Vietnam 2023

December 2023 - January 2024
A 24-day adventure by Tracey Read more
  • 25footprints
  • 2countries
  • 24days
  • 289photos
  • 5videos
  • 19.7kkilometers
  • 9.1kkilometers
  • 8.8kkilometers
  • 411kilometers
  • Rockhampton

    December 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Day of departure (edited 11pm)
    Have only forgotten 1 (make that about 6 things), that I can think of 30min in.🥴
    Bag is under weight and only 1, (make that 4) delays out of Rocky, glad I changed my flight to an earlier one.
    But I wouldn’t have run into Karyn Olive at the airport!! So silver lining.
    About to board in Brisbane, let the fun begin.
    Read more

  • Day 1

    Hanoi Day 1

    December 22, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    I’m so glad I got my host to prebook a taxi for me, I picked the “Welcome Tracey” sign a mile away…too tired to focus, let alone manage the throng of taxi touts.
    Saigon airport a blur …. Passport and visa check (apparently legit - didn’t look it!), clear customs, collect bag, walk a couple of 100ms to domestic airport and do it all again in reverse. So tired….I checked in and then got in another cue thinking I was going to go through security, only to realise that I was in another cue to check in.
    Viet Jet, sells everything as an add on - 3 levels of seating, (I paid for Deluxe, which felt and looked like economy) food, weight of your bags. I’m sure I didn’t buy food because of the time, but sure enough I was woken up to be given food….and the same thing as well.
    The taxi ride was worth every one of the $19, cheaper than getting from my place to the airport. Dodging bikes, trucks, buses, people on scooters in the thousands and every one beeping their horns.

    The tea house is a little sanctuary in the middle of a busy area near the Temple of Literature which I’ll visit tomorrow.
    After a quick tea ceremony while, I waited for the room to be ready, then a dash down the street with Vue to replace my phone charger. I had a hot shower and crashed for an hour or two just so I could focus.

    Time to explore the neighbourhood, so went for a walk around the block, down an alley, up a street and back again and found the Chicken Pho that Vue recommended. So that was dinner, i called in to kill some time to the tea house as I was going back to the temple for the night tour, but I have started to fade and so I am ready for bed.
    It’s 6.07pm
    Read more

  • Day 2–6

    Hanoi Day 2

    December 23, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I wandered out for breakfast and found my first and last traditional Vietnamese coffee and a pastry it seems silly but the French left a bit of an impression with the pastries. There are coffee cafes everywhere and elaborate cake shops.

    After a detour back to the Tea House to load up with the supplies for the day I headed off towards the Ho Chi Minh Museum and Mausoleum but I ran into Blondie and Tall Guy from the flight over and I invited myself along to the Lotte observation deck which is on top of an enormous shopping centre. Jack an engineer, has a thing for tall buildings. They are both from Brisbane and he is heading up to Rocky in the New Year to visit a friend who is working on the Ring Road. He shared some interesting details about the engineering of sky scrapers, over the cocktail included with entry at 11 o’clock in the morning at a table at the window. Nice couple. Pity it was so hazy.

    There was a supermarket at the bottom of the building so we went for a stroll through the supermarket - Blondie needed band aids for blisters - as it’s always fascinating to see what’s on offer. I lost (or got ditched by) my new friends Jack and Annalise and so I continued to my intended destination which was nearby. I’m sure I’ll run into them again Irish, the engineer (Bne airport) is here for three days so I’m sure I’ll run into him and then there’s Pilates - she had a yoga mat strapped to her carry on! Chatted with her in the loo at the airport in Ho Chi Minh. We’ll see.…

    Google maps led me through a series of very smelly back alleys, I was looking for and found a historic sight (which was closed!) but a nice man at a local pagoda across the road let me in there for a quick look around. Not a wasted side trip, and a treat for the senses.

    The Mausoleum was closed by the time I got there, as was the museum. Seems many things are closed between 11:30 & 1:30. Emergency at this point when doing a recon of the WC, discovered no toilet paper, and I recognised the familiar goings on in the belly - I am out of practice, what idiot goes out without toilet paper, in a developing country even in 2023.

    Disaster averted and when I re-emerged the Museum was open so - silver lining. His story is fascinating and even though only 1/10th was translated to English, the images were amazing. A well documented and preserved life. He is quiet the national hero and regarded education with singular importance to improve Vietnam and the quality of life for all Vietnamese.

    Next stop was the One Pillar Pagoda and then back to the tea house for a cup of tea and some down time close to a toilet, before dinner.

    It’s been 48 hrs and I have turned in to a human blender, could it be the airport water fountain (again - I am out of practice! I could blame the sleep deprivation) or the cream based coffee on an empty stomach this morning. Going to have to find a Starbucks for a lactose free or oat milk flat white I think 🤣.

    Temperature drops sharply from 4pm, so glad I called back for more layers. Dinner at KOTO, I will be back in bed early tonight I think.

    Dinner was a very special a la carte experience. Started by a Vietnamese Australian - https://www.koto.com.au/about-koto. All I remember was that it was duck and mango - delicious and then I had flambé banana and coconut ice cream for dessert. I bought a toiletry bag made from recycled plastics by the deaf community. I will find other SE projects to support.

    It’s 13’ outside - feels like 3’ in my room - all tucked up in bed and it’s 8.07pm
    Late night!!
    Read more

  • Day 3

    Hanoi Day 3

    December 24, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Awake from 3am, will have to push through tonight and stay awake for as long as I can. The tea house is lovely and I sat with Trang (host) and drank a dozen thimble sized cups of tea this afternoon as we talked. But the bed is ROCK hard and the princess in me is struggling!

    I got to listen to my very close neighbour do his morning ritual this morning. First his singing bowl meditation, and then the daily cleanse. Which is a cacophony of coughing, snorting and throat clearing and then he closed with a little more singing bowl. I wonder if tomorrow will be the same. I slept through yesterdays!

    After a delicious bowl of Pho at my local, which they must watch with delight, as I struggle to make my numb fingers manage the chopsticks. Takes me half the bowl for brain and fingers to connect and I still manage to have a shower of broth all around the bowl. It’s so good though, this morning I added an egg to poach in the broth.

    Detour back to room and then to meet Nguyen for my morning adventure. And then whilst I waited for him, I realised how cold I was and whipped home for more clothes. Glad I did.

    Nguyen is a photographer I found that takes you out and about to the spots you want to see and takes photos of you there. I had asked him before hand if he’d help me get reacquainted with my SLR, that hasn’t been out of the cupboard in 3 years and yes we did that too, but he was also really good at setting me up for photos. I felt like I should have had hello kitty ears on, peace fingers raised and a pout! He got the hint pretty quick that I wasn’t terribly fussed about that. I’ll get the photos in a couple of days, at least there’ll be some photos with me in them I guess. He was great to chat too and we had a great nearly 4hr, 2hr session.

    I asked him about Christmas and New Year - he said it was just for us! Meaning the tourists … I really wish they (every non Christian country in the world) wouldn’t, and I told him that. It’s death by Christmas carol and tacky plastic Christmas decorations, and we get enough of that at home. He said “Sadly yes but we must do it for the others.”

    A much better coffee experience with a local before continuing to wander. He showed me a part of train street that is the best place to be without the tourists and had me promising to be up early to get there without the throngs of people. The IG famous section is now local access only and guarded after 1 too many accidents between tourists/influencer and train.

    At the end of our morning, he offered me two routes back to the tea house. “That way is to the end of the block turn right and straight ahead. This way is more adventurous.” as he pointed me in the general direction of home down some alley ways. Well of course off I went, not a tourist in sight. The street view with all its busyness vanishes pretty quick when you move into the centre of the block down these alley ways. It’s quiet and clean and not a bit of greenery, until you see into some courtyards or looking up, you see pots and plants attached to anything and everything scaling the walls and high fences. Occasionally you’ll get a peak into the first floor of a home- it’s like a mud room, shoes, motorbikes, storage, stuff, and then there might also be a tv, couch and a snoozing pop.

    Trang, after the thimbles of tea, sent me off with vague directions for an 8 min walk for lunch, but I couldn’t bring myself to commit, so went up the street and zigged and zagged and found a little stall in another alleyway for some diy rice paper rolls. The very helpful maître de made me the first one and the cook waited for the thumbs up before he went back to his 8 little frypans on the go making the bean sprout pancakes. Delish.

    Lazy afternoon reading and planning and now after a short walk down the street for a bowl of steaming veggies and rice in a delicious coconut cream sauce, I’m out.
    It’s 8.35.
    Read more

  • Day 4

    Hanoi - Day 4

    December 25, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Merry Christmas

    Up bright and early to find ..another delicious accident for breakfast. I have given up trying to remember what they are. Just smile point 1 finger and yes please.
    Then sit back and enjoy the show. This morning I was entertained by a gaggle of giggling grannies as breakfast was put together.

    To the Temple of Literature finally, no bus loads of kids to contend with this morning and then as I was walking to the meeting point for the “Street Food Tour”, decided I could swing past the Hanoi Hilton - Ha Lo prison as it was on the way. I could have easily wandered a bit longer there, the audio tour was very good. Not much of the original structure left there unfortunately but enough to see the horrific conditions they endured or survived. The cement slabs they were shackled too, slanted away from their feet, so they couldn’t lay down for long as the blood would go to their heads and they’d get all swollen with fluid. Also meant they were wet most of the time in urine - theirs and others. The horrific treatment of the prisoners only galvanised the revolution. They said that the prison was the training ground and head quarters for it.

    Google maps takes all the fun out of travelling … no maps, now getting lost, no wrong turns. Just every couple of blocks check your still walking in the right direction, and in my case when starting out, turning in a full circle to make sure I’m facing the right way first 😆

    Only one other in the group a tall New Yorker who lays ass-fault for 8 months of the year from 7pm-5am in downtown Manhattan and then travels for the other 4. He was a pretty typical American tourist, new his life story and the 91 countries he’s visited but not one question was directed at me. He kept stopping our guide, Chip, so she could check on the cost of a kg of cinnamon and we heard repeatedly about why he needed to take a kg of cinnamon home with him.

    He was genuinely surprised every time I countered one of his travel stories with one of my own. He stays at backpackers and went on about how inconsiderate some are, I shared my opinion about the 3 worst nationalities … South African, Israeli and Americans. He agreed! I said most Americans don’t know how to be out in the world. He agree, all I could do to not laugh. From here he goes back to New York for 4 days and then goes to India, bit stupid if you ask me, considering he’s almost there.

    We did agree on how shite Trip Advisor is these days, not about advice at all, just selling and kick backs. Eg. The Street Food Tour.

    If it had been called “Hip Vietnamese Eats” it would have been more accurate. Our guide a Uni student took us to funky eating places - really good Banh Mi at her favourite place. Dry Pho and fresh spring rolls wrapped in noodle at another family owned restaurant where we sat on the balcony of the second floor, from there we sent to another cool spot near the lake climbed up some skinny stairs and made our own fresh spring rolls. They don’t wet the wrappers, so they’re not the same as the ones we can get.

    Desert next - I was already about to explode - coconut yogurt, coconut bubbles and beetle leaf jelly with a coffee.

    Chip & Patrick went off to get cinnamon and left me then, and I just happened to google up a spa, a few meters away where I spent the next to hours with a torturous reflexology on my feet, massage and facial for $50. Oh and that included lunch, she then tells me, so I’ve come home with dinner.

    I was in the Old Quarter so, figured I would visit one of the sights The Huc Bridge on Hoan Kiem Lake. Gave mum a guided tour and pointed out some sights to be seen through the traffic on the way.

    This is where it went to shit…

    I was doing all the things, fending off a couple of determined hawkers, trying to figure out where the ticket booth was and looking into the sun and I tripped up the step, that was 2 inches higher than I expected and down I went. Don’t know how I managed it but I have a corked right quad and a massive big bruise coming up on my left shin … there was only 1 step. I was swamped by assistance, one guard declaring “Be Careful”, in very good English, I may not have been the first to get caught by that step. I bounced up declaring there was a “Trace Trap” there and all was well.

    By the time I got the ticket and got back to the guard, I was feeling it, hobbled around the pagoda, lit some incense and jumped in the first rickshaw home….paid an exorbitant amount for the ride, don’t even want to do the the math, but I guarantee he’ll be taking the rest of the year off. It would have been a 30 min walk.

    Fun ride home through crazy peak hour traffic, I’ve seen more tourists and tourists junk today than I have in the previous 3 days put together. Glad I’m not staying in the old quarter.

    So I’m back at the tea house. Leg is up, drinking white tea and eating Banh Cha Dua. I haven’t looked at it yet, I’ll save that for the shower later.
    Perfect timing for the trekking day after tomorrow!

    Still full from the lunch time tour, so I doubt that I will even venture out tonight, nothing to do and nowhere I need to be - just repack and be ready to go early tomorrow morning to Sapa and sleep.

    I had a look at the damage and ended up going down to the tea house girls and asking for ice. When I showed them, one rushed off to the chemist and brought back a patch to help with the swelling and some pain killers.
    Not going to be a restful sleep tonight 😞
    Read more

  • Day 5

    Hanoi ~ Sapa

    December 26, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After a long cold wait for the limousine taxi promised to collect me at 6:15 it arrived at 7:15 and away we went to Sapa. Couple of road side stops along the way, which are like little malls. I got chatting with a couple visiting from Singapore, both hairdressers, which was funny. They both said - it will grow! Cat weasel has really started to come into his own. The hair!

    We were also joking but not joking about our coughing and spluttering driver giving us Covid. 1 girl offered me a mask but I said - too late!! Her friend agreed. Fingers crossed.

    We arrived in Sapa about 2 o’clock and I found my Airbnb above a quaint little restaurant that only sells juices and smoothies (can’t imagine a roaring trade at 8’) and then set off exploring and looking for a hat for Catweasel.

    Sapa is a hard to get much of a handle on what is so special about it - it’s on the edge and in the middle of steep mountains and it was very hazy today. To get the view you need to be sitting on the balcony in a restaurant, of which there are plenty. It’s been touristed to death unfortunately.

    Dinner tonight came in a whole coconut and was delicious, unfortunately they won’t give you a hotpot for one and it was recommended as a must have. Being close to China, I’m sure it’s similar and watching the groups around me that were having it, it looked it. Mountains of greens, noodles, mushrooms, meat, vegetables and a steaming pot of stock. I’ll have to make some friends. A young Aust couple were next to me as I sat down, they had just finished their trek and were chatty, hard to not chat tables are an inch apart, and an older couple from Singapore after they left who were also just back from theirs, although they bailed half way. Both loved it.

    I’ll have to ask at the office what the evacuation process will be if I can’t walk far on this banged up leg. Had to put my legs up the wall after sitting down for 5 hours+ as it was swollen.

    Supposed to get quite warm over the next 2 days 14’. Got all the layers ready.
    Reverse cycle air conditioning in the bedroom a necessity - only have what we’d call a summer doona on the bed and tonight it is already 7’.
    I’ts 9pm.
    Read more

  • Day 5

    Sapa

    December 26, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Reverse cycle aircon and Netflix to bed last night … it’s a brave new world, exactly like
    everywhere else. 😢

    Up early and up the road for the trekkers set menu at a local, baguette, bacon, egg, banana and a late!
    Before the 5 minute walk around the corner to the Office
    of Sapa Sisters. I seem to be the only one prepared with what I want to carry with me as others are half unpacked in the luggage storage area.
    I’ve got clean undies and socks and the clothes I have on.

    So you can imagine the catastrophe that I averted when only 1 foot ended up in the muddy rice paddy. I had been watching where Sy put her feet and I knew before I put my foot down that where she had just stood was not going to work for me but momentum was already in charge. And in I slipped. Luckily, “granny in the gumboots”. My personal mobile shop caught me from behind. And with Sy from the front to set me right, I had only 1 muddy foot. I checked out all the other trekkers at lunch stops and I was not the only one. Sy tells me people fare much worse in the wet season,

    We walked and talked, and I continued to put Zuen’s hat back on each time she pulled it off. Sy is very chatty and does this full time 5 days a week, sometimes just day treks and sometimes for a night. With a baby strapped on it is a juggling act between her, husband and family to collect the baby from her at different times of the day.

    We did our best to skip the Homestay cafe/tea houses that were full of tourists and stopped in Loa Chai (fix spelling) for lunch.

    Granny in the Gumboots then pulled out her wares, telling me
    that if I bought something she could go home. So I did.

    All of the ladies make, dye and sew the things they sell. Her hands and fingernails were blue from the Indigo and when her hands weren’t busy saving me from falling over, and helping me down and over things, before scampering up the shortcuts to help me over the next bit, she was working strings of hemp.

    My banged up shin doesn’t like the jarring of going downhill and my corked thigh does not like the exertion of going up!! So after lunch I opted for the easier way to the farm stay. Which meant no tourists and through villages. Much nicer.

    Greeted by our host and thimble sized cups of green tea, Sy and I then compared stories about all “things” and the similarities are in all things. Youth crime, domestic violence, lack of respect to elders (and traditions) and the good things too sometimes.

    She shared the stories of generations, land transference, how divorce and even multiple wives (which is a return of old ways but a new trend) effects the lives of women-if they have children she and the kids must remain with the in-laws, and he can go off and remarry. If there are no kids she is cast out and can’t return to her own family.
    And with each generation the parcels of land gifted or inherited get smaller and smaller and usually to the boys of the family. For women to inherit, the previous generations would have to have been wealthy with plenty of land.

    A bit of yoga in the sun, and now sitting around the coals, trying to be warm and drying my shoes.

    Hostess is busy cooking a second trekker has arrived - he’s currently scrubbing both his shoes 🤣🤣 and Sy has gone off on a borrowed motor bike to the last village where we left the baby.

    Dinner was a feast of tofu, chicken, pork, vegetables, sticky rice and spring rolls. And after sitting on the tiny stools huddled around the coals for a little longer it was time to get under all the blankets in my thermals. Doona covers are velour, so moving was a bit difficult.
    Read more

  • Day 7

    Sapa ~ Hanoi

    December 28, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Village Home Stay
    Much up hill and down hill today … my ankle has gone blue (so I must have twisted my ankle as well or the patch worked … sort of … & sent the bruise and swelling somewhere else) and all leg and bum muscles were achy as I tried to get dressed under the doonas - 8’

    Very cold over night and with the 2 heavy velour quilts on top and my thermals as pjs it was tough going to roll over as I stuck like Velcro.
    I was toasty warm though and even threw off 1 blanket during the night for a little while.
    Singapore (other trekker) snored heavily, so having not brought my ear plugs had a book playing in my ears for most of the night. Gma in the curtained off section next to me also snored and Sy told me as we left that Gma said I snored a little too!!

    After a breakfast of copious pancakes Singapore and a new guide (original arrived to hand over to a replacement as her son was sick), took off to catch the bus back so he could start his 2 day trek to the Fransipan summit and we set off for a few more hours of walking trying to stay away from the big groups of tourists.

    The buffalo are like mountain goats and perch precariously on steep slopes just off the trail. Don’t even realise they’re there until you hear the rustle or see a tourist taking a photo.

    Sy was telling me she often has city tourists that have never seen a buffalo pat and when they’re partly dry on the outside they think they’re a rock and will stand on it. For some people and with some of the pats we’ve seen today that would be midcalf in steaming dung. She said that she sometimes forgets to tell the people they are not rocks, but I’m sure it must be hilarious when it’s an annoying person. She wouldn’t have admitted that. Standing joke today - watch out for the rocks.

    Lunch was delish and a distraction, chicken fried rice while watching the ducks on the rice paddies below and a young woman with babe on her back round up her ducks to take them home, no easy feat as she had to stick to the edges of the rice paddies and the ducks were not compliant.

    We waited for Zuyen to be delivered back to Sy and then I hopped on the back of a motorbike with her brother in law and her father took Sy and the baby.

    Glad I thought ahead and put all my layers on again. Freeeezing! Lucky it was only 30 min

    With an hour before the Limousine I jumped in an electric cart (mad driver) which dropped me at the Sapa market, it was only a quick look as most of the stalls were closed for lunch.

    The fresh food and meat section were open as were a couple of restaurants and herb and tea stalls. I’ve cleaned up the snacks I had on board so bought a bag of dried mango.

    A more sedate drive back, found a coffee and then back to the Office to wait and charge my phone. Down side of relying on it, can’t let it go flat. And that’s where the address of the accom is.

    The offer of something is to be expected so shared some pomelo and tiny green apples, that were like a Nashi but one seed like a plum. Both very nice.

    Limousine arrived and I was put in the back row (had the front seat coming up). I knew something was up, lots of discussion and gestures and a phone call and we hadn’t gone 5 minutes before we pulled over and I was moved into the front seat - I have clearly paid (unknowingly) for VIP treatment. Which may have been an extra $5, so worth it, to be delivered to my next home
    away from home. I feel for the guide who is now sitting where I was as there was a big hard lump that I had just configured one of the provided blankets over.

    5+ hrs to Hanoi. I pulled out my travel pillow, might need it with all the snoring from last night.

    A 10’ temperature difference between Sapa and Hanoi, I’m looking forward to not being cold!

    On the way up I noticed some road workers, full high viz, with hard hats pointing the directions to a small detour, wasn’t until we got closer that I realised they were mannequins. Have been watching for them so I could get a photo, but we just passed them and I was too slow! Bloody funny though. Especially the hard hats!

    When I dug out my travelling gear, buried in the back of the cupboard, I was impressed that these pants still fit - I bought them in Nepal I think. I also remembered that there was something about these pants, but I couldn’t recall what it was. After a few hours I remembered - the zip doesn’t stay up. So for 2 days, I’ve been walking around with my fly undone, (gave up doing it up) thankfully enough layers that it would be hard to notice, but I also started today with my shirt on inside out. That’s what happens when you get dressed in bed. If I remember I’ll get the bloody zip changed with a tailor while I’m here!! Or this will no doubt happen again somewhere.

    Delivered to my accom, but everyone was so helpful they kept shooing me down the street, even when I showed them it was number 9. Long past it when I figured it out and pretty much went back to where I’d been dropped off.

    My room is on the street, so ear plugs tonight, bed rock hard, shower started great but went cold, there’s a washing machine here somewhere and a free breakfast.

    Had a Banh Bo at last stop so that’ll do.
    It’s 9.08 & 20’ yayyyy!
    Read more

  • Day 8

    Hanoi

    December 29, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Noisey night, between the street outside and the family in the kitchen inside, the creature that landed not so quietly on the fire escape outside my window and the horns that started at 4, I eventually put in the ear plugs and slept through till almost 8.

    A day of house keeping. I did a load of washing, and jumped on a Grab bike and went out to an enormous shopping centre to buy a camp mattress. Found a Starbucks, got my nails done and a hair wash and dry.

    The chat back and forth through GT, was something like … worst hair cut ever recently, your hair is natural right?, yes, too lazy to dye it and curls are out of control. That got a laugh!

    Back on a Grab to the Homestay, and found the correct place to get on the train to Hue in a few days, and a tailor across the road to fix the zip on my pants 30000 dng, less than a packet of m&ms.

    Faffed about and a late lunch, and then got a message that the cruise tomorrow had been cancelled! Bastidos! Bloody dodgy - Trip Advisor used to be good, now they’re rubbish.

    So started scrambling for something to fill a few days, with no luck and time. So jumped on another Grab to collect my ticket for the Water Puppets.

    Hooked up with an English mum and son, who were also picking up their tickets and ended up wandering off for a quick snack and a beer and accidentally found a brilliant restaurant over looking the lake.

    Water puppets were great, and very clever. Show went for an hour. We wandered out into a very quiet street, maybe closed now in preparation for New Year. As I walked home I went past where I fell up the step, definitely only one step…so god knows what I did.

    Walked home and then found dinner up the street - best meal so far. My own little bbq plate and all the things to go on it. Fantastic - for 150,000 dng.

    I think I’m sorted for tomorrow, I’ve booked a resort at Cat Ba island and will arrange a day cruise or something when I get there.

    Now just have to get there, with a phone that won’t charge because there’s water in it - or so it says!!
    It’s 10:45 & 20’
    Read more

  • Day 9–11

    Hanoi to Cat Ba Island

    December 30, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Having pulled together a last minute plan, late at night I booked a resort for 3 nights (inclusive of last night) instead of 2 - they assured me at 11pm that they’ll modify the booking when I get there. And a seat on the Cat Ba Express!!
    After repacking and the worst feed thus far - young host in charge of breakfast was more worried about being unable to unlock her phone.. after the offer of 3 microwaved (for too long) pieces of bread, 4 slices of cucumber and a fried egg, I asked for another egg and turned the stale bread into French toast. She had not unlocked her phone by the time I left!
    Should have eaten in the street.

    Another Grab, this time a car to take me to the bus pick up. I hadn’t had an email confirmation, so I wasn’t confident that it would go well and sure enough - no booking and the bus full, but the young woman was marvellous and got me another bus, leaving at the same time.

    Roads are mad busy, even the young guy that stood with me waiting for the bus said so.

    I grabbed a couple of Vietnamese donuts on the way.
    Delicious.

    The bus eventually came and was of course on the furtherest side of the road. He suggested - just go slow and we melted into the flow of traffic and crossed to the bus.

    This is what they must call a sleeper bus. Had to put my shoes in a plastic bag as I got on. The seats fully recline with a section for your feet that is under the seat in front. My seat back won’t stay up, so I’m propped up on my day pack. Which is not comfortable, but the bus is full, so …

    Eventually reclined and lulled to sleep by the drone of the engine under me. I did catch up to the other bus at the speed boat and transferred to a VIP bus for the rest of the way. Chatting to an American couple at the office and then sat with her on the bus. Gorgeous curly grey hair!!

    Dropped close to the hotel and check in simple, room flash, can’t wait for the shower and then off for a walk to explore the town. Kept walking until I found the local Cat Ba, it’s not far away. Wandered through the local market and then back to put my throbbing leg up. There was a schools presentation having the rehearsal on the water front.

    Up to the roof top bar on the 17th floor for a G&T until the cold and hunger sent me off to find dinner.

    I’d already spied the restaurant on my walk, and happened to be the recommendation from a young local guy on the bus. I was the only tourist there! Grilled oysters, steamed whole crab and a pile of garlic buttered prawns. No cutlery to be had!

    I finally got confirmation over dinner of the day trip I found, that isn’t with 100’s of others, so that’s a relief. Would have hated to get here and be able to do nothing. Still lots of tourists even though it’s the off season. Hate to be here in the peak season.

    Lots of development happening, and at the same time, closed restaurants and deserted hotels? Especially in the back streets.

    A wander to an ATM, an icecream from the Vinimart, a few numbers at the school presentation before the cold and throbbing appendage sent me homeward.

    Out all day tomorrow and have been told to pack my swimmers! Yea
    It’s 19’, but forecasted to be 24 and sunny 🌞 tomorrow. Fingers crossed
    Read more