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Vietnam 2023
  • Tracey Bienek

Vietnam 2023

Traceyによる24日間のアドベンチャー もっと詳しく
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  • 旅行の開始
    2023年12月22日
    Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者

    Rockhampton

    2023年12月21日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Day of departure (edited 11pm)
    Have only forgotten 1 (make that about 6 things), that I can think of 30min in.🥴
    Bag is under weight and only 1, (make that 4) delays out of Rocky, glad I changed my flight to an earlier one.
    But I wouldn’t have run into Karyn Olive at the airport!! So silver lining.
    About to board in Brisbane, let the fun begin.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Entrance to the Temple of LiteratureThese are pop up cards1Flower stall on 2 wheels. He was lighting a smoke and talking on his phone at the same time.Tea House - Home for the next few daysChicken Pho - yummo

    Hanoi Day 1

    2023年12月22日, ベトナム ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    I’m so glad I got my host to prebook a taxi for me, I picked the “Welcome Tracey” sign a mile away…too tired to focus, let alone manage the throng of taxi touts.
    Saigon airport a blur …. Passport and visa check (apparently legit - didn’t look it!), clear customs, collect bag, walk a couple of 100ms to domestic airport and do it all again in reverse. So tired….I checked in and then got in another cue thinking I was going to go through security, only to realise that I was in another cue to check in.
    Viet Jet, sells everything as an add on - 3 levels of seating, (I paid for Deluxe, which felt and looked like economy) food, weight of your bags. I’m sure I didn’t buy food because of the time, but sure enough I was woken up to be given food….and the same thing as well.
    The taxi ride was worth every one of the $19, cheaper than getting from my place to the airport. Dodging bikes, trucks, buses, people on scooters in the thousands and every one beeping their horns.

    The tea house is a little sanctuary in the middle of a busy area near the Temple of Literature which I’ll visit tomorrow.
    After a quick tea ceremony while, I waited for the room to be ready, then a dash down the street with Vue to replace my phone charger. I had a hot shower and crashed for an hour or two just so I could focus.

    Time to explore the neighbourhood, so went for a walk around the block, down an alley, up a street and back again and found the Chicken Pho that Vue recommended. So that was dinner, i called in to kill some time to the tea house as I was going back to the temple for the night tour, but I have started to fade and so I am ready for bed.
    It’s 6.07pm    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    A school group on the way to the Temple of Literature- note the rat bag with the sign.
    Super skinny buildings gave bang for buck. Realestate a premium, so up was the only option.There are all sorts of "Trace traps". So far havent been caught in any!There isn't anything you can't buy.The Lotte Tower - drove past this on the way from the airport.Just for those with a fear of heights.Live fish for sale at the Super Market. Scaled and gutted for you as well.Cafe culture...i forgot to pay and the young guy chased me down the street!Victory Museum - remains of a B52Lunch - tip from waiter. Google lens translates! Who knew?!A bit about Ho Chi MinhGenuine Thousand Milers made from scrap tyresOne Pillar PagodaTook a video but its too longBeautiful white tea - wonder if they have anything for Delhi Belly.Social Enterprise - my favourite things.Not just an a la carte dinner but SE shopping too.

    Hanoi Day 2

    2023年12月23日〜27日, ベトナム ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I wandered out for breakfast and found my first and last traditional Vietnamese coffee and a pastry it seems silly but the French left a bit of an impression with the pastries. There are coffee cafes everywhere and elaborate cake shops.

    After a detour back to the Tea House to load up with the supplies for the day I headed off towards the Ho Chi Minh Museum and Mausoleum but I ran into Blondie and Tall Guy from the flight over and I invited myself along to the Lotte observation deck which is on top of an enormous shopping centre. Jack an engineer, has a thing for tall buildings. They are both from Brisbane and he is heading up to Rocky in the New Year to visit a friend who is working on the Ring Road. He shared some interesting details about the engineering of sky scrapers, over the cocktail included with entry at 11 o’clock in the morning at a table at the window. Nice couple. Pity it was so hazy.

    There was a supermarket at the bottom of the building so we went for a stroll through the supermarket - Blondie needed band aids for blisters - as it’s always fascinating to see what’s on offer. I lost (or got ditched by) my new friends Jack and Annalise and so I continued to my intended destination which was nearby. I’m sure I’ll run into them again Irish, the engineer (Bne airport) is here for three days so I’m sure I’ll run into him and then there’s Pilates - she had a yoga mat strapped to her carry on! Chatted with her in the loo at the airport in Ho Chi Minh. We’ll see.…

    Google maps led me through a series of very smelly back alleys, I was looking for and found a historic sight (which was closed!) but a nice man at a local pagoda across the road let me in there for a quick look around. Not a wasted side trip, and a treat for the senses.

    The Mausoleum was closed by the time I got there, as was the museum. Seems many things are closed between 11:30 & 1:30. Emergency at this point when doing a recon of the WC, discovered no toilet paper, and I recognised the familiar goings on in the belly - I am out of practice, what idiot goes out without toilet paper, in a developing country even in 2023.

    Disaster averted and when I re-emerged the Museum was open so - silver lining. His story is fascinating and even though only 1/10th was translated to English, the images were amazing. A well documented and preserved life. He is quiet the national hero and regarded education with singular importance to improve Vietnam and the quality of life for all Vietnamese.

    Next stop was the One Pillar Pagoda and then back to the tea house for a cup of tea and some down time close to a toilet, before dinner.

    It’s been 48 hrs and I have turned in to a human blender, could it be the airport water fountain (again - I am out of practice! I could blame the sleep deprivation) or the cream based coffee on an empty stomach this morning. Going to have to find a Starbucks for a lactose free or oat milk flat white I think 🤣.

    Temperature drops sharply from 4pm, so glad I called back for more layers. Dinner at KOTO, I will be back in bed early tonight I think.

    Dinner was a very special a la carte experience. Started by a Vietnamese Australian - https://www.koto.com.au/about-koto. All I remember was that it was duck and mango - delicious and then I had flambé banana and coconut ice cream for dessert. I bought a toiletry bag made from recycled plastics by the deaf community. I will find other SE projects to support.

    It’s 13’ outside - feels like 3’ in my room - all tucked up in bed and it’s 8.07pm
    Late night!!    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Another school group heading into the Temple across the road.
    And out of nowhere i find a lake...Those slippery gutters are another Trace trap. So are the motorbikes, merchandise, and tiny stools.The kids on the motorbikes are a constant amusement.More skinny houses. Nguyen commented that most people dont see past the ground floor shops anymore.

    Hanoi Day 3

    2023年12月24日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Awake from 3am, will have to push through tonight and stay awake for as long as I can. The tea house is lovely and I sat with Trang (host) and drank a dozen thimble sized cups of tea this afternoon as we talked. But the bed is ROCK hard and the princess in me is struggling!

    I got to listen to my very close neighbour do his morning ritual this morning. First his singing bowl meditation, and then the daily cleanse. Which is a cacophony of coughing, snorting and throat clearing and then he closed with a little more singing bowl. I wonder if tomorrow will be the same. I slept through yesterdays!

    After a delicious bowl of Pho at my local, which they must watch with delight, as I struggle to make my numb fingers manage the chopsticks. Takes me half the bowl for brain and fingers to connect and I still manage to have a shower of broth all around the bowl. It’s so good though, this morning I added an egg to poach in the broth.

    Detour back to room and then to meet Nguyen for my morning adventure. And then whilst I waited for him, I realised how cold I was and whipped home for more clothes. Glad I did.

    Nguyen is a photographer I found that takes you out and about to the spots you want to see and takes photos of you there. I had asked him before hand if he’d help me get reacquainted with my SLR, that hasn’t been out of the cupboard in 3 years and yes we did that too, but he was also really good at setting me up for photos. I felt like I should have had hello kitty ears on, peace fingers raised and a pout! He got the hint pretty quick that I wasn’t terribly fussed about that. I’ll get the photos in a couple of days, at least there’ll be some photos with me in them I guess. He was great to chat too and we had a great nearly 4hr, 2hr session.

    I asked him about Christmas and New Year - he said it was just for us! Meaning the tourists … I really wish they (every non Christian country in the world) wouldn’t, and I told him that. It’s death by Christmas carol and tacky plastic Christmas decorations, and we get enough of that at home. He said “Sadly yes but we must do it for the others.”

    A much better coffee experience with a local before continuing to wander. He showed me a part of train street that is the best place to be without the tourists and had me promising to be up early to get there without the throngs of people. The IG famous section is now local access only and guarded after 1 too many accidents between tourists/influencer and train.

    At the end of our morning, he offered me two routes back to the tea house. “That way is to the end of the block turn right and straight ahead. This way is more adventurous.” as he pointed me in the general direction of home down some alley ways. Well of course off I went, not a tourist in sight. The street view with all its busyness vanishes pretty quick when you move into the centre of the block down these alley ways. It’s quiet and clean and not a bit of greenery, until you see into some courtyards or looking up, you see pots and plants attached to anything and everything scaling the walls and high fences. Occasionally you’ll get a peak into the first floor of a home- it’s like a mud room, shoes, motorbikes, storage, stuff, and then there might also be a tv, couch and a snoozing pop.

    Trang, after the thimbles of tea, sent me off with vague directions for an 8 min walk for lunch, but I couldn’t bring myself to commit, so went up the street and zigged and zagged and found a little stall in another alleyway for some diy rice paper rolls. The very helpful maître de made me the first one and the cook waited for the thumbs up before he went back to his 8 little frypans on the go making the bean sprout pancakes. Delish.

    Lazy afternoon reading and planning and now after a short walk down the street for a bowl of steaming veggies and rice in a delicious coconut cream sauce, I’m out.
    It’s 8.35.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Breakfast with the giggling grannies
    Temple of LiteratureTemple of LiteratureHoa Lo Prison - The Hanoi HiltonHoa Lo Prison - The Hanoi HiltonHoa Lo Prison - The Hanoi HiltonFirst stop on the food tour!! Very nice thoughDIY fresh spring follHoan Kiem Lake - Den Ngoc SonHoan Kiem Lake - Den Ngoc SonRickshaw home.

    Hanoi - Day 4

    2023年12月25日, ベトナム ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Merry Christmas

    Up bright and early to find ..another delicious accident for breakfast. I have given up trying to remember what they are. Just smile point 1 finger and yes please.
    Then sit back and enjoy the show. This morning I was entertained by a gaggle of giggling grannies as breakfast was put together.

    To the Temple of Literature finally, no bus loads of kids to contend with this morning and then as I was walking to the meeting point for the “Street Food Tour”, decided I could swing past the Hanoi Hilton - Ha Lo prison as it was on the way. I could have easily wandered a bit longer there, the audio tour was very good. Not much of the original structure left there unfortunately but enough to see the horrific conditions they endured or survived. The cement slabs they were shackled too, slanted away from their feet, so they couldn’t lay down for long as the blood would go to their heads and they’d get all swollen with fluid. Also meant they were wet most of the time in urine - theirs and others. The horrific treatment of the prisoners only galvanised the revolution. They said that the prison was the training ground and head quarters for it.

    Google maps takes all the fun out of travelling … no maps, now getting lost, no wrong turns. Just every couple of blocks check your still walking in the right direction, and in my case when starting out, turning in a full circle to make sure I’m facing the right way first 😆

    Only one other in the group a tall New Yorker who lays ass-fault for 8 months of the year from 7pm-5am in downtown Manhattan and then travels for the other 4. He was a pretty typical American tourist, new his life story and the 91 countries he’s visited but not one question was directed at me. He kept stopping our guide, Chip, so she could check on the cost of a kg of cinnamon and we heard repeatedly about why he needed to take a kg of cinnamon home with him.

    He was genuinely surprised every time I countered one of his travel stories with one of my own. He stays at backpackers and went on about how inconsiderate some are, I shared my opinion about the 3 worst nationalities … South African, Israeli and Americans. He agreed! I said most Americans don’t know how to be out in the world. He agree, all I could do to not laugh. From here he goes back to New York for 4 days and then goes to India, bit stupid if you ask me, considering he’s almost there.

    We did agree on how shite Trip Advisor is these days, not about advice at all, just selling and kick backs. Eg. The Street Food Tour.

    If it had been called “Hip Vietnamese Eats” it would have been more accurate. Our guide a Uni student took us to funky eating places - really good Banh Mi at her favourite place. Dry Pho and fresh spring rolls wrapped in noodle at another family owned restaurant where we sat on the balcony of the second floor, from there we sent to another cool spot near the lake climbed up some skinny stairs and made our own fresh spring rolls. They don’t wet the wrappers, so they’re not the same as the ones we can get.

    Desert next - I was already about to explode - coconut yogurt, coconut bubbles and beetle leaf jelly with a coffee.

    Chip & Patrick went off to get cinnamon and left me then, and I just happened to google up a spa, a few meters away where I spent the next to hours with a torturous reflexology on my feet, massage and facial for $50. Oh and that included lunch, she then tells me, so I’ve come home with dinner.

    I was in the Old Quarter so, figured I would visit one of the sights The Huc Bridge on Hoan Kiem Lake. Gave mum a guided tour and pointed out some sights to be seen through the traffic on the way.

    This is where it went to shit…

    I was doing all the things, fending off a couple of determined hawkers, trying to figure out where the ticket booth was and looking into the sun and I tripped up the step, that was 2 inches higher than I expected and down I went. Don’t know how I managed it but I have a corked right quad and a massive big bruise coming up on my left shin … there was only 1 step. I was swamped by assistance, one guard declaring “Be Careful”, in very good English, I may not have been the first to get caught by that step. I bounced up declaring there was a “Trace Trap” there and all was well.

    By the time I got the ticket and got back to the guard, I was feeling it, hobbled around the pagoda, lit some incense and jumped in the first rickshaw home….paid an exorbitant amount for the ride, don’t even want to do the the math, but I guarantee he’ll be taking the rest of the year off. It would have been a 30 min walk.

    Fun ride home through crazy peak hour traffic, I’ve seen more tourists and tourists junk today than I have in the previous 3 days put together. Glad I’m not staying in the old quarter.

    So I’m back at the tea house. Leg is up, drinking white tea and eating Banh Cha Dua. I haven’t looked at it yet, I’ll save that for the shower later.
    Perfect timing for the trekking day after tomorrow!

    Still full from the lunch time tour, so I doubt that I will even venture out tonight, nothing to do and nowhere I need to be - just repack and be ready to go early tomorrow morning to Sapa and sleep.

    I had a look at the damage and ended up going down to the tea house girls and asking for ice. When I showed them, one rushed off to the chemist and brought back a patch to help with the swelling and some pain killers.
    Not going to be a restful sleep tonight 😞    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者

    Hanoi ~ Sapa

    2023年12月26日, ベトナム ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After a long cold wait for the limousine taxi promised to collect me at 6:15 it arrived at 7:15 and away we went to Sapa. Couple of road side stops along the way, which are like little malls. I got chatting with a couple visiting from Singapore, both hairdressers, which was funny. They both said - it will grow! Cat weasel has really started to come into his own. The hair!

    We were also joking but not joking about our coughing and spluttering driver giving us Covid. 1 girl offered me a mask but I said - too late!! Her friend agreed. Fingers crossed.

    We arrived in Sapa about 2 o’clock and I found my Airbnb above a quaint little restaurant that only sells juices and smoothies (can’t imagine a roaring trade at 8’) and then set off exploring and looking for a hat for Catweasel.

    Sapa is a hard to get much of a handle on what is so special about it - it’s on the edge and in the middle of steep mountains and it was very hazy today. To get the view you need to be sitting on the balcony in a restaurant, of which there are plenty. It’s been touristed to death unfortunately.

    Dinner tonight came in a whole coconut and was delicious, unfortunately they won’t give you a hotpot for one and it was recommended as a must have. Being close to China, I’m sure it’s similar and watching the groups around me that were having it, it looked it. Mountains of greens, noodles, mushrooms, meat, vegetables and a steaming pot of stock. I’ll have to make some friends. A young Aust couple were next to me as I sat down, they had just finished their trek and were chatty, hard to not chat tables are an inch apart, and an older couple from Singapore after they left who were also just back from theirs, although they bailed half way. Both loved it.

    I’ll have to ask at the office what the evacuation process will be if I can’t walk far on this banged up leg. Had to put my legs up the wall after sitting down for 5 hours+ as it was swollen.

    Supposed to get quite warm over the next 2 days 14’. Got all the layers ready.
    Reverse cycle air conditioning in the bedroom a necessity - only have what we’d call a summer doona on the bed and tonight it is already 7’.
    I’ts 9pm.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Toasty, not aure ill be able to get back up of the little stool
    Been a long time since I've done thiaSy gave Zuyen a quick bum wash and then a roast over the fire begore bedWhile i sat with 4 graanues aroynd the coals.

    Sapa

    2023年12月26日, ベトナム ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Reverse cycle aircon and Netflix to bed last night … it’s a brave new world, exactly like
    everywhere else. 😢

    Up early and up the road for the trekkers set menu at a local, baguette, bacon, egg, banana and a late!
    Before the 5 minute walk around the corner to the Office
    of Sapa Sisters. I seem to be the only one prepared with what I want to carry with me as others are half unpacked in the luggage storage area.
    I’ve got clean undies and socks and the clothes I have on.

    So you can imagine the catastrophe that I averted when only 1 foot ended up in the muddy rice paddy. I had been watching where Sy put her feet and I knew before I put my foot down that where she had just stood was not going to work for me but momentum was already in charge. And in I slipped. Luckily, “granny in the gumboots”. My personal mobile shop caught me from behind. And with Sy from the front to set me right, I had only 1 muddy foot. I checked out all the other trekkers at lunch stops and I was not the only one. Sy tells me people fare much worse in the wet season,

    We walked and talked, and I continued to put Zuen’s hat back on each time she pulled it off. Sy is very chatty and does this full time 5 days a week, sometimes just day treks and sometimes for a night. With a baby strapped on it is a juggling act between her, husband and family to collect the baby from her at different times of the day.

    We did our best to skip the Homestay cafe/tea houses that were full of tourists and stopped in Loa Chai (fix spelling) for lunch.

    Granny in the Gumboots then pulled out her wares, telling me
    that if I bought something she could go home. So I did.

    All of the ladies make, dye and sew the things they sell. Her hands and fingernails were blue from the Indigo and when her hands weren’t busy saving me from falling over, and helping me down and over things, before scampering up the shortcuts to help me over the next bit, she was working strings of hemp.

    My banged up shin doesn’t like the jarring of going downhill and my corked thigh does not like the exertion of going up!! So after lunch I opted for the easier way to the farm stay. Which meant no tourists and through villages. Much nicer.

    Greeted by our host and thimble sized cups of green tea, Sy and I then compared stories about all “things” and the similarities are in all things. Youth crime, domestic violence, lack of respect to elders (and traditions) and the good things too sometimes.

    She shared the stories of generations, land transference, how divorce and even multiple wives (which is a return of old ways but a new trend) effects the lives of women-if they have children she and the kids must remain with the in-laws, and he can go off and remarry. If there are no kids she is cast out and can’t return to her own family.
    And with each generation the parcels of land gifted or inherited get smaller and smaller and usually to the boys of the family. For women to inherit, the previous generations would have to have been wealthy with plenty of land.

    A bit of yoga in the sun, and now sitting around the coals, trying to be warm and drying my shoes.

    Hostess is busy cooking a second trekker has arrived - he’s currently scrubbing both his shoes 🤣🤣 and Sy has gone off on a borrowed motor bike to the last village where we left the baby.

    Dinner was a feast of tofu, chicken, pork, vegetables, sticky rice and spring rolls. And after sitting on the tiny stools huddled around the coals for a little longer it was time to get under all the blankets in my thermals. Doona covers are velour, so moving was a bit difficult.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Living area, note vintage tv and dvd player. Probably not used in years, but what to do with it?
    KitchenMy space for the nightWashing and washing up spaceWith many guests need many sizes of sandals. Note the toilet & bathroom sandals at the doorsBBQ feet before putting on our shoesBamboo forest - man that was steep!Sy is from the Black Hmong tribeBaby buffalo, these will be just old enough to survive the winterThey use the whole banana plant. This will become pig foodRounding up ducks, checking your phone and balancing ..impressive

    Sapa ~ Hanoi

    2023年12月28日, ベトナム ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Village Home Stay
    Much up hill and down hill today … my ankle has gone blue (so I must have twisted my ankle as well or the patch worked … sort of … & sent the bruise and swelling somewhere else) and all leg and bum muscles were achy as I tried to get dressed under the doonas - 8’

    Very cold over night and with the 2 heavy velour quilts on top and my thermals as pjs it was tough going to roll over as I stuck like Velcro.
    I was toasty warm though and even threw off 1 blanket during the night for a little while.
    Singapore (other trekker) snored heavily, so having not brought my ear plugs had a book playing in my ears for most of the night. Gma in the curtained off section next to me also snored and Sy told me as we left that Gma said I snored a little too!!

    After a breakfast of copious pancakes Singapore and a new guide (original arrived to hand over to a replacement as her son was sick), took off to catch the bus back so he could start his 2 day trek to the Fransipan summit and we set off for a few more hours of walking trying to stay away from the big groups of tourists.

    The buffalo are like mountain goats and perch precariously on steep slopes just off the trail. Don’t even realise they’re there until you hear the rustle or see a tourist taking a photo.

    Sy was telling me she often has city tourists that have never seen a buffalo pat and when they’re partly dry on the outside they think they’re a rock and will stand on it. For some people and with some of the pats we’ve seen today that would be midcalf in steaming dung. She said that she sometimes forgets to tell the people they are not rocks, but I’m sure it must be hilarious when it’s an annoying person. She wouldn’t have admitted that. Standing joke today - watch out for the rocks.

    Lunch was delish and a distraction, chicken fried rice while watching the ducks on the rice paddies below and a young woman with babe on her back round up her ducks to take them home, no easy feat as she had to stick to the edges of the rice paddies and the ducks were not compliant.

    We waited for Zuyen to be delivered back to Sy and then I hopped on the back of a motorbike with her brother in law and her father took Sy and the baby.

    Glad I thought ahead and put all my layers on again. Freeeezing! Lucky it was only 30 min

    With an hour before the Limousine I jumped in an electric cart (mad driver) which dropped me at the Sapa market, it was only a quick look as most of the stalls were closed for lunch.

    The fresh food and meat section were open as were a couple of restaurants and herb and tea stalls. I’ve cleaned up the snacks I had on board so bought a bag of dried mango.

    A more sedate drive back, found a coffee and then back to the Office to wait and charge my phone. Down side of relying on it, can’t let it go flat. And that’s where the address of the accom is.

    The offer of something is to be expected so shared some pomelo and tiny green apples, that were like a Nashi but one seed like a plum. Both very nice.

    Limousine arrived and I was put in the back row (had the front seat coming up). I knew something was up, lots of discussion and gestures and a phone call and we hadn’t gone 5 minutes before we pulled over and I was moved into the front seat - I have clearly paid (unknowingly) for VIP treatment. Which may have been an extra $5, so worth it, to be delivered to my next home
    away from home. I feel for the guide who is now sitting where I was as there was a big hard lump that I had just configured one of the provided blankets over.

    5+ hrs to Hanoi. I pulled out my travel pillow, might need it with all the snoring from last night.

    A 10’ temperature difference between Sapa and Hanoi, I’m looking forward to not being cold!

    On the way up I noticed some road workers, full high viz, with hard hats pointing the directions to a small detour, wasn’t until we got closer that I realised they were mannequins. Have been watching for them so I could get a photo, but we just passed them and I was too slow! Bloody funny though. Especially the hard hats!

    When I dug out my travelling gear, buried in the back of the cupboard, I was impressed that these pants still fit - I bought them in Nepal I think. I also remembered that there was something about these pants, but I couldn’t recall what it was. After a few hours I remembered - the zip doesn’t stay up. So for 2 days, I’ve been walking around with my fly undone, (gave up doing it up) thankfully enough layers that it would be hard to notice, but I also started today with my shirt on inside out. That’s what happens when you get dressed in bed. If I remember I’ll get the bloody zip changed with a tailor while I’m here!! Or this will no doubt happen again somewhere.

    Delivered to my accom, but everyone was so helpful they kept shooing me down the street, even when I showed them it was number 9. Long past it when I figured it out and pretty much went back to where I’d been dropped off.

    My room is on the street, so ear plugs tonight, bed rock hard, shower started great but went cold, there’s a washing machine here somewhere and a free breakfast.

    Had a Banh Bo at last stop so that’ll do.
    It’s 9.08 & 20’ yayyyy!    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者

    Hanoi

    2023年12月29日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Noisey night, between the street outside and the family in the kitchen inside, the creature that landed not so quietly on the fire escape outside my window and the horns that started at 4, I eventually put in the ear plugs and slept through till almost 8.

    A day of house keeping. I did a load of washing, and jumped on a Grab bike and went out to an enormous shopping centre to buy a camp mattress. Found a Starbucks, got my nails done and a hair wash and dry.

    The chat back and forth through GT, was something like … worst hair cut ever recently, your hair is natural right?, yes, too lazy to dye it and curls are out of control. That got a laugh!

    Back on a Grab to the Homestay, and found the correct place to get on the train to Hue in a few days, and a tailor across the road to fix the zip on my pants 30000 dng, less than a packet of m&ms.

    Faffed about and a late lunch, and then got a message that the cruise tomorrow had been cancelled! Bastidos! Bloody dodgy - Trip Advisor used to be good, now they’re rubbish.

    So started scrambling for something to fill a few days, with no luck and time. So jumped on another Grab to collect my ticket for the Water Puppets.

    Hooked up with an English mum and son, who were also picking up their tickets and ended up wandering off for a quick snack and a beer and accidentally found a brilliant restaurant over looking the lake.

    Water puppets were great, and very clever. Show went for an hour. We wandered out into a very quiet street, maybe closed now in preparation for New Year. As I walked home I went past where I fell up the step, definitely only one step…so god knows what I did.

    Walked home and then found dinner up the street - best meal so far. My own little bbq plate and all the things to go on it. Fantastic - for 150,000 dng.

    I think I’m sorted for tomorrow, I’ve booked a resort at Cat Ba island and will arrange a day cruise or something when I get there.

    Now just have to get there, with a phone that won’t charge because there’s water in it - or so it says!!
    It’s 10:45 & 20’    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    School presentation
    Seafood fresh caught🤣From the SkybarThe SkybarA little glimpse of blue skyMy bus ticket includes a show bag, a small bottle of water and a weird bun thingyWeirdest set upAs i waited for the car at the end of the street

    Hanoi to Cat Ba Island

    2023年12月30日〜1月1日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Having pulled together a last minute plan, late at night I booked a resort for 3 nights (inclusive of last night) instead of 2 - they assured me at 11pm that they’ll modify the booking when I get there. And a seat on the Cat Ba Express!!
    After repacking and the worst feed thus far - young host in charge of breakfast was more worried about being unable to unlock her phone.. after the offer of 3 microwaved (for too long) pieces of bread, 4 slices of cucumber and a fried egg, I asked for another egg and turned the stale bread into French toast. She had not unlocked her phone by the time I left!
    Should have eaten in the street.

    Another Grab, this time a car to take me to the bus pick up. I hadn’t had an email confirmation, so I wasn’t confident that it would go well and sure enough - no booking and the bus full, but the young woman was marvellous and got me another bus, leaving at the same time.

    Roads are mad busy, even the young guy that stood with me waiting for the bus said so.

    I grabbed a couple of Vietnamese donuts on the way.
    Delicious.

    The bus eventually came and was of course on the furtherest side of the road. He suggested - just go slow and we melted into the flow of traffic and crossed to the bus.

    This is what they must call a sleeper bus. Had to put my shoes in a plastic bag as I got on. The seats fully recline with a section for your feet that is under the seat in front. My seat back won’t stay up, so I’m propped up on my day pack. Which is not comfortable, but the bus is full, so …

    Eventually reclined and lulled to sleep by the drone of the engine under me. I did catch up to the other bus at the speed boat and transferred to a VIP bus for the rest of the way. Chatting to an American couple at the office and then sat with her on the bus. Gorgeous curly grey hair!!

    Dropped close to the hotel and check in simple, room flash, can’t wait for the shower and then off for a walk to explore the town. Kept walking until I found the local Cat Ba, it’s not far away. Wandered through the local market and then back to put my throbbing leg up. There was a schools presentation having the rehearsal on the water front.

    Up to the roof top bar on the 17th floor for a G&T until the cold and hunger sent me off to find dinner.

    I’d already spied the restaurant on my walk, and happened to be the recommendation from a young local guy on the bus. I was the only tourist there! Grilled oysters, steamed whole crab and a pile of garlic buttered prawns. No cutlery to be had!

    I finally got confirmation over dinner of the day trip I found, that isn’t with 100’s of others, so that’s a relief. Would have hated to get here and be able to do nothing. Still lots of tourists even though it’s the off season. Hate to be here in the peak season.

    Lots of development happening, and at the same time, closed restaurants and deserted hotels? Especially in the back streets.

    A wander to an ATM, an icecream from the Vinimart, a few numbers at the school presentation before the cold and throbbing appendage sent me homeward.

    Out all day tomorrow and have been told to pack my swimmers! Yea
    It’s 19’, but forecasted to be 24 and sunny 🌞 tomorrow. Fingers crossed    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Picking up the pods must be someones full time, there are none one the ground

    Cat Ba Island

    2023年12月31日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Waiting in the Lobby for my guide for the day. I’ve booked through a local on Air BnB, so hopefully it’ll be a small group.

    Bizarre Buffet for breakfast as they usually are. Dodgy processing system this morning so a bland brekkie and an Imodium 🥴

    Sun is trying to come out, hazy though.

    Glitch last night as the rest of the day didn’t save 🤨 Second go…

    It was a small group, thank goodness, only 16 of us. Mostly European and a young family from the Netherlands, he was telling me they got stuck in Tahiti with a 2 and 3 year old for 12 weeks at the start of Covid. First week was great, the rest was hell as they couldn’t go more than a k from their hotel room and never together. I said “Well travelled kids, and lucky to survive that” He agreed and laughed heartedly.

    We cruised past the last remaining floating village, which our guide Zuan grew up on. The government basically dismantled the village so they could get the UNESCO world heritage accreditation, but now they live individually or in small clusters. They grow their food, have chickens, pigs and pets - though the dogs are more to guard the place.

    From there to the place where we got the kayaks, with a couple of other groups and I was paired up with another solo traveller who, whilst protesting the whole way to the kayak that she was no expert, immediately jumped in and started paddling off at break neck speed in the wrong direction. Not sure if her inability to follow directions a language barrier or she just wanted to do her own thing, but she didn’t like me telling her anything! And she decided we should take turns paddling, so when I paddled I matched the gentle speed of Zuan, when she paddled we flew past everyone else and I had to put the camera away as she’d shower me with water. Even when returning the kayak, we went nose first at break neck speed toward the dock, with the guy on the dock yelling waving at us to stop!! Her paddling forward, me paddling backwards….

    From there to the bottom of Ha Long Bay to drop anchor for lunch, which was delicious and plentiful, cooked on board by the wife of the boat owner. We could see Ha Long city through the haze and the 100’s of cruise ships - I am so glad that the Cruise didn’t work out, I would have hated it.

    Everyone else had a nap, I chewed Zuans ear off about the pollution and what the government were doing to protect the natural beauty of Viet Nam.
    When we got in the Kayaks, he did tell everyone that if they could safely collect any rubbish to throw it in the back, but he and I were the only ones that did. I would have liked to have a net. There was one area we went through that was just covered in a scum, rubbish and styrofoam pieces 😱😭, and he assured us that a boat comes through and sweeps the area with nets each morning, but it depends on the currents and tides where it drifts to.

    We cruised on to the spot where we were to swim and I had decided when I was watching the soapy, lunch soup dribble over the side of the boat, and knowing that the toilet waste from ours and the other dozen boats also went in to the water with the rubbish in the also went in, that I wouldn’t. Also bloody cold! However, I caved … only here once and it may sadly not be better than it is now for a long time.😢

    Jumped off, swam further than I have done since school, gave up trying to collect styrofoam balls as I swam and tried not to think about how cold it was.
    Explored the shore, crawled (as best I could) through the caves to the beaches on the other side and waited for the others, frozen, to swim back enmass. In case I drowned myself!

    While I waited, I congratulated a couple of young girls who had collected one of the huge deteriorating styrofoam floats and had it loaded on the back of their kayak. They were taking it back to land to put it in a bin. I commented about how much rubbish there was and they wailed about how it was everywhere! And it really was 😢

    I hitched a ride on a kayak to the boat - so glad I didn’t have to get wet again or sink to the bottom of the bay with all the rubbish.

    From our swim to a floating fish farm, where balancing on the boards around the edges was a feat in itself. I think it was mostly for scientific reasons and to breed. They have to wash the fish every few months to get the pollution off them, don’t eat them because they’re in such close quarters they don’t taste nice and they grow them to as big as they can - one groper was 80 kgs and so big that he can’t be washed anymore and will be let loose to survive if he can. Though he just lay there waiting for the offered fish to float into his mouth, so might not.

    Slow cruise back to the harbour and returned to the hotel for a long hot shower and rest the throbbing leg. Before hunger sent me out again.

    It’s warmed up - yay! Massive bowl of noodles and seafood at another back street local place. Wonder how much plastic I have inadvertently ingested in my seafood feeds of the last few days.

    And I’m out at 9:30
    20’
    Happy New Year! Back streets are deserted, tourist strip full to over flowing.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    An electric cart to a coffe on the edge. Stroll back in time to wait for the bus 🙄
    Fn straw ! But the coconut iced coffee is delicious.One of many photo staging points.A wedding venue pumping out the tunes and well dressed folk at 11amDuring summer theres an option for a scenic gondola ride over the shipping containers2Cool Cafe1Not the Tourist Train Street, but still a train street.

    Cat Ba Island to Hue via Hanoi

    2024年1月1日, ベトナム ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Slow start to the day, the tourist strip particularly quiet this morning. Jumped in an electric cart up the hill to the edge of the bay for a coffee and some photos on a clear day and then strolled back down to the hotel, packed the bag up and while I expected the bus to arrive eventually after the set time, it was actually 10 min early. Nothing looks like there’s a system, but there definitely is, and it works like a dream.

    Bus and speed boat and transfer to another bus and the usual pushy got to get off and on first, bs ensues. Hurry up and wait, barge past to get your bag etc etc. 🙄

    Trip back to Hanoi uneventful and with all roads into the Old Quarter closed we were all dropped off on the outskirts of the old quarter at the bus office. A happy chance as a cafe I wanted to go to was 500m up the road. With time to kill I dragged the bag up the foot path/road for a beer and a Bahn mi and a look around. The Hidden Gem Cafe is furnished and decorated with all reclaimed and recycled stuff. Very me!

    Grabbed a Grab to the train station and then set off to find my accom from a few nights ago as I had inadvertently taken one of the security tabs.

    As I’m near the train station I noted as I crossed tracks that there were guards looking down the tracks - another happy accident. Not the touristy area, but still the train squeezing between houses. Got a glimpse inside the sleeper train that I’ll be on in a few hours as well.

    With a phone nearly flat, I followed my nose most of the way but had to check a few times to the Lanha Homestay and I’m now sitting in their foyer with it on charge. Don’t have to be back at the train until 8:30.

    On my way back to the train, as luck would have another train was going past. Not a good photo in the dark, but I had thought it was the one thing in Hanoi I didn’t get to see and the photographer had given me the address of an area that is not heavily touristed and full of bars and cafes to sit on balcony’s over looking the tracks.

    Sharing the cabin with 3 others, a young mum and 2 yr old - she disappeared at some point in the night and came back without the child and 2 older ladies on the top bunks. My ticket said 28, on the top..but so did one of theirs…lots of discussion and several people involved in sorting that out. Mine was the bunk with the bag of snacks. Again the VIP package.

    The 2 older ladies got in, lay down and slept…woohoo I thought. They were awake again at 11, turned on the cabin light…not their own bunk light, ate and nattered away like it was the middle of the day until 3. I eventually got them to turn off the cabin light, but then they got down on to the bunk next to me and continued to talk until their stop.
    Loop ear plugs are the single best (next to the air mattress) investment ever! Didn’t even hear them leave.    もっと詳しく

  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Lunch or is it breakfast?13

    Hue

    2024年1月2日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I did sleep, but needed to use the loo early (a squat, on a moving train, with a sprained ankle, corked thigh and while holding my breath).
    Wide awake after all that at 6, so packed myself up, as quietly as I could, to watch the world go by. I do love trains for that reason.

    Exit to a throng of touts for taxi and tours, but I got snaffled up by a Grab driver and then paid more than I should. Swings and roundabouts!

    My host Tinh, is great and while we waited for the rain to
    pass she favourited local food options and sights on google
    maps and said she’d organise my 1 way trip to Hoi An. Who needs a lonely planet!
    Would never have found the accom as the old area near the citadel is a rabbit warren.

    Their home is lovely and opens on to one of the worship sights where the king would pray for the villagers once a year. The whole city and all of its historic sites are slowly being restored and Tinh was telling me with strict regulations so that it doesn’t become another tourist trap. In an effort to maintain the old quarter as original as possible, nothing can be above 2 stories. She was telling me the government buy back the old family homes where 4 families might live and if those children are married they then are allocated 4 properties. A good deal. The houses at the end of this street will be demolished to allow better access to restore and maintain the historic site here at their front door.

    This old quarter is lovely and a far cry from Hanoi….

    After some Pho at a local place recommended by Tinh and with a break in the rain I set off to tour the Citadel, which was directly opposite the restaurant. Without referring to the map and knowing that I was looking at an exit, I assumed go left and ended up walking it’s whole bloody circumference before being 200m away from where I started for the entrance. And this thing is massive! So I was buggered before I started…

    I have done my last audio tour, while interesting, there’s a lot of details, dates, reigns and sons, and mothers and emperors and palaces and pagodas with long names mentioned. Too many to take in! Lots of restoration and preservation going on.

    Stopped for a coffee on the way home and was entertained by 2 couples that must have taken 100’s of selfies while I was there. The boy was as bad preening and posing!

    Considering the lack of sleep last night I have done well, I came back to The Purple Hue Guest House, showered, rested, discovered I’ve left the power adapter somewhere and then wandered out into the dark to find another local recommendation for the Hue version of Pho. Delish.

    I’m done, it’s 7:30 and 24’    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    I wonder if these puppy prints are as old as the tombs?IncenseIncenseAmazingAt the buddhist pagodaAnd sometimes the owner of the stall is oerched up on a pile of stock in the corner?Famous Hue Dumplings

    Hue Day 2

    2024年1月3日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    I’d love to turn on the map for the adventure, but while I am now plugging in the phone every time I stop for a rest. I’m sure the battery would be flat before I got to where I needed to go, as Google maps is the most frequently used app atm, next to Grab.

    After my visit to the post office and selling a kidney to send home the warmer clothes that I have been carrying around, I went on to have Bahn mi breakfast at the cafe owned by my Airbnb host. Sun is out and it’s 26’.

    From there to find the Healing the Wounded Hearts Shop. Up and down, the street fending of touts and eventually asked at a travel agent. He went on t9 tell me all about them and how they didn’t make it through Covid. It was a NFP, that worked with disabilities and made items out of recycled materials to sell and the money went to children with heart conditions. 😕

    I had a “just say yes” moment and ended up on the back of a motor bike for a great tour to the tombs and pagoda before, the art gallery, lunch and the market.

    Turned out to be a great day and Hue is officially my favourite city so far. There are bins!! And I’ve seen people use them!!

    Walked home from the market, snacking on vege and fruit chips and in search of the giant kites I could see near the citadel, only to arrive as they were packing them up.

    Back to the Homestay, organised tomorrow with Tinh and then back out to wind through dark back alleys (got shooed away last night from one to great amusement of everyone…must have been going up someone’s driveway!) to the dumpling place she recommended. Another winner, and completely different to anything I’ve had so far.

    Packed up with room to breathe and ready for tomorrow’s adventure.
    It’s 8:36, 23’, aircon on as there are no windows in here … fabulous architecturally designed space with light wells, and one whole wall is glass, but no windows.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    The Tiled bridge
    Bras? Of course in bewteen the coconuts, spices and flowersOyster Spring RollsNo food miles here - she was across the road from the restaurant13

    Hue - Hoi An

    2024年1月4日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Up and out and into the city to meet the sight seeing bus to Hoi An. Not something I knew about until Tinh suggested it, and worth it for lunch alone!

    Tinh has given me an old usb charger so I can charge the phone, now for a solution for the SLR.

    Sam a Viet/Thai our guide. Only spare seat was next to me, great to talk to, from everything to the current wars to Trump.

    First stop was a 250+ year old bridge. Than Toan Tile Bridge. Was built in 1776 and has been restored many times. The whole area was 4 m underwater in 2001. Every house hold has a boat, so they can escape a flood if they need to.

    From there to Lang Co Bay, right on the coast, brackish bay on one side of the narrow inlet and the sea on the other. And oyster and fish farming the main industry. We had 30 min here, time enough to devour a plate of Sam recommended oyster spring rolls - positively delicious.

    We were then on our way to follow the old scenic route along the coast and over the mountain that divided the north & south. Hazy, and trying to rain, so not a great view, but Sam showed me a photo of a clear day and yes, not the day to be there.

    We came across a single vehicle accident here, a truck
    had lost control. Sam went on to tell us then that 29 people a day are killed and 150+ injured everyday in road accidents. Staggering but not surprising and the government are trying to get stricter enforcement in place. But …

    Through Denang, where Sam jumped off and got us all a Banh Mi for lunch and a stop at the Marble Mountains, hard to fathom that the whole mountains are made of marble and there doesn’t seem to be a chance that they’ll ever run out. Sam was telling me the craftsman make good money (In Viet Nam standards). The big statues are worth $10000’s of USD and are shipped all over the world.

    There are a series of pagodas on the top, 108 steps up & down (of course). I caught the elevator, yes - an elevator attached to the edge of a mountain, for the bus loads of ladies in their in appropriate walking shoes! I wandered around like a little old lady paranoid about the uneven surfaces and the steep steps, leg and foot throbbing from sitting down. Found a cafe for a mango juice and put my foot up before we were off again.

    Finally arrived in Hoi An, and got dropped near the Homestay for the next few days. Vinh my host is very friendly and helpful - after I asked for a tech shop, he produced an adapter for me as I haven’t been able to charge my camera since I left mine in a wall somewhere or it fell out of my bag on the train in the dark, and of course some tailor recommendations. Dropped off some laundry, got 2 skirts ordered and then wandered off to eat to the night market and to find an atm.

    Hoi An is beautiful in the dark, all pretty coloured lights and fairy lights. A delicious selection of BBQ for dinner, half a pineapple and some
    Peanut Rice Cake. Said no to a dozen happy hour cocktail buckets, massages and foot massages and pedicures.

    I keep getting told, by the locals that there are hardly any tourists here…, I wouldn’t want to be here in the peak season.

    I scored a Commonwealth Bank CC while I was at the atm. Just sitting on top of the ledge. Thought it safer to take it than leave it there. I’ve messaged a woman with the same name through FB, if I don’t hear from her I’ll destroy it.

    I have an early walking tour in the morning and that’s all that’s planned so far.
    It’s 9.30
    21’    もっと詳しく

  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Smoked flavour is free - ash is extra
    bà ngoại, (grandma) followed us for a few stalls.1Ex school teacher turned bean sprout farmer with a 3am start 364 days a year!!Noodle farmer-been doing it since he was 10 yrs old

    Hoi An Day 1

    2024年1月5日 ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Late night to and fro with the guide from tomorrow’s walking tour and Laurie of the missing credit card.

    Each experience I’ve done has been through Air BnB and so far each have been terrific. Today’s back street tour was no exception, including a 5th generation noodle factory, and a bean sprout farm, market snacks, including family histories and names of the locals. The detours through back streets always a great insight to local life.

    A comparison between the ages of the two men with the factories we visited. The noodle gentleman doesn’t mind the happy water (rice wine) and the smokes. He is 66 and the bean sprout gentleman was 72 - lots of vit e in mung bean sprouts. Not a wrinkle on him!!

    Kiwi our guide was marvellous and each time we crossed the road she’d say “Together we are stronger, stay together!”Certainly a different approach than the one in Hanoi!
    There were only 3 others in the group- friends - Swiss and Netherlands.

    On my way home I arranged a way to spend most of tomorrow-another small group tour that advertise why they don’t go where everyone else goes! Sounded good to me.
    So we will see.

    It’s hot and humid, so with a full,stomach I’ve been sitting in the window with a view of the laundry across the way that has most of my clothes for 60k Dong and she’s back from where ever she’s been.

    All of a sudden I feel like I’m running out of time.

    After a lazy afternoon at the homestay, The Snow Society - Netflix. Highly recommend, it was time to head back out. Laurie of the CC finally got in touch as I was about to go out for a beer with a view, so a 2 min walk around the corner and I am on the perfume river with a new friend. Big hug and a few beers later, I’m on my way to the night market for dinner. Can’t believe I’m eating again after this morning feast. But a rice cake pancake was sufficient to top me up and a sweet snack when I got home.

    It’s 7.46 and I’m ready for bed.

    Now that the camera is charged again, so not many photos on the phone today.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Early morning on the river.
    Rubbish is collected apparently, a new phenomenon.For mum, orchids.This 72 yr old woman - name of Sexy Lady, was our bowl boat coach and hammed it up for the group.A dinner of the famous local noodles for dinner.Another lantern filled street.Not wven sure where it's coming from

    Hoi An Day 2

    2024年1月6日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Up and out early to grab a Bahn Mi and a coffee before a local bike tour, a small group and for a change I wasn’t the only Aust.

    In total we only did 9 ks on the bike, but covered all the basics. Boat building village.
    Happy Water distillery - I quite like the Mulberry flavoured one. Sleeping mat weaving - no wonder the beds are so hard!!
    Local family for a delicious lunch.
    Family pagoda visit - aha moments about the way they worship and celebrate the ancestors. Discovered more about the paper sacrifices at the market yesterday. They have everything you can think of made from paper including iPhone, iPods, Apple Watch and of course the charger! - the area where they are made is in Hanoi, wish I’d known that.
    Paddle in a bowl boat - after we learnt how they’re made.
    I mastered going backwards.
    Mother of pearl in lay factory-no hard sell AT all.
    A hair raising pedal across a floating bridge, actually the bridge wasn’t as treacherous as the “path” through the reeds on the other side, I have an uncanny ability to see the hole/bump any obstruction actually, and still manage to run in to it.
    I blame yoga!!

    We had a lovely boat ride back, not a sunset cruise like the ones I watched over beers last night, with pretty lights and loud music or karaoke.

    Friendly bunch of people, most well travelled, so we swapped horror stories of adventures and laughed at each other misfortunes. There was 1 young couple from Belgium on their first trip ever and the rest of us all agreed that it’s so easy these days for them.

    Both guides were very good and interesting to talk to. I was always at the back of the pack on purpose, so got to chat with both.

    We left at 8:30 and got back at 3. A great day. What to do now!?, as I sit and watch the night stalls starting to come out and set up for their nights trade.

    Foot rested I set off in search of the tailor that Laurie (cc) had used and have now set in motion a dress, shirt, skirt and a pair of shorts.

    I then got directed to a local restaurant and directed to go back to the shop after dinner and then was brought home. I’m to go back tomorrow about 3. Will rent a bike tomorrow as the cooking school is more than a walk away.

    It’s 10:05
    There’s some karaoke somewhere near by … earplugs going in. Not even white noise is going to drown this out. Might need both!    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者

    Hoi An Day 3

    2024年1月7日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today’s plan is to try not to get killed whilst I explore by bicycle. Apart from modes of transport that have legs, I’ve pretty much covered them all now!!

    My butt is not a fan of bike seats, but it wasn’t too bad after yesterday’s adventure.

    So off I set looking for a bike. They seem to be everywhere when you’re not looking for them, but the only one I found this morning as I walked towards where I was going was just ok!

    After a quick run down on how to lock it 🤣🤣 away i wobbled. Not much traffic at 8, found a place for breakfast and continued to the Charming Homestay for my morning cooking class.

    There were only 3 of us in the class, we were in the kitchen and not wearing a chefs hat and apron!! Like some of the bigger touristy ones publicise.

    We rode 10 minutes to the local market - with a road side shop stop to buy raincoats. A brief but heavy shower as it turned out. The couple from the Netherlands quite well adapted to the biking, but the raincoat was just one more thing to think about and it was about here that I noticed the seat slipping.

    The market was fun and interesting, they always are, but Ha had some great things to share about different things and the couple were very curious about all the food types they’d never experienced before.

    Equipped with what we’d need for our dishes we rode back to the Homestay and cooked our meals.

    Banana and prawn spring rolls, a simple dipping sauce, a beef and a chicken dish. All delicious and the recipes recipes will be shared with us soon. We were given one of the kitchen gadgets that we used, which was funny as we’d taken a photo of it to go track it down at the markets.

    I wasn’t far from the Tra Que Vegetable Village, so I detoured there on my way back to the tailor. Little plots of land, all owner by different families and farmers that grow all the greens and vegetables that we’d seen earlier in the markets.

    On the way to the tailor, I had a young guy on a scooter pull up next to me and tell me there was something wrong with the bike. Eventually we figured out it was the seat he was trying to tell me about, fixed it again and then he rode off.

    A few minutes later I rode past him again and he started riding along beside me making conversation. I eventually pulled up near other people to check my bearings and he took the opportunity to ask me if I wanted to “try a local boy”, I laughed out loud, and said “No thanks, I’m too old for you!” He said very seriously - “No, you are still good”, I said “No, but thanks for the offer”, and still laughing he shrugged and rode away.

    I told the girls at the tailor when I got there, they could’ve believe I thought it was funny.

    Tried on the things I’d ordered, with just a few adjustments, and then was whisked away with Ahmi, to pick the leather for a jacket I decided to have made and the dress I’d bought with me to have copied. Back to the tailor, and onto the bike to make my way back to get rid of it. I ended up walking it through the busy tourist section, no one paying attention to anything let alone me, and the groups of Chinese or Korean, just come at you like a wall, so thought it safer for everyone if I wasn’t on the bike.

    An atm, a snack and then to the other tailor, around the corner who has knocked off a couple of my reversible skirts - but messed up the pockets and then out to dinner and ate at my first and last restaurant. It was nice, but nothing to get excited about.

    It’s 9:30
    A walking tour of the old quarter planned for tomorrow.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    2

    Hoi An Day 4

    2024年1月8日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    No real plan today until my walking tour this afternoon, so I set off looking for a couple of random things on my list.

    On the way I was hoodwinked by a very friendly lady who could not believe my hair! I ended up letting myself be whisked away from my original agenda for a coffee at her brothers cafe, a lantern making workshop in the central market with her friend and a pair of pants from her. She was lovely though and she was full of local tips and stories about what to spend on what and where.

    I picked up a couple of cooking gadgets on my way back to my original plan and then found my Thingy for the Christmas tree before lunch and my walking tour with Trang. Another fabulous afternoon.

    Back to Remy the tailor, whisked away to pick up the leather jacket, final try on of the other clothes and then I was dropped at The White Rose to try the famous rose shaped dumplings. Had a chat with a couple of young Aust girls at the restaurant.

    I had a go at making the rose dumpling wrappers today and the ladies, amidst lots of giggling said I’d get a job if I kept practicing for 3 months.

    Wandered home, sat outside a Buddhist temple to listen to the chanting for awhile, through the busy night markets and the bars. I feel sorry for the ones on the edge with no customers, but I’ve supported the economy enough I think.

    I’ve walked a hundred miles today and an early start tomorrow, so we can get to My Son before everyone else.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    My Son
    1The pants I accidentally boughtFlower stalls at the market are amazing

    Hoi An Day 5

    2024年1月9日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Quote of the day!!!

    Big tall English guy, who on handing the phone back to his girlfriend to check the photo of herself said “There is a total ban on photos for 30min”.

    I laughed out loud!!

    Up early to be out at the My Son ruins by daybreak. Worth the early morning as we were leaving when everyone else was arriving. There would have only been 30 or so people there and they kept us pretty spread out. So that was great.

    Amazing place, will add more details, when I’m not getting up at 4am.

    Back to Hoi An, after breakfast and started to get myself sorted. Wandered back to the market to collect the other pants that were made, bought a book from a young man with polio, he said “I know you don’t want one, but could you help me?” - lunch of the fried wonton, rose dumplings and the spider web spring rolls which Hoi An are famous for, started the book at another cafe over a coconut coffee and then crashed for a bit.

    Went to the Bamboo Circus on recommendation by Thuay, this mornings guide - absolutely brilliant! Dinner on the street of fresh spring rolls, have managed to get everything into the bag and need to be asleep as I’m heading out for a photography session at 4:45.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者

    Hoi An - Saigon

    2024年1月10日, ベトナム ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Best start to the day, Etienne (French) picked me up at 4:45 on the dot, we collectedo 2 other photographers (both women, a French and an Australian) and we went out to a small fishing village to shoot life!

    I knew before I left that my SLR, was on its final adventure but the reality is that, what it can’t do is like comparing a washing machine to a toaster!! So my takeaway from today is going it’s going to cost me!!

    My “dinosaur” and I did the best we could, but I won’t really know if I got anything worth the 4:30am start until I can see them on the computer. It was the experience that I wanted in Hanoi at the start of my trip … and has inspired me again, we chatted and laughed with locals - Etienne has been visiting that same village for 10 years, has lived here for 13 years, most of it in Hoi An. It was his dream as a child to live in Asia. So he has a very good relationship with the people there and they don’t mind being photographed. There was one little lady, who I reckon will be in the background of most photos as she seemed to be everywhere.

    Too busy watching where I walked staying out of the way of motor bikes and busy people and composing photos to whip out the phone to get a snap. We stopped for breakfast in a smoke filled cafe full of fisherman playing cards, while a shower of rain went over and then headed down to the ship yard for some more photo ops.

    Oh the rubbish …… while we were sitting and watching and waiting Etienne was interpreting a conversation between a group of fishermen and customers. They were complaining about how they have to pull all the plastic out of the catch/fish and at the same time throwing it back over their shoulder.

    Etienne believes it’ll be another generation before there will be change. I asked if he had kids, he said he tries not to think about their world “it stresses me”. I noticed that he wore a thing around his wrist that he fiddled with for anxiety I guessed. When we talked about different nationalities he said the entitled American stress him the most - treating him like the hired help and they’re never content. Everything from rain to sunshine is his fault and he doesn’t have fun on those days. We laughed a lot today.

    Back to the Little Boss, with plenty of time to get ready for the car. I tried to go in the shuttle bus, but the photo shoot didn’t fit with the departure, so just had to. Bonus that I didn’t have to drag the bag anywhere as he came to the door.

    I’ve had my first thing “taxed”. I noticed that a light fingered clean freak at the fish market has souvenired the hand sanitiser that was attached to the back of my pack with a carabiner. I’ve hardly used it as everywhere has a sink and soap or they offer a hand wipe. So they are welcome to it. One less thing to take up space.

    I entertained myself on the drive watching the motorbikes. Everyone has something to note - a Pokémon helmet with ears, a hard hat or pith helmet, a half dozen bikes, baskets of ducks, a fridge, a tv, pretty high heels, a neck to ankle Gucci raincoat, ovenmitts for hand warmers, a toddler in a teddy bear onsey standing between the helmeted parents, 3 or more teenagers etc
    A constant source of amusement.

    Left a little bit of overflow behind, including my brand new rain poncho, but I know it’ll be used… it’s a tight pack, so there will no more shopping in Vietnam, and that’s what I’ve been telling everyone that hits me up to buy something.

    At the Da Nang airport watching people wheel around their carry on (even though I know they’ve probably checked the duplicate bag 3 times the size) makes me think I need more practice at travelling light. The air mattress doesn’t help matters and the bed in Saigon better be rock hard or I’ll be bloody annoyed as I haven’t used it in Hoi An.

    I’m in my penthouse (4th floor) apartment in Saigon, haven’t ventured out yet, tried to have a little nap. Backpack straps have been used for the second time this trip, and the third time will be going back down the steps. I’m on top of a coffee shop, weird how that works. I’ll have to go through the kitchen in the morning.

    Hunger is driving me out into the neighbourhood, I won’t be going far, and with an early tour in the morning to the Chu Chi tunnels, I won’t be awake for
    long either.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    2

    Ho Chi Min Day 1

    2024年1月11日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Have had a huge day with 15 minutes to shower change and join a motorcycle food tour. So just photos for now..

    On the way to Mekong River, a 2hr drive.

    Chu Chi Tunnels today with a pick up of 7:05 (oddly exact for a place with such crazy traffic), and I was awake every 30min for no reason….

    I turned right and walked for a block - no Banh Mi, went left , none that way either, couldn’t believe it. Wasn’t game to go too far in case pick up changed, so away I went on an empty stomach. The snack collection saw me through to a road side coffee stand where we waited for a guy who had to catch up by bike as he’d slept through. I found a Banh Mi down a nearby alley and with a coffee to go. We were away.

    The tour was great and we were at a less touristy area of the tunnels. Tom our guide had lots to tell and it was a fun group. The tunnel system and ingenuity of the Viet Cong astounding. The whole history of independence fascinating and tragic.
    Ho Chi Min a very smart man and brilliant politician.

    A couple of men on the tour had a go at firing an AK 47, and we watched another on the machine gun - they are fixed in place and can’t be picked up. Unbelievably loud! Norway tells us they instantly start damaging your hearing.
    The adrenaline/testosterone was high for a while and the chatter amongst them hits home later 😢.

    We called in for a rest stop at the craft village of the people with Agent Orange/Disabilities. The ramifications are into the 2nd generation now and they expect there will be for up to 5 generations as it destroys the dna of the first person exposed. After the initial financial compensation by the US government some villages
    rebuilt on the poisoned lands and continued to farm. Whilst the chemical companies denied there would be long term residues.

    Norway and I got dropped at the War Remnants Museum on the way back.

    I cried the whole time and over 3 floors had to regroup each time I moved between the exhibition rooms. The adrenaline and false sense of power that might come from wielding the weapons can’t justify what individuals did but might explain why they did what they did. The guys that had them in their hands for 2 minutes were pumped up.

    Acts of humanity by soldiers who saved villages from certain slaughter, worth noting.
    American Senators lauded for being a Vet, charged with war crimes and being pardoned by the President (can’t remember which one - doesn’t matter, they are all the same!), worth noting, images of piles of dead Vietnamese, children, elderly, women, worth noting. American GI holding up the remains of a blown to pieces child …. And sitting proudly with a pile of skulls. How can we call ourselves Humam Kind….

    I crossed paths with Norway and he told me he was crying on the inside, I looked at him in tears and couldn’t say anything.

    10 minutes as an urban Bear Grills had me use the museum
    Wifi to get a screenshot of maps to get me to the closest phone place - I had half the bus establish that my SIM had expired - and bravely I set off.

    Mission accomplished at the first place I came to - huge flash place with 6 attendants who raced each other to open the door for me, could have bought no end of gadget but just 15000 dong for 3 more
    days instead. Very helpful girl, who did everything through Google translate called the provider and sent me on my way.

    Before I left the shop I’d booked a motorbike food tour to join Sheryl & Rayner from the days tour and a Grab bike to get home to meet my bike.

    Motorbike foodie tour with 5 others and a bunch of female uni students who do this as their job, 3 nights a week to help them practice their English, great fun and a great
    bunch of girls.
    Rachel my driver was on her first tour and we had a great chat as she weaves in and out of traffic “like a fish” she tells me!!

    Fell into a food coma at 10, pleased to be off my feet.    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    Firat glimpse of the mighty Mekonf River
    Breakfast watching the bikes fo by2

    Ho Chi Min - MeKong Delta

    2024年1月12日, ベトナム ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Up early again, walked a little further afield for breakfast and then a coffee a few doors up before being collected for the Mekong tour.
    Greeted by the 3 new Phillipino friends from last nights food tour. Only 10 of us again and we don’t go to the main touristy bit. We will see.

    First stop was a brick works, one of hundreds along the river, using sand dredged from the river, then a boat ride along the river with a fresh coconut and fruit platter.

    From the boat to bikes and we rode through the small villages and visited a number of small businesses. Coconut candy, chocolate, honey, tea all farmed and produced within the small area we visited. On we rode to a local family for lunch and then into a couple of Sanpans to be rowed back to the boat for the ride back to the bus.

    We got back to Ho Chi Min at 6:30, I did 4 lefts and found a fabulous wonton soup for dinner on my way home. Ready to crash early and with no alarm to wake up to maybe I’ll sleep through the night!

    I found a cheapo hotel to go to after I check out of here tomorrow. And with a loose plan, we’ll see where the day takes me!    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者
    The apartment building across the alleyway
    The only 2 bottles I've consumed, dont want to think about all the other plastic.Proving I still can ! This is not for comfort, just emergencies. Note the pile of left behinds.Clean day in Ho Chi Min and the floating rubbish islands.Why not, everyone else does!The Ho Chi Min MuseumA remnant from the French.Somehow I don't think this was a massage spa!Independence PalaceA shooting range - against an AK47, youd never get this close to your target.Last shot of the crazy trafficEgg Caphe

    Ho Chi Min Day 3

    2024年1月13日, ベトナム ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It’s 8:27, and I have a plan and it starts with only going down those stairs 1 more time.
    A few more things to leave behind, but I doubt it’ll make much difference to the repacking.
    I’ve booked a coffee class and the hop & off double decker bus. Lazy way to hit the main sights of the city, though in this traffic certainly faster to go by motorbike.

    I eventually found somewhere for breakfast/lunch - unfortunately the worst thing I’ve eaten this trip, hopefully dinner tonight will ensure that the bowl of beef noodles (spaghetti and grisly beef in a bowl of watery broth) ends the trip on a high.

    I wandered on to the ticket booth for the bus, timing it with just 5 min to spare. People watching the best thing about that diversion. In particular the number of young people - more girls than boys in traditional outfits posing for their IG accounts. Staring whistfully at an orchid, the V sign, I even saw 1 girl arranging herself on the bitumen in the middle of everything.

    I got off at the Independence Palace and weaved my way around big groups for a look there. The technology on display and the grandiose decoration of the Presidents rooms, like something out of a 1970’s Bond film. My intention then was to do a quick walk through the Central Market and then go on to my coffee workshop.

    As I was walking along checking the map, I look up to see a grinning and waving couple deliberately walking towards me! Odd…After spending the day with Jeremy, Josh & Sunny from the food tour yesterday, couldn’t believe it … out of a possible 10 million people I run into Sheryl & Rayner (great couple) also from the Chu Chi tunnels and food tour. So we had a quick catch up and a laugh at the chances of running into each other, they had just come from the coffee place I was heading to - I missed my window to detour through the market and went straight to the egg coffee class.

    Only 2 others, a lovely girl from Mongolia (we discovered we had a lot in common in 60min) who owns a coffee shop there and a Vietnamese girl. Can’t believe I left it til the end to try the egg caphe, it’s delicious! And the inventors family place is in Hanoi. Next time.

    I couldn’t have planned it any better, with the $20, 2 star hotel up the road only 450m. Smells a little dank….And that’s where I’ve been for the last 3 hours tying to sleep as I know I’ll get none on the plane. It’s in the middle of the building, so can’t hear any street noise, air-con and I’ll be able to have a shower before I go. And that’s all it’s got going for it….

    A short wander around the corner and stopped at the first place full of locals - ice cold Tiger and a bar snack to go with it. Just spring rolls.
    As I munched away it occurred to me that I had not checked the cost of the Grab to the airport … and of course on checking not quite enough once I’d paid for dinner …. So via an ATM to the hotel and a shower and then when I actually booked, it was considerably cheaper, now I don’t need the money I got FFS.

    8:30pm
    Change of plans … staying til Monday because I can’t read a ducking 24hr clock….
    FFS

    9:17pm
    Flying via Melbourne - expensive lack of attention to detail!    もっと詳しく

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  • Tracey BienekVietnam 2023旅行者

    Ho Chi Min - Home

    2024年1月14日, オーストラリア ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    What a costly mistake, another good reason to travel with someone. I’ve only got myself to blame for this.

    First enquiry for the Melbourne flight was that it was full, so with few options I went and sat down …
    Find a bed
    Research a flight - next Bne is Monday.
    Then out of the throng is the Jetstar guy I was talking to 10 min ago, telling me to “quickly”.

    So I’m shifting money, buying a flight to Melbourne, hopping from foot to foot in the never ending security line, getting cranky with the people who leave it until they are at the front of the cue to start getting organised.

    While I weave my way through I cancel my BNE- ROK, and buy a Mel-ROK, can’t figure out how I booked the room in Bne to cancel it, and with only time to swing past the ladies I arrive at the gate in a tiz!

    Now Viet Nam is finished!    もっと詳しく

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    旅行の終了
    2024年1月14日
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