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2013 Bhutan by Bike2013 Bhutan by Bike
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In May 2013 11 Ghostriders headed off to Bhutan on what will go down as our most magical and memorable ride ever. Read more
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  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 12

    Farewell Bhutan

    May 16, 2013 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Paro, Bhutan, Thursday May 16th

    In just a few short hours we will be flying out this little country and our amazing adventure will be coming to an end. Although we will be leaving, I am sure that part of our hearts will be here forever. From the moment we landed just 11 days ago we were immediately captivated by the beautiful scenery and the gentle, quiet spirit of the people. Wherever we have travelled our affection has grown and now we are at the point when we are genuinely sorry to be leaving.

    We all count ourselves fortunate indeed to have had the privelege to visist this secretive country where they revere their animals and mountains so much that all animals are protected and their towering Himalayan peaks are sanctuaries that are out of bounds to climbers. What a contrast this is to the situation that you find in neighbouring Nepal. I wonder how long the people will be able to stay relatively untouched by western influences now that they have access to TV and the Internet. I suspect that this will inevitably erode the strict standards of dress and morals that they currently have. It wonderful to see everyone, from toddlers to elderly, dressed in the national costume of white sleeved gown. Especially refreshing has been the complete absence of smoking - no clouds of noxious smoke, no cigarette buts under foot. Cigarettes are banned throughout the country, that alone says a lot about the attitude that happiness is really the most important goal to be achieved by the government.

    I just saw on the news that a big cyclone is heading for Bangladesh. That is a bit of a concern just when we are about to take off from the world's most dangerous airstrip and then fly directly into Bangladesh ! Oh well, maybe our adventure is not quite over yet......

    Bye from Bhutan

    Part 2 (written in Bangkok)
    Bangkok May 16th
    The old saying reminds us that "what a difference a day makes" and we certainly witnessed the truthfulness of that today. This morning we packed up our bags for our final day in Bhutan, said goodbye to our faithful guides and made our way to the tiny Paro airstrip. Since this airstrip has everything going against it - including being at high altitude, having a short runway and being nestled between towering mountains on all sides, we were all a little apprehensive about the takeoff. I must admit that I had been hoping that the plane would be only half full and thus give us a better chance of lift after takeoff, however when I inquired of the check in girl she calmy assured me that "every seat is full sir". Looking at the overladen bags of brass buddhas and similar heavy souvenirs being checked in, my anxiety levels rose even more. On the other hand, if we were going to fly headlong into a cliff face, at least it would be painless.

    There was one other plane too take off before us and I was pleased to see that it took off in the direction of the slightly less high mountain range. When it was our turn to take off the pilot decided to add some extra spice by taking off towards the highest mountains possible. Obviously he wanted a challenge and he put on quite a display as we roared off with engines straining and then rapidly swerving from side to side in a series of stomach twisting maneuvers. In spite of his best attempts to prune the tree tops, somehow, we did manage to break away from gravity and climb through the thin air - right into the centre of a huge cyclone.
    the morning news told all about the massive cyclone that was currently devastating Bangladesh, but I did not know then that we would be flying right into it. With massive thunderclouds all around us the plane tossed violently from side to side as the pilot warned that "the drinks service will be suspended". He also announced that we would be landing for a refuelling stop in Dakar !

    Nobody told us about that in the itinerary. As we dropped to a landing our views of Bangladesh revealed a country almost completely under water, in fact the whole place looked like a huge swamp. Dropping lower the rain started sheeting across the window beside me. Although we did not have mountains to consider I just hoped the pilot's windscreen wipers were in good order. With a few side shifts the plane did manage to crab its way onto the runway but then had to dramatically execute a high speed left hand turn when a tractor appeared on the runway in front of us. I guess that probably happens all the time here but it did convince me that we would NEVER conduct a Ghostriders Bangladesh ride !!!!!

    After a 45 min stop and a bellyfull of fuel the plane took off again for a rough 2 hour flight to Bangkok. The towering cloud and storm formations all around us were quite spectacular and the Drukair plane seemed to be taking the battering in its stride. Needless to say we did land safely and are now resting in our hotel in Bangkok. Tomorrow our next adventure begins when we confront the searing heat of Thailand to begin our first Thailand ride.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 11

    Climb to the Tigers Nest

    May 15, 2013 in Bhutan

    There is one building that is undoubtedly the most famous and most photographed structure in Bhutan. Precariously perched high above the valley on the outskirts of Paro, this amazing building is approximately 900 metres higher than the valley floor. If you want to visit the Tiger's Nest, there is no alternative other than to climb the very steep and rocky path from the car park at the base of the cliff. I can tell you now that it is hard work to reach the top, but the effort is surely worth it.

    After our final full day in Bhutan, we were treated to a cultural show back at our hotel in the evening. The Bhutanese are fiercely proud of their country, and rightly so. We adored our time there and were very impressed at the intelligence and dignity of the people.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 10

    Back to Paro

    May 14, 2013 in Bhutan

    Our time spent in the Phobjika Valley will certainly rate as the highlight of the trip. The electricity failed soon after our arrival (I gather this is a regular occurrence here) but it did not affect our enjoyment at all. The place was just so peaceful and beautiful that we did not need Internet and TV or any other trappings to enjoy ourselves. Yesterday we set off on a hike along the Valley and marveled at the scenes that unfolded before us as we walked along. At one point we came across a group of people building a large new home - not a power tool in sight but the workmanship was superb. While carpenters were busy hand shaping huge wooden beams the women were busy tamping down the earth in the packed earth walls. It was fascinating to see the way the whole village worked together to build the new house. Apparently this is what they do for each new married couple.

    This morning our time in the valley reluctantly came to an end as we packed our bags and rode the bus back up to the top of the 3300 m pass. We then got back on the bikes for the longest and most exhilerating downhill you could imagine. It was approx 52 km long and a vertical drop of just over 2000 metres. It was a pity that the road surface was appalling for most of the way. The surface was full of potholes and in places it has disappeared altogether. In several locations large landslides had almost completely blocked the roadway and new slips looked about to occur at any minute. Once again we had superb weather for the ride.
    The weather in Bhutan can be very fickle to say the least, but for the duration of our stay we have not had a single day when it rained during a ride or walk ! I liked to think that was something top do with the spirit of Camelot.

    When we finally ran of downhill riding on the outskirts of Panukha we bade farewell to our bikes for the final time. The bikes were Trek 4300 MTB bikes and they had taken a huge beating but had emerged unscathed through the trip. The rest of the long return journey to Paro was done in the bus and this gave us a final chance to see the roads that we had previously ridden along.

    We arrived back at hotel in Paro soon after 4 pm. Later in the evening we said our final farewell and thanks to our truck driver. Since we will not be using the bikes any longer, he will now return to Thimpu where he lives. Tomorrow we will taking the difficult climb up to the Tiger's Nest, one of Bhutan's most venerated places and probably the most photographed site in Bhutan.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 9

    The Phobjika Valley

    May 13, 2013 in Bhutan

    I know I have been describing Bhutan as Shandri La since we arrived here 8 days ago. At the time we all thought that to be accurate, however I now know better for we have just returned from 3 days in the true Shangri La - an incredible magical valley hiiden high in the Himalaya, remote even by Bhutanese standards. Before I tell you any more about that magic valley I should fill you in on some of what we have been doing in the past few days.

    We rode out of Thimpu up to the rowering Dochula Pass at 3150 m. It was steep uphill all the way and the road was crumbling into dust for much of the way. In spite of this it was quite an achievement when we finally rolled into the stupa that marks the summit. Here were thousands of brightly coloured prayer flags flapping in the breeze. We spent some time to soak up the atmosphere before remounting the bikes for the hair raising and bone shattering 40 km descent to Punakha. With large trucks apperaing round the bends without warning it certainly paid to keep your concentration or else your ride could quickly have degenerated into a catastrophe. Fortunately we all made it safely to the bottom - battered but in high spirits.

    After a couple of days exploring the region around Punakha we climbed aboard the bus for the long slog up to the Lawala Pass (3300 metres). At the summit we were met by the sight of dozens of Yaks grazing in the rich pastures. These large beasts can only live at high altitudes and it was the first glimpse we had seen of them in Bhutan. This really made us feel like we were on the verge of another page in our unfolding adventure. It was then back on the bikes for the beautiful descent into the Phobijka Valley. This is world renowned for being the home to the Black Necked Crane. It did not take long for us to fall under the spel of this beautiful valley. In all my travels I doubt that I have ever seen a place just so spellbinding. It really was as if we had left time behind to venture into another world.

    As we climbed up the steep drive to our hotel we were faced with a building that looked like a storybook magic castle. The inside was just as mesmerising and the views from the dining room windows were breathtaking. It took in a full 180 degrees panorama and the valley looked like a huge green and fertile basin surrounded by towering mountains all around. Dotted throughout were dozens of houses, each one looking like a highly decorated dolls house. I could have just sat and admired the view for hours since I knew that no amount of photos would ever do it justice. This was about as remote as we were ever going to be. Since there was only one narrow road into this place I suspect that most would not have worried if the road had been blocked and we had been forced to stay a few days longer.

    To be continued    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 8

    Over the Lawala Pass to Gangtey

    May 12, 2013 in Bhutan

    Punakha, Bhutan - Sunday May 12th

    Happy Mothers' Day to all the mothers back there in Australia !!

    Even though I have described Bhutan as a veritable Shangri La in the Himalayas there is one aspect of its way of life that is less than perfect. Because of their great resepect for all livining things there is a huge population of wandering dogs that hang around all the places where people live. These dogs do not belong to anyone in particular but are obviously used to being fed by those nearby. During the daytime they mostly lie in the sun sleeping peacefully and it is not uncommon to see a dozen or more just dozing together. They are certainly not wild or aggressive, on the contrary they seem as gentle as the people that feed them. Sometimes they will cotton onto us and follow us along on our bikes, probably hoping that we will give them something to eat.

    In Australia the problem would be tackled by rounding them all up and probably destroying them. That would of course never happen here so they go on breeding exponentially. It is only after dark that this sleepy mass of dogs decide to all wake up and start up a nocturnal chorus of biblical proportions. In this town in particular you are serenaded by dozens of dogs all joining in some sort of Himalayan wailing and whining. Each dog seems to know its part and they all play their own part with incredible vigor. What a caucophony !!!! No wonder some books recommend bringing along ear plugs for sleeping. Of course, apart from the dogs, the nights are blissfully peaceful. While I am writing this another huge chorus of dogs has just begun a short distance from this hotel. It will continue for several minutes and then just as suddenly they all stop at the same instant. Weird.

    Today we leave Punakha and head back up into the mountains. Within a few hours we will be back up at 3400 metres and a completely different climate. Down here it is much warmer and more humid, that's why it is used as the winter capital. When we are back up over 3000 metres we can say goodbye to the humidity and of course it will be much cooler. As far as the weather we have experienced so far, it has been very comfortable. I suspect that the max temperature during the day would be mid 20s, although the sun does have a strong burn factor in the thin air. At night it is probably about 15C. I have had no need for the thermals that I brought all the way from Australia with me.

    Last night we had a birthday party for Gonny Rundell (one of our riders). We even managed to get a beautiful chocolate birthday cake for her. I suspect it will be birthday she will long remember.

    Once we leave Punakha we will have no access to the Internet for several days. so this will be my final update until we get back to Paro.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 7

    Cycling the Giant Bridge

    May 11, 2013 in Bhutan

    Panukha, Bhutan Sat May 11th

    The spirit of Camelot is still alive and well here. We were able to complete our long day's ride yesterday in fine and mostly sunny conditions. It was not until we were securely at our hotel that the sky darkened with a lovely Himalayan thunderstorm with torrential rain, lightning and thunder. The rain persisted until nearly midnight but when we awoke in the morning the skies were clear again.

    We rode a short distance along the banks of a glorious white water river to the most beautiful Dzong we have yet seen. Situated right above the river bank, the imposing structure was fronted by a row of huge jacaranda trees, all in full bloom with a cloak of brilliant purple flowers. The fallen petals also made a frgrant floral carpet under our feet as we approached the front entrance. In Bhutan, Dzongs serve a dual purpose as seats of government and also as monasteries/temples.

    Once inside the structure the inner courtyard offered a cool and peaceful sanctuary from the outside world. All the timber work was covered with the most intricate paintwork and the cooing doves added to the general serenity of the place. We spent some time exploring this exquisite building and we were reminded again of just how few tourists ever travel to Bhutan. In Europe such a place would be crammed with thousands of jostling tourists, all clicking on their cameras, playing with their phones, smoking cigarettes and following someone with a red flag on a stick. Here we had the place to ourselves and it was heavenly.

    The highlight of the ride to the Dzong had been the crossing of the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan. At 210 metres long and towering high above the turbulent waters far below, it certainly was a sight to behold. Some of us decided to ride our bikes across the bridge and, while it was not quite as confronting as abseiling from the summit of Table Mountain, it was certainly enough to get the adrenaline pumping.On the return ride we followed the sealed road rather the muddy track we had followed on the outward ride. The midday sun was hot and burning and we were glad to reach the cool shade of a local restaurant where we stopped for lunch. Now that I am safely back at the hotel it is looking like the rain is about to start again. How is that for timing ?    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 6

    Ride to Punakha

    May 10, 2013 in Bhutan

    This morning we left Thimpu on the next leg of our adventure (or should I say wheel of our adventure ?). The first few kilometres were undulating and then we hit the main challenge of the day - to ride up and over a 3200 metre pass. The climb went on and on and the road surface was full of ruts and potholes making it even worse than a dirt road. A few riders gave up early and ended up in the following bus but 6 of us persevered all the way to the summit. It was a pity that the low lying cloud did not part long enough for us to see the view which we were told is absolutely incredible.

    After lunch we then embarked on the longest and most exhilerating descent I have ever done. It just went on and on and on, eventually dropping over 2000 metres to Punakha. The road was great for some of the descent inviting some of our riders to take ridiculous risks, accompanied by hoots of exhileration. Then it degenerated into a dog track, shared with a succession of big Tata trucks belching smoke in our faces. When we finally arrived at our hotel late in the afternoon we were all high on endorphins and many said it was the best day's riding they have ever had.

    Tomorrow will be an easier day (we hope).    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 5

    Climbing Higher

    May 9, 2013 in Bhutan

    Yesterday we rode from Paro to Thimpu. It was an undulating route and the thin air combined with the frequent climbs made the ride quite challenging. By the time we arrived at Thimpu we were relieved when we finally reached our hotel.
    Thimpu is the capital city of Bhutan and the seat of government for 6 months of the year. There appears to be a building boom in progress with dozens of large new buildings unde construction everywhere you look. Our hotel (The Riverview Hotel - find it on the Internet) has a great vantage point down to the rapidly flowing river and across to the city on the opposite side.

    In the afternoon we went to see the ceremonial lowering of the flag at the main Dzong (seat of government). It is also where the king has his office and his modest palace. I thought that he might have heard that the Ghostriders were in town and come to say hello, but there was no sign of him.

    This morning we climbed back on the bikes for a ride higher into the mountains. It had a few really gut busting climbs at around 12 to 15% which had everyone searching for the lowest possible granny gear while trying to grab lungful's of air.
    At one point we had to stop because the army was practising with large calibre weapons. It was almost the first time that the Ghostriders had found themselves in a war zone. The sound of the explosions booming through the mountains was quite impressive. At the summit of the climb, we left the bikes and climbed (staggered) up the side of a cliff face to a temple perched on the very top of a mountain. The views from the top made all the effort worthwhile and the downhill slide was easier than the going up. After a picnic lunch and game of Bhutanese darts in the sunshine we returned to our hotel - tired but happy.

    Our adventure will continue tomorrow with the longest ride of the trip. How will we fare ? Time will tell, I guess.    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 4

    Ride to Thimpu

    May 8, 2013 in Bhutan

    Today we cycled from Paro to Thimpu, the capital city of Bhutan. The scenery along the way was delightful with lots of highly decorated houses dotted over the mountainsides. The road was interesting and had lots of climbs and descents. It was also interesting to see the way that local drivers choose to pass in the most dangerous places. Bhutanese road signs are always very polite - some examples "Please be careful of shooting rocks" followed by another sign 100 metres further on "Thank You". Other equally polite road signs warn of the dangers of speeding or using a mobile phone while driving. The people here are very respectful of their King, their country and the law.

    The weather started out a little cool and drizzly but the clouds soon lifted and we were able to do most of the ride in warm sunshine. I was reminded of those words about Camelot and the rain "never coming till after sundown". We are now safely in the hotel in Thimpu and a big Himalayan thunderstorm is bearing down on Thimpu. The thunder is rolling down the valley and echoing through the mountains. No wonder the name "Bhutan" means "Land of the Thunder Dragon".

    All our Ghostriders look terrific in their matching yellow jerseys and I am sure that we have been noticed everywhere we have been. All have agreed that the trip has already exceeded their expectations (and it''s only day 3).    Read more

  • The World on Two Wheels2013 Bhutan by Bike
    Day 3

    Exploring Paro by Bike

    May 7, 2013 in Bhutan

    Today we had the opportunity to climb on our bikes and test our legs by riding around the city of Paro and nearby hills.

    Here is my diary entry:

    I am sitting in our hotel in Paro on our second day in Bhutan, thinking that I have fallen in love. Yep fallen in love with this amazing little country. Before we arrived we all had preconceptions of what we were going to find but these have been swept away in a few short hours. It is certainly different to any previous country I have ever travelled through. In some respects we all find ourselves shaking our heads in disbelief at the sights that await us around every corner. I suspected that is would be similar to nearby Nepal - I could not have been more wrong. It is little wonder that the Bhutanese people have fought so hard to maintain their wonderful culture and way of life.Read more

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