New Town

We both slept well after a less than relaxing introduction to the city of Edinburgh, what with our washing and all that. But Edinburgh is not about washing, despite its immediacy and importance.

Today, we planned two things. We ended up doing three, and completely overdid it, both becoming tired, tetchy and very out of sorts. We settled, but it took some hours to get there. Tomorrow is a lay day, and boy do we need it. Nothing planned at all. We'll just stop.

We had a 12.30pm tour of Edinburgh Castle booked, so that meant we had some hours to kill before the tour. We also had to get back to the laundrette before it closed at 4pm till the day after the Queen's funeral, by which time we'll be in Glasgow. So, time meant everything and we had to be careful. Stress number one.

We walked into the city from our apartment in Stockbridge. I don't know whether this was wise, because Chris' sore foot starting acting up about ten minutes into the walk. His limp became more and more pronounced and I knew that he would not last on it all day. As for me, I have a perennial sore foot due to the use of orthotics and I can't last a whole day either. Stress number two.

Once coffee-ed, we decided we would go to the Scottish National Gallery, there to look at their early works. This was a great decision. We both enjoyed it immensely and got to see the work of many masters and of course, Scotland's beloved Monarch of the Glen.

I was taken by a work by Vermeer based on the biblical story of Mary and Martha. I also loved a portrait of Achilles in despair at the death of his lover Patroclus, a rare rendering of same sex love in the art world of the time. And finally, I was quite taken by a painting by Raphael in 1506-07 of the Holy Family and a Plam Tree, where Joseph is unusually given some prominence. Raphael painted it in the round, which format Chris uses very frequently in his art, and for which I learned a new term today. A painting painted in a circle is a tondo. A national gallery like this is a special place and is worth more than one visit, but alas, we were on the clock. A lovely morning.

After the gallery, we walked past the towering Scott monument, reputed to be the largest, tallest monument to a writer in the world. The Scots love Sir Walter Scott. He promoted the romantic ideal that we have of Scotland today more than anyone.

Thence up the hill to the Royal Mile. This 1.8km stretch of road has a history of kings and queens processing up and down it for all manner of important occasions. Today however, it is a throng of people walking past touristy shops and inns. It's famous, but it's not great. It starts at the base of Edinburgh Castle and ends at the monarch's offical royal residence in Scotland, Holyrood House. I would have enjoyed going through Holyrood, but it was closed due to the Queen's passing.

Chris and I decided we would not finish the Royal Mile so turned around and put our backs into the incline having seen about twenty minutes of it on the decline. Our stress levels were by this time pretty high. Literally thousands of people surrounding us, our feet in pain, tired and sore, and a bit over it frankly, we ducked into the Deacon's House Cafe to sup on good coffee, a shortbread and some lemon drizzle cake, and to give our feet a rest before the challenge of the castle.

Finally, it was off to Edinburgh Castle, a castle more prominent in the city than probably any other castle in any other city in the world. It sits, perched atop an extinct volcanic escarpment and has views over the city in 360° and out to sea. It is monstrously big. It's a bit like a fancy wedding cake, with layer upon layer just going up and up.

We had also booked a guided tour of the castle that down loads onto your phone. Problem was that the app downloaded onto my phone in a few seconds flat, but not onto Chris'. Oh my goodness. He tried and tried, and the damn thing would not download. It sat infuriatingly at about 4.1% for about ten minutes. Chris had had enough. He needed time out, so went off through the castle just to look at things. I went off and did my own thing for about an hour and then met up with him again.

I saw the Scottish crown jewels, the crown and two sceptres, and a scabbard I think. I also saw the Stone of Scone, called the Coronation Stone down south, upon which all Kings and Queens are crowned. It sits in a special cavity underneath St Edward's Chair, which we saw in Westminster Abbey and upon which King Charles III will be crowned in due course. I saw the Great Hall, and a war memorial. I saw the canons pointed out out over the city, I saw the history of the Stuarts and Mary Queen of Scots, and I saw the inside of the gift shop at which I bought a tea towel and a fridge magnet. Very warrior-like of me, don't you think.

We walked back to the laundrette, quite a jaunt, our feet on fire and falling off our legs, collected the laundry from a very helpful and cheery Scottish woman who said 'okey dokey' in her lovely accent, which despite all, did make me happy. We returned home, and set out for a local drink and a coffee.

It was one of those days you have when travelling. The Gallery and the Castle were both wonderful places to visit. I will never forget them. But right now, we're happy to stay in tonight, drink some wine, eat some chocolate, and have nothing planned at all for tomorrow.En savoir plus