United States
Wrangell-Petersburg Census Area

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    • Day 15

      Wrangell and Tongass National Forest

      August 5, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      Our second paid for excursion, we are in Wrangell and have a local excursion to the hide in the Tongass National Forest. Access to this park is very limited, only 60 permits are available daily in August and you have to be accompanied by a local guide.
      An amazing experience, starting with a jet boat ride at just under 30 knots. Wrangell island is roughly bird shaped with Wrangell at the north most point (the beak), we had to go around the headland to travel south, the island on our right the main land our left. After just over an hour and 30 miles south, we saw the ranger station cabin for the area on the shore, 50 yds further on was a small beach which our boat ran up and we disembarked and walked up the beach to the trail head.
      We organised into a line with a guide at the front and rear of the column, both guides had guns as a precaution as the bears also use this trail to go up to the hide and for the final 100yds you need one of the park rangers at the hide to confirm it is safe to cross this section. Progress along the trail was slow, as several companions in the party with paparazzi length lenses on their cameras continual stopped to take photos (was even worse on the way back, the guide at the rear had to keep telling them to move on and close up!). The hide has been built over the lower falls, we are here at the time of the main salmon run as they swim back upstream, for the salmon jumping up these falls against the fast moving river is a major effort, for the bears it is a wonderful opportunity to feast.
      It seems to take the bears so little effort they come to the edge of the river, wade in and only a second or two later leave with a large salmon in their mouths. They appeared to eat very little of the fish they caught, we asked one of the rangers about it and he said this was like phase 2 of their feeding. Phase 1 they eat everything to gain weight, phase 2 they are eating for the oil, so they focus on eating brains, roes and some skin of the salmon, still the bald eagles and other birds are always ready to help finish the plentiful leftovers. Not sure how many black bear pictures/videos we have just a few here, visit if you want to see the full set. Otherwise the eagles were everywhere watching and soaring between the various tree perches around. A brown bear and her cub appeared a short distance downstream where there is a small lake, but the distance does make them difficult to spot against the fallen trees at the point where the stream enters the lake.
      Like all these Alaskan photos, the picture never full captures the view or the experience. On the return trip in the jet boat we passed an island of harbour seals sunning themselves. Again we have been lucky with the weather, although misty and dull early on when we were at the observation centre apart from a few sprinkles of rain on one occasion visibility was good, but once we had passed the seals the rain came back more intense this time and a cloudy mist descended into the trees along the shoreline and is continuing like this as we slowly leave Wrangell.
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    • Day 25

      Northern Lights

      Yesterday ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      It is frightening to be jarred out of slumber on a ship in the ocean. Just after 2:00 AM the captain came on the PA and announced that the Northern Lights were visible. We had all been bummed by reports of people around the world seeing Aurora Borealis while we remained under constant cloud cover. Early this morning that changed. The decks were packed within minutes. The spectacle was ethereal.Read more

    • Day 4

      Everything about whales

      July 18, 2022 ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Ich war heute bei einem Talk über Whales von Mark Harris.
      Er sagte, wenn man Wale sehen möchte, dass es am besten ist, zwischen Januar und März nach Hawaii zu gehen, denn da sind viele Wale um ihre Kälber aufzuziehen. Die Mütter fressen dann nichts in dieser Zeit aber säugen ihre Kinder. In diesen Monaten verlieren die Buckelwale etwa 1/4 ihres Körpergewichts (von 80.000 pounds auf 60.000- that’s a diet!).
      Wenn sie also zurück in Alaska sind, sind sie richtige „eating machines! Just like you guys!!“ 😂
      Die Wale reisen also 3000 Meilen nach Hawaii um dort die Kälber auf die Welt zu bringen. Denen fehlt zu Beginn ein wichtiges Protein, das Myoglobin, was ihnen ermöglicht, die Luft anzuhalten und bis zu 30 min an Sauerstoff in den Muskeln zu speichern. Dieses Hochstoßen des Kindes Richtung Wasseroberfläche von der Mutter heißt „First Breath“. Die Kinder bilden nach und nach das Protein.
      Die Kälber wiegen ca. 2000 Pfund wenn sie auf she Welt kommen. Die Muttermilch ist mit 35 % Fett sehr nahrhaft, Kinder nehmen pro Tag 100-200 Pfund zu!!
      Wenn die Buckelwale mit ihren Kälbern zurück nach Alaska schwimmen, werden etwa 18-24% von den Kälbern von Killerwalen getötet. Sie isolieren das Kalb von der Herde, ertränken es und essen ausschließen die Zunge und die Lippen. Orkas sind keine Guten, leider.

      Es wird nun immer mehr beobachtet, dass Buckelwale und Grauwale zusammen diese Reise antreten und gemeinsam auf ihre Kälber aufpassen, in dem sie sie in die Mitte einer größeren Herde nehmen. Mark meinte, das ist „altruistic behavior“.

      Blauwale sind die größten Tiere dieser Erde und die Anzahl steigt wieder. Ihre Fontäne ist 10 m hoch, kann man also sehr gut erkennen.
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    • Day 4

      Alles über Wale

      July 18, 2022 ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Wie schlafen Wale? Genauso wie Delfine und Haie: eine Gehirnhälfte ruht, während die andere aufpasst. Sie schwimmen dann kleinere Kreise, habe ich später auch bei einem Minkewal gesehen (der unsanft erwacht ist😂). Man nennt diesen Vorgang „logging“.

      Warum springen Wale? Das weiß man nicht genau. Man vermutet, dass sie damit Parasiten loswerden. Es gibt „Seeläuse“ (sea lice), die sich am Harnkanal festsetzen. Durch springen kriegt man die wieder los.

      Während wir durch Snow Pass gefahren sind, hat Mark eine live Moderation gemacht. Er hat ein bisschen was über die Gegend erzählt, hat gesagt dass dieser Pass der Highway für die Kreuzfahrtschiffe ist. Und dass sich dementsprechend die Tiere darauf eingestellt haben… Vielleicht sieht man Tiere, vielleicht aber auch nicht.

      In Snow Pass läuft das Wasser zuerst in die eine Richtung, aufgrund von Gezeiten, dann in die andere. Die Tiere nutzen das: Sie drehen sich zuerst in die eine Richtung und fressen die Fische, dann drehen sie sich um und fressen noch mehr Fische. Just like you guys 😂

      Wenn man Wale sucht, sollte man auch immer nach den Vögeln schauen. Denn die Vögel sind in der Regel bei den Wahlen mit dabei, weil manchmal was für sie abfällt.

      Während diesen 1,5 Stunden habe ich mehrere Gruppen Schweinswale gesehen und auch mehrere Minkewale. Das sind etwas kleinere Wale, sehen ein bisschen so aus wie Buckelwale.

      Von den Gletschern, die schmelzen, gibt es tidal rip streams. Das sind Ströme von Süßwasser, die sich nicht mit dem Salzwasser vermischen. Sieht wunderschön aus auf Fotos. In manchen Gletscherseen gibt es auch Süßwasser über dem Salzwasser. Süßwasser hat reflektierende Anteile, da kann man tolle Fotos machen.

      Mark machte die Moderation sehr emotional. Er sagte immer wieder „Come out and watch, this is why you are here. This is Alaska, the last frontier.“ Er zeigte auch immer schöne Fotomotive („And here comes Kodak-Moment No. 1“).

      Diese 1,5 Stunden auf Deck waren ein Erlebnis.
      Danach war mir aber kalt.
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    • Day 24

      Frederick Sound

      August 8, 2019 ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      After sailaway from Juneau we passed through the Frederick Sound, where we were treated to dozens of whale sightings under a stunning sunset including some whales very close to our ship. We were also treated, unusually, to three orcas (killer whale) as well as porpoises and seals!Read more

    • Day 24

      Petersburg to Juneau

      August 19, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      We arrived in Petersburg to light showers, it drizzled for most of the time that we were there and we left with light showers so if nothing else the weather was consistent.
      Back on my favourite ferry to date, the Matanuska. It is another over nighter so it was time to sit back, relax and enjoy the changing scenery, What a relaxing way to travel. I am very much enjoying the Marine Highway and the Alaskan ferry system. It was a good choice for us. It was a shame about the weather in Petersburg as I had hoped that we would do a bit of forest hiking but you don't get to choose the weather and thems the breaks.Read more

    • Day 15

      A Bear Affair

      August 10, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      This is an amazing experience, one that I would highly recommend to anyone who is thinking of coming this way. The season for the excursion is a short one as it is only available while the salmon are running (Mid June to mid August). The observatory is placed above the rapids. There are decks looking downstream towards the estuary and upstream. There is also a hide built directly above the rapids. Once at the observatory you book yourself a time for the hide where there are only 6 people at any given time and you have 1/2 an hour. There was an abundance of black bears at the rapids and two juvenile browns who only ventured a little ways up the creek. The browns are king but a juvenile is lower down the pecking order to black adults. Amongst the browns we were fortunate to observe adults, juveniles and new season cubs. One of the younger juveniles had only been cast out by mum in the last few days and was now on his own to fend for himself. He had tried to argue the injustice with his mum but she had firmly clipped him across the mouth and sent him on his way. He was a miserable young chap. He had obviously watched mum demonstrate the art of salmon catching but the skill left him wanting. After many unsuccessful attempts he resorted to eating the rotting carcasses of the rejected meat.Read more

    • Day 20

      Sitka to Petersburg

      August 15, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      A little sleep in this morning. Breakfast at eight, checkout at eleven, store the bags for the duration and off exploring the area with Steve and Ruth.
      First stop the Raptor Centre, then the hatchery which has a small aquarium of rock shelf dwellers. Lunch was at Tokyo - no sushi for me! The meal was ok but definitely tasted better Japanese before.
      The Raptor Centre was interesting.They rescue injured raptors, treat them and, if possible, after bird physio, relaxes a them back into the wild. Of course there are some that can never be and they live out the rest of their lives in relative bird luxury. Those who can't be released are those that have sustained injuries that that prevent them from being able to live back in the wild. Altercations with cars was one of the main causes for this. Highways offer clear spaces to swoop down on prey but a speeding car will always win over a bald eagle. Kily, the Hawke we met in our briefing was imprinted with humans so, although never injured, could never be released into the wild
      Returned to our hotel with plenty of time up our sleeves - luckily as the sailing time of our ferry had been brought forward to suit the tide and we ended up just in time to get our shuttle out to the terminal.
      Tonight is an overnighter so we have a stateroom again and we arrive in Petersburg before sparrow's fart in the wee hours of the morning. Our hostess at the BnB has said that it is the norm and she will be up to greet us and show us to our room. Dedication - we will be there at 4.30am.
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    • Day 13

      On the move. Ketchikan to Wrangell.

      August 8, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      It was a reasonably early start to the day with check-in at the ferry terminal at 7.15am. This section of our ferry cruise is on the Matanuska.
      As Wrangell is just six hours away we put our luggage on the trolley so that that we did not have to worry about it till we reached Wrangell. We lunched on clam chowder then spent the remainder of the journey in the front observation room.
      Once in Wrangell our host, Barb, at Zimovia BnB picked us up, after delivering another Aussie couple back to the BnB, and whisked us back to our lodgings after a brief orientation tour of major sights. Two others issues, Stevie and Ruth, had been on the ferry with us but we only met when we disembarked. They are also spending the night at Barb's
      The BnB rooms as are on the ground floor of Mike and Barb's home and cute as. The Garnet Room is cute as, with ist's fishy theme and our own sauna room, and a kitchen bench with fridge, toaster, sink and two burner top-plate. Compact but comfy. Breakfast supplies are supplied. Because the weather is continuing to be ideal Ruth and Mike are running away to camp for a few days on a nearby island so we are in charge! Promotion comes quickly.
      Wrangell - love at first sight. A gem of a town reminiscent of an old Australian coastal town. With a population of just 3,000 it nestles between the hills and the coastline. Picture postcard perfect.
      Dinnertime we walked down to the Stikine Inn, perhaps the only viable option of a decent meal in such a small town unless we self catered. Of course there is a burger joint, a fish and chippery and the Not So Famous Pizza joint but I think we will probably pass on those.
      So if you are only going to have one decent restaurant option in town the Stikine Inn definitely fit the bill and will be our dining venue of choice for the next four nights. We will work our way through the menu. Not a lot of vegetarian options but a good range of seafood selections. Tonight - shared calamari with sweet chilli sauce and beetroot, spinach, walnut and feta salad.
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    • Day 16

      Last day in Wrangell

      August 11, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Our final day in Wrangell and I think we may have seen the last of the beautiful sunny weather. South East Alaska has now had nine sunny days straight so we have been lucky to experience it. Today is still warm but there is now a nip to the air and the clouds are building up. Today we had a quieter day and our rambles have taken us along the byways east of the township.
      Dinner at the Stikine Inn once again (there really aren't too many other options for a decent meal since burgers and pizza are not usually in our culinary vocab). Tonight we had a rerun of last nights octopus and hot potato salad - not shabby at all.
      We will be sad to leave Wrangell tomorrow. It is a beautiful town - small and super friendly. Half of the fun of being here has been talking to the locals. Town life is relatively slow, all the locals know each other and they are only too happy to stop and have a chat with you.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Wrangell-Petersburg Census Area, Zone de recensement de Wrangell-Petersburg

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