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Sri Lanka

December 2021
A 13-day adventure by Pol Read more
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  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 1

    Colombo

    December 11, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Quick enough I was done with all the procedures at the airport, so I took a night taxi to Colombo, where I got a few hours rest in a fairly disappointing hotel. I woke up at 9am to wander through Pettah before catching the 10:30 train to Galle.

    My first impression of Sri Lanka was that of a cultural shock. Although I've been to South East Asia before, the scenes from Colombo streets reminded me much more of an Indian movie. The first surprise was to discover that most Sri Lankans wear a facemask because of Covid. I didn't expect it.

    The feeling in the atmosphere was nice and exotic but the heat was suffocating. I had hardly walked for 5 minutes when I was stopped by a vendor to try his mildly spiced samosa for breakfast. I'm sure I'll love Sri Lankan cuisine! I kept marveling the busy streets of Pettah -the commercial district of Colombo- passing by stalls of 'ayurvedic' medicine, jewellery and fabrics. I made it to the train station just to discover that for some reason my train wouldn't work today.    Read more

  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 1

    Colombo to Galle

    December 11, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    For some reason, the 10:30 train to Galle wouldn't work today. Change of plans: no way to stay longer in Colombo with my heavy backpack, so I took a regular bus instead. Quite an experience!

    The old-fashioned vehicle had no air-con, though I could get on early enough -only after a Buddhist monk- and get a seat by the window where I could see the ocean view during the drive. How lucky! because the bus was to be packed and I could at least get some fresh air.Read more

  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 1

    Galle

    December 11, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    After nearly 3½ hours I arrived to Galle and headed to a local restaurant to taste the typical fish-yellow curry, which was delicious, at Elita's Kitchen.

    I walked around Galle Dutch Fort. A very different sight, reminder of the colonial past of the island. The sun was lower and clouds were showing up, so I got onto a tuk-tuk and headed to Dikwella. Thanks God I did so! After a few minutes ride it startwd to rain heavily. 'Heavy' like: rather than a tuk-tuk, the driver and me wished we had a boat...

    We spent the 2-hours drive talking a bit, despite his little English. He told me he loves football, seconds before I realized he was crippled. He had lost a leg during the civil war. He had joined the army but the Tigers -the Tamil guerrilla- attacked his battalion in the jungle of northern Sri Lanka. Quite interesting story. I tried to pull his tongue about the civil conflict. I wanted to know his point of view as a Sinhalese buddhist, but also as a victim. He wouldn't say much: he confusingly associated the Tamils with muslims and limited to say that muslims are good at making business.

    After the torrential rain we made it to Hiriketiya, where I'm staying at a modest guest-house. I took a shower, went for a well-deserved beer and I just finished my red crab curry. Delicious seafood!    Read more

  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 2

    Hiriketiya

    December 12, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    When I woke up in my guest house in Hiriketiya I was very disappointed about the weather. It was just very cloudy while I was having a heavy breakfast, but later rain shyly started pouring. I didn't expect much from the day and even considered changing plans and head to Tissamaharama, but the forecast there wasn't much better.

    It then stopped raining, so I decided to go for a morning walk to the beach. I discovered few surfers in Hiriketiya Bay, and then I walked through the jungle to Dikwella beach. These paradise beaches literally meet the jungle here. I had the whole beach on my own. After a while I headed back to Hiri, I got myselaf a 'king coconut' and even considered taking an 'ayurvedic' massage. The Sun was shining every now and then, so I decided to go to Tangalle and see Goyambokka beach.    Read more

  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 2

    Goyambokka

    December 12, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    Goyambokka, 7pm

    I first tried to get the bus from Hiriketiya road, but I finally took a tuk-tuk to Goyambokka beach. I discovered real paradise here despite the rain. I've spent most of the time in the village in a cottage bar by the sea, run by a friendly fisherman who invited me go fishing tomorrow. I had some drinks and a deliciously cooked fresh fish.

    Then I joined my new friend's friends in a Sri Lankan styled birthday party. Out of the sudden they brought some booze, so I could not refuse. They started to sing some rythmic sinhalese songs. I couldn't get a single word but it was fun. I even ended up singing an Estopa song after their insistent request. When the party was over I headed to the place where I'm staying: a nice cabana in the middle of the jungle where I can listen to the wildlife around. I've seen already a monkey, lightworms, a huge iguana, many birds and some stray dogs.    Read more

  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 3

    Fishing in Goyambokka

    December 13, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Goyambokka, 11am

    I'm sitting in front of the ocean with fantastic views of a sandy beach and coconut trees. This sight could perfectly define paradise. I'm at Bamboo bar, the place I've spent most of the time with my new fisherman friend. Today I woke up as arranged at 5am to go fishing. It was still dark night and the sea was rough, so it looked impossible to sail. We waited, smoked som 'ganja' (worst idea ever) and finally Nuwan told me to go throw the net on the beach. After a couple of unsuccessful stands, the sea looked much quieter, so... Why not?

    We walked to a super small secluded beach where Nuwan had his boat, we got all the stuff we'd need, jumped on the boat and started paddling. Fishing in the Indian ocean sounds exciting enough, but doing it in a incredibly narrow canoe, with no net but a couple of strings with hooks, is such an experience I will never forget. We catched a barracuda we kept alive so we could try to get a bigger fish. We spent around 3 hours out there. I got quite seasick. We weren't particularly lucky with the 'big fosh' but we did catch a couple of fishes instead.

    Then I went back to pack my things in the cabana and after a filling breakfast I went again to Bamboo to discover it was sunny! After helping out Nuwan and his brother with some refurbishment work for their hut, we started cooking the fish we catched and I learned how to spice it Sri Lankan way. I believe I haven't had any meat yet in this trip!    Read more

  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 3

    Goyambokka to Tissamaharana

    December 13, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    Tissamaharama, 8:15pm

    I've just finished my dinner at the place I'm staying tonight, a little family hotel by the lake. I already arranged a safari tour for tomorrow but I couldn't enjoy the sights from here because it's been raining for the last 3 hours. This place is full of mosquitoes! Anyways I'll go to sleep early as tomorrow I'll be picked up at 5am for the Yala National Park safari.Read more

  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 4

    Yala National Park

    December 14, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Tissa, 1:30 pm

    I'm completely soaked waiting for my tuna in Chef Lady restaurant. I thought taking a walk by the lake would be nice, but it suddenly started pouring. Lucky me a safari driver who was passing by gave me a lift to the restaurant.

    This morning I woke up super early again. This time not to go fishing but to go game-gazing from a Jeep in a safari to Yala. I shared the tour with a friendly young Swiss couple. I must admit it was not the same than self-driving in Namibia with my best friends. Fun enough, though.

    In Yala National Park had rained all-night long so the roads were muddy and some areas flooded. The driver warned us to lower our expectations for the day. Gates open at 6am, so we got in at dawn. A ten-ish queue of Jeeps followed. The first big animal we saw was a crocodile, from a long distance. Must say that after swimming with some of them in Darwin the experience here was 'meh'. And then... "Lucky! Lucky!" We stared to a big sloath bear less than 10 meters away. Usually this rare animal is super shy, even the drivers were surprised. We kept on driving to see some elephants, buffalos, spotted deer... and finally... YES! The leopard! Such a beautiful individual. We saw him in the bushes and climbing up a tree, but soon after he disappeared. Unlike lions in Namibia this big cat is super elusive. But after a while we got to see a second one! All in all we spent around 6 hours driving through Yala, chasing some other animals and enjoying the views.    Read more

  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 4

    Tissa to Ella

    December 14, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Ella, 8:20am

    I just woke up a bit hangover. I have a pretty nice morning view from the terrace of my tree-house style backpackers hostel.

    Yesterday, after my flavourful tuna steak lunch I arranged a ride to Ella instead of spending another night in Tissa. Great choice! After the scenic road to Ella -with a stop at Ravana falls- I made it to 'No-name hostel' where I met a German guy who I spent the evening speaking with. Later a Dutch girl joined us. After our 'kotto' dinner we headed to Chill café where we met some other backpackers and we shared some cocktails, shots and a couple of 660ml sized beers (Sri Lankan standards).Read more

  • TravelerSri Lanka
    Day 5

    Ella

    December 15, 2021 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Ella, 9pm

    I'm checking out at No-name hostel as tomorrow morning I'm planning to take the earliest train to Haputale. The day's been pretty good. In the morning I hiked the Little Adam's peak to see some nice views of the hills. It was very cloudy but at least I got no rain. In the afternoon I met again my German roommate and we went for lunch together and I chilled out a bit before taking my cooking class with Priya -and two girls. Besides the rice & curry dishes we learnt to cook we alsl enjoyed some conversation with this adorable Tamil lady about society and religion.Read more

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