February 2024

Nuku Hiva’s cathedral is built on ground considered sacred by ancient Marquesans. It was on these “paepae tapu” (sacred grounds) that sacrificial rites took place, including tattooing, sculpting, and the recitation of poems to transmit their history.

Enter the Spaniards, who brought horses, descendants of which still roam the island. Next came the French, who claimed this remote island as their own.
In 1848, France sent the Bishop Dordillon to lead the Catholics of Nuku Hiva, and his grave is inside the church at the foot of a wooden carving of “Our Lady of the Marquesa Islands” aka “Maria Peato te Kui o te Fenua Enata.”

A statue of Bishop Dordillon stands on a hill beside the cathedral. It is carved from a centuries-old tou as an homage to the tou tree beneath which he often enjoyed some shade.

Having grown up in France, I’m sure the heat and humidity of Nuku Hiva were something to contend with.

As I hiked up the path for a closer look at his statue, a medley of tropical birdsong accompanied me. Try as I might, I was unable to get a good enough look at the feathered crooners to ID them.

In 1853, the chief of Nuku Hiva and his wife decided “if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em” and converted to Christianity. In return, they expected schools and teachers. Giving their kids a European style education seemed a good way to cope with all their changing world.

The Marquesans are reknowned throughout Polynesia for the quality of their wood carvings. I was intrigued by the syncretic details they were included, such as the tiki head and hooks at the feet of Saint Paul. The hooks refer to Marquesan rituals. I’m not sure what the tiki means.

I’m very curious about another symbol as well; I saw it all over the island. I’m talking about the squiggly symbol next to the words “Nuku Hiva” in the photos I’ve shared here.

I learn a lot on our travels, but there’s always so much more to learn!Read more