• Nipawin
Mar – May 2024

Scotland to Spain

A 60-day adventure by Nipawin Read more
  • Trip start
    March 9, 2024

    Vancouver to London

    March 11, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    I flew from Vancouver to Calgary and then on to London via a WestJet 787 Dreamliner.
    Easily walked through customs no lineup at all. Found the Piccadilly Sub and went to Kings Crossing.

    I caught the 1600 train to Edinburgh however it arrives at 21:30......5 1/2 hours. They are doing maintenance work on the line unfortunately.

    So a long day. It is very wet and cold here. People are complaining about the weather.

    Fingers crossed it is supposed to be nice this week.

    Found my hostel after walking a km from Waverly Station.

    Very clean , cosy and quiet🤗💕
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  • Edinburgh to Dunblane

    March 11, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Took the train from Edinburgh to Dunblane. Joanna is going to pick me up which saves me a walk of 2 km after a bus trip😉

    Very cloudy, dreary and cold.
    Beautiful countryside and sooooo many sheep

  • Solitude to Sightseeing

    March 26, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    I completed my 2 week Retreat in the midst of a forest. Owls were my night time companions lulling me to sleep with their to calls. Various birds sang to awaken me.

    I then travelled down to Edinburgh where I took in some sights. What a beautiful city. I would make it a destination next time.

    I am en route to London and then on to Cologne Germany.
    I am so excited as I will be greeted by the end of this day with my Camino Del Norte friend Anja 🥰
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  • Niederweimer Germany

    March 26, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    Arrived in Marburg at 2045 pm. Very long day starting at 4am. from Edinburgh.

    I had smooth flight connections but found the train system challenging in Germany. I accidentally missed getting off at a stop but a kind woman happened to glance at my ticket and told me to get off and go back a stop.

    This mistake added another hour to my trip but at least I made my connecting train at Frankfurt. Who knows where I would have ended up!

    Anja was at the train station to take me to her home. It is a ten minute drive away.

    The next day we walked around her neiborhood and went to see where both of her daughter's worked. One works TCA clothing store and the other on a farm..

    We went to Marburg the next day to see the castle that the famous Saint Elisabeth lived in. Then we climbed the messenger tower ( 140 steps) across from the castle to see views of Marburg and the surrounding area. We had coffee in an adorable cafe at the bottom of the tower.
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  • Torte and Cafe

    March 29, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌫 11 °C

    Raining and very gloomy. Decided to take a walk in the woods as Anja was not feeling very well.

    Afterwards Anja drove me through beautiful little villages . She once worked with an architect and showed me very old homes that were restored.

    We stopped at an adorable cafe for coffee and a slice of cake. There were so many to choose from.
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  • Chickens on the Run

    March 30, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We left at 10 this morning to go to a quaint cafe and garden.

    On the way, Anja pointed out a chicken camper in a field. The people that Lilli works for move there chickens (by flatbeds on trucks) to different areas so they can be free range. They have 7 campers and 5,000 birds!!!

    The eggs that they collect are sent to the factory to be hardboiled and covered to preserve them for 3 weeks!!
    They put goats in with the birds to go after the Hawks that try to get the birds.

    We went to a Hardware Store that has the sign meaning, "Where screws live."

    We toured the small garden at the cafe and came home.

    Lilli is very busy making raised beds for her vegetables and planting many seeds.

    Madrid tomorrow!
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  • Madrid to Leon

    April 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Flew from Frankfurt airport to Madrid. I then took a train to Leon .

    I didn't take many pictures as it was raining and very cold.

  • Leon to Astorga

    April 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I took the bus from Leon to Astorga. I arrived early so was able to have time to walk around.

    Saw the Gaudi Palace. It looks like a castle out of Disney.

    Sunny day. Leaving tomorrow to walk to Rabanal. I am very excited.Read more

  • Astorga to Rabanal 20.9 km

    April 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Had breakfast with 3 women from Toulouse France. Excited to start walking again.

    Great day with beautiful scenery. I was very tired at the end of 20.9 km. I was greete enthusiastically by Fiona and Andrew who were Hospitalaros from the UK.

    They served tea and home made treats at 5 pm. They started a wonderful fire for us as it became chilly as soon as the sun went down.

    The showers were wonderful!! I met pilgrims from Spain, Germany, USA New York and the UK.

    I saw maybe 12 pilgrims during the walk today.
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  • Rabanal to Molinesca 26.75 km

    April 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Had a great sleep and breakfast tostada with marmalade.

    Gave Fiona and Andrew big hugs and headed out

    So the up was very wet and muddy due to Spring runoff.
    The down was extremely challenging because of the jagged awkward rocks making one very slow in maneuvering them. It seemed to go on forever.

    Beautiful views of the different valleys. Snow on mountaintops.

    Wild flowers are blooming all over including Heather. I am really enjoying Spring here.

    Still not too many Pilgrims. It kind of reminds me of the Primitive trail minus the horrible rocks .

    Cruz de Ferro was a. Huge disappointment for me as I was expecting it on the top of a mountain and it is not at all like that. One lady I met actually thought it was something else as the Cross on the very top w.as so small. Needless to say she didn't leave a rock there. I did with my message.

    So far this walk is nothing that I thought it would be.....very interesting to see what tomorrow brings.
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  • Molinesca to Cacabelos 20 km

    April 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was an eventful day as I saw 2 burros and my very first Stork!!!

    The road today was mixed asphalt, cement and dirt roads.

    I continue to soak up Spring in Spain. The greens, buds on trees and numerous varied blossoms. The wild red and orange poppies, forget me nots, lilac and other flowers I do not know the name for.

    It was quite a wet day but I was able to enjoy a delicious sandwich under cover at a bus stop 😉

    My supper was 7 delicious fresh churros🥰😍😂
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  • Cacabelos to Trabadelo 19.27km

    April 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Clear and warm this morning.
    Passed fields and fields of vineyards.

    It was beautiful to see them so well maintained.

    Didn't see very many Pilgrims until Villa Franca
    It was very busy there. I had a wonderful tortilla de patata.

    Sunday is generally very quiet and many stores are closed.

    The sun got quite hot towards the end of my walk.
    The albergue is very clean and offered a home cooked meal of butternut squash soup, roasted chicken and an orange for dessert.

    I met 3 pilgrims that had walked 35 km today!!! Amazing 👍

    I was able to catch up on my journal and relax on the patio enjoying the sun.

    Very cute town with very interesting old casas. One looked like it was a Hobbit House🤗
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  • Trabadelo to O Cebreiro 21km

    April 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 5 °C

    So started out raining lightly. I brought an old raincoat that I used previously on the West Coast Trail.....well....it wasn't as water proof as I thought🥴

    Anyway, I felt good and things were great until the light rain became a Classic Galicia Downpour!!!! Luckily there was a bar that was open after walking in it for an hour.

    My 3 German friends stopped there as well. We decided as a group to press on to the next village 5 km away.

    It was so muddy and impossible to keep ones feet dry🥴

    When we reached the next Village it stopped raining and the sun even came out. Christian said she wanted to keep walking with me as our paces were similar.

    We headed out after eating ( tortilla & cafe con leche) and this is where things started to fall apart.....

    It started to rain and the trail was extremely muddy and getting steeper and steeper. We knew of we held on that La faba was 7 km away and there was an albergue there.

    We arrived there and it was just pouring!!!! I was soaking wet ( should have brought my Camino rain gear 🥶) and we found out the Albergue didn't open until 2 pm.....it was 12 noon.
    There was nothing open in this town.....so....we decided to keep walking.

    Up and up and up....the rain turned into sleet......then into snow.....but we kept trudging along. We didn't have a choice to stop anyway. I did briefly to snap a few pics but honestly the low cloud hang obliterated the magnificent view!!

    This is the highest altitude on the whole Camino.

    We finally reached our Albergue at 2 pm. Shortly after arriving it started to snow even heavier. I saw a big snowplow that had been on the highway I think?

    No stores were open so I settled on an Empanada.

    We were able to dry our clothes but my boots are not really dry. I hope tomorrow they will be better.

    The Albergue has 18 pilgrims or so.....It is toasty warm which is wonderful There are over 60 beds in one enormous room.

    This has been quite the day!!
    But shoutout to Merino wool and my Injinji socks!!!!! No blisters and I kept my core temp warm even though I was drenched.
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  • O Cebreiro to Lusio 28.9 km

    April 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    So it snowed more overnight. Christianne was nervous walking by herself and wanted to walk with me again. We headed out with our headlamps. It was a winter wonderland. I loved every step. Christianne is a "Drama Queen" and was exclaiming loudly when faced with a hill.

    As we reached another summit it ended with a bar being open!
    I ate a huge piece of tortilla Patata. I saved the rest and the huge slice of bread for later. I am so glad that I did in hindsight.

    We parted ways as Christianne is always wanting to be on the go.....me not so much and wanted to take a break to take off excess clothing.

    I arrived in Triacastela. Very touristy town. I went into the Supermercado and was told to leave my pack outside. I understand that however the woman was not friendly at all.

    It was just 12:30 and I didn't have a good feel for the town to spend the night and decided to continue on.
    It was a beautiful path by the river.
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  • Sarria 20.9 km

    April 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I woke up at 6 am. I was quiet so as not to disturb the Italian woman even though she woke me up at 10 pm chatting with someone....
    Then all of a sudden she leapt out of bed and switched on the big light!!

    I was happy because I could pack up by the big heater in the room instead of the freezing cold kitchen.

    She was raring to go in minutes, and wanted to wait for me but I declined.....I needed my coffee first.

    It was a cool but beautiful morning. I knew Samos would have a bar for breakfast and that was 6 km away or so.

    I reached Samos and no bar was open. Walked on and there wasn't a bar until Sarria!!! But I was fine....just disappointed.

    Anyway..... I only saw one man from my O Breiro group. The others must have taken the alternative shorter route.

    I saw 2 huge storks in a field and the cutest Burro. I don't have a picture of the Burro because the Man said NO!!!

    I arrived at a hostel I have stayed at previously that I love. Hot showers cosy warm private beds, great kitchen, and close to the bus and train.

    I will rest tomorrow before going to Ponferrada
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  • Rest Day 160 km completed

    April 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Had scrambled eggs for breakfast and headed out to find a place in the sun to catch up on my journal.

    Gorgeous day.

    Had my lunch on a park bench listening to the birds.

    Got my things ready for tomorrow. Fewer pilgrims are staying tonight perhaps 6 or so.

    Saw a dozen pilgrims uptown...certainly the numbers are increasing.

    Off to Ponferrada tomorrow.
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  • Building mural
    Walls at LugoVilla Franca City HallSide of churchCool streetBig tree in midst of village

    Sarria - VillaFranca-Ponferrada

    April 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Got ready to leave for the bus. Spoke to Fernando who is a Pediatric Hematologist from the Southern Phillipines. His flight was 25 hours. He starts walking tomorrow.

    Going to Lugo switching buses then on to Villa Franca to check the church out. Unfortunately it was closed.

    I missed the 12:30 bus out of Villa Franca so had to wait until 15:55.....I am standing out in the hot sun 32 C for 40 minutes and see my bus ....it was not slowing down so I started waving my hands wildly. The driver stopped and informed me that I should have been at a different stop.....he let me on luckily or I would have had to wait another 2 hours.🥴

    Arrived at my Hostel after walking 2 km from the bus station. It is wonderful.

    It feels like summer here.⛱️👒
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  • Around Ponferrada

    April 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I spent today walking around Ponferrada and taking a few pics. It is such an interesting place with many photo opportunities.

    I dropped by the Hostel that I will be volunteering at and introduced myself. i met Anna who is very experienced and returns each year from Italy to help. No other Hospitalaros have come yet maybe tomorrow.

    I took a picture of 2 elderly gents who were looking for a bench. My competition!!!
    It was very hot and all benches fill very quickly.
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  • San Nicolas Albergue Day 1

    April 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    So, my first day working. We had about 36 pilgrims. This is the perfect job for someone who is interested in statistics for sure!!

    The routine is to open the locked door and gate by 5:30 and be available to help the pilgrims with anything that may come up. They leave by 8 am.

    Next we strip the beds of any paper sheets that were used and empty the garbage.

    We wash down each mattress with disinfectant. There are 2 bunk beds per room with a few larger rooms that have 3.

    We sweep and mop the floors.

    I really enjoy this as I can listen to my music and podcasts etc..

    We then have a break until we open at 1 pm.

    The first shift is 1-4 pm, and the other is 4 pm to 7 pm although Pilgrims will arrive up until we lock the doors at 10:30 pm

    We register each Pilgrim in a book including their Passport or DIN number , name, walking or cycling, where they started their Camino, and where the stayed the night before. We then assign a bed for them and needless to say most want the lower (baja) one and not the top ( arriba).🥴 We do the best we can.

    We do offer a woman's and a men's wing which I think is great😉

    So far so good🤞🙏🍀
    I am working with Jolguin (He reminds me of Opa ( Kurt's Dad)

    Isobel is from Montreal. Gilberto and Jolguin are both from Espana. Gilberto speaks only Spanish . Jolguin is learning English with Duolingo 😉 He also speaks some French and Italian but Spanish is his native language.
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  • Now this has to be one of the cutest pack adornments. 🥰
    Notice the phone camera set upDumplings from scratch. Bon Appetit!!Capturing slicing her bread!!SOME people enjoy wearing scarves and hatsGeneral look of the kitchen area from where we register PilgrimsThis elderly man is from Peking. He did not speak any English. His runners were very worn out.Amazing!!! All the countries walked !!I adore this castle😍Trees in bloom with snow topped mountains in the distanceA delightful meditative space I found on a walkMorning time 5:30 amRace todayBeautiful wild poppiesWe are on the outskirts of Ponferrada.Cool house turret

    Mucho dias - Mucho Peregrinos Day 2-7

    April 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    It is fascinating watching all of the different peregrinos from all over the world mixing together.
    They are bound by a common goal, a desire to follow, " The Path."
    Each has their own purpose which is as diversified as the mixture of cultures.

    We are averaging 50 pilgrims per day now.

    We had a young girl from Korea come and she was filming every moment of her experience not wanting to miss anything.

    I also am amazed at how our kitchen is transformed into a fusion of different cuisines.
    We had an Italian chef prepare a pasta extraordinaire for all the pilgrims including us!!!

    There was also a guy who after walking 6 hours prepared stuffed dumplings from scratch using a box of pizza crust flour!!!

    We had a family from the USA that were walking with their 2 boys ages 12 and 15 years.

    I watched a tall elderly man do an entire Yoga Vipassana this morning. Amazing🤗 No I didnt stare.....🤔😂

    At the end of the day you always wonder who will arrive tomorrow??
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  • Carrots with long tops wrapped in plastic
    Peaceful morningPilgrims have tented on our lawnWe have so many keys the locks are color codedSo many different shapes and sizesKeys, keys keys. To open turn to the right twice or just a little🧐Wax seal stamp in a pilgrims passportPolish woman with 2 of her 5 children

    No room at the Inn?

    April 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    When we started working here, the number of pilgrims we registered started at 28 and then gradually increased over the days to 30- 40. We hit 50 and we were amazed. That number was short lived by our record of 64 pilgrims.

    We far surpassed that number by 102 last night!!! That included a family with 5 children under the age of 12.!! I think our maximum capacity is 140🧐

    The massive numbers of Pilgrims drastically changes the experience of the Camino to one of anxiety and fear. Will I have a bed tonight??

    I no longer have the time to socialize in a meaningful way with each pilgrim. This makes me sad.😥
    Registration is a time of speed and efficiency as best as one can do in very poor lighting.
    That being said, the difficulty in reading of the numbers off of their cards can be extremely difficult. There are no LED lights here at all. I use the flashlight on my phone😉

    The French DIN card has the most numbers and letters and the Italians win for the smallest print of their names on the card.

    Speaking of names, there can be up to 6 given names for the French, Italian and Spanish.

    We had one woman very ill last night and this caused panic amongst the other pilgrims in her room. Will they become ill? The lady was unfortunately unable to speak any English of any other language that we know of She ended up going to the hospital.

    I must speak of keys. There are so many doors and so many keys!!! Even if you have the right key for the right door it may not open.....A lot of the doors are color coded....I am thinking a Canadian🇨🇦 did that 😅
    Sometimes you have to turn the key twice around to the right. some you just nudge a bit to the right and some you have to use BRUTE strength while turning the key for it to open. It is quite an art to learn 🧐

    What will today bring,??
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  • Hola - Adios

    April 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    This whole experience has been filled with greetings and partings.....

    I especially love when Pilgrims find each other after a day or two or even more of separation . The exclamation of pure JOY is so heartwarming....it gets to me every time♥️♥️

    I also feel pangs of brief sadness as I say "Goodbye" to my Pilgrims in the morning.

    I got up at 430 to open the door for a Father and daughter who are doing the Camino on bicycles.
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  • Last day at San Nicolas Albergue

    April 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Today is the last day of doing everything I have done daily for the past 16 days!!!

    My partner (who I called " OPA") announced he was leaving early at 11 am. It is his daughter's birthday.

    The new group of 4 Hospitalaros arrive sometime today. Two are a couple from Italy and the other two unknown🧐 All I know is that Isobel and I are on the early shift 1-4 pm and then I pack 😅

    My bus leaves at 5:15 am to Fatima Portugal tomorrow morning. I will walk 2.5 km at 4:15 to the bus station. I cannot wait!!!!!!!!

    I have included pictures of a couple who have walked with their old dog of 13 years from Treport France They have walked 2000 km this far. They began Jan 1!!!! Unfortunately it is not a great picture of the dog. They have tented the whole way. Simply Amazing😉

    I also have a picture of a delightful elderly Japanese man who knows no English. We helped him extensively with luggage transfer, finding a grocery store , and showing him which way to find the Camino in the morning.💖💖💖

    Other pictures are from my walks around Ponferrada. The park is so beautiful and many do the circuit walk around it ( 1 km,)

    The mountains are beautiful in the distance ....sort of like Calgary and the Rockies😉

    My poles that I bought here and cannot take home were given to a Pilgrim in need this morning🌞🤗 That's brings me so much Joy 💖

    We are averaging 55 pilgrims each day I am so thankful that the numbers have stayed manageable. I know it won't be long before it will be full (140) every single night!!!

    Good Luck to the next group!!
    💪💪💪💪🍀🍀🍀🍀🙏🙏🙏🙏
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  • Bus to Fatima Portugal

    May 1, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    So last night at 7 pm the Italian couple arrived to be Hospitaleros. No sign of the other 2 and I don't know if they ever came as I went to bed early🥱

    I woke up at 3:15. Finished packing and had a small breakfast I left San Nicolas Hostel at 4:15 right on schedule!!! Yippee,!!😅👏🥳

    Surprisingly the bus was packed.
    Slept a bit on the bus. We were 15 minutes late into Srantiago, and I barely caught my connection 😱
    That bus was packed as welll

    I have included pictures of the scenery from the bus and the first glimpse of the Sanctuary from Our Lady Of Fatima🙏
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  • First glimpses of the interior
    The Basilica of Our Lady of the RosaryGigantic cross in the squarePiece of the Berlin WallStatues of 2 of the childrenOverhead on the entrance to the BasilicaStatue above the crypts of Jacinta and Lucia the shepherd girls who saw the Virgin MaryThe tombs of Jacinta and LuciaSculpture over Franciscas crypt. She was the third shepherd lived to be 97Francisco's tombBeautiful stained glassCloser view of SanctuaryHigh on the ceiling above the SanctuaryVery breathtaking. Mass is held in the centre when it is good weatherTaken from the church steps. Chapel of the Apparitions on the right sideChapel of the ApparitionsOur Lady in the Chapel of Apparitions

    Fatima

    May 2, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I had a wonderful supper last night. Portugal has wonderful food.

    I spent a lot of time in the Basilica and walking around. They have beautiful parks close by..

    The actual grounds are massive and set up for enormous gatherings of people for Mass.

    I should summarize the story of Fatima. 3 shepherd girls saw the Virgin Mary a number of times in a field. The younger 2 died at a very young age. They were made Saints. The other one Francisca lived to be 97 and she is in the process of becoming a Saint.

    Chapel of the Apparitions.
    It was in the place of the Chapel that our Lady talked to the little shepherds. Out of the six apparitions of the Virgin Mary, five of them happened in this place – May, June, July, September and October – where, by the Lady's indication, a chapel in her honour was to be constructed

    The Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fatima stands at the place where the three shepherds were playing by "building a small wall" on May 13, 1917, when they saw a sudden lightning and got frightened to the point of gathering the flock to return home for fear it would rain
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