adult/adventurous rides, Big Thunder Mountain (train roller coaster) and Splash Mountain (log ride), though the latter was a real squeeze for me to fit, having to fold my legs at unnatural angles. I managed to negotiate a swap for Splash Mountain so Nat and Axel could get on.
    The queues today seemed way less prohibitive than DisneySea. We avoided hour queues and pretty much got on everything. Over the day we got on the following rides -
    - Star Tours (Ryland and Axel 4x ea, Kris 3x, Nat 1x)
    - Pirates of the Caribbean (Ryland 2x, Nat, Kris, Axel once each)
    - BigThunder Mountain (Ryland and Kris)
    - Splash Mountain (Ryland Kris Axel & Nat)
    - Roger Rabbit Ride (Everyone incl. Zander)
    - Pinnochios Adventure (Everyone incl. Zander)
    - Its a Small World (Kris Ryland Axel)
    - Monsters Inc. (Everyone incl. Zander)
    - Beauty & the Beast (Everyone incl. Zander).
    Zander joined us on a huge amount today! Though many gave him a sense of paralysing stimulus overload, he was never bothered, always inquistive and excited at the props, lights and sounds around him. Little Zander has been incredible thus far, with his routine, food supply, naps and environment totally different and in disarray. For the most part, he never complaints and maintains his happy, energetic, charming persona. The locals have loved our kids, especially Zander with his big eyes, chunkyboy rolls and thic thunder thighs.
    Im fairly sure 9 months from now, Japan is going to have a population boom, all thanks to Zander.
    Today, thankfully, the storm held off until 3pm. When it hit, it hit hard. Thunder and lighting forewarned of the inevitable downpour that seemed to soak the surface in 5minutes, leaving ankle deep puddles aplenty. We ponchoed-up and sheltered beside the Pinnochio ride. I decided to whisk Ryland and Axel across the way 100m to simultaneously shelter and torture them with the 'its a Small World' ride. Geez that ride is just as dated as annoying as my first encounter with it decades ago.
    By the time the ride was over the storm had subsided and barely an hour after its onset, it had disappeared entirely.
    The afternoon and evening played out well, and we were actually finished up in earnest really by around 7, leaving us time for repeat rides and to squeeze in the Monsters Inc ride.
    Overall we all found Disneyland a much better experience than DisneySea. Id initially scheduled yesterday as the rest day but I think we're all pleased to have tomorrow to recover. It looks like Axel MAY have had 'Hand Foot and Mouth" illness since the eve before our flight, causing him to sob 80% of the trip so far. He finally seems on the mend.
    Tomorrow, we can rest, recover, repack, maybe get a swim in, and prepare to catch a bullet train from Tokyo to Osaka.
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  • Beyond Tokyo Bay

    10. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Much to my relief, everyone pulled up pretty well from the busy schedule and punishing heat since arrival in Japan.
    Today was (pretty much) the only day Id set as free to recover/adjust from arrival. It was a float day to allow some flexibility or recovery if needed.
    After breakfast and a wander about the hotel shopping promenade we had to decide whether to stick or twist - stay relax and recover, or head out and save recovery for Friday. Ultimately, with todays weather good, Disneyland booked for tomorrow and rain forecast ahead we decided to carry momentum, press on and save rest for later.
    Todays primary destination would be TeamLabs. I booked tickets online and we head off to embrace the broader Japanese metro.
    Our destination via Odaiba Bay/ Rainbow Park and Aqua City Odaiba Shopping district set us scrambling over many JR Rail lines; Disney Resort (black), Keiyo Line (red), Rinkai Line (blue) and Yurakucho Line (brown).
    The Odaiba Bay/beach front area was nice enough. A sandy bay with a boardwalk and loads of jumping/flying fish! We stopped here for dumplings and kids meals for lunch. TeamLabs, booked for 4pm was incredible. What a place. I had high hopes and wasn't at all disapointed. From light art displays, winding corridors, illusions, wading through water, jumping or having your drawings come to life, it was a memorable place Im sure we all enjoyed. With the kids wearing thin, we just went simple with a Japanese Maccas experience on the way home.
    Tomorrow, Disneyland. On we go. The boys have been mostly good so far.. moreso Ryland and Zander. Axel has been constantly difficult, sooking, being rude, not listening, acting foolishly getting himself hurt or in trouble time, and time again.
    So far I feel the trip is 70% difficult, hot, sweaty, Axel misbehaving, packing, repacking, toilet stops for kids, being slow, etc... but that 30%.. seeing the sparkle in the kids eyes, is so special. Id still like to improve those ratios.
    Rain is forecast throught tomorrow so lets see how we go!
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  • A Sea of Sweat

    9. syyskuuta, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Last time Nat and I visited DisneySea in 2017 to start a Japan trip. Eight years later, its been very different. Then, we were two and it was a typhoon downpour, and deserted. Today, as a family of five, in sweltering humidity, with mass crowds, it was a very different experience.
    We were up around 7am, ready to ride the wave of enthusiasm from arriving in Japan with a Disney experience for the kids.
    I managed to convince our Hilton hotel to allow my 7 year old to have an included breakfast we paid for. The hotel has an interesting policy (among others) of counting 6 year old as adults..
    Breakfast wasn't bad, a lush fancy buffet with a variety of Japanese, Western and kids options. Even a guy to make you omelettes.
    Off we went, on the Disney loop train to DisneySea and a relatively seamless entry to DisneySea by 930ish.
    Our first nemesis, the heat. Geez it was NOT part of the plan.. its punishing. 30-35C, ALL the time, even at night and 80% humidity. Its rare the weather report says its 32 but 'feels like' 41. It took a couple hours to begin to acclimatise.
    It was quite quickly apparent the crowds here were going to be a problem.. after an hour in the park, (so 90min after opening) many major rides were already showing 2-3 hour waits. Anything in that time bracket was quite simple just not going to be feasible.
    Axel has not had a flying start to this trip, constantly wailing, sulking, being naughty, not listening. Much worse than usual. He, the heat, fatigue and crowds blocking the Toystory snd Terror Tower rides had me losing morale, so we headed straight for the next option, Aquatopia. 20min wait wasn't too bad and the boys loved it. We followed up with the Nemo & Friends Searider next door. Unfortunately no luck for Zander (and Nat) on these first two.
    Ryland and I were gutted to discover the Indiana Jones ride we'd been looking forward to was down. Many others were too, or had unreasonable queues but we got on the following throughout the day -
    - DisneySea Transit Streamer (everyone as a family)
    - Jasmine's Flying Carpets (Nat Ryland Axel)
    - Sinbads Storybook Voyage (everyone as a family)
    - the Magic Lamp Theatre (everyone as a family)
    - Flounders Flying Fish Coaster (Nat and Ryland, Kris and Axel)
    - Jumpin Jellyfish (everyone as a family)
    - Ariels Playground (everyone as a family)
    - 20000 Leagues Under the Sea (Kris Ryland Axel)
    - Toy Story Mania (last, longest wait 90min, everyone as a family)
    I wanted to do Tower of Terror and Journey to Centre of Earth with Ryland but time, circumstances and queues didn't allow.
    By the time we scrambled dinner at 8.15 during the final show at one of last option restaurants (food options were scarce, separated, limited in options, overpriced and closed early), everyone was pretty exhausted! Wed been at park almost opening to right upto 9pm closing.
    A good day, but at times challenging.
    Tomorrow is scheduled as our free day, but we may go to Team Labs depending on a variety of things.
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  • Take Off

    8. syyskuuta, Australia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    The day finally arrived. It feels like we've been waiting forever forever for this adventure. Our first international flight with children, our first as a family of five.
    My two favourite things in life, travel, and children set to be combined for the first time.
    A new challenge, a new chapter.
    Noones expecting it to be easy. Thats part of the reason for doing it.
    The last time Nat and I travelled together, internationally by plane was to Japan in 2017, soon after we lost Hendrik. When we returned from that trip, we discovered Ryland was on the way. It seemed fitting to return there for our first trip as our complete family group, 8 years later.
    Alarm set for 420am. Shuttle transfer set for 5am for a 9.30am flight, Melbourne direct to Narita Airport, Tokyo.
    Bags mostly packed, a toastie and cereal and we're off, under the light of a lunar eclipse. The first half hour, this is what I hoped for from the boys. Pure excitement. Thrown out of routine and their comfort zone.
    An hour later, we're at Terminal 2, Tullamarine. One thing that family travel has increased a little, is the luggage haul. Well, a lot more than a little. Nat and I have opted to pull our giant backpacks out of retirement for more hands free, with one jumbo wheelie bag. All of us have a daybag/hand luggage, including a baby bag for Zander. Oh, and a pram.
    We just about dragged that all through bag drop, the pram at oversized luggage, customs and to our gate. We managed to score a loan-pram that looked designed more for dolls than humans, but no complaints from little Zander who loved holding on for dear life as he was ushered around.
    After spending almost a small fortune ($48) on a couple coffees a crossaint and fruit cup, the long wait for that first family expedition by air overseas was finally over.
    We've booked bassinet aisle seats in the bulkhead in row 23 (A+B at the window and D and E across the aisle, in front of the basinet). Now the test, will Zander the Hutt (a baby that was >1%ile weight a month after birth, and as of his check this week is now 99%ile weight at 11.4kg) fit in the bassinet..? The limit is listed as 11.3kg and 71cm (he's 74).
    After a little squirm and some early resistance, an hour in.. and he's out, asleep and has been down 3 hours so far. Long may it continue.
    Ryland has been good as gold, watching movies and drawing. He's carries the most excitement and positivity of us all. Axel, since last night has been struggling with a tongue surface infection/irritation, and what seems an interrelated case of anxiety. We've been applying some meds and nurofen for it, but its making him a little edgy and difficult thus far already.
    Zander has just woke from about 3.25 hours sleep in the bassinet looking VERY refreshed. We're about 4.25 out of Tokyo, let's hope the rest of the journey goes smoothly.
    On arrival, 7pm, we have a 50min private transfer direct to Hilton Tokyo for our first night in Japan. I've a load of issues to sort with our hotel booking so hopefully that goes well..
    Tomorrow, we're gonna start off with a big experience at Disney Sea!
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  • A Return Journey

    10. elokuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    An excellent and much needed adventure. Just so, so short. Before we knew it we'd been and back again.
    We had a fairly smooth run back, waking at 7am and completing our pack before departing the hotel at 9.30am (for an 11.55am flight home).
    I even had time in the morning to sneak in a quick solo swim in the pool on deck 40.
    Just 20 minutes drive from the hotel to the airport/ rental car drop off. Our flight was a little painful, being delayed around an hour including some ridiculous carry on weighing but we got there.
    Both the kids, on their 6th flight each over the last 12 months or so handled themselves as well as ever.
    Whilst we're now back 'home' (with my parents), we're more than ever now counting down the remaining month or two or even weeks until we can truly get home to our finished family house in Junction Village. We're expecting this to happen in September or October.
    Once there the fun won't stop and we'll look ahead to booking our next adventure in late 2024.
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  • Dream World

    9. elokuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Queensland and its theme parks. Fond childhood memories for many of us 30 or 40 somethings.
    Things have changed over the last 20 or 30 years. Have I just aged? Died inside? Or is Queensland not quite the international premium holiday destination it once was.
    As much as we have and still did enjoy ourselves, the same theme of time taking the gloss or polish off the Queensland Coast is plain. It's all a little of a shadow of its former glory, a little tired, a little run down, a little lacklustre. This theme is especially known and accepted among the theme parks.
    Last year we got the kids through both Sea World and Movie World. Whilst the former was more than tired (and more like something out of the apocalypse), there were still faint sounds of a heartbeat and ICU treatment at Movie World.
    After the recent deaths/ ride tragedies at Dream World I was under the impression it was probably now the front runner of the theme parks, and whilst this may be true, it's a close run affair..
    Around half the rides were closed, haunted, or under maintenance. Access around the park was a little limited as well with many blocked paths. There were still plenty for the kids and they probably got on 5-6 rides they loved including the 'old time cars' (on a track) I went on at their age, some little planes, a ball-shooting area, little maze, tea cups and rocky boat.
    I got on (my legs fit for once!) the two fastest thrill coasters - the Steel Taipan and Gold Coaster and Nat got on a 4D experience ride with Ryland.
    The animals here were pretty good, (despite no advertised show times) we caught the Tiger show and saw dingoes, koalas, reptiles, crocs, cassowaries and bilbies. Axel particularly loved the Tigers.
    For our last holiday dinner, we headed out to the Pancake Manor nearby the hotel. Great location (old church), terrible food. You can't win em all!
    We spent the evening half packing.
    Overall, we couldn't be much happier with how things went. The kids have been exceptionally well behaved all things considered, and have a bunch of experience and memories to take home with them.
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  • A City Day

    8. elokuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After an epic day yesterday, today was set aside for a quiet day to enjoy the city and hotel.
    We explored a couple of (pretty cold) pools on deck 66 and deck 40, with the latter being slightly warmer and welcoming.
    'Blast off. Go up in the Sky!!' - Axel every time we rode the lift up to our room.
    The kids enjoyed the hotel, the view and some play time. After a recharge, we decided to set off on a late afternoon stroll to Southbank for dinner. We set off from the hotel around 5pm, through the Botanic Gardens and over the Goodwill Footbridge.
    This took us through some winding paths, gardens, lagoons and waterways. The kids loved exploring here, the lights, some music and playgrounds.
    As the evening wore on and the kids got tired and hungry, the lessen learned was that the perfect family restaurant is the one that feeds the kids before they turn.
    Despite this, we ended up with a good experience at a place called Ole - a Spanish tapas restaurant.
    Ryland sampled a bit of everything and we finished with some icecream over the road before completing a circuit back to the hotel past the Brisbane sign, past the museum and over the Victoria Bridge.
    It ended up being a rather late one again, the kids in bed 9ish before our last full day ahead to Dreamworld.
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  • Crikey That's a Big Day

    7. elokuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Packed, up and on the road by around 7.45am today. Not a bad effort!
    Just a casual 230km 2 hour 45 minute drive ahead southward bound to Australia Zoo on the way to our next hotel in Brisbane.
    No stops, just full steam ahead arriving at around 10.45am.
    Rather than replicate our Australia Zoo route of last year, we decided to do it in reverse this time, catching a shuttle from the entrance to the far side of the zoo - the African savannah and work our way back.
    It proved a great move, firstly to see those animals the kids were asleep for last time, and secondly to avoid back/double tracking.
    First animals off the bat were about the most impressive, a whole group of giraffes and brown 'Southern White Rhinos' the kids were absolutely in awe of. As a bonus, the dinosaur statues from last year were still prevalent throughout the zoo, much to Ryland's delight.
    Underwhelmed last year by the Croc show itself, we had no intent of attending it, but ended up there at the start time, so stopped there to watch and eat at Ryland's insistence. It still wasn't a highlight, unlike the 'bouncing pillow' and Laughing Frog 'water play' section. Axel laughed himself to death on the pillow and Ryland threw himself into the water play loving it despite freezing/hypothermia.
    Beyond that, seeing some baby koalas was a big highlight. The kids were well behaved most of the day, and actually finished up the zoo (including a stop at the animal hospital) around 415pm.
    Now, just an hour drive to Brisbane, how hard could it be?
    Whether it was Womens World Cup crowds, or peak hour, it was a hectic drive in to our next hotel the CLLIX Sky Tower.
    It was actually about 6.30pm before we managed to get in and park in the depths of a nightmare carparking catacomb!
    Not a bad view from level 78 (of 83) of the highest building in Brisbane it must be said!
    By the time we explored the area, around the central promenade about the tower (Queen St) and got back to the hotel, some take out pizzas and souvlakis had to suffice for dinner (many places had closed).
    It ended up being a late one in the end, the kids down probably by around 10pm.
    Tomorrow is clear as a relax/unwind day!
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  • A Whale of a Time

    6. elokuuta 2023, Coral Sea ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Our last full day in the area, we'd spent the majority our at sea whale watching. As expected, it proved to be the most challenging of our planned activities with the kiddos.
    They started the day at 7am in fantastic form, full of energy and excitement, for a 15 minute walk from the hotel to our whale watching vessel. Axel entertained, running laps while we waited 'look at me, I'm a whale I'm a whale!'
    The kids were excited to be aboard and both picked up a 'Whale Warrior' showbag with pencils, a hat, some colouring in and bits and pieces.
    It probably took half hour or so from the pier to our first whale sightings. We started with a few fins, a few tail breaches, a few fin slaps. Initially the kids were interested,- 'whoah whale there, that one hugeeeee'. It didn't last though, has we sailed from whale sighting to another, they grew bored, weary, annoyed by the wind.
    Whilst the sightings were fairly good all afternoon, it was the final group of whales 'mugging' us (showing an interest in our boat) that was by far the most rewarding and memorable. A group of three circled the boat, interacting with us, swimming under and around, peeking their heads above and playing. Getting within metres of these friendly, playful, gentle giants was amazing especially when you could fully appreciate their size.
    For our last night in the area, we headed out on foot to the Hervey Bay Boat Club for dinner. A good feed!
    Tomorrow, we say good bye to the area for a 2.5 hour morning drive to Australia Zoo en route to Brisbane.
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  • Random Roadtrip and Reptiles

    5. elokuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After such a big Friday at Fraser Island, today was a specifically designated rest day. No rush, no agenda, no expectations.
    We noted a couple of bird parks in the area, neither with particularly compelling or convincing reviews. Nonetheless, we decided to jump in the car and head through Hervey Bay itself, westward, around lunch time.
    By the time we'd reached Childers, the kids were snoozing. I parked and jumped out for some info and to grab a couple pies for lunch.
    Queensland time is a different agenda to back in Vic, people are up earlier, and everything closes earlier. I was lucky to grab pies by 12.55 with most lunch options closing up at 1!
    Whilst we'd considered visiting the Fly High Bird park in the area, we flipped and decided to give the "Snakes Downunder Reptile Park and Zoo" a spin which closed at 3pm. Arriving just after 1, we just caught the 'reptile encounter' show which involved us getting to hold and pat both a baby alligator and snake.
    This place had a really impressive range of lizards, turtles, reptiles and snakes, many I hadn't seen before and even a Komodo Dragon.
    The kids also enjoyed petting and getting up close with red kangaroos, wallabies, emus and koalas.
    The rest of the day was casually spent, I watched most of the Hawks Collingwood game, we swam, and enjoyed another home cooked meal in the hotel.
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  • Fraser Island Adventure

    4. elokuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The biggest adventure of the trip! A 12 hour tour of Fraser Island.
    Up at 7, kids fed and dressed. Backpacks and kids car-seats dragged to the curb outside our hotel, waiting for pickup and transfer to a ferry to explore Fraser Island.
    Eventually a bus arrives, seats are thrown in storage and we have kids on laps/regular seats for the transfer. There's probably about 40 people aboard.
    Half hour or so later, seats, bags and kids are dragged from bus to ferry and we're off over the Great Sandy Strait to Fraser Island.
    The ferry pulls in about 40 minutes later to Kingfisher Bay resort where our guide and rugged 4WD bus are waiting.
    Kids seats are strapped into the first couple rows - window seats, kids affixed and away we go! It wasn't long before we were off paved roads and bashing through sandy tracks cut through the forest, both boys loving the bumpy ride.
    First stop - Lake McKenzie. A pristine inland lake, with silky soft sand and shades of welcoming blue glistening in the morning sun. We made the effort to all jump in for a quick swim and enjoy the gorgeous surrounds.
    Next stop - A Forest Walk around Wanggoolba Creek. A towering canopy rainforest, crystal clear creeks and streams and the sound and company of birdlife about. A little bit of carrying kids to preserve little legs, but pretty relaxed!
    Third Stop - Kgari Resort for lunch. A buffet spread to fill hungry tummies
    Stop Four - Onwards for some beach driving up the east coast of the island to the SS Maheno. Really enjoyed this, exploring the ruins of a 1900 cruise ship turned WW1 medical boat, subsequently wrecked, ruined, bombed and lost to the ages. Ryland loved peering through old portholes, ruins and cabins.
    Stop Five - A little further of a drive on to the Pinnacles, strange rock formations overlooking the beach. A quick photo here, and then a backtrack down to Eli Creek. This place was particularly gorgeous, a creek flowing from the beach inland, where you could wade alongside a boardwalk.
    A spontaneous opportunity arose here, with a small scenic beach plane offering rides for $100 a person.
    With Nat having been on such a plane before, Axel being a little young and adverse to noisy flights I thought this might be a good experience for Ryland and I, especially given how insistent he was to go!
    We signed up and the two of us jumped aboard for 15-20 minutes or so in the air, whilst Nat and the bus drove south along the beach, meeting them thereafter. Ryland adored this, never batting an eyelid of fear or concern.
    From there, a bit of a drive back to the ferry at Kingfisher resort to begin the journey back.
    Still time for our late night spa, makeshift dinner in for the kids and Uber Eats subway sandwiches for Nat and I.
    An amazing day all round, fantastic guide and memorable experience.
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  • I Like the Sting Ray

    3. elokuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    After a big day of travel, a relatively quiet day planned today, settling in, waking up to some warmth, exploring the area.
    Today's activity was to the Reefworld Aquarium in Urangan, just a 15 minute walk or so from the hotel.
    This may be our last family trip with a pram equipped, so we made sure to utilise it. Nonetheless, Ryland's excitement got the best of him and his feet weren't able to keep up with a crash, grazed knee and tears the tragic result. This laid waste my plans to pay for a turtle swim with him.
    Fortunately, this wasn't needed as good timing and fortune favoured us. On arrival at the aquarium, they were just preparing to have visitors not only hand feed, but pet their Green Sea turtles.
    This was an amazing experience, getting up close, feeding the turtles some lettuce and getting to touch their shells and fins. The kids loved it.
    Whilst the aquarium itself was small, it still boasted some lovely fish, sharks and rays. On completion, staff welcomed us back for the afternoon to return for a complimentary fish/ray feeding session.
    After some beach, playground and lunch time we returned. Each of myself, Nat and the boys got to climb up over the tanks and feed a variety of sharks, Sting Rays and fish. The boys loved it!
    After a casual day, we ended up driving into Hervey Bay that evening for Hogs Breath (a kids favourite).
    Still time for a spa, before bed and a big day to Fraser Island tomorrow.
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