• The World on Two Wheels
ago. – oct. 2023

2023 Itzonagen European Ride

Early in 2018 I started making plans for a new European Cycling Adventure, to be conducted in September 2020. However, Covid 19 put a stop to those plans for three years. Now finally "Itzonagen". Leer más
  • Decize and the Canal de Nivernais

    2 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    After our brief sojourn in Dijon, it was time to move on to the fifth and final leg of our multi part European Ride - the ride along the Canal de Nivernais in Burgundy.

    After enjoying a lovely light breakfast at the Aparthotel in Dijon, we made the short walk back to the Gare de Dijon. Originally, we had thought that today's transfer to Dijon would have only involved a single train journey of around an hour. Unfortunately, the French railway people had chosen this time to undertake major works on the lines in this region. Instead of a simple, single train ride, we discovered that we would have to make a train ride and then two bus rides. This was not a prospect that we were looking forward to.

    At least the first part went according to plan. The train departed on time and it was only sparsely occupied. We even managed to find secure space for our luggage. It was only when the time came for us to get off the train that we almost encountered a real disaster.

    As we were getting off the train, we had to negotiate a series of steps and (most dangerous of all) a door handle that was specifically designed to catch on to any loose luggage strap that happened to be near. As I dismounted, I came close to being hooked, but managed to break free, Gordon was not so lucky.

    As he negotiated the steps, his backpack was ripped out of his grip and fell right down between the train and the platform, finally coming to rest near the massive train wheels. If that was not bad enough, Gordon then started to climb down onto the tracks in an attempt to retrieve it!

    "It's only a backpack", I yelled, "let it go". Gordon reluctantly climbed back onto the safety of the platform and looked forlornly down at his lost luggage. In the meantime, the incident had caught the attention of the station staff. They communicated with the driver by walkie talkie, and gave permission for the train to leave.

    Fortunately the train wheels narrowly missed the bag, and it was then safely retrieved by the station guard. Disaster was thus averted.

    While all this was happening, we were also conscious that another clock was ticking - the next bus was due to leave in only a couple of minutes. We charged from the station and climbed onto the first bus we saw. To our relief, it happened to be the right one.

    We then had a very comfortable bus ride to Le Cruisot, and waited for the final bus to arrive. By this time the day was really starting to heat up. The sun had a fierce sting to it, and we went in search of any shade we could find, while we waited for the second bus to arrive.

    The second bus did arrive on time, but we found that the inside was like a sauna. The driver did not seem to know how to turn the AC on. To compensate for the heat in the bus, the scenery outside was absolutely sublime. This is a beautiful part of France, and it was impossible not to be impressed.

    We finally rolled into Decize around 1.30 pm, but which time we were hot, hungry and thirsty. We also knew that the hotel was too far from the station to walk. What we didn't know was that the small city has NO TAXIS.

    About 400 m from the station we rolled our cases into a small Boulangerie, where the owners were obviously very glad to see us. They were even more glad when we ordered baguettes, soft drinks, coffees and cakes. When we explained that we wanted to get to our hotel, the (very) friendly lady said that her husband would drive us. And he did.

    Travel is often like that. Just when a problem arises, an unexpected solution arises soon after. It took two trips for the husband to transfer us and all our luggage, so it well worth the 50 Euro tip we offered him. Although he did not want money, we knew that he needed it, so it felt good to help him out. It was a win-win situation for everyone.

    Our hotel is right next to the beautiful marina, where we watched the big fish jumping out of the water while the sun set. That evening we dined outside, celebrating Maggie's birthday. It was an absolutely special end to an eventful day.
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  • Decize to Corbigny (90 km)

    3 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Our ride started at the hotel in Decize, but first we had to wait for our bikes to arrive. We were all a little nervous about what standard of bikes we would be supplied with. Would they be of the same great standard we had enjoyed on the previous 3 sections, or would they be rusty old clunkers ?

    Eventually a van arrived at around 9.30 am. The young driver introduced himself as Jean-Luc and then set about getting the bikes prepared for us. At the time we estimated JeanLuc to be around 29 years old. We were staggered to later discover that he was actually 51. I guess nature is kinder to some than others.

    When we finally had a chance to examine the bikes, we found them to be quality bikes by Velo de Ville. They were a bit more "tired" than our previous bikes but they proved to be the most popular of all the bikes we had ridden.

    After about an hour of setting up, we were finally ready to start the ride. There was some confusion as to how long the ride was going to be (varied between 45km and 85 km). We were a little concerned when we came to the conclusion that the ride would be closer to 90 km in total, To add to the fear factor, the weather also looked very threatening.
    The first part of the ride out of Decize was quite terrible. The road was narrow, and heavily trafficked by large speeding trucks. It was a big relief when we reached the Canal de Nivernais, and no longer had to ride in fear for our lives.

    Our ride then closely followed the Canal all day. Our first impressions were very favourable. The canal was narrow and regularly interspersed with numerous locks. It was quite amazing to learn that the construction of the canal began in 1784, and was not completed until 1840. It must have been a monumental engineering achievement at that time. The main purpose of the canal was to join the Loire and the Seine Rivers to allow timber rafts to be floated from the forests of Morvan all the way to Paris.

    Although we had expected the tow path to be rather rough, we were relieved to find that, for most of the ride, the path was really very smooth. This made for very pleasant riding.

    By 11.30 am we had ridden about 20 km and were looking for something to eat. We turned from the path at Cercy La Tour and finally found a boulangerie. We ate our lunches outside while the rain started. It was not a great omen, especially as at that stage we had no idea of how far we still had to ride.

    The weather deteriorated until we were all quite wet. This was only the second wet day we have had since we arrived in Europe 6 weeks ago, but we had no option other than to push on. The canal was punctuated by regular locks, each one with a small manager's cottage (It was the cottage that was small, not the manager).

    The ride went on. 45 km, 55 km, 65 km but Corbigny never seemed to get any closer. At one stage Maggie was excited when she saw an otter.

    By this stage we were all getting tired as it had been a long day. 70 km came and went. I estimated that we still had another 20 km to go, but was reluctant to share that information with the rest of the peloton.

    We then encountered a region where the canal dropped sharply in elevation, necessitating even more frequent locks. It was quite a spectacle. We were all quite surprised when we rode past one cottage which looked like it had become stuck in the mad days of the 1970s. They had even laid pieces of carpet on the road outside, along with lots of eclectic hippy paraphernalia.

    The final 10 km went on for about 20 km, so it was a quite a relief when we finally arrived in Corbigny. According to our speedos we had ridden around 90 km- an amazing achievement under the circumstances, especially for Maggie who was barely able to walk at the start of the day.

    Tomorrow is a much more modest ride of around 40 km.
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  • Corbigny to Clamecy

    4 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The day began with a very cold start at around 5C with widespread fog, but promises of a lovely day ahead.

    We all decided to buy baguette sandwiches for lunch from the boulangerie in Corbigny. These were carefully packed in our panniers for enjoying later.

    First couple of km out of town were a bit scary, until we reached the peace and safety of the Canal du Nivernais. We were soon battling freezing fingers and dripping noses, but the scenery along the canal made up for the hardship. The fog was slowly lifting as the cows in the paddocks peacefully lifted their heads to watch us pass them by.

    Yesterday we had a lot of km to cover, and therefore we were more concentrated on moving along than in savoring the beauty that was around us. Today we had plenty of time to thoroughly enjoy every part of the ride. The succession of old houses, deserted lock keepers' homes and quiet villages was absolutely what we have all come to love about France.

    The only thing missing was an open café selling hot drinks. The GPS led us to a couple of possibilities, but they were all shut. In one village we saw a very likely looking place, but, once again, the place was firmly shut. The sign on the window explained that the café was closed “for leave”.

    While we were feeling sorry for ourselves outside the locked café, a lady came from the house opposite and started chatting. She was carrying a rather bemused young child. The lady was obviously pleased to see us, in fact I suspected our arrival was the most exciting thing the village had seen for a long time. She was even more excited when Carol presented her with one of the small toy koalas she had brought from Australia.

    We eventually found a TABAC in Tannay. This necessitated a detour from the hotel, and the town was situated at the top of a hill. Thank goodness for ebikes. After coffees and hot chocolates, we were on our way again.

    A short distance further along we stopped alongside a lock for our picnic lunch. The baguettes and cakes were just as good as we had hoped they would be. It was a lovely way to spend time, just soaking up the amazing atmosphere.

    In a nearby location we stumbled upon a deserted lock keepers house. It was in a rundown state, but Maggie fell in love with what it could become in the right hands. It certainly was interesting to wander around inside and picture what life would have been like here when it was inhabited.

    At another lock we watched a Dutch couple manoeuvre their beautiful and quite huge boat through the gates. They explained that the boat was built in 1896 and was still fully original. When I asked the lady how she came be living on a boat, she simply answered “I met an idiot”. Enough said.

    We rolled into the beautiful hamlet of Clamecy about 2 pm, and found that our luggage had not arrived yet. That gave some time to explore the town before checking into the rooms.

    This had been one of the finest days of our entire trip. We now have only two cycling days left, before we say goodbye to our bikes for the final time.
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  • Clamecy to Auxerre

    5 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    It was yet another freezing start to the day. We had enjoyed our picnic the previous day so much that we decided to do it again. Before starting the ride we went in search of a boulangerie to buy our lunches. This took us back into the old medieval part of Clamecy. This part of the city is a maze of narrow lanes and extremely old buildings.

    We found a tiny place that said they could make our sandwiches, but the only ingredients she had were cheese and ham. At least that narrowed down the decisions. I chose to have her make two ham and cheese sandwiches, but she informed me that the bread was still too warm to cut. We would have to wait a while. At least we would know the bread was fresh.

    She then disappeared out the front of the shop and went down a flight of stairs, leaving us to run the shop in her absence. And that is what we did.
    About 20 minutes later she reappeared with our sandwiches. I also bought a couple of cakes and some drinks, and finally we were ready to leave.

    Soon we were back on the canal, enjoying the serenity of the bitterly cold morning air. The surface of the riding trail was surprisingly good (actually it has been good for the entire length of the canal). It is amazing how this entire complex system of canals, locks and water control was designed over 250 years ago. Construction actually began way back in 1784 and took around 60 years to complete. What an incredible achievement in an age before computers, power machinery, aerial surveys and the like. All the work had to be done by hand.

    About 20 km into the ride we rode into a small village in search of coffee. By chance we happened to arrive on market day – the only day when anything happens in these villages. There were a few small stalls selling fruit, meat and second hand clothes. We were somewhat surprised to find the largest stall was selling beds and mattresses. I had not expected to find a Captain Snooze in such an unlikely place, and wondered how many locals would be loading up their trucks and tractors with brand new beds.

    I ordered two cappuccinos at the TABAC and was a little taken aback to be charged 10Euro (almost $20). I know that prices have increased since we were last in Europe, but this was canal side robbery. It was only when the two finished works came out that we could see why the charge was so high. It was obviously something the owner was very proud of, but it certainly wasn’t a cappuccino. Whatever it was, it was served in a glass and had multiple coloured layers, topped off with a huge serving of artificial cream and a big biscuit. I also had never had a cappuccino served with a drinking straw before. It was a rather memorable experience.

    A short distance later we found a lovely Aire de pique nique (picnic spot) where we could enjoy our baguettes while looking at a chateau perched high on a cliff on the other side of the canal. The sandwiches were delicious and the location magic.

    The remainder of the ride was equally enjoyable. The sun had driven away the remainder of the fog and the temperature became perfect for riding.

    At this stage of the ride the canal parallels the river Yonne, and they perform a complex, interwoven embrace complete with waterfalls (and of course lots of locks).

    At one location we made a chance discover of acres of bright pink cyclamen. They carpeted the area as far as we could see. It was one of the most beautiful sights you could imagine, but unfortunately the photos did not do it justice.

    Our destination for the day was the sizeable city of Auxerre. This also marks the finish of the Canal du Nivernais. Tomorrow our ride will conclude as we follow the Yonne to the smaller city of Joigny. That will also mark the conclusion of our 2023 Europe Ride.

    In the evening we went to Le Quais Restaurant, only a short 1 km walk from our hotel. What a strange experience. After the incredible service we had had at the previous evening, this one was everything that a restaurant should not be.

    The menu was extremely limited and, when we tried to change anything, the immediate response was to answer NO. It was only by direct plea to the boss that we finally made any headway. The message did not get through to the surly young waiter, who had the worst attitude problem I had seen in a long time. He obviously did not want to serve us and did everything possible to make us feel unwelcome. Food was almost slung on the table, wrong dishes were presented and numerous disagreements ensued between the staff and the boss. It really must be hard to get staff in this town, as otherwise any reasonable business would have given the young chap his marching orders.

    It was quite a funny spectacle as the unfolding drama played out. We never really knew what was going to happen next. It almost made me wonder if this was some sort of act that they performed each night to entertain the diners. The place was certainly full of people, so it must have been popular with the local. We even happened to meet an Australian couple from Canberra who were dining at the next table. They told an unlikely story of coming to Europe to meet the pope ! Maybe it was true.
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  • We Arrive at Joigny

    6 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    A few hours ago, our final group of 8 riders completed their ride along the Nivernais Canal and Yonne River, arriving at the beautiful historic city of Joigny. It was a perfect, fairytale ending to an incredible 7 weeks of riding in Europe. How privileged we have been to have been able to share such an adventure together.

    Following the success of the previous day's picnic, we all decided to buy sandwiches for another picnic lunch. While the women stayed at the hotel, the men joined me while I led them to the Boulangerie. I promptly rode out of the hotel and turned left. The surroundings soon felt strangely alien. I came to the unpleasant realisation that I had led the group the wrong way.

    When Maggie and I had walked to the Boulangerie the previous day, we had left via the front entrance of the hotel. Today I had left via the rear entrance. That is why everything looked weird. I had to admit to the others that I had made a mistake, and then retreat to head off in the correct direction.

    The short ride to the Boulangerie took us past the city prison (complete with towering walls and barbed wire). We purchased the picnic ingredients and rode back to the hotel.

    “What took you so long ?”, was the immediate query from the waiting women. "I don't want to talk it", was my reply.

    We were soon heading out of Auxerre, feeling the full impact of the freezing cold air. Soon our fingers and ears were frozen, but it only added to the fun. The day was absolutely still and foreshadowed another perfect ride.

    Since our final ride was only short, we wanted to savour it for as long as possible. The pace dropped back to around 17 kph, and at times even lower.

    We were now riding along the Yonne. It is a beautiful river whose broad width contrasted with the narrow canal we had been following for the past three days.

    At around 10.30 am we deviated from the river in search of a coffee shop. The GPS indicated that there would be a suitable cafe in the centre of the town, but we were all skeptical of the odds of finding a nice coffee shop in such a deserted village.

    We needn't have worried. In spite of the odds, we found a marvelous place – large, modern and serving great coffee. It really was a tremendous surprise.

    A short distance further on, I spied a sign indicating a nearby “Pique Nique” location. It was only round the corner, but complete with lakeside views, tables and rubbish bin. It was also complete with two parked cars, which we first thought were empty, but then noticed there were two people laying down in the rear seat of one of the cars. We had obviously interrupted some sort of illicit liaison.
    It really was very funny. They probably thought they had found the perfect deserted spot for a romantic interlude, only to have their activities disturbed by 8 Australians on bicycles. They eventually emerged from the vehicle, rearranging their clothes and looking rather sheepish.

    The remainder of the ride was completed without incident. Once again, the early cold was replaced by beautiful warm sunshine.

    Whenever you reach the end of such a fantastic ride there are mixed feelings of relief and disappointment.

    Our final hotel in Joigny was Le Rive Gauche. It was a perfect place to finish an epic cycling adventure. The hotel was located in the middle of many acres of lawns, gardens, lakes, petanque and tennis courts. It looked like it had once been the palatial home of someone rich and famous.

    At the end of the day we shared a memorable dinner at the hotel. It was easily one of the best we had enjoyed in the entire trip. There were about 8 courses, all of which were impeccably prepared and presented. What a contrast to the debacle we had shared the previous evening.

    Tomorrow we make the journey to Vermenton, where we will have a week doing nothing but rest and eat. We have earned it.
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  • The Vermenton Mill House

    7 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    After the incredible 8 course dinner (or was it 9 ?) we had last night, I was rather sad to be leaving Joigny. In the short time we had spent at Le Rive Gauche Hotel, we had all fallen a little in love with the place. The town is situated in an idyllic location on the serene Yonne River, and the centre of the old city was very inviting.

    Maggie and I decided to spend our last few hours in this city walking to the market. Although it was quite large, the range of goods was very similar to those peddled in just about every other market around the world - cheap clothes, handbags, Chinese toys and other so called "handicrafts".

    We had also hoped to find somewhere selling SIM cards for my mobile phone, but the combination of poor language skills and unhelpful staff made this an impossible task.

    Back at the hotel we checked out and waited outside for the taxi that had been ordered to take Maggie and Carol to the station. The rest of us formed a walking peloton and walked the one and a half kilometres. Somehow we managed to arrive about 90 minutes early, and had a long wait in the sun for the train to arrive.

    Fortunately the train was not very busy, and we only had to make it as far at the next station, where we would transfer to a bus instead. The train part went smoothly enough, but when we climbed off at the platform, we were met by utter chaos.

    There was a huge throng of people, all trying to clamber down the stairs to reach the connecting buses. I can never understand why a country that can build such incredible railways, cannot spend a few extra dollars to install more lifts and/or escalators in their stations.

    Since Maggie was incapable of handling her luggage, due to her bad back, I was struggling to manhandle all our luggage by myself. Just at the moment I was about to panic, I was assisted by a friendly stranger who grabbed the back end of one of the cases and helped me down the stairs. It really was hugely appreciated.

    When we found the buses, the chaos grew even worse. People were climbing on and off buses in seemingly random fashion. The SNCF railway even had three armed officers to oversee the mess (the officers did not have three arms, I mean they were carrying weapons).

    it was starting to look like we would be standing up in the bus for the 60 minute journey to Vermenton, but somehow it all came good in the end as it mostly does. When we finally stumbled onto the correct bus, we found that it had plenty of seats, and it was nicely air conditioned.

    About 70 minutes we arrived at Vermenton Station and were met by a guy who had been arranged to transfer our luggage to La Moulinette. The rest of us would be walking.

    We have booked into this converted Mill House for the next 7 days, and are so looking forward to having almost nothing to do for that time, apart from rest, read and eat. Greg and Andrea had stayed in this very location 17 years ago, and had recommended it to us.

    It did not take long for us to decide that the place was ideal. The location is as serene as you could imagine, and the ivy-covered exterior was picture perfect.
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  • Sunday in Vermenton

    8 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today was our first full day in this beautiful little town. So how did we spend the first morning ? Mostly sleeping.

    After the non stop schedule of the past 7 weeks, it was a strange feeling to have absolutely no imperative to do anything. Well there was one thing we had to do - get food and provisions.

    We all slept in until the ungodly hour of around 8 am, and then slowly emerged from our rooms. The night was wonderfully peaceful and quiet, and the cool night air coming in our bedroom window allowed us to sleep deeply.

    Without any food, breakfast was skipped. Instead we all formed a walking peloton and walked (strolled) to the supermarket. I had been expecting it to be small and limited in range. I was wrong. It was huge and well stocked, causing our eyes to bulge with greed.

    About 30 minutes later we were staggering back to the Moulinot with bulging grocery bags. At least we would not be missing out on lunch.

    The other important task was to tackle the mountain of dirty laundry which was steadily taking over my luggage. The little washing machine did its best to convert this into a more respectable state, and the warm weather also played its part in helping to get the washing dry.
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  • Hot Times in a French Village

    9 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    When we arrived in the little village of Vermenton on Saturday, we had no idea what the place was like. We even got a little lost on the walk from the station to Le Moulinot, so that we found ourselves in the grounds of another mill house. To our horror that one was completely derelict. I know that sometimes photos can be flattering, but this was ridiculous.

    Fortunately we realised our mistake and managed to locate the correct place. Now, after just two nights in our lodging, the place is really starting to feel familiar. We can navigate to the two most important places in the town (the supermarket and the even more important boulangerie), without getting lost at all.

    We awoke to another perfectly clear morning. Although the night had been cool, the forecast was for a quite hot day, with a top temperature of nearly 30C. After breakfast, we walked back to the boulangerie for cakes and baguettes. We also noticed that the brasserie was open. That was reason for some excitement.

    When we were staying in Caumont four years ago, a simple highlight of each day was an early morning walk, followed by a coffee and pain chocolate in the village square. We thought we could repeat this routine here.

    Unfortunately the reception we received as we walked into the door of the brasserie was decidedly cool. Icy in fact. We struggled to order our drinks, but this only seemed to exasperate the proprietor. He scribbled down something on a piece of paper, then screwed it up and threw it aside in disgust.

    When the drinks arrived, they were actually quite good, but the poor attitude of the owner had spoilt the moment. It was really quite an uncomfortable place to be, and we decided that we probably would not be returning there any time soon.

    The remainder of the day was spent resting and exploring the walking paths near the mill house. This is an exceptionally beautiful location, although a lot of the infrastructure is in need of major repairs. Not far from the house is a complex of 24 petanque courts. Unfortunately, they were all in a very poor state of repair.

    I guess the problem of maintenance in a country which must have hundreds of thousands of buildings and other structures over 200 years old, is never ending.
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  • Round Two in the Brasserie Bout

    10 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Life in a rural French village takes on a simple cadence. Nothing happens in a hurry. Each slow day is punctuated by the twice daily walk to the boulangerie to collect the baguette(s) for the day's meals. Every time you pass another person on the street, you must greet them with the customary "Bonjour". The passing of each hour is acknowledged by the chiming of the church bell. All around you, the process of decay is working inexorably to ensure that all the buildings are steadily working their way towards inevitable oblivion. This does not seem to worry anyone one bit.

    Yesterday we decided to embrace another village custom by visiting the local brasserie (bar) to enjoy a cup of coffee. It turned out to be an interesting, but not very pleasant experience. The guy behind the bar would rate as the most unfriendly Frenchman I have ever had the misfortune to meet. When we tried to order our drinks, we were met by a grunt and a shake of the head. It was very obvious that we were not welcome.

    But today was a brand new day. We decided to give the guy another chance to redeem himself. Equipped with our very best smiles, Maggie and I entered the bar and ordered one hot chocolate and one coffee. It couldn't be simpler. Our order was met with another grunt. Not a promising sign.

    He turned his back and fiddled with the machine, eventually handing me a half filled cup of tepid "hot" chocolate. There was about as much drink as would fill a small egg cup. It was not a good start. Maggie fared a little better, getting about 3/4 of a cup of coffee.

    I looked around the room and noticed that he had some chocolate croissants in a basket. Thinking that it might cheer him up if I added to my purchase I timidly asked for a "Pain chocolate, s'il vous plait". He looked at me in disgust and grunted, (I am not joking, that was exactly what he did).
    I repeated my request, only to be met by an even ruder grunt. If I was going to get my chocolate croissant, I would have to get it myself. So that is what I did. I walked across the room and picked one out of his basket.

    When I sat down outside to drink the diminutive hot chocolate and eat the croissant, I realised that I had made yet another mistake - the croissant was dry and stale. It did help me reach another decision. For the remainder of our time in Vermenton, I would never enter that terrible place again.

    Fortunately, there is another Cafe in the town, so that is where we will go tomorrow.

    Later in the day Maggie and I enjoyed another lovely walk alongside the river and through the Patrice Gay Boulodrome. The afternoon sun made the walk quite warm, and we were glad when we reached the comparative coolness of the millhouse.
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  • A Snake in the Grass

    11 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The unbroken run of perfect days has continued with no end in sight. Each day dawns cool and clear, and then gradually heats up to a top temperature of around 28 C by the late afternoon. I cannot remember the last time we had wind, and, in some ways, it feels like we are immersed in some sort of idyllic Ground Hog Dog, where each day is a repeat of all those perfect days that came before.

    This morning we headed off to discover new areas of the village that we had not explored before. We soon found ourselves at a Roman Laverie (wash house). This place had been heavily restored, but it served to give a good indication of what life might have been like in this area around 2000 years ago.

    After the wash house, we made our way to the Gare (station) to try out the village's other cafe - the Cafe de la Gare. It turned out to be a much more pleasant experience than the one we had shared the previous day. The street was quiet and tree lined, and the proprietress seemed happy to see and serve us.

    On the return walk we found that the quiet little village had burst into life. Several shops which had been closed since we arrived last Saturday, had now opened. There were even people in the streets. It was quite a surprising transformation.

    It was only as we were walking up the drive to the mill house that we received the biggest surprise of all. Without warning, Maggie let out a huge shriek and pointed to the path ahead. I thought at first that she may have seen a small spider or something. When I finally located the object of her terror, it really was not what I was expecting. Slithering across the path was a quite large, pale brown snake. I had to admit that it did give us a bit of a shock, however the fellow obviously meant us no harm. In fact, he was quite beautiful.
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  • High Tea in the Borgogne

    12 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    With our time in Vermenton steadily drawing to a close, the ladies were keen to add a bit of class to our dining. Somehow, they came up with the idea of conducting a "High Tea", complete with scones and cream, cakes, sandwiches and a white table cloth.

    During the morning a team was delegated to walk to the supermarket and boulangerie for supplies, and then Maggie and Andrea set about creating something special.

    By the middle of the afternoon, the spread was ready. The table was set (they even improvised the traditional multi level plate). Then we sat outside in the warm sunshine and enjoyed a little taste of culture.

    Tomorrow will be our last full day in Vermenton, before we pack our bags and catch the train to Paris. That really will mark the final stage of our epic adventure.
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  • Picnic in Accolay

    13 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    With only one full day remaining in Vermenton, we had to decide how we would use that time wisely. Due to Maggie's injured back, we had been rather restricted in how far we could walk from the mill house.

    This morning we awoke to yet another perfect day, and Maggie actually felt that her back was a little better. It was finally time to try out a longer walk.

    About 2 km from Vermenton, is another small village called Accolay. Some of the others in our group had already made the walk, and encouraged us to see it for ourselves. So that is what we did.

    After first walking to our friendly boulangerie for supplies, we then packed a picnic lunch and set out. The path begins at the millhouse, and then meanders through farmland before following the lovely Canal d'Accolay to the village itself.

    Our first impressions of the village were that it was much better maintained than Vermenton. The paths were clean, the bridge recently repaired and the houses were almost all in good condition.

    After enjoying a coffee (1 euro a cup) at the caravan park, we then found a picnic table by the canal to enjoy our lunch. It was a perfect way to spend our final day.

    In the evening we all walked to Vermenton's only pizza shop for a delicious pizza dinner. Tomorrow the weather is predicted to finally break, with the top temperature forecast of 16C. That happens in Europe when summer finally ends and winter arrives in a hurry. We can't really complain, as we have enjoyed an unbelievable run of perfect weather, almost from the first day we arrived in Amsterdam.
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  • The Last Train to Paris

    14 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    During the course of the past 8 weeks we have caught numerous trains, buses, ferries and taxis to get us from one location to another. So far, I am extremely relieved to say, that all the complicated arrangements have worked perfectly.

    We are now all very aware that our mammoth adventure is coming to a conclusion. This morning we all packed our bags for almost the last time, as we prepared to leave Vermenton and head to Paris.

    After breakfast, a few of the group made a final walk into the village to buy some goodies from the Boulangerie, while Maggie and I stayed in the millhouse. We were feeling a mixture of apprehension and excitement as we faced the thought of spending the next few days in Paris. While we both love Paris dearly, we knew that our movements would be restricted by Maggie's sore back. I was also not looking forward to how I was going to get all our luggage from the train station to the apartment we had booked on the right bank. Somehow I just hoped that it would all turn out OK.

    By noon, we were all ready to go. Cynda, the owner of the millhouse, had kindly offered to carry all the group's luggage to the Vermenton Station, so that took care of our first major challenge.

    As Maggie and I slowly walked from the millhouse through the familiar village streets, we were both very conscious that we were walking them for the very last time. We will miss this funny little place that had been our home for the past week.

    When the whole group was at the station, we stopped at the little cafe opposite to share a coffee before our train trip to Paris. Then it was time to cross the road and wait for the train to arrive. This train trip was to be our final train ride for this trip, and we all wondered how full the train would be.

    We have already had bad experiences with trying to manhandle all our luggage onto a crowded train, and did not want to repeat that. Fortunately, when the train pulled up (right on time), we were relieved to see that it was almost empty. We had plenty of room for our luggage, and also found some comfortable seats for ourselves.

    The trip to Paris took around two hours. We climbed off the train at Bercy Station and shared our final goodbye hugs with the friends we had spent the previous 8 weeks with. From now on we will be on our own. It will be a little strange, after spending so much time together with the others.

    The first challenge we faced was getting off the station. We knew that many French stations have multiple staircases to be climbed. Lifts and elevators are often very rare. I could hardly believe it when I saw that the platform led directly to the outside of the station. There was not a single stair to be tackled.

    After walking out the station, I was relieved again to see a line of waiting taxis. A couple of minutes later we were sitting in a very comfortable Skoda taxi and on our way to our apartment. I had told the owner that we were hoping to be there "around 4 pm", and we pulled up at exactly 4.01 pm. This was almost too easy to be true. The taxi was even able to drop us off directly outside the entry door.

    We then had to open two doors, each secured by a different combination, climb into one of the tiniest lifts I have ever seen, ride it to the fifth floor, and finally climb the spiral staircase to our apartment on the sixth floor. Since the lift was so small, only one person could fit in at a time.

    The mild mannered owner, Paul, was waiting for us, when we finally reached the summit, and showed us around, before handing us the key and leaving. We were finally on our own.

    The apartment itself, though small, was bigger than most hotel rooms in Paris. It even came with a tiny kitchen, dishwasher and washing machine. When we looked out the window, we could even see the Eiffel Tower and part of Sacre Coeur Cathedral. We are situated just north of the Seine, on the border of the famous Marais and Les Halles Regions. It will be an ideal base for our 2023 Paris experience.
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  • Enjoying An Almost Car Free Paris

    15 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    When we were last in Paris, back in 2019, I was planning to be back in 12 months' time. Of course I had no idea that a worldwide pandemic was going to change all that. It has taken four years for our plans to finally come to fruition, and we were both keen to see how Paris had changed in that time.

    The most obvious change that we could see immediately was that Paris now has far fewer cars than previously. During Covid, many kilometres of dedicated bike lanes were constructed throughout the city. This included making several high profile roads out of bounds for normal vehicular traffic.

    Although Covid is now largely behind us, the changes to Paris streets are permanent. It was refreshing to be able to walk along the famous Rue de Rivoli, sharing the road with only bicycles, scooters, taxis and fellow pedestrians.

    In spite of the initial resistance to this change, it is obvious that Parisians have embraced it enthusiastically. As I looked out at the sea of bikes riding along the streets, I could not help but think that Paris was looking more like Amsterdam.

    The main aim of our morning walk was to return to the familiar area of the L'ile de la Citie and the L'ile St Louis. These two large islands in the Seine are situated close to the heart of Paris, and are home to some of the most expensive real estate in the world.

    Back in 2013 Maggie stayed in an apartment on the L'ile St Louis for two weeks while the rest of the group rode the Loire, and she was keen to revisit the place she had grown to love. We were also keen to see the progress on the reconstruction of Notre Dame Cathedral.

    On our last visit in 2019, it was soon after the devastating fire, and repair work was only in its infancy. Four years later, the cathedral is still enclosed in a mammoth lattice of scaffolding. Although much has been achieved, there still appears a huge amount still remaining to be finished. It is really hard to see how it will be completed on schedule at the end of 2024.

    While we were walking I was having fun reading the names of shops along the way. The one which really stood out for being brilliantly creative was a patisserie with the magnificent name "She's Cake". Since their major product was a huge array of different cheesecakes, the name was a stroke of someone's genius.

    After returning to the apartment for lunch and a rest, we headed off again in the afternoon. This time we were wanting to return to the Place de Vosges, a small garden we had discovered on our previous visit. On the way there we made another chance discovery, when we walked into the Museum of Parisian History.

    This free museum was crammed with interesting exhibits from Paris over the centuries. We were enjoying ourselves until Maggie nearly created an ugly international incident by tripping over and falling into the priceless Louis XIV collection, almost destroying the whole thing. This earned a stern rebuke from the attending guard. Oh well, it was a thing that unfortunately happens to old people.

    We tried to walk away without causing more damage or attracting more unwanted attention. It was a little embarrassing, to say the least, but I am sure the damage can be easily repaired with a little superglue and duct tape.
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  • Walking our Legs Off in Paris

    16 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    My biggest concern before we arrived in Paris was just how mobile we would be. Maggie had been seriously compromised with a bad back, and walking any distance had been very hard for her. And yet the only way to truly explore Paris is on two legs. This was truly a dilemma.

    I don't know whether it is because her back is healing, or whether she is just running on pure adrenaline. Whatever the reason, I am relieved to report that we have been able to cover large portions of the city on foot. Although Maggie is still in some discomfort, she has still been able to walk a considerable distance. That is a huge relief for both of us.

    This morning we set off heading away from the river towards Les Halles, and managed to rediscover the place where we both had glasses made when we here in 2019. The place makes the claim that they can make your glasses "in 10 minutes or 10 Euro". And that is what they do.

    When we returned this morning, we found that the business had actually expanded to include the next couple of shops. It is now possible to watch the entire process happening before your eyes. First you do the eye test to determine your prescription, then you choose the frames, then from then on the whole process is automated. A short time later your new spectacles are ready ! Simple.

    We then wandered along the right bank of the river to the Louvre Museum, where we were surrounded by a whole tribe of gypsies, all trying to accost us with their bogus petitions. This scam has been going on for many years, and has resisted all attempts by the authorities to stamp it out. Fortunately they are not aggressive, and they generally are deterred by a firm "non".

    Our walk took us through the Tuileries Gardens and back onto the Rue de Rivoli. We followed it as far as the famous chocolate shop called "Angelina's". This place is regarded as a Paris institution, and always has a long queue of hopeful patrons trying to gain entry. We had already visited the shop a couple of times previously, and the last time we were there, we were both underwhelmed. We had other plans in store.

    Way back on the L'ile St Louis there is a tiny Salon de The, where we have made a habit of enjoying a quiet lunch every time we have been in Paris. So that is where we headed next. It was a long walk, but we made it in time for lunch.

    Maggie and I then separated to make our own ways back to our apartment, having another close look at the progress on Notre Dame. By the time I finally climbed the six floors to our room, my watch was telling me I had walked over 15,000 steps. My legs were telling me it had been many more.

    This really is a hectic, crazy, eccentric, enigmatic, confronting and wonderful city. With all its faults, I can never get tired of visiting.
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  • And Then There Were Four

    17 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Just a few short weeks ago, there were 27 Ghostriders taking part in our ride along the Moselle River from Koblenz to Saarburg. When that ride finished, the group started to disburse. Most headed off to Passau to ride the Danube from Passau to Vienna, another group of 8 went to Donaueschingen to begin a series of thee extended rides in central Europe, and a few others began their journey back to Australia.

    It is now late October, Europe has well and truly moved into the cooler time of the year and our long awaited adventure is drawing to a close. A few days ago, the remaining 8 Ghostriders took a train from Vermenton to Paris. The only challenge left was to survive the daily walks around the famous City of Light.

    For Gordon and Sue, their time in Paris was very short. They made their way directly to CDG Airport to catch their flight back. Or so they thought. Unfortunately, a cruel twist of fate saw their scheduled Cathay Pacific cancelled. What they then found themselves in was a travel nightmare.

    No longer able to fly on Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong, they were eventually shunted off onto an Air India flight to Delhi. This was definitely NOT on their travel wish list. After an horrific 40 hours of transit, they finally touched down in Melbourne.

    Two days later it was time for David and Carol to face the travel gauntlet. Fortunately for them, their flight was not cancelled, and they were able to take off on time. By the time I am writing this, they should be in the air, somewhere between Paris and Hong Kong.

    And so that leaves just four of our original contingent left on the continent. And we only have one full day left. Early on Thursday morning we will be starting our own international odyssey.

    But what a trip we have had. After the multiple postponements due to Covid, it is a little hard to believe that all the plans have actually been completed. It certainly was one of the most complex trips I have ever put together, and it is such a relief to look back over the past 9 weeks, secure in the knowledge that there were no huge stuff ups along the way.

    All that remains now is that interminable flight back to Australia. It is the price that must be paid for travelling to Europe.
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  • Last Day in Paris

    18 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We were faced with a dilemma. What do you do to fill your last day in Paris, not knowing when you will ever return ? The answer is surprisingly simple. You do just what you have spent every day doing - walking ! And that is what we did.

    This time we decided to spend more time on the left bank of the Seine. We had enjoyed many hours on previous trips exploring the narrow streets and eclectic shops in this region. On this visit, most of our walks had been on the right bank. It was an opportunity to even things up a little.

    We walked south, crossed the river and stopped to spend some time having a closer look at the mighty Notre Dame restoration works. Our walk then continued on to the left bank and slowly meandered eastwards.

    It is possible to walk endlessly in Paris, without having a definite destination in mind. It is just that sort of place. Although, on this trip, we were somewhat restricted due to Maggie's bad back, we still managed to walk quite a few kilometres on every day we were here.

    After we were both feeling tired, we started to make our way back to the apartment to tidy up and pack our bags for the last time. When I get back to Australia, I will add up the total number of different hotels we stayed in during this trip. I do know that the repetitive ritual of packing every morning to move to a new location is a very tiring one.

    In many respects, it is a more demanding exercise than the daily ride. Only people who have participated in one of previous cycling trips will appreciate just how demanding they can be. These trips are not intended to be easy. I know they are challenging in all sorts of ways, but the feeling of achievement at the end is unlike any other travel experience. I am so proud of each and every one of our participants for what they have accomplished over the past 9 weeks. I am sure it will something they will never forget.

    Tomorrow morning we face the long journey home. That is the final challenge and it is always an occasion for relief mixed with sadness that it has all come to an end. All the other arrangements have gone so well, I just hope that the return trip will go just as well.
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  • The Longest, Last Day

    21 de octubre de 2023, Australia

    Most days have only 24 hours. However some days are different. When you are making the long journey half way round the world, from Europe back to Australia, time takes on a different dimension. Clocks and watches behave differently, requiring them to be set and reset multiple times. I am not sure how many hours the past day had in it, but I know it was a lot more than 24.

    It all began at 5 am in our apartment in Paris. That is when the alarm went off, to begin the long series of events that would culminate in the final end to our 2023 Europe Cycling Adventure.

    The next hour was spent having breakfast and tidying up the place. Then it was time to try to find the best way of packing all our possessions into the available luggage space. The final step was to take a few pictures of the place, to prove we hadn't left it trashed.

    Although our plane was not scheduled to depart until a little after noon, we could see no point in sitting in the apartment, just watching the clock go around. It would be far more interesting at the airport.

    The first challenge was to get our mountain of luggage down the narrow, winding staircase, and then into the tiny elevator for the other five stories down to the ground floor. It wasn't easy, especially since I had to do most of the lifting by myself.

    Some considerable time later, we were standing on the footpath on the Boulevard de Sebastapol. It was still pitch dark at 7.30 am, and we felt somewhat vulnerable as we stared into the darkness.

    Our plan was to walk about 800 meters to the nearest taxi stand to catch a taxi to the airport, however our transport arrived much earlier than that. Vacant taxis are recognised by the green light on their roof, and we had only walked a short distance when I noticed a familar green light coming down the street toward us.

    "Quick, go and hail it", I told Maggie. So that is what she did. It was almost too easy to be true. We quickly agreed on a price to get us to the airport, and were soon comfortably gliding through the pre dawn streets of Paris.

    The trip to the airport took less than 30 minutes, aided by the fact that the driver did not seem to feel any compulsion to observe the posted speed limits along the way. Paris is a bit like that.

    By the time we were deposited safely at Terminal One, the sky was just beginning to lighten. We found our way to the Cathay Pacific check in desk and were soon watching our luggage disappear onto the conveyor belt. It was only then that the check in lady realised that she had not put the full complement of luggage labels on Maggie's suitcase. She lunged after it, but it was already too late. It had already been swallowed up by the machinery. She shrugged and tried to assure us that it would "probably be OK anyway".

    We wandered off further into the terminal, wandering if the luggage would make the same journey we were about to begin, or whether it would head off on its own adventure to somewhere else entirely different.

    The next step was to pass through Immigration and security. The first step was easy, but the second was a little more stressful. After passing through the XRAY scanner, my carry one bag was shunted off out of the regular queue for special attention. The staff said they wanted to search it for suspicious items. In a quavering voice, I told them that it was OK, but I think my blood pressure and pulse rate immediately stepped up by several levels.

    After fossicking through my possessions and scanning for drugs, they decided that I was not an elderly terrorist drug dealer after all, and I was finally reunited with my case and allowed to leave. We then had a couple of hours to wait until our flight was ready to leave for Hong Kong. I needed that time to buy a coffee and regain my composure.

    Fortunately the flight departed on time. We did not have to take an alternative route through India (like Gordon and Sue had to a few day's earlier). What followed next was twelve and a half hours of meandering flight paths (trying to skirt around the growing number of conflict zones in this part of the world), until we finally landed in Hong Kong just as dawn was breaking.

    We then had another 4 hours transit time in Hong Kong, before our flight to Melbourne was due to take off. We did not mind at all. On the outward flight we almost had no time between flights, and had to literally run from plane to plane to make the connection.

    At the airport in Paris we had been joined by Greg and Andrea, who were the only other remaining members of our group. At least we had some familiar faces to share the long journey with.

    The final leg of the journey was the nine hour flight from Hong Kong to Melbourne. Although we still had a long way to travel, we actually felt that we were almost in our own neighborhood at this time.

    The flight touched down in Melbourne just before midnight on Friday night, but we were still not quite home yet. We still had to get from Tullamarine to our homes. Before leaving Australia we had prebooked a shuttle car to drive the four of us to our homes. We were relieved that the driver was waiting for us when we arrived. We were even more relieved when we saw our familiar luggage finally appear on the luggage carousel. We were on the home straight.

    At this hour of the night, the freeways were almost empty, and the drive home was trouble free. At about 2 am, we were standing outside our own home. Our journey was finally complete. It had been one of the most most complex trips I had ever put together, but now I could rest easy that every detail had gone exactly according to plan. Now I could finally relax, secure in the knowledge that "all the chickens were now safely back in the hen house".

    Ahead lies a few quiet days of rest and recovery. We have earned them.
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  • An Unwanted Postcript

    1 de noviembre de 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Everyone accepts that it is normal to experience jetlag after returning home from Europe. That feeling of lethargy and disturbed sleep can continue for a week or more after returning home. And that is why I did not worry too much when I started to feel unwell.

    It all started on Sunday evening. At first I found that I could not get warm. My legs started to ache and my body was shaking. Now that was something new. The only way that I could escape the chills was to retreat to bed and hide under the doona. Maybe it would all be better in the morning.

    After a very disturbed sleep, I actually felt worse in the morning. It was then that another thought started to occur to me. Was it possible that I had caught the dreaded Covid 19? Although I had somehow managed to dodge it for the past three years, I knew that sooner or later, it would probably catch up with me.

    It was time to unbox my last remaining RAT test package and see what it told me. It did not take long. Although you are meant to wait 15 minutes before examining the test tile, the result was clearly evident within 2 minutes. I had joined the Covid Club.

    I was instructed to call the nearest respiratory clinic for advice. After answering a few questions, I was issued with an electronic script for anti-viral medication. This was forwarded to the local chemist, and a couple of hours later, the medication was delivered to my doorstep.

    The next five days were a bit of a blur. Apart from a fever, the other symptoms were a cough, sore throat and extreme lack of energy. At least I could be grateful that it did not happen while I was still travelling. If I had to suffer, there was no better place to do it than in my own home.

    Five days after the first RAT test, I decided to try it again. The result was still a strong positive. That meant a few more days in isolation, but at least I was starting to regain some of my energy again.

    A couple of days later, another RAT test finally showed the result I was hoping. There was no sign of the dreaded line. I was no longer Covid positive.

    The following day I ventured out of the house for one of my favourite walks. Although I was more fatigued than usual, it was a great feeling to be returning to normality. It will still be a few more days before I have the stamina to resume riding, but at least I think the worst is now clearly behind me.
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    Fin del viaje
    21 de octubre de 2023