Reset search
The World on Two Wheels
The World on Two Wheels

The World on Two Wheels

After discovering the joys of cycling in 2002 I took a group of fellow riders to China in 2006. Since then we have gone on to complete 54 other overseas cycling and trekking adventures which have taken us all over the planet. Read more🇦🇺Melbourne
FollowMessageStatistics
  • The World on Two WheelsSurf Coast Cycling AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Day 6 - Timboon to Cobden Rail Trail

    April 28, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Day 6 - Timboon to Cobden Rail Trail
    Our original intention was to ride from Timboon to Cobden, but good intentions don't always result in the desired outcomes. Yesterday we discovered that the trail between Timboon and Cobden is impassable because the trestle bridge has not been built yet. The only way to get past this obstruction is via a 15 km detour along very busy public roads - not a sensible or safe alternative.
    After studying the maps, we decided that we could start at Glenfyne instead and then follow the remaining 11 km of the trail to Cobden. That would make it a very simple and easy ride (or so we thought).
    We arrived at Glenfyne without incident. Actually Gordon and Sue missed Glenfyne entirely and ended up driving all the way to Cobden by mistake. We all had to wait while they drove back to the designated start point. In their defence, we had to admit that Glenfyne is pretty much a complete non-entity. Apart from the quaint little public hall, there is absolutely nothing there.
    So then we started on the trail. We did not have to ride far, before we realized that it was not going to be as easy as we thought. The trail was sadly neglected, so much so that I suspected that we were the first riders to ride this way since the introduction of decimal currency back in 1966.
    Not only was the track overgrown with large weeds (scotch thistles), we also had to contend with long grass, fallen trees, mud and loose stones. We hadn't ridden far before Greg took the easy way out by falling off his bike into the large ditch at the side of the path. Fortunately his fall was softened by the large thistle bushes that welcomed his fall.
    The ride to Cobden might have only been 11 km, but it felt like much more. By the time we arrived, our bodies and our bikes were looking the worse for wear. It didn't take long for us to discover why the trail was in such poor repair. The town itself was little better. Most of the businesses were shut down, and those few that were open looked like they wouldn't be around for much longer.
    We then searched for a bakery for lunch, eventually finding a possible place hidden away in a little arcade. We noticed the place was for sale (like everything else in town). Walking to the counter, I discovered that there was only one pie and one sausage roll left languishing in the pie warmer. David immediately bought the last pie, which cheered the proprietor no end, after all they had been trying to sell it for the past week. The rest of us walked out and looked for another bakery.
    Fortunately we discovered a much nicer place at the other end of town. It was fully stocked with pies and cakes, so we didn't starve after all.
    After lunch we faced the challenge of riding back along the same goat track we had ridden out on. With the benefit of our previous experience, we seemed to all manage a bit better. About an hour later we were safely back at the cars.
    In the evening we met up with 7 riders from Group 2, who had arrived from Warrnambool. We had a lovely outdoor dinner in the beautiful outdoor kitchen. There were lots of shared stories and an abundance of laughs, until we all got cold and retired to our rooms.
    Tomorrow we tackle the Old Beechy Rail Trail, our final ride for this trip. I hope the surface is better than today's track.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSurf Coast Cycling AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Port Campbell to Timboon

    April 27, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Day 5 - Port Campbell to Timboon Trail
    Today we had the chance to ride the Port Campbell to Timboon Trail. Although it had rained most of the previous night, the rain stopped before we got on the bikes and we were able to complete the ride in bright sunshine.
    It is tricky to reach the start of the trail in Port Campbell, because the final section alongside the Great Ocean Road has not been completed yet. Fortunately there is a small car park near the start that had just enough spaces for our convey of cars.
    There is a moderate climb for the first few km, and some sections of the trail were still under construction which added to the degree of difficulty. Timboon is a lovely little town and this trail will be well worth revisiting when the construction is completed.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSurf Coast Cycling AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Day 4 - Rest Day in Warrnambool

    April 26, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 4 - Free Day

    Today was our designated "free day" for this adventure. I have learnt the great importance of these free days from my experiences both overseas and in Australia. I am starting to think that future trips might just consist of mostly free days, with the occasional cycling day thrown in to keep us honest.

    Today we decided to lash out and have breakfast in one of the cafes in Warrnambool. It was a welcome break from juggling packets of cereal and long life milk in our motel room.

    The women then decided to spend some time doing shopping therapy. I took the opportunity to head down to the waterside to explore the impressive breakwater. Once again, the weather was superb, however the forecast is now threatening that the run of fine and warm days is about to come to a sudden end. Oh well, that is the way it goes.

    We all then headed back to Port Fairy to spend some more time exploring this absolutely beautiful little town. By the time we walked to the lighthouse, it was actually getting unpleasantly hot in the sun. Most of us also noted that our legs were still quite heavy after yesterday's ride.

    Tonight, we will be joined by the members of Group 2 as we share a meal together at the Warrnambool Bowls Club. It will be a good chance to share stories and advice.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSurf Coast Cycling AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Day 3 - The Heinz 57 Trail to Port Fairy

    April 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day Three- The Heinz 57 Trail to Port Fairy
    After our long day in the car yesterday, it was time to get back on the bikes for our ride from Warrnambool to Port Fairy and back again. No one in our group had ridden this trail before, so we had absolutely no idea of what to expect. One thing that we did not expect was warm/hot weather at this time of the year, but that is exactly what we did get.
    After unpacking our bikes and heading off in search of the beginning of the trail, we soon became very aware of a fearsome adversary - a howling head wind ! As if the head wind was not enough of a challenge, we also immediately discovered that the first few km were distinctly uphill. It was the evil combination of hills and head wind that soon had us all wondering why we had driven all the way to Warrnambool to suffer in this way.
    Michael and Christine had made the sensible decision to completely ignore the start of the trail, and drive to meet us at Koroit instead. This not only cut about 20 km from the ride length, but also completely bypassed the hills as well.
    When the rest of the peloton reached Koroit Station, there were several who were already considering stopping there and riding back to Warrnambool. The peloton split into a mens group and a womens group, but I was not sure how many (if any) of us would actually reach Port Fairy.
    Fortunately the trail turned southward and the headwind turned into a not so evil side wind. The going got easier, well sort of. Although we were not battling a direct head wind, the surface of the trail quickly deteriorated into a corrugated, rocky cattle track. For some reason it also appeared that every few hundred metres, the surface changed from one material to another. For brief patches it was smooth, then it would shake you violently, only to turn sandy. And so it went on.
    I lost count of the number of different surfaces we rode on, but I think it must have been at least 57. In spite of the challenges, we did reach Port Fairy without mishap, and were soon settled in front of one of the numerous bakeries. About 15 minutes all of the ladies also arrived.
    By this time it was quite warm in the sunshine, and cold drinks were the order of the day.
    After lunch, the men went on a cycle tour of the Port Fairy fishing wharf and saw the beautiful homes that line the waterfront.
    The return ride turned out to be significantly easier than the outward ride, due to a combination of favourable winds and a welcome succession of downhill sections.
    By the time I reached the waiting cars, my computer was telling me that we had ridden 63 km, although the combination of poor surfaces and challenging winds, made it feel more.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSurf Coast Cycling AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Day Two - A Walk in the Tree Tops

    April 24, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We all knew that it was going to be a long and tiring drive from Queenscliff to Warrnambool. What I didn’t know was that Maggie was going to choose the absolutely most challenging route possible – one that would send us to the very limit of our sanity.

    At least things started well. Apart from some thick early morning fog, which quickly dissipated as the sun rose, the day was as about as perfect as any autumn day could possibly be. Although we could have chosen the quick and easy (and direct) route to Warrnambool, Maggie insisted that we follow the Great Ocean Road instead. I had to admit that it was spectacularly beautiful, although the narrow, winding road did mean that I had to concentrate fiercely as I rounded every blind corner. The large number of cyclists also added considerably to the level of driving difficulty, since it was impossible to pass them without crossing over double lines to the wrong side of the road.

    Soon the elevated road started playing havoc with Maggie’s fear of heights. She started accompanying each bend in the road with an interesting, but alarming, sequence of gasps and hand clenches. It made it seem an awful lot longer than it probably was.

    Eventually we reached Lorne, where we decided it was time for a coffee stop. Maggie decided to ring Andrea to see how far they had driven. It turned out that they hadn’t driven anywhere – they were still at the motel, just waking up.
    Apparently they had lost all sense of time and were somewhat surprised that it had somehow “got late, early”. Although they had been looking forward to driving the Great Ocean Road, it was now far too late for that.

    Somewhere along the line, Maggie had read about the so called “Otway Fly”, a treetop walk through the rain forest. She decided that we should include it in our already busy day schedule. What she didn’t tell me was that, in order to get from Lorne to the Otway Fly, we would have to navigate one of the scariest roads I have ever driven.

    I don’t know how we (and our marriage) survived the ordeal of driving Turton’s Track, but I am certainly adding it to list of places we NEVER want to experience again. No wonder the sign said it was unsuitable for trucks, buses, trailers, caravans, cars over 3 m in length, and any drivers who wanted to stay alive. The “road” itself was only one car width wide and consisted of a never ending succession of blind corners. The peril was made even worse by the fact that the oncoming cars were all driven by red necked 4WD enthusiasts with a death wish.

    By some rare aberration on the laws of probability and statistics, we did avoid certain catastrophe and managed to eventually reach the Otway Fly. The experience was interesting but, by that time, Maggie and I were at wits end, and really did not enjoy it as much as we normally would have. I also discovered that my phone had gone completely flat, and I was unable to take any pictures to prove that we had even got there.

    After the treetop walk, we stopped for lunch at Lavers Hill, before completing the final 100 km to Warrnambool. Dinner consisted of takeaway Chinese eaten by Lake Pertobe. It was an enjoyable end to a long day, or it was until the mosquitoes sent us running to the safety of our cars.

    Tomorrow, we ride the trail from Warrnambool to Port Fairy and back again.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSurf Coast Cycling AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Day One and the Wheels Fall Off Already

    April 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    In less than four month’s time this same group of geriatric riders are scheduled to complete a complex series of rides in various places around Europe. Judging by the comedy of errors that plagued today’s (simple) ride, I now have serious reason to feel concerned.

    The plan was that we were all to catch the 10 am ferry from Sorrento to Queenscliff. In order to eliminate any possible confusion, we even insisted that everyone prebook their ferry tickets in advance. It was a foolproof plan, or so I thought.

    The instructions advised that we should arrive at the ferry terminal “no later than 40 minutes” prior to departure. To be on the safe side, Maggie and I set the alarm for 5 am, quickly got ready and were happy to be underway by 7 am. We had an uneventful drive and managed to arrive in Sorrento at about 8.30am. This gave us time to sit in the car and relax while we waited till the appointed boarding time.

    Soon afterwards we noticed that David and Carol were already in the queue for the ferry. The problem was that they had joined the wrong queue. They were on their way for the 9 am departure! Thinking that we could save time by following them through the ticket booth and then waiting for the correct ferry, I decided to join the same queue.

    The problem was that the grumpy lady behind the window had no patience for seniors, and left us in no doubt that we would have to leave and come back at the proper time. She actually got me so flustered that I temporarily forgot my own name and also how to drive. As I drove away from the window, I could hear her torrent of abuse and violent hand waving, following me out of the car park.

    We joined Gordon and Sue and Greg and Andrea Doherty, who were watching proceedings from the vantage point of the main carpark. A phone call to David and Carol informed them that they had completely ignored my directions and were now on the WRONG ferry. They didn’t seem concerned. With only 10 minutes to go till the 9 am departure, there was nothing that could be done. Or was there ?

    With the hour hand rapidly approaching 9 o’clock, we raced out of the carpark and back through the ticket window. Although I expected another lashing of abuse, we were quickly rushed through, and took our positions on the boat. It was a bit like one of those chase scenes where the criminal just manages to leap their car across the water, onto a departing ferry.

    Now that we were all on the wrong ferry, we had to let Michael and Christine know that we would not be meeting them at 11 am as arranged. I gave Michael a call to see how far they had come.

    “We are now all on the 9 am ferry, and will be reaching Queenscliff at 10 am” I explained.
    Michael sounded sleepy. “Oh, was that today ?” he asked.
    “Where are you?” (It was obvious that they were nowhere near Queenscliff).
    Michael explained that he had decided not to ride, and would meet us at Drysdale around 11 am. I suppose other things could have gone wrong, but at that time I could not think of any. The ride was falling apart before it had even started.

    At least the weather was playing its part. We enjoyed a smooth crossing and were soon parked in Queenscliff, unloading our bikes. At least eight riders had made it to the start.

    After a scenic roll around Queenscliff, we were enjoying a lovely ride along the Bellarine Rail Trail. It had been some years since I had last ridden this trail, and I had forgotten just how pleasant it is. The surface was excellent and the sunny day and lack of wind gave us perfect cycling conditions.

    Michael and Christine were waiting at Drysdale, although Michael was a non rider. At least Christine was able to join the peloton, increasing our number to nine. Another 8 km brought us to Leopold, where we had planned to have lunch.
    We had previously chosen the Rolling Pin Pie Bakery as a suitable location for lunch, however when I followed the GPS instructions, there was no pie shop to be seen. I looked back and forth, trying not show panic while the rest of the group looked on with quizzical expressions.

    Just as I was about to admit that I had stuffed up, I saw the sign across the road. Lunch was saved after all. Once we had filled our faces with pie and coffee, everything seemed much better.

    The return ride was achieved at a significantly faster pace that the outward ride, probably because I put the women at the front.

    “All the women are to ride at the front”, I explained. David immediately took this as an excuse to leave the rest of men and ride with the pink shirted females. Obviously he identifies as a 75 year old lady. Personally I don’t have a problem with that.

    Back at Queenscliff, we took some time to climb to the top of the impressive new lighthouse and look out over the harbour. It really had been a superb start to our riding adventure, even if almost nothing had gone according to the original plan.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSurf Coast Cycling AdventureThe World on Two Wheels

    Another Adventure Awaits

    April 22, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The packing is almost done. Well not quite almost. It might be more accurate to say that the packing has begun (sort of).

    Somehow Maggie and I have managed to spread cycling gear, clothing, food, toiletries, underwear and clothing from one end of the house to the other. For some reason this stage of utter chaos seems to precede every extended trip, so I guess this one should not be any exception.

    When we finally manage to cram all the assorted stuff into a couple of cases, and then jam those cases into the car, then we can tackle the task of loading the bikes onto the bike carrier. Our plan is to complete all the packing tonight so that we can get underway very early tomorrow morning.

    Although it might not seem like it at the moment, I am sure that everything will finally its correct place and we will be able to look forward to another amazing cycling experience.

    Our first ride will be the Bellarine Rail Trail, from Queenscliff to the outskirts of Geelong. While we could have just driven to Queenscliff, most of the group have decided to start with an overseas voyage on the Sorrento to Queenscliff Ferry.

    Once we arrive at Queenscliff, we will park the cars in Queenscliff and set off on the ride. The forecast is looking very promising at this stage, so we are confident that we will be able to complete at least one ride without getting soaked.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2023 Itzonagen European RideThe World on Two Wheels

    Getting Close Now

    April 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I have to admit that there have been times on our previous overseas rides when I wondered how many of our participants would actually make it all the way to the finish line. We have experienced everything from cuts and abrasions to broken legs and heart attacks during some of our rides, however this is the first time that I have had reason to doubt whether all our riders would even make it to the start of the ride.

    Perhaps it is due to the increasing age of the riders, or perhaps it is just pure bad luck. Whatever the reason, we do seem to have been beset by a serious of health issues in these final few months before departure. No sooner does one person recover from their malady, than another one steps in to take their place on the sick roll.

    After postponing this trip so many times because of Covid 19, it would be devastating if anyone had to withdraw at this late stage. Nothing would give me greater pleasure than to have the full complement of participants all happily and safely gathered at the start of our adventure in Maastricht.

    Now that we are under four months to go till we get underway, it really is finally starting to seem imminent. Next week we have our final extended cycling trip in Victoria, before all our attention turns to Europe.

    On Sunday we will be leaving to ride all the major bike trails in Western Victoria. This includes the Bellarine Trail, the Warrnambool to Port Fairy, the Port Campbell to Timboon, the Timboon to Cobden and the Old Beechy Trail from Colac to Gellibrand. The advance weather forecast is looking pretty good, so I am hoping for a rain free cycling week.

    For many of our riders, it will a good indicator of their ability to ride multiple days in succession. If they can cope with that, they should have no fears about the cycling in Europe. The daily distances that we will be riding in Western Victoria are very similar to the distances we will be doing each day in Europe. Let's hope that no one suffers a mishap!

    According to my calculations, we now have only 125 sleeps to go before we head to the airport.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2023 Itzonagen European RideThe World on Two Wheels

    Five Months and Counting

    March 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    It seems like it was only a month ago that I was saying that we only have six months to go before departure, but now the calendar is telling me that we have reached the even more exciting milestone of five months.

    When we consider that the planning for this adventure actually began five years ago, I guess we have reason to be impatient. The normal lead time from original concept to departure is typically two years. Five years is really a tad long, especially when our team members are growing older by the minute, let alone by the year.

    Of course the repeated delays we caused by the intervention of a Covid pandemic - not something that I considered even in my wildest dreams. The original trip was postponed multiple times, until I began to think that it was never going to happen.

    The initial plan was to have a two part trip. The first part would be a week long bike and barge along the Moselle from Saarburg to Koblenz, and this would be followed by a two week ride around the Ardennes Region of Central Europe.

    The multiple delays impacted, not only the trip that was originally planned for 2020, but also a subsequent European ride that had been planned for 2021. It was only after the pandemic began to finally subside that I started to consider the possibility of combining two years of rides into a single, multistage, extended trip.

    Over a period of months the options were examined from every angle. Maggie and I spent hours with calendars, maps and the all powerful Google search engine, to try to find a workable solution to the puzzle. Gradually a possible itinerary evolved, but it was quite different to the original plan.

    The new plans meant that we would do the Ardennes Ride first, then ride the Moselle in the upstream direction from Koblenz to Saarburg. The group would then split into two parts, with one group proceeding to ride the Danube from Passau to Vienna, while the other group went on to complete three more rides in Germany, Switzerland and France. Yes, it was complicated, and easily the biggest cycling adventure that UTRACKS would be overseeing in 2023.

    With a total of 29 participants, the sheer size of our group made for some serious logistical challenges. Many hotels were unwilling to take bookings for a large number of rooms, and at times, it really looked like we had hit yet another roadblock. Fortunately the problems were gradually resolved and our final plans were confirmed.

    Yesterday we had our first (and last) team meeting with the Melbourne based members of our group. It was exciting to finally see so many of our travelers all together in the same place, all happily chatting and sharing their experiences together.

    After a wonderful lunch, I was able to share some more detailed information about the upcoming trip. The next time we have the group together again will be when we are in Europe in August.

    Now it's only about 150 sleeps to go.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2023 Itzonagen European RideThe World on Two Wheels

    Six Months and Counting

    February 20, 2023 in Australia

    There is something especially significant about the six month countdown to departure. For this trip it is even more exciting, since it had been postponed multiple times due to Covid 19.

    But here we are. In just six months time our team will be forming in Amsterdam and the adventure will finally be beginning. By now all the major components of the trip are finalised, and it is only the minor parts remaining to be sorted out.

    Our biggest concern is now the health of our team members. At this point in time we have one rider recovering after recent surgery, another facing treatment and yet another suffering from a serious shingles infection. My main wish is that every one of the riders is in good health when we finally get underway. I certainly don't want any more medical situations in the next six months.

    The next main event for our team is a special lunch on Friday March 17th. This will be the first time all our Melbourne based participants will be able to be in the same place at the same time. It will be a good chance to share advice and travel stories from previous trips.

    In late April we have a week long cycling trip to the Surf Coast Region of Victoria. That will be a good dress rehearsal for Europe and a chance for our riders to assess their ability to ride on a string of consecutive days.

    And the number of sleeps ? I think it must now be about 179.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2023 Itzonagen European RideThe World on Two Wheels

    The Itzonagen Ride

    February 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Way back on March 2nd, 2019 I conducted an Information Meeting for those interested in joining me on a new European ride, timed for August and September 2020. Planning for that trip had actually started way back in early 2018, but it was now finally in a form ready to present to potential participants.

    The original plan was for a two-part ride. The first part would be a weeklong bike/barge along the Moselle River from Saarburg to Koblenz. This was to be followed by a two-week ride around the Ardenne Region of Central Europe.

    The plan was obviously well received, as within a couple of days we had enough confirmed starters to guarantee that the rides would go ahead. Of course, what we didn't know then was that the world was about to tumble into a global pandemic called Covid 19. By early the next year, the pandemic was sweeping across the globe with such speed that all international travel stopped almost overnight.

    This immediately impacted our planned trip for 2020. It was first postponed by 12 months, then 2 years as the pandemic continued to cause havoc. It was only in 2022 that international travel finally started to open up again and I was able to have another look at our long-delayed adventure.

    The problem I was faced with was that the delays had also impacted the plans for subsequent European rides. There had been something of a "concertina effect". When dealing with riders who are of advancing years, I did not want to tell them that they would have to wait even longer before we could get underway again.

    Thus began a complete rethink of the plans for 2023. I started to explore all sorts of permutations to see if it would be possible to combine two years of cycling adventures into a single "MEGA TRIP". It certainly was something akin to a giant puzzle, trying to fit dates, destinations, ride directions and distances into something that would be feasible.

    Eventually I ended up with no less than 6 rides that would be linked together to become a 2023 Cycling Spectacular. It was easily going to be the most complex series of rides I had undertaken since the epic 2016 European Odyssey Ride.

    The final plan was to arrive in Amsterdam, then travel to Maastricht to begin the two-week ride around the Ardenne Region. We would then proceed to Koblenz to start the weeklong bike/barge along the Moselle to Saarburg. The group would then split into two smaller groups with one group going on to complete a weeklong ride along the Danube from Passau to Vienna. At the same time the second group were to go to the start of the Danube at Donaueschingen and ride through to Ulm. They would then divert to complete a loop of Lake Constance, before going to France to ride the Canal du Nivernais. If it sounds complicated, it is because it really was.

    The new plans were announced midway through 2022 to see how they would be received. The response was overwhelming. Not only would all the rides go ahead as planned, but the size of the group actually grew to 29 riders !

    Now that we could all start having a new adventure to look forward to, I also needed a name for the overall trip. It has been customary to give each adventure a title. Since this one had been delayed for 3 years, I thought that an apt name would be the Itzonagen Ride. No, it is not a town in Switzerland, it is because "it's on again". Simple.

    Since confirming the details, our riders have been busy booking flights and additional accommodation. Now that we are almost within 6 months of departure, I believe that most of these details are now sorted.

    And how many sleeps to go ? I think that is is around 190 and counting. You are now invited to follow this adventure via this blog site. It really has been a long time since the first plans were made in 2018, but finally Itzonagen.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsGippsland and Bass CoastThe World on Two Wheels

    It's All Over

    November 30, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Was it really only a week ago when we had 20 riders in Fish Creek for our first dinner ? Now a week (and over 300 km) later our peloton has been reduced to just 7 very tired riders. I guess we are just not as strong as we thought we were. Or maybe it was the Covid lockdown that has sapped all our energy ?

    Whatever the reason, when we discussed how to spend the final day of our adventure, no one showed any hunger to do any more riding, especially when it would be followed by a 300 km drive back to Melbourne. We all felt that we had done very well by cycling as much as we had, we had nothing left to prove. We might have felt differently if a day or two had been lost due to rain, but we had experienced fine weather for the entire trip. It was a bit like taking the final bite of a large dinner and then deciding that you really did not need dessert.

    It was decided that it would be far more pleasant to enjoy a leisurely drive home, starting with breakfast in Bairnsdale. So that's what we did.

    After packing our bags for the final time (actually jamming everything in anywhere it would fit), we bade a fond farewell to Lakes Entrance. There is a lovely scenic lookout just out of towen which gives a spectacular view of the Gippsland Lakes and the actual entrance to the open ocean. We stopped there for a final photo opportunity before continuing to Bairnsdale for breakfast at Mr D's cafe. It was a perfect way to end the trip.

    By the time we emerged from breakfast the outside temperature had risen markedly. It would not have been much fun cycling in those conditions, so we all congratulated ourselves on the extreme wisdom we had demonstrated. We had a final goodbye and pointed our car towards Melbourne. Well actually in our case it was pointed towards Inverloch, because that is where we were headed.

    Our journey took us via the lovely little township of Mirboo North, where we discovered another rail trail that we have never ridden. If this is trip is repeated next year, we may modify it to remove the High Plains and East Gippsland Trails and include the Mirboo North Trail instead. It is worth thinking about.

    After dropping Maggie back at Inverloch I continued on to Melbourne, finally arriving home around 3 pm. Another very successful and enjoyable riding adventure had been completed. Thanks so much to all those who travelled with us and those who made the trip from Melbourne to take part for just a day.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsGippsland and Bass CoastThe World on Two Wheels

    The East Gippsland Rail Trail

    November 29, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    The East Gippsland Rail Trail stretches some 96 km from Bairnsdale to Orbost, making it one of the longest rail trails in Victoria. In the early years of the Ghostriders we used to travel to Bairnsdale every year to ride this trail, however it has now been at least ten years since we last made this journey. It was time to see if anything had changed.

    One thing that had already become evident was the shrinking size of our peloton. After completing the High Plains Rail Trail, we bade farewell to Jan and Margot. This left only 11 riders to complete the final part of our rail trail odyssey. As it turned out another two riders abandoned on the final morning, leaving only 9 participants still moving. This was less than half of the number we had started with in Fish Creek, just a week earlier. I guess that shows that the relentless pace was really taking its toll.

    Our plan had been to base the team in Lakes Entrance and then tackle the East Gippsland Trail in two sections. The first day we would ride from Bairnsdale to Bruthen and back, and the second day we would ride from Nowa Nowa to Bruthen and back. It seemed doable (but I was to be proved wrong).

    Certainly Lakes Entrance was a lovely spot to use as our base, although it was evident that the last few years had not been kind to the town's economy. The large number of empty shops, deserted motels and quiet streets all gave witness to the fact that times were tough here. One thing that time could not change was the undoubted natural beauty of the Gippsland Lakes Region.

    We began the day by driving back to Bairnsdale and to the start of the trail in Howitt Park. Half of our peloton had already decided to follow Plan B, by starting at Nicholson instead. This cut the ride down from around 70 km to about 55km.

    When we finally started rolling out of Bairnsdale, our peloton had plummeted to only 4 riders. Fortunately the first 9 km of the trail is sealed, meaning that we could make good progress. Even so, when we arrived at Nicholson, we discovered that the other half of the peloton had already headed off to Bruthen. It took us about 20 km to finally catch up with them.

    Once we left the sealed trail, the surface proved to be very variable. The toppings changed regularly from soft sand to loose rocks to fine gravel and mud. I think "variable" would be a good description. Although not as rough as the High Plains Trail, it certainly was in need of some long overdue maintenance. The signage along the final section to Bruthen also needs improvement as it was not clear which route actually took us into the town.

    Fortunately Bruthren had not changed. It is still one of the prettiest main streets in the state, and the wide grassy central area gave us a perfect location for a leisurely lunch.

    We then repeated our ride for the return leg and somehow managed to get back to our waiting cars without anyone falling off or getting lost. Once again the temperature had started to climb and we were all conscious of the fact that we were getting tired. No one seemed particularly excited about getting on the bikes for another long day in the saddle.

    We did get back to Lakes Entrance in time for a walk along the marina to explore the wide variety of boats that were moored there. Some looked like they would not be able to stay afloat much longer.

    That evening the remnants of our team shared a final meal together at the Central Hotel. The dinner did not get off to a great start when the grumpy maître d gave us all a serve of abuse and sat us at the worst table in the room. We could not figure out what we had done to bring on his outburst, but it was enough to ensure that none of us would ever visit that establishment again. It was a slightly disappointing and unexpected end to an amazing week of cycling and fun we had shared together.

    After dinner we had a slow walk back to the hotel along the waterfront. It was a perfectly still evening with only the first and brightest stars beginning to shine. A truly magical experience.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsGippsland and Bass CoastThe World on Two Wheels

    Riding the High Plains Trail

    November 28, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    After celebrating our triumph over the George Bass Coastal Walk, it was time to head to the Latrobe Valley and pit our cycling skills against the Gippsland High Plains Trail from Traralgon to Heyfield and back. Although some of our riders had ventured to this part of Victoria, for most of us it would be our first experience on this trail.

    According to my calculations, if we started in Traralgon and rode all the way to Heyfield and back, we would be pedaling around 80 km. Of course we had already ridden well over 200 km in the past few days, so none of us had any great desire to set new Strava records (actually I can never understand why any cyclist feels the need to record their every pedal stroke, but that is another story). Sometimes discretion is the better (and much smarter) part of valour, so we all went in search of a "Plan B".

    A study of the maps showed there was a much better starting point in the car park on Burnetts Rd. Since this was a couple of km outside of the city, it seemed like the intelligent place to start.

    So that is where we started - well almost. When our peloton of 14 riders was gathered in the car park, we started to discuss the condition of the trail and whether we really wanted to ride another 75 km. The decision was quickly made that there was a much better starting point at Glengarry (about 6 km further on). They really are a much smarter group than they look.

    We were also met at the start by Dave Mc Morran, who had made the 2 hour drive from Melbourne to join us for the day. When we told him that he could either start at Burnetts Rd or Glengarry, he also decided that Glengarry would be fine. According to our new calculations, that would leave us a ride of around 60 km - enough in anybody's language.

    After transferring to the lovely little town of Glengarry, we assembled near the old railway station and headed off towards Heyfield. Everything went well for the first few minutes. Although the surface was rough and stony, we were able to make reasonable progress. And then we met the first challenge.

    After riding over a small bridge we were presented with an extensive sea of water. The trail disappeared completely. We pulled to a halt to discuss what to do next. Although I tried to persuade David Yates to sacrifice himself to the water, nobody was willing to take the risk. After all, we had no idea of how deep the water was. We had no alternative than to U turn and head back in search of an access path to the highway.

    Fortunately we were able to find a suitable detour along the somewhat busy road and rejoined the trail a couple of km further on. Although it was not under water, the surface was still quite bad. This is such a pretty region that it is a real shame that the trail has not been properly maintained.

    The poor condition of the trail (trial ?) meant that we had to concentrate hard in order to avoid crashing. This also meant that we did not have a lot of time to enjoy the surroundings as much as we would have liked.

    It was a great relief when we reached Dawson's Connection and were able to leave the trail for a few glorious km along delightfully quiet country roads. This reminded me of the back roads of Europe that make cycling there so magical. Unfortunately the respite was temporary and we were soon back on the rough trail again.

    We eventually bounced and swerved our way to the outskirts of Heyfield, only to find that the final few km were the most rough and dangerous of the entire ride. When you combine steep inclines, boggy dips and loose stones, it really does add up to a significant degree of difficulty.

    When we finally rolled into Heyfield, we were a little dismayed to find that our eating options were pretty limited. We finally were saved from starvation when we found a small food caravan that was able to serve up a variety of sandwiches and drinks. They were doing a roaring trade, especially after our peloton arrived.

    We then started off on the return ride to Glengarry. For some unknown reason the trail did not seem quite as rough when heading this direction (strange but true) and we were able to maintain a higher speed. You might think we had a tail wind, but that was not the case.

    After arriving back at Glengarry we enjoyed some icecreams from the grocers and then climbed into the cars for the long drive to Lakes Entrance.

    Will we ride this trail again ? Probably yes, but not for a few years.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsGippsland and Bass CoastThe World on Two Wheels

    In the Footsteps of George Bass

    November 27, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After three days of cycling (and one day of eating Devonshire Teas), it was time to exercise a different set of muscles. The George Bass Coastal Walk is surely one of the most spectacular short walks in Victoria, however up till a few years ago, it was also one of the least known.

    The walk itself begins at Punchbowl and then stretches some 8 km along the clifftops of the Bass Coast. Along the way you can expect an ever changing vista of vast ocean views and white capped waves breaking on the rocky shoreline.

    Thirteen walkers gathered at the Anderson car park to organise some car shuffling. Although we were all looking forward to doing the walk, none of us was ready to do it twice. That meant we had to make sure there was a vehicle at Kilcunda to get the drivers back to Punchbowl. That should have been an easy task, but when most of your group is of extremely advanced years, it took an undue amount of explaining to get the message across. Eventually we managed to elect Peter to be the designated driver. You could imagine my surprise therefore when I noticed that Peter was still wandering around the car park about 10 minutes later. At that rate it was going to be a long day indeed.

    Eventually things were sorted out and our 13 walkers were safely deposited at Punchbowl. Because of the increased popularity of this walk, parking is progressively getting harder and harder. There is no designated parking area, meaning that you just have to squeeze your car in anywhere you can.

    Once you start the walk there is really no "Plan B". You have to keep going till you reach Kilcunda. We were relieved to discover that the weather looked like being kind to us, although there was a steady wind blowing all day from the east. This meant that we would be walking into a headwind. For me it also meant that I would be hanging on to my hat grimly all day. I had already scored a sunburnt nose from the cycling days and did not want to add to the redness.

    We were finally underway soon after 10 am and very soon we were all marveling at the incredible views spread out before us. We were also marveling at the incredible stupidity of the fishermen who were standing on the very edge of the ocean, in spite of all the warning signs explaining just how dangerous the waves are.

    After an hour of energetic walking, the trail descends down to the sand, We found a sheltered location and settled down to enjoy our lunches, accompanied by the hypnotic sounds of the rolling waves. We were also hoping that we would not hear the ominous cracking noises from the rocky overhang, just above our heads.

    The second half of the walk undulates regularly and it was evident that the efforts of the preceding days were starting to take their tolls. I think that everyone was happy when the little town of Kilcunda came into view and we knew that a hot coffee was not far away.

    After sorting out the cars again, we left Inverloch to drive to Traralgon. Tomorrow we will be back on the bikes again, when we ride the Gippsland Plains Rail Trail from Traralgon to Heyfield and back again.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsGippsland and Bass CoastThe World on Two Wheels

    A Very Windy Ride

    November 26, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Everyone who is familiar with the Bass Coast Region would know that the wind always blows from the west. Always. That might have been true up to now, but today we witnessed (and experienced) the rare phenomenon of a howling gale blowing from the east. It was not only blowing from the wrong direction, but it never abated for a minute all day.

    Of course this strange situation was very welcome for the first part of the ride as we were riding with the wind right behind our backs. We met at the very start of the trail on the outskirts of Wonthaggi and were soon hurtling effortlessly towards Kilcunda.

    Such was the benevolence and strength of the wind that even the uphills seemed like downhills. It was almost embarrassing to be flying along with such little effort. We arrived at Kilcunda in record time and had plenty of time to enjoy the first coffees of the day.

    The next section from Kilcunda to Anderson is normally a steady climb. Not today. The tailwind made sure that we were whisked to the summit before we even realised the ride had resumed.

    At this point we turned southwards to ride the undulating section to San Remo. To my utter amazement, the wind still assisted us all the way. In the long history of the Ghostriders I cannot recall a morning where the wind was so helpful to us. Of course the ride was only half done. In the backs of our minds we all knew that the return ride would NOT be pleasant. And it wasn't. But that came much later in the day. First we sat down by the waterside to enjoy our lunches and watch the sea.

    Finally we could delay our departure no longer and off we went. The wind immediately blew in our faces. We experienced every cyclist's worst enemy of a vicious combination of uphill and upwind. Those riders fortunate enough to ride ebikes were soon switching up the power to the highest settings, and then wishing they had a couple of even higher settings.

    We fought our way slowly up the hill, finally reaching the Anderson turnoff. The wind was still in our faces all the way back to Wonthaggi. It was quite a battle, but we all made it back without mishap. (Well there was a small mishap, but we are all hoping that the blue tongue lizard was not mortally wounded when Andrea rode straight over it on the trail).

    When I was safely back at Inverloch, a look in the mirror revealed a very red face looking back at me. Unfortunately it was mine. A combination of sun and windburn had left me looking like some strange Santa parody.

    Tomorrow we leave the bike alone and walk the George Bass Coast Walk instead.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsGippsland and Bass CoastThe World on Two Wheels

    Rest Day in Inverloch

    November 25, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After two hot days of cycling and over 140 km covered, it was evident that the ageing legs of our team had taken quite a beating. There is only one known cure for this malady - a break from cycling. So that's exactly what we did. Nothing.

    It was delightful to have a slow start to the day and then catch up on a little bike maintenance (ie squirt the bike with a hose, give it a shake and hope for the best). This approach appeared to work a treat with the bike and their riders.

    The only commitment that some of us had made was to meet for a Devonshire Tea at the Bassine Cheese Factory in Bass. Where else would the "Bassine" Cheese Factory be located ?

    At the civilised hour of 11 am a group of us were gathered in the verandah outside the factory. We would all have preferred to be enjoying the warmth inside the premises, but one of our group (let's call her "Maggie") insisted on bringing along her little yapping poodle. That meant we were all banished to sitting outside in the biting wind.

    Fortunately the coffee, scones and clotted cream almost made the frostbite worthwhile. In fact we stayed on so long that some of the group decided to imbibe for a second time.

    Much later in the day we all gathered for dinner at the Esplanade Hotel in Inverloch. The dinners were going quite well until one of our diners (name withheld) decided that chewing was a waste of energy and decided to send a vast quantity of something called "ancient grains" straight down the tube leading to his left lung, instead of to his stomach where it was intended.

    After an extended period of choking, eye rolling, gagging and gurgling, we decided that the situation was serious enough for him to go to the nearby hospital (presumably to have his stomach pumped and the errant food rechewed). It was a slightly alarming end to the meal, but the person in question was discharged a couple of hours later (with most of his bodily functions working again).

    Tomorrow we get back on the bikes again for a ride along the Bass Coast Rail Trail from Wonthaggi to San Remo. What else could possibly go wrong ?    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsGippsland and Bass CoastThe World on Two Wheels

    Storms and Tempests

    November 24, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    No cyclist actually enjoys riding in pouring rain. Although it is possible to happily endure a few light passing showers, when the rain really sets in there is not a rain jacket on earth that prevents the water from progressively finding its way into every part of your anatomy. It soon runs down your legs and pools inside your shoes, adding a squelchy accompaniment to every turn of the pedals. It's just not fun.

    You can therefore imagine our trepidation when the Weather Bureau forecast just these conditions for the whole of Wednesday. Yep, not just rain, but pouring, continuous rain for the whole day. They even topped up their predictions but adding layers of flood warnings and promising damaging thunderstorms and large hail. It is little wonder that I told our riders that it is likely that we would have to resort to Plan B.

    We were therefore surprised and relieved when we awoke to only a few scattered clouds. There was no sign of thunderstorms, no rain and no wind. In fact it was as close to perfect as we could have hoped for.

    Maggie and I drove from Inverloch to meet the group at Fish Creek. They all seemed just as relieved as I was about the weather. I felt so confident about the rest of the day that I didn't even bring my rain jacket.

    I spent a couple of minutes augmenting my Lennie Gwyther story before we were underway. Even though I had carefully explained that today we would let the ladies take the lead, one again David and Henk ignored all the rules and quickly bolted out of sight. We had always suspected that David had strong feminine leanings, and this was even more evidence.

    In the early morning the air was still cool and clean, although we could feel the early heat of the sun when we left the shade. About 6 km from Fish Creek is an elevated viewing spot at the top of the Hoddle Range. This rewards the cyclist with one of the best panoramic views in Gippsland. The view extends southwards to the ocean and Wilson's Promontory. The big problem is that it is not signposted, and I suspect that hundreds of cyclists ride straight past without even knowing the spot exists.

    We were soon rolling down the eastern side of the range and heading past Foster towards Toora. By this time the conditions were becoming warm and humid and we decided that a mid morning drinks stop was in order. We arrived to find that the main street of Toora had been destroyed by some major earthworks. Since the street probably has only about 20 vehicles a day, none of us could understand why such an expensive undertaking would have been necessary.

    It was so comfortable at the Latte Dah Cafe that several people decided that they had already ridden far enough and decided to make that their lunch spot. The reduced peloton continued on towards Port Welshpool. The path is dead straight in this section, although it is slightly undulating. Unfortunately there was little shade and the high humidity started to take its toll.

    By the time I reached Welshpool, my GPS indicated that I had already ridden 35 km and I decided that, since I had nothing to prove, it was time to Uturn and head back to Toora for lunch. Allan also rode back with me to the Toora cafe.

    Over the next 30 minutes or so we were progressively joined by a succession of hot and tired Ghostriders, who were all most appreciative of the air conditioning. There was still no sign of rain, although a couple of darker clouds were dancing around the horizon.

    After a lengthy lunch and a lovely chat, it was time to get back on the bikes for the final leg of the ride back to Fish Creek. I think everyone was grateful for the fact that the final few km back to the car park is all downhill - a perfect way to end a long ride.

    And as for the predicted rain ? Not a drop !

    Tomorrow we have a "rest day" to explore the surrounding region. After riding over a 140 km on the first two days, I don't think that anyone will be sorry to give their backsides a break for a little while.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsGippsland and Bass CoastThe World on Two Wheels

    Remembering Lennie Gwyther

    November 23, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    1932 was a tough year. The Great Depression had been ravaging the world's economies for the past two years. In Australia 1 out of 3 men was unemployed. Across the countryside groups of unemployed men wandered from town to town in search of work.

    Closer to home the Gwythear family of Leongatha had their own personal disaster. They owned a small farm of around 30 acres which was thrown into despair when the father broke his leg in an accident. It was at this time that nine year old Lennie Gwythear took on the task of plowing the fields and preparing the paddocks for the upcoming harvest.

    His father was so appreciative of this amazing effort that he asked young Lennie what he would like as a reward. Young Lennie was obviously a curious kind of lad and had been reading all about the building of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, which was now nearing completion. He told his family that he wanted to go to the opening.

    Instead of hitting the roof, Lennie was helped to pack his tiny haversack, saddle his pony "Ginger Mick" and then sent on his way with the family's blessings. Of course a journey of over 600 miles would be a significant feat for anybody, for a 9 year old undertaking a solo trip without any form of communications was breathtaking.

    As Lennie began his 6 week journey, the famous bush telegraph started to go to work. Towns were notified of his arrival and offers of accommodation and food made sure that he was looked after.

    By the time he reached Canberra, his story had captivated the nation, so much so that he was invited to meet the Prime Minister Joseph Lyons at The Lodge. He continued on his way, eventually reaching Sydney to find the streets lined with thousands of welcoming people, all waving and cheering for this tiny lad on his pony.

    His fame had grown so much that he was invited to take part in the official opening of the bridge. A few days later he was feted at the Royal Easter Show and even got to meet his hero Don Bradman, who presented him with a signed bat.

    Of course getting to Sydney was only half the task. He still had to get home. He climbed back on Ginger Mick and made the long journey back to Leongatha. On the way home he turned 10 !

    He arrived back in Leongatha to be welcomed by a cheering crowd of 800 people, including all the most important people of the district.

    Lennie went on to serve in the Army in WW2. He later settled in Hampton and got a job with General Motors Holden. He died of cancer in 1992 at the age of 70.

    For a long time this incredible story was forgotten, but in recent times his achievement has been celebrated by the erection of a bronze statue of Lennie and Ginger Mick in Centennial Park in Leongatha. No trip to Leongatha would be complete without a visit to this famous landmark.

    When we began the first day of our riding adventure at Fish Creek I explained to the group that the main aim of the day's ride would be to ride to Leongatha and visit the statue of Lennie. So that is exactly what we did.

    The conditions were hot and dusty, so the 75 km ride was a somewhat challenging start to our cycling. After riding through to Leongatha, we stopped at Koonwarra on the way back for lunch.

    By the time we finally made it back to Fish Creek, most riders said that their legs and nether regions could not have taken much more. Tomorrow our plan is to ride in the easterly direction to Port Welshpool and back again. The only potential spanner in our works is the absolutely terrible weather forecast, which threatens heavy rain, storms and flash flooding in the region. Will that stop us ? Most probably yes.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsGippsland and Bass CoastThe World on Two Wheels

    Dinner in Fish Creek

    November 22, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After being confined to Melbourne for much of the past two years, it felt wonderful to finally be able to return to the regions again. Over the next eight days over 20 Ghostriders will be riding the very best rail trails that Victoria has to offer. These include the Great Southern Rail Trail from Leongatha to Port Welshpool, the Bass Coast Rail Trail from Wonthaggi to San Remo, the Gippsland Plains Rail Trail from Traralgon to Heyfield and the East Gippsland Rail Trail from Bairnsdale to Nowa Nowa. We also plan to walk the George Bass Coastal walk from Punchbowl to Kilcunda.

    Tonight we began our adventure with a group meal at the Fish Creek Hotel. Nineteen people shared a meal and a lot of talking. Allan Barlin had travelled further than the rest, having joined us all the way from Wauchope in NSW.

    Tomorrow the riding begins....    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSnowy Mts and High CountryThe World on Two Wheels
    2

    Exploring Albury/Wodonga

    May 3, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The last time Maggie and I had been in Albury was more than 47 years ago. We had been married for about 2 days and were on our way to Canberra to spend our honeymoon.

    Of course the world of travel was a bit different way back then. The only resource we had to plan our accommodation was the RACV Accommodation Guide. There was no Internet, no mobile phones, no email, no GPS to help guide our way. We really were on our own.

    After looking at maps and studying the brief descriptions of each motel that the guide book offered, I chose a place in Albury for our overnight stay and received a printed voucher to present on our arrival.

    We left Melbourne with our little Renault 10 loaded to the rooftop with about everything we owned at that time. Although I had promised Maggie that we would have a lovely place to stay after the long drive, we soon discovered that the place did not live up to the description. The room was tiny, the bed situated right under the front window, only partly protected by an inadequate flimsy curtain. Every time sometime walked past the room (which was often), we felt like we were meant to say hello to them. It was an uncomfortable night.

    When our plans were made to spend a couple of nights in Wodonga as part of this trip, we were obviously curious to see if anything had changed in almost half a century. We soon found that the city was nothing like how we remembered it. Albury/Wodonga is now a thriving metropolis with very well-developed infrastructure. The shopping centres were modern, the coffee shops welcoming and the traffic appeared to flow smoothly. In addition we found a wonderful rage of beautiful parklands and bike paths to explore. Our main regret was that we did not have enough time there to do the place justice. If we repeat this trip next year, all agreed that we should include a day of cycling around the city.

    And as for our motel of 1974 ? To our surprise we found that it is still there. In fact it had not even changed all that much, apart from a sparkling new paint job. Apparently, such "retro motels" are now all the rage. It even has a huge hotel and restaurant added to the complex. But will we ever stay there again ? I really doubt it.

    On the other hand, we all left with very positive feelings for the city and a desire to return well before another 47 years had elapsed.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSnowy Mts and High CountryThe World on Two Wheels

    High Country Rail Trail

    May 2, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Maybe it was because it's a long way away, or maybe it was fear of the unknown. Even though the High Country Rail Trail has been open for many years, the Ghostriders had never explored it prior to 2021.

    When we first started thinking of riding the Tumburumba Trail, I started looking at combining it with several other trails to make a week of cycling and exploring. If we were going to come such a long way from Melbourne, we might at least make maximum use of our time. Over a few days, the plans evolved to include the Tumbarumba, High Country and Murray to the Mountains Trails.

    The High Country Trail starts in the centre of Wodonga and stretches about 40 km through Ebden and Bonegila to Tallangatta. Much of the trail runs along the side of the massive Hume Weir, but in case you might be thinking that it must therefore be a flat trail, you have another think coming. Although there are no extended climbs, there are many smaller undulations along the route.

    Once again we started the ride in brilliant sunshine. The thermals and leggings were definitely not required, but the sunscreen was. The start of the trail is quite close to the Motel 24, where many of our riders were staying.

    The first few kilometres are high quality smooth bitumen, but the surface does not last too long. Once you reach the site of the old Bonegila Migrant Hostel, the surface deteriorates to fairly rough gravel. In some places it is actually quite loose and potentially dangerous, but the less than perfect surface is compensated for by the magnificent scenery across the Weir.

    Because the lake was artificially made, there are still hundreds of drowned trees poking through the water surface. These certainly add a certain moodiness to the scenery.

    All our riders made it safely to Tallangatta, where we settled down to a lengthy lunch at the Bakery. Then it was time to remount the bikes for the long ride back to Wodonga.

    Although the surface of the trail is not as good as the Tumbarumba Trail, we all agreed that it really was an enjoyable ride. Maybe this will become a regular part of the annual calendar ?

    Tomorrow we have a free day to explore Wodonga.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSnowy Mts and High CountryThe World on Two Wheels

    Riding the Tumbarumba

    May 1, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I am not sure when I first heard the name "Tumbarumba", but I suspect it might have been many years ago when I listened to the haunting sounds of Smokey Dawson singing "Ghosts of Old Khancoban". The evocative words certainly stuck in my mind, and painted mental images of rough bush country. The sort of place where men were men (and probably smoked a pack of Marlboros a day) and women worked all day in the kitchen, preparing meals and darning socks.

    One line in the song goes something like "we rode a 100 miles for a lady's smiles at the dance at Tumbarumba". It is certainly a name that rolls off the tongue, the problem is that it rolls off the tongue differently every time someone tries to pronounce it. Ever since I first announced that I planned to ride the Tumbarumba Trail, its name has been distorted into a multitude of strange permutations and combinations - so much so that I have now found myself calling it anything from Tummamurra to Tipperary.

    Whatever the place is called, it certainly is a spectacular location, made all the more beautiful by the palette of autumn colours that have painted the hillsides so vividly. Of course, every place also looks better when the sun is shining and the sky is blue. That is exactly the sight that welcomed us when we gathered at the start of the rail trail this morning.

    After the obligatory group photo shot, we were soon on our way to Rosewood. I explained that we needed to split into smaller groups to avoid the chaos that would undoubtedly ensue if 25 riders all descended on the Gone Barney cafe at the same time. The large group progressively separated out into a succession of smaller pelotons (minitons ?) and one rider quickly disappeared into the distance, riding in his own uniton. (Yes it was David).

    This gave us a chance to see just how good this brand new trail is. The smooth sealed surface, regular distance markers, clear signage and incredible scenery certainly combine to provide a wonderful riding experience. It is little wonder that hundreds of riders travel large distances to ride this trail every day. We could certainly see the boon it has already provided to local businesses. That should serve as a clear example that such trails do not constitute a threat to the local population. To the contrary, they can be just the sort of stimulus that struggling country towns need to thrive again.

    One unique feature of the trail was a succession of cattle bridges, constructed over the trail. These allow the cattle to safely cross over from one side of the trail to the other. It was something of a strange sight, seeing a large bovine calmy walking overhead, while I rode underneath.

    Although the trail is not very long (around 23 km) it is certainly a joy to ride. At the current time it terminates at the small town of Rosewood, where we were welcomed by the thriving Gone Barney Cafe and a nearby host of gnomes (I am not kidding).

    After a cheap and delicious lunch, we climbed back on the bikes and headed back to Tumbarumba. Although it is a rail trail and has no serious climbs, the final few km back to Tumbarumba is a steady ascent (great when riding an e-bike).

    At the end of the ride, I asked several of our riders what score they would give the trail. They agreed that 10/10 would not be an exaggeration. It had been a marvelous day, and one that we will remember for a long time.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSnowy Mts and High CountryThe World on Two Wheels

    Free Day in Tumbarumba

    April 30, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Question - What do you do in Tumbarumba when the sun is shining on a perfect autumn day ?
    Answer - Anything you feel like.

    I don't think that anyone in our group has ever travelled to Tumbarumba before, but there is no doubt that we have all been captivated by its charm and beauty. Of course it is possible that it might not have looked so idyllic if the rain had been falling and the biting winds had been sweeping in from the alps. But today it could not have been more perfect.

    After breakfast in our rooms, a few of us decided to walk into the town in search of a real cup of coffee. We soon spied a sunny courtyard which liked like the ideal place for a cappucino and a chat. No sooner had we sat down than we were joined by a very sociable black cat. It stayed with us for the next 60 minutes, enjoying the autumn sunshine just as much as we were.

    We had heard about a nearby waterfall with the exotic name "Paddy's Falls". How could we resist that ? It was only 16 km outside of Tumbarumba and the drive was cerrtainly worth it.

    Although the falls were not exactly spectacular, we had to agree that they were really quite charming and the walk down to the base of the cascade was not overly taxing. That was also a great bonus.

    After admiring the falls, it was back to town for a late lunch at The Nest Cinema Cafe. Another couple of hours slipped delightfully through our fingers. Such moments really are like a precious medicine and we could all feel our souls being rejuvenated as we sat, laughed, chatted and ate.

    Tomorrow's forecast is for another superb day. That is just as well as that is when we will all be climbing onto the bikes to ride the rail trail we had come all the way from Melbourne to experience.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsSnowy Mts and High CountryThe World on Two Wheels

    An Indian Summer in Tumbarumba

    April 30, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    For most of last year Melbournians endure a crippling series of Covid 19 lockdowns, curfews, travel restrictions and toilet paper shortages. It was terrible. During the worst of the lockdown we were not even able to share rides with our Ghostrider friends. All overseas travel was banned and we couldn't even travel more than 5 km from our own homes.

    As our freedoms were gradually restored, I looked for alternative avenues to experience cycling adventures. A couple of months ago I heard about the brand new Tumbarumba to Rosewood Rail Trail that had only just opened. It seemed like a suitable place for the Ghostriders to explore. Although Victoria is spoilt with a surfeit of cycling choices, it is surprising to discover that the Tumbarumba Trail is exactly the first such rail trail in NSW.

    Plans were quickly made to combine the Tumbarumba Trail with the Wodonga to Tallangatta and Wangaratta to Bright Rail Trails. It did not take long for the word to spread and very quickly we had over 25 riders recruited.

    Of course, everyone knows that the Snowy Mountains are called that for very good reason. "It will be freezing", I warned everyone. "You will need thermals, hats, gloves, coats, scarves, leggings, arm warmers, leg warmers, and ear warmers", I added. "And then the really cold weather will set in".

    I figured that it is always better to be prepared than be sorry. Our riders set about packing cases full of arctic gear and snow riding clothes. We were prepared for the very worst that the Snowys could throw at us.

    It was only when the weather forecasts started to come through that we could see that maybe the conditions would not be as brutal as I had anticipated. After a rather gloomy couple of weeks in Melbourne, the clouds finally scuttled away, the sunshine broke through and we were presented with the very best day that we had seen for some time.

    Our riders set out from Melbourne for the 500 km drive to Tumbarumba in high spirits. We all felt like kids on the eve of Christmas. It just felt so good to be finally heading away on a trip.

    The sunny weather followed us all the way to Tumbarumba and the long drive was made all the better for the never-ending kaleidoscope of vivid autumn colours that followed us the whole way.

    We stopped at Yea for our morning tea stop and a chance to meet up with Gordon and Sue and Gael and Gerry. From there we formed a sort of three-car convey to complete the rest of the journey. It did help the long km to flow past relatively quickly.

    Our final stop was at Holbrook. A late lunch in the park, indulgently feasting on sandwiches and cakes, seemed like an appropriate way to punctuate the drive. From there it was only another 80 km of absolutely delightful driving to reach our destination of Tumbarumba. I was glad that we had taken the time to clean the inside of our very smeary windscreen before we left Melbourne as the scenery was breathtaking. There was no doubt that this was absolutely the very best time of the year to explore this region.

    After checking into our motel, 17 of us decided to head for the nearby Tumbarumba Hotel for a pub dinner. Then we enjoyed a short walk back under the stars to our waiting rooms. We are so looking forward to the next few days in this beautiful region.    Read more

  • The World on Two WheelsCanada, Cuba and Covid 19The World on Two Wheels

    30 Days Without Covid

    November 29, 2020 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    According to the calendar it's been over two weeks since I last posted a footprint. That could be because (a) not that much has been happening or (b) I am becoming slack or (c) both of the above.

    Actually, it would be very misleading to say that nothing much has been happening. In fact, it has been an exciting time for Australia, and Victoria in particular. We were always told that 14 straight days without a new Covid infection would mark a significant milestone in our post Covid recovery. That point was reached two weeks ago.

    At the time it was a real reason to celebrate. For the first time in months we could dare to believe that there was going to be a life after Covid after all. Even better has been the fact that the run of "donut days" has continued unbroken. Today marked the 30th such day. Since 14 days represents one Covid cycle, we have now completed two such cycles. The experts are now cautiously telling us that we have achieved Covid elimination in Victoria.

    Apparently there is a difference between Covid elimination and Covid eradication. We might not have fully eradicated it yet, but elimination is surely the next best thing.

    The improving situation in Victoria has meant that restrictions have been even further relaxed. We can now entertain up to 15 people per day in a private house. Of even greater significance for the Ghostriders, we can now have groups of up to 50 people participating in outdoor events. This means that we do not have to count all our riders to make sure that we have no more than 10 riders in any group.

    Last Thursday was the first time we were able to put these new guidelines into effect. It was our first unrestricted ride in many months - and it felt wonderful. Even the weather played the part by providing us ideal conditions for riding.

    One of the most unpopular things we have had to endure for the past few months has been the compulsory wearing of face masks when outside the home. We have now been told we need only wear these masks when in close proximity to other people. This means that we can enjoy the freedom of "bare faced cycling" once again. It is amazing how important such things become when you no longer have them. It certainly felt great to be able to ride and breathe freely again.

    Eighteen riders met for this very important ride, although we did divide into two smaller groups for the ride itself. The ride itself went mostly according to plan, although we did get slightly lost at one point and one rider had a fall from his bike. These minor mishaps did not stop us from smiling the whole way. It was great to be alive and share fun with the friends we had missed for so long.

    So what else has changed ? The state borders are progressively starting to open - just in time for Christmas. It is now possible to travel between Victoria, NSW, Queensland and Tasmania, without having to quarantine on arrival. Western Australia is taking a more cautious approach and seems determined to stay closed until the next Ice Age.

    And what about South Australia ? That is the only sour note in an otherwise positive report. Over the past two weeks South Australia has experienced a new local outbreak of cases. This has grown to around 30 active cases in a significant cluster. Having seen just how quickly such outbreaks can spread through a population, it has obviously been a cause of concern.

    The initial response of the South Australian government was to throw the entire state into a complete lockdown for 6 days. The extent of this lockdown was even more extreme than we experienced in Victoria. After only three days of this lockdown, the governemnt did an abrupt about turn and called it all off. They are now reliant on contact tracing to prevent further spread, but they have not been entirely successful in this as every day brings another 2 or 3 new cases.

    For the past few days I have been back in Melbourne, while Maggie has stayed down in Inverloch to enjoy a well earned rest. The remaining short time before Christmas looks like it will be the busiest we have had for a long time.    Read more

Get your own travel profile

Free

QR code

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android

  • 2025© FindPenguins
  • Home
  • About us
  • Group Tracking
  • Press
  • Terms
  • Privacy Policy & Cookies
  • Help Center
  • Legal notice