Camino Francés 2022

A 41-day adventure by Laura's Adventures Read more

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Day 26
Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 9:28 AM
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 521 m
Spain Villafranca del Bierzo 42.605, -6.8142°36’18” N 6°48’36” W
Route choices
August 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
In the morning, I started walking when I was ready, Thérèse from France was ready too, and we started together. Jan and Klaus were still packing.
Thérèse went up the first hill quicker than me, and at the top we were offered to stop for a free coffee. We had just have breakfast, I don't drink coffee, and I was ready to walk. But Thérèse stayed. I thought she'd catch up with me a bit later, but never did.
Jan and Klaus caught up when we were entering Villafranca del Bierzo. We walked together very little, until we got to the fork:
The standard route went along the road and river, and was flat and shorter than the alternative.
The alternative went over a mountain, and rejoined the main route at Trabadelos.
The boys were doing the easy route, and I was doing the mountain. They were going all the way to Ruitelán today (25k via the short route). Since I was going the longer and harder way, I was planning to stop earlier.Read more
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Day 26
Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 12:13 PM
⛅ 14 °C
Altitude: 920 m
Spain Pradela 42.656667, -6.86833342°39’24” N 6°52’6” W
The mountain way
August 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
My route was very steep for the first km or so, then eased. It was very quiet and peaceful, with beautiful views. I only met 3 young walkers when they were taking a break, and saw a few people when passing through the only village, Pradela, before rejoining the main route.
My good friend David was lucky to catch me for a video call at the right time, while I was still on this solitary detour, and got a few minutes of live stream.
When I was back on the main route I was feeling strong and called the albergue in Ruitelán to check if they had a bed available, and I reserved. I took my time to get there, it was a 29k day for me.Read more
You'll be crossing into Galicia very soon. And then downhill to Santiago.
8/18/22Reply
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Day 26
Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 7:00 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 660 m
Spain Ruitelán 42.672999, -6.96723742°40’23” N 6°58’2” W
Albergue Pequeño Potala
August 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
J&K were already at the albergue when I arrived, as expected. What I didn't expect was to find Jinjoo there too! When I first met her she was walking 20k max per day, and finding it hard. Now she's doing a lot more. She still leaves early and walks very slow, and she makes it. I was very happy to see her again.
At the albergue there was also a German couple, Carlos & Sibila, and a young French woman, Nelly. It was a small place, and the 7 of us had dinner together.
Unfortunately Nelly couldn't speak English, which was the only language common to everyone else. She was sitting far from me at the table and missed most of the conversation. Once the meal was over she went to bed, while the rest of us kept talking.
I felt sorry for her and wanted to help her feel included, but if I had to translate we would lose the flow, and if I had a side chat with her, I was going to miss out on the group interaction. I let it go.
I was the next one to go to bed, more than an hour later. The others followed soon after.Read more
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Day 27
Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 8:53 AM
⛅ 8 °C
Altitude: 908 m
Spain La Faba 42.685, -7.0142°41’6” N 7°0’36” W
The heatwave is over
August 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
The maximum temperature for today was forecast to be 23°C. Not only the heatwave seems to be truly over, but we have also entered a cooler region. No need to set alarms at stupid hours before dawn anymore.
Today I woke up when I heard the noises of others getting up. Had a good breakfast, and when I was ready to leave I checked the weather: 7°C! I was glad to have a jacket to wear (a few days ago I was asking myself why I packed it at all).
Jinjoo is still starting her walks at 5am regardless, so I didn't see her. The German couple left while I was having breakfast. J&K were ready at about the same time as me, and Nelly was a few minutes behind. I wanted to make up for the night before, so I said to J&K to go, and I would wait and go with Nelly.

The first half of the walk went to O Cebreiro, just after entering Galicia. It was up, up and up, and very steep. We passed by a couple of small villages where we had a chance to take a break and have a drink. The day was cool but bright, and we enjoyed spectacular views.
Nelly heard from someone she met before who was now a day ahead: this person went up to O Cebreiro yesterday in heavy rain, and completely missed the views! We only had light rain yesterday and sunshine today. So lucky!Read more
Travelerhermoso paisaje!!!
8/18/22Reply
TravelerSi, una maravilla! Increíble que ayer no se veía nada por la lluvia, y mirá el día que nos tocó hoy.
8/18/22Reply
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Day 27
Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 11:18 AM
⛅ 11 °C
Altitude: 1,297 m
Spain Igrexa de Santa María A Real do Cebreiro 42.708333, -7.04333342°42’30” N 7°2’36” W
Hello Galicia!
August 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
We got to the top very soon after crossing the border. At O Cebreiro there's a church and a lot of shops for tourists. Nelly wanted to visit the shops but I wasn't interested, so we parted there. We exchanged numbers and I continued the walk.Read more
TravelerIt looks amazing Laura!
8/18/22Reply
TravelerIt really does!
8/18/22Reply
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Day 27
Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 12:39 PM
☀️ 13 °C
Altitude: 1,268 m
Spain Linares 42.698333, -7.08333342°41’54” N 7°4’60” W
Second half of the walk
August 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
Within a few minutes of leaving Nelly I found J&K, and then Theresa .I met them on and off, as we were walking at a different pace, but we were all going to the same albergue in Fonfría.
This part of the walk was undulating, not going up or down too much, but still surprisingly steep at times.Read more
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Day 27
Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 6:24 PM
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 1,267 m
Spain Fonfría 42.731667, -7.1642°43’54” N 7°9’36” W
Albergue A Reboleira
August 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
This albergue is so good! It is very large, not in terms of number of beds, but the different spaces that we can use, indoor and outdoor.
Many known people here: Jan, Klaus, Theresa, Nelly (I succeeded in getting the 2 French girls to meet, yay!), Carlos, Sibila and even Frédérique, the Belgian lady who was walking with her daughter (the daughter now returned home and the mother keeps walking alone). Plus many new Italians and others I never met before.
Jan found a guitar again, but wasn't the only player today.
We had dinner at the round building with the straw roof.Read more
TravelerGood advice Laura, I won’t take Sofia with me…
8/18/22Reply
Traveler🤣🤣🤣
8/19/22Reply
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Day 28
Friday, August 19, 2022 at 8:30 AM
☀️ 11 °C
Altitude: 1,247 m
Spain Fonfría 42.73627, -7.1691342°44’11” N 7°10’9” W
Traffic
August 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
This morning, traffic jam on the track! 🐄🐄🐄🤣
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Day 28
Friday, August 19, 2022 at 8:48 AM
☀️ 12 °C
Altitude: 668 m
Spain Tríacastela 42.755, -7.24333342°45’18” N 7°14’36” W
Towards Triacastela
August 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
More beautiful views while still high, before descending to Triacastela.
The descent was long but not too steep. The day was warmer than yesterday.
I walked at my own slow pace, at times coinciding with Jan and Klaus or Theresa and Nelly.Read more
TravelerI’m amazed at how “uncrowded” your path seems to be. I have been worried that the Camino will become overcrowded before I get a chance to do my Pilgrimage.
8/19/22Reply
TravelerTwo or three weeks ago there were large groups of students doing part of the walk each day, then continuing by bus. I found out where they were staying to avoid those places. The arrival at Burgos also was busy, but less for me and the relatively few people who took the river route. Tomorrow I reach Sarria, and I am bracing for a lot more people from there.
8/19/22Reply
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Day 28
Friday, August 19, 2022 at 11:11 AM
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 668 m
Spain Tríacastela 42.755, -7.24333342°45’18” N 7°14’36” W
Decision point
August 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Leaving Triacastela there was another choice of route, but my mind was already made up.
The other day at Pieros, Jerry, an older Irish man who has done the Camino a few times, spoke very highly of the monastery at Samos, and made me want to see it. The route is 7k longer but I have the time, so it was an easy choice.
Nelly took the other option and later said she regretted it because it was hard (a lot of up and down) and ended up being longer for the day, as she went all the way to Sarria.Read more
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Day 28
Friday, August 19, 2022 at 1:47 PM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 543 m
Spain Samos 42.73, -7.32542°43’48” N 7°19’30” W
The monastery
August 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Theresa is spending the night at the albergue within the monastery grounds. I checked the reviews and they were very poor, so went to a private one across the road. J&K came with me.
Later in the afternoon we did a guided tour of the monastery. Interesting history, there was a fire in 1951 that destroyed a lot of it, so what we see now is the rebuild.
The paintings are from the 1960s.
The monk guide only spoke Spanish and my German friends could get very little. The monk gave a lot of info very fast. At the end, I said to the guys not to worry if they didn't understand, because I understood everything but couldn't remember it anyway 🤣Read more
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Day 28
Friday, August 19, 2022 at 5:20 PM
☀️ 30 °C
Altitude: 542 m
Spain Samos 42.733333, -7.32542°43’60” N 7°19’30” W
Chapel IX century
August 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
This chapel and cypress are over 1,000 years old.
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Day 28
Friday, August 19, 2022 at 6:57 PM
☀️ 29 °C
Altitude: 539 m
Spain Samos 42.731667, -7.32666742°43’54” N 7°19’36” W
Home made dinner
August 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
We did some supermarket shopping and I cooked spaghetti for the 3 of us. Jan cut the fruit for a fruit salad and Klaus did the dishes.
Nice [Fay C]
8/19/22Reply
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Day 29
Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 8:40 AM
☀️ 14 °C
Altitude: 534 m
Spain Samos 42.73, -7.33166742°43’48” N 7°19’54” W
Foggy start
August 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
Today we said goodbye to Klaus, who left early to do a long walk of 30k because he's running out of time.
Jan and I left after breakfast. It was very foggy outside but we knew it was going to get warm and sunny later.
The soles of my feet were sore and I had to slow down my already slow speed. Too slow for Jan, so each of us walked at our own pace. We were heading for the same albergue, Casa Barbadelo, about 20k from Samos.Read more
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Day 29
Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 10:21 AM
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 644 m
Spain Samos 42.74, -7.33166742°44’24” N 7°19’54” W
Beautiful forests
August 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Today's walk went through areas with oak and chestnut trees, and berry bushes.
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Day 29
Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 10:36 AM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 636 m
Spain Samos 42.741667, -7.32833342°44’30” N 7°19’42” W
Desperate for a toilet!
August 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
There were a few small villages between Samos and Sarria (the big town 4k before today's destination), but either they had no facilities at all, or they were closed.
I needed a toilet and was holding it, wishing for another village with an open bar around the next turn... and prepared to settle for a tall grass patch offering some privacy.
When I got to an accessible area with some trees and grasses, it was very hard to take position because of the berry bushes, which were full of thorns, so I desisted and kept walking a bit more.
Then I got to the place in the pictures. It was an albergue and cafe/restaurant, with 'open' signs but no one there. The cafe was clearly closed. The albergue door was unlocked. I stepped in and it was all dark and silent inside. I called 'Hola!' and looked around until I found the toilets. I was saved!
A hand written note inside the toilet door asked for a 50c donation to help with maintenance costs, and I gladly complied with the request.
Walking became much easier after that!Read more
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Day 29
Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 1:30 PM
☀️ 29 °C
Altitude: 471 m
Spain Sarria 42.776667, -7.41666742°46’36” N 7°25’0” W
Sarria
August 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Sarria is another milestone on the walk: it marks the beginning of last 100k to Santiago.
I stopped at the Tourist Info Office with a few questions, then I kept walking to the town centre.
When I got there I met Jan again. He was having a beer with Charly, a young Spaniard I hadn't seen before.
I sat with them for a while, and Jan got another beer.
Charly was staying in Sarria for the night.
Jan and I had another 4k to go, to Barbadelo. He said that after 2 beers it was ok to walk at my pace 🤣Read more
TravelerAlmost there Laura, it went really quick…
8/20/22Reply
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Day 29
Saturday, August 20, 2022 at 2:30 PM
⛅ 29 °C
Altitude: 532 m
Spain Barbadelo 42.77, -7.44542°46’12” N 7°26’42” W
Albergue Casa Barbadelo
August 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
This albergue is very nice and has a good restaurant. The only thing missing is a kitchen that pilgrims can use - I guess it's part of the business, to make us buy from the restaurant, and I don't mind it.
Here we met up with Fréderique from Belgium again, and I was excited to also spot Monika, the German woman who was my first Camino acquaintance back at Orisson! All 4 of us will be at the same albergue again tomorrow 🙂Read more
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Day 30
Sunday, August 21, 2022 at 7:44 AM
⛅ 13 °C
Altitude: 602 m
Spain Belante 42.775, -7.48542°46’30” N 7°29’6” W
Another foggy morning
August 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Monika was my walking buddy for half day, she walks at my pace now.
The morning was nice and cool, a bit up and down, with nice forests on our side.
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Day 30
Sunday, August 21, 2022 at 9:41 AM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 624 m
Spain Francos 42.783333, -7.54166742°46’60” N 7°32’30” W
100k to go!
August 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
The end is near. Walking 100k is the minimum necessary to get a Compostela on arrival at Santiago, and a lot of people start here (or Sarria, the nearest big town).
This means that this last section of the walk is much more crowded, and albergues are getting full. Yesterday we booked the beds for today, and today I booked for tomorrow and the day after.Read more
Looks like you've timed it correctly. Lots of people walk at the weekends so accommodation out in the countryside is difficult. But you'll be in Santiago by then.
8/22/22Reply
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Day 30
Sunday, August 21, 2022 at 9:53 AM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 635 m
Spain Francos 42.783333, -7.54833342°46’60” N 7°32’54” W
Like a painting
August 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
When the fog was lifting and a bit of sun started to show, the view was gorgeous. It was like a painting. The photo doesn't do it justice.
TravelerEsta linda!
8/21/22Reply
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Day 30
Sunday, August 21, 2022 at 12:07 PM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 339 m
Spain Portomarín 42.805, -7.61833342°48’18” N 7°37’6” W
Portomarín
August 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
This was the biggest town we passed today. Most pilgrims stop here for the night, but we are trying to avoid the crowds and went further.
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Day 30
Sunday, August 21, 2022 at 6:19 PM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 538 m
Spain Gonzar 42.825, -7.69333342°49’30” N 7°41’36” W
Albergue Hostería de Gonzar
August 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
This is where Jan, Frédérique, Monika and I are staying today. The albergue is attached to a restaurant and we're meeting there for dinner soon 😏
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Day 31
Monday, August 22, 2022 at 6:00 AM
⛅ 14 °C
Altitude: 442 m
Spain Curbián 42.881667, -7.90833342°52’54” N 7°54’30” W
2
Borrowed light
August 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Today I was doing more than 30k again so I started early. I woke up at 5 and started walking before 6.
It's been a while since the last time I started so early and I forgot to get my head torch out of the backpack. It's such a hassle to take the backpack off and put it on again!
I started to walk under the village lights, on the road, and soon another pilgrim with a torch was walking behind me. We kept the same pace. The light was enough for me to see what I was stepping on. I left enough room for them to pass me if they wanted to, although I was hoping they wouldn't. And they didn't 😅
After a little while I thanked the stranger for lighting my way. It was a young Italian who spoke very little Spanish or English, and I spoke very little Italian. I asked him a few questions but either he was too shy or didn't want to talk, and stayed with me in silence until we found the first cafe open for breakfast, at about 5k.
By the end of breakfast it was dawn and the light no longer needed, so I thanked him again, wished him buen Camino and I went on my way.
There was a lot of fog today, and when it lifted it remained blissfully cloudy for most of the morning.Read more
Traveler That looks like eucalyptus globulus. Australia’s biggest export to Spain.
8/22/22Reply
TravelerYou're the expert!
8/22/22Reply
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Day 31
Monday, August 22, 2022 at 11:45 AM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 442 m
Spain Curbián 42.881667, -7.90833342°52’54” N 7°54’30” W
Mental strategies
August 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
In theory, today's walk was going to be 32k. According to my watch, it's always more, but I go by the guides to mentally prepare.
If I think I have to walk 32k it feels that it will be hard, I will be tired, sore, hungry, hot... So, I break it up:
First, I walk about 5k and then I stop for breakfast. This is easy.
After breakfast, I have the energy to go to the halfway point. In this case, I plan to go non stop to 16k (as measured by my watch).
When I get to 16k I start looking for a suitable place to stop for a rest and morning tea, and this can be up to 3k more, depending where I am.
After this second stop, I plan one more stop between there and the destination. Today I was 14k from Melide (the destination), so I only had to do 2 more 7k walks.Read more
TravelerYesterday I met a young man who was walking by the river ness with his dog. The dog was old and waking slowly. I stopped to
8/22/22Reply
TravelerI think we're missing the end of the story?
8/22/22Reply
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