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Camino de Santiago 2018
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Camino de Santiago 2018

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    Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    Gotta get my almost daily dog photo in. This guy is “guarding” the store.
    One of the many, many squares in Porto1The classic blue porcelain that is everywhere here1Apparently the Portuguese loved this stuff and imported it from China long ago.And yet another square...this one with a fountain.1This mosaic stone is everywhere. Millions of these little stones make up the sidewalks here.Even here in Portugal you order by numba..not by item. 😉Want a half a duck? You can get that here!Fantastic Chinese though...however, no rum drinks like at home.And finally..my neighborhood last night. A bit sketchy.

    Last day in Portugal to Home

    24. mai 2018, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    As I write this it is 6:30 am on Friday. I have just cleared security at the airport here in Porto and am just waiting to board at 0800. By the time anyone reads this, I will be somewhere over the Atlantic. Yesterday was a rainy day in Porto so I didn’t do a whole lot. I cleared the hostel I stayed at the night before and booked a private room in a pensione that offered an airport shuttle. Of course, not really knowing the neighborhoods in Porto, it ended up being in a run down residential part of town...but what can you expect for $25? Actually, once I got into the place it was actually very nice and clean on the inside. To top it all off, there was no reception so I was let in by another guest and had to communicate via email to get the shuttle service arranged. But, the guy showed up at 0530 this morning and got me to the airport, so it all worked out. I will arrive in Boston at 1:20 after an 11 hour flight time....a bus to Portland where Connor will pick me up...hopefully, it all goes smoothly. This will be my last post in the blog. I very much appreciate everyone following me and commenting...it has made the trip much easier with the almost daily interaction with everyone. I have included a few photos of my last day in Porto. Take care and I will see you all soon.Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    On the river walk with the famous bridge in the background.
    One of the many tour boats on the river.Along the riverwalkLooking across.The very large bridge...walking and railway only.1View from the top...and it was a bitch of a climb up there!Some government buildings in town I think.The river again.1This the local specialty I got tonight...I will be making this at home for sure.Leaving the river as the sun was starting to go down.

    Porto, Portugal

    23. mai 2018, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Good morning to everyone. As I write this, I am sitting in a downtown hostel...literally named “Downtown Hostel”. Not a terrible place but it is still the whole bunk room thing but they are cheap sooo... I walked through the city last evening and had dinner on the river...some local specialty...ham, chorizo and steak covered with cheese and a spicy sauce and of course, Portuguese red wine. The trip down to the river was a bit crazy as there are thousands and thousands of people on the streets and hundreds of cafes, shops etc. This is an extremely busy city. The river walk was extremely nice with musicians playing music. I chose an outdoor cafe next to one of the musicians to have dinner at....all in all, a relaxing evening. Sooo, I fly home in the morning....just trying to figure out where to stay that is close by the airport but still keeping things affordable. My flight is at 830 am so, I should be there at 530-600. Headed out for the day....I hope this finds everyone well!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    My refuge for the night.
    1Aguda.The local catch.From my hostel balcony.My refuge last night...Lucky I found it.

    Aguda back to Porto, Portugal

    22. mai 2018, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Hey from Porto, Portugal! I am a day behind with the whole blogging thing...I do apologize. There are a a lot of things that come into play...mostly WiFi issues. It does not take a strong WiFi connection to blog but it does effect the uploading of the photos....bad WiFi can take up to an hour or more to upload photos. Anyway, I spent the day yesterday on the beach in Aguda. A great day but exhausting as any day in the sun will make you feel. I awoke yesterday morning in the local firehouse as the the guys put me up being am EMS brother and all. I feel bad for them as they are fighting the same battle as we did in the late 70’s and 80’s. I made my way back to Porto late in the afternoon yesterday...not a lot to show you as I hiked from the train station to my hostel with no fantastic photos or anything. A lot of the walk was through residential and blue collar areas. I spent last nightt at a decent hostel called Rock n hostel...a tribute to musicians. Not a bad place. I was bunked with young girls from France and a girl from the US living in France. It’s okay but I don’t have a lot in common with them being that I could be their dad and all....but all n all, okay. I awoke this morning and made my way to the old city....I could have taken a cab but chose to walk as we backpackers or pilgrims tend to do. I find myself in a hostel tonight with a guy from Belgium, a girl from the Ukraine and a couple from Argentina....A great discussion before bed. Tomorrow, I will make myway to a place near the airport so I have easy access to my flight Friday morning. It will be great to be headed home! That’s it for now....goodnight from Porto, Portugal!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    2Aguda, Portugal along the breakwater.
    My ride from Spain.Porto, just outside the train station.Along the train platform,1Aguda beach.The local ambulance service...1AgudaAnd more...One of the many fishing boats on the beach.

    Santiago, Spain to Aguda, Portugal.

    21. mai 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Hello form Aguda, Portugal. I left this morning from Santiago at 615 am. A couple of train rides later, I find myself in Aguda...a beach town that compares to York/York Beach with a little OOB thrown in during the summer. Right now, it is pretty calm....a huge beach and crazy surf but nobody on the beach due to the wind. I arrived at around one and had a talk with one of the Fire/EMS guys at the station on the way into town who offered me a place to sleep at the station tonight. They are way behind us when it comes to protocols which he was very cynical about. I mean way behind like back in the 80’s for us. So, I sit here writing this at a small cafe in town who’s owner cooked me dinner tonight which was special because she usually does not cook meals on Monday nights. So, tomorrow, the beach here and then I will make my way back to Porto and get to know the city. Goodnight from Aguda, Portugal!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    1Catedral de Santiago.
    The walkway atop the wall in Lugo.The wall from the outside. Photos don’t do it justice.1And again...the wall. And it’s a big beautiful wall. 😉More of it...One of the 10 entrances to the old city inside.The wall from the inside.3The guard dog of the inner city of Lugo I believe.Apparently BLS trucks exist here as well.

    Portomarín to Santiago de Compostela

    20. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Hello from Santiago. Even though I gave up my quest to walk to Santiago, I ended up here anyway as I needed to get here to get to Portugal so it turns out. I walked into the city...not quite the way I intended but walked in just the same. I think the Camino parallels life in many ways...You start out with a plan, work hard at it but in the end, things happen to change those plans and things end up differently. And, one can only hope that the end result still finds you standing and in good shape. As in my case here...it didn’t go as planned but I still managed to walk into the main square and see the Cathedral all in one piece. I completed 275 miles of the Camino. I have unbelievable respect for anyone who walks the whole 500 miles as it is a daunting task and it is very difficult. I left Portomarín this morning via taxi to Lugo because it is Sunday and no buses were running out of Portomarín. I had a 4 hour layover in the city of Lugo which turned out to be a welcomed stopover. The old city of Lugo is completely surrounded by a 3rd century Roman wall that is upwards to 50 feet high. It is the only city in the world that is still completely surrounded by a wall so I read. It has a walking path at the top and is more than a mile around the old city. So, I say goodbye to the Camino with all its good and bad. The good?...the people, the views, the history, the change in the country as you go from east to west, the food, the wine etc. The other positives is that you realize that you might be in a shitty albergue with less than favorable roommates or slogging through the rain wet and miserable but in a few hours or the next day, you maybe having a great time sitting at a cafe and loving life. The bad?...less than desirable bunk mates. I hate to stereotype but I will say that my worst nights in albergues were spent with the French...It was my experience which has been echoed by many others here that they can be the most selfish, self centered people that you can share quarters with and trust me...their needs come first. I know you can’t say that about all of the French but it has been my experience here. The other bad thing?...toilet paper along the path. It seems that a lot of women simply go, wipe and drop the toilet paper and leave it for the rest of us to pass and enjoy. I am not so sure what is so hard about kicking the toilet paper under a rock or some leaves but that doesn’t happen for some reason. But again, on the Camino as in life, you have both respectful people and non-respectful people. I leave via train for Portugal at 6:15 AM. I will arrive in Porto at 10:15 AM. I am shooting for a smaller town 10 miles or so south of Porto. The beach that I am looking at is called...Praia da Aguda. It looks like a pretty cool place. I am not sure what is there as far as accommodations but I guess I will find out tomorrow. Maybe sleep on the beach? Who knows? I have been told that Portugal is cheaper than Spain and the foods better. That sounds great as I found the food and the prices fantastic in Spain. So, that’s it for now, 0500 will come early but only a 10 minute walk to the train station. Goodnight from Santiago!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    Different from the Spanish National flag...the provincial flag of Galacia I think.
    1View from the veranda of my pensione tonight. Loving it!Portomarín....still three miles out or so.Along the way...first cut of the season.Beautiful country...much like home.2Spanish Lawnmowers...2I have been trying to capture one of these in a photo for 3 weeks!1Guess it is going to rain tomorrow!The umbrella ladies. You would never see this on the first three quarters of the trip...Just what you want to see at the end of a long day...

    Sarria to Portomarín

    19. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Hello from Portomarín, Spain. I will start this entry by quoting Forrest Gump when he decided to stop running. “ I’m pretty tired, I think I will go home now....and just like that, my running days was over”. My version: “ I’m pretty tired, I think I will go home now...and just like that, my walking days are over”. So, I left Sarria at around 6:30 am and walked until 4pm. I covered 15 miles...short of the 18 miles that I needed to make reaching Santiago possible. But, throughout the day, I kept thinking about which direction I wanted to head in...keep on as is, or head to Portugal. I have experienced the Camino, the miles, the people, the good and the bad. I have seen the country..from the east to the west. I have found what I needed to find...in the end, I do not need to reach Santiago...it is about the journey and not about any reward at the end. There is a whole other European country just south of me that I have never seen....a great time to see it I think. As I sit here writing this tonight from the veranda of a pensione/albergue in Portomarín. I have a private room for $33 and am sitting on the veranda, sipping local wine at $1.50 a glass, eating local olives which are most likely free and enjoying a great view of the river. And, all the while thinking....I think I will mosey on down to Porto, Portugal tomorrow and check out the city and the beaches before I go home. Who’s the wild man now?! I am feeling like a king as I sit here. I found this place on the edge of town...I should be in the city taking photos but, I have no desire to move from this spot so I think I will order dinner and watch the sun go down right from here. That’s the thing about the Camino, one minute you are slogging through the mud or baking in the hot sun while on the trail but an hour later....you are living life. Yes, my knee hurts and my feet are sore and my clothes have a funky smell by now but hey, sitting out here...wow, I don’t really care. So, I have to plan my travel to Porto...with any luck, Iwill arrive by tomorrow evening. I will keep the blog going as Portugal, I am told is a beautiful place. Goodnight from Portomarín and as always, thank you for checking in!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    4This could be anywhere in Maine.
    My albergue last night.Every cafe in Spain has a juicer machine....they ONLY do fresh squeezed OJ here.My pensione tonight...and those are my clothes hanging out the window drying.A shelter along the way.This place was calling my name for dinner. Galician soup and bread..and of course, red wine.Sarria. At least the old part of Sarria.

    Triacastela to Sarria

    18. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Good evening from Sarria, Spain. Sarria is the starting point for hundreds of people per day that wish to walk to Santiago and earn the Compostela certificate. According to the “rules”, a person must walk the last 100 km to earn the certificate which is 62 miles. I have already walked around 270 miles but it doesn’t mean anything, I must walk the last 62 into Santiago to qualify. Now, having said all that, I couldn’t care less if I get the Compostela or not...it is in Latin so I can’t read it anyway. I also only marginally care if I see Santiago but I would like to see what all the fuss is about when it comes to Santiago. I am simply interested in finishing what I started. So, here is the deal. I really need to be in Porto, Portugal by next Thursday as my flight leaves for home on Friday morning. I really should arrive in Portugal on Wednesday to give myself some breathing room. Sooo...that means I need to cover 18 miles a day for the next four days so I can be in Santiago on Tuesday. I have been slowed up with my knee issue so it has put on more pressure. I have dumped all of the weight out of my pack to lighten the load. Bare necessities at this point. Anything that I could do without got dumped. Tent...clothes except for the bare minimum...flashlight...anything that weighed anything...it’s only stuff. But, I still don’t know if I can pull this off. I do risk not having a tent if I cannot find a bed but I can find someplace to throw the sleeping bag down under cover if I have to. I will tell you that the past couple of days, with the leg issues, that it has been tempting to jump on a train to Portugal and lay on the beach for the next few days but I haven’t given up yet. So, out the door at 0600 in the morning and we will see how it goes. That is it from Spain tonight, I hope this finds everyone well.Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    2A Pilgram statue at the top of a mountain. Very artistic with the sun behind the statue I think!
    3A small deserted town...cool church though.2Along the way...The road ahead.1Galician cows.2Nothing like a donkey chewing grass on Main Street!7The view from my albergue this morning....we were pretty high up.Eddie Smyth....R.I.P.!Along the way...

    O Cerbreiro to Triacastela

    17. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Good evening from Triacastella, Spain. I left O Cerbreiro this morning around 730 am. It was a painful morning albergue wise as many many people were trying to get ready at once. But, $8/night...guess you have to take the good with the bad. The walk today was a lot of uphills and downhills. The downhills are actually worse. The day ended with a 4 mile long decent into Triacastela. And, to top off a trying afternoon, I got in late and the only bed was in a shitty albergue but hey, it’s a roof, a bed and a shower....trust me, that’s about it. The tent came close to coming out of the bag again. I am in a four person room with a Spanish couple in their 60’s...they speak no English so no conversation. I current am in a cafe/bar in town having dinner...The Galician specialty of Octopus, bread and of course, red wine. Plus, I get to use their WiFi as there is none at the albergue. I am starting to have issues with my left knee...it is pretty inflamed and is becoming an issue for the last couple of days especially in the afternoon. It took me a long time today to reach town and because of it which creates more issues like bed availability because you arrive into town late. Oh well, no one promised me that it would be easy. I am around 80 miles out currently. That is it for now, I hope this finds everyone well!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    2Donkey!
    2A place along the way...1Up, always up today.2Never know what you will see on the path.The Province of Galacia at last!Along the trail...The thatched roofs of Galacia.The Iglesia of O Cebreiros2Ahhh...the reward at the end of the day...$5.00!,,3View from my albergue tonight.

    Las Herrerias to O Cebreiro

    16. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Hey, so thank you for checking in. I left Las Herrerias heading west and found myself in a insanely uphill climb through the Galician mountains. Uphill for at least 6 km’s. The plus side was that the scenery was amazing. I landed in the Galician town of O Cebreiro....an amazing town full of history dating back to the Roman Empire. As I came through town, I hadn’t planned on staying here but a group of Australians that I had met along the way convinced me otherwise. So, I find myself in a huge albergue..170 beds..sleeping next to and above many other people. It’s tough but it’s cheap...6 euro, so, $8 US. So after the usual shower and planning for tomorrow, I came to town, had some wine and dinner and will be in bed soon. 10pm...the doors close and lock. The price you pay for cheap lodging. I hope this finds everyone well....goodnight from a small town in the hills of Galacia!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    1Hello Mr. Stork!
    A town along the way...1Billy goats up on a steep hill.Yet another small town...2190 km’s!A little hamlet along the way.1In town Las Herrerias.Entering Las Herrerias.1Just a small little bridge in town...Pretty much the whole town.

    Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias

    15. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Hello from Laguna de Castille...a small town up in the Galician mountains. I arrived last night into Las Herrerias, a small town of 30. I found a small pensione with a private room for a little more than an albergue so I grabbed it up. The walk was pretty uneventful and not real scenic from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias. The hike followed a stream and a highway most of the day. Today is a very scenic day through the mountains and I will send out an update tonight if I have decent WiFi. Take care and thank you for checking in!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    The Iglesia de Santiago greeted me in Villa Franca del Bierzo.
    3Along the way...Santiago 220....that’s km’s not miles thank god.Our Spanish brothers responding code 3.1Vineyards again, thank god. I hope wine goes down again. $1.50/ glass lately has been killing me!2The rain behind me...made it to town without it catching me though.Interesting how they built these old houses.Getting a more European feel to the towns.2The river through town.Foot soaking stop...the cold water acts as ice and helps...A LOT!

    Ponferrada to Villa Franca del Bierzo

    14. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Good morning from some small village west of Villa Franca del Bierzo where I woke up this morning. I left Ponferrada yesterday morning around 7am and arrived in Villa Franca del Bierzo at around 3pm. The walk was through a few small towns and I am back into vineyards once again. I stayed in a new albergue last night. I was referred to this place by another albergue who was nearly full. The lady who owns it is struggling to make it even though it is a nice place. It was nearly empty except for 3 other people. She doesn’t have a cafe/bar and her WiFi is terrible so it turns a lot of people away. But, she was a very nice lady in her late 60’s I would guess. She even did my laundry for me...washed/dried and folded. And the fact that there were only 3 other people in the large bunk room, I slept very well which is first for an albergue for me. Other than all that, I am just knocking out the miles to Santiago. I hope everyone is well!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    Lots of tributes to Saint James along “The Way”.
    Leon.In case you were wondering what a Spanish police car looked like.2Near my albergue...note the huge stork nest.Another Camino tribute nearby.4Just because I am a sensitive guy....

    Leon to Ponferrada

    13. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Hello from Ponferrada, Spain. First off, Happy Mother’s Day to my Mom...thank you for all of your support! I took it easy today and got myself to Ponferrada. I stayed in a small hotel last night so, unlike an albergue, check out time was not until noon. That enabled me to sleep in and take my time this morning. I also got my flight booked to come home this morning. I have an 8:30 am flight on Friday the 25th out of Porto, Portugal landing in Boston at 1:20 pm. An 11 hour flight but I lose 6 hours with the time difference. I will take the train or bus to Portland and Connor is picking me up there. I met up with two older gentlemen from London last night in Leon. They had just arrived and begin walking to Santiago today. They are taking the easier method of walking the Camino....they walk until they are tired and call someone from their booking agency to drive them to the next town. We met up at a cafe and when they learned I had been walking for almost three weeks, they wanted to here some of my stories. As it turned out, we had dinner together and had a great political discussion among other topics. The really great part?...they bought the wine!...which was the really good stuff! I arrived at the bus depot in Ponferrada at around 3pm. I had a 2mile or so walk to find the Camino path and a place to stay around 4:30. I ended up in a small albergue. I had dinner tonight with an engineer from Frankfort, Germany and a physician from Barcelona, Spain. Again, great discussion and food. Tomorrow, I am on the trail again...15 miles to the next town. I will enter the province of Galicia in the next couple of days. Galacia is very mountainous and the scenery is stunning I have been told so the photos from here on in to Santiago should be great. Galacia also has a huge Celtic influence so that should be interesting to see. It is also known for its seafood...especially octopus and I will be trying that out for sure. It is also very mountainous, so I will be grinding up and down huge hills once again. That’s it from here...I hope this finds everyone well!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    Leon, Spain
    1The Castilla in Leon.1A beautiful city..1My refuge for tonight1This is a real woman....she doesn’t move for hours.2And apparently , bachelorette party’s are a thing in Spain as well!

    Castrojeriz to Leon

    12. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    Hey, from the city of Leon, Spain. So, today, reality took over. I woke up this morning in a small town on the meseta in central Spain. I knew as I have known for days that as much as I walked, I would not have enough days to get to Santiago. My choices were to ask for two more weeks off so I would have the time to complete this trip or to travel forward by bus or train. I decided that I cannot ask my coworkers to cover me for an additional two weeks and to be honest, I have no desire to be out here for an additional two weeks anyway. So, instead of slogging through the rain on the meseta with no realistic goal in sight, I decided to catch a bus to Leon. I have a difficult time with this as I set out to complete the whole 500 miles but will fall short of that goal. But, at the same time, I do realize that I set very difficult goals for myself. I thought I could bang out the 16 miles a day pace without rest days and complete this in 32 days. To the contrary, I have discovered that unless you are a marathoner, young and in shape, that is not a realistic goal. My son could do it in that time frame being 19 and in shape from a lacrosse season, but not I. Soooo...I will start again on the trail from Ponferrada on Monday morning. That is 128 miles from Santiago. I have been averaging 12 miles per day for the past 2 1/2 weeks. I will need to average 15 miles per day to get to Santiago, give myself time to get to Portugal and get my ass on a plane back home on the 25th of this month. But, at least this is an obtainable goal. I will settle for the 328 miles walking...short of my goal...but okay in my mind. I have already accomplished what I set out to do when I started this. Also, there are many ways to do this trek. Many people send there pack forward by courier....I have chosen to grind it out with my pack on my back the whole way...as I will continue to do till the end. Not many photos today as it was more a travel day and a logistical planning day for me. Goodnight from Leon.Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    3From my albergue, right before bed tonight
    This little stopover halfway here...pretty amazing.And the guy who runs it...an amazing guy.And his dog!Hobbit hole?My refuge for the night.View from my albergue.An old Knights Templar castle.Coming into town today.1This greeted me as I left Hontanas...just in case I was wondering how far I still had to go. 🤨

    Hontanas to Castrojeriz

    11. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Hello from Castrojeriz, Spain....another town on the meseta. I had a good walk here this morning. I had to make a decision between this town and another town a lot further away with a lot fewer beds and lodging which would have been tough getting in after 4pm so I opted for this town. This albergue I am staying at has a 10th century wine cellar underneath it which we got a tour of....pretty amazing. Unfortunately, it was too dark for photos. That’s it for now, off to sleep as it is 10pm here. Thanks as usual for checking in!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    In the middle of nowhere...placed by a pilgrim I would guess.
    A lot of artists along the trail.2A small chapel where a woman placed a small medallion around your neck.2Inside the chapel1The long road ahead...Always small towns to walk through...The Meseta..A lot..1Of nothing.Coming down the hill into Hotanas.

    Tardajos to Hontanas

    10. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Hello everyone from Castrojeriz, Spain. I was not able to post yesterday due to the WiFi situation in Hontanas. Apparently there was no internet working in the town. When I say in the town, I mean the two or three albergues that cater to pilgrim travelers because other than that, there were no signs of life. The walk through the meseta was cold and blustery but fortunately, it was a east to west wind so it was at my back all day. I arrived in Hotanas at around 3 pm and there were not many beds available so I grabbed up one. Like I have said, albergues are not my favorite but it was threatening rain and there was no shelter for my tent. I ended up in a room with a guy from Georgia, one from Boston and a guy from Germany. It was a decent night all in all. They served a pilgrim meal at one big table for all of the travelers which consisted of chicken paella, salad, dessert and all the red wine anyone could ever want. The chicken paella was delicious which they served in a huge wok shaped pan on the table. One unique thing about Hotanas is that you approach it for miles and can’t see it until you are on top of it and you start down into this little valley. That’s all I’ve got for now, I hope this finds everyone well and thank you as usual for checking in!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    2The iconic scene from “The Way”
    Thank God for these!On the way out of town this morning...2Entering TardajosThis has been here awhile...4Around town tonight...kind of a ghost town.The bell tower in Tardajos...every town has one.Kind of sad. This once was a thriving town I would bet.2My refuge for the night.

    Burgos to Tardajos

    9. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Greetings from the small town of Tardajos....just west of Burgos on the Meseta. The Meseta is known as the high plateau in central Spain. Whatever it is or whatever it is called, it is a week of no shade and high temps. I left Burgos this morning and headed west. It took some time to get out of the city but one point of interest to me...I came to this place in the road and recognized it immediately when I saw it which is odd because I have never been here before but it was a spot where a big scene in the movie “The Way” was filmed. As I said, I landed in this small town of Tardajos...population 950. I am not sure where everyone is because I have only seen about 10 locals. A lot of the town is boarded up as are a lot of these small Spanish towns. I checked into a pretty modern albergue for $13 for the night complete with a nice cafe/bar and laundry facilities. Some albergues have a washer and dryer but they want around $10 to use them. They also offer hand washing sinks and clothes drying racks for free, which is the option I chose as most people do here. I am sharing a room tonight with 2 German guys, two sisters from Arizona and a young girl from Australia. A very nice bunch as most people are that are walking. I had the “pilgrim meal tonight which is a 3 course meal with wine...for a decent price and the portion size is always very good as well. The hard part about albergues is that you need to be out by 8am...rain or shine. The price you pay for cheap lodging I suppose. That’s it for now, off to sleep in a few. I hope everyone is well! Thank you for checking in!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    2View at my first rest stop of the morning
    Typical town that you pass through daily4A monument at the top of the mountain I hiked over.Burgos off in the distance.A small town a km off the Camino.I have no words for this...My refuge for the night...a little more comfortable than last night.Cathedral de Burgos1Another side of the Cathedral de Burgos....again photos don’t capture the vastness of it.1Only one of many many chambers inside.

    Ages to Burgos

    8. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Good morning to everyone. I packed up my tent and left Ages at around 7:30 am in the morning. I walked a couple of miles and came across a place for breakfast. After a coffe and an apple pastry, I was on my way again. The walk to Burgos took me up over a mountain, which was quite steep I might add, and the path ran along a Spanish military base. Once at the top, I could see Burgos...still a 4 hour walk off in the distance. I have officially walked 180 miles of the Camino but with the added daily walking within the towns to find lodging, walking to find food....I beilive I am actually approaching 200 Miles. I had a nice hotel in Burgos...very inexpensive by American standards...with breakfast, my own room and shower. You really start to appreciate all these things when you can find them. Living and sharing facilities in an albergue gets old. I went to the huge church in Burgos....I have never seen a church so vast in my life...photos don’t do it justice. It took me 15-20 minutes just to walk around the structure on the outside. It was built from 1221-1260 I think. I can’t believe that building so huge and so ornate would be possible with the tools and means of that time period. But huge it is. That’s it for now...I hope this finds everyone well!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    2The welcoming committee into Ages.
    Leaving Villafranca this morning...heading up the huge hill2Goodbye little town...goodbye cool pensione...goodbye comfy bed...Through the forest we go!2An oasis!Apparently forestry is a thing here in Spain as well.2Some bored or creative pilgrims at some point along the way3Inside the church I am sleeping at. Built in the 16th century.2The outside and the stork nest.4And my refuge for the night!

    Villafranca Montes de Oca to Ages

    7. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Hello from Ages, Spain...a small town, population 65 that is just east of the large city of Burgos. I left my very comfortable pensione this morning around 8am and after a long walk through a forest, I arrived in Ages at around 2:30. There were no hotels with inexpensive rooms..only albergues, which are getting tiresome because of the whole bunk room situation. So...I decided to haul the tent out of the bag and give that a try. I went to the local church...the 16th century Iglesia de Santa Eulalia....complete with a very large stork nest at the top. There was an elder Spanish woman who was apparently the overseer of the church and after explaining, mostly with sign language, that I wished to set my tent up in the courtyard, she was very happy to let me do so. This is the way that the Camino was done in the old days before the whole albergue infrastructure was in place....people stayed in church courtyards, hay lofts etc. As I write this, I am getting some dinner at a local cafe and using their WiFi. That is about it for now....tomorrow, I walk into Burgos. Take care all and thank you for checking in!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    3On my way into Villafranca.
    A scene from Indiana Jones?The town square of a small town along the “Way”.1Not sure what this is but it looked cool and old!My “refuge” for the night.2A fairly new church....1700’s2Kitchen of my Pensione tonight.3A small town “Supermarket”1Making dinner in a Spanish town I can barely pronounce...but calming in a simplistic way.1Life on the Camino...poles in the bucket...shoes at the door!

    Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca

    6. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The Camino de Santiago. I read about it, I watched videos about it but nowhere in my research let me know how hard it is to do. Your feet hurt all of the time. But through the hurt, things are happening physically that are really good. First, I think that I have lost 15 lbs and a pant size already. Cardiovascular wise? I can actually make it up a long hill now without huffing and puffing and feeling like I want to die. I am drinking between 3 & 4 liters of water each day. I have made some adjustments which makes things easier....like stuffing my IPad..which is my camera...under my chest strap for easy access, putting my fanny pack on my side instead of my front so it doesn’t impede my stride....little things like this help. Another story from the Camino: I met a guy volunteering at the Albergue a couple of towns ago...he has hiked the Camino 23 times. His dad...hiked the Camino 30 times starting in 1957. I just want to make it through it once...that’s hard enough! It’s interesting when it comes to the locals response to you as you walk through their towns. Some people are really indifferent and show no signs of even noticing you. Others however, give you a big smile and say: Hola! Buen Camino! The Camino is a big deal to a lot of Spanish people...it seems and they respect you for making the trek. I have met a fair amount of Spanish people that are trekking...it looks very good on a resume here apparently. Maybe some are doing it for that reason, maybe for deeper meaning...not really sure. It’s funny though...I have walked through bad neighborhoods, past gang type people but it’s like an unwritten rule here...don’t mess with a pilgrim and they leave you be. I find myself tonight in a small town, I am in a little pensione which compares to a small b&b in Maine. A nice room, shared bathroom and just overall, quaint and classy. I face an uphill climb of 5.6km up over a mountain in the morning. I stopped here because I just couldn’t face that hill at 2pm and already tired and sore. So I head out in the morning, packing the meal I cooked tonight...a full water bottle and hopes that I make it up and over before it gets to hot. Thank you for checking in as usual! I hope this finds everyone well!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    Passed into a new Province. Castilla y Leon
    Have a bale of hay, or 5000!The last few kilometers into a town...always a bitch!Thank god...a fountain in the distance. Damn! No good 🙁2This passport gets you the cheap lodging. Always a stamp to prove you have covered the distance.Belorado’s town square.And my haven for the night.BeloradoA small church close by my albergue.

    Santo Domingo to Belorado

    5. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Hello from Villambistia, Spain....as usual, thank you for checking in. I left Santo Domingo yesterday morning at around 7:30 am and arrived in Belorado at 3pm. I did not post last night due to being busy with the festivities in the albergue. There are a bunch of people that are traveling in a group and I have been running into them a lot and they invited me to join them. So between that and a great political discussion with two young political science majors from Germany and Denmark....the ole blog got neglected. The political discussion was great...the girls had never actually met a Trump supporter in person so they were very interested in my views on American politics. I like to think that they walked away a little more enlightened. 😉. The walk yesterday was through mostly grassy fields and small towns. I started listening to the music on my iPad for the first time on the walk....it actually adds a whole other dimension to the walk. Nothing says healing like walking through a 900 year old town with “YMCA” blasting through the earphones! As I write this, I am at a cafe in a small town between destinations....I am not sure where the final destination is today as beds and rooms are getting more difficult to find. The tent may be coming out soon. That’s all for now and thank you again for checking in!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    2A group headed to Santiago as well!
    The hill out of Najera.The ghost town.4The long and winding road.Santo Domingo....still a ways off. But at least I could see the church.Our Spanish Brothers....Door into the Albergue....I bet this door weighs at least a thousand pounds!My refuge for the night.The rest of it...it is huge.

    Najera to Santo Domingo

    4. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Hello from Santo Domingo, Spain. I got a late start from Najera this morning, so I arrived a little later to Santo Domingo at around 4pm. I met up with an 81 year old Australian guy named James on the way into town. He was at least a km behind me and caught up with me in under an hour. He walked the AT at the age of 65, walked the full length of the UK in his 70’s and now the Camino at age 81. I am a little embarrassed to admit that he crossed the Pyrenees in 7 hours at age 81 and it took me twice that long. Very humbling. He is actually in the bunk next to me tonight in an old monastary run by a group of nuns. The trip here today was uneventful really....lots of vineyards, grassy fields and hills, a 14 mile day. One note of interest...I walked through a literal ghost town today...very weird. Apparently a developer created an upscale community complete with a golf course and hundreds of condos...the whole thing flopped and it was abandoned as is. It felt like I was in a nuclear area like Chernobyl in Russia in the 80’s. Tomorrow I will attempt to make it to Belorado. Some stories from the Camino: On the same day I crossed, a guy arrived at the Albergue Orrison (the only refuge on the Pyrenees crossing) at around 5pm...they had no room for him and turned him away. He went a mile up the trail, pitched his tent and settled in until the wild horses came along and destroyed his tent...scared the guy half to death apparently but I hear he survived okay. I met a 19 year old kid hiking the Camino backwards...started in Portugal and is walking to his home in England...about a 4 month trip. There is apparently another guy from Maine hiking somewhere near me but haven’t met up with him yet. That’s it from here for now....I am getting there. I have walked over 100 miles so far but can’t pin down the exact number but that means I am 20% of the way and still alive! Take care, I hope this finds everyone well!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    2A “Guardian” for pilgrims along the Way.
    My breakfast sop...thank God for these!Da fountain...The view along the Way.The ever expected uphill trail just to keep it interesting.Music along the way...2They deliver beer here like we deliver heating oil!!3Heaven!My home for the night.Some rock formations around town...

    Navarrete to Najera

    3. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Hola from Najera, Spain! I left the Albergue at around 0715 this morning...first stop...a cafe for breakfast. After a breakfast of fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee and a ham & cheese croissant and a stop at the town fountain to fill my water bottle...I was off. The hike to Najera was blustery and partly sunny....a bit cold but I am prepared for any weather so not a problem. The hike took me through mostly vineyards but did add the occasional path with a never ending hill just to remind you who is the boss. I arrived in Najera around 1pm and stopped into a cafe for lunch...a chorizo & egg bocadillo and a coke. I arrived in town and decided to get a small hotel instead of an albergue. A hotel is more expensive but you have a private room and a bathroom instead of a bunk room and shared facilities in an albergue. Also, albergues have lots of rules...lights out at 10pm..lights on at 7am...bunk rooms, so it is difficult to sleep...that type of thing. My hotel tonight is the best yet...a great room and bed and a bathtub! Heaven on the Camino! Tomorrow I set out for Santo Domingo...a 14 mile hike. That’s all from Najera for now...hope all is well!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    3An artist I met...depicting his Pyrenees crossing. He is spot on!!
    So talented...glad I met him.A spot along the way to Navarrette.My home for the night.I can’t do these churches justice with a photo...they are so immense!What $2.80 gets you in Navarrette. No complaints here!Typical passage throughout the town.This is a small hotel near where I am staying...pretty cool..wish I had found it before my albergue.Nothing says relaxing with a beer or glass of wine next to an 800 y/o church!Laundry drying at the ole albergue!

    Lograno to Navarrette

    2. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Hola from Navarrette, Spain. I am in a small town between the larger towns of Lograno and Burgos. So, a couple things have happened...I have discovered that I cannot walk 17-18 miles per day through hills and valleys, get into a town and search for a place to stay at 5 or 6 pm. I am too tired and there is limited rooms and most are taken by that time of day. Sooo, I plan on hiking until one or two o’clock, and dumping into the closest town which may or may not have WiFi...so, If you don’t hear from me, don’t worry...just off the grid. I reached Navarrette at around noon today...met up with two hikers that I have gotten to know, Kristy from Australia and Ellen from Virginia...had lunch at a cafe and they
    proceeded on to the next town and I stayed put here. I found a great Albergue in the center of town for around $10. I settled in, did some laundry and walked around town some. I am sharing a room with a group of Canadian woman from Ontario and they invited me for dinner in the Albergue kitchen. They cooked, I mostly sipped wine and sliced some chorizo but a good time had by all. I plan to head out at around 730 am...not sure what my destination is as of yet but somewhere west of here. That’s about it from Spain...hope all is well back home. Thank you for checking in!    Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    4

    Los Arcos to Logrono

    1. mai 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Today was an exceptionally tough day. My guide book said: “Enjoy the views as you walk through the beautiful rolling hills of La Rioja vineyards”. Well, that sounds beautiful but it translated to having to hump your pack up and down a lot of hills! My goal today was not to push it to Logroño as it was to far, however I reached Viana where I planned to stay and I could not find a bed or a room so I pushed on with a guy named James from the UK where he had a room booked in Logrono. We limped into Logrono at around 6pm. An 18 mile day which would have been fine had it been flat...but the hills...Ugh! I plan on a shorter day tomorrow...it is only an 8mile hike to the small town of Navarrette so I am shooting for that. Take care, I hope everyone is well. Thank you for checking in!Les mer

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  • Phils TravelBlog SpainCamino de Santiago 2018Reisende
    3A view from my office today!
    6Da wine fountain2Lots of vineyards.2These are getting a huge workout!Brunch stop for the day.2The attic suite.My home for the night.Iglesia de Santa Maria in Los Arcos.1Inside....wow!1And my little corner of the world tonight!

    Estella to Los Arcos

    30. april 2018, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Hey! Hello from Los Arcos, Spain...I hope everyone is well. I left Estella at 730 am after a great breakfast of rolled up salami & ham, croissant, orange juice and coffee. My first stop was to the wine fountain located 3 km out of town. The local winery offers the wine at no cost to pilgrims. They give a 100 liters/day. Tradition says that you fill your scallop shell that you carry and drink the wine for strength for the walk. So...I did just that. The scenery was amazing today and I have a lot of photos, but unfortunately I can only post 10 photos per day on this blog. The walk to Los Arcos was around 14 Miles today which went much better than yesterday. After a couple of stops for rest and lunch, I made it to Los Arcos at around 3pm. I arrived at an albergue and the guy at the desk informed me that the only beds he had left were on the attic level and it was only a mattress on the floor. And I said, Perfect! So, 10 euro for the “bed”...use of the facilities and breakfast....11 euro for dinner at a cafe beside the church, 3 euro for a caraf of wine while I write this....so, around $30 Not bad for all of that. That’s the great part about albergues. And Sam the Golden retriever is staying here as well! Tomorrow, most people are heading for Lograno which is a 17 mile walk. That is a long day so I may pull up short in Viana which is a walled city with a lot of cafes and such. Sometimes it is better to take the path less traveled...less crowded albergues etc. So, going to hit send on this and settle in, 9pm as I write this. Thank you for checking in!Les mer

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