The World on Two Wheels
After discovering the joys of cycling in 2002 I took a group of fellow riders to China in 2006. Since then we have gone on to complete 54 other overseas cycling and trekking adventures which have taken us all over the planet. Leer más🇦🇺Melbourne
    • The Baby is Coming at Last

      3 de marzo, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Over the past 17 years I have put together over 50 overseas adventures. Each one of these has begun as an idea, then slowly evolved over a long period of time before being shared with the rest of the group. That is by no means the end of the process, since there is usually around a year between the sharing of the details and the actual adventure taking place.

      The Kiwi Capers Cycling Adventure followed a typical long gestation period, but now we are finally on the eve of the trip actually getting underway.

      Due to some family issues, my own preparation and packing has been lagging behind, but I am now finally starting to make some real progress. At least my main bag is (almost) packed and weighed, The fact that my luggage scales chose now to break down could be due to the excess wight of my bag, or it is more likely that they were the cheapest ones I could find on eBay.

      So now I don't know how much my bag weighs. At least I can still lift it off the ground at my age, so it can't be too heavy. What is that they say about "what you don't know can't hurt you"? I guess I will find out if that is true.

      In just a couple of days we will be picked up by the airport shuttle in the middle of the night and taken to the airport, along with 6 others from Group 1. At that point of time another adventure will be starting.

      At an age where many of the people I know are incapable (or not willing) of doing much at all, I am forever grateful that we have the chance to share such incredible experiences surrounded by our close friends.

      I have often heard it said that we become like the people we spend our time with. If we surround ourselves with naysayers and negative people, we will inevitably absorb the same attitudes. On the other hand, if you spend your time with positive, happy, adventurous and active people you will be enriched as a result.

      Before we start our cycling in Queenstown, we will first be flying to Auckland in the North Island, so that is where my next footprint will be created. I invite you to share another adventure with me.
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    • Three Weeks to Go

      13 de febrero, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Another adventure is looming large. In three weeks time I will be in Auckland, New Zealand, ready to start the trip that has been so long in the planning.

      Normally, at this close to starting such a trip, I would be packed and just about ready to go. That is certainly not the situation this time. My travel bag has been moved a spare room. That is where it now sits - empty.

      At least I have made a list, so I guess that is some sort of a start. I have the best intentions of actually starting to add items to my bag over the weekend. I wonder if that is what will happen.

      Although the packing is still at a standstill, I have checked and rechecked all bookings, flights, tickets, etc. I have a folder, proudly labelled "New Zealand 2025" where all the important documents are stored. This is how I have approached every previous trip, and nothing disastrous has ever happened on any of them. I have been through this process so many times, that you might think that I could do it blindfolded. Maybe so, but somewhere in the back of my mind, there is always that little nagging voice telling me that I have forgotten something. I hope it isn't true.
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    • The Last Leg

      7 de octubre de 2024, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Although I had reached Singapore, and thus avoided the plethora of current World War III potential starting points. I was still a long way from home. I can never understand those who complain about "what a long flight it is to Brisbane", when only those who have made the journey to Europe or Canada know what long flights really are. They are certainly NOT for the feint hearted (nor apparently for anyone over 70).

      Although I was already operating on no cylinders, I still had to strap myself into yet another plane seat for the final flight back to Melbourne. At least I could take some consolation from the fact that the longest flight was now behind me. At only 7 hours duration, this one would be a walk in the proverbial park by comparison.

      By noon Singapore time I was seated in seat 33A, had exchanged a brief greeting with my next door seat occupant, and was ready to have another attempt at getting some sleep. I am happy to share that this time I had more success. In fact, I was asleep before the plane had left the runway.

      I did manage to stir myself on a couple of occasions, mainly due to the smell of nearby food, but most of the flight was spent in that blissful Land of Nod.

      At about 11 pm Melbourne time, I heard the announcement that we were descending to land. As I glanced out the window, I could see the welcoming lights of the western suburbs. I was (almost) home.

      After exiting the plane and going through the robotic immigration process, I found myself waiting at the luggage carousel to be reacquainted with my familiar blue bag. To my relief (and surprise) it turned out to be the first luggage through the mysterious birthing canal. It was a happy ending to another amazing adventure.

      Six weeks ago I was at the same airport, with the same luggage, anticipating the ride ahead with a mixture of excitement and trepidation. After two years of planning, preparation and execution, it will take some getting used to the knowledge that it is now all over.

      The next few days will be spent resting and trying to readjust to a new time zone. I am looking forward to resuming my rides with my good friends in the Ghostriders, but will also need to turn my attention to our New Zealand rides which are now only 5 months away. I guess it's true when they say that there is no rest for the wicked.
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    • It's a Long Way to Singapore

      6 de octubre de 2024, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      There is just no denying the fact that it is a LONG way from Australia to Europe. For most of us that means being crammed inside a flying metal sarcophagus for an excruciating number of hours.

      This morning I staggered out of my room at the Comfort Hotel at Copenhagen and began the mind numbing journey home. Since I was flying on a Singapore Airlines Flight, it meant that I would first be flying from Copenhagen to Singapore, then completing the journey with another flight from Singapore to Melbourne.

      Since I had only had about three hours sleep in the hotel, I was stupid enough to think that sheer exhaustion would enable me to spend at least some of the 13 hour flight to Singapore asleep. Unfortunately sleep and I were never united during the entire flight.

      As I squeezed myself into the tiny space that was going to be my prison for those thirteen hours, I wondered how I would face the twin challenges of avoiding growing a couple of DVTs during the flight as well as trying to eat my meals without covering the front of my clean shirt with sloppy airline goulash, all while my body was cramped into a space about the size of a small sock drawer. I succeeded at the first challenge but failed miserably at the second one.

      After jamming myself against the wall of the plane with the aid of my pillow and blanket, I tried to pass at least some of the time by watching several movies. Although I did watch at least three movies, for the life of me I cannot remember any of them. That was 6 hours of my life wasted.

      I do recall that I spent an unknown number of hours watching a tiny animated plane slowly crawl across a succession of countries I had never heard of. I guess with all the conflicts breaking out all over the globe, it is little wonder that the airlines must have more and more difficulty in finding a route that does not pass over at least one active shooting zone. That explains why the route of the plane looked like the trail left behind by a drunken snail.

      I think I spent the final few hours in some sort of zombie like twilight zone, before the pilot finally uttered those beautiful words that we were "descending to Singapore". About thirty minutes later I was leaving the plane and immediately impacted by the furnace like heat and humidity of the equatorial city.

      Since I had around three hours to kill before getting aboard the next plane, I went in search of a place to sit in some degree of comfort. I was relieved to see that the Smart Tags I had hidden in my luggage, reported that my cargo luggage had also safely followed me this far.

      Only one more 7 hour flight to go !
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    • A Night Flight to Copenhagen

      5 de octubre de 2024, Dinamarca ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

      It's been a long day. Although the clock might not agree, some days are definitely much longer than others. Today was a whopper.

      After my three days in Salzburg, it was time to begin the long and exhausting journey back home. The day began with packing (ie cramming) my bag for the second last time, checking out of yet another hotel, and dragging my luggage across the road to the Salzburg HBF (central rail station).

      Since I was little early, I was relieved to discover that there was a special lounge for OBB first class ticket holders. Not only did they have nice comfy armchairs, they even had free food and drinks. It certainly justified paying the small extra premium for first class tickets. I was soon joined by Ken and Pauline who were travelling on the same train as me.

      At 10 am we made our way to the waiting train and found our allocated seats. Not only were the seats very comfortable, we were relieved to find the carriage only about 30% full.

      At the allocated time, the train silently pulled out of the station and we were on our way. At one stage I decided to explore the next few carriages, and realised just how fortunate (wise) we were to buy first class tickets. The second class carriages were a complete contrast. Not only was every seat occupied, there were numerous people lying on the floor between carriages. Luggage was jammed in everywhere. It looked positively horrible. I don't think I am a snob, but I was certainly glad to retreat to the sanctuary of first class.

      Three hours later we were rolling into Vienna Central Station. I bounced my luggage down the train steps and then risked doing myself a permanent back injury by carrying them down the long staircase to the concourse. Sometimes travel really is hard work.

      I found my way to the station exit and walked to the nearest taxi. About an hour later (and 50 Euros poorer), I was at the Vienna Airport. Because I had purchased my tickets with Scandinavian Airlines, it meant that I had to travel via Copenhagen, before finally heading in the direction of Australia.

      The problem was that the only flight to Copenhagen did not leave until 9 pm. That meant an interminable 7 hour wait at Vienna Airport. To my relief I was able to check in my cargo luggage immediately (probably because I pretended to be a distressed old man), and was then able to find a quiet spot to read my book while I waited.

      The flight to Copenhagen took off on time, and thankfully my luggage also caught the same flight. About 11 pm, I dragged my luggage from the carousal in Copenhagen and went looking for the airport hotel I had booked for the night. I think I must have walked about halfway to Sweden, before I finally reached the hotel. I had mistakenly thought that Copenhagen Airport would be comparatively small, but I think I discovered that the airport is actually larger than the country !

      I finally staggered into my room near midnight, knowing that in just a few hours I would be boarding the next plane for the mammoth flight to Singapore.
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    • Berchtesgaden, Bavaria and Kings Lake

      4 de octubre de 2024, Alemania ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

      The adventure that began way back on August 26th in Hamburg is now rapidly approaching its conclusion. Tomorrow morning, I will begin the complex series of trains, planes and taxis that will (hopefully) get me from Salzburg back to Melbourne. Although I am looking forward to being back on home soil, it is hard not to feel a little daunted by the ordeal of the next three days.

      Today was my last full day in Salzburg. The glimpses of the surrounding mountains that I sometimes saw between the clouds and drizzle suggested that this really would be a beautiful place on a clear day. Unfortunately, the drizzle has persisted almost nonstop since I arrived, so I will leave feeling a little unfulfilled. The advance weather forecast promises that much better and warmer weather is on its way, and it will probably arrive just as my train is pulling away from the Salzburg Station.

      As I mentioned previously, my main reason for coming to Salzburg was not to do the Sound of Music Tour, it was to travel high into the nearby Bavarian Alps to see the famous Eagles Nest. A couple of days ago we were informed that the road from Berchtesgaden to Eagles Nest was blocked by a vast quantity of snow that had slid down the mountain and destroyed some of the avalanche barriers in the process. I was told today that it is unlikely that the road will be reopened before the end of the season.

      If I was not going to be able to reach the top of the mountain, I decided to at least catch a bus to the Bavarian Town of Berchtesgaden instead. So that is what I did. For a few hours I joined a group of bus tourists and travelled over the German border into Bavaria,

      There is no doubt that the town of Berchtesgaden is extremely picturesque. Even in such gloomy weather, the alpine houses looked like they had been lifted from picture postcards. In spite of the natural beauty of the place, this area has a dark wartime history, with many of the nazi regime owning large holiday homes here.

      The railway station, built during nazi times, still bears the unmistakable hallmarks of their overstated architecture. You can still see the poles where the swastikas were displayed outside the main entrance.

      Although we could not climb the alpine road to the Eagles Nest, we did take an alternate route to the famous Kings Lake. Surrounded by snowcapped peaks, the water in the lake is crystal clear and supposedly safe to drink. Only electric powered boats are allowed on the lake, to prevent pollution of the waters.

      On the way back to Salzburg, the bus stopped next to one of the most beautiful little cemeteries I have ever seen. The graves were lovingly maintained, and many had tiny glowing lanterns on them. However, even here there was a dark side as well. As I was wandering the graves, I discovered a large number of memorials for nazi soldiers who had been killed in the war. Each one was proudly photographed in their German army uniforms.

      I am now back in the hotel, sorting my luggage for tomorrow's journeys. In the morning, I first catch a train back to Vienna, then travel direct to Vienna airport to catch a late-night flight to Copenhagen. On Sunday I climb on another flight to fly to Singapore, before finally catching the final flight to Melbourne.
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    • Salzburg Sightseeing

      3 de octubre de 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Following the cancellation of the main reason I came to Salzburg, I was left with a free day, with no definite plans. Although I could have spent the time frantically rushing all over the city, trying to visit as many churches and museums as possible, I opted for a much more low key affair.

      The only definite place that I wanted to reach was the castle. Its official name is the Fortress Hohensalzburg, and it is visible from just about every part of the city. After taking a metro bus ride and a short funicular railway journey, I found myself looking down on the city of Salzburg.

      The city itself is surrounded by rugged mountains, some of which have splashes of snow on their upper slopes. This place would really be spectacular in winter, when the whole city is blanketed in white. Unfortunately, there was neither sunshine nor snow today, just a low covering of thick grey clouds. Although rain threatened for much of the day, it did not eventuate, but the low clouds were sufficient to completely block the view of the nearby mountains.

      On the way back from the fortress, I somehow managed to catch a bus going in completely the wrong direction. I soon realised my mistake, but had to ride to the other end of the route before the bus finally reversed and took me back to my hotel.

      I have to admit that after a long and demanding trip, I am starting to feel weary, and I am looking forward to finally be heading home again.
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    • The Slow Train to Salzburg

      2 de octubre de 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      When I was finalising my own plans for this trip, I was looking for something special to do after completing the ride. Although I had been in Austria several times before, I had never visited its famous city of Salzburg, said to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Salzburg is probably best known for being the place that the Sound of Music was mostly filmed in. Surely that alone would justify giving the place a visit. It was also the birthplace of Mozart.

      There was a second reason for visiting Salzburg. In the old war time documentary films I had seen the spectacular location high in the Alps known as the Eagles Nest. This incredible spot is a short distance from the nearby town of Berchtesgaden, and was often visited by Hitler and his cronies.

      Unfortunately, all our plans changed a few days ago. We were informed that the train from Vienna to Salzburg was cancelled because of severe flood damage to the line. After some frantic research I discovered that it was still possible to get to Salzburg by travelling on an alternative (and much slower) train.

      A bigger problem arose the following day when I discovered that the road from Berchtesgaden to the Eagles Nest is currently blocked by a landslide. There will be no way to get around that problem. Life is like that sometimes.

      This morning Ken, Pauline and myself caught a taxi to the Vienna HBF and then climbed aboard our substitute train to Salzburg. Apart from an initial jam of completing suitcases as we found our allocated seats, the rest of the journey was quite civilised. Although the train was not a high speed one, it was smooth and almost silent, so I soon found myself fast asleep.

      Three hours later we were at Salzburg. It did not take long to found my hotel, as it was only 200 metres from the station. When I entered my room on the sixth floor, I was delighted to discover that I have a view across to the nearby snowcapped mountains.

      Tomorrow, I will take myself on a walk of the city.
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    • Twenty Four Hours in Vienna

      1 de octubre de 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Although we arrived at our hotel in Vienna around 12 noon, the hotel insisted that we would not be allowed to enter our rooms before 3pm. That is unless of course, you paid them a 30 Euro early entry charge. This was rather disappointing, but the miserly approach seemed to be a recurring thread. I had never heard of a hotel that wanted to charge 8 Euro for a cup of hot water either.

      A few of us sat in the foyer and waited until the clock ticked to 3 pm, and then made a beeline for our rooms. It was great to finally be able to dispense with the cycling gear once and for all.

      Once decked out in normal clothes I wandered off to the nearby Prater Park. This amusement park is one of the most famous in the world and dates back well over a 100 years. Perhaps the most famous ride of all is the huge ferris wheel, featured in the movie The Third Man. A feature of this wheel is that it is constructed exactly like a huge bike wheel. The outer circle is secured only by an intricate collection of steel cables. I am not sure if there are any others like this anywhere in the world.

      I wandered through the Prater Park to the so called Prater Turm. This is a towering structure, almost 120 metres high. If you want to be scared out of your wits you can sit in one of the seats and be elevated to the highest point in the park. To add to the fear factor, the seats are then spun around at the same time, in an apparent attempt to hurl you into oblivion.

      As I looked at the Prater Turm, my mind went back 8 years to when I last stood at this spot. On that occasion I was accompanied by a great friend Janna Thompson. Janna had been a regular participant in our overseas rides and was always up for a challenge.

      "You should have a go on that", I suggested to her.
      "I will if you will", she replied.

      That put me in a spot. I would lose face if I chickened out. Thus we agreed to come back in the morning and would both dice with death on this thing. We did come back in the morning, only to find the ride closed. We never did get to give it a go.

      Unfortunately Janna passed away tragically a couple of years ago, and I lost one of my closest friends. The thought of those events of 8 years ago saddened me considerably. Sometimes we just have to take opportunities when they arise, and not put them off.

      In the evening, the group had booked tables in the hotel restaurant for a "second final meal" together. Quite a few shared their favourite memories from the past month, knowing that within the next 24 hours, the group will be dispersed widely.

      This morning I caught t the very efficient underground train to the centre of the city and spent some time wandering the region near St Stephen's Cathedral, the Sisi Museum and the Spanish Riding School. Vienna really is lovable city, and it is little wonder that it now carries the accolade of being the world's most livable city. The combination of history, culture, modern infrastructure, bike paths and museums is very hard to beat. It could certainly act as a role model for other cities of this size. The underground Metro must certainly be one of the most efficient and easiest to navigate in the world. And once again, due to the absence of the pajama boats, the centre of the city had far fewer tourists than normal.

      As I walked and walked, and gazed at the buildings and parks, I wondered whether I will ever have the privilege of returning to this place. Whether I have the opportunity to return or not, I certainly feel blessed to have accumulated so many vivid memories of my times here.

      Tomorrow I pack my bags once again and catch the train from Vienna to Salzburg. That is a city I have not had the chance to visit before, so that will be a brand new experience.
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    • We Made It !

      30 de septiembre de 2024, Austria ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      It is common at this stage of any extended ride for participants to have mixed feelings. While there is no doubt the feeling of achievement and relief that comes from completing such a task, there is also a feeling that we don't want it to come to an end.

      For the past month, twenty people from vastly different backgrounds have shared a common goal - to reach Vienna. While it is true to say that we had more challenges thrown at us than we might have expected, in many ways those challenges only served to bring out the best in everyone. I suspect that in a strange way, it will be those difficulties that everyone will recall most vividly when we all return to our regular lives back in Australia.

      Last night we shared our final meal "on the road", in the Restaurant Suddeck in Tulln. This place was situated right on the waterfront, and provided a wonderful backdrop for our last dinner. Normally the riverfront at Tulln would have been crowded with visiting pajama boats, but due to the floods, the pajama boat cruises have obviously been cancelled. That is unfortunate for those who were booked into them, but it actually turned out to be a bonus for us.

      While we were sharing our meal, Steve Elliott read an incredible poem he had penned, humorously and accurately describing our team members.

      Here is his poem in full:

      "Epic Elbe

      We met at the Hamburg Marriott,
      In August, the last day.
      And after Sue had met the crew,
      She broke her leg to get away.

      We have two Paul's, and one is tall,
      The other leads the route.
      He was getting pretty good at it,
      Until a bollard took him out.
      He always finds the coffee shops,
      The bakeries and parking spots.
      But needs Velcro shoes, when he has booze,
      Cos he has a little trouble with knots.

      Now Steve and Jo, (the little ones),
      They're an asset to every team.
      With Steve at the front, and Jo at the back,
      Their ducklings all safe in between.

      Dessau we had a free day, that's not enough for Mei.
      "I'm off to see the Berlin wall, for I was born to roam".
      And knowing Mei she's found a way,
      To bring a piece back home.

      And then there's tiny Heather,
      (She's really rather small).
      Twice I saw her blown away,
      Once by headwind, once by Paul.
      She's always up for a joke or a tease,
      Or a glass of afternoon wine.
      Or a wine with lunch, or a wine when we dine,
      Or a wine just about any time.

      Neill and Karen, they're a pair,
      For they'll each take a turn,
      Of who is going to stay upright,
      And who will crash and burn.

      Put Iain and Lisa side by side,
      There's some difference in their height.
      Yes Iain could be a lighthouse,
      And Lisa be his light.

      Now Jill and Don don't seem to tire,
      They just keep rolling on.
      But Jill is spinning like a fan,
      I think she's stuck in one.

      Pauline had her own motto,
      It kept her near the lead.
      Less riders I can crash into,
      If there's only one to heed.

      And Ken would herd us from the back,
      So none were left behind.
      Except of course himself at times,
      If a tractor he could find.

      Joanna's always trying to help,
      To fix and make us whole.
      "Just one more glass of Bailey's,
      Then on to my next goal".

      Paul and Cat, know where it's at,
      They've travelled all around.
      Each took a turn at being ill.
      From some virus that they'd found.
      They didn't pass it on at all,
      They're not that kind of pair.
      So the rest of us are thankful,
      Some things they didn't share.

      Pam snuck in at Dessau,
      And then she snuck back out.
      She came to do much riding,
      But joined the cycling drought.

      Now John he loves his concerts,
      Be it opera, mass or band.
      He got a lot of takers,
      For the opera night he planned.

      Big Don, he just kept rolling on,
      Or that is how he'd seem.
      We lost him once, or thought we had,
      But he'd just switched his team.
      Then came the crash, he didn't flinch,
      He's tough is our old Don.
      For after he'd been bandaged up,
      He just kept riding on.

      What can we say of Dennis,
      He's always in control.
      Unless he sees a schnitzel,
      For that he'd sell his soul.
      He's always looking after us,
      Making sure things turn out right.
      He's on the phone, and emails too,
      But DON'T Whatsapp him at night.

      And as for me, I thank you all,
      You made this trip the best.
      But we've travelled for a month now,
      So I think I'll take a rest."

      It was a veritable masterpiece of penmanship, and a lovely way to remember what we shared together.

      This morning, of course we had to ride the final leg of the ride to Vienna. A couple of days ago we had been warned that this section was impassable, and that we would have to take a bus transfer instead. That would have been a disappointing way to end the ride, but good fortune smiled on us once again.

      Yesterday we had the good news that the first group of riders had managed to complete the damaged section of bike path. We were told that "if we were game, we could also give it a go." But we had to remember that the path was still officially closed.

      And of course we gave it a go, We are Ghostriders after all. Did we get through ? Of course we did. Although it was clearly evident just how damaged the trail had been, the recent couple of dry days had allowed the silt to dry out enough for safe cycling. In some sections the mud over the trail would have been at least 30 cm deep, before it was cleared.

      Since it was our last day of riding, the decision was made for all our 20 riders to ride in a single group. That was the way we had started out from Hamburg a month ago, so it was fitting that we finished in the same way.

      About 10 km from the finish line, we crossed onto the long island that extends up the centre of the Danube. The tall buildings of Vienna grew on the skyline. It finally became obvious that we really were going to reach our goal.

      After a final group photo shot on the island, we crossed the bridge and entered the city. The final couple of km to the hotel were actually very simple, as the bike path virtually took us to the hotel's front door.

      All that remained was to climb off the bikes for the very last time, and congratulate each other for their achievement. The bikes were stored away in the underground garage, panniers were emptied and we saw our bikes for the final time.

      It really has been a blast. What a ride !
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