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Camino de Santiago 2018
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    20. huhtikuuta 2018
    Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Matkaaja
    Connor’s home away from home.The “crew”

    Home to Hood College, MD

    20. huhtikuuta 2018, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Hey everyone, thank you for checking in, I left Friday from Portland to Hood College to see Connor before I left for Europe. I am just starting my posts now due to being on the run for the past few days with limited sleep and limited wi-fi availability. I would like to thank everyone for all of their help with making this trip possible. The Delta Management for letting me out of there for five weeks...everyone at my work who is covering for me while I am away...my mom, who is watching my house and by helping with my gear through LL Bean gift cards....and Bev, who very patiently endured all of my talk and planning for this trip.Lue lisää

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    1Wow, what a color
    1On the tarmac changing planes in IcelandJust an average place in Paris....Caswell would be in heaven!Out the train window1Typical french rail platformPretty typical French train station...some are larger than others but all pretty much alike.1My hotel in Biarritz with the pissed off hotel manager

    Baltimore to Biarritz, France

    21. huhtikuuta 2018, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    I left Baltimore for France on Saturday night....a very long flight and long train trip to southern France. The trip Lasted almost 30 hours and ended last night at 1030 pm with a very irate hotel manager that I apparently woke up to let me in....but then, the French are easily irritated it seems. A few photos from along the way. There is a way to label each photo but I haven’t managed to figure that part out yet...
    But I will! And I just did 🙂    Lue lisää

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    Breakfast!
    Kind of the main “pilgrim street”. All uphill.My bunk for the night...no frills.1View from my room.1A badass walking stick.My home for the nightThe official start of the Camino. St. James Gate. It appears to be really really old.The first of many bridges.My only job for awhile....following these things. Seems easy enough?2The beach at Biarritz...wish I had time to stay!

    Biarritz to St. Jean Pied de Port, Fr.

    23. huhtikuuta 2018, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The start of the Camino. Tomorrow is a 17 mile walk mostly up hill and down the other side of the Pyrenees into Spain. I awoke this morning in Biarritz and found some breakfast...a croissant and an espresso, typical for here it seems but it worked. I made my way into the center of town and met up with two women from Denmark who were headed to the same place, joined them and made my way here around 1pm. So, St Jean Pied de Port....an amazing town. Lots of outdoor cafe’s. I went to the Pilgrim office, got my passport validated, checked into the municipal alberge, bought a walking stick and checked out the town. I had dinner tonight with my bunk mates from the Netherlands, Italy and France....a “pilgrims meal” which is a high protein inexpensive meal that is commonly served along the way. A shower next, organize my pack and to bed. Almost 9pm here. Thank you everyone for checking in! A special thanks to Damian Brockway for all his help with cameras and technical stuff!Lue lisää

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    Connor, looks like Pipe!
    A big stop along the way and One of the two only water sourcesSame place from a distanceUp...always up.And up.And up some moreStill going upLooking back but still climbing.The second of only two water sources....I was pretty dry when I hit it.

    Over the Pyrenees to Spain

    24. huhtikuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    Thank you everyone for checking in! I left St Jean Pied de Port this morning at 7am. I hiked for 14 hours and finally made it to Spain. It was an extreme bitch of a day although the views were amazing. 28K....so about 18 Miles I think....all up and down steep grades. I hiked with a woman from the Netherlands this morning who was really really struggling which slowed me down a bit. Hiked the afternoon with a young Russian girl from Moscow....she was struggling as much as myself by evening being the first day out. Arrived tonight at 9pm at Roncesvalees...an old monastery from like the 13th century. It has been a sanctuary for pilgrims since that time. I couldn't get a photo of it as it was too dark when I arrived. Again, thank you everyone for checking in!Lue lisää

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    2The Monastary at Roncesvalles where I spent the night.
    Practically there!Little town of Burguete. Parking is a little tight I would think!Most of my day...3Love the horses...and the one laying down is asleep..but very much alive.Always looking for these markers.This place saved my feet today...took away the hotspots.1My quarters for tonight.1What should we put in the town square? How about some cows! Gerendiain...Old fashioned wash in the sink, dry in the sun 🌞

    Roncesvalles to Gerendiain

    25. huhtikuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    I set out this morning at 8am attempting to get to Zubiri which is a 14 mile walk. However, I only made it to Gerendiain which is an 8 mile walk. I shortened the day for a few reasons...soreness from the Pyrenees crossing, the need to rest, needing to wash some clothes and a rainstorm creeping up behind me. But, it all turned out well...Gerendiain is an interesting little town with a population of 25. Yep, 25. The town is actually mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus which was the first Camino guidebook for pilgrims written in the 13th century...so, the place is pretty darn old! I found a small hotel here which caters to Camino walkers. A little expensive by Camino standards compared to an albergue but you are not in a bunk room fighting for an outlet to charge your phone.....but way less expensive then cheap hotel at home. Plus, dinner and breakfast are included for around $40. The owner cooked dinner....a pasta/ham dish with eggs, fries, bread and wine. Lots of carbs and protein served here to keep the hikers going. Had dinner with a father and son from Brazil tonight. I set off for Larrasoana in the morning but could possibly make Pamplona. Doing well...a bit of a sunburn, some sore muscles but no blisters! I hope everyone is well and thank you for checking in!Lue lisää

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    5People do die along the route apparently
    My greeter upon entering a small hamletMuch of my hike todayAnd of course the markerNot any different than a Maine trail4Is that all it takes? Wow...deep.Da bridge in ZubiriMy home for the night2My dinner view.Every town has a bell tower

    Gerendiain to Zubiri

    26. huhtikuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Hola from Spain! Thank you for checking in. Got up at 630 am. Had breakfast at the hotel...coffee, bread & jam. Started walking at 8am, shooting for Larsorona or Pamplona but stopped at Zubiri. The trail was hilly, rising and descending and realized that I wouldn’t get to Pamplona till late and larsorona had limited WiFi and only one unreliable pub so I opted to lay up in Zubiri. Zubiri is an industrial town with a magnesium factory/mine with a population of 435. It has a gothic bridge dating back to the Middle Ages. I arrived around 2pm and got a decent alberge for 15 euro...so about $18 with breakfast included. I got some laundry done...with only two sets of clothes, you do it often. I saw the town which didn’t take long, got some dinner...Chorizo, cheese and some kind of spicy peppers and ate it next to the river with my feet in the water. Headed to Pamplona in the morning...all flat terrain I hear. Take care and thanks!Lue lisää

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    Yes...this is Basque Country...make no mistake
    Part of the trail today...2A small hamlet I passed throughWhere modern day meets the countryside....heading into Pamplona1Just a place I passed through1Bridge into the old city of PamplonaBusy streets here...The main square in Pamplona...Plaza del CastilloNear dark, just off the Plaza del CastilloMy lodgings for tonight.

    Zubiri to Pamplona

    27. huhtikuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Hey everyone, as usual, I appreciate everyone checking out my blog. I started my day at 0630...on the road to Pamplona at 0730 after breakfast. The breakfast was provided by the albergue I stayed at last night. French bread, coffee and jam. One thing I have figured out..if breakfast is provided at no extra charge, it will be bread, coffee and jam. But, it works well enough. I had left over chorizo and cheese from last night for lunch. About a third of the way to Pamplona, I was sitting on the side of the trail tending to a hotspot on my foot with moleskin when two women from day one came along...Karen from the Netherlands and Elaine from Phoenix...who I call “Phoenix” instead of Elaine. They invited me to hike with them for the rest of the day and we’re joined by a woman from Brazil...Chandra. We made it to Pamplona around 3:30, and went our separate ways. I found a hostel, private room, for 40 euro, ($50 US)right off the main square. I headed out again around dinner time and ran into Phoenix, some of her friends and the young Russian girl who I crossed the Pyrenees with. Weird that I would find them in a large city so we figured it was meant to be so we had dinner of tapas and wine together. We are all walking tomorrow to Puente la Reina. That’s it for now....thank you for checking in!Lue lisää

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    1Inside the church..Iglesia de San Andres.
    And another...Elaine and AnastasiaThe Iglesia de San Andres from the outside.The cafe for lunch.At the top of the Alto de Perdon.2A great snack around 3pm in a small town. Bacon and pepper sandwich. Delicious!1Sometimes you have to really look for the arrows...My home for the night.Da bunk room.

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    28. huhtikuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Hey everyone! Thank you again for dropping by. I left Pamplona this morning around 8am with a group of people from last night. It didn’t take long to get separated however, as everyone walks at their own pace. I ended up walking the first few hours by myself and managed to lose my walking stick when I stopped to get a water refill and got distracted by a dog and left my stick. I didn’t realize it until a half hour later and I wasn’t going back to get it. Ugh. But, I am fine without it and it was always in the way when I was taking photos anyway. I stopped the small town of Zariquiegui which is the home of Iglesia de San Andres which is a 13th century church of which I have included photos of. And, it was in a scene of “The Way” ....a movie starring Martin Sheen about this trip. I ran into Elaine (Phoenix) and Anastasia (the young Russian girl). We got some lunch at a local cafe here...Coffe con leche’, orange juice and a banana for me. We climbed the Alto de Perdon which is at the top of a mountain with the wind turbines....which was a real bitch while humping a pack. And as much of a bitch going down the other side. I also ran into a girl that I met in Zubiri...a police officer from Brisbane Australia who has a thick accent much like Crocidle Dundee. I was looking down, fixing my pack when I heard “ Oh look....it’s my American paramedic friend”. She gave me some chocolate for energy for the trip over the top of the mountain...hikers are so good to each other on this trip. I lost touch with them all by early afternoon and met up with a young Italian guy who was struggling with a shin splint so we walked slowly...as I was hurting as well... for the last few miles into Puente la Reina. I am at an albergue tonight on the edge of town located at the top of a huge hill...just what I needed at the end of a long day...but it is $14.50 for the night...cheap enough for a bed and a shower, oh and a little bar. The place is a 100 bed albergue. I arrived at 5 pm and I was placed in a 4 bed room with Anastasia and Elaine...completely by chance....go figure! We lose Anastasia tomorrow as she is going further than the rest of us...the way it is on the trail. That’s it for now...hope everyone is well!Lue lisää

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    The bridge into Estella.
    Fresh squeezed orange juice...they squeezed fresh while you waited.Part of the “Way”Wine country! Not quite ready for harvest...3Part of the way through a small village.Heading down into this valley.2This is Sam! He is from Italy. He is walking the Camino as well!A rest stop in an olive tree grove.1Fruit for donations. I love coming across these little places....adds some energy.Soon to be Vino!

    Puente La Reina to Estella

    29. huhtikuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Hola from Los Arcos, Spain. I didn’t get a chance to post last night so two coming at you today. I left Puente La Reina at 730 a yesterday morning heading to Estella. I am now out of the Pyrenees foothills and getting into wine country. I really struggled with this leg of the trip for some reason...a combination of some tough hills, my body being tired and walking through some heavy rains for the last couple of miles. But things are much better tonight as I write this. I walked the afternoon with Kristy...my police officer friend from Australia. She had a small hotel booked and since I was cold, wet and tired....I went there and got a room instead of trying to find an albergue. The place was clean and had a restaurant so...it worked. Hotels are significantly more money but you have a private room as well as hotter water usually and not having to fight for an outlet to charge my iPad is also a huge plus. I don’t have any photos of Estella for two reasons, it didn’t seem to be a historic little town like some and I was too cold, tired and sore to go out and look around. So, the following photos are of my trip between Puente La Reina and Estella.Lue lisää

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    3A view from my office today!
    6Da wine fountain2Lots of vineyards.2These are getting a huge workout!Brunch stop for the day.2The attic suite.My home for the night.Iglesia de Santa Maria in Los Arcos.1Inside....wow!1And my little corner of the world tonight!

    Estella to Los Arcos

    30. huhtikuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Hey! Hello from Los Arcos, Spain...I hope everyone is well. I left Estella at 730 am after a great breakfast of rolled up salami & ham, croissant, orange juice and coffee. My first stop was to the wine fountain located 3 km out of town. The local winery offers the wine at no cost to pilgrims. They give a 100 liters/day. Tradition says that you fill your scallop shell that you carry and drink the wine for strength for the walk. So...I did just that. The scenery was amazing today and I have a lot of photos, but unfortunately I can only post 10 photos per day on this blog. The walk to Los Arcos was around 14 Miles today which went much better than yesterday. After a couple of stops for rest and lunch, I made it to Los Arcos at around 3pm. I arrived at an albergue and the guy at the desk informed me that the only beds he had left were on the attic level and it was only a mattress on the floor. And I said, Perfect! So, 10 euro for the “bed”...use of the facilities and breakfast....11 euro for dinner at a cafe beside the church, 3 euro for a caraf of wine while I write this....so, around $30 Not bad for all of that. That’s the great part about albergues. And Sam the Golden retriever is staying here as well! Tomorrow, most people are heading for Lograno which is a 17 mile walk. That is a long day so I may pull up short in Viana which is a walled city with a lot of cafes and such. Sometimes it is better to take the path less traveled...less crowded albergues etc. So, going to hit send on this and settle in, 9pm as I write this. Thank you for checking in!Lue lisää

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    Los Arcos to Logrono

    1. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Today was an exceptionally tough day. My guide book said: “Enjoy the views as you walk through the beautiful rolling hills of La Rioja vineyards”. Well, that sounds beautiful but it translated to having to hump your pack up and down a lot of hills! My goal today was not to push it to Logroño as it was to far, however I reached Viana where I planned to stay and I could not find a bed or a room so I pushed on with a guy named James from the UK where he had a room booked in Logrono. We limped into Logrono at around 6pm. An 18 mile day which would have been fine had it been flat...but the hills...Ugh! I plan on a shorter day tomorrow...it is only an 8mile hike to the small town of Navarrette so I am shooting for that. Take care, I hope everyone is well. Thank you for checking in!Lue lisää

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    3An artist I met...depicting his Pyrenees crossing. He is spot on!!
    So talented...glad I met him.A spot along the way to Navarrette.My home for the night.I can’t do these churches justice with a photo...they are so immense!What $2.80 gets you in Navarrette. No complaints here!Typical passage throughout the town.This is a small hotel near where I am staying...pretty cool..wish I had found it before my albergue.Nothing says relaxing with a beer or glass of wine next to an 800 y/o church!Laundry drying at the ole albergue!

    Lograno to Navarrette

    2. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Hola from Navarrette, Spain. I am in a small town between the larger towns of Lograno and Burgos. So, a couple things have happened...I have discovered that I cannot walk 17-18 miles per day through hills and valleys, get into a town and search for a place to stay at 5 or 6 pm. I am too tired and there is limited rooms and most are taken by that time of day. Sooo, I plan on hiking until one or two o’clock, and dumping into the closest town which may or may not have WiFi...so, If you don’t hear from me, don’t worry...just off the grid. I reached Navarrette at around noon today...met up with two hikers that I have gotten to know, Kristy from Australia and Ellen from Virginia...had lunch at a cafe and they
    proceeded on to the next town and I stayed put here. I found a great Albergue in the center of town for around $10. I settled in, did some laundry and walked around town some. I am sharing a room with a group of Canadian woman from Ontario and they invited me for dinner in the Albergue kitchen. They cooked, I mostly sipped wine and sliced some chorizo but a good time had by all. I plan to head out at around 730 am...not sure what my destination is as of yet but somewhere west of here. That’s about it from Spain...hope all is well back home. Thank you for checking in!    Lue lisää

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    2A “Guardian” for pilgrims along the Way.
    My breakfast sop...thank God for these!Da fountain...The view along the Way.The ever expected uphill trail just to keep it interesting.Music along the way...2They deliver beer here like we deliver heating oil!!3Heaven!My home for the night.Some rock formations around town...

    Navarrete to Najera

    3. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Hola from Najera, Spain! I left the Albergue at around 0715 this morning...first stop...a cafe for breakfast. After a breakfast of fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee and a ham & cheese croissant and a stop at the town fountain to fill my water bottle...I was off. The hike to Najera was blustery and partly sunny....a bit cold but I am prepared for any weather so not a problem. The hike took me through mostly vineyards but did add the occasional path with a never ending hill just to remind you who is the boss. I arrived in Najera around 1pm and stopped into a cafe for lunch...a chorizo & egg bocadillo and a coke. I arrived in town and decided to get a small hotel instead of an albergue. A hotel is more expensive but you have a private room and a bathroom instead of a bunk room and shared facilities in an albergue. Also, albergues have lots of rules...lights out at 10pm..lights on at 7am...bunk rooms, so it is difficult to sleep...that type of thing. My hotel tonight is the best yet...a great room and bed and a bathtub! Heaven on the Camino! Tomorrow I set out for Santo Domingo...a 14 mile hike. That’s all from Najera for now...hope all is well!Lue lisää

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    2A group headed to Santiago as well!
    The hill out of Najera.The ghost town.4The long and winding road.Santo Domingo....still a ways off. But at least I could see the church.Our Spanish Brothers....Door into the Albergue....I bet this door weighs at least a thousand pounds!My refuge for the night.The rest of it...it is huge.

    Najera to Santo Domingo

    4. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Hello from Santo Domingo, Spain. I got a late start from Najera this morning, so I arrived a little later to Santo Domingo at around 4pm. I met up with an 81 year old Australian guy named James on the way into town. He was at least a km behind me and caught up with me in under an hour. He walked the AT at the age of 65, walked the full length of the UK in his 70’s and now the Camino at age 81. I am a little embarrassed to admit that he crossed the Pyrenees in 7 hours at age 81 and it took me twice that long. Very humbling. He is actually in the bunk next to me tonight in an old monastary run by a group of nuns. The trip here today was uneventful really....lots of vineyards, grassy fields and hills, a 14 mile day. One note of interest...I walked through a literal ghost town today...very weird. Apparently a developer created an upscale community complete with a golf course and hundreds of condos...the whole thing flopped and it was abandoned as is. It felt like I was in a nuclear area like Chernobyl in Russia in the 80’s. Tomorrow I will attempt to make it to Belorado. Some stories from the Camino: On the same day I crossed, a guy arrived at the Albergue Orrison (the only refuge on the Pyrenees crossing) at around 5pm...they had no room for him and turned him away. He went a mile up the trail, pitched his tent and settled in until the wild horses came along and destroyed his tent...scared the guy half to death apparently but I hear he survived okay. I met a 19 year old kid hiking the Camino backwards...started in Portugal and is walking to his home in England...about a 4 month trip. There is apparently another guy from Maine hiking somewhere near me but haven’t met up with him yet. That’s it from here for now....I am getting there. I have walked over 100 miles so far but can’t pin down the exact number but that means I am 20% of the way and still alive! Take care, I hope this finds everyone well!Lue lisää

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    Passed into a new Province. Castilla y Leon
    Have a bale of hay, or 5000!The last few kilometers into a town...always a bitch!Thank god...a fountain in the distance. Damn! No good 🙁2This passport gets you the cheap lodging. Always a stamp to prove you have covered the distance.Belorado’s town square.And my haven for the night.BeloradoA small church close by my albergue.

    Santo Domingo to Belorado

    5. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Hello from Villambistia, Spain....as usual, thank you for checking in. I left Santo Domingo yesterday morning at around 7:30 am and arrived in Belorado at 3pm. I did not post last night due to being busy with the festivities in the albergue. There are a bunch of people that are traveling in a group and I have been running into them a lot and they invited me to join them. So between that and a great political discussion with two young political science majors from Germany and Denmark....the ole blog got neglected. The political discussion was great...the girls had never actually met a Trump supporter in person so they were very interested in my views on American politics. I like to think that they walked away a little more enlightened. 😉. The walk yesterday was through mostly grassy fields and small towns. I started listening to the music on my iPad for the first time on the walk....it actually adds a whole other dimension to the walk. Nothing says healing like walking through a 900 year old town with “YMCA” blasting through the earphones! As I write this, I am at a cafe in a small town between destinations....I am not sure where the final destination is today as beds and rooms are getting more difficult to find. The tent may be coming out soon. That’s all for now and thank you again for checking in!Lue lisää

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    3On my way into Villafranca.
    A scene from Indiana Jones?The town square of a small town along the “Way”.1Not sure what this is but it looked cool and old!My “refuge” for the night.2A fairly new church....1700’s2Kitchen of my Pensione tonight.3A small town “Supermarket”1Making dinner in a Spanish town I can barely pronounce...but calming in a simplistic way.1Life on the Camino...poles in the bucket...shoes at the door!

    Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca

    6. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The Camino de Santiago. I read about it, I watched videos about it but nowhere in my research let me know how hard it is to do. Your feet hurt all of the time. But through the hurt, things are happening physically that are really good. First, I think that I have lost 15 lbs and a pant size already. Cardiovascular wise? I can actually make it up a long hill now without huffing and puffing and feeling like I want to die. I am drinking between 3 & 4 liters of water each day. I have made some adjustments which makes things easier....like stuffing my IPad..which is my camera...under my chest strap for easy access, putting my fanny pack on my side instead of my front so it doesn’t impede my stride....little things like this help. Another story from the Camino: I met a guy volunteering at the Albergue a couple of towns ago...he has hiked the Camino 23 times. His dad...hiked the Camino 30 times starting in 1957. I just want to make it through it once...that’s hard enough! It’s interesting when it comes to the locals response to you as you walk through their towns. Some people are really indifferent and show no signs of even noticing you. Others however, give you a big smile and say: Hola! Buen Camino! The Camino is a big deal to a lot of Spanish people...it seems and they respect you for making the trek. I have met a fair amount of Spanish people that are trekking...it looks very good on a resume here apparently. Maybe some are doing it for that reason, maybe for deeper meaning...not really sure. It’s funny though...I have walked through bad neighborhoods, past gang type people but it’s like an unwritten rule here...don’t mess with a pilgrim and they leave you be. I find myself tonight in a small town, I am in a little pensione which compares to a small b&b in Maine. A nice room, shared bathroom and just overall, quaint and classy. I face an uphill climb of 5.6km up over a mountain in the morning. I stopped here because I just couldn’t face that hill at 2pm and already tired and sore. So I head out in the morning, packing the meal I cooked tonight...a full water bottle and hopes that I make it up and over before it gets to hot. Thank you for checking in as usual! I hope this finds everyone well!Lue lisää

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    2The welcoming committee into Ages.
    Leaving Villafranca this morning...heading up the huge hill2Goodbye little town...goodbye cool pensione...goodbye comfy bed...Through the forest we go!2An oasis!Apparently forestry is a thing here in Spain as well.2Some bored or creative pilgrims at some point along the way3Inside the church I am sleeping at. Built in the 16th century.2The outside and the stork nest.4And my refuge for the night!

    Villafranca Montes de Oca to Ages

    7. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Hello from Ages, Spain...a small town, population 65 that is just east of the large city of Burgos. I left my very comfortable pensione this morning around 8am and after a long walk through a forest, I arrived in Ages at around 2:30. There were no hotels with inexpensive rooms..only albergues, which are getting tiresome because of the whole bunk room situation. So...I decided to haul the tent out of the bag and give that a try. I went to the local church...the 16th century Iglesia de Santa Eulalia....complete with a very large stork nest at the top. There was an elder Spanish woman who was apparently the overseer of the church and after explaining, mostly with sign language, that I wished to set my tent up in the courtyard, she was very happy to let me do so. This is the way that the Camino was done in the old days before the whole albergue infrastructure was in place....people stayed in church courtyards, hay lofts etc. As I write this, I am getting some dinner at a local cafe and using their WiFi. That is about it for now....tomorrow, I walk into Burgos. Take care all and thank you for checking in!Lue lisää

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    2View at my first rest stop of the morning
    Typical town that you pass through daily4A monument at the top of the mountain I hiked over.Burgos off in the distance.A small town a km off the Camino.I have no words for this...My refuge for the night...a little more comfortable than last night.Cathedral de Burgos1Another side of the Cathedral de Burgos....again photos don’t capture the vastness of it.1Only one of many many chambers inside.

    Ages to Burgos

    8. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Good morning to everyone. I packed up my tent and left Ages at around 7:30 am in the morning. I walked a couple of miles and came across a place for breakfast. After a coffe and an apple pastry, I was on my way again. The walk to Burgos took me up over a mountain, which was quite steep I might add, and the path ran along a Spanish military base. Once at the top, I could see Burgos...still a 4 hour walk off in the distance. I have officially walked 180 miles of the Camino but with the added daily walking within the towns to find lodging, walking to find food....I beilive I am actually approaching 200 Miles. I had a nice hotel in Burgos...very inexpensive by American standards...with breakfast, my own room and shower. You really start to appreciate all these things when you can find them. Living and sharing facilities in an albergue gets old. I went to the huge church in Burgos....I have never seen a church so vast in my life...photos don’t do it justice. It took me 15-20 minutes just to walk around the structure on the outside. It was built from 1221-1260 I think. I can’t believe that building so huge and so ornate would be possible with the tools and means of that time period. But huge it is. That’s it for now...I hope this finds everyone well!Lue lisää

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Matkaaja
    2The iconic scene from “The Way”
    Thank God for these!On the way out of town this morning...2Entering TardajosThis has been here awhile...4Around town tonight...kind of a ghost town.The bell tower in Tardajos...every town has one.Kind of sad. This once was a thriving town I would bet.2My refuge for the night.

    Burgos to Tardajos

    9. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Greetings from the small town of Tardajos....just west of Burgos on the Meseta. The Meseta is known as the high plateau in central Spain. Whatever it is or whatever it is called, it is a week of no shade and high temps. I left Burgos this morning and headed west. It took some time to get out of the city but one point of interest to me...I came to this place in the road and recognized it immediately when I saw it which is odd because I have never been here before but it was a spot where a big scene in the movie “The Way” was filmed. As I said, I landed in this small town of Tardajos...population 950. I am not sure where everyone is because I have only seen about 10 locals. A lot of the town is boarded up as are a lot of these small Spanish towns. I checked into a pretty modern albergue for $13 for the night complete with a nice cafe/bar and laundry facilities. Some albergues have a washer and dryer but they want around $10 to use them. They also offer hand washing sinks and clothes drying racks for free, which is the option I chose as most people do here. I am sharing a room tonight with 2 German guys, two sisters from Arizona and a young girl from Australia. A very nice bunch as most people are that are walking. I had the “pilgrim meal tonight which is a 3 course meal with wine...for a decent price and the portion size is always very good as well. The hard part about albergues is that you need to be out by 8am...rain or shine. The price you pay for cheap lodging I suppose. That’s it for now, off to sleep in a few. I hope everyone is well! Thank you for checking in!Lue lisää

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Matkaaja
    In the middle of nowhere...placed by a pilgrim I would guess.
    A lot of artists along the trail.2A small chapel where a woman placed a small medallion around your neck.2Inside the chapel1The long road ahead...Always small towns to walk through...The Meseta..A lot..1Of nothing.Coming down the hill into Hotanas.

    Tardajos to Hontanas

    10. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Hello everyone from Castrojeriz, Spain. I was not able to post yesterday due to the WiFi situation in Hontanas. Apparently there was no internet working in the town. When I say in the town, I mean the two or three albergues that cater to pilgrim travelers because other than that, there were no signs of life. The walk through the meseta was cold and blustery but fortunately, it was a east to west wind so it was at my back all day. I arrived in Hotanas at around 3 pm and there were not many beds available so I grabbed up one. Like I have said, albergues are not my favorite but it was threatening rain and there was no shelter for my tent. I ended up in a room with a guy from Georgia, one from Boston and a guy from Germany. It was a decent night all in all. They served a pilgrim meal at one big table for all of the travelers which consisted of chicken paella, salad, dessert and all the red wine anyone could ever want. The chicken paella was delicious which they served in a huge wok shaped pan on the table. One unique thing about Hotanas is that you approach it for miles and can’t see it until you are on top of it and you start down into this little valley. That’s all I’ve got for now, I hope this finds everyone well and thank you as usual for checking in!Lue lisää

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Matkaaja
    3From my albergue, right before bed tonight
    This little stopover halfway here...pretty amazing.And the guy who runs it...an amazing guy.And his dog!Hobbit hole?My refuge for the night.View from my albergue.An old Knights Templar castle.Coming into town today.1This greeted me as I left Hontanas...just in case I was wondering how far I still had to go. 🤨

    Hontanas to Castrojeriz

    11. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Hello from Castrojeriz, Spain....another town on the meseta. I had a good walk here this morning. I had to make a decision between this town and another town a lot further away with a lot fewer beds and lodging which would have been tough getting in after 4pm so I opted for this town. This albergue I am staying at has a 10th century wine cellar underneath it which we got a tour of....pretty amazing. Unfortunately, it was too dark for photos. That’s it for now, off to sleep as it is 10pm here. Thanks as usual for checking in!Lue lisää

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Matkaaja
    Leon, Spain
    1The Castilla in Leon.1A beautiful city..1My refuge for tonight1This is a real woman....she doesn’t move for hours.2And apparently , bachelorette party’s are a thing in Spain as well!

    Castrojeriz to Leon

    12. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    Hey, from the city of Leon, Spain. So, today, reality took over. I woke up this morning in a small town on the meseta in central Spain. I knew as I have known for days that as much as I walked, I would not have enough days to get to Santiago. My choices were to ask for two more weeks off so I would have the time to complete this trip or to travel forward by bus or train. I decided that I cannot ask my coworkers to cover me for an additional two weeks and to be honest, I have no desire to be out here for an additional two weeks anyway. So, instead of slogging through the rain on the meseta with no realistic goal in sight, I decided to catch a bus to Leon. I have a difficult time with this as I set out to complete the whole 500 miles but will fall short of that goal. But, at the same time, I do realize that I set very difficult goals for myself. I thought I could bang out the 16 miles a day pace without rest days and complete this in 32 days. To the contrary, I have discovered that unless you are a marathoner, young and in shape, that is not a realistic goal. My son could do it in that time frame being 19 and in shape from a lacrosse season, but not I. Soooo...I will start again on the trail from Ponferrada on Monday morning. That is 128 miles from Santiago. I have been averaging 12 miles per day for the past 2 1/2 weeks. I will need to average 15 miles per day to get to Santiago, give myself time to get to Portugal and get my ass on a plane back home on the 25th of this month. But, at least this is an obtainable goal. I will settle for the 328 miles walking...short of my goal...but okay in my mind. I have already accomplished what I set out to do when I started this. Also, there are many ways to do this trek. Many people send there pack forward by courier....I have chosen to grind it out with my pack on my back the whole way...as I will continue to do till the end. Not many photos today as it was more a travel day and a logistical planning day for me. Goodnight from Leon.Lue lisää

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Matkaaja
    Lots of tributes to Saint James along “The Way”.
    Leon.In case you were wondering what a Spanish police car looked like.2Near my albergue...note the huge stork nest.Another Camino tribute nearby.4Just because I am a sensitive guy....

    Leon to Ponferrada

    13. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Hello from Ponferrada, Spain. First off, Happy Mother’s Day to my Mom...thank you for all of your support! I took it easy today and got myself to Ponferrada. I stayed in a small hotel last night so, unlike an albergue, check out time was not until noon. That enabled me to sleep in and take my time this morning. I also got my flight booked to come home this morning. I have an 8:30 am flight on Friday the 25th out of Porto, Portugal landing in Boston at 1:20 pm. An 11 hour flight but I lose 6 hours with the time difference. I will take the train or bus to Portland and Connor is picking me up there. I met up with two older gentlemen from London last night in Leon. They had just arrived and begin walking to Santiago today. They are taking the easier method of walking the Camino....they walk until they are tired and call someone from their booking agency to drive them to the next town. We met up at a cafe and when they learned I had been walking for almost three weeks, they wanted to here some of my stories. As it turned out, we had dinner together and had a great political discussion among other topics. The really great part?...they bought the wine!...which was the really good stuff! I arrived at the bus depot in Ponferrada at around 3pm. I had a 2mile or so walk to find the Camino path and a place to stay around 4:30. I ended up in a small albergue. I had dinner tonight with an engineer from Frankfort, Germany and a physician from Barcelona, Spain. Again, great discussion and food. Tomorrow, I am on the trail again...15 miles to the next town. I will enter the province of Galicia in the next couple of days. Galacia is very mountainous and the scenery is stunning I have been told so the photos from here on in to Santiago should be great. Galacia also has a huge Celtic influence so that should be interesting to see. It is also known for its seafood...especially octopus and I will be trying that out for sure. It is also very mountainous, so I will be grinding up and down huge hills once again. That’s it from here...I hope this finds everyone well!Lue lisää

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Matkaaja
    The Iglesia de Santiago greeted me in Villa Franca del Bierzo.
    3Along the way...Santiago 220....that’s km’s not miles thank god.Our Spanish brothers responding code 3.1Vineyards again, thank god. I hope wine goes down again. $1.50/ glass lately has been killing me!2The rain behind me...made it to town without it catching me though.Interesting how they built these old houses.Getting a more European feel to the towns.2The river through town.Foot soaking stop...the cold water acts as ice and helps...A LOT!

    Ponferrada to Villa Franca del Bierzo

    14. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Good morning from some small village west of Villa Franca del Bierzo where I woke up this morning. I left Ponferrada yesterday morning around 7am and arrived in Villa Franca del Bierzo at around 3pm. The walk was through a few small towns and I am back into vineyards once again. I stayed in a new albergue last night. I was referred to this place by another albergue who was nearly full. The lady who owns it is struggling to make it even though it is a nice place. It was nearly empty except for 3 other people. She doesn’t have a cafe/bar and her WiFi is terrible so it turns a lot of people away. But, she was a very nice lady in her late 60’s I would guess. She even did my laundry for me...washed/dried and folded. And the fact that there were only 3 other people in the large bunk room, I slept very well which is first for an albergue for me. Other than all that, I am just knocking out the miles to Santiago. I hope everyone is well!Lue lisää

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Matkaaja
    1Hello Mr. Stork!
    A town along the way...1Billy goats up on a steep hill.Yet another small town...2190 km’s!A little hamlet along the way.1In town Las Herrerias.Entering Las Herrerias.1Just a small little bridge in town...Pretty much the whole town.

    Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias

    15. toukokuuta 2018, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Hello from Laguna de Castille...a small town up in the Galician mountains. I arrived last night into Las Herrerias, a small town of 30. I found a small pensione with a private room for a little more than an albergue so I grabbed it up. The walk was pretty uneventful and not real scenic from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias. The hike followed a stream and a highway most of the day. Today is a very scenic day through the mountains and I will send out an update tonight if I have decent WiFi. Take care and thank you for checking in!Lue lisää

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