• Kirsti Mathiasen

Asia-Pacific 2017

A 127-day adventure by Kirsti Read more
  • Trip start
    January 11, 2017

    Goodbye Vancouver!

    January 11, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ -2 °C

    Alanna drove me to the airport this morning, kind lady that she is! Traditional Ceaser drink to kick off the upcoming 24 hours of travel... I'll be tired on arrival for sure!

    Update: upgraded to premium economy will make this 13hr that much more enjoyable ;)Read more

  • Kathmandu Arrival

    January 13, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ 🌫 4 °C

    I arrived at my hotel in Kathmandu tonight after 24+ hours of travelling! The journey itself was uneventful. First flight from YVR to Guangzhou, China was 13 hours long. I ended up in premium economy because a woman wanted to sit with her husband so we traded seats. Not a bad deal! I flew with China Southern which overall is an okay airline. No complaints other than that they won't let you use your phone even when on airplane mode.... So all the ebooks, games, music, and movies I had downloaded to entertain myself didn't get used.... Thankfully their movie selection wasn't bad and I had brought a physical Sudoku game book. Watched the first 4 Harry Potter movies as a result ;) I had a two hour lay over in China which was plenty of time to switch terminals and get a snack. Although the only place that accepted credit was Starbucks, I was hoping for real food! Now I know for next time. The flight from China to Kathmandu, Nepal was just under 5 hours. Again, I was "upgraded" to a premium seat, this time because a husband wanted to sit with his wife and kids. Can't complain about that! As a result of the switch I ended up sitting next to the only other foreigner on the plane, a man from Seattle travelling on business. He's been here quite a few times before so he gave me a number of useful tips and helped me navigate the airport upon arrival from filling out the paperwork to showing me where to find my airport pickup. Very glad for his help!

    The 10 minute drive from the airport to my hotel, Hotel Amaryllis, gave me a taste of what to expect from the city. Chaos. They drive on the left side of the road with little regard to lane markings, no stop signs that I could see, and stray dogs and random pedestrians everywhere! And no seatbelts. Good thing I won't be driving here at all. I'm really looking forward to seeing the city in the daylight tomorrow!

    From my brief time in the airport I get the sense that I'm going to be a "commodity". Was definitely getting curious looks from the locals, I hear because I'm a tall white woman travelling alone. We'll see if it continues tomorrow ;) It's currently 6degC here and feels much warmer than home. Perhaps the curious looks were because of only wearing a single hoodie rather than the winter jackets everyone else was wearing. The hotel manager said that it's very cold here right now! All about perspective.

    The hotel is nice, and again, looking forward to seeing it tomorrow in the daylight. No complaints about the room! I did notice that we're one of the few buildings with lights on still, glad that I paid the extra to stay in a hotel with a 24 hour generator. No need to worry about power cuts and I have access to hot water whenever I like!

    It's now 1:00 am (Jan 13) and I suppose I should go to bed. The time change from home is 13hr 45min. So you'll be seeing my posts at irregular times! I'll try to stay up on posting regularly but no promises ;)
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  • Thamel, Kathmandu

    January 13, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    Today was exhausting but definitely interesting. I slept soundly through the night and woke up in time for breakfast that's included with my hotel stay: hot food, fresh fruit, coffee. Overall better than most breakfasts that are included with hotel stays. The first person that I saw thought I was German, must look European ;)

    After breakfast I wandered out into the city. Of course it's very different than home but I wasn't as overwhelmed and culture shocked as I thought I would be. Guess that's what happens when you don't have any idea of what to expect. I spent about 2.5 hours wandering around Thamel, the touristy area of Kathmandu. There I learned a few things: the traffic is more crazy than it seemed last night, pedestrians don't have the right of way apparently, people are friendly, people are trying to sell you things, people are curious about where you're from. I have to admit I quickly got fed up with the selling aspect of things. I understand that everyone is out there to make a living and I'm happy to chat and give you my money if it's for something I need or want, but please respect when I say no! Perhaps I'll come back more forceful, less nice, less patient ;) My favourite experience from the morning was enjoying a cup of tea randomly with a shop owner. I was waiting to get a SIM card and we started chatting. He didn't try to sell me anything, just was curious about where I'm from and why I'm here. Since he owns a mountain biking shop I will probably go back and give him my business if I decide to bike this trip rather than the shop owners who try to coerce me into using their services. The tea was delicious by the way! Mmm I can get used to that. I'll probably try and bring some home with me, I passed a number of tea shops while wandering.

    I didn't get many pictures of Thamel, I felt as though I was one of the few tourists and didn't want to stand out too much. I'm still getting a feel of what the area is like! But here are a couple.
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  • Durbar Square, Kathmandu

    January 13, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After Thamel I made my way to Durbar Square, about a 20 min walk from my hotel. I feel as though that walk was more representative of what Kathmandu is actually like.... Along the route that I walked the earthquake damage was prominent. There were random crumbled buildings, streets with huge holes and piles of rubble, clearly less fortunate people, and overall a sense of.... Quiet and sadness, it definitely wasn't a bustling area like Thamel. But then, I did choose not to take main roads and instead saw what I think is more local life. Some streets I walked down didn't have a single other person on them, maybe a stray dog if anything. Never once did I feel unsafe in these areas, if anything I enjoyed them more than the bustling areas with the crowds and the people pushing to sell you things. I wish I could have taken photos here, but again I didn't want to be disrespectful. I will definitely not forget the extent of the damage though, or the 5'2" woman carrying bricks and rubble out of a damaged home into a truck. Or the pregnant lady with 4 kids who looked so sad. I stopped to talk to her and bought her some tea and milk, which she was grateful for. She invited me to her home but I declined, as I say, I'm still not entirely used to the city and don't know how these things work. She did seem genuinely sad that I didn't accept, gave me her phone number and insisted that I call her tomorrow to come over. Maybe I'm skeptical but I think that I'll be passing on going to random people's homes, although I have heard that to be invited to a Nepali woman's house is a great honour.

    When I finally reached Durbar Square and began looking around I was approached by a guide who wanted to give me a tour of the area. At first I didn't appreciate the intrusion but after chatting and haggling on a price (see I'm already getting better at this ;) ) I agreed to let him take me around. And I'm glad I did! I could have done as others did and read the map and information points but he showed me areas that I would never have dared go into on my own. His name was Rama. There's so much that he told me about the square that I don't know if I can remember it all! What really stood out to me though was the extent of the damage to the temples from the earthquake. You could really see what the effects are on unreinforced brick... Cracks in the walls of temples that were lucky enough not to fall down and piles of rubble for less fortunate buildings.. From what he explained Durbar Square is where people go to worship the different Gods. There is one for forgiveness, for knowledge, for lovers/finding a husband (he made sure to take me there and explain why I should take special note lol). Also in the square is the home of the living Goddess, a girl who is chosen from the people and lives there until her first menstruation. After her first period she returns to her family and apparently becomes a nun because "no man wants her". It's more of a curse than a blessing to be chosen for this role it seems. Another thing that stood out about the square was the abundance of sexual aspects and respect for the genders. There were many references to male and female parts in almost all of the temples, Rama explained it as "women have many talents that men do not and men have a few that women don't so they need to work together". Makes sense if you ask me! The other thing that stood out from what he was saying was the sacrifice of water buffalo... They sacrifice 108 a year (12 months x 9... Somethings that will come to me that makes 108 a lucky number). You could see the blood staining the temples.. There were lots of people there praying, ringing bells to bring mental acuity and awareness, leaving flowers, and eating candies made of sugar and seeds. Apparently tomorrow is a big holiday to celebrate the coming of longer days. Sounds similar to our Solstice, but something that everyone will be celebrating here. I'll have to make sure I get out and check it out tomorrow!

    After the tour Rama showed me a local artist shop because that's my new thing, collecting art or cookbooks from the places I go, and I picked up a handmade item showcasing the different months, virtues, and stages of heaven/hell a person can go through. They are painted by hand on cotton and will last for years apparently. The artist says that it is common to see these things hanging near the front door in Nepalese homes, I'll be sure to keep my eyes open when I'm next in someone's home!

    Rama also showed me to a good place to eat authentic food for a reasonable price on a rooftop patio. I invited him to join me and we each had a beer while I ate traditional Dal Baht (which was delicious and reminded me of Indian food but more diverse and with more components). The beer was pretty good and came in litre bottles, Gorkha it's called. We chatted about everything from Trump and Clinton (he knows more than I do oops) to his arranged marriage to how it's strange to see an independent woman in Nepal to how I need to be careful about people trying to win my heart for my passport. It was quite an enlightening conversation to be honest! He was very honest with me and confirmed what I had read on the internet. As he put it "a negative sentence can have a positive meaning". As in, he didn't want to scare me with what he was saying but clearly thought that I should know. He says that he's seen "accidents" (women falling for local men, men getting into their country, then men divorcing and breaking heart of women) happen to all kinds of people but never to a (North) American woman. Guess our ingrained skepticism is good for something after all. Apparently it is also a commodity to see a woman alone as typically Nepalese woman are very dependent and scared to travel alone even in their own city. This conversation explained the odd looks I have been receiving and the question I've been asked at least a dozen times today "you're travelling alone???" And why he thought I might like to leave an offering for the God that is supposed to find me a husband ;)

    Different culture, different values, very friendly! I quite enjoyed today. Exhausting as it was, I'm not used to walking so much clearly! Plus I'm also jet lagged clearly. I returned to my hotel before 5pm local time, sat down to rest a bit and woke up at 11pm... Missed meeting someone I had met earlier today to go see the Monkey Temple and everything. Now it's 12:30 and I'm fairly wide awake. I made traveller mistake number one: never get comfortable enough to fall asleep on day one of travelling! It's always worth fighting to stay up to get over that jet lag. Oh well, I'll pay for it later I'm sure.

    I should message the Volunteer organization I'm working with and let them know I've arrived. Perhaps tomorrow I'll try to find their office and also visit the Monkey Temple. On that note, I have told a few people who've asked that I'm volunteering rebuilding schools and the response has been overwhelming! People have been thanking me profusely for dedicating my time to help their people. And honestly, if the main city is still showing this much damage almost a year later I don't know what to expect from the rural areas I'll be travelling to.... We'll see soon enough I'm sure! For now, I'm going to try and get back to sleep... Try to fight this jet lag!

    Oh, and for anyone who was wondering, my cough is getting worse. The air pollution here is heavy. Combined with dirt roads that are constantly kicking up dust my lungs are not happy. I've been seeing lots of locals with masks to protect their nose and mouths and I'll be making good use of Scarves to do the same from now on!
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  • Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), Kathmandu

    January 14, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ 🌫 11 °C

    I started out the day being very lazy.. I finished my book over an extended breakfast and then later lying in bed. When I finally pried myself out of bed I decided I would venture out to a different area of the city to see the Monkey Temple of Kathmandu.

    The temple is about a 40min walk from the hotel and was, as per usual, an adventure. I walked through areas that definitely were not intended for tourists, but was the only way to get there. Again, for anyone who's worried, I didn't feel unsafe a single time. Curious looks were the most I experienced, and I'm always sure to be aware of my surroundings, never walking and texting always looking ahead. Dirt roads, garbage in the streets, random sheep and roosters, kids playing everywhere and stray dogs running around. I do have to say though, it's an endearing place in a way. The people are very friendly.

    The temple can be seen from the streets so getting lost is nearly impossible. Upon arrival there was many local people praying and giving their respects to the gods. Today is after all a festival. I hear from a number of people that today is the day that will set the tone of their year. To have good business today is to have good luck for the year. So once again I took a local up on his offer of guiding me through the sights and I'm really glad that I did! I've gotten better at this whole negotiating thing too, but honestly, the amount of information that these guides have is worth paying a small fee for rather than following a book around.

    There's so much to say about the temple that I'm sure I won't cover it all. At the base are the feet of Buddha. You touch them and are marked with the "third eye" (red dot) on the forehead for good luck. From there you proceed up the stairs (everything clockwise, never counterclockwise!). There are 365 steps, one for each day of the year. Along the way there are temples with... What are they called again? Cylindrical, metal objects with words inscribed on them that you spin for good luck. In one temple I was told to walk around the spinning cylinder 3 times, make a wish, and it would come true. Along the way the 5 Buddhas were represented in stone and there were monkeys everywhere - hence the name Monkey Temple. Here they are allowed to run free as they are considered holy. Apparently they can be quite aggressive but I didn't see any of that myself.

    At the top of the 365 stairs was where the crowds began... Of course where the primary temple was. Square in shape and with eyes on all sides to watch all parts of the city. The views were great! I also tried lemons that were roasted in some kind of spicy sauce, tasty but hotter than I'm accustomed to. Quite an interesting place but so many people that I quickly moved on. From there we wandered down and around the backside of the temple. We stopped at a fountain where people were trying to toss coins into a basket at the base of a statue within a fountain. To get the coin into the basket means that your wish will come true. The guide also took me inside a temple dedicated to the flute where locals were worshipping. I felt quite honoured to be able to witness it, and they were not offended at all. They greated me with the traditional "namaste" and wished me a good day. Again, something that I wouldn't have dared to do on my own without a local showing me the way. I definitely prefer this quieter side of the temple where few tourists can be found. I find the bustle... Irritating at times. But I suppose that can't be avoided in a city centre, probably why I don't live in Vancouver ;) Oh, I almost forgot one of they key points of the temple, it's shared by Hindus and Buddhists alike.

    The guide also showed me the 3 Buddhas, which I hadn't even heard of before. Definitely glad I got to see those! Quite impressive, all encased in gold and towering over the people. There was also an engraving describing the life of Buddha from birth to death that I found interesting. From there he showed me back to the base of the temple stairs that I had walked up originally, thankfully because I wouldn't have found it on my own I suspect. I enjoyed the walk back with little to no people present, just monkeys eating oranges off the trees and staring at us curiously.

    Back in the city, my guide (Prakash) showed me to a local place to eat which was great! They served chow Mein and some kind of spiced meat and vegetable dish that I would compare to a spicy orange chicken.. It's the only thing I can think of that is similar! I'm noticing that it's very easy to be a vegetarian in this city, possibly even a vegan. Every place I've been to has asked if I eat meat or not which I appreciate. The meal was incredibly priced, and makes me realize just how overpriced Thamel is. Which is still half to a third of the price of eating out in Vancouver...

    From lunch I went back to the hotel fully intending to rest and take a break from the hustle and bustle but I found myself in too good of a mood from such a great day that I grabbed my keyboard and went out to find a place to write this entry. Next "footprint" will tell where ;)
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  • Garden of Dreams, Kathmandu

    January 14, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I came to the Garden of Dreams looking for a place to have a cup of tea and update you all on my adventures. I haven't had the cup of tea yet but perhaps I will soon. The Garden is apparently a very popular place. I had read that this is where young couples come to show affection but I wasn't prepared for the number of people, not only young couples, but families, friends, and tourists like myself. I haven't seen a single Nepalese person take a photo yet this entire trip and in the hour that I've been here I must have seen at least 1000 photos taken. Young girls and lovers mostly. Posing in front of the fountains, trees, and archways. I suppose that compared to the rest of Kathmandu it a very relaxing and peaceful place. I personally was expecting more based on the high reviews that this place received on trip advisor and the recommendation on lonely planet. But then, I do come from one of the Greenest places in the world and I can definitely see the appeal to the local people! It is a pretty place. You can still hear the street noise but it is generally a bit quieter than the rest of the city. Again, busy for my liking when I was hoping for some quiet relaxation, would probably have found that in the courtyard at my hotel more easily. That being said, I do like to observe how people interact here! It's a social place, filled with people laughing and smiling. And looking at my keyboard strangely.. I suppose it is different. I'll have to take a picture of my setup somehow.. Considering my phone is also my screen I'm not sure how I'll manage that ;) Overall I suppose it was worth the visit for a place to sit around outside for an hour or so. Maybe I'll go get that tea now and read a book for a while.. And try not to fall asleep so early tonight! Need to come up with a plan for this evening. Tomorrow I meet up with the volunteer coordinator to get some more information about what I'll be doing over the next few weeks. As a tangent, I've been feeling very very relaxed this trip. It's perhaps the first time that I haven't felt pressured to rush through things and I've been able to be flexible, rarely checking the time, just doing what I feel. It's been liberating! A different way of life and travel for me but definitely an attitude that I may adopt more of at home: no worries, live with love, things will work themselves out eventually.Read more

  • Old Town, Kathmandu

    January 15, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    Fair warning: this post is a bit of a rant...

    Alright Kathmandu. I think I'm about done with you. It's a great city filled with amazing buildings, culture, and friendly people. But some of your people are driving me insane! I don't mind the hustle and bustle and packed streets, though I do still prefer the quieter areas. What is driving me nuts is the number of people who try to scam money out of me! The number of times I've heard the last few days "I'm not looking for money" or "I just want to practice my English" or "I'm just a friendly person" and then you turn around and ask for money? It's frustrating! It makes me skeptical talking to the people who are genuinely just nice people looking to chat. And, I did meet a few of those nice people today, and those nice people are the reason I don't totally hate things right now, the reason I'm still happy and had a great morning. But the rest of you are giving your people a bad name in my opinion. And maybe I'm seen as an easy target because I'm a white woman travelling alone, apparently have a friendly face, and am "innocent", but boy do I wish that you'd stop following me down the street continuing to talk when I say "no" or blatantly ignore you. Since when is saying "no" in a firm voice and walking away without making eye contact an invitation to keep talking?! I swear, I feel as thought I've been very rude to people today yet still they continue to pester me. And again, it's not everyone, and I won't judge based on a few select individuals (some of whom I have come to recognize and avoid on the streets actually...) Because I had a genuine conversation with two people today.

    One was a student who was legitimately curious about Canada and just wanted to hear about my country. He didn't ask for money or for me to buy him food or feed me any sad story; he showed me to the old part of town out of the goodness of his heart. He showed me the tooth God, the holy tree, the locals market, some old wooden houses carved from individual trees, explained the temples again (walk clockwise for good luck, ring the bell to wake up/bring mental alterness/notify the gods), and talked about why his faith was so important to him especially following the earthquake that left lots of people living in fear.

    The second was an older gentleman who recognized me as Canadian from the hoodie I was wearing (Whistler woo!) I stopped to talk to him because of that alone. I discovered that he was married to a Canadian woman once and lived in Calgary for a number of years. He's back in Nepal now to continue making jewelery but still visits Canada occasionally. We shared a cup of tea and talked about home and families, it's clear he misses Calgary quite a bit and was happy to hear about the country. He invited me to meet his wife and children but I declined. He also put me in touch with another solo female traveller from Holland, but being that I leave tomorrow I don't think that I'll get the chance to meet up with her. Again, a genuinely nice person that didn't try to sell me anything though I did ask to see his shop and saw something that I really liked. My decision there, no pressure.

    So, it's people like them that make me love the Nepalese culture and that's how I'm going to remember Kathmandu. It really is a gorgeous place, I love it. I'm just feeling a bit bitter right now towards all the scam artists. I'd still recommend a visit if anyone were to ask ;) Though I am ready to move on to the country side where perhaps there will be more authentic people and less folk trying to get money out of me. Afterall, I'm a poor student as well! Although not by their standards I know.

    Anywho, I'm back at the hotel now because I just couldn't deal with it anymore. I did find a nice cashmere sweater though along the way that will hopefully help with the cold. It's frigid in the mornings but warms up significantly as soon as the sun comes out! I also bought some tea because my hotel has a kettle and I keep thinking I need to go out and get some.. Maybe I'll try that after I finish the beer I bought myself before returning to the hotel ;)

    I'm not sure what this afternoon holds for me. I'm meeting the volunteer coordinator this evening to get more information about the placement I'm leaving for tomorrow. Maybe I'll try to find a place where I can meet some fellow travellers and see what their thoughts on the city are...
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  • Goodbye Kathmandu

    January 16, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ 🌫 2 °C

    This morning I leave Kathmandu and travel to Lamjung with the volunteer organization. I will be travelling with a lady from the town who is returning after having spent some time in Kathmandu. It looks like I am the only volunteer at this time. So, instead of helping with construction I will be assisting with daily tasks and probably teaching in the school. Originally, I had planned on volunteering in two places, but after speaking with the volunteer coordinator, I may stay in the first place for a longer time instead. He will be bringing a group of 10 volunteers from Japan with him to this first location in Lamjung in a few weeks, and a group will be able to do some construction work rather than only teaching. We'll just see how it goes I suppose :)

    The trip to Lamjung is supposed to be about a 5 hour ride by bus and then about a 2 hour walk up a gravel road to the town. If required, we can hire a jeep to drive us instead of walking. We'll see how my knee is holding up and how intense the walk looks. It's also supposed to be warmer there than it is here which will be welcome! It's quite chilly in the mornings before the sun comes out.
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  • Journey to Lamjung, Nepal

    January 16, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We took a bus from Kathmandu to Lamjung today. The trip in itself was an adventure! The traffic getting out of Kathmandu was ridiculous, backlogs and general chaos. Once we got out onto the mountain highway things were a bit better. The roads are incredible windy, narrow, and have very little in the way of barriers along the cliff edges. On our journey there we were on the opposite side of the cliffs, which means that the way home we will be entirely along the cliffs.... We took a "deluxe" bus instead of a normal bus and I am very glad for that. The deluxe bus wasn't bad but it still wouldn't compare to a typical Translink bus.

    The trip was supposed to take 5 hours but ended up being closer to 7. First we waited past departure because not all the seats were full, then we encounter traffic leaving Kathmandu, and then finally we encountered the worst traffic I have ever seen and I swear I will not complain about Vancouver traffic again! We're talking worse than the pre-port Mann traffic during rush hour. Satya (my guide for the day and daughter of the family I'm staying with) tells me it is because there is construction on the Chitwan highway and we were getting close to the junction. Roads I thought barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass each other were suddenly 3 deep and barely making it past one another without accident. At one point our driver squeezed through a space with barely inches on either side of the bus. Impressive, I would never want to drive here.

    The scenery once we left Kathmandu became very green and pretty, In a way the landscape reminds me of Italy with the plots of land for farming dug out of the hill sides. The highway seemed to follow a river and alongside the roads were multiple rest stops and restaurants aimed at travellers. Our bus stopped once for a washroom break and once for lunch. I used my first squat toilet... I'm sure I'll be seeing many more of those! Also along the highway are small homes. It looked like the first level of the home was on the road level and they built down into the cliff. Would love to be able to take a closer look one day. People were lounging at the front of the houses just watching traffic go by.

    When we got off the bus in Lamjung we looked for a Jeep to hire to drive us up to the village where Satya is from. Unfortunately we couldn't find one and had to walk... What the volunteer coordinator described as an easy 1.5 hour walk was really more like the Grouse Grind. With a heavy bag. Lovely. And it got dark half way through so we had to navigate with the light from our cellphones. Partway through Satya's father came to meet us and he helped me with my bag. I'm sure that the walk won't be so bad in daylight and without a heavy bag! In fact I'm looking forward to doing it and seeing the views instead of focussing on the ground in front of me.

    We arrived at Satya's home around 7pm and her family greated me warmly. We had a dinner of dal baht, which I really need to learn to eat properly. They are very lovely people and I'm happy to be here for the next few weeks! They have animals in their yard but I'll have to wait until morning to see everything :) The trip was long and exhausting and I am ready for bed right away. We'll see what tomorrow brings!
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  • Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 17, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today was a good day. I woke up early about 5am when I heard others in the house get up and start their daily routine. I slept soundly through the night in my own little room, the sleeping mat that Mom bought me really does the job! Felt like I was at home on my own mattress. Could be I was also very tired :) I wrote a bit, unpacked a bit, and then joined the family. I spent the morning observing and just taking it all in. I hope that they soon I will be able to help out around the place and earn my keep ;) There are 2 adult + 2 baby goats, 2 adult buffalo + a baby, and a number of random cats and birds.

    Breakfast was served about 9am and we had a their typical meal, very similar to dinner last night: rice with vegetable curry and baht as they call it. You mix all three together well and then eat. I need to learn how to eat with my hands as they do! They make it look so easy but I feel as though I would just make a mess. Can't hurt to try thought. After the curry and baht is finished then we add buffalo milk to the remaining rice as a kind of pudding, mixing in banana if we like! For breakfast we also had a sour yogurt that I assume was also from the Buffalo?

    After breakfast we walked down to the local school which is only about 10 minutes away. The children there were very curious and spent some time looking at me, touching my hair, exclaiming over my height, one kid even commented on my muscles.. Lol. There were maybe..... 30 to 60 students? Ranging from near toddlers to teenagers. It was hard to keep track everyone was moving around. They are preparing for a festival so no formal learning was taking place, all rehearsal of songs and dances. They tried to get me to dance but... Well you know me I don't dance though maybe I'll take this opportunity to learn. The school is a series of rooms, no glass in the windows, no lights, electricity through very skeptical means (wires running from a breaker to a power bar...) There is one computer there that the teachers use and otherwise everything is by hand. But the students were very proud to show me their school and work, it was really nice to see. I made the mistake of bringing out my phone at one point and I was swarmed. At first they wanted to see pictures of my home but then it was "what games do you have" and I thought for a moment I wouldn't ever see my phone again. The students are very curious about Canada, they keep asking about my family (Mother? Sister? Brother? Father? Married? Boyfriend? How old are you? Oh too bad.) I showed them pictures of all you guys hope you don't mind ;) Overall a great day, just wish that I could remember all the names that I heard today. I think I have two down.... Horrible. Especially because some kids keep asking m if I remember their names :( It will come I'm sure!

    After school was done I walked back to my home and nearly got lost. Thankfully someone noticed and showed me the way ;) Just sitting around now wishing I could do something to help but doesn't seem to be much that I can do... We'll work on that ;)
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  • Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 18, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Another good day today. Though I thought that being away from the pollution would have helped my cough, it only seems to be getting worse.. But, maybe I has to get worse before it can get better!

    At the school today was more rehearsal of dance and song for the performance. I really should find out when that is. In the afternoon all the students participated in a number of different games to keep active. Running races, soccer, volleyball, anything to get the blood moving. The cutest thing was the little kids games! The parents tied balloons to their legs and had them stomp them out, adorably. Wish I had had my phone on me to video it or take some pictures! But my phone was "dead" today. Too many students wanted to use it to play games. Looking at photos of home, okay but not games and movies and fighting over who gets to use it. So tomorrow maybe I'll forget it at home ;) After school two girls showed me a different way back that was literally a walk through the Jungle. So cool! The only problem with the place is that it's so hard to photograph, nothing looks as good in the photos as they do in real life!

    Oh, I should mention that I also learned to eat with my hand today. Actually much easier that I'd have thought! And clean. And actually somehow tastes better than using a spoon as I had been previously.. Maybe because now I'm feeling the food in addition to tasting it? Who knows! Next task to master will be the squat toilet... Or not. Maybe I'll just keep some of my western ways ;)

    I also had my first experience chasing a baby goat.. They aren't as heavy as you might expect. And it's day 3 of no coffee, no meat, no alcohol, no processed foods, only eating what is grown here. I look forward to seeing how well I feel after a few weeks of this!
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  • Parent Day, Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 19, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today was what they called Parent Day at the school. Parents were invited to come in the afternoon and see their children participate in a sports day type event.

    I learned that the school once had 200 children in attendance but now only has 50. This is because of young folk leaving to the city for further schooling and employment opportunities. As a result, there are many empty homes in the villages. This is also the oldest school in the area, being about 63 years old. The Nepalese use a different calendar than we do, while we are in the year 2017 they are in the year 2073. The first school system was set up in Nepal only about 75 years ago by Americans. If you're interested in the Nepalese calendar this link explains it: http://www.ashesh.com.np/nepali-calendar/

    So, to celebrate the school's anniversary students from two neighbouring schools came to us for activities. The students walked for 2 hours to get here. The activities started out with a "trivia" game where students from the different schools answered questions related to their studies in a contest... Why can't I remember the name of the show it reminded me of? First team to get the answer presses a bell and then answers? Anyway, the students were very into it and got quite noisy cheering.

    Next a girl from our school, Susana, performed a traditional Nepalese dance. It was beautiful! All the practicing they were doing all week really paid off. Part of the dance was for audience members to come up and put money in her hair while she was dancing. Most of the money ended up on the floor but it was the idea that counts right? Next a boy did a traditional dance and the same idea with the money. Wish I could have taken a video or something. But they sure know how to move! Dance and song is very important to their culture, they could hardly believe it when I said that it isn't really something that we do at home..

    After this there were some strength games involving a Bamboo pole that students and parents (and they tried to get me to do it! I dunno, seems like it would be bad for my knee...) had to climb to the top. Once a number were successful at reaching the top they put oil on the pole to make it more difficult. Not a single person made it to the top after that ;)

    Finally, there was a role call type event and all the students received gifts of money, new books, etc. They were all very excited! I hear that tomorrow will have even more people there to celebrate.. That will be interesting! I kind of just go with the flow here, not really understanding much. I am noticing that while people here pronunciate English very well and have a basic understanding, as soon as you say something slightly different then they have been taught they freeze and walk away. I think that some encouragement is needed to make them more comfortable with the language and not just speaking scripted conversations. Seems like they have only had one or two English teachers in the past that were fluent, most only had a basic knowledge.. So I need a game plan!

    Oh, one of their games was to hold a lit Candle and walk across the playing field without it going out! I've said it before, we're too uptight in Canada/US. These things would never fly, nor would the steep cliffs next to the school and playing field without any kind of walls to stop students falling. It's a learn by experience culture and breeds common sense.

    Satya was also as the celebration and we walked home before it was officially over to tend to some chores around the house. She showed me how to make Nepalese tea! Really quite simple, but delicious. Added to the kettle and boiled: water as required, 1 spoonful of raw sugar per cup of tea, about a tsp of tea leaves for 3 cups of tea. Pour through a strainer and serve! I took a picture of the tea that they use and will try to find some to bring home.

    After tea I helped Satya carry rice meal down to a neighbours place where they processed it on the spot to get rice! It was neat, I didn't know that's how it worked to be honest... This has been a real experience in really learning where food comes from, it's been great! There were streams of people bringing bags of rice meal for processing and I don't know how they measure how much rice you return with or how the man charges his customers but somehow we ended up with 2 bags of rice out of the whole thing. I also learned that the scarves the women wear serve a dual purpose and they use them to protect their heads from the ropes they use to carry the heavy sacs. Or, to makeshift a carry rope for a sac. The ropes sit on the top of your head and loop around the sac that is sitting on your back. So that the sac doesn't slip off you need to walk slightly crouched, but honestly you hardly feel the weight when it's carried like this! There was even a woman with a cane carrying a large bag.. Useful facts. The way of life here is full of things like this, useful, barebones, no fills living. Back to basics and I love it.

    For dinner Babita (mom of the house I'm staying at) made rice pudding, a special treat here. It's different than the rice pudding my dad makes, but equally as good! It is served hot and is literally rice cooked with milk and sugar. She also made a green leafy vegetable with garlic that honestly is my favourite. I think it's leaves from carrots? I'll find out..
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  • School Anniversary, Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 20, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Today was the big celebration at the school, celebrating the anniversary. The field was decorated with flowers and banners and looked quite nice. We showed up around 10am and I helped one of the teachers with editing some certificates that would be used later on in the celebrations.

    Around noon people started to arrive. From neighbouring schools and he community, looked like there were close to 400 people at one point? Maybe more, I'm not great at judging numbers. Even Satya and Grandma made their way down! It was quite the event. There were even people who had to travel by bus for an hour then hike 2 hours that made it. I found more people to talk with today as more people from cities made their way up and wanted to practice their English.

    The celebrations started with introductions of all the teachers that had made it from other communities. Then the remaining "guests" were invited up to the stage area to watch the festivities. I was included in that and was given a badge noting my guest status and a garland of flowers.

    The first activity was the pole climbing again! Except this time far more people participated, from the very young to the older gentlemen. I'm not sure who won the contest, I couldn't quite follow but I gather that's what drew a lot of the people from further away.

    Next, was dancing. I thought that yesterday's dancing was great, but today's was the real deal! Two girls danced, 4 girls sang, and one boy played a drum. That was what they had been practicing all week and they nailed it. Afterwards was a trivia game played by the women of the community, apparently relating to history, religion, etc. Clearly I couldn't follow but it seemed challenging. There were lots of uncertain responses and wrong answers it seemed. After the trivia was another dance performance this time with a boy and girl dancing in traditional dress. In both dances the audience members came and placed money in their hair while they continued to dance!

    I left before the festivities completely ended as it was more that I couldn't understand. I really wish I had a better aptitude for learning languages, would come in handy about now. I brought some biscuits back for Satya and grandma and made them tea. We found a "Intro to Nepali" book that I've been trying to study in the evenings.. But not working so well it's sounds are so different to anything I know. Dinner was good as usual and afterwards we sat and watched some tv for a while. Something about the history of the Hindu religion that I couldn't follow of course. Maybe soon!

    Tomorrow is a "holiday" equivalent to our weekend, though I think they may only have one day off. Satya leaves for Chitwan tomorrow which is actually quite sad, I enjoy her company! I had hoped to walk with them to Bhotewodar, the town at the base of the hill where she'll catch a bus, but my knees are giving me problems... Both are now painful while walking instead of just the one. I've been trying to take it easy and I really haven't been doing much but it doesn't seem to help. Wondering if part of it is all the sitting cross legged and squatting/crouching to sit and wash dishes etc I've been doing? In any case this is the worst possible place that it could happen. Not that I'm going to let it ruin my trip :)
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  • Free Day, Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 21, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was a "holiday", a day off of school. So I spent it by walking into Bhotewodar with Satya. She had a bust to catch back to Chitwan, back to reality I suppose! We chatted on the walk down and didn't rush too much. When we got into town we visited with someone Satya knew with whom she had also left some items she needed to bring to Chitwan with her. During our conversation we made plans that I will visit her in Chitwan, a large nature park in Nepal where I'd be able to see some wildlife. I'll have to figure out how this will work; debating skipping Singapore this time around so that I might visit her. It will all depend on if I can even change my flights of course.. Anyone have any thoughts?

    After Satya caught her bus I wandered around a bit but didn't get too far. I was uncomfortable with everyone staring at me and just wanted to be alone for a while. I picked up some sugar, oil, and chicken for Beda & Babita, and a beer for myself before walking back up. Round trip was just over 8km with almost 650m of elevation gain. When I was close to the top I stopped at a lookout point where I enjoyed my beer and listened to some music. It was a perfect way to spend the afternoon, I really enjoyed the downtime and haven't felt happier in a long time! Eventually I decided I needed to head back to the house and made the final climb which was the most intense part of course.

    When I got back home I had a "shower" with a bucket of water. Really makes you realize how much water we waste when we shower at home. We could definitely be more conservative! But, that doesn't change the fact that I'm looking forward to a proper shower again ;)
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  • Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 22, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    School again today! And I felt somewhat useful this time around ;) Now that the celebrations are over at school, classes are back to normal. Classes run in 40 minute sessions from 10am to 4pm. Much more logical time for classes to run than we had in school. I suppose it's partly because those are the middle of the daylight hours and apparently some of the teachers walk from town to school everyday.. That's dedication.

    I was given an English class and a Math class to teach; though I ended up being needed for something more urgent so didn't really get to finish either. Perhaps tomorrow I'll get to finish a class ;) Today I was needed for photo taking & editing for the "Class 8" passport photos. Then I was needed for internet research on a college website that was only in English and couldn't be translated. Honestly seems to be that my greatest skills to offer are those with computers and technology. I think mostly because the operating systems and instruction manuals for everything are in English so I'm able to navigate things easily. But, it's nice to be able to help! I struggle with the English lessons though and communication I'm general, I'm reminded of how I was taught French and how it wasn't really all that successful. Learning from books and learning to read text is all good but conversations need to be had as well! I try to engage students in conversation outside of classes and some respond very well and are eager to try and understand and others have no interest. Guess that's to be expected. Anyway! My own learning of the Nepali language is not going so well. I've been studying the basics but have such a hard time picking out words during conversations, most of what I get out of conversations is from body language. I do really like it here though! The teachers are lovely and I always seem to keep occupied somehow, even if it is just in deep thought ;)

    I'm starting to miss home a bit, mostly because I haven't had an in depth conversation with anyone since the random stranger on the flight to Kathmandu. Otherwise, being here is fantastic. I could see myself living this way to be honest. Maybe some principles will come home with me. I really haven't had any digestive issues or anything since arriving in Sirubari until today, some familiar pain returning. Must be either the alcohol or the meat that I had yesterday! I'm learning towards the meat though... Or the oil that it was cooked in. In any case, it's clear that I've managed to mostly eliminate my triggers and will have to keep it up at home! Randomly, writing about my day and what's going on here with me makes me miss home less. Knowing that there are a few people reading what I'm writing helps keep my sanity and English skills up to date ;)
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  • Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 23, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Today I learned exactly how inflexible I am. I've always had issues with flexibility but I didn't think I was bad as I am until trying to squat-sit for 3 hours... My back is killing me, my hips are sore, I need to stretch stat. It's just unusual positioning for us I suppose! At least I've accepted my limitations and can laugh with the locals ;)

    Today before school was corn husking.. The corn was from last season's harvest and has been sitting in storage so is dried out. It will be used to feed the Buffalo and make some flour and popcorn as well. Between grandma and I it took about an hour to get down to the cobs. Then after school we proceeded to take all the kernels off the cobs. That took 3 of us almost an hour and a half! Next step is to brig it to the mill but I think that'll have to wait until tomorrow as it's dark now. Like I said, I've really started to appreciate how much work goes into processing the food we eat on a daily basis.. In a way it's therapeutic to do it all yourself though I can't imagine ever having the time at home with our busy lifestyles. Especially when I decide to go back to school and work... Won't that be fun. ;) Another useful tool that they use here is... Not a clue of the name, but you can see it in the picture. It's a curved blade that you hold between your feet to cut things instead of using a knife. It is so much easier and works so well! Except of course that I can't see anyone at home using it in that manner. But, definitely works better than knives, in fact I don't think I've even seen a knife in their kitchen now that I think about it, I'll have to look at dinner.

    School today was a bit more productive and back to a normal routine it seems. I can't be certain, but it seems as though there are more classes than there are teachers. The teachers were in a staff meeting for the majority of the morning so I was off with Class 4&5 going over some English (and a few math) things. When there isn't a teacher for a blocked out lesson students self teach themselves from workbooks. Which personally I would have loved at school, but some of the students of course take advantage and just copy their classmates homework. Remind you of your own school days? It's challenging teaching the younger kids English I will say that! At the beginning there were some communication issues but I think I've figured out their level now and we had smiles going by the end of the class because they were mostly understanding the material. I was also able to put my computer skills to good use again today! And I was told that I need to stay longer so I can continue to help, felt like quite a compliment considering I don't think I really did all that much :)

    One of the highlights of today was finding a spot at the school that was private and also had a great data signal! Typically, I only get E for internet and it takes a good minute to load a simple Google search. And about 5-10 minutes for these posts to upload. But now I know the sweet spot so maybe I'll be able to call home more often! I talked to Mom for a bit and it was great to hear a familiar voice and to have a conversation in fluent English <3 Because of the time change it was about 9:00pm for her, if anyone else is ever available at that time let me know ;) Over WhatsApp or Messenger! Actually I think I can call regular numbers too using Hangouts.. I'll look into it
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  • Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 24, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Another day at school! Special food notes: Babita made this donut type thing called "sel roti" it was a nice treat first thing in the morning with tea! Spoiled again in the afternoon after school, she made popcorn from the kernels that were a result of the work we did yesterday. (Beda took the whole kernels to the mill first thing this morning) oh, and apparently I can handle more spice than I thought! I think I impressed the staff at lunch by eating two chillies without even thinking about it. I guess they're not used to us volunteers liking hot foods!

    A highlight of today was having the chance to talk to Alanna and also to Karolina! Short as the conversations were it was nice to hear from home, I'm going to have to find a way to sneak away from school longer so I can talk more!

    I definitely am enjoying school much more these last couple days, teaching English and helping with computers is exactly what I love doing. The computer part especially ;) Word + Excel + good company? Why not. It's fun! Mom sent me some photos of home yesterday so that I could show some students who were asking to see where I lived. They all say that it's a beautiful home, which I suppose it is! Sure does look nice in photos, though I thought I left my room cleaner than I did...

    Something that bothered me today was 4 girls saying that they were ugly because of their skin colour. That they wanted whiter skin to be prettier. I can't believe that that's still a thing. Four young, beautiful girls with self esteem issues because of their colour?! It makes me angry that they think that... I made sure to tell them they were beautiful of course but if I remember being their age, what I say won't change their minds.

    I had a chance to talk to Beda today about how long I'll be here for and I think I finally have a plan sorted unless things change again of course, which I'm totally open to, flexibility is key this trip ;) I'm going to Chitwan to see Satya from February 11-15 which gives me 2 days in Kathmandu before I leave for Singapore. I need those 2 days to do some shopping I've been putting off, to find a post office to mail some things home, to do some laundry, and to maybe maybe do a flight to see Everest and maybe maybe a downhill bike tour! I know I said I wasn't going to because of my knee, but... If it's holding up okay I really can't pass up the opportunity!!! Who knows when I'll get the chance to get back to Nepal, though I can tell you already that I would love to come back. The people are so peaceful and the life so healing that I would definitely come back. I also think that I will try to visit Pokhara in the next few weeks before I leave for Chitwan. Apparently only a day is needed to visit, though it is about 5 hours away (walking + bus). It's another city in Nepal that hosts the 2nd largest lake in the country and apparently is quite beautiful. I'll try to time it over a Saturday so that I can only miss 2 days of school instead of 3. Getting there will be interesting... The bus system seems chaotic. I'll have to ask for help! The time seems to be slipping by, with one Saturday dedicated to Pokhara (hopefully) I only have one free day to fill! And that will probably be filled with doing laundry... I do hope to be able to hike up to the top of the mountain range here as well though and take in the views. Maybe I'll see if one of the teachers would be interested in showing me, if I can communicate my request of course.

    Anyway, I've already said far more than I thought I had to say! Oh but a fun fact for you Gary, no I haven't found any of your herbs, but I did hear a rumour about mushrooms growing around here...
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  • Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 25, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Doing more and more teaching at school it seems. Today was math and computers! There is actually a computer lab here with 3 working computers. Students are supposed to be practicing typing but are more interested in drawing pictures on Paint. Getting them to focus on a task with the language barrier is difficult, but I suppose we manage to get things done. I should add though, that both Math and Computer classes are taught entirely in English.

    Instead of eating lunch at the school the female teachers and myself went into the Village to a Wedding Party. The ceremony itself was yesterday from what I understand, and today was the party where the entire village was invited to participate. The couple was seated in front of a circle of offerings, bowls made of leaves filled with money, food, and flowers. Above the offerings was a very pretty knit cloth suspended by four Bamboo poles also covered in leaves and flowers. Seating with the couple were two older gentlemen, who were reading something from a book. For obvious reasons I couldn't take pictures and no one I was with spoke English well enough to explain what was going on. It was pretty though! At some cue that I missed we were invited to eat. And oh man was there a lot of food! The Nepali sure know how to eat... It's too much for me to be honest. But of course to refuse or not finish everything on your plate is offensive. I've eaten more each day here than I typically do in two days at home.. At least it's all healthy foods. Hoping that I don't gain a bunch of weight as a result.. I'm not really worried though, all the people here are so thin and they eat like this all the time! After school, some of the male teachers went down to the celebration. I was invited to go again but I declined. Oh! On our way back from eating at the party, myself and one other woman were walking back along the stairs in the picture, and were nearly attacked by monkeys! She grabbed a stick and started waving it at them and they backed off.. If I had been alone I don't even know how I would have reacted because I didn't know they would have approached us! Wish I had been able to get a photo, yes apparently I'm one of those people ;)

    In the evening, one of Beda's relatives, cousin I think, came over to talk to Grandma. She speaks no English and I speak no Nepali but we were trying to communicate. Eventually I pulled out a book for those learning Nepali and she showed me the pronunciation of a few words so I now know a whole 10 words, better than the 1 I did before ;) Actually, in writing the language is starting to make sense but I still can't translate what's said orally. Probably the day I leave is the day I'll make progress :P
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  • Senior School Festival, Sirubari, Lamjun

    January 26, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today started as normal, breakfast, walk to school. Go to classes, sneak away for a phone chat with Kris and Anita, then as I was on the phone one of the teachers walked by me and invited me to go to a festival at the senior school. So I went, and acheived one of my goals of walking up to the top our our mountain peak! The walk was 1km in distance with 250m elevation gain. All stairs really, and hot!

    And, I cannot even begin to describe how amazing the mountains are. It's just not possible to capture them on camera either though I did try.. I thought that because we grew up with the Rockies in the background I'd be hard pressed to be awed by another mountain range, I wasn't really by the Alps when we were in Switzerland. But the Himalayan mountains are something else. In part I think it's because of how dynamic they are, there are peaks and valleys everywhere rather than a more consistent line. Or maybe it only seems that way because I'm right in the middle of them, but I don't think so, it's completely different than our mountains at home. Another thing is how the mountains have been tamed. There are settlements and farms carved into every hillside that you can see. I think that's what amazes me the most: the sheer durability and resilience of the people who have made these mountains their own.

    The senior School is much larger than the basic school I've been at. It has two levels and probably 30 classes? There were a ton of people there. There's also a couple small markets carrying the basics that people might need such as soap, notebooks, snacks, shoes, etc. The festival itself was very similar to the one our school had to celebrate it's anniversary. There were 3 different groups that danced: one traditional with two girls, one more modern with four boys, and a lovers dance with two boys and two girls. The students doing the traditional dancing were older than our students and a bit more fluid and synchronized with their movements. Both were lovely though! I really enjoyed the dance by the boys, they just had so much energy and creativity. I can't think of what to compare the dancing to, but it was like something you'd see in a music video but to Nepali music. The lovers dance was super cute, and it looked like the couples preforming it were slightly nervous which made it even better. It was a slower dance and was more similar to dancing we know at home with partners moving together as one rather than two separate people doing the same dance. The dancing is definitely a highlight of these festivals for me considering that I can't understand anything else. I am starting to differentiate between words now and can pick out words and recognize sentence structure but I don't know what any of the words mean! Which means I still haven't a clue about what they're speaking about.

    During the festival there was a man dancing in the background to all the student performances who appeared a bit... Off his rocker. He later approached me and starting talking to me about things and then said that he likes me, loves me, wants to marry me. I would have been uncomfortable had Bobita not been sitting right next to me laughing. She later explained that he's just "mad" and not to pay any attention to him. It was entertaining at least I suppose! On the walk home I received a second offer from a different gentleman (who was also joking as he's married and has grandchildren) to marry. I'm beginning to think it's a common theme because of our limited language skills; every woman I meet also asks if I am married. I didn't walk home with Bobita, but with another woman from the village and when we reached her home she offered me tea and water. Her children are students at the school so we tried to talk a bit but my Nepali sucks! From her house I somehow made it home... It was a new route for me and by some miracle, or a better sense of direction than I thought I had, I made it home first try, picking all the correct paths at forks. That was kind of fun though! Maybe I'll start exploring a bit more around here. The only worry I have is accidentally ending up in someone's yard. When I was walking with the locals we wandered through so many random people's properties, and I do see random people pass through our property too, but alone I wouldn't be comfortable doing it.

    I made it back from the festival later than normal, and Beda and Bobita followed shortly afterwards. Bobita from the festival and Beda from town. Bobita had a couple friends over for dinner and she made rice pudding again yum! Beda had gone to town and bought some chicken and some Nepalese wine. After dinner Bobita went down to the village to a friends house and Beda, one of his friends, and myself shared some of the wine. And for anyone considering trying Nepalese wine in the future, it is not wine as we know it! Oh boy that has a kick. He bought it direct from the person who makes it and it came in a big plastic bottle with no label. It was fresh so it was warm when we were first drinking it and I think I actually prefer it that way strangely.. To drink Nepalese wine you must also have some snacks that you eat along with it, "slowly slowly" so that the wine doesn't hit you as hard I presume. We had some carrots, spinach, and chicken as our snacks. And while snacking you talk. The card games came after the eating and drinking was done. Apparently, they usually play for money but because I'm learning we skipped it. Thankfully.

    Anyway, back to the wine. It's not wine as we know it, it's made from millet and the percentage is somewhere between 20 and 30 I think. The taste is different. Reminded me of a cross between Grappa and Sake. Maybe with some hints of Port in there... For those of you who know me, none of those drinks are something I enjoy the taste of, but I preservered and began to enjoy the taste after the first cup was finished ;) Thankful for those afternoons of Scotch tasting right now! Didn't enjoy that either at first and now love it soooo maybe this will be the same. But, because you have to walk over an hour one way to get the wine and then carry it up, I can't imagine that it'll be a common occurrence. But, the evening was quite nice and relaxing! Definitely much needed. Reminded me of home and hanging out at the kitchen table just having a good time..
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  • Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 27, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    Today it rained! And I loved it. It cooled down to what I considered a very comfortable temperature, but the rest were complaining about how cold it is. Cold enough that we were brought tea partway through the day by one of the ladies at the school :) Turns out Friday's are half days, so school ended about 1pm. I spent the day helping one of the teachers with some custom formatting in word/excel for report cards. New stuff for me too actually, but figured it out quickly enough!

    At home we had a quick lunch before the real rain started. In the time before the downpour, the sky was so clear that you could actually see across the valley to the other mountains! I hadn't realized how hazy it is here at other times. Pretty amazing. Then there was thunder, lightening, wind driven rain, and power outages. Pretty awesome actually. I love storm watching! After some time of watching the storm, Beda and I played a game of chess while he waited for the rain to clear so that he could go and cut some grass for the animals. I lost. But not horribly.. Just badly.. I think that it's been about 10+ years since I last played with Dad. But, oh well, it was good anyway, strategies will come back to me I'm sure.

    When the storm broke I was feeling restless and decided to go for a bit of a walk. I didn't go far but really wanted to just get out and move around. Starting to feel a little bit cooped up, not enough to do. But then at the same time, when I'm truly truly alone I absolutely love it. Like when I was walking and there weren't other people around or now when I'm writing just sitting alone. I really am happy with my own company. Good thing too else I'd be completely bored I think. With my luck, the rain started again while I was still walking. So when I got back home I curled up on my bed and got warm again, reading my book until dinner. After dinner I chatted outside with Bobita about random things for a while before heading to bed. Was good bonding time, she invited Mom and Dad to come visit as well!
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  • Free Day, Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 28, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Today started off easily enough, read my book for a bit, "showered", breakfast. I then walked to the next village to one of the teacher's homes because Beda and Bobita had other things to do. I wasn't entirely sure why I was going, and the directions I was given to get there were "follow the road until you see someone to show you his house" lol. Thankfully I did find it no problem! There was someone leaving who showed me where to go. When I arrived, I picked up what I had been sent for, mutton. I guess today was slaughter day.. Must have something to do with some party I heard is going on today. Pretty sure that I don't like mutton but I guess we'll see. Along the walk there I was able to talk breifly with Mom before the signal faded!

    When I returned home I decided I needed to do some laundry. Finding the cistern was a challenge, apparently I just don't understand directions very well.. Or I don't understand the difference between a big tree and a medium sized tree, but hey. But once I did find it I started washing my clothes. And didn't have enough laundry soap of course. So I used a bar of soap meant for the body and it worked well enough! After I figured out how the heck to wash clothes properly without a sink... Pretty sure I didn't do a very good job on some items. I also understand now why a lot of people don't bother with socks here (they all wear sandals 90% of the time) even when it's cold. Because they're impossible to clean! I will be following suit now and dealing with cold feet instead of the struggle of washing socks that just don't get clean. Thankfully, I only brought black socks so you can't really tell that they're still covered in dirt. They smell fine though :p Once the clothes dry we'll see how successful I was with washing them.. While I was doing my laundry a goat tried to eat some socks! It was kind of comical but frustrating at the same time haha.

    When I was back from washing clothing, there was no one at the house and I took the opportunity to just relax. Wishing I had some beers to drink, but not enough to walk down to town for them! So instead I read my book, did some stretching and other exercises. I can feel myself getting more flexible in some ways, like the hips even though they ache, and in some ways I feel tighter, my calves in particular. And my back aches, but pretty sure that's just muscles getting stronger..

    At some point in the afternoon Bobita came back to the house to make some tea and I went with her down to the celebration. I'm not entirely sure what this one was all about... Some girls tried to explain it and I think it's something to do with honouring women. Grandma was there and received a blessing of some sort in front of the... Blessing area? One pro of letting the girls use my phone for photos meant they took one of the area I'm talking about so I didn't have to be the offensive stranger taking pictures of everything ;) This one was more elaborate than the one at the wedding party, but the same idea. Offerings of food, money, flowers, in bowls made of banana leaves all placed under a knit cloth draped from 4 poles decorated with leaves and flowers. I'm starting to notice a clear separation between men and women in al public events. There is very little mixing of the sexes, the women all sit together and the men sit together. The children drift between the two groups but tend to stay with the women. Or, like today, with me. They're fascinated by me and honestly I'm okay with their company because it's so easy to talk to children. All they want to do is learn and have fun, if the conversation isn't all that intelligent well that's okay. There is one brother and sister in particular that just melt my heart, children of one of the teachers. The little boy always comes and sits with me and the girl is always explaining what's happening and showing me around. Makes me think of having my own one day ;) oh! And the children gave me these little fruits that were super sour and delicious and I wish that we had them at home! Called lapsi I believe.

    For dinner we had the mutton.. Definitely not a fan. But I tried!
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  • Holiday, Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 29, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today was great.

    It started out in confusion because I had no idea it was a holiday until breakfast time came and went and we hadn't eaten and I was dressed for school and no one else was. Then I learned about the holiday. I was kind of down at first thinking that I could have used these two days off from school to visit Pokhara. But, I'm glad that I was here for this today!!

    Today was a religious celebration, all about worshipping God and also about young boys who have now "come of age". The name of the holiday sounds like "ekka" but of course I can't find the actual spelling online. The boys are around 7 years old and receive a holy string tied around their neck that they will wear as long as it stays on. My teacher friend showed me his from when he was a boy as he was explaining this to me. It also means that the boy is old enough to take on the families responsibilities should something happen to his parents. Seems a but young to me, but it makes sense!

    At first when I arrived I was sitting alone, unsure of what was going on, thinking that if I snuck out no one would even notice. But then I got into it. I started just watching people before things got underway and I was surprised how easy it was for me to pick out the locals from those who had come from the city. There's a different attitude or way about them perhaps. Their mannerisms and way of dressing are slightly different. But in any case, everyone was wearing their best clothing! I felt a bit scrubbish considering all I brought are travel clothes, but I already stand out so eh. The number of people packed into the place was insane. Hardly any personal space, which isn't a thing here anyway. I'm beginning to get used to being crowded, leaned on, used as a handrail, etc.

    As the celebrations started there was a mad rush of people to the "offering" area and I felt crowded out, clearly not entirely sure what was happening. Then an older gentleman, seeing my confusion, gave me a leaf that others were clamouring for, blessed it with a rice water mixture and explained that it means "God Bless You". We held the leaves hands in prayer position for a moment of silence and then the leaves were collected by someone in the crowd. A few people also gave monetary offerings when returning their leaves.

    Next, the two boys who were receiving their holy strings today walked around the crowd accepting offerings of rice and money. They were dressed in formal clothing and had their heads shaved aside from one small area, almost like a tail? During this time I started chatting with someone from Kathmandu, an English teacher who did his Master's in English Literature so we were able to talk easily! In part why the day was so great, it was very nice to have an in depth conversation :) During that time Bobita called me away to eat with her and some friends hidden away from the party. We ate a lentil curry out of banana leaf bowls with naan type bread. And we had some bananas, pears, oranges, and sel roti as well. The fruit is so refreshing, grown without chemicals and tastes nicer than at home. The carrots do too.

    Next, a boy and a girl both dressed traditionally, sat on a bench and folk came up to them, gave them tikka until their entire foreheads were covered, and gave them money as well. Some of the women left with clothing, the tops that the women wear. Not sure exactly how the system works but was interesting to watch.

    At some point, my new friend returned and we began chatting again. He explained the next part of the ceremony to me which began with a woman ringing a bell, everyone sitting and chanting/clapping for a few moments before the Preist began talking. From what my friend explained it sounds like sermon and was about meat and Krishna and a few other things. This friend isn't all that religious apparently so we talked about spiritually, cultural differences, more volunteer opportunities, struggles of the political system here, etc etc. We exchanged emails so that we might stay in touch. He is in need of English speaking teachers at their school if anyone is interested ;) At this point, if I didn't already have plans to move on to Singapore next I probably would have accepted. I really do love it here.

    At some point the "sermon" ended and I was invited to eat. I went up and found two other teachers also eating, including my teacher friend as I've been calling him. In case anyone is wondering, yes I do know their names, but not how to spell them properly. I'll have to find that out before I leave. They took me under their wing from that point on, almost protectively, and helped me get some food, wash the dishes, hands etc. Interesting how the eating system works. While we were eating there was a group of people holding back, seemingly waiting for us to finish before they moved to the eating area. One woman took a photo of me... Random. Someone said to me that I looked very "sweetie" today as well, and I'm still not sure if they meant sweaty or sweet lol. But since I wasn't sweating, I assume that they meant sweet and I take it as a compliment! I was also called a very nice girl and very sporty looking. Must be the lack of stress making me just look happy, no more resting bitch face? Haha <3

    After eating the three of us walked back down to the celebration area and waited for the next event. I felt included at that moment, not the solitary stranger looking in on someone else's event. That feeling of inclusion was furthered when my new Kathmandu friend sought me out again to continue our conversation. He explained the next event to me, the burning of 100,000 holy threads! Apparently a whole group of women helped to make these threads from cotton and it explains what grandma has been making since I've been here but haven't been able to ask. The threads were lit on fire and people clamoured to get a bit of the warmth from the fire, or the warmth of God entering them. Of course the group was packed so tight around that we really couldn't see much, so my local teacher friends snuck me around the back to the other side with less people. Here I was able to get a glimpse of the holy threads through the people dancing and singing around them. I took a short video, but of course my timing was off and I seemed to catch the ends of songs only. I felt comfortable taking the video because my teacher friend encouraged it, no longer the out cast but accepted. The other side of the property I discovered was not hard clay, but Bamboo poles embedded into the clay and covered in straw and mats. I almost fell through once and had to be very careful with my steps. Amazing how strong Bamboo is! Wish we could use more of it at home.

    I was actually sad when it was time to leave.. I suppose I could have stayed, but I think that Beda and Bobita were worried I wouldn't find my way back. And, I'm happy I did go when I did because they needed to get back quickly so I stayed behind with Grandma and we walked slowly back up. She's incredible that she can manage those steps so easily at her age! In general, I'm impressed with the mobility of people here that we just lack at home. Even the man with an amputated leg who uses crutches gets around efficiently and quickly. Mad respect.

    When we were home I started to write this entry and got distracted, feelings of inclusion continuing. Beda and I finished the wine that we started earlier in the week and talked about various things from travel to past volunteers, to family relations, to relationships, future plans, etc. It was quite a nice way to spend the evening. We did also play another card game which I lost, but not horribly at.

    I am definitely loving my time here more than ever now that I've become accustomed to the change in pace, am making friends, and understanding how things work. I honestly am already sad that I'm going to have to leave pretty soon. I could see myself living here I think. But don't worry Mom, I'm still coming home ;) I'll just be back to visit in the future I'm sure! It'll be interesting to see how the next segment of my trip goes, it'll be very fast paced in comparison to this relaxed, stress free life I've been living recently. All part of the journey!
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  • Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 30, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Not much to tell from today! Today was another school day, report card day actually. I taught some English and helped some students with Science and had an amazing phone call with Alanna! We finally had a chance to talk for more than a few minutes and had a strong signal. I'm not feeling all that great today and I can't be sure why. Only had a glass and a half of the wine last night and didn't really feel it, so can't be a hangover? I dunno, it does seem to be cold and flu season here.

    Kayla just for you I've included a photo of the mushrooms that one of the classes is growing! Pretty impressive for only a few days
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  • Sirubari, Lamjung

    January 31, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    This morning started out somewhat differently, there were two engineers (presumably from the government) who came by the house this morning to inspect the damage from the 2015 earthquake. Apparently this is the first time that they've been up to the village, almost 2 years later! They took a number of photos and for the first time I looked closely at the house I'm staying at while walking through with them. Because, why not. There's a fair amount of shear damage at the corners of the buildings and one portion of the building separated a bit, but to my eye it doesn't look too too bad. But, of course, I'm not an expert and have zero experience with this type of construction. Have I mentioned before that the construction is a clay-concrete type for the main walls? There are some wood posts as well and the floors and food are timber as well. Corrugated metal roofs and of course no insulation, but the mass walls do a good job of regulating the temperature. It's dark now but I'll see if I've taken any photos I can post!

    At school today I felt very productive but also experienced some of the frustration I imagine the locals must feel somewhat regularly. I spent the entire day in the computer lab, getting things working smoothly. Originally there were 3 working computers and now there are 5 maybe 6! We'll test the 6th one tomorrow if the power has come back on... That's the frustrating part. The power went off before lunch and didn't come back on all day, still isn't on in fact and it's almost dinner time. Apparently sometimes the power will be out for weeks without warning.. I expected the outage when the storm came a few days ago but today has been perfectly calm and clear! No indication of what caused it. So anyway, with the help of Kevin and Jason I was able to figure out how to install programs on various computers by copying files from one computer without internet or install disks. I was also able to adjust a few settings that until previously they had just dealt with, things like resolution, incorrect drivers, etc. The two computers that we for sure fixed had corrupted memory so we swapped things around until they worked. One of them still requires a registry edit before it works perfectly and the other insists it needs a windows service pack installed, which we don't have, but otherwise success. The 6th computer which we think will work was just a matter of switching out the power supply boxes. I have to say I've learned a lot about hardware today that I didn't know before. Surprised at how well things went... I also went through and tested a number of different mice, keyboards, speakers, power cords etc, to see if they're still working. Though that became tough to do as the power was out. Still lots left to do to get things running smoothly including more software installations and finding mice and keyboards for two of the computers that are working. There are so many broken accessories here it makes me a bit sad. They definitely need all the help they can get when it comes to getting hardware. It's good that they have such a great computer teacher! He doesn't give himself enough credit, but he's quite skilled with computers and ingenious in getting things to work. I was just lucky to be raised on computers...

    As I write this the power is still out and it's getting dark. For the first time I can't see lights across the valley, and there's no radio playing from down in the village below. I have a power bank to keep my phone charged, but I haven't a clue how full it is lol. I'm perfectly content if the phone does die though! The only thing I really need it for is writing these posts, taking pictures, reading my book, calling home.... You know ;) But, there are worse things than being disconnected I'm finding. Partly thinking it might be a good thing to completely disconnect for the evening.. Might just go put it away right now :)
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  • Worship Day, Sirubari, Lamjung

    February 1, 2017 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Welp. Let me preface this post by saying that the Nepalese wine is starting to taste like water and I wish I hadn't left my headlamp at the house, walking back in the dark from town is no joke!

    So today was not technically a school day, it was a day of prayer at the school which some teachers showed up to and some didn't. Some students were there and some weren't. Because I'm not of their religion they had me take pictures of those who did show up, a very neat experience! The whole process was called Puja. They set up a poster of one of their Gods, and made offerings of water, flowers, a branch in excrement, fire, etc. Beda led the prayers and the students were all attentive. There was tikka involved as well, and everyone was excited! At one point the flame caught the poster on fire but a quick student put it out. Not before it caught a portion of the hill on fire though... The staff were largely unconcerned, and there was no panic by anyone while the situation was assessed. When it started spreading up towards the playing field a few students broke branches off a bush and wacked the flames out. I was very surprised by the lack of concern, but I guess this is a common thing in the dry season and usually the fires burn themselves out... Very impressed with the lack of panic too! Definitely pays to be calm ;)

    After worship we returned home to eat as we hadn't yet today. Then Beda and I walked into town together. Didn't really know why we were going when we went but it was something to do instead of sitting at home, so I kept him company. He showed me the bus stop where I'll catch the bus to Pokhara next week and explained that it will be very easy for me to find the bus. Apparently because I'm a tourist the drivers will be very vocal about their destination because they think they can over charge me. Which I was expecting, but I now know that the price should be about 250-300 NPR so I won't be scammed ;) We walked around the town for a bit and I saw so many things I want to bring home but don't have the space for :( the woven stools for example that everyone here has and the water "jugs" everyone uses. They just take up so much space but are so practical and useful! Maybe I'll check to see if I can get them at home.. Or just suck it up and pay the shipping fees.

    Anyway, in town we stopped by the English Teacher's home where he lives with his wife and children. I think that he stays in Sirubari during the week though because I see him most mornings coming from the village not from Bhotewodar. From the calendar on his wall it would appear that his children go to an English Boarding school? Anyway, he made us a pancake like pastry and tea before we went out. He and Beda had some business to discuss in town, sounds like they're trying to buy some land and build a house in town instead of living in the village but it's expensive and there are tight regulations about where you can build. While they discussed, I read my book and observed the people. It's definitely beautiful there! I wish that it could be captured on camera properly, the extensive fields, some cultivated some wild and overrun with flowers. A house here and there, cows and goats randomly grazing, the occasional person harvesting vegetables. All with the mountains in the background and the sound of the river overriding the traffic noise. It was very peaceful and serene, definitely not a bad place to spend an hour!

    On our way back to Sirubari we ran into one of Beda's friends from the village, the same one we played cards with the other day, and the three of us had a bite to eat. It was incredibly spicy chicken! Thank goodness I can handle spice because it was hot! Delicious, but hot. I think I surprised the locals there by being able to handle it because they all watched my first bite haha. While we were eating, the girl working there brought glasses of what I thought was water. Thankfully I didn't take a big sip right away like I wanted to! Becuase it was wine. That was a surprise haha. I feel like I'm adapting pretty well to the local culture here, but there is still one thing I struggle with: when chicken is served, it's diced without being deboned first, and you're expected to eat everything aside form the bone, including the cartilage etc. I just can't figure it out, nor want to risk my stomach rebelling. So I leave far more behind on my plate than the others but oh well. Anyway, after finishing our two glasses of wine and our meal we proceeded onwards.

    We ran into another person returning to the village on the way and he joined our crew walking back. We made a pit stop at a house along the way to purchase some more wine. We stayed there and had a glass or two before continuing back home. As a result of our frequent stops we watched the sun go down and then the daylight fade (it stays light for much longer here after the sun goes behind the mountains that it does at home) We ended up making the final walk in the dark! It wasn't so bad by moonlight until we got into the steep steps in the trees where there's hardly any light. Thankfully I had a bit of a charge left of my phone and was able to use my flashlight. Next time I go to town I'm bringing my headlamp!! So one light for 4 people, but I think they're all used to it, just me who's a pansy and worried about breaking an ankle ;)

    When we finally made it home we ate, I did the dishes, and we watched some TV. Sounds like tomorrow Beda is going to a nearby town to pick something up for the school, about an hour from Bhotewodar by bus. I might go with him and see some more of the area! Though honestly that means one less day at the school and that breaks my heart a little bit. There are still things I want to do with the computers before I go!! And friendships to continue building. Definitely wish I could stay longer! It'll be sad when I leave, but maybe I'll come back one day :)
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